May 1/10: LCBO Vintages Release -- tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MAY 1, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cave de Beblenheim Heimberger Les Origines Vieilles Vignes Riesling
2008 Alsace: thirty year old vines, good depth to Riesling intensity,
needs food. +168955, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Domaine du Pre Baron Sauvignon Touraine 2009 Loire: very herbaceous
and crisp good dry and zesty finish, food wine. +107128, $14.95, QPR:
90.
3. E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2008: good price for detailed
sunshine, sip or food. +290296, $16.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2008 California: 15% ABV blockbuster,
some of the wine comes from 80 – 100 year old vines in Oakley.
Excellent value. +719211, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Zig Zag Zin Zinfandel 2007 Mendocino: time to light up with this
charmer, 14.5% ABV, good zin intensity right through past the finish.
+39982, $18.95, QPR: 90.
3. Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Maipo: classy and
suave cab, value priced, 14.5% ABV, snap it all up. +18721, $15.95,
QPR: 92.
4. Laurent Mabileu St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil 2008: very pronounced
cabernet franc character, developmentally positive, good finish.
+61192, $15.95, QPR: 90.
5. Domaine Montmartel Visan 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages: long enduring
finish, ready in a year. +130062, $15.95, QPR: 90.
6. Montinho Sao Miguel 2008 Alentejano Portugal: the cab shows through
in this appealing North American-styled wine. +114405, $12.95, QPR: 90.
7. Burgo Viejo Reserva 2001 Rioja: bargain priced value for this 8 year
old Rioja MVC, wood, and depth. +168823, $19.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. La Crema Chardonnay 2007 Monterey, +158683, $29.95 retail.
2. Sigalas Santorini 2008 Greece, +74781, $21.95.
3. Edmeades Zinfandel 2007 Mendocino, +105924, $25.95.
4. Pikes Eastside Shiraz 2006 Clare Valley, +77891, $22.95.
5. Rosemount Traditional Show Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit
Verdot 2005 McLaren Vale, +484097, $34.95.
6. Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Te Kahu 2007 Hawkes Bay,
+163584, $29.95. (Bordeaux blend)
7. Chateau LaRose-Trintaudon 2004 Haut-Medoc, +167437, $26.95.
8. Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, $719120, $36.95.
9. Laurus Gigondas 2006, +163113, $24.95.
10. Marchesi di Barolo Barolo 2005, +168179, $38.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 30/10: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (ViniPortugal)

 The Time and Date: Tuesday March 30, 2010 2PM to 6:30 PM
The Event: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting, sponsored by
ViniPortugal.
The Venue: Art Gallery of Ontario
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue had good detail, and the
overall dimensions were shortened. It was easier to carry.
Unfortunately, while the catalogue had price ranges for the wines, they
were not always correct. Logos, names, addresses, mini-histories of the
wineries: they were also included. 47 tables and scores of wines.
The Quote/Background: The price fault is from previous years too. It is
necessary to have correct ballpark prices, because many wine people are
looking for a bargain, or a decent price for a "great wine". Or, they
want to avoid that pricey wine. Several pourers were vague about
prices. C'est la vie…

 

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Alves de Sousa Abandonado 2007 Douro $75
-Alves de Sousa Caldas Reserva 2005 Douro
-Quinta do Cotto Grande Escolha 2007 Douro, over $30
-Julio Tassara de Bastos Dona Maria Reserva 2005 Alentejano, over $30
-Quinta do Mouro 2005 Estremoz
-Quinta de Ventozelo Branca 2008.
-Herdade dos Grous White Reserve 2008 Alentejano
-Vale d'Algares 2007 Ribatejano (Viognier), over %50

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bacalhoa Tinto da Anfora 2007, +227256, $12.95
-Bacalhoa Tinto da Anfora 2006 Grande Escolha
-Quinta da Bacalhoa Tinto 2007
-Campanhia Das Quintas Forgotten Field 2008 Tinto
-Sogrape Heredade do Peso Vinha do Monte Tinto 2008.
-Campanhia Das Quintas Farizoa Reserve 2006 Tinto
-J.Portugal Ramos Vinhos Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2007
-Adega Cartuxa 2007 Alentejo, over $30
-Adega Cartuxa 2006 Reserva Alentejo, over $30
-Quinta Vale D. Maria Douro Tinto 2007, over $30 – uses 41 indigenous
grape varieties!
-CARM Reserva 2008 Douro
-Quinta do Infantado 2007 Douro, $23.95, +95158
-Caves Transmontanas Quanta Terre Grande Reserve Branca 2008 Douro, $25
-Caves Transmontanas Quanta Terre Grande Reserve Tinto 2008 Douro, over
$30
-Enoport Almagrande 2007 Douro, $19.95
-Vale d'Algares "D" Branca 2008, over $50

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bacalhoa Catarina 2008
-Campanhia Das Quintas Prova Regia 2008 Branca $16.50
-CSL Fernao Pires 2009 Branca Estremadura, $12
-CSL Moscatel (dry) 2009 Branca Estremadura, $12
-Pocas Coros Douro White 2009, $12
-Aveleda Follies Alvarinho 2009
-Vale d'Algares Guarda Rios Branca 2008, $17.95
-Vale d'Algares "D" 2007 Tinto Tejo, over $50

 

The Food: an assortment of platters with poached salmon, cheeses,
breads, hors d'oeuvre, pork loins, salads, etc.
The Downside: there was some confusion about check in procedures, and
catalogues were not available at POS. Also, I could not get to the
fortified wines – my palate was almost dead.
The Upside: a terrific assortment of wines.
The Contact Person: william.delgado@portugalglobal.pt
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 29/10: Portuguese Winemakers' Dinner at Chiado

The Time and Date: Monday March 29, 2010  6:30PM to 11 PM
The Event: Winemakers' Dinner showcasing a wide variety of new
Portuguese wines, matched to the dishes of Chiado Restaurant.
The Venue: Chiado Restaurant
The Target Audience: wine writers and agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wineries here were looking for
agents. Ten producers were making their Ontario market debut.
Principals were in attendance.
The Quote/Background: We began with a tasting in the wine cellar, where
we could talk to the wineries and to the agents. There were about a
dozen wines available.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ETC Colheita Seleccionada 2007 Alentejo

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mateus Muxagat Tinto 2005 Douro - $35
-Paolo Laureano Jaquim Madeira Chardonnay (blend) 2006 Alentejo - $27
-Vale d'Algares Guarda Rios 2008 Tejo
-Soberanas XS 2006 Terras do Sado
-Ferreira Malaquias Vinha Dourada 2005 Douro
-Douro Family Estates Signature 2007 Douro

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Afros Loureiro 2008 Vinhos Verdes
-Herdade do Sobroso Colheita Tinto 2006 Alentejo
-Apegadas Reserva 2002 Douro
-Quinta da Cassa 2007 Douro

 

The Food: we began with Loridos Blanc de Blanc (Filipa Costa). This
great tasting sparkler joined an appetizer selection of gravlax salmon
on points, codfish cakes, rissoles of shrimp, empadas of salted pork,
and other goodies. After that, we began the wine cellar tasting. At
dinner, we could have any of the wines previously tasted. Writers and
agents and principals were strewn about, so we all had a chance at
various conversations. Wines were mixed. Someone would get up and fetch
a bottle, and then pour for us. There were five courses, slightly
larger than tapas or apps size, followed by a mixed dessert platter and
coffees (which I skipped since it was late). Here's the menu – fresh
cheese, tartar of tuna and a grouper carpaccio, pan-seared sea
scallops, grilled sardine, grilled tiger shrimp, pan-roasted salted
cod, tile fish, roasted rack of lamb, organic Ontario pheasant, and a
wild mushroom risotto.
The Downside: quite a lot of food, even if small portions.
The Upside: a chance to taste wines and foods together without
speeches.
The Contact Person:  william.delgado@portugalglobal.pt
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 26/10: Dinner at Pallucci, featuring guest speaker Alessandro Dialuce and Amethyst Wines

The Time and Date: Friday March 26, 2010  6PM to midnight
The Event: Dinner at Pallucci, featuring guest speaker Alessandro
Dialuce (Dialuce Exquisite Imports) and some of his wines via Amethyst
Wine Agency (www.amethystwine.ca).
The Venue: Pallucci (Mt. Pleasant and Davisville)
The Target Audience: consumers who like Italian foods and wines.
The Availability/Catalogue: Laura Higgins (Amethyst) worked with Chef
Neil Siomra to create a "family-style" affordable dinner, paired with
her wines matching. The two dozen people all ate at one long table.
The Quote/Background: "We did put a lot of thought and planning into
the dinner but there was a gap between our planning and everyone's
execution. Thus, why we limited the dinner to about 20 of our friends
before opening it up to a wider audience. I do hope that everyone
walked away with a positive impression and at least a glimpse of the
potential of this style of bringing together culture, food, wine and
friendship. The last thing that I want in a night out is that it is a
boring purely analytical night of pairing the elements of the wine and
food." –Laura Higgins interview.
The Wines: There were five wines available for sampling…

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Gracciano Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2006 Tuscany, $37

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sannino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco 2008 Campania, $19
-Sannino Coda di Volpe Pompeiano Bianco IGT 2008 Campania, $17
-Marenco Aldo Pirun Dolcetto di Dogliani 2008 Piedmont, $17.95 Vintages
+161729 -- organic
-Gracciano Rosso di Montepulciano 2007 Tuscany, $23

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rigoloccio Maremma Cabernet and Alicante 2006 IGT Tuscany, $30

 

The Food: we began with platters of portobellos in a creamy gorzonzola
sauce (Pompeiano; the Lacryma was an aperitif), followed by a sitdown
bowl of off-sweet tomato soup with fennel. Next came a wonderful
grilled calamari with a wild mushroom assortment and the Dolcetto, a
nice touch. There were three special pizzas, including a white (bianco)
and a mortadella. The main pasta of rigatoni, tomato, and mild sausage
came with the Rigoloccio, while another pasta of linguini, rapini, and
shrimp appeared (to be finished off with the two white wines). The meat
was a veal Milanese, sliced carrots and sauce, with the two
Montepulcianos. These were all good matches in the family-style way.
Dessert was, of course, house-made tiramisu. Espressos and cafes
completed the evening.
The Downside: the one table was too long, I could only talk to my
immediate neighbours. Given the nature of the family dining and the
communal table (plus the wine and food plated service), we could have
played musical chairs and moved around. Laura and Alessandro did
exchange table heads.
The Upside: there were short talks about Italian olive oil and pastas,
and sauces, and other food items. Laura also gave us a basket of garlic
that her mother had woven for each of us.
The Contact Person: laura.higgins@sympatico.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 26/10: Tasting of biodynamic wines from the portfolio of The Living Vine

The Time and Date: Friday March 26, 2010  4PM to 5PM
The Event: a tasting of biodynamic wines from the portfolio of The
Living Vine (Loire, Rhone, Napa, South Africa).
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina
The Target Audience: wine media and private clients, FWR patrons.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available in consignment,
most are six pack offerings (except the SA wine and the cider).
The Quote/Background: the highlight of the tasting was discovering the
first-rate Domaine Coeur de Lion Calvados Christian Drouin Cidre du
Pays d'Auge NV, a biodynamic cider from Normandy in 750 mL bottles, 3%
ABV, and retailing for $11.95 a bottle. It was so good, I ordered two
cases for my own personal use.
The Wines: the cider would rate 4 stars (over 91 points).

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Nicolas Joly Saveneires Clos de la Bergerie 2007 Loire, $59.95
-Sequillo Cellars Sequillo White 2008 Swartland South Africa, $28.95
(65% chenin blanc plus grenache blanc, viognier, and roussanne).

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Nicolas Joly Les Vieux Clos Chenin Blanc 2007 Loire, $43.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulee de Serrant 2007 Loire, $105.95
-Domaine de la Villeuve Chateauneuf du Pape 2006, $55.95
-Robert Sinskey Three Amigos Pinot Noir 2006 Napa, $54.95

 

The Food: upscale cheeses and artisanal bread.
The Downside: I got only 24 hours notice of this event, so I had to
make some shuffling around.
The Upside: good find with the cider.
The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

New wine products tasted April 2010

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH

 

1. Passion Malbec (Valentin Bianchi) 2008 Argentina, +163188, $8.95:
Typical Modal Varietal Character, with plumy tones, vanilla and other
wood organoleptics. Party wine or sip or first course as an entry wine.
Twist top, 14% ABV.

 

2. Mike Weir Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, +26 Vintages Essential, $15.95:
expect a combo of cool climate fruit (apple, pear) with some creamy and
vanilla tropicality from resolved grape sugar and wood aging. Limes on
the nose. Six months in French oak, 13% ABV. Don't overchill, best with
food.

 

3. Closson Chase has been making wines since before 2001. Although
making wine in Prince Edward County, they use both PEC and Niagara
fruit. Their impressive Chardonnay is derived from their own Aberdeen
vineyard and the Steve Kocsis vineyard – both in Niagara.
So – Closson Chase Chardonnay 2001 (mature, 13.8% ABV, not available
anymore; three stars), 2004 (definitely Burgundian in style, $75; three
and a half stars), 2005 (nutty tropicality, now drinking well, $48;
four stars), 2006 (over-the-top caramel-orange, $42; four stars), and
two treats from the storied 2007 vintage – one from the Aberdeen
Vineyard ($44.95, three and a half stars), and one from the S. Kocsis
Vineyard ($44.95, four stars because of its longer finish). These
Beamsville Chardonnay vines are now twenty years old.

 

4. Featherstone Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Niagara, +89011, Fall 2010
Vintages release (summer at the winery), $16.95: exceedingly refreshing
at this early stage, green apples and lemon zest, great with summer
first courses, but a bit nervy right now for just sipping. Some
botrytis tones (5% of crop). Hand picked, partial barrel fermentation.
250 cases, 12.5% ABV. Twist top.

 

5. Featherstone Estate Black Sheep Riesling 2009 Niagara, +80234, April
3 Vintages, $16.95: named after the sheep that eat grape leaves,
exposing the grapes to more sun. 13-yar old vines, ripe notes with 26.5
g/L natural residual sugar. Good Riesling grip. 750 cases, 10% ABV,
twist top.

 

6. Featherstone Estate Rose 2009 Niagara, +117861, May 15, 2010
Vintages, $14.95: blend of 52% cabernet franc, 39% gamay, and 9%
merlot. With some botrytis notes, this is a rocking rose, great with
veggies or fish. Light red fruit tones, residual sugar 15 g/L. 500
cases, 12.5% ABV, twist top.

 

7. Featherstone Estate Cabernet Franc 2008 Twenty Mile Bench Vineland,
Vintages April 17, 2010, $16.95: Hand picked and hand sorted, brimming
with red fruit and herbs, some coconut tones from the US oak. Great
with Mediterranean foods or anything herby. 681 cases, 12.5% ABV, twist
top.

 

8. Featherstone Estate Red Tail Merlot Twenty Mile Bench Vineland,
Vintages August 7, 2010, +131540, $19.95: Owner Louise Engel is a
falconer, and uses falconry to control nuisance grape-eating birds. Red
Tail is a hawk commonly seen over the Niagara area. Expect red fruit on
the front palate, black fruit on the mid-palate, and softness on the
finish. Merlot character dominates, of course, and this is a good
Ontario example. 570 cases, 12.5% ABV, twist top.

 

9. Tyrone Estate DeVine Shiraz 2007 Riverland South Australia, $20 from
mark@thelivingvine.ca. Organic grapes and "biodynamic principles" are
used, twist top, 14% ABV, but "produced with egg products" so it is
non-vegan. On the nose, expect spice, anise, some underbrush, and ripe
fruit tones. The taste has leathery syrah with a shiraz hit of
plumminess, toasty US oak influences (think coconut). Finish is long
and lingering. This is a rich wine with mounds of flavour, makes me
long for cheeses as a food partner.

 

10. Two Hands "The Lucky Country" Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale and Barossa,
$15.25 LCBO +145276: a charmer on the General List, with berries and
smoke, some mint, plumy, some anise, longer finish. 14 months in French
and US oaks. 14.9% ABV, twist top.

 

11. Vina Teillery Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Merlot 2006 Reserve Maipo,
$14.95 from mark@thelivingvine.ca. Made from organic grapes in Chile,
13.9% ABV, unfiltered, one year in French oak (lends it some elegance).
A real mix of red and black fruits from the CSSM blend, hard to pin
down a varietal character at this price point, but there are pronounced
spices, toast and vanilla components as per usual.

 

12. Tres Sabores Porque No? Napa Valley Rutherford, $29.95 from
mark@thelivingvine.ca. Made with organic grapes. This is a combo of 75%
zinfandel (110-year old vines), 12% cabernet sauvignon, balance of
petit verdot and petite sirah. Each grape contributes something,
although the zin dominates, with cabernet showing up on the mid-palate.
Black fruit tones, come complexity from the older US barrels. I liked
an earlier vintage at the Napa show in Toronto last fall. 14.5% ABV,
hand harvested, both US and French oaks used, 1200 cases made.

 

13. Az. Agr. Durante Le Spinee Cabernet Piave DOC 2008 Veneto, $10 US
dollars, probably more here (mark@thelivingvine.ca). This is mostly
cabernet franc with some sauvignon, as is usually the case with Piave
DOC. Organic grapes are used, very Italianate in complexity, slight
sourness in fruit-finish. Vegetative herbiness is useful for roasts and
grilled meats. Red fruits dominate palate. The tannic finish needs some
time, but the wine is useful (and youthful) at this price. 12.5% ABV.

 

14. Az. Agr. Di Tuccio Raffaele Antica Enotria Falu Rosso IGT 2007
Puglia, $15 in US money, probably more here (mark@thelivingvine.ca).
This is 100% organic Montepulciano grapes, from 15-year old vines with
mature ripe fruit. It is also unoaked, which may please some people.
Micro-oxygenation has been employed to help push the wine along without
the oak. 1250 cases.

 

15. Xabregas Shiraz 2008 Mt. Barker Western Australia, about $25, from
Amethyst Wine Agency. Uses the "metodo ganimede", which emphasizes
dynamic skin contact and post-fermentation maceration, plus some micro-
oxygenation. Extremely rich and plumy wine, but dry. Best with food,
needs another year, 15% ABV. The wine has character. Twist top.

 

16. Warner Glen Estate Frog Belly Shiraz Cabernet 2009 Margaret River,
about $25, From Amethyst Wine Agency. 80% shiraz, 20 % cabernet
sauvignon, from Western Australia. 14% ABV. Great black fruit nose,
long length, some tannins, best after a year or more. Definitely a food
wine, finishes dry.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

April 17, 2010: LCBO Vintages Release Tasting Notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 17, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2008 Napa: restaurant wine, but still
complex, consistent, good value. +136382, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Santa Julia Organica Chardonnay 2009 Mendoza: organic wine but
fantastic price for delivering quality MVC chardonnay tones. +141408,
$12.95, QPR: 91.
3. Caliterra Tributo Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 Casablanca: strong
aromas of coconut and vanilla from the US oak, but very approachable,
lovely wine. +144709, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Penmara Reserve Chardonnay 2008 Orange New South Wales: good dense
flavours, complex arrangement of fruit and oak. +912790, $17.95, QPR:
89.
5. Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough: juicy apples (spy?) or
malic acid plus the herby quality of a sauvignon blanc. Long finish.
+686675, $14.95, QOR: 89.
6. Martin Steimer Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: affordable MVC for the
grape, will not disappoint. +709790, $16.95, QPR: 89.
7. Max. Ferd. Richter Riesling Kabinett 2007 Mosel: intense riesling
character, very Germanic, MVC is good for the price. +160556, $15.95,
QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendocino: cool climate
style, useful organic wine, twist top. +161240, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Colchagua: good
aging, complex and better with food. +46268, $16.95, QPR: 89.
3. Tatu Primitivo del Tarantino 2006 Puglia: thicker, juicier, and
cheaper than zinfandel at this price, 14% ABV. +160390, $14.95, QPR:
90.
4. Farina Le Pezze Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006: great
concentration and depth, length, and needs food. +134684, $14.95, QPR:
90.
5. Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Veneto: Heavier than other years,
13.5% ABV, good dose of blueberries. +987701, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Franciscan Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +496125, $24.95 retail.
2. Josef Chromy Pinot Gris 2008 Tasmania, +162974, $22.95.
3. Hahn Estates Meritage 2007 Central Coast California, +161265,
$24.95.
4. Josef Chromy Pinot Noir 2008 Tasmania, +163022, $26.95.
5. Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz Barossa, +32227, $23.95.
6. Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007, +933317, $27.95.
7. Masi Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron Amarone Della Valpolicella
Classico 2004, +462812, $69.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

March 24/10 Event: "Ontario Chardonnay: seriously cool", trade show.

The Time and Date: Wednesday, March 24, 2010   4:30 PM to 6 PM
The Event: "Ontario Chardonnay: seriously cool", trade show.
The Venue: Toronto Lawn Tennis Club
The Target Audience: wine trade, wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, although library
wines can be in short supply.
The Quote/Background: Bill Redelmeier of Southbrook Winery has
organized a tasting of Ontario chardonnay wines at Canada House in
London, UK, May 17. He had a tasting panel to choose wines through a
blind process. Once that selection had been made, he offered these
wines to the Ontario Wine Society for a special tasting (not blind).
They were arranged by longitude, from east to west.
The Wines: These rankings reflect my own personal tastes. I did not taste any Musque, sparkling wine, nor Icewine. 34 currently
available wines are going to London, plus some library wines.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Malivoire Moira Chardonnay 2005 Beamsville, $36.95
-Tawse Winery Quarry Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Beamsville, $35
-Closson Chase S. Kocsis Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Unfiltered
Beamsville, $44.95
-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay Organic 2008 Niagara, $21.95
-Coyote's Run Estate Winery Black Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, $22
-Malivoire Moira Chardonnay 2004 Beamsville, $64.95 library wine
-Cave Spring Cellars Chardonnay CSV Estate Bottled 2003 Beamsville, N/A
-Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay 1998 Niagara, $154 magnum library wine
-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2007 Beamsville, $35
-Lailey Vineyard Winery Old Vines Chardonnay 2008, Niagara, $40
-Chateau des Charmes Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007, Niagara, $13.95
-Le Clos Jordanne Talon Ridge Chardonnay 2007 Niagara
-Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay Reserve 2008 Niagara.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Norman Hardie Chardonnay Unfiltered 2008 Beamsville, $35
-Hidden Bench Tete de Cuvee Chardonnay 2006 Beamsville, $45
-Malivoire Chardonnay Mottiar Vineyard 2007 Beamsville, $39.95.
-Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay 2005 Niagara, $56
-Rosehall Run Chardonnay Rosehall Vineyard 2007 PEC, $29.95
-Tawse Winery Quarry Road Chardonnay 2007 Beamsville, $35
-Lailey Vineyard Winery Brickyard Chardonnay 2008, Niagara, $30
-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2008 Beamsville, $35
-Hillebrand Winery Showcase Chardonnay Wild Ferment 2008 Niagara, $35
-Huff South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 PEC, $29.95
-Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, $24
-Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery Chardonnay Reserve 2008 Niagara, $38
-Le Clos Jordanne LCJ Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Niagara
-Cave Spring Cellars CS Vineyard Chardonnay 2005 Niagara

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve 2007 Niagara, $24.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Estate Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007 Niagara
Escarpment, $19.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Estate Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2007
Niagara
-Peller Estates Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie 2008 Niagara, $30
-Peller Estates Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie 2007 Niagara, $30
-Flat Rock Cellars The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, $24.95
-Rosehall Run Vineyards Chardonnay Cuvee County 2008 PEC, $21.95
-Southbrook Triomphe Certified Organic Chardonnay 2008 Niagara

 

The Food: quality bread, water.
The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 23/10 California Wine Fair Media Preview Tasting

The Time and Date:  Tuesday, March 23, 2010 5Pm to 8:30PM
The Event: California Wine Fair Media Preview Tasting
The Venue: Far Niente Restaurant
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines will be at the April 19th
California Wine Fair – most will be in the Ontario market by the end of
summer.
The Quote/Background: My favourite form of tasting is a sit-down with
no talking – just an examination of several different wines in the
glass. There were several different flights: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,
Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon (twice as many cabs as any other wine
flight). There were nine other miscellaneous wines, such as Merlot and
Syrah. We tasted all the flights of wines blind, with knowledge of only
the grape variety. There were 53 wines, out of an anticipated 420 at
the show.
The Wines:  

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sanford St. Rita Hills Pinot Noir Santa Barbara 2007, $43.95 Vintages
08/10
-Michael David Winery 7 Deadly Zins Lodi 2007, $24.95 Vintages 08/10
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars FAY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $134
Profile Wine Group PO
-Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005, $89.95 Vintages
-Bennett Lane Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $136
Consignment from Kruger Wines and Spirits

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rodney Strong Chardonnay Sonoma 2007, $18.95 (2008 at Vintages or
Consignment)
-Chappellet Chardonnay 2008, $42.95 Vintages 08/10
-Cuvaison Chardonnay Napa 2008, $26.95 Vintages
-Miner Chardonnay Napa 2008, N/A
-Testarossa Vineyards Pinot Noir Palazzio Central Coast 2008, $34.95
Vintages
-Pedroncelli Pinot Noir Russian River 2008, N/A
-Clos La Chance Wines Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, N/A
-Stags Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $49.95 Vintages
-Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2008, $17.95 Vintages
-Titus Vineyards Zinfandel Napa 2007, $34.50 Consignment from 25 Brix
-Seghesio Family Vineyards Zinfandel Sonoma 2008, $29.95 Vintages
-Signorello Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005, $71.95 Consignment
from Profile
-Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $69 Prevedello and Mathews PO
-Duckhorn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $66.95 Consignment
from Rogers
-Francis Ford Coppola Winery CASK Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2006,
$95, Vintages 10/10
-Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard Napa 2004, $70 Consignment
from Lifford.
-Stolpman Vineyards Estate Syrah Santa Ynez 2007, $32.75 Consignment
from 25 Brix

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay Livermore 2008, $16.95 LCBO
-Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek 2006, $22.95 Vintages
-Rutherford Wine Co Lander Jenkins Spirit Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon 2007,
$19.75
-Lucas & Lewellen Cabernet Franc Santa Barbara 2006, $26 Schiralli PO
-Ironstone Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel Lodi 2007, $17.95 Vintages
05/10
-Truchard Vineyards Zinfandel Napa 2007, $21.95 Vintages 05/10
-Gloria Ferrer Winery Pinot Noir Carneros 2006, $27.75 Vintages

 

The Food: as always, anticipated and good: upscale gourmet sandwiches,
skewered meats, shrimp, hot hors d'oeuvre, and the like.
The Downside: it was in the evening, which is a bad time for me, but
c'est la vie!
The Upside: my fave kind of tasting.
The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

A FEW MORE COOKBOOKS IN REVIEW....

3. THE MODERN CAFÉ (John Wiley, 2010, 550 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-37134-3, $65 US hard covers) is by Francisco J. Migoya of the Culinary Institute of America. He's a former executive pastry chef at The French Laundry, and Bouchon Bistro/Bakery; he currently runs the CIA's own café (since 2005). As the publisher states, this book is a guide for both novices and experienced chefs. It's a textbook for anyone thinking of opening a café or upgrading a current one. Today's café culture offers quick meals to those on the run: breakfast baked goods, artisan breads, desserts, cakes, savoury items such as sandwiches and quiches, quick meals, chocolates and candies, beverages, packaged items, and frozen desserts. In many respects, it is the modern version of the diner – without the hot plate special. The text covers management principles, pricing formulas, displays and packaging, as well as recipes. The book is divided into themes: the bakery, the pastry shop, the savory kitchen, beverages, and the retail shelf. He also has a glossary and a bibliography, as well as a list of US supply sources.

Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. And all ingredients are scaled. Quantities are on the high side, such as 40 pieces of craquelin or three chocolate cakes, so the home cook needs to adjust.

Audience and level of use: professional schools, cafes, serious hone cooks.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the bakery is a low-cost/high-profit centre. Migoya covers the seven key ingredients and provides master recipes for brioche, croissants, Danish, pound cake, muffins, scones, biscuits and breads.

The downside to this book: very heavy book at just over five pounds.

The upside to this book: it fulfills a definite need, good layout and photography (especially for techniques).

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

4. THE 200 SUPERFOODS THAT WILL SAVE YOUR LIFE (McGraw-Hill, 2010, 363 pages, ISBN 978-0-07-162575-3, $19.95US soft covers) is by Deborah A. Klein, M.S., RD, a top dietician/nutritionist in Los Angeles for the past 15 years. This is at least the third or fourth such book in a year; I am not sure I can stand many more of them. To tell you the truth, I don't think I even KNOW 200 foods, let alone 200 superfoods. There is a brief description of each food, followed by "benefits", nutritional information, techniques in cooking, and a recipe. There are no red meats, just turkey, chicken, and various fishes. The arrangement is by food type: fruits, vegetables, grains, dairy plus soy, proteins, fats, sweeteners, and herbs. Material at the back includes staples for the pantry, a couple of dozen menu ideas (with calorie counts), snack ideas, and a grocery shopping list. The last section lists 20 different "actions that will save your life." For the guys, she introduces anti-inflammatory fats and proteins to reduce the risk of heart disease. For the gals, she talks about how to combine phytochemicals and nutrients to look younger longer.

Audience and level of use: for the health conscious.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: none of the foods here is esoteric, and the recipes are not unusual (e.g., millet bowl, chicken in red wine, nectarine muffins, baked halibut, watercress fusilli, ratatouille, acorn squash bisque)

The downside to this book: has to compete with similar books on this topic of superfoods.

The upside to this book: she stresses the combination of foods to balance macronutrients for maximum health and energy.

Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

5. ARTISAN BREADS AT HOME WITH THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (John Wiley, 2010, 434 pages, ISBN 978-0-47018260-4, $34.95US hard covers) is by Eric W. Kastel, associate professor of baking at the CIA. This book continues the "At Home" series from the CIA, a series of cookbooks reflecting the current curriculum at the CIA but with more user friendly recipes meant for home cooks. As Kastel said, you don't need a brick oven nor keep a sourdough starter on hand. The emphasis is on loaves, rolls and flatbreads. As is typical in a CIA production, there is great detail on techniques and flours, followed by the twelve steps of bread baking, with detailed descriptions. After the basic breads, Kastel encourages the home cook to move onto more advanced baking. Typical beginner productions are Kaiser rolls, rye bread, and whole wheat bread. Flatbreads embrace pita and tortillas as well as breadsticks. Advanced breads involve starters like a sponge, biga, poolish, and sourdoughs. Ingredients are listed with ounces, grams, volume, and bakers percentages. Yields are generally two loaves or nine (and more) rolls. This basic book should also serve as a refresher to the more serious home baker. The appendix has some dips and sauces recipes, some illustrated material on braiding and knotting, and a listing of other books and resources (ingredients and equipment).

Audience and level of use: home bakers (both new and experienced).

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: multigrain English muffins, lavash, durum and rosemary-lemon rolls, lima bean spread, almond and currant sourdough, ciabatta, fig and hazelnut bread, cheese breads, hot cross buns, cream cheese-apple-walnut coffee cake)

The downside to this book: because of the photographs, the paper is thick and the book is consequently heavier than normal.

The upside to this book: scaling, which he uses, is always better than volume.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 5/10 Tasting: APVSA French Wines not in Ontario Market

The Time and Date: Friday, March 5, 2010   10 AM to 6 PM

The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et

spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep

the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there are often sales staff

available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also

visits New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary and Montreal

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be

acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we

already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price

advantages, either. These 60 or so wines could be made available

through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, many have been picked up

for sale in Ontario. Here were my faves, regardless of price (all

prices are ex-cellar Euros):

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau Magence Graves 2000, 7.5 E

-Chateau Barateau Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois 2006, 6 E

-Maison Humbrecht Gewurztraminer 2007, 8.80 E

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau Ferrand St. Emilion Grand Cru 2007, 9 E

-Chateau Cabredon Bordeaux 2008, 3.50 E

-SARL Danielle de l'Ansee Dom. Gibault Platine 2009 Touraine, 3.04 E

-SARL Danielle de l'Ansee Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Touraine, 2.88 E

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Maison Paul Reitz Bourgogne Chardonnay 2004, 4.40 E

-Chateau Brannens Graves 2005, 5.5 E

-Chateau Font-Vidal 2005 Bordeaux, 3.18 E

-Chateau Font-Vidal 2007 Bordeaux, 2.35 E

-Maison Humbrecht Riesling Prestige 2008, 7.30 E -- organic

-Chateau Cabredon Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux 2007, 3.90 E

-Chateau Cabredon Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux Tradition 2004, 6 E

-Chateau Cabredon Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux Tradition 2003, 6.30 E

 

The Food: none.

The Downside: selection is eclectic and bottles arrive haphazardly.

Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told this until we

got there.

The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.

There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com