Gothic Epicures VinCuisine

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 4, 2012

2012-01-31T16:15:00.001-05:00

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 4, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2010 Uco Valley Mendoza: wonderful
aromatic complexity, partial BF for Sauvignon Vert, Pinot Gris,
Chardonnay and Torrontes varieties. +66829, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Vieil Armand Medaille Gewurztraminer 2009 Alsace: 13% ABV, dynamite
MVC, whirling world of lychee, peach, citrus, and some bittering.
+260158, $16.95, QPR: 91.

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Albino Armani Egle Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2008: "Ripasso of
the month". +247916, $15.95, QPR: 89.
2. Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGT Veneto: a lighter Bordeaux-like
style, good value at this price. +987701, $14.95, QPR: 90.
3. Maetierra Dominum Quatro Pagos Reserva 2005 Rioja: delicious, albeit
sweet tones, not drying out, 14% ABV, "Reserva" not noted on front
label. +246660, $19.95, QPR: 89
4. Columbia Crest Grand states Merlot 2007 Columbia Valley Washington
State: smoke and toast dominate, fruit after mid-palate. Yummy. 13.5%
ABV. +263418, $15.95, QPR: 91.
5. Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec 2010 Mendoza: dense, 13.5% BV, but good
finishing acid for food pairing. +162529, $13.5, QPR: 89.
6. La Posta Angel Paulucci Vineyard Malbec 2008 Mendoza: ripe and
juicy, long finish, food or sipper. 13.9% BV. +75515, $15.95, QPR: 89.
7. Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2009 Padthaway: dense and chunky, some
mint showing, 14.5% BV. +186114, $16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Tapestry BG & V Shiraz 2009 McLaren Vale: twist top, rich and fruit,
14% ABV. +247155, $17.95, QPR: 89.
9. Chateau Haut-Canteloup 2009 Blaye: dynamite MVC Bordeaux, 13% ABV,
delivers flavour and value, ready now. +64747, $13.95, QPR: 93.
10. Chateau Piron 2008 Montagne St-Emilion: juicy, affordable, 12.5%
ABV. +176982, $16.95, QPR: 89.
11. Perrin Nature Cotes du Rhone 2010: very good finish and development
for this organic wine. +948059, 16.95, QPR: 90.
12. L'Excellence du Chateau Bladinieres 2008 Cahors: delicious wood
aging, 13% ABV. Gold Medal. +264671, $16.95, QPR: 90.

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

1. Antolini Moropio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006, +247957,
$34.95 retail.
2. Stratus Chardonnay 2008 VQA NOTL, +267856, $42.20.
3. Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay 2008 Flocchini & Sangiacomo
Vyds, Sonoma, +356519, $45.95.
4. Domaine Jean Collet & Fils Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 008, +650804,
$28.95.
5. Domaine Fouassier Les Grands Groux Sancere 2009, +267948, $24.95.
6. Mission Hill Reserve Merlot 2008 VQA Okanagan, +553313, $25.95
7. Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon 2007 Napa, +80218, $89.95.
8. Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Sonoma, +642207, $24.95.
9. Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Blue Label Merlot 2008
California, +595686, 24.95.
10. Kilikanoon Testament Shiraz 2007 Barossa, +50047, $39.95.
11. Loacker Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino 2005, +237263, $49.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

First Saintsbury Society Dinner of 2012 now a matter of record...

2012-01-30T12:01:00.001-05:00

The Date and Time: Saturday, January 28, 2012 7:30 PM to 11:30 PM

The Event: Saintsbury Society Dinner

The Venue: somewhere in the East End of Toronto

The Target Audience: Members and Guests

The Availability/Catalogue: Most of the wines were not available as they were older vintages. Our host provided a tasting of Gigondas.

The Quote/Background: "One of the rules is: we cannot ask you back to this location." This secret society, without its robes, appears to specialize in gourmet dinners and old wines at members' houses. Some outsiders get invited to participate. Tonight it was my (and my wife's) turn.

The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine de Mavette Gigondas 2007 (13.5%), $23.95 Vintages

-Delas Freres Cornas 1983 Chante Perdix

-Josef Draften Wittinger Scharzberg Riesling Extra Dry Mosel Sekt 2009, 12.5%, $13.95 Vintages

-Domaine de Cabasse 2007 Gigondas, 15% $29.95 Vintages

-Cuilleron Cote Rotie 2007 Terres Lombres, 13.5%

-Domaine de Bonsterine Cote Rotie 2008 La Sarrasine

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau de Trinquevdel 2011 Rose Tavel (13.5%), $17.95 Vintages March

-Hartz Barn Sparkling Shiraz 2001 Black Bead Barossa, 13.5% en magnum

-Domaine des Bernardins Muscat Beaumes de Venise 2009, 15% half-bottle

-Domaine Mathieu Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 Blanc, $35

-Domaine de Grapillon d'Or 1806 Gigondas 2010, Vintages upcoming

-Domaine de Grapillon d'Or 1806 Gigondas 2009

-Domaine de Grapillon d'Or 1806 Gigondas 2007, $31.95 Vintages

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Ferme de Mont Cotes du Rhone Blanc La Truffiere 2009, 13.5%

-Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2006, 14.5%

-Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2002, 13.5%

The Food: The food was Rhone/Provence, so the wines matched that theme with grape varieties or regions. We began with sweet and savoury nuts and herbed black olives, followed by water chestnuts wrapped in Rowe Farm bacon. All of these with the sparklers and the Tavel; the latter went best of course. To the table and some hand-cut foie gras and chutney with lovely Muscat Beaumes de Venise, slightly off-sweet here. The Asian pear shrimp salad was lovingly presented with Romaine spears and a Marie Rose sauce in a plastic double Martini glass, very effective. The Cotes du Rhone Blanc offered bracing fruit and acidity for the pear. Out came the main: huge braised Australian lamb shanks and their mirepoix, truffled mash, and roasted parsnips (cut lengthwise). It took forever to consume (they were tender, but they were big), and then we needed the time and space for nine red wines to taste and match. I needed help with extra shank meat, but I got through it before the honeyed figs and pistachio ice cream with biscuit arrived. There was a floral Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc with this course, delightful in its structure.

The Downside: it was a slippery and slid-y icy night, plus there were four other wines that we never got to.

The Upside: A range of five Gigondas for tasting.

The Contact Person: deantudor@deantudor.com

The Event's Execution (numerical grade): 95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

2012-01-28T14:57:00.001-05:00

1. Antoine Moueix Merlot Bordeaux 2010, +245860 GL LCBO, $12.95, an easy drinking affordable Bordeaux, twist top, 13.5% ABV, from a Saint Emilion specialist. Young vines give it a characteristic light tannic finish, but it could go either way as a sipper or with food

2. 181 Merlot Lodi 2008, +226530 GL LCBO, $16.95, another easy drinking merlot from California. The number 181 refers to the Merlot clone imported from Pomerol; the wine emphasizes its roots. Best as a sipper.

3. Mionetto Il Prosecco NV, +588053 GL LCBO, $11.95, weighing in at 10.5% ABV and with a crown cap, this newest addition to the growing list of proseccos in Ontario meets a demand for lower price and lower alcohol. The category has apparently exploded last year, up 16% across Canada. No cork means a lower wholesale price to the LCBO. Off-dry, frizzante style, aperitif or party wine.

4. Cantine Clavesana D'Oh Dolcetto di Dogliani 2010 Piemonte, $12.95 GL LCBO, +268037, is a welcomed addition, principally because of its fruitiness. It'll give Beaujolais a run for its money at 12.5% ABV. 90% of the company's production is Dolcetto (the co-op has 350 vintners), and 90% of all that is for domestic sales so only 10% is exported. Expect warm red fruit tones, very useful as a sipper.

5. Mountain Road Wine Company Chardonnay 2007 Unoaked Niagara, +700067 Winery Only, $14.95: orchard fruit, good long finishing acid, highly extractive body, more like an aging Chablis. 13.7% ABV. An aperitif wine.

6. Mountain Road Wine Company Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2006 Niagara, Winery Only, $15.95: one of my fave wines, aromatically positive, expressive Euro mode, good creamy oaking, food wine, long finish, maturing well (over five years now). Best with cheese, fish and chicken. 13.9% ABV. First Prize Ribbon at Royal Winter Fair in 2010.

7. Mountain Road Wine Company Chardonnay Reserve 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Winery Only, $25.95: typical baked apple and tropical fruit, butter, vanilla, caramel and cream, highly extractive, some underbrush, rich and fat. Body leads to good mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Cuvee 2010 Gold Medalist.

8. Mountain Road Wine Company Vidal Icewine 1999 VQA Steve Kocsis Vineyard Beamsville Bench, 375 mL, +977049, Winery Only, $39.95: tropical fruit, oranges and honey, but acidity balances sweetness, leading to a rich long finish. Considering its age, this is a bargain wine. It got a Lieutenant-Governor's Award 2011 for Excellence in Ontario Wine.

9. Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2010 Puklus Cellars Hungary (+46508 Vintages, $14.95 retail, 750 mL, Vintages January): related to Muscat Blanc, from older vines, done up in Late Harvest style, with that peachy complexity, medium-bodied, but with lemons and pineapple acidity on the longer finish. Floral aromatics. 12% ABV, a bit less this year. Serve with later courses (fruity mains, salads, cheeses, off-dry desserts).

10, Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo (+275594 Vintages, $19.95 retail): offers immense value, with its deep black fruit (cherry-berry), vanilla, toast, some anise, very French like. 5% Cabernet Franc added, 14.5% ABV, aged 14 months in mixed-use oak barrels, ready to consume now. All the grapes come form 15-year-old low yield vines of Alto Jahuel in Maipo.

11. Rodney Strong Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve Russian River Valley Sonoma 2009 ($34.95 b consignment, Mark Anthony): with 14.5% ABV, this baked apple and vanilla-driven white leaves a long, buttery finish. Lees stirring has promoted creaminess. There is something here for all Chardonnay lovers, or at least for those who dislike stainless steel. Barrel fermentation in French oak (one-quarter new), all malolactic, and 13 months aging.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

2012-01-24T21:52:00.000-05:00

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books

17. CAKE COUTURE; modern sugar-craft for the stylish baker (Firefly,
2011, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-949-0, $19.95 CAD paper covers) is by
Annie Dam, who owns and operates "Cake Couture" cake boutique in
Edmonton. It is also published by Quintet Publishing in the UK. She's
written about decorative techniques for publications, and has appeared
on Breakfast TV and other place. Here she has written a book about the
art of decorating, principally wedding cakes, celebrations and
cupcakes. It's Spanish- and French-influenced (Dam herself comes from
Vietnam). The basics are covered in a primer, with over 120 pages
devoted to decorating techniques (with photos). In addition, she also
covers transporting, displaying and storing. There's a thumbnail index
to such decorations as violet scrolls, cube, black and white ribbons,
ribbon roses, ruffled brooch, mardi gras and 14 more. Each recipe has a
similar layout. For example, to make a "lustrous peacock", she outlines
tools required (over 30), materials (16), and a timeline beginning one
week ahead. There are 17 photos showing techniques and assembling
requirements. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric
and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

18. THE ROSIE'S BAKERY ALL-BUTTER, CREAM-FILLED, SUGAR-PACKED BAKING
BOOK (Workman Publishing, 2011, 418 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-5407-5,
$15.95 US paper covers) is by Judy Rosenberg, owner of the Rosie's
Bakery chain in Boston. It was first announced under a different title,
with about 300 recipes. Here, that total has dropped to 250. She had
written two other baking books (one got an IACP Award) which together
sold over 310,000 copies and this current book combines the "best" of
those two books and then adds 40 new ones to the package. The larger
arrangement is by category (cakes, cookies, bars, pies and fruit
desserts) with smaller groupings for such as layer cakes, bundts,
tubes, loaves, rolled cakes, cheesecakes, and cupcakes for the "cakes".
Try truffle soufflé, banana rum bread pudding, peaches and cream
custard, stovetop rice pudding, lemon cream cheese squares.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois volume (not
weight) measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. You
may not need this book if you already have the other two. Quality/price
rating: 87.

19. BACK TO BAKING; 200 timeless recipes to bake, share, and enjoy
(Whitecap, 2011, 330 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-063-1, $40 CAD hard
covers) is by Anna Olson, host of many food shows on Food Network
Canada. This is her seventh book with Whitecap, and they honoured her
by publishing it in hard covers! It's a basic book, of course, which
she says provides fundamental formulas and guidelines. There is also a
higher level of sophistication here for some more complicated preps. So
it is a book for both the novice and the adventuresome: muffins, coffee
cakes, sticky buns, pies, tarts, cookies, bars, custards, cakes.
There's a whole chapter on gluten-free desserts, with about three dozen
preps, plus other chapters on dairy-free desserts, egg-free desserts,
and low-fat and/or low-sugar desserts. Try the gluten-free honey almond
shortbread, or the pistachio snowball cookies, or the whole wheat
carrot sticky buns, or the complicated Hungarian dobos torte.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
And all the ingredients have volumes, and are not scaled. Quality/price
rating: 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

2012-01-22T23:11:00.001-05:00

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

23. THE SOTHEBY'S WINE ENCYCLOPEDIA; the classic reference to the wines
of the world, 5th edition rev. (DK, 2011, 736 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-
8684-0, $50 US hard covers) is by prolific wine writer Tom Stevenson.
The first edition was in 1988, and Stevenson has done a remarkable job
in chronicling the changes over the years. The last edition was in
2007, with the same US price, but only 664 pages. Here there are 72
more pages, needed for entirely new content such as the ABC of Grape
Varieties and A Chronology of Wine. Also inn this new edition, he has
reworked all the maps, with major changes to Greece, Romania, Israel,
South Africa, North Africa and Asia. He also claims that the new
Italian and United States' maps have every single DOC and AVA listed.
Other updating deal with wine producers, new appellations, and recent
vintage assessments. His book is arranged geographically, covering all
the wine-growing areas, history and reputation. There are new useful
photos. There are sections on all the factors affecting taste and
quality. Stevenson authors many profiles of important producers, giving
assessments of individual wines. He also has a section on enjoying
wines, including wine tasting; wine and food, star ratings, taste
charts to profile flavours, flaws in wines, and vintage charts back to
1976 in general, with earlier mentions for key years. He even has some
detail about regional oak varieties with illustrated close-ups of the
grain. The book concludes with a glossary (Micropedia) and an extensive
index. Many changes are devoted to New World wines (California,
New Zealand, Australia, India, Asia). Stevenson gives detailed coverage
of the whole world and 6000 wineries are recommended; he is also a good
writer. Canada gets six pages, covering 25 Ontario wineries and 23 in
BC, plus Nova Scotia and Quebec, with up-to-date notes. There is an
"author's choice" section which lists the best wines, with a lengthy
description and aging ability. With over 1000 photos and maps (plus
scores of Top Ten lists), it's hard to get more comprehensive, fresh
and up-to-date than this book right now. Quality/Price Rating: 92.

24. THE RESTAURANT; from concept to operation. Sixth edition. (John
Wiley & Sons, 2011, 557 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-62643-6, $82.59 US hard
covers) is by John R. Walker, a hospitality professor at the University
of South Florida. This book has always been a one-stop guide to the
resto biz, and is well-read in hospitality schools. New to this edition
is greater emphasis on business leadership and management,
sustainability, business plans and the independent operator, cultural
history of eating out in America, purchasing meat, cocktails, spirits
and non-alcoholic beverages, and the influences of Native Peoples and
African American food on the industry. Although heavily pitched to the
US scene, there is enough of value here to us in Canada. Quality/price
rating: 89.

25. ARTISAN BREADS; practical recipes and detailed instructions for
baking the world's finest loaves (Skyhorse Publishing, 2004, 2011, 240
pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-487-5, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Jan Hedh, a
Swedish bread maker. The book was originally published in 2004 in
Swedish, and here it has been translated and released into North
America. He's got 110 recipes that are internationally based, and are
quite suitable for home cooking. There are lots of primer-type
information and photos of techniques and finished breads. There's
nothing gluten-free here, and most of the preps are European
influenced. There are sandwich breads, sweet breads, dark breads,
savoury bread, brioches, Christmas breads, and the like. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in only avoirdupois volume measurements,
with no scaling, and there is no table of metric equivalents. A
concession to the American market? Quality/price rating: 82.

26. THE COMPASSIONATE COOK; or, "Please don't eat the animals!" a vegan
cookbook (Grand Central Publishing, 1993, 2011, 24 pages, ISBN 978-0-
446-39492-5, $13.99 US paper covers) is by People for the Ethical
Treatment of Animals and Ingrid Newkirk, president of PETA. It was
originally published in July 1993, and here it has been reprinted in
2011. It's a guide to low-fat, cholesterol-free and animal-friendly
eating, with over 225 basic vegetarian/vegan dishes covering all
courses and meal patterns. There are the usual substitution tips,
listing of healthy ingredients, and some advice on how to eat out.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. Well-worth an affordable
look. Quality/price rating: 85.

27. THE BOOK OF YIELDS; accuracy in food costing and purchasing. Eighth
edition. (John Wiley, 2012, 298 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-19749-3, $37.50
US spiral comb) is available separately from the hard cover book done
by Francis Lynch. I had reviewed the book previously as: "a basic work
for students and chefs, and it comes with a workbook. It tells you what
you need to know for how much food to buy". It is a collection of
accurate food measurements for over 1,350 or so raw food ingredients
(200 new foods since the 2008 edition). Measurements are given in
weight-to-volume equivalents, trim yields, and cooking yields. Part One
of the contents covers herbs and spices, produce, starchy foods,
baking, fats and oils, dairy, beverages, meats, seafood, and poultry.
Part Two is the workbook of costing sheets and conversion tables. Here,
recipe cost and yield are most important. Spreadsheets, though, should
be able to handle all of this. There's also a new chapter on standard
portion sizes to assist in menu planning, recipe development and
costing. For the most part, only US measurements are given, so you will
need to convert to metric or imperial. That is why a spreadsheet works
better than paper and pen. But there are conversion charts inside the
book. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 90.

28. FOOD AND BEVERAGE COST CONTROL. 5th ed. (John Wiley & Sons, 2011,
544 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-25138-6, $97.95 CAD hard covers) last came
out in 2008. The authors are academics and consultants Lea Dopson and
David Hayes. We all know that there are razor-thin profits in the food
hospitality industry. Such outlets embrace all types of restaurants,
bars, sports complexes, grocery stores, room service, country clubs,
banquet halls, etc. This book emphasizes the need for control, in order
to maximize profits and minimize shrinkage. Its contents cover managing
as a Food and Beverage Manager (basic accounting, forecasting,
predicting sales), the cost of food, storage, and inventory with
plenty of forms to view. More chapters cover the cost of beverages,
labour, and "administration". Another part of the book deals with
pricing, analyzing charts, and verifying data. There is information on
security, such as dishonest employees, false invoices, scams, skips,
and the like. For example, chapter four is on beverage control (45
pages). This is mainly booze control for all of the industry as noted
above. There is how to forecast sales of beer, wine (wine by the glass,
too), spirits, cocktails and their mixes. All of it applies to
standardized drinks and portions, markups, constructing a wine list,
storage and inventory, and to the ubiquitous forms. Forms are available
for finding how to compare the costs of beverages. I'm not sure how
much of the record keeping applies to Canada, since there are
provincial regulations on what has to be recorded for government
inspectors and revenue filing. Anyway, the appendices have all of the
useful formulae. As a textbook for the hospitality schools, it fulfills
its functions: there are questions and answers for students to discuss
and then to apply. Each chapter has lists of key terms and concepts,
plus selected tests for you to try out. Additional readings are also
suggested. New to this edition are sections on sustainability and
environmental responsibility, and more on international foodservice
operations. Quality/Price Rating: 90.

29. EASY PARTY FOOD; simply delicious recipes for your perfect party
(Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-162-9,
$19.95 US hard covers) has over 100 recipes taken from the publishers'
books of cookery authors Fiona Beckett, Susannah Blake, Maxine Clark,
Ross Dobson, Lydia France, Fran Warde, Jennifer Joyce, and others.
Everything is easy to prepare, and broken down into categories such as
"light bites and dips", tartlets and toasts, canapes, sticks and
skewers, breads and crackers, buffet dishes, sweet treats, and drinks
(which include crowd faves such as mulled wine, sangria, mulled cider,
and punches). It's one of two dozen books in the "Easy" series.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.

30. WHERE WOMEN COOK CELEBRATE! Extraordinary women & their signature
recipes (Lark, 2011, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-60059-898-2, $24.95 US hard
covers) is by Jo Packham, editor of "Where Women Cook" magazine. The
book profiles 28 women who share their passion for cooking and
entertaining, and there are about 50 preps. Most of the women are food
bloggers and/or authors/writers for magazines or newspapers. Here they
all write about festivities or large dinners. There's food for every
course, such as caramelized onion and gruyere tart, lemon pepper tea
biscuits, pumpkin donuts, or carrot orange soup. There's a biography
for each and some text on how and why they did the celebration, plus
most of the recipes. The rest of the recipes may be found at the
magazine's website www.wherewomencook.com; much of the material here
had been published in the magazine. Preparations have their ingredients
listed avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

31. SOUP; a kosher collection (Whitecap, 2004, 2011, 210 pages, ISBN
978-1-77050-062-4, $24.95 CAD paper covers) is by Pam Reiss, who joined
the family business in Winnipeg (Desserts Plus, a kosher catering
company). There's 150 kosher soup preps here, and for the 2011 revision
she has added 20 new soups, full-colour photos, and nutritional
information for every recipe. There's a full-range here, from Passover
to parve, dairy, fish, meat, fruit and dessert soups. As one reviewer
of the first edition said, everything here is both creative and easy.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.

32. EASY COCKTAILS; over 200 classic and contemporary recipes (Ryland,
Peters & Small, 2011, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-164-3, $19.95 US hard
covers) has enough preps to get your home bar started. Most of the
recipes come from Ben Reed, but Louise Pickford and Tonia George also
contribute. There's the basic primer on home bars, followed by separate
chapters on martinis, sparkling cocktails, smashes, sours, manhattans,
rum-based, highballs, shooters, and creamy cocktails. There's even a
short chapter on hangovers and mocktails. It's one of two dozen books
in the "Easy" series. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

33. PURCHASING; selection and procurement for the hospitality industry.
Eighth edition. (John Wiley, 2012, 688 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-29046-0,
$111.65 US hard covers) is by Andrew Hale Feinstein and John
Stefanelli, both academics teaching in American hospitality programs.
It was last published in 2008. It is a basic book, used as a text, and
on the desks of current Food and Beverage Managers. New to this edition
are the latest thoughts on green practices, sustainability, socially
responsible suppliers, buying locally, new technology, new products,
novel approaches to procurement, and new techniques for costing. There
are interviews which show the daily lives of workers doing typical
purchase decisions. There are exercises for students and practitioners
alike. Bibliographic references include websites and newer periodical
articles. Key words and concepts have been increased and revised. And
there are scores of new illustrations and photos. Quality/price rating:
91.

34. THE CALIFORNIA SEAFOOD COOKBOOK; a cook's guide to the fish and
shellfish of California, the Pacific coast and beyond (Skyhorse
Publishing, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-344-1,
$24.95 hard cover) is by the team of Isaac Cronin (a PR director), Paul
Johnson (owner of a fish company and chef), and Jay Harlow. All three
are also cookbook authors. It was first published in 1983, and sold
over 125,000 copies. It's encyclopedic in scope, covering some 75
species with about two recipes apiece on average (150 in all). About
half of the species are also in the Atlantic and Gulf waters, and each
recipe suggests alternative fish and shellfish from other regions, so
it is wider in scope than just "California". The titling was just an
unfortunate marketing practice. There's primer data on cooking methods
such as cleaning and shucking oysters, crabs, and the like. and some
wine notes. There's a colour illustration for each fish, and a
concluding bibliography. Print size is nicely large for these tired
eyes of mine. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.

35. COOKING VEGETARIAN; healthy, delicious, and easy vegetarian cuisine
(Wiley Publishing, 1998, 2011, 274 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-00762-4,
$26.95 soft covers) is by Chef Joseph Forest and Vesanto Melina, a
nutritionist who writes books. It was originally published with 40
fewer pages in 1998. It is an easy book to get into. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. There are updated
reference charts and guides to food, as well as and all-new book list
and added resources. The first 70 pages concern health benefits and
cooking techniques. The recipes cover all courses, and include their
take on ice cream (Vegan Dasz). Lots of menus and good sense here,
although it is actually a vegan book (no fish, eggs, dairy, honey).
Quality/price rating: 88.

36. 300 BEST POTATO RECIPES (Robert Rose, 2011, 448 pages, ISBN 978-0-
7788-0278-5, $24.95 CAD soft covers) is by Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh, a
well-known Canadian cookbook and food freelance writer, now based in
Bayfield, off Georgian Bay. It's a vastly updated and expanded version
of a 2002 book she did for Penguin, which had only 150 recipes for the
same price. She's said the Canadian-originated Yukon Gold potato was
the impetus for that book. A member of the belladonna family (tomatoes,
sweet peppers, eggplant, tobacco), the potato is a good source for
niacin, riboflavin, thiamin, essential minerals, and complex
carbohydrates. One 150 gram potato can supply half the RDA of Vitamin
C. It is probably everybody's favourite vegetable. Over 400 species of
white potatoes are in production (about 4000 have been catalogued). And
there are plenty of yellow, red, purple varieties, in all shapes and
sizes, all year long. And they are used in every conceivable way:
boiling, baking, roasting, steaming, frying, and mashing. The only
difference between most potatoes which appear at the market: some are
floury (best for baking and mashing) and some are waxy (best for
salads). She's got many sidebars of tips and advice. Her chapters are
arranged beginning with "classic" recipes (roast, mash, fried,
scalloped), and moving on to appetizers (potato focaccia, potato bread,
brandade), French potato galette, oyster pie, potato soup and pesto,
salads, grilled, souffles, stews, noodles, and a concluding section on
sweet potatoes which is mostly desserts but with some interesting
concoctions involving dry mashed white potatoes. But "classic salade
nicoise" has no place here: a classic nicoise uses only raw veggies.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/Price rating: 90.

37. THE GOOD COOKIE; over 250 delicious recipes, from simple to sublime
(John Wiley & Sons, 2002, 2011, 390 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-16954-4,
$22.99 US soft covers) is by Tish Boyle, cookbook author and food
editor at Chocolatier and Pastry Art & Design magazines. It was
originally published in 2002; here is the paperback reprint. There's
the usual primer on cookie dough and equipment. At the back, there is
an updated source list, with websites. Of particular value is the
series of "Cookies for Every Occasion", a listing by categories
(unfortunately without any page references, so you will have to look
them up yourself). So under the "Coffee Hour" there are almond anise
biscotti, almond java rounds, chocolate almond biscotti, chocolate
walnut bars, cinnamon dough nut holes, hazelnut biscotti, and toasted
almond crunch cookies. Other categories are "for kids", "picnic fare",
"ship well", "nuts about nuts", "holidays", "over-the-top chocolate"
and six morefor a total of thirteen. A good wide-ranging assortment of
cookies here. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.

38. HOME-GROWN HARVEST; delicious ways to enjoy your seasonal fruit and
vegetables (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-
149-0, $27.95 US) is a collection of some 150 recipes concentrating on
the bounty of any home-grown fruit or veggies that you may have.
Recipes come from the stable of the publisher's cookery writers such as
Fiona Beckett, Maxine Clark, Ross Dobson, Tonia George, and 19 others.
The arrangement is two or four to ma page, categorized by type: root
veggies, bulbs and stems, fruiting veggies, podding veggies, salad
greens, squash, mushrooms, tree fruits, and soft fruits. The
organization makes it a nice concept. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of
metric equivalents. Try flamiche (leeks), belladonna tart, pea and
parma ham crostini, squash and eggplant chutney, or summer crumble.
Quality/price rating: 87.

39. BREWED AWAKENING; behind the beers and brewers leading the world's
craft brewing revolution (Sterling Epicures, 2011, 292 pages, ISBN 978-
1-4027-7864-3, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Joshua M. Bernstein, a free
lance writer who writes beer articles for Imbibe magazine. Most of this
book comes from articles he had written for Imbibe, Others come from
his writings for the New York Press. It is loaded with stories about
craft beer makers, illustrated with a variety of pubs and labels. There
is also a number of different typefaces for the reader to enjoy, plus
material on food and beer pairings. He manages to cover super-bitters,
cask-conditioning, organic beers, gluten-free beers, high alcohol
beers, and the like. He also manages to cover limited production beers,
usually in lots of 800 or so bottles which sell out in an hour. There
are stories about lost recipes, back-to-the-land beers, and extreme
beers. But there is not a lot here on draught beers. Throughout the
book there are 150 craft beer reviews. At the back there's material on
craft beer weeks around the US, with three listed for Canada. There is
also a glossary and an index. Canada gets a few pages, principally
about Dieu du Ciel in Montreal. Quality/price rating: 85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 21, 2012

2012-01-18T11:40:00.001-05:00

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 21, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available
for re-tasting from another bottle.

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Kunde Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Sonoma Valley: zesty,
citric, good savvy MVC, not your typical Californian sauv blanc. 13.8%
ABV. +67363, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Wolf Blass Premium Selection Chardonnay 2007 South Australia: rich,
ripe, unctuous, 13.5% ABV, twist top. +394908, $19.95, QPR: 90.
3. I Campi Campo Vulcano Soave Classico 2009: rich melons, citric
finish, good lasting body. 12.5% ABV. +269969, $19.95, QPR: 89.

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. 13th Street Merlot 2010 VQA Niagara: loaded with flavour, no oak,
robust finish. 12.5% ABV. +270504, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Ridgepoint Merlot 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench: complex, chocolate,
good savoury finish. +270488, $17.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 California: a good example
of a US restaurant-ready wine, 13.8% ABV, sip or with food. +38034,
$19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Concha y Toro Serie Riberas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Marchigue: delicious it hits all the right and the high notes of
blackness (fruit, coffee, chocolate, fungi). At this price, buy it all.
No regrets, +256693, $14.95, QPR: 93.
5. Yabby Lake Cooralook Shiraz 2008 Heathcote Victoria: delicious
Rhonish complexity, affordable, 14.5% ABV. +262451, $18.95, QPR: 89.
6. Chateau de Treviac 2008 Corbieres: North American appeal, stylish
fruit of GSM-like, 14.5% ABV. With food or sip. +670505, $15.95, QPR:
89.
7. Spadina Una Viola Signature Syrah 2008 IGT Sicilia: god Rhonish
style wine, with North American fruit bomb appeal, 13.5% ABV. +17162,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Sassoregale Sangiovese 2009 IGT Maremma Toscana: tasty cherries,
baked aromas, jammy middle, to a savoured finish. 13.5% ABV. +251785,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
9. Bodegas Castano Reserva Pozuelo 2006 Yecia: very good blend, mostly
monastrell, 13.5% ABV, nicely aged. Ripe and juicy, although tones of
the 30% of the international blended grapes seem to dominate. +35485,
$14.95, QPR: 89.
10. Ignacio Marin Old Vine Garnacha 2008 Carinena: old vines dominate
the jammy flavours, nicely oaked, underbrush and forest floor. Gold
medalist. 13% ABV. +214205, $15.95, QPR: 90.
11. Menhir Salento Primitivo di Manduria 2007 Puglia: juicy, North
American appeal, especially for zinfandel lovers. 15=4% ABV. +268086,
$15.95, QPR: 89.

1. Mer Soleil Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2009 Santa Lucia Highlands,
+958975, $34.95 retail.
2. Faiveley Puligny Montrachet 2008, +241125, $51.95.
3. Torbreck Cuvee Juveniles 2009 Barossa, +723940, $29.95.
4. Chateau Le Castelot 2006 St. Emilion Grand Cru, +245472, $34.95.
5. Chateau Haut Selve Reserve 2006 Graves, +235424, $29.95.
6. Fontanafredda Reserva Barolo 2005, +967141, $49.95.
7. Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos 2009 Bierzo, +675207, $21.95.
8. Vina Herminia Reserva Tinto 2004 Rioja, +236927, $25.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

2012-01-17T20:13:00.000-05:00

12. TRULY MEXICAN (John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 264 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-
49955-9, $35 US hard covers) is by Roberto Santibanez, a well-known
Mexican chef-owner of many restaurants. He was culinary director of
Rosa Mexicano restaurants, and of Fonda San Miguel. Currently, he runs
a consultant firm, Truly Mexican. Here, in this book, he is assisted by
J.J. Goode, with Shelley Wiseman as the recipe developer. He is
concentrating on salsas, guacamoles, adobos, moles and pipanes. All
these sauces and their types can be applied to most foods; hence, you
can some up with a great Mexican meal by profiling the sauce. At the
end, there is a small section on foods to round out the meal, such as
some bean preps, Mexican white or red or green rice, mushrooms and
zucchini. Try pasilla and apple mole, lamb shanks braised in parchment,
adobo ribs, seafood guacamole, or grilled adobo-marinated skirt steak.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.

13. DOS CAMINOS MEXICAN STREET FOOD; 120 authentic recipes to make at
home (SkyHorse Publishing, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 282 pages, ISBN 978-
1-61608-279-6, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Ivy Stark, chef at New
York's Dos Caminos. Joanna Pruess is the focusing food writer. There is
also some log rolling on the back cover. Street food needs sauces, so
Stark opens with a chapter on 12 of them. This is followed by some
breakfast food, such as egg dishes, pancakes, biscuits and the like.
Vegetables and fruits include street salads as well as pickled red
cabbage. There is an assortment of fish, shellfish, beef, pork, and
game. Desserts and beverages are also included. This is much more than
just street food; it can be family or peasant food as well. Still,
preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

14.SPILLING THE BEANS; cooking and baking with beans and grains
everyday (Whitecap, 2011, 268 pages, ISBN 9789-1-77050-041-9, $29.95
CAD paper covers) is by Julie Van Rosendaal, a CBC radio host and co-
host of TV's "It's Just Food". As well, she edits "Parents Canada"
magazine, and runs a food blog dinnerwithjulie.com. Her co-author is
Sue Duncan. The book is about beans, legumes, and whole grains,
emphasizing their low-fat, high-protein, cholesterol-free, and high-
fibre nature. They begin with "Beans for Breakfast" (such as buttermilk
waffles with bean puree), apps, salads, sandwiches, soups and stews,
one pots, pasta, sides, and desserts (pumpkin chocolate chip loaf
cake). It's not a meatless book, which means that there is room for a
lamb shank or two as well as sliders. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

15. FRESH; new vegetarian and vegan recipes from Fresh restaurants
(Wiley Publications, 2011, 198 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-67796-4, $29.95
CAD soft covers) is by Jennifer Houston and Ruth Tal, co-owners of
Fresh restaurants. Here are 200 preps, most drawn from three previous
books (Refresh in 2007, Fresh at Home in 2004, and Juice for Life in
2000) with new material added and updated thoughts on nutrition. The
2007 book was vegan; the current book is both vegetarian and vegan.
Most of the preps are off their menus, so there is some familiarity
here for their fans and regulars. There are apps, soups, salads,
sandwiches and wraps, some entrees (mainly rice bowls), sauces and
dressings, sweets, juices, smoothies and the like (about 50 pages for
these drinks). The recipes here are what are currently being served at
the restaurant; hence, the mushroom pizza is gone (it used to be one of
my faves and the fave of my server). Typical dishes include a detox
cocktail, grounding greens bowl, kale and oyster mushroom salad, and
Portobello pesto sandwich. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.

16. PAULA DEEN'S SOUTHERN COOKING BIBLE; the classic guide to delicious
dishes, with more than 300 recipes (Simon & Schuster, 2011, 455 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4165-6407-2, $29.99 US hard covers) is a very convenient
book. It encapsulates all the basic and classic southern US food lore,
and makes it easy to prep at any home in North America. Deen, a best-
selling cookbook author, Food Network personality, caterer and
restaurant owner, magazine publisher (Cooking with Paula Deen), is the
one to summarize such US cooking. Here she is assisted by Melissa
Clark, a magazine food writer who has also written about three dozen
cookbooks. You can call the book a summation. The Low Country of the
Carolinas gets prominence, but there's also room for Cajun, lots of
corn, Afro-American foods: biscuits and gravy, she-crab soup,
jambalaya, chicken with drop dumplings. And you can't get more southern
than boiled dressing. Arrangement is by course, from apps to sweets.
Tips and advice abound. 80% of the 325 recipes are new to this book.
There are some illustrations of techniques. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

17. EVERYDAY EXOTIC; the cookbook (Whitecap, 2011, 184 pages, ISBN 978-
1-77050-064-8, $29.95 CAD soft covers) is by Roger Mooking and Allan
Magee. It is named after the Food Network TV show of the same title.
The preps are collected from the show's 52 episodes, about one per
show. The secret, of course, is to punch up the herbs and spices (not
the heat). So the lamb burgers have five spices, as does the mayo. The
meatloaf has coriander, and the pesto has cilantro. The mac and cheese
has curry. Even the macaroons had added pistachios. The show is
interesting and it works with the multiplicity of fusion flavours. Just
make sure that you have a good pantry and the spices/herbs are fresh.
Arrangement of the book is by ingredient and/or course. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.

18. THE BEEKMAN 1802 HEIRLOOM COOKBOOK (Sterling Epicure, 2011, 176
pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-8709-6, $25 US hard covers) is by Brent Ridge
and Josh Kilmer-Purcell, founders of Beekman 1802, a major lifestyle
brand in the US. They've written books about early farm life and have
appeared on Planet Green TV and other places. Here, they are assisted
by Sandy Gluck, a cookbook author and also host of a Sirius Satellite
food show. From their historic farm in upper New York state, the
authors do their natural goat milk soaps and Blaak cheese. The book has
been collated from preps of their farm, family, and friends. It is not
necessarily about 1802 food. It is tied into the seasons, and there is
room for your own recipes via blank note space for personal annotation.
There are also many variations. It's pretty simple but nouirish food,
such as winter vegetable soup, mini ham and cheese biscuits, sweet
potato pie, spinach salad, stewed green beans, and the like. But there
are too many gratuitous pictures of the boys and the farm. This space
could have been devoted to more preps. There are about 100 recipes plus
variations. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 82,

19. SALSAS OF THE WORLD (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-
2208-6, $19.99 US paper covers) is by celebrity chef Mark Miller of the
Coyote Café in Santa Fe. He's also written nine other cookbooks which
have soled about one million copies. Here he is assisted by Robert
Quintana, a food consultant-caterer also living in Santa Fe. These are
sauces from a dozen countries, including (of course) Mexico. There are
100 recipes here, ranging from quick to challenging, mild to hot, and
plain to smoky. It's all arranged by type, from easy to classic chili,
tropical, smoky, fresh salsas, hot, fruity salsa, and sour. Every
single one is delicious, beginning with artichoke fennel provencal
right through to the salsa de bruja. China, France, Peru, Morocco,
Italy they all have some action here. Heat levels are indicated.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.

20. CAKE LADIES; celebrating a Southern tradition (Lark, 2011, 143
pages, ISBN 978-1-60059-789-3, $19.95 US paper) is by Jodi Rhoden, who
owns Short Sweet Cakes bakery, is a cookbook author, and is a member of
The Southern Foodways Alliance. Here she has a project similar to
"Where Women Cook Celebrate", reviewed below. She's written profiles of
some 17 diverse southern US women, delving into their cake food lives.
Every town has some kind of a cake lady, a go-to person for community
celebration. There are 21 recipes too, such as a ten-layer chocolate
cake, a lemon cheese layer cake or applesauce spice cake. There are
even vegan red velvet cupcakes and a dirty cake. There are a lot of
tips, stories and kitchen wisdom here. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of
metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

21. HOME COOKING WITH JEAN-GEORGES (Clarkson Potter, 2011, 256 pages,
ISBN 978-0-307-71795-5, $40 US hard covers) is the fourth book by Jean-
Georges Vongerichten; he's the chef-owner of dozens of restaurants in
14 cities around the world. He's assisted by Genevieve Ko, a cookbook
author and senior food editor at Good Housekeeping. This is French-
style cooking with Asian accents. There are 100 preps here, all fully
plated and photographed. This is the stuff he cooks at home. Even so,
it needs a pantry for basic items. The arrangement is by course (apps,
salad, lunch, brunch, desserts) and by major ingredient (fish, poultry,
meat, sides). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Try candied
paprika pecans, quinoa with spinach and goat cheese, sausage and kale
pizza, pork chops with cherry mustard, braised endive with ham and
gruyere, or honeyed pear clafoutis tart. Quality/price rating: 88.

22. ROBIN TAKES 5 (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2011; distr. Simon &
Schuster, 402 pages, ISBN 978-1-4494-0845-9, $29.99 US soft covers) is
by Robin Miller, author of nine cookbooks and host of "Quick Fox Meals"
on the Food Network and blogger for the FN. There's some good log
rolling endorsements. The "5" comes as part of every prep: each recipe
has 5 ingredients of less, 500 calories or less per serving, good for 5
nights a week at 5PM for early family dining. Oh, yes, there are also
500 recipes here. This is top-notch family dining for the harried home
cook, arranged by course or main ingredient. So for chicken, there is a
separate chapter sub-divided into regional styles. You can have chicken
southwest US, Asian, French, Italian, Mediterranean, tropical, or basic
American, even with eight turkey recipes (tenderloin or breast or
burgers). There's also nutritional data for each serving. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH -- Flavours of Prince Edward Island

2012-01-15T17:45:00.001-05:00

FLAVOURS OF PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND; a culinary journey (Whitecap,
2010, 260 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-009-9, $39.95 CAD soft covers) is by
the culinary team of Jeff McCourt, Allan Williams, and Austin Clement,
all chefs associated with either the Culinary Institute of Canada or
the PEI Association of Chefs and Cooks (or even both). It is a tribute
to the food of PEI, and won the major Gold award at the Cuisine Canada
Culinary Book Awards 2011 in the English Canadian Culinary Culture
category. Recipes come from all over the island, and photography is by
James Ingram. Chapters are arranged by ingredient. Clement, for
example, takes on clams, beef, pork, potatoes and cheese, while the
others handle mussels, oysters, lobsters, tuna, apples, blueberries,
cranberries, and mushrooms. There is even a chapter on wine and
spirits; Rossignol Winery is well-known for its fruit wines. Each
chapter tells you what and when to buy or how to forage. You can
recreate a typical PEI meal at home. The book is oversized, which makes
it terrific for leading and spaces. The large fonts are easy on the
eyes, and the paperback make it easy for a table layout. Usually,
though, with a posh "coffee table" type book like this, I make
photocopies of the recipes I'd be trying out. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: armchair travelers, PEI Canadian cuisine
lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: haddock seafood chowder;
grilled halibut with summer salsa; ham rapure; herb and potato-crusted
oysters; hearty braised pork; maple and cider-glazed braised pork
belly.
The downside to this book: it is such a lovely book, I wish it could
have been done up as a hard case-bound book.
The upside to this book:
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH -- Unquenchable

2012-01-14T21:00:00.001-05:00

UNQUENCHABLE; a tipsy quest for the world's best bargain wines
(Doubleday Canada, 2011, 357 pages, ISBN 978-0-385-66848-4, $29.95 CAD
hard covers) is by ubiquitous Natalie MacLean, author of the award-
winning bestseller "Red, White and Drunk All Over" and a colleague of
mine within the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada. There's some log
rolling from Kermit Lynch and Francis Mayes. It's an honest book,
seeking honest answers to the best wines in the world at bargain
prices. She's traveled around Niagara, Germany, Australia, Italy, South
Africa, Argentina, Portugal and France (eight regions in all) in search
of values. In each, she visited 30 to 40 wineries, and tasted a range
of wine in all of them. But as she's said countless times over, the
best wine depends on what you are eating, with whom, and what the
occasion is. A lot of the book is tied into her website. You can go to
www.nataliemaclean.com and do wine-picking with her top-value choices
(which include tasting notes, scores, bottle shots, and food matches).
There are also website addresses, contact information, pictures,
recipes for the dishes she recommends, landscape photos, discussion
points for book clubs, and the like. This is good integration with the
convergence of static print and electronic websites. So: to cheat a
bit, I'll list her recommendations for Australia choose from Wolf
Blass, Penfolds and Henschke. From Argentina choose from Catena,
Norton, and Zuccardi. You cannot go wrong with any of their wines
priced around $15 and up. All of her wine writing is sensible and
conversational, so I'm still not sure why the quest has to be "tipsy"
or why the illustration on the dust jacket has to be as it is.
Audience and level of use: wine drinkers and wine readers, those
looking for bargain wines.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Most people believe that they can
taste the difference between a wine priced at $5 and one at $50.It
gets trickier when the difference is between $15 and $30Rich, layered
experiences hold our attention."
The downside to this book: call me old-fashioned, but as I said in my
review of Red White and Drunk All Over, I just don't like the idea of
linking wine writing with overindulging. It makes light of a serious
subject, for we wine writers all expectorate when tasting. But then,
those feelings are just me. I may be wrong.
The upside to this book: I like the lists at the end of each chapter,
the field notes. Hey, and I just bought some clothes at Guy's Frenchys
in August!
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Some interesting new cookbooks --

2012-01-14T20:56:00.001-05:00

MAKE THE BREAD, BUY THE BUTTER (Free Press, 2011; distr. Simon and
Schuster, 296 pages, ISBN 978-1-4516-0587-7, $27.99 US hard covers) is
by Jennifer Reese, a former book critic for Entertainment Weekly and
now teaches cooking classes. She deals with the issues of food
processing, natural foods, and agricultural processing all important
topics. She makes the case that you don't have to make everything from
scratch, but you do need to be careful about what you buy. You should
be able to make your own pancakes, chocolate cake, guacamole, eggs
benedict, hummus, cured meats, braised beef, and bagels. It is always
cheaper, you spend less money, to make your own. You could also, with a
bit more time, make your own pasta, chocolates, graham crackers,
applesauce, mayonnaise, tortillas, and roasted chicken. But it pays (at
least in time) to buy baguettes, sashimi, burritos, English muffins,
and other items. Read the book to find out why. Certainly, you'll need
to make your own croissants! Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Each of the 120 recipes gets a slight cost-benefit
analysis.
Audience and level of use: home cooks
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: everyday bread; rye bread;
yogurt; croissants; duck egg ravioli; orange-apricot preserve.
The downside to this book: with just a little more effort and
appreciation from the home front, home cooks could be making more
recipes than Reese proposes.
The upside to this book: nice idea.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

4. HOW TO MAKE BREAD; step-by-step recipes for yeasted breads,
sourdoughs, soda breads and pastries (Ryland, Peters & Paul, 2011, 176
pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-140-7, $27.95 US hard covers) is by Emmanuel
Hadjiandreou, who learned his craft in a German bakery and then went to
work for Gordon Ramsay. He's an award-winner, currently teaching bread-
making in the UK. It's a typical technique book, outlining more than 60
varieties of artisanal bread. Wheat-free and gluten-free preps are also
included in their own chapter. Recipes scaled, for weight: preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. The photos
are stunning all breads look so natural and rustic, chewable.
Audience and level of use: breadmakers looking for new breads.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: wholegrain fruit soda bread;
multi-grain seeded bread; ciabatta; pecan raisin bread; tsoureki;
Armenian flatbreads; polenta sourdough.
The downside to this book: not only is the typeface for the index
small, but the print is on grey-brown paper stock, making it
exceedingly difficult to read.
The upside to this book: there's a gluten-free bread prep with two
variations and a gluten-free corn bread.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

5. SEE MIX DRINK; a refreshingly simple guide to crafting the world's
most popular cocktails (Little, Brown and Company, 2011, 232 pages,
ISBN 978-0-316-17671-2, $14.99 US hard covers) is by Brian D. Murphy, a
designer and banker. It's an introductory look, with large
illustrations and drawings. For example, the Negroni has a layered
glass with vermouth, Campari and gin colours and signs. There is a
calorie counter (189) to go along with proportions. There's a short
history on the name, plus a photo of the finished drink. It is really
quite simple, and works well, especially if you cannot read (or have
had too much to drink). At two pages for every drink, there's only
enough room for the basic 100 classics.
Audience and level of use: those who only want to learn the basics.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the index has a sort by name
and by calories per drink. The lowest is Black Velvet at 96, the
highest is Long Island Iced Tea at 446 calories.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

6. 365 WAYS TO COOK (Firefly, 2011, 255 pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-916-2,
$19.95 CAD soft covers) is by Eleanor Maxfield, who also was the
general editor for "1000 Recipes for Simple Family Food". Here she
turns her attention to dinners, with delicious foods that can be
customized. As the books says, choose a basic ingredient and follow
symbols throughout to find a recipe that works for you. Some of the
symbols indicate budget, stuff that kids like, entertaining friends at
dinner, weight loss, inspiration, leftovers for lunch the next day,
time saving, spicing up, and others about 10 in all. The seven
chapters cover poultry, meat, fish, vegetables, pizza and noodles, rice
and grains, and desserts. There is an illustrated table of contents to
make it easy to select a dish. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: there is a basic lemongrass
shrimp skewers, followed by a spiced up noodles with shrimp and bok
choy, followed by a time saving shrimp and zucchini linguine, a budget
shrimp and pea risotto, a kids special of shrimp and mango kebabs, a
left over soup with shrimp, shrimp and coconut rice for entertaining,
and more.
The downside to this book: I wish there were more preps because
The upside to this book: this is a pretty good idea for a book.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

7. HOME CANNING AND PRESERVING; putting up small batch jams, jellies,
pickles, chutneys, relishes and more (SkyHorse Publishing, 2011, 202
pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-355-7, $19.95 US spiral bound book) is by Janet
Cooper, who has taught home canning. It's a basic book for making
preserves all year round. The emphasis is on "small batch", which is a
bit more labour intensive but produces more variety. There are over 100
preps here. She also has a number of herb and spice blends, plus honeys
and tea blends. Certainly, there is something here for everybody.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home canners
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fig jam, six-fruit chutney,
green tomato relish, fruited mincemeat.
The downside to this book: spiral-bound, which while useful is also
subject to vandalism in libraries and book stores.
The upside to this book: the spiral-binding makes the book lie flat.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

8. CULINARY CAREERS FOR DUMMIES (John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 368 pages,
ISBN 978-1-118-07774-0, $22.99 US paper covers) is by the team of
Michele Thomas (International Culinary Institute), Annette Tomaei (food
and wine consultant), and Tracey Vasil Biscontini (head of Northeast
Editing Inc.). It's another in the career sub-series of the Dummy
guides. Its cast is American, but there is a fair bit of similarity
between the two countries so far as the hospitality trade goes, with
some variances in legislation and regulation. Preliminary pages work on
the differences between culinary schools and on-the-job training; the
better schools offer apprenticeships, as most do in Canada. There are
sections on working environments: hotels, restaurants, resorts, spas,
catering firms. There is also the specialized approach (poissonnier,
pastry chefs, personal chefs, recipe developers, scientists,
sommeliers) and non-cooking careers such as PR work and marketing.
Audience and level of use: career changers, new students in the
hospitality trade.
The downside to this book: needs more attention to Canada.
The upside to this book: top ten reasons to work in the culinary
industry, and top ten tips on gaining employment.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

9. COOKIES at Home with the Culinary Institute of America (John Wiley &
Sons, 2011, 218 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-41227-5, $34.99 US hard covers)
is by Todd Knaster, who developed all the recipes in this book for the
CIA. It's one of the new series for the CIA: some "at home" books for
the home chef which are not as detailed or as large in quantities as
for professional kitchens. So there is primer data on basic baking
equipment, ingredients, methods, décor and packaging. This is followed
by specific chapters on drop cookies, bars, rolled and sliced cookies,
molded and shaped cookies, piped, twice-baked, and savoury cookies.
There's a glossary and a resources list, and a template for a
gingerbread house. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Good pictures for techniques.
Audience and level of use: home bakers
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: black and white cookies;
milk chocolate peanut butter s'mores bars; hamantaschen; French
macaroons; Italian taralles; butterscotch cookies.
The downside to this book: no gluten-free preps.
The upside to this book: good looking photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

10. THE FARMER'S COOKBOOK; a back to basics guide to making cheese,
curing meat, preserving produce, baking bread, fermenting, and more
(SkyHorse Publishing, 2011, 445 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-9, $24.95 US
hard covers) is by Marie W. Lawrence, a third generation Vermonter with
strong New England roots. Her book is about farmhouse cooking, showing
how the urban settler can do his own food instead of buying it
processed. There have been several similar books of late, and I can
only applaud them all. If you cannot grow it, try a local farmer's
market to get fresh food. This current book is organized by month to
correspond with a farmer's calendar in New England, and it covers the
gamut of food choices and availability. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. There are two pages of "weights and measures"
but these are all insularly American we need some metric help for
sales of the book outside of the USA. A substitutions chart here is
very useful.
Audience and level of use: home cooks who need help beyond store
processing.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roast duck with autumn berry
sauce; veggie tempura; sopapillas with strawberry apple dipping sauce;
Scandinavian mushroom turnovers; Vermont cheddar onion bread.
The downside to this book: while the food is hearty and substantial, it
would have been useful to have some spicy food now and again. Herbs and
black pepper are widely used, but not international spices.
The upside to this book: there's a recipe index by month in addition to
a general recipe index.
Quality/Price Rating: 88

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! -- from Reaktion Books

2012-01-09T12:18:00.001-05:00

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH!

2. APPLE; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2011, 132 pages, ISBN 978-
1-86189-848-7, $17 US hard covers) is by Erika Janik, a freelance
writer and producer at Wisconsin Public Radio.

BREAD; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2011, 160 pages, ISBN 978-
1-86189-854-8, $18 US hard covers) is by William Rubel, a freelance
food historian.

CHAMPAGNE; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2011, 136 pages, ISBN 978-
1-86189-857-9, $17 US hard covers) is by Becky Sue Epstein, a
journalist writing about food, wine and travel.

OLIVE; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2011, 124 pages, ISBN 978-1-
86189-868-5, $17 US hard covers) is by Fabrizia Lanza, a food scholar
and owner of a Sicilian cooking school.

These books are all part of the Edible Series; they now number some 20
books in a uniform format. Edible is a great series, offering
fingernail profiles and engaging memoirs of foods. You don't need to
collect them all: if you hate olives (as does a friend of mine), then
just avoid that book. They've all got some traditional history,
cultural history, food history, and some travel/geography notes. Each
volume has a selection of recipes (with both metric and avoirdupois
measurements), end notes, bibliography, and a listing of websites and
associations. There are also terrific full-colour photos and an index.

"Apple" is everywhere in food lore and history, and Janik includes the
development of cider in her account. While there are thousands of
varieties (and many which are now lost), just 20 types make up 90 per
cent of all the apples eaten in the world.

"Bread" is 160 pages, but it was announced at 224. I don't know what
was left out, but it appears that one-quarter of it was left on the
editor's desk. It should have been a longer book since bread is a
basic, essential food product, a staple of both the rich and the poor.
It has been around since before agriculture, may be 25,000 years ago.
But not covered is the rise of gluten-free flours.

"Champagne" of course emphasizes the wines of one French region, but it
does go to pains to distinguish between sparkling wines and Champagnes.
Most of the book deals with history and celebratory customs. Reference
material here also includes non-Champagne sparklers.

"Olive" is a comprehensive book about the Mediterranean, where the
olive grove pervades culture, history and food. There are also short
sections on the olive outside this region and on the Mediterranean
diet.

Audience and level of use: culinary historians, food lovers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Apples came from the mountains of
Kazakhstan. Sparkling wines have an affinity with monks. Olive paste is
a very early use of olives as food.
The downside to this book: as with any profile, occasionally one may
wish for more detail about certain points.
The upside to this book: good, nifty self-contained books.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 7, 2012

2012-01-03T11:43:00.001-05:00

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 7, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available
for re-tasting from another bottle.

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calamus Cosmic White 2009 VQA Niagara: here is the latest Ontario
white blend, with riesling, chardonnay, and gewurztraminer. Off-dry and
balanced. 12.4% ABV. +255893, $14.95, QPR: 89.
2. Hinterbrook Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara Lakeshore: semi-dry, very rich
tropicality, better as a sipper. 12.4% ABV. Gold Medal All Canadian
Wine Championship. +270512, $17.95, QPR: 89.
3. Konzelmann Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009 VQA Niagara: more a sipper,
aged nicely. California style, with body, grass, some veggie tones.
13.5% BV. +257790, $12.95, QPR: 89.
4. Sue-Ann Staff Semi-Dry Riesling 2008 VQA Niagara: German mode, more
off-dry than semi-dry with balancing acid, 10% ABV. +258632, $14.95,
QPR: 89.
5. Stellar Running Duck Fair Trade Organic Chardonnay 2010 WO Western
Cape: rounded, oak tones, vanilla. Good body, long food finish. 13%
ABV. Great price. +149856, $12.95, QPR: 91.
6. Mont'Abano Pinot Grigio 2010 Friuli Grave: tasty, some body, citric
and flowers in finish. +249532, $16.95, QPR: 89.

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Coyote's Run Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Niagara: strong burgundian
character, m & m's (mocha and mushrooms), some underbrush. 13% ABV.
+53090, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2009 Padthaway: delicious shiraz components,
oaky black fruit, 14.5% ABV. Top medalist winner. +673897, $16.95, QPR:
90.
3. Small Gully The Formula Robert's Shiraz 2006 South Australia: the
juicy mocha sings here, tasty, depth, 15.9% ABV. Twist top. +142935,
17.95, QPR: 90
4. Chateau Tour Bicheau 2008 Graves: very god presence and value,
cassis and tones of age, good price. +226092, $17.95, QPR: 89.
5. Perrin & Fils Peyre Blanche Cairanne Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009: a
stylish southern Rhone, lots of black fruit, length and depth, 14% ABV.
+650960, $7.95, QPR: 89.
6. Rivera Cappellaccio Riserva Aglianico 2005 Castel del Monte Puglia:
deliciously well-aged, meaty, herby, and with great fruit showing.
+984120, $18.95, QPR: 90.
7. Conte Contini Bonacossi Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2008:
chianti-style with allowable cabernet sauvignon, an affordable food
wine, 13.5% ABV. +508531, $15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Campina de Toro Sabor Real 2008 Toro: a delicious food wine, crafted
from 70 year old Tempranillo vines. 14.5% ABV. +172932, $15.95, QPR:
89.

1. Laguna Ranch Chardonnay 2008 Russian River Valley, +544981, $32.95
retail.
2. Domaine Carrette Chardonnay Pouilly-Fuisse 2009, +264481, $21.95.
3. Domaine Bonard Sancerre 2009, +140525, $21.95.
4. Red Mountain Fall Line Artz Vineyard Red 2007 Washington State,
+237735, $36.95.
5. Chateau de Lamarque 2006 Haut-Medoc, +194159, $29.95.
6. Domaine du Grand Montmirail Vacqueyras 2009, +251579, $24.95.
7. La Pieve Barolo 2007, +213132, $28.95.
8. Rosewood Merlot 2009 VQA Niagara Escarpment, +211896, $21.95.
9. Domaine Machard de Gramont Pommard Clos Blanc 1er Cru 2008, +189779,
$43.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH -- TEA

2012-01-02T16:38:00.001-05:00

TEA; history, terroirs, varieties (Firefly Books, 2011, 270 pages,
ISBN 978-1-55407-937-7, $24.95 CAD paper covers) is a heavily
illustrated compendium on non-herbal tea, rich in anti-oxidants and
with proven medical benefits. It was originally published in French in
Quebec in 2009, and here is translated into English. The four writers
of this book own The Camellia Sinensis Tea House in Montreal and work
as tasters, traveling the world looking for teas. Jonathan Racine who
works for the Tea House did the editorial work. Topics include a primer
on tea, varieties, processing, cultivars, making-serving-tasting tea,
tea ceremonies, and tea in cooking (with 15 recipes by Quebecois
chefs). Reference material includes a bibliography, scientific tables
for the biochemical properties of 35 teas, and a directory of teas.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Throughout the book, there are profiles of tea growers.
Audience and level of use: travelers, tea lovers, food reference book
collectors.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The source of all non-herbal
teas is the plant Camellia sinensis, which is processed three different
ways to produce the major classes (black, green, oolong, white, yellow,
Pu er, scented and smoked. Terroir imparts unique character to a tea.
The downside to this book: nothing, really it is a very comprehensive
book.
The upside to this book: great pictures and layout.
Quality/Price Rating: 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

2012-01-01T16:33:00.001-05:00

18. APPLE PIE; 100 delicious and decidedly different recipes for
America's favorite pie. (Harvard Common Press, 2002, 2011; distr. T.
Allen, 250 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-742-9, $14.95 US paper covers) is by
Ken Haedrich, a food and travel writer and the author of at least eight
cookbooks. This book, devoted to Apple Pie, was first published in 2002
as "Apple Pie Perfect". Here, it is in paperback reprint form, with new
endorsements and log rolling. And I suppose you could use pears in a
pinch. He opens with a primer on types of apples and types of pastries
(double crusts, cream cheese, wheat oil, graham cracker, etc.). Then
there are pies broken down by seasons, applesauce pies, special
occasion pies, cream pies, plus some for kids to work on and some quick
and easy. Theirs is something here for everyone, and if you love
apples, this is the book for you. Try southern apple pie with pecan
syrup, honeyed apple pear pie in a rosemary semolina crust, sugarless
apple pie, sour cream supple crumb pie, or apple pie frangipane.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. Good layout, large print.
Quality/price rating: 89.

19. GREAT CHEFS COOK VEGAN (Gibbs Smith, 2011; distr. Raincoast, 272
pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-2327-4, $24.99 US paper covers) has been pulled
together by Linda Long, who has been a vegan for the past 30 years. She
writes on food and nutritional topics. Log rolling comes from Charlie
Trotter, which is surprising since he is also one of the contributing
chefs. This is a collection of recipes from 25 chefs, who also include
Cat Cora (Iron Chef), Daniel Boulud, Marcus Samuelsson, Thomas Keller,
and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The book is a straight paperback reprint
of the 2008 edition. Vegan food, such as whole grains, vegetables,
fruits and beans, are low in fat, contain no cholesterol, and are rich
in fibre and nutrients. Here, each chef has contributed a menu of three
or four courses. The book is arranged by chef's first name, which is
standard in many restos: you have Chef Alex, Chef Floyd, Chef Suzanne,
etc. Just about all of these chefs are NOT totally vegan; they also
cook meats and dairy. But the conception is useful for selling the
book, and the preps are indeed tasty. Each chef gets about 10 pages.
There is a pix, a textual description of the chef's life, and then the
recipes. For Chef Anne (Quatrano), we learn that she is at a top
Atlanta resto, Baccanalia. She contributes a bruschetta with avocado
and tomato, crispy fried okra and chiles, summer vegetable pilaf, and
cantaloupe truffle bar. This book can also be used by non-vegans
looking for something that is light and delicious. Avoirdupois
measurements are listed, but there are also conversion tables.
Quality/Price rating: 87.

20. TOMATOES & MOZZARELLA; 100 ways to enjoy this tantalizing twosome
all year long (Harvard Common Press, 2006, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 176
pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-740-5, $14.95 US paper covers) is by Hallie
Harron, a professional chef, and Shelley Sikora, co-owner of the Bobby
McGee restaurant chain in Phoenix. It's a paperback reprint of the 2006
book, and it comes with new endorsements. The book is a narrow
construction of single ingredient food, here tomatoes and mozzarella.
After a primer on tomatoes and mozzarella (including how to make your
own mozzarella [you will need some mozzarella curd]}, the arrangement
proceeds by course, beginning with breakfast, brunch, finger foods and
first clou8rses, salads, soups, sandwiches, tea-times, pasta pomodori,
and some mains. There's savory roasted tomato crumble, corn waffles
with mozzarella and summer salsa, grilled bruschetta, fennel salad with
mozzarella and tomatoes, tian of eggplant and tomatoes, slow-roasted
smoked mozzarella and vegetable casserole, and stuffed porchetta with
chunky olive and tomato relish. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

21. THE AMERICAN COCKTAIL; 50 recipes that celebrate the craft of
missing drinks from coast to coast (Chronicle Books, 2011, 144 pages,
ISBN 978-0-8118-7799-2, $19.95 US hard covers) is from Imbibe magazine,
an award-winning magazine based in Portland, Oregon. These recipes
appeared in roughly the same form on their pages. The arrangement is by
locale, and includes the South, the Northeast, Midwest, West, and West
Coast. These are preps that have some regional meaning, such as Big Bay
Storm (Campari and rum) from North Carolina. There are standards such
as Tom and Jerry from a Milwaukee bar. Each prep has an explanation for
its name, a recipe, a source, a list of equipment, including glass
required and garnish. Extremely useful for Americana. Quality/price
rating: 90.

22. AROUND THE TABLE; easy menus for cozy entertaining at home (Harvard
Common Press, 2003, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 222 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-
741-2, $18.95 US paper covers) is by Ellen Wright, a writer and
interior designer. It's a paperback reprint of the 2003 book, with
fresh log rolling. Menu book are always useful for ideas, even if you
are locked in to certain functions. Her book is divided into cold
weather menus and warm weather menus, with several on the cusp. There's
one for watching TV, another for a birthday, cooking gifts, New Year's
Eve, Super Bowl (can this be transferred to the Grey Cup?), fireside,
last-minute dinners with friends, weekend guests, and many more two
dozen in all. It is also a personal book since menus have stories and
memoirs behind them. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 86.

23. THE MODERN BAKER; time-saving techniques for breads, tarts, pies,
cakes and cookies (DK Publishing, 2008, 2011, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-
7566-8914-8, $22.95 US, paper covers) is by Nick Malgieri, an award-
winning cookbook author whose recipes have also been widely published
in the USA. The book is oversized and overweight, which makes it
awkward in the kitchen. There are 150 recipes with about 200 full-
colour photos, which is a DK specialty. Most recipes require less than
an hour; they are all classic or contemporary, and include the usual of
breads, tarts (sweet and savoury), cakes, cookies, biscotti, and puff
pastries. Most of the recipes have some sort of variation indicated.
And most have avoirdupois volume measurements, with very little scaling
indicated. There is a bibliography, but the entire food resources list
is US. Try some smoked salmon mill-feuilles; fennel, fig and almond
bread; whole wheat currant bread; jalapeno cornbread; pecorino and
pepper biscuits; corn pudding tart. But the list of ingredients is in
tiny type, hard to read. I had to use an enlargement from my
photocopier. Quality/Price Rating: 84.

24. THE ART OF EATING COOKBOOK; essential recipes from the first 25
years (University of California Pr., 2011, 279 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-
27029-9, $39.95 US hard covers) has been compiled by Edward Behr,
publisher and chief writer of The Art of Eating, a magazine devoted to
fine foods. Notable log rollers include Judy Rodgers (Zuni), Paul
Bertolli (once of Chez Panisse), Wolfgang Puck, and three others. It`s
a collection of some 150 recipes plus variations, covering the whole
range of apps to desserts. Apps include breads, dips and charcuterie.
Along the way there are cheese and egg dishes, pasta and polenta, snail
and rabbit, as well as the usual meat, poultry, veggies, and salads.
Each prep has been meticulously researched and commented upon, and just
about all of them come from the magazine. They are mostly traditional
dishes, centering on classical French and Italian dishes. Some of the
preps come from James MacGuire, a writer-chef now living in Montreal.
Each recipe has extensive cooks' notes. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of metric equivalents. There's cervelle de canut,
oeufs en meurette, salade frisee, insalata di arance, pesto trapanese,
lapin a la Kriek, pigeonneaux aux olives, and cherries in Barolo.
Quality/price rating: 89.

25. PIE; 300 tried-and-true recipes for delicious homemade pie (Harvard
Common Press, 2004, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 639 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-
254-7, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Ken Haedrich, a food and travel
writer and the author of at least eight cookbooks. This book, devoted
to Pie, was first published in 2004. Here, it is in paperback reprint
form, with new endorsements and log rolling. His earlier book (see
above) on Apple Pie contained 100 apple recipes; this one has 34, but
with minimal duplication. There's an extensive primer on how to do the
perfect pie, with plenty of cook's notes for individual preps. There's
a chapter on summer pies for fruits and berries, another on fall pies
with apple, cranberry, pear, pumpkin and others, and a third chapter on
nut pies. There's a section on sweet and rich (custards and chess
pies), another on icebox pies and freezer pies, plus one on "personal
pies" and turnovers. Something for everybody, with lots of ideas. There
are also large typefaces and plenty of leading. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of
metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

26. THE ITALIAN COUNTRY TABLE; simple recipes for trattoria classics
(Ryland Peters and Small, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-
84975-157-5, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Maxine Clark, a long-time UK
cookbook author for this publisher, She specializes in Italian cuisine,
and has written many articles for the UK press. This is a collection of
preps from two of her previous books, Trattoria and Flavours of
Tuscany. There are some 66 recipes, all sorted by course (apps, soups,
pasta, risotto, pizza, etc.). It is all basic and simple an easy enough
to do, enlivened by the really good photography by Martin Brigdale. Try
Venetian fresh pea and rice soup, white pizza, baked mussels, gnocchi
with arugula pesto, or hunter's style chicken. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in metric weight and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

27. SOUP (DK Books, 2009, 2011, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-55363-167-5,
$19.95 Canadian softcovers) is a book package assembled by four food
editors and four recipe testers. This compendium of 200 basic soups
preps, from
appetizers to hearty and full meals, was originally published in hard
back in 2009; this is the 2011 paperback reprint. It has been organized
by food ingredient, such as summer vegetables, winter vegetables,
legumes and nuts, fish and shellfish, poultry game and meat. Each prep
has the usual cook's notes and advice. There are separate technique and
recipe planning chapters these also have plenty of photos. The
planners have pix and page references to recipes for topical soups such
as vegetarian, chilled, hearty, healthy, spicy, quick, and "main
meals". Each recipe has a service level, prep and cook times, and
storage possibilities. The last chapter has some ten bread recipes.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, and there is no table of equivalents. Try
mussels in a ginger and chile brother; red pepper soup; fish soup with
fennel; chicory gazpacho; smoked tomato soup; curried broth with
peppers. There are nice large print fonts, clear and easy to use
layout. Quality/Price Rating: 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Tasting some more International Red Wines priced $14.95 or higher...

2011-12-31T13:07:00.001-05:00

The Date and Time: Friday, November 25, 2011 10:30 AM to 1:30 PM

The Event: a tasting of International Red Wines Over $14.95, assembled for the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada by Sadie Darby.

The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square

The Target Audience: WWCC members.

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines were available at the LCBO or by special order.

The Quote/Background: this was part two of an extensive red wine tasting the first was conjoined with the Champagne tasting last month.

The Wines: I did not try all the wines.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot Reserve 1999 Niagara, $50 at winery

-Baglio Curatolo Arini Spadina Una Viola Syrah 2008 IGT Sicily, +171629, $16.95 Jan. Vintages

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot Reserve 2007 Niagara, $24.95, +395855 -Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 Niagara, $24.95 +268391

-Fattorie Marchesi Torrigiani Torre di Ciardo 2006 Toscana IGT, +212084, $19.95

-Sabarda Cotes de Roussillon 2009, $16.95

-Plunkett Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia, $19.95

-14 Hands Hot to Trot Red 2008 Washington State, $14.95 +226522

-Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvee Renaissance 2007 Corbieres, $18.95 +148692

-Domaine Hegarty-Chamans No 1 2005 Minervois, +250605, $24.95

-Chateau de l;Ille Angelique Corbieres, +237578, $15.95

-Laurent Miquel L'Artisan Languedoc 2008 Saint Chinian, $14.95

-Eval Bruro Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $17.95 Mendoza

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Miguel Torres Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $14.95 +177451

-Henry of Pelham Family Tree Red 2009, $18.95 +247882 (merlot, syrah, pinot noir, cabernet franc)

-Luigi Bosca Malbec Reserva 2010, $17.95 +79293

-Domaine Drouhin Cloudnine Pinot Noir Oregon 2009, $21.95 +159970

-Domaine Boudau Le Clos 2009 Cotes du Roussillon, $16.95

-Uggiano Chianti DOCG 2009, $15.95

-Jacob's Creek Reserve Barossa Shiraz 2008, $16.95

-Hahn Pinot Noir Monterey 2008, $18.95

-Carione Brunello di Montalcino, $29.95 GL

-Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo 2005, $49.95

-Wyndham Estate Bin 555 Shiraz 2008, $15.95

-Jacob's Creek Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $16.95

-Wyndham Estate Bin 444 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $15.45

The Food: none

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Wine Writers' Circle Annual Ports tasting

2011-12-28T20:42:00.003-05:00

The Date and Time: Friday, November 25, 2011 10:30 AM to 1:30 PM

The Event: a tasting of ports assembled for the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada by Sadie Darby.

The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square

The Target Audience: WWCC members.

The Availability/Catalogue: most ports were available at the LCBO or by special order.

The Wines: I did not taste all the ports, just the tawnies and vintaged.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Borges Roncao 20 Years Tawny, $58.75 (JMV Food Service)

-Borges Vintage Port 2003, $49.95 JMV Food Service) private order

-Taylor Century of Port (4 x 375 mL): 40, 30, 20, 10 year old Port, in a wooden box. +601419, $278.95 Vintages

-Taylor 20 Year Old Tawny Port 375 mL

-Taylor 30 Year Old Tawny Port 750 mL, $183.95 +540252 Vintages

-Taylor 40 Year Old Tawny Port 750 mL, $238.95 +540260 Vintages

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Borges Soalheira 10 Years Tawny, $33.95 (JMV Food Service)

-Borges Vintage Port 2007, $32.85 JMV Food Service) private order

-Borges Vintage Port 2005, $35 JMV Food Service) private order

-Quinta do Noval Black

-Warre's Otima 10 Year old Tawny, +566174, $21.95 500 mL

-Jose Maria da Fonseca 2003 Port

-Taylor 10 Year Old Tawny Port 375 mL

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Quinta do Noval Tawny Port

The Food: none

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com and a.martins@jmvcanada.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

More interesting cookbooks

2011-12-28T20:42:00.001-05:00

3. SMALL SWEET TREATS (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 168 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-
0694-9, $19.99 US soft covers) is by Marguerite Marceau Henderson, food
writer and cookbook author (Small Plates, Small Parties). Apparently,
she is specializing in "small" foods! The overriding factor here is the
nature of small: cookies, frozen desserts, breakfast goodies, pies,
tarts, the cobbler family, cakes, and other baked goods, etc. You'll
need a lot of temptation resistance here, for one bite will lead to
another. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: family bakers
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chocolate zucchini cake;
apricot fool; lemon cream stop fruit-filled crepes; sesame anise bites;
strawberry panna cotta with strawberry-basil balsamic compote.
The downside to this book: I could use more preps.
The upside to this book: but there are some nifty treats here.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

4. THE FINEST WINES OF CALIFORNIA; a regional guide to the best
producers and their wines (University of California Pr., 2011,
320 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-26658-2, $34.95 US soft covers) is by Stephen
Brook, who has written for Hugh Johnson and has also authored "Wines of
California" as a Mitchell Beazley Wine Guide in 2006. The book, co-
published with Quarto Group in the UK, is one of an illustrated series
created by The World of Fine Wine magazine. These are guides to the
classic regions and their producers, vineyards and vintages. As Hugh
Johnson, one of the editorial team, would say "These are the wines most
worth talking about". Thus far, the company Fine Wine Editions has
looked at Champagne, Tuscany, Rioja, and Bordeaux. The format is pretty
straight-forward at this point, with Hugh Johnson giving many of the
series' forewords their lustre. There's material in about 50 pages or
so on history, culture and geography, along with winemaking, grapes,
and viticulture. Then comes the biggest section: producers and their
wines, sub-arranged by region. The 250 pages here cover Napa, Sonoma
and the important regions to the south. Then there is a final 25 pages
on wine appreciation, vintages, top-ten tables, glossary, bibliography,
and how (and where) to buy California wines. The photography is mainly
centered on the producers. Overall, this is an excellent guide to the
region.
Audience and level of use: the serious wine lover who also loves to
read, reference libraries and wine schools.
Some interesting or unusual facts: for whatever reason, Screaming Eagle
and The Bryant Family are not included. I'd have thought that "these
are the wines most worth talking about". They're good albeit
overpriced, but that gets people talking about them!! By the same
token, Gallo IS included, and "these are the wines most worth talking
about".
The downside to this book: California is too diffused to cover in just
one book.
The upside to this book: there's a ribbon bookmark.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

5. TART LOVE; sassy, savory, and sweet (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 144 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4236-1894-1, $24.99 US hard covers) is by Holly Herrick,
former restaurant critic for the Charleston SC newspaper. She now
writes cookbooks (this is her second). Tarts are open-faced (no double
crust) thin pies. She covers savoury tartlets, tarts, pot pies (with
the single crust on top), quiches, sweet custards, cream pies, and
fruit tarts. She begins with a primer on pastry making: but she doesn't
like lard in her dough, nor does she have any gluten-free alternative.
Main course and dessert preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: pie makers, home cooks
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: winesap apple and walnut
tart; eggplant and cream cheese tapenade tartlets; salade nicoise tart;
panna cotta tart with roasted fresh figs; creamy blue crab and salmon
quiche; raspberry crème brulee tartlets; drunken pumpkin-bourbon tart.
The downside to this book: no gluten-free pie crust preps.
The upside to this book: good large print size
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

6 AUTHENTIC NORWEGIAN COOKING (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 192 pages,
ISBN 978-1-61608-217-8, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Astrid Karlsen
Scott, who has written many books about Norwegian food and customs.
Here she presents an all-purpose book of more than 300 traditional
Norwegian recipes. The foods come from every region, and are useful for
every occasion. There's a small culinary history with background for
most dishes. As well, there are full colour photos and line drawings.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of metric
equivalents. The book also includes a sources list, material on
parties, napkin folding, spice charts, glossary and pantry of common
Norwegian foods. Of course, three are lutefisk, farikal, and rakorret
recipes here.
Audience and level of use: Scandinavian food lovers, home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: open face sandwich tidbits;
gravlaks; baked trout; New Year's Eve game; stuffed cabbage leaves;
yogurt mousse; Daim cake; crisp waffles with cream; Birthday kringle.
Smoked eel; mackerel fillets.
The downside to this book: she makes it look easier than it is.
The upside to this book: there are two indexes, one in English and one
in Norwegian.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

7. FRUGAVORE; how to grow organic, buy local, waste nothing, and eat
well (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 336 pages, ISBN 978-
1-61608-408-0, $16.95 US soft covers) is by Arabella Forge, an
Australian nutritionist. She offers us her advice on how to live and
eat well using local food. She shows us how to access quality produce
from local farmers, use older cooking techniques, create compost for
our own garden, stock our pantry well, shop for economic cuts of meat,
and use co-ops. She has about b100 recipes. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. Specific chapters deal with minimizing waste at
home, grassroots movements, making your own food, team efforts, working
a vegetable garden, and then chapters on food such as meat, fish, whole
grains, and more. WARNING: Most of the indexed recipes are off by two
pages, that is, an oatmeal pastry is referred to on page 252, but it
should really be page 250. You'll need to add a note to the index
yourself in order to remember this detail.
Audience and level of use: concerned home cooks, frugal eaters.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: "Fermented milk products
such as yogurt and kefir are traditional staples in all milk-drinking
societiescreates healthy lactic-acid bacteria and makes other
nutrients in milk easier for the human body to use."
The downside to this book: most of us don't have all the time required
to do this work. I'm retired from a day job but I still cannot keep up
with the demands of frugavores.
The upside to this book: there are nice preps for homemade condiments,
but she does use too much sugar in the ketchup.
Quality/Price Rating: 80.

8. QUICK-FIX VEGAN; healthy, homestyle meals in 30 minutes or less
(Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2011, 212 pages, ISBN 978-1-4494-0785-8,
$16.99 US paper covers) is by Robin Robertson, author of Quick-Fix
Vegetarian. She's a major food writer with about two dozen vegetarian
and vegan books to her credit, as well as articles in a number of
periodicals and newspapers. So here are 150 or so recipes, covering the
gamut from apps to desserts. The overriding rule is that they must be
prepared in 30 minutes or less. But there are make ahead meals that can
be baked at the last minute, again less than 30 minutes. The preps call
for an organized pantry and a good setup (mise en place). There are
many simple ethnic foods here, especially from those places with a
dairy-free culture. Both ends of the Mediterranean, Mexican, Asian, and
even Cajun foods are here. As with her other quick-fix book, Robertson
gives some basic primer material on how to cook smarter and organize
yourself. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there are three pages of tables of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: vegans, vegetarians
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: spicy smoked Portobello
tacos; creamy balsamic dressing with tahini; farfalle with sesame
cabbage; Moroccan pumpkin hummus; apple pie parfaits; Korean hot pot;
Tuscan kale lasagna; zucchini frittata; tzatziki sauce.
The downside to this book: gluten-free only comes up with reference to
pasta dishes, using purchased versions.
The upside to this book: good idea, save a lot of time.
Quality/Price Rating:

9. THE VENISON COOKBOOK; venison dishes from fast to fancy (Skyhorse
Publishing, 2011, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-456-1, $19.95 US hard
covers) is by Kate Fiduccia, who has hunted and cooked venison, plus
prepared many game cookbooks. Just about any kind of "venison" (a
generic term which also includes moose, elk and caribou as well as
deer) is a great low-fat alternative to beef. Unless you shoot it
yourself, what you get in Canada comes from a game farm, which is "next
best". Here are 150 preps, ranging from easy to hard, simple to
gourmet, fast to complex. Many are adapted from beef preps. There are
photos, anecdotes and advice. Arrangement is by course, with apps,
mains, breakfast dishes, pies and casseroles, soups and stews,
marinades and rubs, and some accompaniments. There's material on game
care tips and butchering. Nutritional information has its own separate
pages. And there are US mail order sources; the only source from Canada
in BC is for wholesale distributors only. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: extremely useful for hunters and game
lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: venison and vegetable
kabobs; venison stew with barley; chicken-fried venison; Sicilian
venison burgers; venison tamale pie; Salisbury moose steak.
The downside to this book: I wish the nutritional data had been with
the recipe, saving the extra step of looking it up.
The upside to this book: good material on gaming.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

10. THE CHEESEMONGER'S KITCHEN; celebrating cheese in 90 recipes
(Chronicle Books, 2011; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-
7766-4, $35 US hard covers) is by Chester Hastings, a cheesemonger at
Joan's on Third in Los Angeles. He's also a writer and chef. It's
actually more of a cookbook, with 90 preps. It's not a reference book
on cheese, but a cookbook that uses cheeses through the spectrum of
apps to desserts, including of course the cheese board. There are some
wine pairing notes of a general sort for cow, sheep and goat milk, and
then recommendations for each recipe. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: cheese lovers
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Flamiche (Belgian tart with
bacon, beer and munster); burrata with asparagus, pine nuts, and golden
raisins; taleggio fried in cornmeal and grappa batter; robiola verde;
zucchini and goat gouda fritters; handmade garganelli with gorgonzola
and walnuts.
The downside to this book: it might have been interesting to have beer
recommendations as accompaniment as well as wine pairings.
The upside to this book: good idea, recipes really knit well together.
Quality/Price Rating: 89

11. VEGETARIAN ENTREES THAT WON'T LEAVE YOU HUNGRY (The Experiment,
2011; distr. T. Allen, 244 pages, ISBN 978-1-61519-033-1, $17.95 US
soft covers) is by Lukas Volger, a chef who is now a cookbook author
(he wrote Veggie Burgers Every Which Way). Here are 70 mains that
promise to be "nourishing, flavorful main courses that fill the center
of the plate". It comes with log rolling from Martha Rose Shulman and
Deborah Madison. Volger's mission is to get the cook away from using
burgers, pastas, and stir-frees as a constant stream of main dishes at
home. So there is good variation here, from hearty salads and soups
through dumplings, curries, oven-baked dishes, savoury cakes, eggs, and
pizzas and tarts. There is also a primer on vegetarian pantries,
emphasizing the need for staples of sauces and condiments (toasted
bread crumbs, roasted veggies such as tomatoes and Bells and garlic,
caramelized onions, pestos, tapenades, bean dips, peanut sauce, and
more). And a short resources list. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. Try saag paneer, cashew and cauliflower
curry, spiced lentil soup, delicate squash soup, pumpkin risotto, pad
Thai (with variations), or vegetarian banh mi. Quality/price rating:
89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Tasting New York state wines, Nov 17/11

2011-12-23T21:37:00.001-05:00

8. The Date and Time: Thursday, November 17, 2011 6PM to 9 PM

The Event: a tasting of New York state wines

The Venue: 17^th Annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, Metro Centre

The Target Audience: VIPs on opening night, trade.

The Availability/Catalogue: very few wines are available in Ontario, but the tasting was useful for keeping up-to-date with New York wines.

The Quote/Background: Robert Ketchin has for years co-ordinated the offerings of Uncork New York in Ontario. His booth is a good example of calm and decorum, plus tasting sheets.

The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Serenity Medium Dry Riesling 2008 Finger Lakes, $22.60

-Anthony Road Gewurztraminer 2010 Finger Lakes, $18.75

-Clovis Point Vintners Select Merlot 2007 Long Island, $42.75

-Osprey's Dominion Reserve Merlot 2007 Long Island, $39.85 In Store Discovery Jan 2012

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Atwater Estate Vineyards Sweet Riesling 2009 Finger Lakes, $15.05

-Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2010 Finger Lakes, $17.85 (Hobbs & Co)

-Lamoreaux Landing Dry Riesling 2010 Finger Lakes, $16 (MCO)

-Lamoreaux Landing Chardonnay 2008 Finger Lakes, $16 (MCO)

-Martha Clara Chardonnay 2008 Long Island, $31.05

-Keuka Lake Leon Millot 2010 Finger Lakes, $31.80

-Oak Summit Pinot Noir 2009 Hudson River, $31.05

-Millbrook Cabernet Franc 2010 Hudson River, $26.20

-Fox Run Cabernet Franc Lemberger 2008 Finger Lakes, $16.30 (Trilogy)

-Osprey's Dominion Meritage Flight 2006 Long Island, $40.80 (Trilogy)

-Paumanok Assemblage 2007 Long Island, $54.10

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Keuka Springs Riesling 2010 Finger Lakes, $20

-Glenora Gewurztraminer 2010 Finger Lakes, $18.80

-Sheldrake Point Luckystone White 2010 Finger Lakes, $18.80 (Classique Imports)

The Food: none

The Downside: this was the third event of the day for me.

The Upside: a chance to catch up with New York wines.

The Contact Person: nywine@ketchin.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Winemakers on Tour - tasting seminar focusing on regional variations in Australian Cabernet Sauvignon.

2011-12-20T15:20:00.001-05:00

The Date and Time: Thursday, November 17, 2011 2 PM to 5 PM

The Event: Winemakers on Tour tasting seminar focusing on regional variations in Australian Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Venue: Spoke Club

The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers about 40 people.

The Availability/Catalogue: there is eclectic availability, sometimes with different vintage years. Treasury Estates is the umbrella owner.

The Quote/Background: winemaker Oliver Crawford led us through Margaret River's Devil's Lair, Sue Hodder did the same for Wynn's Coonawarra Estate, while Chris Hatcher had Wolf Blass of Barossa.

The Wines: Only 4 of the 10 wines were completely Cabernet Sauvignon. There were two chardonnays and four shiraz blends (one with Tempranillo).

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Wynns V & A Lane Shiraz Cabernet Coonawarra 2009, mid-$50

-Devil's Lair Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River 2008, $99.99

-Wolf Blass Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek 2005, $34.95?

-Wynns Glengyle Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2007, $59.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Wolf Blass Gold Label Chardonnay Adelaide Hills 2009, $19.99

-Devil's Lair Chardonnay Margaret River 2009, $25

-Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz Cabernet Robe/Mt. Benson 2009, $34.95

-Wolf Blass Black Label Shiraz Cabernet South Australia 2007, $99.95

-Wolf Blass Black Label Shiraz Cabernet South Australia 2006, $99.95 (reception).

-Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2008, $89.95

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Devil's Lair Dance with the Devil Shiraz Tempranillo Margaret River 2010

The Food: bread at the seminar, cheese and charcuterie at the reception later.

The Downside: this was the second of three events today.

The Upside: a chance to hobnob with more winemakers.

The Contact Person: jamie@goodfoodmedia.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

17th Annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, Metro Centre

2011-12-19T21:37:00.001-05:00

The Date and Time: Thursday, November 17, 2011 6PM to 9 PM

The Event: 17^th Annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, Metro Centre

The Target Audience: VIPs on opening night, trade.

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available from respective agencies or at Vintages or LCBO.

The Quote/Background: I only had time to visit a few agents I chose the Fine Wine and Intervin Tasting Room and MCO.

The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cassini Cellars Collector's Series Syrah 2009 British Columbia, $45.95, +255752 Vintages January 2012

-Silkscarf Ensemble 2008 Okanagan, $90

-Piper Heidsieck Brut NV Champagne

-Rene Mure Gewurztraminer Signature Alsace, $17.95 +61218 V

-Chateau Pontet Caillou Pessac-Leognan 2008, $27.95 +244095 V

-Quevedo Colheita Port 1996, $50.55 (Nokhrin)

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Oak Bay Family Reserve Pinot Noir VQA 2008 British Columbia, $19.95, +267146 Vintages January 2012

-Aces Wine Seven Deuces Red 2009 British Columbia (merlot, shiraz, cabernet), +273631, $29.95 Vintages January 2012

-Vignoble Roger Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2009 D'Oc, $15.95 +712638 V

-5 Stones Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon Margaret River 2010, $23.95 +108001V

-Chateau Calissanne Rouge Ctx d'Aix en Provence 2008, $16.95 +61283 V

-Rodrigues Wild Blueberry Newfoundland, +337824 V $16

-Martin Berdugo Crianza Ribera del Duero 2006, +246926 V, $18

-Perry Creek El Dorado Zinman 2007 California, +980896 V $19

-Milbrandt Traditions Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Washington State, +237784 Vintages, $20

-Quinta de Lubazim Lupucinus Reserva 2007 Douro, $22.65 (Nokhrin)

-Gloria Reynolds Adega Tinto Real VR Alentejano 2006, $13.50 (Nokhrin)

-Chateau Reynier 2009 Bordeaux Superieur, $14.50 (Nokhrin)

-Vincent d'Astree Esprit Terroir Premier Cru Brut NV Champagne, $55 (Nokhrin)

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Blackwood Lane Vicuna Roja 2008 British Columbia, $47.95 +254193 Vintages

-Lulu Island Cabernet Sauvignon VQA 2009 British Columbia, $19.95 +254219 Vintages

-Eau Vivre Pinot Noir 2008 British Columbia

-5 Stones Shiraz Margaret River 2010, $25.95 +111120 V

-Chateau Haut-Rieuflaget Grand Juan Bordeaux 2008, $13.95 +226134 V

-Bod. Dehesa de Luna Castilla 2008, $18.25 (Nokhrin)

-Joel Duffau La Mothe du Barry Bordeaux Superieur 2009, $13.50 (Nokhrin)

-Quinta de Lubazim Lupucinus Colheita 2010 Douro, $17.50 (Nokhrin)

The Food: none

The Downside: this was the third event of the day for me.

The Upside: a chance to catch up with agents

The Contact Person: vin@vaxxine.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

SOME NEW WINE PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

2011-12-18T12:08:00.001-05:00

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

From Applewood Farm Winery (www.applewoodfarmwinery.com) in Stouffville (all wines available at the winery):

1. Applewood Farm Winery Trio 2010, $14.95 for 750 mL: a juicy combo of a third each of raspberry, black currant, and cranberry fruits, featuring both off-dry and tart flavours, with an SC of 2. Absolutely delicious with the fruit jumping out at you followed by bracing acidity. Great with savoury foods. 13% ABV, twist-off top.

2. Applewood Farm Winery Iced Apple Cider 2010, $19.95 for 375 mL: incredible richness and tang, with an SC of 25. Created the same way as ice wine (pressing frozen fruit), this Gold Medal winner comes in a new vintage. Ready for release now, finished with a cork. Great apple tones.

3. Applewood Farm Winery Crazy Eights Raspberry Cider 2011, $3 for 341 mL bottle (or $50 for a two-four): this gluten-free alternative to beer hits the spot, with its rich and ripe raspberry tones. The winery has been making it every year since 2006. This latest batch from the 2011 harvest is still 8.8% ABV, crown cap, and an SC of one that is barely perceptible. This has to be my favorite all-time drink. I regularly buy six cases a year, and always pay for my own tasting sample with a whole bottle. I own no stock, etc. No conflict-of-interest here. Just value and flavour something has to be my fave, and this is it.

4. Applewood Farm Winery Smokin' Apple 2008, $14.95 for 375 mL: a nifty wine for cooking with apple flavours iced cider with black pepper and other savoury spices, some hot, great for BBQs anytime of the year. 12% ABV, and also available as a Chef Pack (a dozen for $120). Sounds terrific for the Christmas bird or ham.

5. Applewood Farm Winery Rhubarb and Caramelized Onion Relish (it's almost chutney if it had had any raisins). It contains some of the aforementioned smokin' apple wine, fermented rhubarb, onions, and other condiments. It's a spread for any BBQ or dinner, not a drink, although I am sure that Matt Passafiume, winemaker at Applewood, could probably do an alcoholic version. Maybe next year. $6 for a medium-sized jar.

From F.F.W. Langguth,

1. Blue Nun Rivaner 2010 Deutscher Tafelwein Rhein, +729, $9.45 General List: This has been around the LCBO a long time (check out the low product number only three digits). But it is no longer your mother's Blue Nun. The blend is now just from the rivaner grape, the alcohol has been cranked up a bit to 9.5% ABV, and the wine is less sweet, more balanced, and some peaches remain. It is still a social wine, and the magnum (+24075) delivers the same orchard fruit value at a cheaper price of $14.95 ($7.48 a 750 mL equivalent).

2. Black Slate Riesling Mosel QbA, +176917, $10.95 General List delivers Euro value for an off-dry riesling that exhibits minerality and peaches and pears. Good for appetizers and first courses, 11% ABV.

From Chateau des Charmes:

1. Chateau des Charmes Riesling Old Vines 2008 NOTL VQA, $16.95 Vintages +277228: run, don't walk, to snap up whatever is left of the initial 200 cases (or order from the winery) for a Riesling that is just off the wall in Ontario. It's the highly acclaimed Ontario Wine Award White Wine of the Year 2011, Gold Medalist. Made from vines planted in 1978, 12% ABV. Succulence like you would not believe, but off-dry Alsatian character, with three years of aging. A beaut.

2. Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2008 NOTL VQA, $14.55 +195511 General List: one of the last few pinots in Ontario to be sold at such a low price. This is traditional pinot noir in the French style, cool climate, light and delicate with red berries and cherries. Some older vines are in the mix. Aged in French barriques for six months.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Trivento Wines at Select Wines' Toronto office

2011-12-16T22:19:00.001-05:00

6. The Date and Time: Thursday, November 17, 2011 Noon to 1 PM

The Event: A one-on-one Trivento wine tasting and discussion with their winemaker, German di Cesare.

The Venue: agency offices, Select Wines, Queen Street East

The Target Audience: me (and other lifestyle and wine writers in an hourly rotation)

The Avail ability/Catalogue: all wines tasted are available (or will be) through the LCBO.

The Quote/Background: German is responsible for the premium wines at Trivento, the winery named after three winds that blow through the Mendoza. He took me through the principal vineyards that the company has, commenting on each and on what grapes are best grown where. We sampled wines with and without food. The premium ranges include Golden Reserve, Coleccion Fincas, and Armado Sur. We also tasted General List wines, including a Fair Trade Malbec.

The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Trivento Golden Reserve Chardonnay 2009, Vintages +243220, $18.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Trivento Malbec Fair Trade 2011, +160994 LCBO, $9.95 (80 yr old vines)

-Trivento Amado Sur 2009 (Malbec, bonarda, syrah), +37036 Vintages, $15 (Jan 7, 2012)

-Trivento Coleccion Fincas No. 2 Serie Syrah 2007, +269217 Vintages, $16.95 (May 26, 2012)

-Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2008, +588731 Vintages, $19.95

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Trivento Tribu Malbec 2011, +145284 LCBO, $8.95

The Food: pates, cheese, fruit, breads, crackers, charcuterie.

The Downside: it was the first of three tastings today.

The Upside: a chance to speak with German di Cesare.

The Contact Person: lucus@selectwines.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Portuguese Wine Workshop, led by Rui Falcao.

2011-12-15T17:06:00.001-05:00

The Date and Time: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 Noon to 3 PM

The Event: Portuguese Wine Workshop, led by Rui Falcao.

The Venue: Sassafraz

The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers, lifestyle writers

The Availability/Catalogue: the seminar wines were available through the LCBO, other wines sampled were limited.

The Quote/Background: Falcao was an engaging speaker. He spoke on seven major wine regions such as Dao, Douro, Vinho Verde, Bairrada, explaining terroir and circumstances, and winemaking philosophies.

The Wines: There were eight wines in the seminar, but two of them were priced over $25, and they stood out. Six more wines were presented, for the meal. Certainly it was an eclectic presentation.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Esporao Reserva 2008 DOC Alentejo, $24.95

-Quinta do Crasto Reserva Vinhas Velhas DOC Douro 2009, $39.99

-Quinta do Vale Meao Douro 2009, $85 (Liquid Art)

-Herdade Paco do Conde 2008 VR Alentejano

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Quinta do Gomartz Grande Escolha 2010 DOC Vinho Verde, $14.95

-Bacalhoa Tinto da Anfora VR Alentejano 2009, $12.95

-Meandro do Vale Meao Douro 2008, $24.95 (Liquid Art)

-Duorum Douro 2008

-Quinta do Valdoeiro 2005 Reserva Bairrada

-Catedral Dao 2007 Reserva

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Aveleda Fonte 2010, $8.95

-De Fonseca Periquita Red 2009 VR Peninsula de Setubal, $8.95

-Alianca Bairrada Reserva DOC 2008, $8.95

-Quinta da Fata Classico DOC Dao 2007, $16.95

The Food: Outstanding cod cakes, baked clams, beef stew, seafood soup, breads, shrimp, and a whole suckling pig. It was a typical Portuguese spread, so of course the wines provided great accompaniment.

The Downside: the seminar took awhile to fill up, we started late with eight people but eventually the room filled up.

The Upside: the suckling pig was a real treat.

The Contact Person: sso@artscom.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Christmas Stocking Stuffers (Food and Wine Books)

2011-12-13T18:07:00.000-05:00

Stocking stuffers are at the top of everybody's gift list: something affordable (under $10,
up to $20) that can also double as a host gift, something small and lightweight. Most of
the books here are paperbacks. And of course, they can stuff an adult stocking. Typical
for food are:

--200 CASSEROLES (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 208 pages, $12.99 US spiral bound) is by
Stephanie Ashcraft and Janet Eyring, cookbook authors. This is a pretty basic collection
of preps for easy oven, stovetop and slow cooker casseroles. The arrangement is by
course (breakfast, mains, sides, etc.) with material on family dining and finicky kids and
entertaining.

--SMALL PLATES (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011, 64 pages, $17.95 CAD) is by Annie
Rigg. It is a small collection of international dishes, ranging from Spanish tapas to
Middle East meze and Chinese dim sum, arranged by main ingredient such as meat,
seafood and veggies. The first recipe in the book -- creamy pancetta and onion tart --
works for me.

--NOW EAT THIS! 100 quick calorie cuts (Grand Central Life and Style Books, $13.99
CAD soft covers) is by Rocco Dispirito, who had one of the first gourmet reality shows
on American television. It is a flip book, detailing info on how you can cut your calorie
count at both a restaurant and (on the other part of the book) at home fifty tips for each..
It comes with the usual disclaimers about consulting a health professional before you
attempt to lose weight, It's a colourful book, full of good advice. The part about eating
out is well worth the price (e.g., such basic stuff as saying "no" to desserts is effective
and saves you money too).

--MACARONS (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011, 64 pages, $21.95 CAD) is by Annie
Rigg. The 33 recipes here cover the basics, and then goes on to flavour combinations.
There are chapters on fruits and flowers, coffee, caramel and chocolate, and nuts and
spices.

--WHO PUT THE DEVIL IN DEVILLED EGGS? (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 173
pages, $15.95 CAD) is really just short trivia about American food history. There are 48
foods here, such as lobster roll, baked Alaska, corn dog, iced tea, waffle, and mac and
cheese. Author Ann Treistman situates the book in the 1950s, so there is stuff about
Velveeta and Jell-o as well. Each food gets a short history, a photo, and a recipe or so. An
interesting book that should appeal as a holiday read, short and light.

--PRESERVES AND PICKLES (CICO Books, 2011, 64 pages, $21.95 CAD) is by
Gloria Nicol who gives us a basic primer on preserving techniques and equipment.
Emphasizing health and safety issues. Then she gives some 25 recipes for jams, jellies,
curds, pickled relishes, and chutneys.

--MAPLE SUGAR (Storey Publishing, 2011, 144 pages, $15.95 CAD soft covers) is by
naturalist Tim Herd who gives us the "sap to syrup" story. It gives data about the various
grades, the history of maple sugaring, how to identify the different kinds of maple trees
from leaves or twigs, bark or flowers. There are reproductions of older advertisements.
Plus, of course, 20 recipes for classics such as maple nut bread, maple-glazed salmon,
and baked beans.

--SEAFOOD FAVORITES (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 96 pages, $10 CAD soft covers) is from
the Charleston Cooks! Maverick Kitchen store. It's reflective of coastal South Carolina
heritage and the Low Country region. There are dips, sauces, sides, plus a stream of preps
for scallops, oysters, shrimp, snapper, flounder, grouper and others.

--THE WILD BLUEBERRY COOK (Down East Books, 2011; distr. Nimbus, 82 pages,
ISBN 867-0-89272-939-5, $14.95 US hard covers) is by Virginia M. Wright, senior
writer at Down East magazine and cookbook author. She covers production, pie-eating
contests, baking competitions, trivia, and an annual musical in Maine which celebrates its
"official berry". There are some interviews with growers, rakers, beekeepers,
winemakers, and food scientists. Plus 16 recipes.

--CAKE SIMPLE; recipe for bundt-style cakes (Chronicle Books, 2011, 132 pages,
$19.95 US) is by Christie Matheson, a co-author of several cookbooks including Flour.
There's an endless variety of shapes and forms; more than 50 recipes here attest to that.
There are the classics (brown sugar, lemon-poppy seed, mint chocolate), the gooey
(gingerbread with orange-cream cheese frosting), the upscale (kumquat-coconut with
tarragon), and mini-bundts (like a cupcake). A nice single-purpose book.

--200 SOUPS (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 208 pages, $12.99 US spiral bound) is by Madge
Baird, a cookbook editor and author. This is a basic collection using beans, lentils,
vegetables, beef, chicken, pork, fish, potatoes, tomatoes, and pantry items. There are
simple and there are complicated recipes here, a little bit of something for everyone.

--THE HUMMINGBIRD BAKERY BAKING ORGANIZER (Ryland, Peters & Small,
2011, $19.95 CAD) is meant for recipe storage. You can file and store preps, as well as
contacts and source lists. There are lined pages for recording your own recipes, divided
into six tabbed and themes baking sections. Also, there are six baking recipes from The
Hummingbird Bakery (London UK).

Other little books, for beverages, include:

--GREAT WHISKEYS (DK Books, 2011, 384 pages, $17 CAD) is a pocket-guide,
although it is heavy because of the slick paper. The material was previously published in
the longer "World Whiskey". 500 of the "best" whiskies from around the world are
covered, in an A Z arrangement by name, regardless of country of origin. There are
tasting notes, of course, with colour photos of the bottles. There are also whiskey tour
notes for Islay, Speyside, Ireland, Japan, and Kentucky.

--VINTAGE COCKTAILS (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 218 pages, $19.95 CAD) is a
guide to retro cocktails for the home mixologist. Amanda Hallay, the compiler, is a
cultural historian and fashion writer. Vintage cocktails are really the truly classics, and
the M.O. here should be "know the classic recipes before you break the classic recipes".
For 90% of the action, you need go no further than your basic martini, grasshopper,
Negroni, mint julep, Pimm's cup, sidecar, daiquiri and 57 more. Each comes with a
thumbnail pop history. There's the usual primer on cocktail making and how to deal with
hangovers. And great retro style illustrations by David Wolfe.

--GINGER BLISS AND THE VIOLET FIZZ (Harvard Common Press, 2011, 292 pages,
$19.95 US) is by A. J. Rathbun, an award-winning spirits writer. It's a nifty collection to
200 cocktails, all of which use new and classic liqueurs, such as Chartreuse, crème de
cassis, St. Germain (elderflower), and PAMA (pomegranate). The drinks too range from
new to old, such as the new Ginger Bliss and the older Violet Fizz from the book's title.
There's the basic primer on cocktails plus a description of the newer liqueurs. A nice
little book for those who like a kick of sugar/fruit in their drinks.

Annual calendars are always monster hits and are often appreciated, both the wall and the
desk type. The best of the desk are the two "page-a-day" (PAD) calendars from
Workman. THE WINE LOVER'S CALENDAR 2012 (Workman, 2011, $15.99 CAD)
has been put together by Karen MacNeil, author of "The Wine Bible". Saturday and
Sunday have been combined on one page. There is a new varietal highlighted each
month, tips galore for pouring and tasting, food and wine matching, bargains, pop
quizzes, horoscope wines, quotes, etc. And 125 "must try" wines are highlighted (many
can be found in Canada). 365 BOTTLES OF BEER FOR THE YEAR 2012
(Workman, 2011, $15.99 CAD) too has a combined Saturday and Sunday page. Most of
the beers appear as imports in Canada, but otherwise there are few Canadian brews
included. Lights, lagers, ales, porters, stouts, seasonal beers, and lambrics they're all
here. Other material in this PAD includes beer festivals, beer facts, label lore and
vocabulary. There are also 100 "must-try" beer recommendations. If you buy any of the
PAD calendars, then you can go online to the website and pick up other stuff, usually free
at www.pageaday.com. For wall calendars, there is COLLECTIBLE TEAPOT
CALENDAR 2012 (Workman, 2011, $15.99 CAD) which has, for every month, a
distinctive teapot and tea service set, plus an indication and preps for sweets and nibbles
for a tea party. Great fun, which encourages you to have a monthly tea party, even if you
don't own the appropriate tea pot. KITCHEN ORGANIZER (Workman, 2011, $16.99
CAD) is a bit of a twist it's a magnetic calendar organizer for your fridge. There are
tear-off pages for each week, each with a grid. There are also illustrations and witticisms
from such as my fave Dorothy Parker, whose knife could slide through pemmican. This is
a very handy way to track appointments and plan activities, for families or business
people.

There's a diary/food advisor/day book called THE HUMMINGBIRD BAKERY
ENGAGEMENT CALENDAR, 2012 (Ryland, Peters and Small, $26.95 CAD), laid out
like an appointment book. The recipes have been previously published in The
Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook, and of course, if you don't have that book, this wire-
bound book is highly recommended. There's a handy pocket in the back to store
cuttings, notes, and business cards. It's a 13-month planner, and there is also a gatefold
pull-out planner for 2013.

On to the wine annuals. The two leaders are HUGH JOHNSON'S POCKET WINE
BOOK 2012 (Mitchell Beazley, 2011, 320 pages, $15.99 CAD hard bound) and OZ
CLARKE'S POCKET WINE GUIDE 2012 (Pavilion, 2011, 360 pages, $15.95 CAD
hardbound). Both are guides to wines from all around the world, not just to the "best"
wines. Similarities: Johnson claims more than 6000 wines are listed, while Clarke says
more than 7000, but then recommends 4000 producers. News, vintage charts and data,
glossaries, best value wines, and what to drink now are in both books. The major
differences: Johnson has been at it longer this is his 35th edition (Clarke is celebrating
his 20th anniversary) -- and has more respect from erudite readers for his exactitude and
scholarliness. His book is arranged by region; Clarke's book is in dictionary, A Z form
(about 1600 main entries). It is really six of one, or half a dozen of another which one to
use. Apparently, Amazon.Com reports that many people buy both, for about $20 US
total. Both books have notes on the 2010 vintage, along with a closer look at the 2009. It
is fun to look at the two books and find out where they diverge. As a sidelight, Johnson
and Oz are moving more into food: there is a 16 page section on food and wine matching
in the former, while Oz has 6 pages. Johnson also has a listing of his personal 200 fave
wines. Both books could profit from online accessibility or a CD-ROM production. What
I don't like about both books is that they come out too early. Johnson was available
August 15, while Clarke was released on Sept 6. I guess that this gets them off the hook
about having to comment on the 2011 harvest and vintage!!

Other wine annuals mostly paperbacks -- deal with "recommended" wines, not all of
the wines in the world. They can afford the space for more in-depth tasting notes (TNs)
of what they actually do cover (usually just wines available in their local marketplace).

--THE WINE TRIALS 2012 (Workman, 2011, 288 pages, $17.95 CAD soft covers) is by
Robin Goldstein, with Alexis Nerschkowitsch. Both have food and wine credentials, in
addition to authoring restaurant review books and travel books. They have been assisted
by named contributing writers and 500 named blind tasters. The object of the book is to
come up with hidden wine values. The cover proclaims brown-bag blind tastings for wine
values under $15. That's $15 US, of course, and does not allow for discounts and sales so
prevalent in the US marketplace. It is possible that a top rated US wine at $20, going on
sale for under $15, could be well over $30 in Ontario. Most of the wines sold in Ontario
are under $25 the trick is to find the best ones. This book could give some guidance.
They have full-page reviews for 175 wines under $15 US that outscored $50 to $150
bottles, using hundreds of blind tasters who filled in a simple form. The authors have lots
of material justifying their choices. Only about half the wines are available in Ontario,
and many are not value priced because of the LCBO mark-up policy and lack of
sales/discounts. The book just whets your appetite for a privatized company to sell wine
in Ontario.

--BILLY'S BEST BOTTLES; wines for 2012 (McArthur & Company, 2011, 240 pages,
$19.95 CAD soft covers) by Billy Munnelly is back for another round (22 ed), creating
more emphasis on wine and food pairing, party planning, and some social manners.
There's some info about country trends and frequently-asked questions about wine. Plus
data on Ontario winery tours. His whole concept of wine is organized by Mood, with
sections on wine colour and style/weight, and the wines are usually those available at the
LCBO. Most should be available across the country. He has over 200 best international
wine buys, with most under $20 and many under $12. And there is a wine index at the
back where wines are listed by region. Check out www.billysbestbottles.com.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Top Christmas Food and Wine Book Gift Ideas for 2011

2011-12-11T15:28:00.001-05:00

ON THE DEAN'S LIST:

MY 15TH -- HEY, IT'S MY FIFTEENTH !!!! -- ANNUAL SURVEY OF FOOD AND
WINE-RELATED BOOKS SUITABLE AS HOLIDAY GIFTS FOR THE 2011/12
PARTY PERIOD

DECEMBER 2011
===============================================================

By Dean Tudor, Ryerson Journalism Professor Emeritus and Gothic
Epicures Writing, www.deantudor.com (World Wine Watch Newsletter).
Blogs: http://gothicepicuresvincuisine.blogspot.com.
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com.

------

There are so many new food and wine books out there for people who have picky tastes!!
What to choose? I have cast about for material and have come up with a decent selection
to satisfy any pocketbook, any host, and any friend. All books and book-like materials
that are listed here are RECOMMENDED, and probably can be purchased at a discount
via Amazon.Ca or Chapters.Ca (with free delivery on a total purchase of over $25).
Price Alert: because of US dollar fluctuations with Canada, all prices may vary. I have
used CAD for Canadian publishers.

Part One: TOP GIFT IDEAS
========================

A. Art/travel/history books might be the best books to give a loved one
(or to yourself, since you are your own best loved one), because most may cost you an
arm and a leg. Books for the coffee table have their place in the gift scheme: just about
every such book is only bought as a gift! And don't let the prices daunt you. Such books
are available at a discount from online vendors. Because of the "economy", not too many
pricey food and wine books were released last year and this year, and book reviewers
were cut off from many foreign imports and expensive books.

--ESSENTIAL PEPIN (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2011, 685 pages, $45 CAD hard
covers) is the lead-off, most important cookbook of the year, and a desirable book for
gifting. It's by Jacques Pepin, of course, and contains more than 700 of his personal faves
from all of his cookbooks and other places. There is even a newly produced, three hour
searchable DVD which demonstrates every technique that a home cook should ever need.
All of his recipes have been examined, and most have been recast for the modern 21st
century audience. He's been working for 60 years as a chef. There's a minimal amount of
memoir-like material here, except for a chapter on how his cooking and tastes have
changed over six decades. And the binding is meant to last. This is his 26th book, yet it is
still hard to believe that it needs endorsement praise from Waters, Bourdain, and
Bastianich. Well-worth buying for yourself or as a gift.

--ELEVEN MADISON PARK; the cookbook (Little, Brown and Co., 2011, 384 pages,
$55 CAD hard covers) is by Daniel Humm (executive chef since 2006 and a Beard
Award winner in 2010) and Will Guidara (general manager). The New York restaurant
has had "four stars" from any number of reviewers; it is known for its elegance,
precision, and lightness. It's on the San Pellegrino list of World's Best 50 Restaurants.
The book is also part memoir as it is the history of the place, open since 1998, with
background material on the early lives of Humm and Guidara. And, of course, all roads
lead back to the awesome Fernand Point. There are 160 preps here, plated as they appear
at the resto: asparagus textures with shrimp and anise hyssop; John Dory seared with
variations of garlic and crayfish; yogurt apricots, curry and pickled onion. The photos are
simply phenomenal. Naturally, the arrangement of the book is by season.

--THE COUNTRY COOKING OF ITALY (Chronicle Books, 392 pages, $56 CAD hard
covers) is by Colman Andrews, with photos by Christopher Hirsheimer. It's a follow-up
book to their 2010 James Beard Best Cookbook of the Year (The Country Cooking of
Ireland). All regions are covered through 230 preps and gorgeous photos. It's a deluxe
package written by one of the top food writers in the world, for foodies and armchair
travellers alike, with an emphasis on rural culture and rustic food plus local traditions and
wines.

--THE FOOD LOVER'S GUIDE TO WINE (Little Brown and Co., 2011, $35 US) is the
latest from Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg, both former wine writers for the
Washington Post and other publications. They have also written "The Flavor Bible" and
"What to Drink with What You Eat." Here, the basic premise is if you love food, you
know flavour, and you can master wine. It is not really that simple, but the authors give it
their best shot. There is a huge section on wine types and food pairing, but precious little
on supertasters. Nor is there any index. But there is a huge resource list for websites,
glossary, wine expert bios, books, and various lists. It'll be great for wine parties as you
can expound on your new knowledge.

--WINERD (Chronicle Books, 2011, $35 US) is a wine tasting game "that crushes grape
fears", according to producer Tamara Murphy. It's a board game that tests everyone's
wine knowledge with each sip. You are supposed to taste three different wines and then
make pronouncements about each according to colour, smell and taste, plus answer a
trivia question. It's a great idea, good lively fun. The board is 20 x 20 inches, there are
trivia cards for 285 questions, game pieces and die. Give it a shot, what can you lose?

--FOODIE FIGHT REMATCH (Chronicle Books, 2011, $22.95 US) is a food challenge
trivia game; the first in the series was called FOODIE FIGHT. It's a board game that tests
your food knowledge through 150 cards (containing 750 questions), a kitchen poster, one
die, and game pieces and boards. Questions cover food categories of kitchen science,
history and geography, farming, fishing, gardening, shopping, food culture, cooking
vocabulary, and ingredients. Give it a shot, what can you lose? (see also above for wine).

--RAW DESSERTS (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 126 pages, $19.95 CAD) is by Erica
Palmcrantz and Irmela Lilja, raw food educators. This is their second co-authored book
on raw food. Here are recipes for cookies, cakes, pastries, pies and other things. All the
goods are made with natural ingredients, not heated over 42 degrees Celsius, and are free
of white sugar, gluten, eggs, and lactose. A boon to the infirm and to vegans everywhere.
Preps include chocolate truffles, plum marmalade, hazelnut nugat, and key lime raw pie.

--DISH (Artisan, 2011, 280 pages, $40 CAD) is a gorgeously illustrated book, featuring
813 colourful dinner plates. The text is by Shax Riegler, a decorative arts specialist and
magazine editor. It begins with the wooden Mediaeval trenchers, through the bone China
trade, and up to the colourful melamine plates of today. There are plate highlights in
history, sidebars about designers, and a list of the top 100 patterns of all time. The
arrangement is by major topic, such as "elegance and tradition", colour and form, flora
and fauna, people and place, and holidays and celebrations. There's a resources page plus
a bibliography. Good job all round.

--1000 GREAT EVERYDAY WINES FROM THE WORLD'S BEST WINERIES (DK
Books, 2011, 352 pages, $28 cad hard covers) explores many of the wineries covered in
last year's Opus Vino book. There's the usual primer, glossary, food and wine pairing
suggestions, and photographs (900 of them). For Ontario, the great value everyday wines
are apparently Cave Spring Cellars Riesling Estate, Chateau des Charmes Cabernet
Franc, Hillebrand Trius Riesling, Inniskillin Vidal Icewine (everday? Really?), Lailey
Chardonnay, Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir, and Tawse Sketches of
Niagara Riesling. There are addresses, websites, and tasting notes. The arrangement
begins with France and narrows down to "emerging regions". This is a good look at
modestly priced wines, in the frame of a modestly priced book.

--MY LAST SUPPER: THE NEXT COURSE (Rodale, 2011, 208 pages, $45.99 CAD)
deals with 50 great American chefs and their final meals. Photographer Melanie Dunea
has come back from her first book, "My Last Supper", with this sequel covering the
second course. Her photos are here, as well as interviews and recipes. New here are
Emeril Lagasse, Joel Robuchon, Susur Lee, Paul Bocuse, Michael Symon, Morimoto,
Tom Colicchio, and Bobby Flay (among others: I guess that also includes all the Iron
Chefs America people as well). She asks them the question that drove the first volume,
"What would you eat for last meal on earth?" I could do without some of the pseudo-
chefs, including the one who turned the question around and declared what would be the
choice of a FIRST meal in the afterlife. Spare me. Recipes are included, of course. A
great book for the foodies.

--FEEDING THE DRAGON (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2011, 290 pages, $28.99
CAD oversized paperback) is a culinary and cultural travelogue through China with
recipes, written by siblings Mary Kate Tate and Nate Tate. They've lived and toured
throughout China, studying, teaching and working in restaurants. They biked the back
roads, trudged through muddy fields, explored alleyways, and managed to get recipes.
It's a good travel book, with the usual photos, that began as a blog
(www.feedingthedragon.com) . There are Buddhist vegetarian dishes, lamb kebabs, spicy
eggplant, chicken lettuce cups easy enough for novices to do. Regions include Beijing,
Shanghai, Fujian, Hong Kong, Macau, Yunnan, Tibet, Sichuan, and Xinjiang. There's a
glossary of Chinese ingredients, substitutions, a US resources section, and material on
navigating ethnic grocery stores.

--OLIVE OIL AND VINEGAR FOR LIFE (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 227 pages,
$35.95 CAD oversized hard covers) is by Theo Stephan who runs her own organic olive
oil and vinegars brands (Global Gardens) in Santa Barbara. There are now over 50
products in her lines, and of course they are used in this coffee table book which
promotes the lifestyle of what she calls Caliterreanean (wider in scope than the older
term, Cal-Ital). There are 250 preps here, such as lemon veggie chips, pomegranate pork
BBQ, acorn squash with ratatouille and chicken sausage, and scallops ceviche with red
curry.

--ULTIMATE FOOD JOURNEYS (DK Books, 2011, 226 pages, $45 CAD oversized
hard covers) purports to cover the world's best dishes and where to eat them. The weight
of the book itself means only young people can cart it about. It's part of the Eyewitness
Travel series, a series meant for armchair travellers. It begins in Europe, of course, with
boeuf bourgignon (France), pizza (Naples), tapas (Spain), kebabs (Turkey), bratwurst
(Germany), roast lamb (Greece), injera (Ethiopia), fish curry (India), jambalaya (USA),
and ceviche (Peru) about 125 iconic dishes in all. Scampi, for example, is listed for the
Adriatic (Croatia). There are pictures and descriptions of the region, plus how to get
there, where to stay, and co-ordinates for tourist information. There's a description of
scampi and useful Croatian wines, but no recipe. Canada is not mentioned at all, and
Mexico gets just one dish: mole poblana in Puebla, Mexico. An appetite-provoking read.

--MOURAD: NEW MOROCCAN (Artisan, 2011, 390 pages, $40 US) comes from
Mourad Lahlou, chef-owner of San Francisco's Aziza, now a Michelin-starred restaurant.
It's upscale Moroccan with new North American twists, especially in the classic chicken
tagine, the basteeya, and the lamb shanks. The first part of the book has seven extensive
cooking classes on the basics of Moroccan cuisine, with the basic recipes, and then 250
pages of current preps. Double columns type, good layout and photography, plus a ton of
endorsements from Keller, Hesser, Pepin, Bourdain, and Ripert.

--TRADITIONAL SWEDISH COOKING (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 192 pages,
$33.95 CAD oversized hard covers) is a nifty illustrated guide to Swedish cuisine, written
by food writer Carolin Hofberg who lives in Sweden. It focuses on local foods such as
fresh dill, horseradish, allspice, juniper berries, fish, and lingonberries. But this is not
your IKEA food. It's a picture book too with lingering photos of plated delights and
rambling landscapes. All courses are covered, with dill and chive bread, gingerbread
muffins with lingonberries, cloudberry jam, elderflower parfait, barley risotto with crispy
bacon, and game meats.

--ILLUSTRATED STEP-BY-STEP BAKING (DK Books, 2011, 544 pages, $39 CAD
oversized hard covers) is a lush and plush book for those beginners (or even experienced
cooks) who have a fear of baking. These are easy-to-follow recipes with more than 1500
photos of techniques and final plating. Caroline Bretherton has a UK café and has worked
in television cooking shows; she beings that Brit sensibility to the details. There are 80
classic preparations here, with a further 240 variations based on transferable skills and
substitutions. She also has some classics without variations, such as buttermilk biscuits,
pumpkin pie and devils food cake. There are cakes, pastries, cookies, soufflés,
cheesecakes, pies, tarts, savouries, and breads (all yeasted or flat or quick). There's an
indication of quantities, time in preparing, and time in baking. And metric tables of
equivalents to balance the avoirdupois listing of ingredients.

--AUSTRIAN DESSERTS AND PASTRIES (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 272 pages,
$29.95 CAD hard covers) is by Dietmar Fercher and Andrea Karrer; it was originally
published in German last year. Austrian food usually gets lost among the Germanic, but
desserts always manage to shine forth, especially such as Esterhazyschnitten (meringue
slices with butter cream), schaumrollen, or Bundt cake. Here are 180 preps guaranteed to
brighten up your Christmas buffet table.

B. For the more literate person, there are the histories and "memoirs" of writers, chefs,
and wine people. Some have called these memoirs "creative non-fiction", many with
embellishments and gilding. And most of them suffer from a lack of indexing, which
makes it difficult to find what the writer said about another person or subject. But this
also avoids the potential for lawsuits and disjointed noses. Nevertheless, they are
rewarding to read. Who cares about poetic license? Here then are some that stood out
from last year's run, and any of them would make great gifts for the reader. Here we go,
in no particular order (and one of them is a novel)

--SUMMERS IN FRANCE (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 224 pages, $35 US) is by Kathryn
Ireland, an interior designer who lived near Toulouse. This is about country life with
three kids in France, in the Tarn-et-Garonne area in south France. She records events,
including her excursions to towns, markets, the house she lives in, her cow barn, gardens,
and outdoor eating. It is also useful for the quality photos.

--FOLKS, THIS AIN'T NORMAL (Center Street, 2011, 361 pages, $28.99 CAD) is by
the irrepressible Joel Salatin, a third-generation Shenandoah Valley organic farmer
feeding some 4000 families and 50 restaurants. This is his seventh book on local farming
issues. Here he gives "a farmer's advice for happier hens, healthier people and a better
world", with material from his earlier self-published books and magazine writing.
Eclectic topics abound, including getting the US government out of the food regulation
business. And thank God for an index which ties it all together!! Good agrarian reading.

--FOUR KITCHENS (Grand Central Publishing, 2011, 337 pages, $27.99 US) is by
Lauren Shockey, who trained at the French Culinary Institute and has an MA in food
studies at NYU. This memoir refers to her cooking career in New York, Hanoi, Tel Aviv,
and Paris working in four kitchens. In a sense, hers is a female perspective and
counterpart to Anthony Bourdain. While there is a scattering of recipes, the preps are not
indexed and could be hard to find again.

--SEMI-SWEET; a novel (Hachette, 2010, 2011 in North America, 365 pages, $15.50
CAD) is the story about love and cup cakes. It's by Roisin Meaney of Ireland, a clone of
Maeve Binchy-style. The heroine opens a cup cake shop in Clongaruin, Ireland just as
her long-time boyfriend leaves her. These trials and tribulations, coupled with food, are
sure to pass the time nicely over the holidays.

--BREAKING BREAD (University of California Press, 2010, 2011, 283 pages, $18.95
US soft covers) is about recipes and stories from immigrant kitchens. This is the
paperback reprint of the 2010 book. Lynne Christy Anderson, an academic at Boston
College, pulled it together for the "California Studies in Food and Culture" series,
number 29. These are stories of hand-rolled pasta, homemade chutney, backyard gardens,
local markets, foraging, and so forth, as recounted through memories, recipes and
culinary traditions of immigrants. The preps include dolmades (Greece), adobo
(Philippines), peixada (Brazil), and quesadilla (Salvador). Well-worth a read, although an
index might have been useful for the 25 stories and 25 recipes.

--THE BRISKET BOOK (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2011, 208 pages, $34.99 CAD
hard covers) is by food writer and cookbook author (at least six) Stephanie Pierson. So
far as I know, this is the first cookbook devoted to brisket, with recipes coming from
celebrity chefs and authors. Of course, the book is meant for meat-lovers, principally that
guy who is hard to buy for at Christmas time. It is loaded with personal accounts and
stories and memoir-like material from connoisseurs and chefs. I have always found it
difficult to get brisket in Toronto: it seems to go directly to restaurants or smokehouses.
Along with chicken livers and sweetbreads, brisket is definitely a speciality, "order in
advance" item. So here are a variety of 30 preps, interviews with chefs, photos, graphics
(including cartoons), all put together in a fun sort of way (complete with index).

--MAN WITH A PAN (Algonquin Books, 2011, 326 pages $18.95 CAD) is from John
Donohue, an editor at the New Yorker. This is a book about men who cook for their
families. He's found 34 well-know culinary men such as Mario Batali, Mark Bittman,
Mark Kurlansky, and Thomas Keller who tell about their cooking done at home: their
roles, how they came to it, and how they feel about it.. Along the way are revealed the
best times to shop, assigning gender roles to gay couples, explaining vegetarianism to
kids, advice on scheduling, and the like. It's illustrated with 21 food cartoons from the
New Yorker, and it includes recipes (unfortunately, unindexed). Some writers have
suggested books and cookbooks to read such as those of Julia Child and Marcella Hazan.
There's an uneven writing style but the spirit is terrific for the stories.

--NEW MEXICO TASTY RECIPES (Gibbs Smith, 2011, $8.99 US paper covers) is by
Cleofas M. Javamillo. It's only 34 pages long, with 75 recipes, but it was originally
published in 1939. These are Spanish recipes as used in New Mexico, and include pipian,
albondigas, chile caribe, pozole, quesadias, potajes sabroses. Additional material covers
the traditional use of Hispanic food from other sources. There are some menus, and the
preps run in narrative style. This can also double as a stocking stuffer for that particular
person.

--READING BETWEEN THE WINES (University of California Press, 2010, 2011, 189
pages, $17.95 US paper covers) is by Terry Theise, an award-winning wine writer and
US wine importer. He makes the case for artisanal wine producers in this idiosyncratic
memoir-like account of the beauty of the wine experience. Of course, it helps that he
imports such boutique wines. He specializes in German and Austrian wines, plus
Champagnes, and much of his focus is on these regions. His is another well-reasoned
argument against the 100-point scale of measurement of wine. A short book, but an
enjoyable read for the wine lover in your life.

--EATING MUD CRABS IN KANDAHAR (University of California Pr., 2011, 215
pages, $27.50 US hard covers) has stories of food during wartime, written by foreign
correspondents. This is not macho food, or even peasant food. This is about eating food
under extreme conditions during the past 20 years. Look to a North Korean dictator who
gorges while others starve, or drinking with an IRA cell, or siege food in Bosnia. Other
countries with "war zones": Pakistan, Gaza and Israel, El Salvador, Haiti, Iran,
Afghanistan, Somalia, Iraq, Georgia, Rwanda, It is all about survival and emergency
rations too. Some of it is humour as well. The book reminds us to be thankful over the
Holiday season.

--MERCHANT OF SONOMA Chuck Williams (Weldon Owen, 2011, 245 pages,
$26.95 CAD hard covers) is a generous biography of one of the USA's leading food
pioneers. For over fifty years, the founder of Williams-Sonoma has introduced everything
from the basic to the sophisticated kitchen equipment for the home. It's a standard
biography by William Warren, but it is enlivened by the photographs provided by
Williams and his family. A first rate easy read for the holidays, with 34 indexed recipes
covering all courses.

--DINNER WITH TENNESSEE WILLIAMS (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 176 pages, $19.99
US) is by Greg Picolo, chef operator for The Bistro at Maison de Ville in New Orleans,
located across a hidden French quarter courtyard from where Williams lived. Picolo
annually puts on a Williams-themed menu dinner during the Williams Literary Festival.
Others involved here are Kenneth Holdritch, a Williams academic, and Troy Gilbert, a
free-lance journalist. The memoir details Williams living in New Orleans and his
association with food in his writings. There are 100 recipes, including such Williams'
faves as Waldorf salad, crawfish callas, veal sweet breads, and pecan-crusted black drum
fish.

--AMERICA THE EDIBLE (Rodale, 2011, 272 pages, $18.50 CAD) is by television host
of the US Travel Channel Adam Richman. It's a history of dining from nine US cities.
This is the paperback reissue of the 2010 hard bound book. He's covered Los Angeles
(twice), Honolulu, Brooklyn, St. Louis, Cleveland, Austin, San Francisco, Portland
Maine (lobster roll), and Savannah. There's about a half-dozen restaurants listed and
commented on, per location. Nine recipes are scattered. There are maps, quirky
comments, and lots of memoirish materials. If you know American cities, then you might
want to read this book over the holidays.

C. Family values Christmas gift cook books would have to include:

--SO SWEET! (Andrews McMeel, 2011, 136 pages, $17.50 CAD hard covers) comes
from the Sur La Table chain of cooking stores. It's good value for Christmas, with 50
recipes for cookies, cupcakes, whoopee pies, and baked doughnuts. Kids can do this stuff
too. Flavours are emphasized, such as sweet, salty, chocolatey, fruity and nutty.

--SWEET TREATS (CICO Books, 2011, 128 pages, $24.95 CAD) is loaded with ideas
for making, decorating and gifting desserts. Designer Laura Tabor gives 35 step-by-step
recipes for cakes, cookies and candies. The techniques include decorations, some of
which are painstaking. There are chocolate cameos, marshmallow pearls, Faberge-like
Easter eggs, Valentine fondant locket, candy cufflinks, and more. A fun book.

--CELEBRATING PANCAKES, WAFFLES AND CREPES (Leisure Arts, 2011, 144
pages, $14.95US paper covers) is by Avner Laskin, a chef and cookbook author. This is
something that every kid likes to make, so it is perfect for families. My wife likes
waffles, I like crepes, but we'll settle on any of these. Laskin gives the basics of pulling
together a batter, and the use of some equipment (waffle makers), and then goes on to
explore separately pancakes, waffles and crepes, both sweet and savoury. There are just
under 100 recipes, with the lowest number going over to crepes (too bad for me). But lots
of ideas and variations for toppings and fillings.

--POP BAKERY (CICO Books, 2011, 64 pages, $18.95 CAD) is another fun book with
25 preps for cakeballs on sticks, meant for kids. There's panda pops, Russian dolls pops
(don't ask), skull pops and more.

--MY FAMILY TABLE; a passionate plea for home cooking (Andrews McMeel, 2011,
264 pages, $40 CAD hard covers) is by John Besh, award-winning chef and creator of
seven acclaimed New Orleans restaurants, plus gigs on Food Network, PBS, and Today
show. He specializes in local heritage and ingredients of New Orleans (his "My New
Orleans" was acclaimed last year). Here, he emphasizes the act and art of family cooking.
His kitchen wisdoms, strewn among the 140 preps, include master recipes such as
Creamy Any Vegetable Soup and Risotto of Almost Anything. There's a heavy
Louisiana-Deep South influence here, but it is useful for such topics as Sunday suppers,
the big casserole meal, school night cooking, breakfast with the kids, fried chicken, BBQ,
brunch, desserts, and holidays.

--ULTIMATE COOKIES (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 272 pages, $24.99 US paper covers) is by
Julia M. Usher, who writes for Dessert Professional. As well, she has designed desserts
for weddings (and written about them) and other parties, many one-of-a-kind. Here she
takes on cookie design. There's the basic cookie dough, but it is all in the decorations. In
addition to lots of templates, there are extremely detailed instructions on how to make the
decorations and how to apply them. A parchment pastry cone, for example, is a must.
Typical creations include, just for Christmas, wreaths and holly, snowmen, santas,
reindeers, sleighs, gift boxes, and the like. Every major kid holiday is here, such as
Halloween and Easter. The photos of plated cookies are priceless. She has 40 cookie
projects, illustrated with 300 photos.

--THE SLOW COOK BOOK (DK Books, 2011, 352 pages, $28 CAD hard covers) is by
Helen Whinney. It covers pot roasts, casseroles, paellas, risottos, heavy soups, pilaffs,
ribs, stews, curries, gumbos, tagines, chillies, desserts and more in 200 recipes for both
techniques of slow cookers and/or regular ovens in each prep. There's lots of code for
service, freezing or not, prep times, cooking times, and even both avoirdupois and metric
measurements. For levels of complexity, it moves from meatballs to cassoulet.

--POPSICLES AND OTHER FROZEN TREATS (Ryland, Peters and Small, 2011, 64
pages, $18.95 CAD) is much the same, with granitas, water ices, and sherbets (all sweets,
no tomatoes).

--THE FOOD ALLERGY COOKBOOK (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 235 pages, $23.95
CAD hard covers) is by Carmel Nelson and Amra Ibrisimovic, both suffering from food
health issues. Nelson is the prime writer of this guide to living with allergies and pepping
up your main family meals. Here are 101 recipes for cooking allergen-free foods that
exclude the most common such as dairy, gluten, soy, corn, shellfish, and nuts. Each is
easy to prepare with readily available ingredients. There's a primer on healthy foods,
menus for meals (with recipes) and the usual arrangement by course. At the end , there is
a list of helpful websites and books.

--WHOOPIE PIES (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011, 64 pages, $18.95 CAD) shoes that we
have moved from cupcakes to filled cookie cakes. These come directly from the Amish,
such as chocolate and marshmallow fluff pies, raspberry and cream pies, and a variety of
party pies.

--I LOVE MEATBALLS! (Andrews McMeel, 2011, 156 pages, $22.99 CAD hard
covers) is by Rick Rodgers, cooking instructor and author of numerous cookbooks. It's a
tad pricey because it is hardback rather than the more approachable paperback (maybe
next year? As a reprint?). But you can safely find a good price on Amazon or Chapters.
Here are 50 different types, many traditional from different cultures (Italian, Thai,
Chinese, Greek, Swedish, Moroccan, Indian and others. In addition to meats, Rodgers
also uses seafood (I guess these would be fishballs). There are six categories, ranging
from apps to pasta, sandwiches, soups, and sauces. Good for the family: kids can make
these.

--FABULOUS BROWNIES (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011, 64 pages, $18 CAD, is by
Annie Rigg. These are cute and creative ideas for decorated brownies; there is a stunning
owl decoration on the back page. The first chapter covers the brownie basics. This is
followed by "pretty" petit fours types, then "indulgent" treats, and then "kids" (by and
for). There are 30 recipes plus variations.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Bokke Wines Portfolio Tasting

2011-12-11T15:24:00.001-05:00

11. The Date and Time: Thursday, November 24, 2011 5 PM to 9 PM

The Event: Bokke Wines Portfolio Tasting

The Venue: Spence Gallery

The Target Audience: media, private clients

The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines are not available at the LCBO but must be privately ordered.

The Quote/Background: There was also a chance to view the collections of the gallery, to taste Village Press olive oils (from New Zealand), and some cheeses from Leslieville cheeses. Bokke specializes in South African wines but also represents wines from other regions.

The Wines: About 19 wines were presented.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Nativo White 2010 Swartland, $24.60 retail (chenin and viognier)

-Lammershoek Syrah 2006 Swartland, $34.50

-Vilijoensdrift Serenity 2005 [Meritage], $23.95 at Vintages.

-Cape Dreams Sauvignon Blanc 2010, $14.25

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Nativo Red 2008 Swartland, $26.55 (5 red grapes plus viognier)

-Lammershoek Rose 2010, $19.75 (dry syrah)

-Lammershoek Roulette Blanc 2008, $16.95 Vintages (mostly chenin)

-Lammershoek Roulette Rouge 2006, $23.75 Vintages (Rhone style blend)

-Lammershoek Pinadoux 2005, $21 375 mL (dessert, pinotage)

-Cape Dreams Pinotage 2009, $16.95

-Rimu Grove Pinot Noir 2007 Nelson, $38.40

-Rimu Grove Pinot Gris 2010 Nelson, $33.50

-Domiciano Malbec 2009 Mendoza, $16.95

-Chesini Amarone Vint??, $72.32

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Rimu Grove Bronte Pinot Noir 2009 Nelson, $28.40

-Rimu Grove Chardonnay 2010 Nelson, $33.40

-Mad Housewife Merlot NV California, $14.25

The Food: smoked cheddar, Beemster vlaskaas cheese, Stilton, Bresse, Douanier from Quebec, breads, fruit, grapes, olives, biscuits.

The Downside: I was looking forward to some sausages made with Lammershoek Pinadoux, but, alas, they were not available.

The Upside: there was some fine Biltong dried meat.

The Contact Person: Eleanor.rigby1@rogers.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR DECEMBER 10, 2011

2011-12-07T09:40:00.001-05:00

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR DECEMBER 10, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available
for re-tasting from another bottle.

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Gray Monk Gewurztraminer 2009 VQA Okanagan: viscous, good body and
mouthfeel, tropical and orchard fruits, no Alsatian bitterness on
finish. +321588, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2008 VQA Niagara-On-The-Lake:
classic sophisticated LHR, first course aperitif, Gold Medal at OWA.
+277228, $16.95, QPR: 91.
3. Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Marlborough: savvy of the month, MVC,
twist top, 13.5% ABV. +616243, $17.95, QPR: 89.
4. Anne Boecklin Pinot Gris Reserve 2008 Alsace: voluptuous gris,
smooth on palate, mouthfilling fruity succulence. Gold Medalist.
+106831, $18.95, QPR: 90.
5. I Stefanini Il Selese Soave 2010: citric tones and pear drops, 12.5%
ABV. +247932, $14.95, QPR: 89.

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Maipe Reserve Malbec 2009 Mendoza: a big wine, 14% ABV with fruit,
mocha, dense mouthfeel, long length. +247320, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Apalta Vineyard Colchagua: a
bit hard now but very useful after another 6 months, 14.5% ABV.
+322586, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Maison Audebert & Fils Domaine du Grand Clos Bourgueil 2007:
wonderful herby cab franc, tasty and long finish, 12.5% ABV. Best with
food. +664789, $16.95, QPR: 89.
4. Chateau Rochecolombe Cotes du Rhone 2009: off-dry feel, 14.5% ABV
chunky that is 60% grenache and 40% syrah (which actually dominates),
fruity North American appeal. If you love this wine, call the agent
his phone number is writ large on the back label. Tell him Dino sent
you. +255034, $14.95, QPR: 90.
5. Katogi & Strofilia Xinomavro 2005 Naoussa: another little gem from
the Naoussa region, pick it up while you can (ripe and rich, longer
fruit, mature red, value, 13 % ABV). +249615, $17.95, QPR: 89.
6. Campigli Vallone Pierina Terre Nere Rosso di Montalcino 2007: light
but nicely aged, 12.5% ABV, off-dry cherries, toast, underbrush and
strawbs. +249524, $17.95, QPR: 89.
7. Quinta da Veiga Casa das Mouras Reserva 2005 Douro: very nicely
aged, new style fruity and oak kissed, 14% ABV. Gold Medal. +244756,
$18.95, QPR: 90.
8. Inurrieta Cuatrocientos 131 Crianza 2007 Navarra: gutsy, full body
and depth, some NA appeal but more earthy than fleshy. 14.5% ABV.
+246710, $15.95, QPR: 90.
9. Ramon Ramos Monte Toro Roble 2008 Toro: juicy, Tempranillo character
shines through, 14.9% ABV. +247783, $14.95, QPR: 90.
10. Taron Reserva 2004 Rioja: hard to beat value a mature Reserva
Rioja (14 months in US oak) for under twenty dollars. 13.5% ABV.
Delicious for a seven year old Rioja. +246728, $19.95, QPR: 91.

1. Robert Young Chardonnay 2007 Alexander Valley Sonoma, +670430,
$49.95 retail.
2. Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay 2009 Carneros Napa, +45583,
$59.95.
3. Cave de Turckheim Brand Riesling 2008 Alsace Grand Cru, +21303,
$24.95.
4. Maison Roche de Bellene Montagny 1er cru 2009, +233593, $24.95.
5. Roux Pere et Fils Meursault Blagny 1er cru 2009, +241141, $56.95.
6. Markus Molitor Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese 2008 QmP Mosel,
+249706, $24.95.
7. Le Clos Jordanne Talon Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Vinemount
Ridge, +143545, $40.
8. Beringer Napa Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, +91058,
$39.95.
9. Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Mendoza, +260919, $22.95.
10. Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block 2009 Western Cape, +129353,
$39.95.
11. Chateau Lyonnat Emotion 2008 Lussac Saint-Emilion, +243774, $21.95.
12. Chateau Rousseau de Sipian 2006 Medoc, +246637, $22.95.
13. Dom. Chanson Beaune Teurons 1er cru 2008, +84426, $43.95.
14. Mayard Clos du Calvaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2009, +728139, $34.95.
15. San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, +716266, $26.95
16. San Guido Le Difese 2009 IGT Toscana, +147876, $26.95
17. Tenuta Sette Ponti Grognolo 2008 IGT Toscana, +717636, $33.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

2011-12-05T16:16:00.001-05:00

1. Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2009 VQA NOTL +640516
Vintages, $16.95: uses exclusively the chardonnay clone 809 (15-year
old vines), an almost in-your-face aromatic honeysuckle beauty with
some "muscat" grapey quality. Unoaked, of course, and refreshing.
12.5%, useful for sipping or with lighter white meats.

2. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Merlot 2007 VQA NOTL, $14.45 +454991
General List: 13% ABV. Mix of cabernet sauvignon (60%), cabernet franc
(24%) plus merlot (16%) for that cooler climate Bordeaux-style blend.
Nine months in French oak. Expect cassis and bell pepper notes, all in
balance, ready to drink soon.

From Applewood Farm Winery (www.applewoodfarmwinery.com) in Stouffville
(all wines available at the winery):

1. Applewood Farm Winery Trio 2010, $14.95 for 750 mL: a juicy combo of a
third each of raspberry, black currant, and cranberry fruits, featuring both
off-dry and tart flavours, with an SC of 2. Absolutely delicious with the
fruit jumping out at you followed by bracing acidity. Great with savoury
foods. 13% ABV, twistoff-top.

2. Applewood Farm Winery Iced Apple Cider 2010, $19.95 for 375 mL:
incredible richness and tang, with an SC of 25. Created the same way as ice
wine (pressing frozen fruit), this Gold Medal winner comes in a new vintage.
Ready for release now, finished with a cork. Great apple tones.

3. Applewood Farm Winery Crazy Eights Raspberry Cider 2011, $3 for 341 mL
bottle (or $50 for a two-four): this gluten-free alternative to beer hits
the spot, with its rich and ripe raspberry tones. The winery has been making
it every year since 2006. This latest batch from the 2011 harvest is still
8.8% ABV, crown cap, and an SC of one that is barely perceptible. This has
to be my favorite all-time drink. I regularly buy six cases a year, and
always pay for my own tasting sample with a whole bottle. I own no stock,
etc. No conflict-of-interest here. Just value and flavour - something has to
be my fave, and this is it.

4. Applewood Farm Winery Smokin' Apple 2008, $14.95 for 375 mL: a nifty wine
for cooking with apple flavours - iced cider with black pepper and other
savoury spices, some hot, great for BBQs anytime of the year. 12% ABV, and
also available as a Chef Pack (a dozen for $120). Sounds terrific for the
Christmas bird or ham.

5. Applewood Farm Winery Rhubarb and Caramelized Onion Relish (it's almost a
chutney if it had had any raisins). It contains some of the aforementioned
smokin' apple wine, fermented rhubarb, onions, and other condiments. It's a
spread for any BBQ or dinner, not a drink, although I am sure that Matt
Passafiume, winemaker at Applewood, could probably do an alcoholic version.
Maybe next year. $6 for a medium-sized jar.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com\

Sip & Try Befoire You Buy Ontario Wine, Nov 30 tasting

2011-12-04T16:00:00.001-05:00

The Date and Time: Wednesday, November 30, 2011
The Event: "Sip & Try Before You Buy" -- tasting of Ontario wines,
provided by the Ontario Wine Society.
The Venue: U of T Faculty Club
The Target Audience: members and friends of OWS
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available from the wineries
and/or from www.winerytohome.com.
The Quote/Background: About 42 Ontario wineries participated, with over
150 wines shown. The floor was jammed with consumers tasting and
spitting wines.
The Wines: I did not try every wine. Nobody was here from the Winery
and Grower Alliance of Ontario, except for two wineries from Diamond
Estates (Dan Aykroyd and Lakeview).

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cave Spring Riesling Estate 2004, $25
-Cave Spring Chardonnay Estate 2003, $30
-Creekside Laura's White 2009, $18.95
-Flat Rock Pinot Noir Reserve 2009, $45
-Flat Rock Chardonnay 2008, $16.95
-Flat Rock Rogue Concoction 2010 White, $30.20
-Good Earth Chardonnay 2009, $22
-Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut Rose NV, $29.95
-Hidden Bench Riesling 2009, $24
-Hidden Bench Chardonnay 2009, $32
-Huff Cuvee Peter F. Huff Sparkling 2008, $39.95
-Kacaba Meritage Reserve 2007, $44.95
-Konzelmann Gewurztraminer 2010, $17.20
-Ravine Cabernet Franc Reserve 2008, $55
-Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay 2009, $50
-Tawse Meritage 2009, $58.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-13th Street Old Vines Riesling 2008, $19.95
-13th Street Essence Pinot Noir 2009, $44.95
-Alvento Vio Viognier 2008, $19.95
-Between the Lines Gewurztraminer 2010, $13.95
-Burning Kiln Cureman's Chardonnay 2010, $24.95
-Creekside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $34.95
-Dan Aykroyd Signature Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $29.95
-Dan Aykroyd Signature Reserve Fume Blanc 2007, $29.95
-Fielding Riesling Estate 2010, $19.15
-Fielding Viognier 2010, $31.15
-Fielding Chardonnay 2010, $23.15
-Fielding Meritage 2007, $60.15
-Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008, $19.95
-Hidden Bench Pinot Noir 2009, $38
-Hidden Bench Terroir Cache Meritage 2008, $35
-Hinterbrook Pinot Noir 2010, $25
-Hinterbrook Sauvignon Blanc 2010, $17
-Hinterbrook Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2010, $19
-Huff Southbay Chardonnay 2009, $29.95
-Kacaba Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007, $44.95
-Karlo Riesling Barrel Fermented 2010, $22
-Konzelmann Riesling Grand Reserve Classic 2009, $22.20
-Lakeview Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2009, $17.95
-Lailey Chardonnay 2008, $20.20
-Lailey Syrah 2009 Niagara River, $27.20
-Malivoire Moira Chardonnay 2008, $39.95
-Malivoire Gewurztraminer 2010, $24.95
-Niagara College Dean's List Chardonnay 2009, $28.15
-Ravine Chardonnay 2010, $24
-Rosehall Run Pinot Noir Rosehill Vineyard 2009, $39
-Stanners Chardonnay Vinemount Ridge 2009, $25
-Stoney Ridge Pinot Noir 2009 Excellence, $35
-Stoney Ridge Chardonnay 2009 Excellence, $32
-Tawse Chardonnay Estate 2009, $34.95
-Tawse Van Bers Cabernet Franc 2008, $47.95

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-13th Street Chardonnay June's Vineyard, $19.95
-Cave Spring Riesling CSV, $35
-Carrick Wines Forty Hills Rose2010, $17
-Flat Rock Riesling 2010, $16.95
-Green Lane Pinot Gris60/Riesling40 2010, $16.95
-Keint he Pinot Meunier Foxtail Vineyard 2009, $42
-Lacey Chardonnay 2009, $29
-Ravine Meritage 2010, $24.95
-Ridge Road Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2009, $16.95
-Rosehall Run Chardonnay Rosehall Vineyard 2009, $35
-Rosehall Run Pinot Noir Cuvee County 2009, $21.95
-Sprucewood Shores Merlot Reserve 2008, $25.15
-Stanners Pinot Noir 2009, $35

The Food: spring rolls and purses, liverwurst pate, breads.
The Downside: was I the only media person there? I did not see anybody
else.
The Upside: a great opportunity to taste Ontario wines not usually
shown, including the Cave Spring library wines (done to celebrate their
25th anniversary).
The Contact Person: yvonnken@pathcom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Bottega Prosecco and grappa tasting with Sandro Bottega.

2011-12-03T15:50:00.001-05:00

4. The Date and Time: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 2:30 PM to 6PM

The Event: Bottega Prosecco and grappa tasting with Sandro Bottega.

The Venue: National Club

The Target Audience: wine press and lifestyle writers about two dozen in all.

The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available through the normal distribution channels. The Ontario agent is Noble Estates.

The Quote/Background: Sandro, an enthusiastic speaker, led us through the tasting, beginning with a history of winemaking in the region. Prosecco should be drunk fresh, in under a year. He emphasized how we should taste grappa, a lot like nosing a Scotch or cognac. His company also makes the hand-blown bottles for the grappa.

The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vino dell'amore Moscato Petalo NV, 6.5% ABV +588780, $13.05

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Bottega Vino dei Poeti Rose NV, 11.5% ABV, made with pinot nero and raboso. $12.95, coming to LCBO.

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vino dei Poeti Prosecco NV, 11% ABV, +897702, $13.80

We also nosed and tasted the Bottega Club Grappa (+478156, $29.60), the most popular at the LCBO. Grappa Prosecco ($49.95) and Grappa di Moscato ($46.95) were very aromatic, reflective of the glera and muscat grapes. But they are not yet available in this market. The most expressive was the Grappa Amarone, with a healthy chocolate aroma. It'll be here soon at Vintages for $54.95. As an added treat, we also sampled the Giandula Bottega, a liqueur composed of grappa, milk cream, chocolate, hazelnuts to 17% ABV. It's +600379 at $27.15.

The Food: there was a full-scale luncheon buffet (or light supper), with salads, charcuterie, smoked salmon, veggie ravioli, skewered chicken, cheeses, and a wide range of petit fours with coffee. All the proseccos and grappas were available for re-tasting.

The Downside: The first half hour of the seminar was too general, and I wondered if Sandro's enthusiasm was going to last through the whole presentation. It did.

The Upside: a comparative grappa tasting led by an expert.

The Contact Person: spuritt@hotmail.com and noble@nobleestates.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

French Wine Connection, Organiic and Biodynamic wines

2011-12-02T16:29:00.001-05:00

The Date and Time: Monday November 7, 2011 11AM to 5 PM

The Event: French Wine Connection Organic and Biodynamic Wines

The Venue: Park Hyatt Roof Top

The Target Audience: wine media, wine trade.

The Availability/Catalogue: about half the wineries already had agents or were about to sign on. Most everything is private order at this point, although some are at Vintages or in Consignment.

The Quote/Background: it was a very well attended show, quite crowded. There were a lot of Evian and Badoit waters.

The Wines: Some of the wines were "in transition". I did not taste every wine. Prices are given when offered.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Brocard Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2009 (Prevedello & Mathews)

-Caves Jean Bourdy Chardonnay Cotes du Jura 1959 ($305, MCO)

-Andrieu Moulin Des Nonnes 2010 Languedoc-Roussillon Blanc

-Petit Roubie Syrah 2010 Languedoc-Roussillon

-Petit Roubie L'Arbre Blanc 2006 Languedoc-Roussillon

-Le Clos de Caveau Lao Muse 2007 Rouge Vacqueyras (Case for Wine)

-Vignobles Gilles Louvet O Cabernet/Merlot 2010 IGP Oc (Eurovintage)

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Seigneurs de Pommyers 2008 Bordeaux Rouge

-Chateau des Seigneurs de Pommyers 2009 Bordeaux Rouge

-Chateau Pouchaud-Larquey 2008 Bordeaux Rouge

-Chateau de Lagarde L de Lagarde 2010 Bordeaux Rouge

-Chateau de Lagarde L'Authentique 2010 Bordeaux Rouge

-Chateau de Lagarde 2010 Bordeaux Blanc

-Chateau de Lagarde La Joly 2009 Bordeaux Superieur Rouge, 12 Euros

-Brocard Chablis La Boissonneuse 2009 (Prevedello & Mathews)

-Brocard Chablis Vau de Vey 1er cru 2009 (Prevedello & Mathews)

-Brocard Chablis Cote de Lechet 1er cru 2009 (Prevedello & Mathews)

-Brocard Chablis Vaulorent 1er cru 2009 (Prevedello & Mathews)

-Renaud Boyer Saint Romain 2010

-Renaud Boyer Bourgogne Blanc 2010

-Caves Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon 2003 ($125, MCO)

-Andrieu Olivier 2010 Languedoc-Roussillon Blanc

-Petit Roubie Picpoul de Pinet 2010 Languedoc-Roussillon

-Valescure Gris de Gris Domaine de la Fourmi 2010 Rose

-Domaine du Closel Savennieres Le Clos du Papillon 2007

-La Croix des Pins Cuvee Phi 2006 Ventoux Rouge

-Le Clos de Caveau Fruit Sauvage 2009 Rouge Vacqueyras ($23, Case for Wine)

-Le Clos de Caveau Carmin Brillant 2009 Rouge Vacqueyras (Case for Wine)

-Vignoble La Coterie Vaucluse 2010 (Rouge et Blanc)

-Vignoble Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2010 (Rouge et Blanc)

-Vin Attitude Generations Futures 2010 Ventoux (Kylix)

-Vignobles Gilles Louvet Pech Matelles Marselan 2010 IGP Bouches du Rhone +148684, $13.95 Vintages

-Vignobles Gilles Louvet O Chardonnay 2010 IGP Oc (Eurovintage)

-Vignobles Gilles Louvet Esprit du Sud 2010 +104919 $14.95 Vintages

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Seigneurs de Pommyers 2010 Bordeaux Entre-Deux-Mers, 4.50 Euros

-Chateau Pouchaud-Larquey 2009 Bordeaux Rouge

-Chateau Pouchaud-Larquey 2010 Bordeaux Entre-Deux-Mers, 4.40 Euros

-Chateau de Lagarde Cuvee Prestige 2009 Bordeaux Rouge

-Renaud Boyer Puligny Montrachet 2010

-Caves Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura 2007 Rouge ($26, MCO)

-Andrieu Domaine La Reze 2010 Languedoc-Roussillon Blanc

-Petit Roubie Merlot 2010 Languedoc-Roussillon

-Petit Roubie Tannat 2010 Languedoc-Roussillon

-Petit Roubie Le P'tit Roublie Blanc 2010 Languedoc-Roussillon

-La Croix des Pins 2009 Ventoux Blanc

-Vin Attitude Generations Futures 2010 Rhone (Kylix)

-Vignobles Gilles Louvet O Sauvignon 2010 IGP Oc (Eurovintage)

The Food: cheeses, fruits, breads, crackers, cold cuts.

The Downside: unfortunately, I arrived late, at 3 PM, and they had almost run out of food.

The Upside: it was good to see a lot of people.

The Contact Person: yannick.reynaud.int@ubifrance.fr

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com