SOME NEW BEVERAGES TASTED THIS MONTH –

1.Miguel Torres Santa Digna Syrah Reserva 2013 Central Valley, +480905, $14.95 Vintages: 80% of this wine was aged in French oak for 9 months, and then bottled at 14% ABV. This is a Fair Trade wine (Fair for Life) in which all the workers get a decent wage. The vines grow in Linares in poorly-drained soil with low-yields. This gives it a very syrah-like character of vibrant black fruits and violets. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

2.Quinta de Curvos Loureiro Vinho Verde 2015, +471284, $12.95 Vintages: 12% ABV, with lightly floral tones on the nose and on the palate, ending with aromatic softness. Loureiro is one of the vinho verde varieties used in blending. Best sipped or with appetizers. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

3.Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir Les Aspres Syrah Mourvedre Grenache 2013 Cotes du Roussillon, +413245, $18.95 Vintages Feb 18: 14% ABV, GSM style all the way. One third of the wine is matured in barrels for 9 months and then blended with vatted wines. Jammy, upfront black fruit coupled with both mocha and subtle spice cake tones. Sip or with food. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

4.Gerard Bertrand Cote des Roses Rose 2015 Languedoc, +37895, $18.95 Vintages: out just in time for Valentine and then continuing through Easter. 12.5% ABV, but fresh and fruity with an excellent pale rose colour. The bottle has a bottom shaped like a rose in bloom (to view it, turn the bottle onto its side). It is a blend of grenache, cinsault and syrah, emphasizing both red and black currants with some candy floss on the finish. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

5.Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2012, $20.95 (500 mL), +980805 Vintages: Hungarian nectar, full of apricot, dried peach and orange peel. 13% ABV. Try with blue cheese as an ending to the meal. No price increase over the 2010, last here at Vintages in 2015. There will not be many of these left as new Euro rules raise minimum sugar levels and increase the puttonyos to 5 or 6, eliminating all the 3 and 4 levels. Prices will rise too, through $50 a bottle. Quality/price rating 91 points by Dean Tudor.

 

 

 

6.Henry of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2012 VQA Short Hills Bench Niagara, +268391 Vintages Feb 18, $24.95: Here is a deft Burgundian character pinot noir wine, with cherry-berry tones, some toast, mildly opulent style, not totally cool climate at all. Fermented in stainless and aged in "European" oak (30% new). Ready now, very food friendly. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

7.Henry of Pelham Baco Noir 2014 Speck Family Reserve VQA Ontario, +461699, $24.95 Vintages Feb 18: Low yielding grapes come from Short Hills Bench area which was planted in 1984. As with their previous baco noirs, HOP has maintained both the rich jammy black currant spicy character and the low price – at under $25. Aged in premium American Oak for more than 18 months, it's still young, needing another two years or so for proper aging, but with multiple decanting it can be enjoyed now. 13.5% ABV. One of the top bacos at the LCBO. Works best with pronounced meats such as pork, lamb, farmed or wild game – all either braised or grilled. And spicy foods. Speck Family Reserves are the top tier by HOP. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

8.THE KRAKEN BLACK SPICED RUM, 750 mL +225698, $30.95, 47% ABV: I rarely review spirits beyond brandies, but this one caught my eye, and it is a delicious drink on its own "neat" (as I usually have my Cognacs and Malts). It's a base of dark rum from Trinidad and Tobago, aged one to two years, and with 11 added spices (cinnamon, ginger, and clove dominate). The taste is rather on the nutty side, with tones of vanilla and mocha

and the spices, with a long peppery finish. There is no doubt it has strong flavours but it is mild on the attack. Physically, the black liquid rum comes in an attractive bottle with hoop handles and an interesting label that celebrates the giant sea squid nicknamed "The Kraken" (legend has it that a dark rum shipment from the Caribbean was once lost to the beast in the ocean). I grew up with the Jabberwocky, so I can identify with such myths. The rum was actually put together in Indiana (says the label), and it is now a Hot Brand in the USA. You could try a Black Mojito or a Perfect Storm (The Kraken plus ginger beer and lime wedge), but do try it as a sippin' neat drink. Also available in different formats at the LCBO: +389304, 50 mL $4.95; +366534, 375 mL $17.95; +318683, 1140 mL $42.95; +454710, $1750 mL $62.95; and as a Limited Edition ceramic bottle suitable for gifting (+427286, 750 mL $44.95). Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

9.Henry of Pelham Baco Noir 2015 Speck Family Reserve VQA Ontario, +461699, $24.95 at winery now: Low yielding grapes come from Short Hills Bench area which was planted in 1984. As with their previous baco noirs, HOP has maintained both the rich jammy black currant spicy character and the low price – under $25. Aged in premium American Oak for more than 18 months. It's still young, needing another two years or so for proper aging, but with multiple decanting it can be enjoyed now. 13.5% ABV. Works best with pronounced meats such as pork, lamb, farmed or wild game – all either braised or grilled. And spicy foods. Speck Family Reserves are the top tier by HOP. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

10.Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2015 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $14.95, +81653 LCBO: A consistent wine, year in and year out, my fave Ontario chardonnay at this price level. The labels have more info, stressing a lighter body and more fruity finish for 2015 (orchard fruit) with some buttery nuanced complexity from the barrel fermentation, and with a longer finish. Aged in oak for 9 months. The palate is richer than previous vintages, with more alcohol, buy it up. Cork closure, keep it around for awhile. 14.3% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures. [currently on sale at LCBO for $1 off until Feb 26]

 

 

11.Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc 2015 VQA NOTL, +162602 LCBO, $14.95: it has been two years since I tasted the entry level 2013 Cab Franc from Chateau des Charmes (I usually have access to their St David's Bench Vineyard Franc wines, costing twice as much), and they have a continual winner. It has some over-the-top full-bodied black spicy fruit while still retaining some cranberries and bell peppers, slightly augmented with some pine tones. Aged for 9 months in French oak with some toast. Sip or with first course food. Cork closure, keep it around for awhile. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

22.THE ULTIMATE STUDENT COOKBOOK FROM CHICKEN TO CHILI (Firefly, 2010, 2016, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-602-4, $14.95 CAD paperbound) is by Tiffany Goodall, a personality-celebrity chef in the UK (where the book was first published by Quadrille in 2009). This is a nifty book about basics and budget. The author had lived away from home on a limited budget while she was a culinary arts student, so she shows college students how to get by with fresh and healthy food every day. Of course, she had a leg up since she was actually studying cooking. There are 100 preps here, requiring only 20 kitchen items, fewer than 20 on-hand staples, plus regularly available ingredients from the grocery store. There's some health information, hygiene, storage, and use of leftovers.

Substitutions and adaptations are also included. What I really like about the book are the step-by-step photos with captions and balloons that show the prep and presentation of each dish. But on the other hand, some recipes need re-figuring: the saltiness of soy sauce will NOT disappear with evaporation, and baking 2 inch potatoes for 1.5 to 2 hours at 400 degrees will get you blackened (not crisp) potatoes. So: what do students like?How about mac and cheese, pizza, roast chicken, fajitas, stir fries, sandwiches? Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/Price rating: 87.

 

 

 

 

23.COCKTAILS MADE EASY (Firefly Books, 2010, 2016, 192 pages, ISBN  978-1-77085-775-9, $19.95 CAD paperbound) is by Simon Difford, an award-winning spirits writer in the UK. It was last out in 2010. It is exceedingly useful for its 500 recipes, with new ones since the last edition. Many recipes have been modified one way or another: different brands are used, different proportions adapt to modern times, recipes are simpler. There are four basic ways to mix a cocktail: stir, shake, blend, and build, and there is an order in which to mix the ingredients. His preps show those things, along with appropriate garnishes, a correct glass, and information on origins. He has a listing of 14 key alcoholic ingredients for 450 cocktails and essential staples. Most of the

book is, of course, an A – Z dictionary style arrangement of the cocktails, using the best known name of the drink. There is no real ingredient index, but there are highlights to some suppliers used as ingredients. He has no overall print index to, say, rye or rum. You can always search cocktail recipes by ingredients at Diffordsguide.com. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

24.THE NEW VEGETABLES, HERBS & FRUIT; an illustrated encyclopedia (Firefly, 2013, 2016, 704 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-798-2, $45 CAN hardbound) is by Matthew Biggs, Jekka McVicar, and Bob Flowerdew. Separately, they had written books dealing with vegetables (Biggs, 1997), herbs (McVicar, 1994) and fruit (Flowerdew, 1995), and they had last been revised in 2002. Here they have been collated into three distinct sections, with glossary, bibliography, seed sources, yearly calendar, and practical gardening matters. Each botanical plant has been identified, illustrated, given a variety of names under which it is known ("species"), some cultivation notes, some culinary uses, some medicinal uses, and some warnings and other uses. So for example, parsley has three zone 5 species, it propagates by seed, pests are notes, gardening and harvesting are noted, two preps (fine herbes and fish bouquet garni) are given, diuretic use and poultices are mentioned, and other uses include killing head lice. The warning is to not use parsley for medicine during a pregnancy. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Caution: the book weighs more than 3 kilos. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

25.101 MEATBALLS (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-774-4, $19.95 USD hardbound) is a publisher's collation of recipes from RPS cookbook authors. "Meatballs" in this context also means fish and veggies, and almost anything spherical, including the great arancini. This is universally adored comfort food, and here are 101 versions plus variations. Most of the preps came from Cathy Seward, Ghillie Basan and Laura Washburn, and the many others contributed about three each on average. Just about all the balls are spicy and international. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

26.ARTISAN BREADS; practical recipes and detailed instructions for baking the world's finest loaves (Skyhorse Publishing, 2004, 2011, 2016, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-65107-1252-2, $19.99 USD paperbound) is by Jan Hedh, a Swedish bread maker. The book was originally published in 2004 in Swedish, and here it has been translated and released into North

America. This is the paperback edition. He's got 110 recipes that are internationally based, and are quite suitable for home cooking. There are lots of primer-type information and photos of techniques and finished breads. There's nothing gluten-free here, and most of the preps are European influenced. There are sandwich breads, sweet breads, dark breads, savoury bread, brioches, Christmas breads, and the like. Preparations have their ingredients listed in only avoirdupois volume measurements,

with no scaling, and there is no table of metric equivalents. A concession to the American market? Quality/price rating: 82.

 

 

 

27.THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO FRYING; how to fry just about anything (Skyhorse Publishing, 2010, 2016, 264 pages, ISBN 978-1-63450-709-7, $14.99 USD paperbound) is by Rick Browne, a food writer specializing in BBQ. It's an all-purpose fry book, with a healthy dose of macho attitude. It seems like a safe purchase for that male in your life. It's a new edition with a new chapter on game day fried snacks. There's sections, anecdotes and stories for such as lobster and pork. Chapters cover appetizers, beef, fish, shellfish, pork, poultry, side dishes, sauces, marinades, veggies, game, desserts and batters. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Try fried salmon egg rolls, alligator marinade, oysters 'n' bacon, chicken-fried steak, or shark with fresh mango salsa. Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

 

 

28.100 WAYS WITH EGGS (Ryland Peters and Small, 2016, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-773-7, $19.95 USD hardbound) is a publisher's book with recipes contributions from 32 different cookbook writers. But mostly they are from Miranda Ballard, Tonia George, Shelagh Ryan, and Laura Washburn. These are eggs 100 ways (boiled, baked, fried, scrambled)from breakfasts to salads, hashes, desserts and cocktails. There is also included the usual food safety notice for when dealing with raw eggs. Pea, basil and feta fritters with roast tomatoes caught my eye, as did matambre (Argentine stuffed flank steak). Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

29.TINA NORDSTROM'S SCANDINAVIAN COOKING (Skyhorse Publishing, 2013, 2014, 2016, 384 pages, ISBN 978-1-5107-0614-9, $22.99 USD paperbound) was first published in Swedish in 2013 as "Tina". The next year it was translated and published in English in hardbound in the US. This is the jumbo paperback version. She's got 234 recipes that are mainly Swedish in taste but applicable to the whole region. Typical passions are for au gratin potatoes, salmon with warm grapes and capers, grilled watermelon and peanut sauce. She's hosted 14 seasons of cooking shows on TV, after qualifying as a finalist for Swedish Chef of the Year in 2001. Of note is the spiced bread with butternut squash puree, or marinated artichoke hearts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements for the most part, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

30.AUSTRIAN DESSERTS (Skyhorse Publishing, 2010, 2013, 2016, 447 pages, ISBN 978-1-5107-0646-0, $29.99 USD paperbound) is by Toni Morwald (pastry chef) and Christoph Wagner (food writer). It was originally published in German in 2010, and then in English in 2013 by Skyhorse. This is the 2016 paperbound edition. Here are more than 400 recipes for cakes, pastries, strudels, and candies. The range, all in separate sections, also includes puff pastes, tarts, schnitten, compotes and sauces, creams and mousses, souffles and puddings, dumplings, noodles, gnocchi, pancakes, doughnuts, ice creams, cookies, and parfaits. As such it is fairly  comprehensive. Preparations have their ingredients scaled and listed in metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

----------------------------------------------------

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: annual dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada at Tutti Matti

The Date and Time: Monday January 16, 2017  6Pm to 10PM

The Event: annual dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada

The Venue: Tutti Matti, King and Spadina

The Target Audience: members of the WWCC and their guests, almost two dozen in all.

The Availability/Catalogue: the wines were drawn from WWCC member cellars.

The Quote/Background: the annual dinner is really a fun time to which everybody brings their A game.

The Wines: I tasted most of these wines, and they were largely terrific.

 

Bubbly service at beginning:  -JEIO Rose Brut NV Italy

                              -Grange of PEC Lot 4 Brut NV VQA PEC

                              -Blu Giovello Prosecco NV

 

-LAN Crianza 2012 Rioja magnum

-Laztana Tempranillo Reserva Rioja 2010

-Fielding Riesling Reserve 2006 VQA

-Between the Lines Merlot 2009 VQA

-Rosewood Merlot 2011 VQA

-J. de Telmont Blanc de Blanc Brut NV

-J. de Telmont Cuvee Grand Rose Brut

-Franciacorta 2010 Monzio Compagnoni

-2007 Union Forté

-2012 Two Sisters Cabernet Franc VQA

-Mountain Road Winery Vidal Icewine 2000

-1990 Moulin Touchais

-2009 Roux Pere & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes

-Frescobaldi Nippozano Chianti Rufina Reserva 2012

-2005 Osoyoos Larose BC VQA

-Chateau Les Charmes-Godard 2012 Francs-Cote de Bordeaux

-Exultet Estates Chardonnay The Blessed  2010 VQA PEC

-Muscedere Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2008 VQA LENS

-Pisano Merlot and Tannat 2012 Uruguay

-Azores Sao Miguel Quinta Da Jardinette Merlot and Tempranillo 2014

-Sardinia Terre Bianche Torbato 2014 

 

The Food:  Antipasto Choice – Porchetta (slow roasted pig, tuna sauce, arugula, deep fried shallots, toasted country bread; Aqua Cotta (carrot, celery, onion, black cabbage, bread, duck egg served in a large soup bowl); Verdure (cauliflower, carrots, leeks, squash, black cabbage, pistachio bagna cauda).

 

Main Choice -  Crespella (crepes, fontina bechamel, wild mushrooms); Eliche Pasta (lamb, fennel, chick pea, rosemary); Costole Di Manzo (short ribs, beer, oranges, Rosemary, beets and beet greens).

 

Formaggio

 

Dolce  Tiramisu, Sorbetto

 

It was a meat crowd, so the porchetta and the short ribs won the raves, especially in combo with the wines.

The Contact Person: deantudor@deantudor.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Globe Bistro's 10th Birthday celebration

The Date and Time: Thursday, January 19, 2017   6PM to 10PM

The Event: Globe Bistro's 10th Birthday celebration

The Venue: Globe Bistro, Danforth

The Target Audience: friends, media, etc.

The Quote/Background: About 300 were expected for this "posh nosh" gathering of celebration, including owner-operator Ed Ho himself (who was on the guest list under "H").

The Wines: Globe served four wines: Cave Spring Chardonnay 2015 VQA (rated: 89), Hidden Bench Bistro Pinot Noir 2013 VQA (rated: 88), McManis Petite Sirah 2014 California (rated: 89), and Malivoire Pinot Gris 2015 VQA (rated: 88). I stuck with the Chardonnay, augmented by Flying Monkeys Hopping Mad IPA beer. There were other draught beers and bottled beers available, but essentially it was a wine crowd.

 

The Food: food was excellent, of course. Globe had wisely ordered a large cheese platter (about a dozen different cheeses, but no blues) and a large charcuterie platter (mainly gourmet sausages from around the world) from the Cheese Boutique. At this buffet table there was also a veggie platter of crudites and crisp breads. Two other platters by the kitchen comprised oysters and a roasted suckling pig. One-bite sized canapes were served by the staff: pig heart boudin blanc (wonderfully spiced), foie torchon, trout rillette, smoked cod croquette (my fave of the night: gotta love that smoke!), beef tartare, and Asian veggie rolls (also a fave). There was also black pudding terrine, squash pakoras, and northern woods mushroom crepes, but we did not see any. It was amazing how the staff were able to roll everything out in waves. Good team.

The Downside: we left early, just before 7:30 PM after seeing all the staff and picking our way through the crowds.

The Upside: a chance to see a few people I had not seen in a while.

The Contact Person: ed@globebistro.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 95.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for January 21, 2017.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for  January 21, 2017.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com

 

20 under $20

=========

W+119099 VIÑA COBOS FELINO CHARDONNAY Mendoza 2015 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 90

R+31005 ROCCA DI MONTEMASSI LE FOCAIE Maremma Toscana 2014 $15.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+66738 THE BLACK CHOOK SHIRAZ/VIOGNIER McLaren Vale/Padthaway, South Australia 2015    $18.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90

R+68163 BASCIANO CHIANTI RUFINA    DOCG    2013 $15.95 13/5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+168708 FERRATON PÈRE & FILS SAMORËNS CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2014  $15.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+167684 HONORO VERA MONASTRELL Jumilla 2015 $13.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

+205807 CAVE VINICOLE DU VIEIL ARMAND RIESLING Alsace 2015 $19.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+228528 MICHELE CHIARLO LE MARNE GAVI 2015 $16.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89+

R+260919 SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE CABERNET SAUVIGNON Uco Valley, Mendoza 2014 $19.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+357913 COLOMÉ TORRONTÉS Calchaquí Valley, Salta Arg. 2015 $15.95  MVC/QPR: 89

R+383539 MOJO CABERNET SAUVIGNON Coonawarra 2013    $17.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+404194 RUSTENBERG MERLOT WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch 2014 $19.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+410704 GRAN PASSIONE ROSSO IGT Veneto     2015 $16.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89+

R+477711 ALBUM RESERVA RED VR Alentejano 2013    $14.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

W+599274 LOOSEN BROS DR. L RIESLING Qualitätswein 2015 $13.95 8.5 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+208249 CHÂTEAU PEYROS TANNAT/CABERNET FRANC Madiran 2011    $16.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+470377  CASA DE CAMBRES RESERVA RED Douro 2009 $13.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90+

R+346742 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ST. DAVID'S BENCH VINEYARD GAMAY NOIR DROIT VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake 2015 $17.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+408120 BEYRA VINHOS DE ALTITUDE RED Beira Interior    Portugal 2014    $12.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

W+172726 GUICCIARDINI STROZZI VILLA CUSONA VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO 2015 $14.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

 

20 over $20

=========

W+57737 SPY VALLEY CHARDONNAY    Marlborough, South Island 2014 $22.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

W+414557 MARCHAND-TAWSE BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2014 $28.95 12.5%ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90

R+90191 THE HEDONIST SHIRAZ McLaren Vale South Australia 2013 $21.95  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+168286 BIBBIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013 $23.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+263517 BENMARCO EXPRESIVO UcoValley, Mendoza 2014 $39.95 14.5 % ABV, MVC/QPR:88

R+651141 ANTINORI PIAN DELLE VIGNE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO    2011 $62.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+424390 CVNE IMPERIAL RESERVA Rioja 2010 $38.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+465963 BABICH BLACK LABEL PINOT NOIR Marlborough 2014    $24.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+469288 SANTA ALICIA MILLANTU Maipo Valley 2012 $24.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+477968 VIGNETI ZABU IMPARI NERO D'AVOLA IGT Sicilia 2011  $36.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+681262 BANFI ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2014 $22.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+297945 CHÂTEAU LAROSE-TRINTAUDON Haut-Médoc 2012 $24.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+320168 DOMAINE DURIEU CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2014 $41.95 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+73817 RUTHERFORD RANCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Napa Valley 2014 $26.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+313270 DON JACOBO RESERVA Rioja 2009 $22.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+480152 FORESTER CABERNET/MERLOT Margaret River, Western Australia 2013 $27.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+959965 CATENA ALTA CABERNET SAUVIGNON Mendoza 2013 $47.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 87

R+104927 LAVAU VACQUEYRAS    AC 2014 $25.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 87

W+196667 JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE C.M. SANCERRE BLANC 2014 $27.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+468249 CHÂTEAU PITRAY Côtes de Castillon     2012 $21.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

11.STORM THE KETTLE (Whitecap, 2016, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-299-4, $29.95 CAD paperbound) is by Elaine Feore, who did catering and ran a restaurant in Windsor ON. Now she's in Newfoundland with Joanne Goudie, running The Blue Fish Bistro and Cafe. They've got some classic dishes and local foods, and some contemporary international offerings as well as Newfoundland stews and seafood dishes (salt cod soup, cod tacos, poached cod with mixed veggies). There are additional sidebars on Newfoundland's heritage and culinary evolution. It is all arranged from apps to sweets, with courses also in sections (lunch, dinner). There is a pantry, of course, with lots of food and local colour photos. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

12.GOOD TASTE (New American Library, 2016, 180 pages, ISBN 978-0-399-58337-7, $30 USD hardbound) is by Jane Green, bestselling author of The Beach House and Falling. It is her collection of simple and delicious recipes for her family and friends. The arrangement is by beginnings, middles and endings (starters/soups, mains, desserts). Along the way there is some good photography and memoir-like materials. It's pretty basic, such as French Onion soup (not sure why she needed to add sugar) or sweet corn and chili soup, mild green fish curry, warm chocolate and banana cake. Many preps come from her mother. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. A nice book for her fans. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

 

13.RAO'S CLASSICS (St. Martin's Press, 2016, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-00628-8, $35 USD hardbound) is by Frank Pellegrino Sr and Jr, with Joseph Riccobene. Senior had written two previous Rao's books; Junior had written Rao's Grill book, is the fourth generation owner, and runs the Western operations (Hollywood and Las Vegas). Log rolling comes from Bobby Flay and Drew Nieporent. Their book has more than 140 Italian faves from the New York restaurant in East Harlem since 1896 – with ten red-checkered tables for service. The range here is from antipasto through dolci, highlighted with pasta, seafood and meats. And there is a good history of the restaurants and of the people (lots of portraits at the back). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. This is definitely one for the fans who need their fix. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

14.FIREHOUSE CHEF (Whitecap, 2016, 196 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-306-9, $34.95 CAD paperbound) is by Patrick Mathieu, a firefighter and a cook, owning a catering company while also teaching culinary management, writing about food for a firefighting magazine, and appearing on TV's Chopped Canada. This book is part memoir as Mathieu describes his 15 years as a firefighter-cook. He's got some preps of his own as well as contributions from firehalls across Canada (but no calendar). The range is basic, from apps through sweets, with lots of photos of food and firetrucks, etc. It is a little bit on the guy side as firefighters want extra protein, so there is pulled pork, wings, elk chili, goulash and other stews. Hearty food for the winter. Anecdotes abound, woven in with the memoir material. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

15.BREAKING BREADS; a new world of Israel baking (Artisan, 2016, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-682-9, $35 USD hardbound) is by Uri Scheft, owner of Tel Aviv's Lehamim Bakery (2001) and NYC's Breads Bakery (2014). He deals with classics such as babka and pain de mie. He has recipes for Yemenite kubaneh. His focaccia is topped with shakshuka (eggs poached in tomatoes). His poppy seed hamantaschen turns savoury with beets and potatoes. There are also 130 colour photos as well, to complement the 100 preps for flatbreads, stuffed breads, challahs, and cookies. Preparations have their ingredients scaled and listed in both metric weights and avoirdupois volumes, but there are also tables of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

 

16.THE ENCHILADA QUEEN COOKBOOK (St. Martin's Griffin, 2016, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-08291-6, $27.99 USD hardbound) is by Sylvia Casares, owner of Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen in Houston. It was recently chosen by USA Today as in "The Top 10 Great Mexican Restaurants" in the USA. A lot of the food, of course, is Tex-Mex in style, with enchiladas, fajitas, tamales, tacos and other classics. Strangely, tortas are missing, and there is no pozole or lamb dishes. There's a quail recipe for the grill, chili gravy, slow-fried pork, stewed chicken breasts, and stacked enchiladas. Great looking food, filling for the colder seasons ahead. This is typical food from the restaurant, along with some of their fave drink and cocktail recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

17.SCRATCH (Rodale, 2016, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-62336-643-8, $35 USD hardbound) is by Maria Rodale, CEO of Rodale. She's the granddaughter of the founder. She's authored many books on organic food and gardening, but this is her first recipe book. These are 215 recipes developed from "scratch" (I have a whole roomful of scratch beside our freezer). Farm-to-table is the main theme of "home cooking for everyone made simple, fun and totally delicious" (subtitle). Melanie Hansche is the editor, recipe tester, and food stylist. The arrangement is typical: breakfast, salads, noodles, soups and sandwiches, snacks, mains (56 pages), sides, and baked desserts. And she endorses Michael Pollan: "East food, Mostly plants. Not too much". Try roast pork with sauerkraut, three-bean salad, panisse, escarole-farro-chicken soup, or celery with brown butter and toasted almonds. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

18.ANNA MAE'S MAC N CHEESE (Square Peg, 2015, 144 pages, ISBN  978-0-22410121-9, $27.99 CAN hardbound) is by Anna Clark and Tony Solomon; they run a food truck in London UK with that theme. They've been nominated for several BBC Good Food awards. It is an open and shut book: there are 50 preps for exotic mac 'n' cheese, sides, desserts and beverages. Mac 'n' cheese fries starts with leftover mac 'n' cheese and adds panko crumbs. Leftover mac 'n' cheese? Not in my house...Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric with few avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

19.LAYERED DESSERTS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-763-8, $21.95 USD hardbound) is by Hannah Miles, who competed on the BBC MasterChef series. She's published other niche cookbooks for RP & S, including ones on popcorn, cheesecake, and milkshakes. Here she zeroes in on 65 "layered cakes" which are retro but enjoying a revival: trifles, tiramisus, ice cream cakes, black forest, strawberry shortcake mousse and other similar goodies. It is arranged by themes: classic (mille-feuilles), fruity layers, frozen layers, and international. Preparations are scaled and have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

20.PERFECTLY PALEO (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-770-6, $19.95 USD hardbound) is by Rosa Rigby, a UK chef who now regularly hosts Paleo pop-up dining events. These are some 60 recipes for clean eating on a paleo diet. There is a wide-range of ingredients here, designed to provide sustainability and vitality. No processed foods, dairy or grains. Instead, nuts, seeds, eggs, quality meat and fish lead the way. It is not a diet so much as it is an approach. Typical arrangement includes breakfast, snacks, salads, soups, sandwiches, sides, mains and "tasty treats" (sweets). Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

21.SCANDIKITCHEN FIKA & HYGGE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-759-1, $21.95 USD hardbound) is by Bronte Aurell, a Swede who runs the ScandiKitchen Cafe and shop in London UK. Her food has also been featured on BBC and Danish TV. FIKA is a Swedish tradition for meeting for coffee. HYGGE is Danish for "coziness", as in comfort food. Together, these are the themes of the ScandiKitchen, and this is the resulting cookbook: comforting cakes and bakes. Arrangement is by form: biscuits and cookies; traybakes and no bakes; little fancy cakes; celebration cakes; breads and batters. Spices used include caraway, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds, ginger, saffron, orange peel. Grains are mostly oats and rye, with spelt and potato flour. Try custard tarts, blueberry stud muffins, honey cake, or hazelnut and mocha square.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Winterlicious media preview, City of Toronto.

The Date and Time: Thursday January 12, 2017  10:30 AM to noon.

The Event: Winterlicious media preview, City of Toronto.

The Venue: Lee, King Street West

The Target Audience: media

The Availability/Catalogue: There were posters and booklets detailing the restaurants and programs involved in Winterlicious 2017 for January 27 – February 9. The Culinary Event Series and the Prix Fixe Promotion were discussed. More information is available at www.toronto.ca/winterlicious for the celebration of 150 years of Canadian cuisine, Caribbean influence, bartending, and Italian seafood (among others).

 

The Quote/Background: Councillor Michael Thompson (Scarborough Centre) as Chair of Toronto's Economic Development Committee gave the major presentation on the annual Winterlicious prix fixe restaurant event, and introduced YP (Yellow Pages) Dine as the presenting sponsor for the next three years, and Chef Susur Lee for today's host restaurant. More than 220 restaurants are included in this year's Winterlicious, with menus from $18-23-28 at lunch to $28-38-48 at dinner. More than 6.2 million meals have been served during this promotion, which began in 2003 to assist in slow periods of business in January and July.

The Food: a major force on the Toronto restaurant scene is Susur Lee, so it was fitting that the media launch presser was at his premier restaurant Lee. Since Lee is only open for dinner, there was just the dinner menu ($48), and we had a generous selection of samples such as the excellent appetizer spring roll duo (cheeseburger spring roll + cod & stone crab spring roll with cream cheese, highlighted by smoked chili mayo + kaffir lime – all on a bed of lettuce leaf for a wrap) and the appetizer Thai fried chicken with tamarind chutney and green apple kimchi. From the mains we had samples of a stunning seared yellowfin tuna with a mustard ponzu butter sauce. Great food, lovingly prepared and served. Coffee and ESKA Natural Spring Water were also available.

The Downside: the event was slightly late in getting started.

The Upside: social media were out in force, with #LiciousTO, @LiciousTO, instagram.com/liciousto, facebook.com/LiciousTO, plus @leerestaurant and @susrlee.

The Contact Person: Anastasia Saradoc <asarado@toronto.ca>

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

22.BETTY CROCKER COOKBOOK. 12th Edition (Betty Crocker, 2016, 688 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-64892-0, $29.99 USD loose leaf binder) is an updated old classic and standby, last seen here as the 11th edition in 2011. Over 75 million copies have been sold. This is a five-ring loose-leaf binder with regular magazine stock paper. There are 1500 or so easy to follow recipes, plus more than 500 variations illustrated with 1000 photos. There are new chapters on casseroles and one-dish dinners, beverages, whole grains and vegetarian cooking. Other new features incorporate international flavours, make-ahead ideas and essential kitchen techniques. Prep and cooking times are clearly indicated; it has been updated to reflect today's lifestyles. The covers have a few emergency substitutions listed, as wells as yields and equivalents. The pages are easy to rip apart: they'll need reinforcing at some point. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

23.POWER VEGETABLES! (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 272 pages, ISBN 978-0-5534479-8 $35 USD hardbound) is by Peter Meehan and the editors of Lucky Peach. These are vegetarian recipes with highly charged flavours, such as the root veggie tagine with red chermoula and couscous. The emphasis here is the "meatiness" of the meat-less dishes – as the subtitle states, "turbocharged recipes for vegetables with guts". What ever it takes...It is arranged by course, from apps to salads to soups to mains, and ending with bread and cake (zucchini bread, parsnip cake, potato rosemary cake). There is butternut squash with piquillo crema, memelitas, spanakorizo, malfatti, falafel (of course), eggplant marinara. Lots of choices for "guys". Not so much a vegetarian book as a "meatless" book. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

24.FIRESIDE FEASTS & SNOW DAY TREATS; indulgent comfort food for winter eating and entertaining. Rev. ed. (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2012, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-777-5, $24.95 USD hard covers) is a project from the publisher. More than 150 recipes and ideas for eating during the colder months have been assembled from a dozen or so cookbook authors who regular write books for Ryland. The largest collection of recipes comes from Laura Washburn with 41. It is all arranged by snacks, comfort homey food, feasts, some indulgences, and cheery drinks for a cold night. It's a good book to take to your ski chalet. Typical preps include chicken liver parfait, cheese and basil soufflés, spicy pork satay, salt cod, meat balls, Vietnamese beef pho, seafood and yellow split pea curry. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85

 

 

 

25.LUNCH ON THE GO (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-771-3, $19.95 USD hardbound) is by the publisher's team, with recipe credits going to 16 writers who do books for RPS. There are 75 preps here, the largest number coming from Amanda Grant, Laura Washburn, and Louise Pickford. The intent is to create a lunch box, for both adults and children. This can both save a lot of money on purchased lunches and give us more nutrition and fewer preservatives. It is win-win, which adults recognize, but it might be hard to convince the offspring. This could have been developed a bit more in the text. It is arranged by form of lunch: sandwiches, wraps, salad jars, bowls, bentos, soups, savouries, snacks, and sweets. Something for everyone – sweet potato, spinach and goat cheese quesadilla; couscous salad; Mexican bento box; chicken and red pepper stew; Indian tiffin box. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois with some metric measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

26.WEEKEND COOKING (Skyhorse Publishing, 2014, 2016, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-5107-0967-8, $19.99 USD hardbound) is by Tina Nordstrom, once at the Culinary Olympics but now a solid food columnist and cookbook author. It was originally published in 2014 in Swedish; this is the 2016 translation. As she says, these are "old and new recipes for your Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays". Indeed, the book is divided into three chapters of about 25 preps each, and titled after those days. Friday's recipes are fast and simple, Saturday's are more challenging with entertaining ideas (appetizers, wine pairing, decadent desserts), while Sunday appears to be a sleep=in followed by brunch. Large print and sharp photography. Saturday has a large number of small plates, so it may be an all day thing (edamame fired in sumac and chili oil, beet tartlets, warm tomatoes and grapes with parmesan breadsticks, deep fried avocados, etc.). Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

27.MORE THAN MEATBALLS (Skyhorse Publishing, 2014, 2016, 187 pages, ISBN 978-1-51071147-1 $16.99 USD paperbound) is by Michele Anna Jordan, who has written two dozen books. It's a reprint of 2014 edition with new recipes. You could also call them "round morsels of bite-sized savoury food". Here are about 70 recipes, from arancini to zucchini fritters. The range is from "classic" Italian polpetti, French boule de viande, Spanish/Mexican albindigas, Moroccan merguez, and Sicilian arancini. There's a meat section and a meatless section, plus a pairing section with sandwiches and salads. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. And it has the world's smallest typeface for the index. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

28.OCEAN GREENS (The Experiment, 2015, 2016, 180 pages, ISBN 978=1=61519-352-3, $24.95 USD hardbound) is by Lisette Kreischer and Marcel Schuttelaar. It was originally published in the Netherlands in 2015; this is the English translation. And it is a great idea for a book: the world of edible seaweed and sea vegetables. These are superfoods with Omega-3s, iron, calcium, essential vitamins and nutrients. There are 50 vegan recipes here, including creamy spirulina sauce, piccalilli, warm dulse and fava bean salad, "fishless soup" (a natural) and pumpkin salad with sea spaghetti. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Just don't eat seaweed found loose on a beach. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

29.THE COMPLETE GLUTEN-FREE BAKER (Ryland Peters & Small, 2011, 2013, 2016,192 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-762-1, $21.95 USD hardbound) is by Hannah Miles, a MasterChefUK finalist and prolific cookbook author for RPS. The recipes had been previously published in two separate volumes, "The Gluten-free Baker and "The Savoury Gluten-free Baker". So that explains the use of the word "complete" in the title, in that it collates these two books. The range is cookies, brownies, cakes, muffins, scones, pies, tarts, party bites, breads and doughs. In general, gluten-free baking is different from wheat-barley-rye in that there is no gluten (obviously) – but gluten is not really required for non-breads and buns. The "chew factor" is what determines a good gluten-free bread. However, if doesn't work, you can always use it for breadcrumbs in cooking. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

11.MOZZA AT HOME (Knopf, 2016, 415 pages, ISBN 978-0-385-35432-5, $35 USD hardbound) is by Nancy Silverton, co-owner or founder of five restaurants and author of nine cookbooks. As a chef, she has also won two Beard Awards. Carolynn Carreno, her focusing food writer, is a Beard Award journalist and co-author of many cookbooks. Here, Silverton  gives us 19 menus of recipes that can mostly be prepared in advance with the purpose of entertaining (a main, apps and sides). And of course all of these can be mixed and matched. At the end, she has 17 desserts in a separate section. Typical menus include "Umbrian tavola", "Nicoise deconstructed", "Sicilian swordfish spiedini", lamb and chicken tikka kebabs, flattened chicken thighs, "Southern-style Korean cut short ribs with vinegar onions". The book is a real treat with innovative groupings for the home cook. I loved the avocado salsa. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but unfortunately there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

 

12.MOLLY ON THE RANGE (Rodale, 2016, 284 pages, ISBN 978-1-62336-695-7, $32.50 USD hardbound) is by Molly Yeh, food writer and blogger. It is a celebration of family roots, cultural exchange, and the "meaning of home" – an extension of her blog. She is currently a farmer on the North Dakota-Minnesota border, but her story goes from Chicago through New York to her current sugar beet farm – along with her photography. It is self-referential and memoirish but then most food blogs tend to be that way, although there is more permanence about them when they are published on hardbound paper. Among the eight log rollers are Amanda Hesser and Marian Bull, prominent food writers. It is arranged by course, beginning with breakfast and brunch, moving through mains, snacks and desserts. She's got 120 preps to suit all manner of talent, including schnitzel bao with sriracha mayo and sesame pickles, black sesame milk, quinoa carbonara, Asian Scotch eggs, latkes, and marzipan. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

13.THE RYE BAKER (W.W. Norton, 2016, 368 pages,ISBN 978-0-39324521-9, $35 USD hardbound) is by Stanley Ginsberg, co-author of the 2012 IACP award winning "Inside the Jewish Bakery" and owner of The New York Bakers website which sells supplies, equipment and rye flours.

There is some impressive log rolling from Peter Reinhart, Tartine Bakery, and King Arthur Flour. He's got 70 recipes dealing with the classics of rye breads from both the Old and the New Worlds: alpine Austria, upper Italy, Scandinavia, Germany, Baltics, Poland, Russia, immigrant breads of North America. There's Swedish gotland rye, Russian Borodinsky, Westphalian pumpernickel, Old Milwaukee Rye, plus Austrian country boule. The range embraces the nearly black colours to the lighter shades, and many include caraway seeds. Good detail. Of course, everything is scaled, with Baker's Percentages, and great directions for the home cook. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, and there are also multiple tables of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

14.CURATE (Flatiron Books, 2016, 290 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-05944-4, $35 USD hardbound) is by Katie Button, chef-owner of the Spanish tapas bar Curate in North Carolina, as well as Nightbell, an Appalachian restaurant/bar. She interned at elBulli (Ferran and Albert Adria are two of her eight log rollers). Genevieve Ko is the focusing food writer and recipe tester. It's arranged by course, beginning with starters, soups, moving through seafood, meats, veggies, rice and beans, brunch and lunch, desserts – and then drinks. There is also lots of material about Curate along with the photos. Tapas from Curate have been adapted to be larger dishes for the home cook, and  Button also gives us other Spanish cuisine dishes. She carefully explains the principles of Spanish cooking (food shopping, meat treatment, pantry/larder, et al) and also re-creates the meals that she has at home with her family in North Carolina. The photography is extensive. Typical are artichoke salad with radishes and salted yogurt, grilled sardines, marinated lamb skewers, blood sausages with rice, sherried mushrooms, quail in escabeche. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

15.THE MOON JUICE COOKBOOK (Pam Krauss Books/Avery, 2016, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-8041-8820-3, $30 USD hardbound) is by Amanda Chantal Bacon, founder of the US Moon Juice wellness brand. The subtitle indicates "cook cosmically for body, beauty and consciousness". There are 75 preps for the cult brand's most popular healing beverages and foods. The pantry needs to be stocked with milks, juices, doughs and cultured foods – which can be combined together to create power meals. It is arranged by liquid: juices, well milks, moon milks, lattes, kefir, followed by cheeses, fermented veggies, and raw chocolate. There's a well milk chart, which details how to make almond milk, walnut milk, Brazil nut, hazelnut, pumpkin seed, lait de coco, hemp and coconut milk, and sesame butter milk. She's got some good notes on how to become an alchemist. First rate photography. If you need this, you've got it. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

16.COOKING WITH MARY BERRY (DK Books, 2016, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-5951-0, $25 USD hardbound) is by Mary Berry, well-known British cookbook author who has appeared as a judge on UK cooking shows and competitions in the American market. This is one of her first books for US viewers, although she has written over 70 (seventy!) cookbooks in the UK. Here are 150 everyday recipes "that my American viewers will love". There are also some UK specialties in the mix as well, such as Chelsea buns. Bath buns, It is a standard arrangement: breakfasts, soups & starters, mains, sides, breads, and desserts. It is international, with curries, enchiladas, hummus, salade nicoise, focaccia, Persian pilaf. Standard and classic Mary Berry. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and  avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

17.THE SAFFRON TALES (Bloomsbury, 2016, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-63286-710-0, $35 USD hardbound), is by Yasmin Khan, a UK food-writer-cook who runs classes and pop-up supper clubs. It began with a Kickstarter campaign in 2013; 277 people backed her. She's got log rollers Yotam Ottolenghi and Nigella Lawson on board for this book of recipes from the Persian kitchen. It's arranged by course, breakfast to mezze and sides, salads, soups, mains, and desserts. There are separate indexes for gluten-free and dairy-free recipes, and six menus (Iranian new year, vegan feast, Persian picnic). There is also a list of some eight quick and easy weekday suppers. Persian names for dishes are given alongside English titles and a photo of the plated dish. Cook notes and chapter outlines  provided generous detail of her travels, and who she spoke to and the kitchens she visited: rice paddies, tea plantations, coffee shops, spices and seafood. Try the spicy lentil and tamarind soup, the chicken livers with pomegranate molasses, spiced beef with eggs and spring onions, or the grilled mackerel with a spicy pomegranate salsa.

Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

18.THE RED ROOSTER COOKBOOK (Rux Martin/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-63977-5, $37.50 USD hardbound) is by Marcus Samuelsson, who owns Red Rooster Harlem and other Manhattan restaurants. He's a Beard Award winner for "The Soul of a New Cuisine", and is a TV cooking show judge. Even with all these credits the publisher wanted some log rollers, including Leah Chase of New Orleans and Daniel Boulud of Manhattan. The text has been done with April Reynolds; the recipes with Roy Finamore. It is also a collection of stories from the locals of Harlem. Recipes relate to soul food (of course), but also to other aspects of Harlem: bread from Jewish emigrants, Latin food, Caribbean food, Italian pasta, Korean rice. A lot of the book has engaging personal photos and nicely written memoirish stories. It is a tome to study and contemplate. Some ingredients may be hard to source, and some dishes will need an experienced cook. But ultimately it is also a cookbook to read cover to cover, perhaps by the armchair traveller. For the musically inclined, he's also listed some playlists. Try bird funk and chicken liver butter or catfish with blackening rub or roasted turnips dduk. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

 

19.LOVE YOUR LEFTOVERS (Bloomsbury, 2015, 336 pages, ISBN 978-1-4088-6925-3, $35 USD hardbound) is by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall from River Cottage in the UK. It was originally published in the UK in 2015, and here has its North American debut. As he says, these are "recipes for the resourceful cook", with primers on planning for leftovers, pantry/larder stocking, and some platforms for usage such as soups, salads, frittata, pies, curries, pastas – all of which can utilize leftovers in some capacity. Then come the recipes for meat, fish, roots, greens, breads, rice, dairy, eggs, and fruit. There is even a special section for Christmas, which apparently generates the most leftovers of all time. With its international scope, it is also a very colourful book. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly metric with just a few avoirdupois volume measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. This may not sit well with the US cook. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

20.COOKING FOR JEFFREY (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-46489-7, $35 USD hardbound) is by Ina Garten, possibly the world's best selling cookbook author and host of Barefoot Contessa. This is her tenth book, and here she cooks for her husband of almost 50 years. It is part memoir, with stories of their life together. But otherwise it is a straightforward family cookbook of Jeffrey's fave foods, such as brisket with onions and leeks or roasted salmon tacos. She's also got a chapter on bread and cheese. Good heavy typeface draws out attention to the recipes and the ingredients – hard to miss. The layout, of course, is standard Ina, and concludes with a basic pantry and basic kitchen equipment. Of special note is the listing of 12 of Jeffery's all-time fave dinners, and includes scallops provencal, bolognese, herb-roasted fish, parmesan chicken,  spiced pork, et al. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

21.10-MINUTE RECIPES (Hay House, 2016, 294 pages, ISBN 978-1-4019-4970-9, $19.99 USD paperbound) is by Liana Werner-Gray, who was very sick until she turned her life around with her "The Earth Diet" (the name her first book, her blog and her company). Here she concentrates on fast food, clean ingredients, and natural health. She's got more than 350 recipes that can be done in 10 minutes or less. It covers a range of goodies such as juices, shakes, smoothies, breakfasts, salads, raw vegan mains, cooked vegan mains, meat eater dishes, sides, desserts, and condiments. With such a range of preps, she's also got some meal planning ides and guides. These do include plans for specific goals, such as breaking the addiction to junk food, alkalizing your body, detox, weight loss, anti-inflammatory, high-protein, skin guide, and kid-friendly guide. This good resource continues with recommended resources and a bibliography. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for January 7, 2017.

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for  January 7, 2017.

========================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com

 

THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS –

(This is the smart money & good value release, just after your Christmas spending. So there are NOT many wines in the release at over $20. Consequently, there are THIRTY wines in my newsletter under $20 worthy of your consideration, and only TEN from the "over $20" list.)

 

R+0391896,SEIN,2011,$17 Alicante, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R+0420810,SAGELANDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON,2014,$18.95,Columbia Valley 13.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R+0436949,COLI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA,2009,$16.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

W+0470427,GÉRALD TALMARD MÂCON-UCHIZY,2015,$15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+0467787,ANTINORI PIAN DELLE VIGNE ROSSO DI MONTALCINO,2014 $31  13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.

 

30 under $20

-----------------

 

W+0389726,BOYA SAUVIGNON BLANC,2016,$15.95,Leyda Valley, MVC/QPR: 89.

R+0394973,QUERCECCHIO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO,2014,$15.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88.

W+0462481,SAVEUR VERTE BY JEFF CARREL,2014,$19.95,IGP Côtes Catalanes, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+0470351,ODISSEIA TINTO RESERVA,2012,$19.95,DOC Douro 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W+0470393,ALAIN GEOFFROY PETIT CHABLIS,2015,$19.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0473132,CANTINA SAN PAOLO AGLIANICO,2015,$13.95,IGP Campania, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+0474171,AD LIB CRUEL MISTRESS PINOT NOIR,2014,$14.95,Pemberton, Western Australia, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89+

R+0475624,CA' DEL MONTE VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO CLASSICO SUPERIORE,2011,$19.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0477075,I BALZI ROSSO,2013,$15.95,IGT Veneto, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+0480574,SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA ESTATE PINOT NOIR,2015,$12.95,Leyda Valley, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+0483321,NOBLE VINES 337 CABERNET SAUVIGNON,2013,$17,Lodi, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88

W+0673236,LAURENT MIQUEL NORD SUD VIOGNIER,2014,$14.95,IGP Pays d'Oc, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0673897,JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ,2014,$16.95,Padthaway, So Austral 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R+0704353,IRONSTONE LODI MERLOT,2015,$17.95,Lodi, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

W+0907683,MARYNISSEN CHARDONNAY,2013,$15,VQA Niagara Peninsula, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0005199,KILIKANOON THE LACKEY SHIRAZ,2015,$17.95,South Australia, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+0011072,THE GOATFATHER,2014,$14.95,WO Coastal Region 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0025718,ROCCA DI FRASSINELLO POGGIO ALLA GUARDIA,2013,$18.95,DOC Maremma Toscana, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0037036,TRIVENTO AMADO SUR MALBEC/BONARDA/SYRAH,2014,$16.95,Mendoza, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0116574,HEARTLAND STICKLEBACK RED,2013,$14.95,Langhorne Creek, South Australia, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

W+0126847,MAN FREE-RUN STEEN CHENIN BLANC,2015,$13.95,WO Coastal Region, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0134577,UMANI RONCHI JORIO MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO,2013,$16.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W+0175752,JIP JIP ROCKS CHARDONNAY,2015,$16.95,Padthaway, So Australia, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0230391,CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE,2012,$19.95,AC Lussac Saint-Émilion, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R+0272575,GÉRARD BERTRAND GRAND TERROIR TAUTAVEL GRENACHE /SYRAH/ CARIGNAN,2013,$18.95,AP Côtes Du Roussillon-Villages, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

W+0330613,CALAMUS BARREL KISSED CHARDONNAY,2013,$16.95,VQA Niagara Peninsula, 12.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R+0354753,RIO MADRE GRACIANO,2014,$14.95,DOCa Rioja, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

W+0461400,MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES VERDEJO,2015 DO Rueda $14.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

W+0981670,MOUNT RILEY SAUVIGNON BLANC,2015,Marlborough, $17.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R+0163154,OLIVARES ALTOS DE LA HOYA MONASTRELL,2014,DO Jumilla, $13.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

 

10+ over $20

-----------------

 

R+0469536,CHÂTEAU CLOS DU LOUP CUVÉE PRESTIGE,2010 $   Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux $22.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R+0473124,SOPRASASSO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA,2012 $34.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+0468272,CHÂTEAU LA CROIX D'ARMENS,2012,$24.95,AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+0437277,CHÂTEAU HAUT FAUGÈRES,2010,$47.95, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru [Second wine of Château Faugères] 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+0164707,LEONARDO CHIANTI RISERVA,2012,$20.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

W+0085274,NIKOLAIHOF HEFEABZUG GRÜNER VELTLINER,2014,$20.95,Wachau 11.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+0123927,DOMAINE DU MEIX-FOULOT CLOS DU CHÂTEAU DE MONTAIGU MERCUREY 1ER CRU,2013,$38.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R+0479691,GABRIEL MEFFRE SAINT-BARTHÉLÉMY VACQUEYRAS,2014,$25.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

W+0479824,BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET,2014,$66.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+0146951,FOLIE À DEUX CHARDONNAY,2014,$24.95 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 13.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+0470443,MARQUIS DE MONTFERRAT SAINT-JOSEPH,2012,$29.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+0743385,CHÂTEAU BOUSCASSÉ,2009,$21.95,AP Madiran 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

23.BETTY CROCKER FRESH FROM THE FREEZER (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-81624-4 $19.99 USD paperbound) is 150 recipes from the magazine's cooking labs. These are all freezer-friendly plates, ranging from frozen slow-cooker preps to easy casseroles and baked dishes. There are some Special Freezer Essential preps that have dishes such as turkey meatballs and ground beef, that can be used to make Freezer Short-Cut recipes. There is full nutritional info for each recipe. Just pop into freezer and then thaw and re-heat in most cases. It works best with meat/seafood dishes and baked goods. Hey, and the publisher has been reading my reviews for there is a metric conversion guide!! Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

24.MARTHA STEWART'S VEGETABLES (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 328 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-95444-2, $29.50 USD hardbound) is from the editors of Martha Stewart Living. There are 150 recipes, mostly vegetarian, with an emphasis on colours: greens, reds, yellows, oranges.  They've been tested in the cooking labs, The book is arranged by the physical nature of the plant: bulbs (lily family), roots (beets, turnips, jicama), tubers (potatoes), greens (chard, kale, bok choy), stalks & stems (asparagus, fennel), pods (edamame, fava), shoots (microgreens), leaves (lettuces, cabbages), flowers & buds (artichokes, broccoli), fruits (avocados, tomatoes, eggplants), and kernels (corn). There are notes for seasonality, buying and storing, and prepping and cooking, followed by flavour pairings and some recipes – with plated dishes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

25.ANDREW JEFFORD'S WINE COURSE. Rev. and updated. (Ryland Peters & Small, 2008, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-778-2, $24.95 USD hardbound) is by the winner of eight Glenfiddich writing awards and six Roederer Awards. Jefford, a UK wine writer, has also collected many other awards, such as for best wine writer of the year in 2006 and 2007. This is another basic primer, structured much like a class. Contents are threefold: first up are "The Tools" of how to taste, drink and learn, wineglasses, decanters, and so forth. There are three projects that you must do here. After that, you move on to the next level, "The Elements", with its five projects revolving around grapevines and styles. It is here that we learn Zinfandel is a third-level grape, like Vermentino. The last – "The Journey" – is the pilgrimage, with its 12 projects on countries and regions. So that's 20 projects in all, enough for a month. There is just one page on Canada, and that is mostly Ontario and mostly icewine. Sidebars are used extensively, but no question-answer formats. It is all from a UK perspective: Jefford does not go overboard about USA wines, so that keeps everything in balance. There is a glossary and an index, but although reading about wines is encouraged, there are no lists of recommended books or even suggested readings or websites. Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

 

 

26.BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS SKILLET MEALS (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-80087-8, $24.99 USD hardbound) is from their test kitchen, and displays more than 150 recipes for almost everything: pizza, steak, brownies, pies. There are special icons for preps that can be made in 30 minutes or less, icons for healthsmart reduced calories and/or fats, and icons for dishes that are prefect for cast-iron skillets. Cast-iron is to be preferred with its heavier bottom, lower purchase price, seasoning ability, and imparting tiny bits of iron into the food. If you are on an iron-restricted diet, then you'll need a stainless steel-lined or a tri-ply. The range is from apps to desserts (but with only two for fish: salmon). A really goof basic book, full of principles and tips. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

 

27.FLAVORS OF MOROCCO; tagines and other delicious recipes from North Africa (Ryland, Peters and Small, 2008, 2012, 2016, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-784-3, $24.95 USD hardbound) is by Ghillie Basan, cookery writer specializing in Middle East cookbooks and food articles. This cookbook is revised from two earlier tagine books published in 2008 and 2012. There is a primer on tagines. Lamb tagine is traditional, but she also has preps for beef, kefta, sausage, chicken, duck, vegetable, fish and seafood tagines. That's half the book. There are also a range of couscous, skewers, roasts, pan fries, sides, salads, soups, sweets, and drinks. So it is a full Moroccan cookbook. And you can always use a heavy-based casserole dish instead of a tagine. Some interesting recipes include kefta tagine with lemon and coriander; Berber lentils and coriander; tagine of lamb with veggies and mint; fluffy pistachio nougat. Preparations have their ingredients listed in partial metric and full avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

28.A COOK'S TOUR OF FRANCE (Hardie Grant Books, 2013, 2015, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-74379018-2, $29.99 USD hardbound) is by Gabriel Gate, French author of 22 cookbooks. This latest comes from his TV series "Taste Le Tour with Gabriel Gate", which extended over 9 seasons. He's been to France for two months every spring to shoot the series, and most of the preps are contributed from the French chefs, pastry cooks and charcutiers (eight are especially named). It is a bit of a travel book too, but the arrangement is not by region but by courses, from apps through veggies, fish, poultry, meats, and sweets. Material comes from all the main regions including Pyrenees, Burgundy, Loire, Nice, Normandy – all from the previous 4 years of the TV series: Lyonnaise cheese dip with herbs, baked haricot beans with bacon, beef cheek stew, duck with turnips, crunchy almond biscuits. Each prep is sourced with some detailed notes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

29.BROWNIES, BLONDIES AND OTHER TRAYBAKES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-765-2 $19.95 USD hardbound) is a publisher's compilation from RP & S cookbook authors. This time the theme is 65 traybakes, mostly brownies and blondies, with credits going mostly to Annie Rigg, Linda Collister, Sarah Randall, and Victoria Glass. 14 other authors were involved; they were all co-ordinated by Alice Sambrook. The preps are quick and easy, such as apricot flax seed bars, lavender shortbreads, chocolate marshmallow brownies, and spiced pear cake. Preparations have their ingredients listed mostly in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

30.101 ONE DISH DINNERS (Storey Publishing, 2005, 2016, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-61212-841-2, $16.95 USD paperbound) is by Andrea Chesman, prolific author of cookbooks. She teaches classes and demos at fairs and festivals across the USA.  This book was originally published in 2005 as "Mom's Best One-Dish Suppers". Here are 101 preps for filling just one utensil (skillet, Dutch oven, soup pot or salad bowl) with a complete meal. Mac 'n' cheese comes to mind, as well as a Thai noodle salad. International flavours are stressed. Typical are sausage and kale with garlic roasted potatoes, seafood paella, corned beef and cabbage. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

31.BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS MAKE IT DON'T BUY IT (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 480 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-80086-1, $29.99 USD loose leaf three ring binder) is from their test kitchen. The emphasis is on making foods yourself, and not buying processed products. Their stress: real food, real ingredients. As the editors say, this is really serious stuff – made-from-scratch basics include Greek-style yogurt, crackers, pretzels, marshmallows, salad dressings, seasoning mixes, ketchup, mustard, pickles, etc. It is better for you and cheaper! 300 recipes also cover cured salmon, pasta, preserving (jams, jellies, veggies) – even fermenting sriracha sauce, sauerkraut, and kombucha. Contemporary items include nut butters, cold brew, and coffee creamers. Nutrition information comes with every recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

----------------------------------------------------

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

 

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

BESOTTED (Sonderho Press, 2016, 82 pages, ISBN 978-0-9917484-6-4, $25 CAD paperbound) is by Larry Horne, who works as sales manager for Calamus Winery in Niagara. He has spent 30 years in the broadcast sales business and then moved to St. Catharines in 2005. He began his quest for truth in wines in 1984, and this book is a cumulative memoir/diary of his adventures around the globe, subtitled: "My Love Affair with Wine". It's one person's account; your life may have varied...He's been motivated by his passion for all things wine, and thus has written a rich and zesty memoir that documents his status as a beginning wine taster, wine collector, amateur winemaker, grape grower and the Noble Rotters. Plus the Ontario Wine Society. Wine has also been the basis for his many international travels with his wife and wine-drinking partner, Alice (many food and wine writers seem to have wives named Alice). They have traveled to Kiwiland, Oz, Left Coast, Finger Lakes, Napa, Germany, France, and Tuscany in search of the ultimate wine-tasting experience, and these adventures figure prominently in his memoir/diary. If you want a paper copy of the book, send a cheque for $25 CAD (includes postage) to Larry Horne at #37-275 Pelham Road, St. Catharines, ON, L2S 3B9, and be sure to include your return address. The e-book is available via -

 

Kobo – https://www.kobo.com/ca/en/ebook/besotted-6?utm_source=indigo&utm_medi%C3%A2%E2%82%AC%C2%A6

Chapters – https://www.chapters.indigo.ca/en-ca/books/besotted/9780991748471-item.html?ikwid=besotted&ikwsec=Home&ikwidx=0

Kindle -  https://www.amazon.co.uk/Besotted-My-Love-Affair-Wine-ebook/dp/B01M5GFPM7

 

Audience and level of use: Canadian wine lovers.

The downside to this book: too quick a read that may end up in the john genre.

The upside to this book: it is actually a worthy contribution to the literature of the Canadian wine industry and history – there aren't too many memoirs like this one.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.