Gothic Epicures VinCuisine: September 2020

Wednesday, September 30, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for OCTOBER 3, 2020

NOTE: There is NO Vintages release on October 17, so the next World Wine Watch will be October 31.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on or some time. HOWEVER, the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.

Some New Wines Tasted Over the Past Fortnight ---

1.Henry of Pelham Classic Cabernet-Merlot 2019 VQA Niagara Peninsula +504241 LCBO $15.95: this entry level wine is dependable and consistent from year to year. This time it has cabernet franc, merlot, and cabernet sauvignon. The Bordeaux-themed blend comes across as a mid-Atlantic version of Cali/Bordeaux. It is still a young wine and could profit from a double-decant. Extended maceration in stainless, followed by barrel aging. It has been modestly aged in used oak. Great with foods cooked in the Mediterranean basin style. 12.8% ABV on label. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

2.Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Classic 2019 VQA Ontario, +270926 LCBO $15.95: As with their previous baco noirs at all levels, HOP has maintained the rich jammy character. This entry level baco has also been re-titled "Baco Noir Classic" and I suspect other HOP entry level varietal wines will also be labeled "Classic", probably with a price rise of a dollar or so. US barrels are used for more than six months aging. It is still too young for today [only seven months old], needs another year or two. 13% ABV. One of the top General List bacos in Ontario. Quality/Price rating is 88.5 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

3.Just Merlot 2019 Pays d'Oc, +17528 LCBO October $11.95: an easy drinking entry-level merlot from the warmer south of France (Languedoc, Rhone). Ripe, oak free, good mix of red and black berries, smooth. 13.5% ABV. Good unpretentious value for the price. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

4.LangeTwins Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Lodi, +572305 Vintages $24.95: "Certified Green" sustainable. A great wallop of cherries begins the aromatics and dominates right through to the finish in typical Cali-style. 18 months aging in mostly French oak barrels, long rich ending with toasty notes. But only 2.4 g/L residual sugar. 14% ABV. Cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

5.Sacred Hill Pinot Noir 2018 Marlborough, +277665 Vintages Halloween $19.95: typical Kiwi pinot noir from the heart of New Zealand, one of their better values for under $20. While the colour is a bit light, the dynamics of the palate are red cherry-berry all the way, with underbrush notes. Soft tannins dominate the finish. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

6.J. Bookwalter Readers Chardonnay 2018 Columbia Valley Washington, +634162 Vintages Halloween $19.95: I enjoyed the Cab from Readers awhile back, and I am happy to say that I enjoyed the Chard from Readers as well. It's a blend of Chardonnay and Viognier (20%) which puts it on maybe the same level as a Chardonnay Musque. Certainly, you would want no oak here, and that is a given. It is all stainless and the wine blend is co-fermented. The Viognier contributes honeysuckle and peaches, of course. The Chardonnay dominates with other orchard fruits and compelling citric notes. The blend is aged (with stirring) four months on its lees, and then bottled after a further two months. 13.6% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

7.Gerard Bertrand Terroir Languedoc Red 2017 +413237 Vintages Essential, $16.95: the last vintage here was 2015. It's a blend of syrah and grenache, promising both black fruit and red fruit tones at an affordable price. Local garrigue is apparent, complemented by some fennel. Part of the wine is transferred over to 225-litre oak barrels where it is aged for roughly 10 months. 14% ABV. Good price, especially if you buy before Oct 10 (LTO $2 off). Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Under $20 at Vintages Oct 3

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W+89011 FEATHERSTONE SAUVIGNON BLANC VQA Niagara Peninsula 2019 $17.95

MVC/QPR: 91

W+469593 THIERRY DELAUNAY LE GRAND BALLON SAUVIGNON BLANC IGP Val de Loire 2019 $14.95 MVC/QPR: 90

W+26146 CASETTA ROERO ARNEIS DOCG 2018 $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89

W+688259 BEST'S GREAT WESTERN RIESLING Great Western, Victoria 2019 $19.95

MVC/QPR: 90

R+444703 MONTGRAS ANTU CABERNET SAUVIGNON Sustainable, DO Maipo Valley 2018 $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+15095 CONDEMINAL PONCHO PAMPA PINOT NOIR Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2018 $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+677476 JIM BARRY COVER DRIVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON Coonawarra, South Australia 2017 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 90

Over $20 at Vintages Oct 3

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W+149302 FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY VQA Niagara Peninsula 2018 $21.95 MVC/QPR: 92

W+441089 ROMBAUER CARNEROS CHARDONNAY Carneros 2018 $63.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+127324 THE FOREIGN AFFAIR CABERNET SAUVIGNON Partial appassimento, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2016 $39.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+73817 RUTHERFORD RANCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON Napa Valley 2017 $39.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+638551 LE PARVIS CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE AC 2017 $56.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+16909 PLANTAGENET SHIRAZ Great Southern, Western Australia 2013 $39.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Rose+451906 SAINT AIX ROSÉ AP Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence 2019 $25.95 MVC/QPR:91

Sparkling+15691 MEIOMI SPARKLING Traditional method, North Coast, California $35.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Sweet+47209 PUKLUS PINCÉSZET TOKAJI ASZÚ 5 PUTTONYOS Tokaj-Hegyalja, Hungary 2013 $35.95 MVC/QPR: 89

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, September 21, 2020

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1.THE PIKES COCKTAIL BOOK: rock 'n' roll recipes from the iconic Ibizan hotel (Ryland Peters & Small, 2020, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-212-7 $24.95 USD) is a collaborative effort from the hotel, with text by Dawn Hindle, its creative director. Ibiza is Spanish, just off the Mediterranean coast; it's about 10 times the size of Manhattan. It's usually very warm and humid year round, which makes it a perfect party place. Pikes has a very colourful book on its hands, with gorgeous photography and recipes, usually one per page. The arrangement is by time of day, beginning with what to drink at "poolside". There are usually about 10 preps per time, with the bulk being at "sunset" and "dinner" and "night time". Concluding, of course, with "the morning after". You go there to drink, to hear music, and to dance. If music be the drink of love...

Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements.

Audience and level of use: fans of Ibiza or Pikes Hotel, or collectors of cocktail books. It's a great gift book.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: vodka seems to lead the way for the base alcohol, and the names of the drinks (e.g. "slippery when wet") are localisms. Rest assured, all the classics are here (sangria, punches, margarita, mojito, martini, et al) with their variations.

Quality/Price Rating: 90

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, September 16, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for SEPTEMBER 19, 2020

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Some New Wines Tasted Over the Past Fortnight or so ---

1.Best's Great Western Riesling 2019 Victoria, +688259, $19.95 Vintages October 3, 2020: really good age-worthy (20 years or more) Riesling wines from plantings that began in the 1860s at Best's Nursery Block. According to the producer, here are some 41 and 75 year-old vines. Opens with fragrant blossoms on the nose, lemons and apples for entry (of course), some tropicality on the mid-palate, finishing with some austere-ness. A keeper. 11% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

2.Abeille-Fabre Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2016, +959627, $53.95 Vintages September 19, 2020: its price is up eight bucks since last year's 2015 vintage release, but it is still too young to consume unless you double-decant and drink it over a few days. Half of the wine was made in barrels, the other half in vats. A selection of the better barrels is made with the vatted wine into a single blend, and after 18 months together they are bottled. It will be well-aged after another 10 years. Of the 13 permitted varieties, grenache, syrah, and mourvedre are dominant, with cinsault, counoise, muscardin, and vaccarese added. Still tight but plenty of black fruits and spices. 14.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

3.Henry of Pelham Chardonnay 2019 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +291211 LCBO, $14.95: ripeness, pleasant balance of acid and fruit, integrated style in place, some freshness in the finish. Overall, terrific balance of fruit in the finish, with residual sugar at 6.1g/litre. 12.7% ABV, screw cap, gravity-driven, fermented in stainless with aging sur lie. Apple and citric tones, completely unwooded. Try with a light cream sauce (pasta, trout, veggies). Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

4.Henry of Pelham Estate Fume Sauvignon Blanc 2019 VQA Short Hills Bench, +444268 $19.95 winery only: Very aromatic with nuances of toastiness both in the nose and on the palate, somewhat in a fume style started by Robert Mondavi fifty years ago. Typical savvy zestiness is tamed by oaking and unctuous fruit tones. Medium finish accents lemon and vanillin character, melon, honeysuckle. Best as a classy sipper on its own, but also with a lightly aromatic first course. 50% BF in barriques, a half-year aging in oak barriques. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

5.Campbell Kind Wine Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Marlborough, $22.99 consignment through selectwines.ca: Steve Campbell, of www.campbellkindwines.com, has the world's first international range of sustainable, carbon zero wines. International wineries and winemakers craft environmentally-friendly wines for their retail partners. Campbell Kind Wine currently has several varieties of wines in play, which include Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, Syrah and Chenin Blanc from South Africa, Tempranillo blend from Ribera del Duero, Montepulciano blend from Abruzzo, and IgT Rosso Veronese from Verona, and others. I sampled the savvy: made by Steve Smith, New Zealand's first MW, of Smith and Sheth among the Marlborough riverbeds. It's a dynamic wine made from some 30-year old vines, with a medium-body and lower levels of MVC (Modal Varietal Character), especially tropicality and orchard fruit, but with more minerality and citric lemon tones, leading to a higher crisp finish. It's ideal with fried foods. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

6.Saintly The Good Sparkling Rose Gold 2019 VQA Ontario, +16767 LCBO, $18.95: an all-purpose medium-body off-dry styled wine for patios, terraces, decks, etc. with nuances of strawberries and melons. Grapes include 46% Chardonnay, 46% Cab Franc, 4% Sauvignon Blanc, and 4% Syrah (the grapes and percentages could change from harvest to harvest). Very light-pink in colour, persistent mousse from the cuve close Charmat method. Extended lees contact leads to a creaminess in the body. In three words: fresh, fruity, dry. What more could you ask for in a very pleasant and consistent all-occasion celebratory drink? 3 g/L residual sugar. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

7.Saintly The Good Sparkling [white] Gold 2019 VQA Ontario, Wine Rack only $18.95: another all-purpose medium-body off-dry styled wine for patio, terrace, deck, etc. with nuances of orchard fruit (apples, pears, peaches) and citric tones. Grapes include 82% Pinot Gris, 15% Muscat, and 3% Chardonnay (the grapes and percentages could change from harvest to harvest). Persistent mousse, Charmat method, extended lees contact – all contribute to a creamy style. What more could you ask for in a very pleasant and consistent all-occasion celebratory drink? 10g g/L residual sugar makes it "dry to off- dry". 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Under $20

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W+284588 WATERKLOOF CIRCLE OF LIFE WO Stellenbosch 2016 $19.95 MVC/QPR:90

W+146423 SUTHERLAND CHARDONNAY WO Elgin 2018 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+523001 CAVE SPRING CABERNET FRANC VQA Niagara Peninsula 2017 $17.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+496463 PASSO DEL CARDINALE PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA DOP 2017 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Over $20

R+461699 HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE BACO NOIR VQA Ontario $24.95 MVC/QPR: 91

R+14149 MORANDE GRAN RESERVA SYRAH/CABERNET SAUVIGNON Central Valley 2017 $21.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+959627 CHÂTEAU MONT-REDON CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE AC 2016 $54.95 MVC/QPR: 90

R+13676 MICHELLE PHILIPON SANTENAY AC 2017 $42.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+466375 PODERE BRIZIO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG 2015 $72.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Sparkling+405035 HUFF CUVÉE JANINE SPARKLING ROSÉ Traditional method, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario 2016 $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, September 12, 2020

TASTING OF SANDBANKS WINERY IN AUGUST 2020 --

1.Sandbanks Sleeping Giant Foch – Baco Noir 2018 VQA Ontario +164087 LCBO, $19.95 (but as a Limited Time Offer from August 17 to September 13 it is priced at $17.95): based on marechal foch and baco noir grapes, this wine comes loaded with the intensity of rustic red fruit and mocha tones, tempered by deftly placed wood notes. Try with roasts. A previous vintage was OWA Gold Medal 2018 and All Canadian Wine Championships Gold Medal 2018. 14g/L residual sugar and 12.5% ABV. Cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

2.Sandbanks Baco Noir Reserve 2019 VQA Ontario +225920 LCBO, $19.95 (but as a Limited Time Offer from October 12 to November 5 it is priced at $17.95): plenty of full-bodied black fruit here, displaying also some mocha in its development. Some light barrel aging as well. Best with grilled meats. A previous vintage was OWA Bronze Medal 2018 and All Canadian Wine Championship Double Gold 2018. 13 g/L residual sugar and 12.5% ABV. Cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

3.Sandbanks Route 33 Red (Merlot-Petit Verdot) NV VQA Ontario +17370 LCBO, $19.95: another full-bodied wine, loaded with charm and character reminiscent of typical Bordeaux. The bi-varietal blend is merlot and petit verdot (both commonly used in Bordeaux), all showing red cherry-berry aromatics and textures coupled with some oak tones from extended barrel aging. Plummy too. Best with strong cheeses or sauced meats. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

4.Sandbanks Route 33 White (Riesling-Pinot Grigio) NV VQA Ontario +17369 LCBO, $14.95: another bi-varietal with dry tropical fruit notes and crispness, slightly herbal complexity, with a lemon-lime finish. Very useful in a reliable sense. 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

5.Sandbanks Pinot Grigio 2018 VQA Ontario +372219 LCBO, $15.95: this is a competitive category, but Sandbanks goes up very well against other grigios in Ontario. Typical nuances include orchard fruit (peach, pear, apple) with some aromatic tropical overtones. It is refreshing on the mid-palate, finishing with citric notes. 8 g/L residual sugar and 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

6.Sandbanks Beach Riesling NV VQA Ontario +139022 LCBO, $14.95: a very decent seafood-ready consistent wine in the riesling tradition of petrol and minerals augmented by the range of orchard fruit found in nectarines, plums, apricots, and peaches, ending with a lemony citric crispness. 16G/L resideual sugar and 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

7.Sandbanks Smugglers White NV VQA Ontario +648642 LCBO, $13.95: a nifty blend of vidal and pinot grigio, with a very light colour but lifted aromatics of pineapple and orchard fruit, following through on the mid-weight palate and ending with a citric finish appropriate for food. 7g/L residual sugar and 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

8.Sandbanks Summer Rose NV VQA Ontario +14867 LCBO, $14.95: this is vidal with skin contact, so the appearance is almost like an orange wine – which makes it sort of trendy. It's also a seasonal release, so when it is gone, it is gone. And it is also lightly sparkling but kept under a twist top. The suggestion on the label is to chill it, not only for the flavour as a white wine but also to stop any bubbles from gushing. Dominating flavours include nectarines and oranges with other tropical notes, right through to the finish. 31 g/L residual sugar, 11.6% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

9.Sandbanks Rose 2019 VQA Ontario +244616 LCBO, $13.95 (but as a Limited Time Offer from September 14 to October 11 it is priced at $11.95 – just in time for Thanksgiving): this is mostly vidal with some gamay, pinot noir, and muscat blanc. It is lightly tasty with an emphasis on floral bouquet. It has a great balance between sweet and tart flavours, within the peachy-citric range. Lovely finish. A previous vintage was All Canadian Wine Championships Silver Medal 2018. 12g/L residual sugar and 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, September 1, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for SEPTEMBER 5, 2020

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

SOME RECENT SPARKLING ROSE WINES TASTED --

Wines are either at the LCBO (CSPC given) or the winery. Wines are arranged randomly.

**DEAN'S CHOICE "best sparkling wine" was Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Brut Rose Champagne NV $99.95 +158550 (personal rating of 93-94).

**DEAN'S CHOICE "best sparkling wine value" was Colio Estate Wines Lily Sparkling Rosé NV $17.95 +536565 VQA Ontario (92)

I did not rate Leitz Eins-Zwei-Zero NV Rheingau Pinot Noir Sparkling $12.95 LCBO +12549 as it has no alcohol, but it certainly tastes magnificent for 0% ABV, and of course it is in a category by itself.

Producer Product Name Vintage Price LCBO # Country Region Grape Varieties Alc. %

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Laurent-Perrier Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Brut Rose NV $99.95 +158550 Champagne Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier 12% LCBO Vintage Essentials

-Huff Estates Winery Cuvee Janine Rose 2017 $30 +405035 Canada PEC (VQA PEC) Pinot Noir 12.5% Winery/Online

-Chateau des Charmes Rose Sparkling 2014 $34.95 Canada Niagara Pinot Noir & Chardonnay 12% Online, Winery

-Colio Estate Wines Lily Sparkling Rosé N/A $17.95 +536565 Canada VQA Ontario 90% Riesling 10% Cabernet Franc 12% LCBO Year Round

-Gruet Sparkling Brut Rose NV Method Champenoise New Mexico $26.95 +15686 pinot noir 12% Vintages

-Flat Rock Cellars Crowned Sparkling Brut 2015 $45.00 Niagara Peninsula Pinot Noir 12% Winery Only New Release

-Bottega Spa Bottega Vino Dei Poeti Brut Rose NV $14.95 +277202 Italy Veneto Pinot Nero 11.5% LCBO

Under $20

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W+68015 FLAT ROCK UNPLUGGED CHARDONNAY Certified sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2019 $17.95 MVC/QPR: 89

W+557165 HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE RIESLING Certified sustainable, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment 2019 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 90

W+225557 ERADUS SAUVIGNON BLANC Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island 2019 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89

W+15614 REMY PANNIER VOUVRAY AC 2018 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+168708 FERRATON PÈRE & FILS SAMORËNS CÔTES DU RHÔNE AC 2018 $16.95 MVC/QPR: 92

R+323741 ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES CABERNET SAUVIGNON Margaret River, Western Australia 2018 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Rose+117861 FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ Sur lie, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2019 $15.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Over $20

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W+258186 ROBERT MONDAVI RESERVE CHARDONNAY Carneros, Napa Valley 2017 $61.95 MVC/QPR: 89

W+520403 BACHELDER WISMER WINGFIELD OUEST VINEYARD CHARDONNAY VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment 2017 $47.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+157347 ENRICO SERAFINO BARBARESCO DOCG 2016 $29.95 MVC/QPR: 90

R+15084 SARTORI RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 120th anniversary bottling, DOC 2015 $29.95 MVC/QPR: 91

R+719211 CLINE ANCIENT VINES ZINFANDEL Contra Costa County 2017 $26.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+127712 FERRATON PÈRE & FILS LA MATINIÈRE CROZES-HERMITAGE AC 2017 $26.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Sparkling+460865 CAVE DE LUGNY BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE Traditional method, AC, Burgundy, France $22.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Port+216424 POÇAS COLHEITA PORT DOP Douro, Portugal 2003 $45.95 MVC/QPR: 89

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com