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Monday, November 17, 2008

TRADE TASTING: Icon Wines of South Australia, October 8, 2008

The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008    1 PM to 3 PM

The Event: A tasting of the Wines of South Australia, led by the Honourable Rory McEwen (the SA Minister for Agriculture) and Cameron Ashmead (Elderton Wines). They provided a good commentary onm the Oz wine industry today.

The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Event Kitchen

The Target Audience: wine writers, agents and importers.

The Availability/Catalogue: variously available.

The Quote: Instead of a big show, the Australians are highlighting regional differences and icon wines. They are leading several classes in several different parts of Ontario throughout the year.

The Wines: Every region of South Australia had a wine here except for Riverland. Coonawarra had two wines. All the wines were poured and after the tasting there was a q and a with the two speakers. But prices were hard to come by, with retail prices being vague for Ontario.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Pewsey Vale The Contours Eden Valley Riesling 2002

-Penley Estate Chertsey Cabernet Sauvignon57, Cabernet Franc15, Merlot28 Coonawarra 2005 ($50?)

-Elderton Wines Command Shiraz 2004 Barossa Valley – 100 year old vines

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-O'Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling Clare Valley 2008

-Kelermeister Tempranillo 2005 Adelaide Hills/Barossa Valley

-Wirra Wirra RSW Shiraz 2006 McLaren Vale ($50?)

 

*** Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Di Giorgio Family Coonawarra Sparkling Pinot Noir 2007

-Zonte's Footstep Pinot Grigio 2007 Langhorne Creek

 

The Food: cheese platter and breads and biscuits.

The Downside: there were eight wines, but it seemed a bit rushed, and started a bit late, finishing well after 3 PM.

The Upside: a chance to commingle with agents,

The Contact Person: marie.ross@austrade.gov.au

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.

 

 
 
 

Sunday, November 16, 2008

TRADE TASTING: Madeira Lunch and Tasting, Oct 6, 2008

The Time and Date: Monday, October 6, 2008  11:30 AM to 6 PM

The Event: a lunch to celebrate Madeira wines, followed by a trade tasting.

The Venue: University Club, University Avenue.

The Target Audience: wine media and LCBO product consultants.

The Availability/Catalogue: spotty, mostly private order, some Vintages.

The Quote: "None of the Madeiras seemed to be incorporated into the meal's preps, nor did those that accompanied the preps elevate the taste profiles."

The Wines: I could not taste all of the wines.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henriques & Henriques Sercial Madeira 10 Year Old (Cavima Enterprises)

-Henriques & Henriques Bual 1980

-Blandy's 10 Year Old Sercial Madeira (Symington Family Brands)

-Blandy's Bual 1977

-Justino's Madeira Colheita 1995 (RKW Wine Imports)

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 15 Year Old

-Henriques & Henriques Malmsey 15 year old

-Blandy's Malmsey 10 Year Old

-Justino's Madeira Fine Dry 10 Years (RKW Wine Imports)

-Justino's Madeira Verdelho 10 Years (RKW Wine Imports)

 

The Food: Madeira was served at each course.

 Chorizos empanadas, Shrimp beurre blanc and Smoked salmon, with Justino Fine Dry 5 Year Old, Blandy's 10 Year Old Special and Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Sercial.  Beef Consomme with Madeira and juliennes of vegetables came next, with Justino 10 Year Old Verdelho and Blandy's 10 Year Old Verdelho. Half a dozen freshly shucked Oysters on ice and Champagne sorbet: the Madeiras were too sweet for these. Grain fed Guinea Hen and a Port and Veal jus, bouquetiere of broccoli, asparagus, and potato vegetables, with Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Bual. Hello? Port? Well, at least it is Portuguese. Why not Madeira? For dessert, Chocolate crème brule with strawberries dipped in chocolate, with Justino Fine Rich 10 Year Old, Blandy's 10 Year Old Malmsey and Henriques & Henriques 15 Year Old Malmsey. Canadian cheeses with Henriques & Henriques Bual 1980.

The Downside: the waiters kept trying to clear our Madeira glasses, but I needed them to cross-compare with the different courses we were being served. At the trade portion, the tables were too cramped to allow for zipping in and out, and writing notes.

The Upside: wow, some great wines, and it has been about 10 years since the last comprehensive Madeira tasting in Toronto.

The Contact Person: William.delgado@portugalglobal.pt

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 

 
 
 

Saturday, November 15, 2008

TRADE TASTING: Tommasi, October 3, 2008

 The Time and Date: Friday, October 3, 2008  2:30 PM to 5 PM

The Event: A table top tasting of Tommasi Viticoltori – Veneto wines with Pierangelo Tommasi. There was also a tasting of Maremma Toscana Poggio al Tufo wines, owned by Tommasi. The agency is Lorac who showed a dozen wines.

The Venue: National Club, Bay Street

The Target Audience: wine writers and LCBO product consultants.

The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines but one were available.

The Quote: "All the wines come from their own vineyards. They are the largest landholder within the region, with 135 Ha (95 Ha under vine)". Veneto wines are a hot category at the LCBO these days.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Lugana Le Fornaci 2007, $17.95, +13284

-Merlot Le Prunee 2005 IGT, $17.95, +24505

-Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, $19.95, +910430

-Amarone Classico 2000 (not available)

-Ca Florian Amarone Classico 2000, $75 (great price) – 25 cases only.

-Amarone Classico 2004, $52.50, +356220 (will be available in many sizes: 375 mL, 750 mL, and 1.5 Litres)

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Poggio al Tufo Alicante IGT Maremma Toscana 2006, $19.95, +13755

-Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo IGT Maremma Toscana 2005, $18.95, +70797(sangiovese60/cabernetsauvignon40), $18.95

 

*** Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Poggio al Tufo Vermentino IGT Maremma Toscana 2006, $17.95

-Tommasi Pinot Grigio Le Rosse 2007, $17.95, +910497

-Tommasi Soave Classico Le Volpare 2007, $17.95, +70870

-Tommasi Chiaretto ai Bardolino Rose 2007, $12.95, +685057

-Tommasi Valpollicella 2007, $13.95, +669150

 

The Food: delicious aged cheese, three kinds of pates, breads.

The Downside: most of the wine writers had just slogged through a whole pile of wines at Vintages, and our palates needed refreshing.

The Upside: good company with Lorac, as always.

The Contact Person: lorac@bellnet.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

 

 

 
 
 

Saturday, November 8, 2008

OCTOBER 2008: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" from Vintages

"RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE"
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants may consider offering these good value wines at a $10
markup; the wines are ready to enjoy right now. Consumers could buy at
the LCBO and bring to those restaurants with corkage programs.
OCT 11 Vintages Release
 
1.Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinette 1998 Kaseler Mosel,
+940809, $20.95.
2.Domdechant Werner Riesling Spatlese 2003 Hochheimer Rheingau,
+654830, $25.95.
3. Castello Della Sala Cervaro Della Sala 2006 Umbria, +512376, $54.95
4. Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Napa, +904532, $44.95.
5. Syan Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Pyrenees Victoria, +72629,
$43.95.
6. Chateau Mazeris 2005 Canon-Fronsac, +86330, $27.95.
7. Domaine Rochevine Saint-Joseph 2005, +733923, $27.95.
8. Montirius Vacqueyras Le Clos 2005, +76547, $28.95. Organic.
9. Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2004, +384552,
$29.95.
10. Cchia Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005, +84087, $39.95.
11. Senorio De P.Pecina Reserva 1999 Rioja, +82156, $34.95.
October 25 Vintages  Release
 
1. Murphy-Goode Chardonnay 2006 Sonoma, +745, $21.95
2. Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Marlborough, +677450, $21.95
3. Leon Beyer Riesling Les Ecaillers 2005 Alsace, +955401, $29.95.
4. Schloss Schonborn Riesling Spatlese 1991 Hochheimer Domdechaney,
9.5% ABV, +81703, $29.95.
5. Beaulieu Vineyard Zinfandel 2005 Napa, +80242, $25.95.
6. Edward Sellers Vertigo 2005 Paso Robles, +77875, $39.95.
7. Kenwood Merlot 2005 Sonoma, +717348, $22.95.
8. Seghesio Zinfandel 2006 Sonoma, +942151, $24.95.
9. Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2005
Adelaide Hills, +590265, $31.95.
10. Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, +84996, $24.95.
11. Chateau Brillette 2003 Moulis-en-Medoc, +86652, $42.95.
12. Chapelle Lenclos Madiran 2003, +76356, $25.95.
13. Antonio Roncolato Amarone Della Valipolicella 2005, +81778, $43.95.
 
 
 

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

BOOK REVIEW: THE END OF FOOD (Houghton Mifflin, 2008) by Paul Roberts

THE END OF FOOD (Houghton Mifflin, 2008, 390 pages, ISBN 978-0-618-
60623-8, $26 US hard covers) is by Paul Roberts, an author who writes
on resource economics and politics for magazines and newspapers. He
wrote the doomsday "The End of Oil" in 2004, and now the failure of the
modern food economy is his new theme. Needless to say, his book is
endorsed by Michael Pollan (In Defense of Food). This is not a hard
book to get in to, although it is depressing. It certainly is a timely
book because of the excessive rise in food prices since January 2008.
His scope is broad, ranging from making food to marketing food and to
moving what we eat. Of course, it is all entwined with OIL, his
previous book. So he has done his basic research. And there are
extremes here: the "haves" are now obese while the "have-nots" are
starving. What's new and different over the past few years have been
the incredible amount of international investments and speculative food
futures markets (commodity exchanges). With the entrance of China as a
global player, the whole situation has been compounded. Commodity
producers have taken over: they spend money on political campaign
contributions, lobbying, food security, and transportation (read: oil)
costs. They believe in ethanol which is raising grain prices. They set
prices yet get government subsidies. Their profit margins grow, they
don't cover deficiencies. They influence trade policies. Worst still,
they have managed to convince pension funds to buy into the
investments. There are long-term costs associated with commodity
producers, and we need to be aware of them.
Audience and level of use: foodies, consumers, concerned people
everywhere.
Some interesting or unusual facts: high volume production creates many
food-borne illnesses and food of declining nutritional value. It costs
money to fix these, so it is all counter-productive.
The downside to this book: some circumstances over the past six months
have both augmented and deflected the points he has made. Just another
reason why the book format is outdated when it comes to topical issues.
The upside to this book: there are extensive endnotes and a
bibliography (strangely enough, though, he does not cite Marion
Nestle's 2006 book "What to Eat" although her two other books are
there).
Quality/Price Rating: 92.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Saturday, November 1, 2008

TRADE TASTING: Two Hand, Grosset, Glaymond, Oct 2, 2008

 
 The Time and Date: Thursday, October 2, 2008   mid-afternoon to 7 PM

The Event: a tasting of Australian wines repped by B & W Wines (Two Hands, Penley, Grosset, Glaymond, Clarendon Hills).

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street

The Target Audience: wine media.

The Availability/Catalogue: wines are either available or by consignment or coming in 2009.

The Quote: "The Sales Manager from Two Hands was in town for a concurrent function, and brought with him a bottle of each of their current releases for tasting by writers."

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Two Hands Shiraz Angels Share McLaren Vale 2007, screwcap, $27.95, May 2009 +9480

-Two Hands Shiraz/Grenache Brave Faces Barossa Valley 2007, screwcap, $35, March 2009, +660035

-Grosset Bordeaux Blend Gaia Clare Valley 2005, %52, here now, +73064

-Glaymond Shiraz Distinction Barossa Valley 2004, $126, here now, +64915

-Two Hands Shiraz Coach House Block Single Vineyard Seppeltsfield Road Barossa Valley 2006, $46, January 2009, +9563

-Two Hands Shiraz Ares Barossa Valley 2005, $100, here now, +64816

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Set of Five, all here now, all Shiraz, but from different regions:  Two Hands Lily's Garden McLaren Vale 2006, $65, +683086

Two Hands Bella's Garden Barossa Valley 2006, $65, +636407

Two Hands Sophie's Garden Padthaway 2006. $60, +62380

Two Hands Max's Garden Heathcote 2007, $50, +60293

Two Hands Harry & Edwards Garden Langhorne Creek 2007, $50, +60285

-Five Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon SGS Yarra Valley 2005, $52.95, here, +72686

-Glaymond Shiraz60/Mataro40 Landrace Barossa Valley 2005, $46, here, +658492.

 

*** Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Two Hands Moscato Brilliant Disguise Barossa Valley, $19.95 500 mL, consignment, 7% ABV.

-Two Hands Shiraz Gnarly Dudes Barossa Valley 2007, $27.95, May 2009, +660043.

-Two Hands Shiraz/Cabernet The Bull and the Bear Barossa Valley 2006, $50, May 23 2009, +9464.

-Grosset Riesling Polish Hill Clare Valley 2007, $43.95, here, +72900

-Glaymond Grenache Gerhard Barossa Valley 2005, $47.95, here, +63867

 

The Food: cheeses, pierogies, charcuterie, pate, artisanal breads.

The Downside: we had less than a day's notice, and we had already been to two other functions.

The Upside: a good opportunity to taste some rare wines.

The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.

 
 
 

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Yalumba Wine Seminar, Thursday, Oct 2, 2008

 

The Time and Date: Thursday October 2, 2008  2:30PM to 4 PM

The Event: Yalumba wine seminar with Jane Ferrari

The Venue: Biff's, Front Street

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines are available or will be.

The Quote: "Yalumba imports oak staves from France and America, and then air-dries this oak for a few Barossan summers and winters to leach sappy-bitter characteristics from the wood".

The Wines: the seminar had seven wines --

 

1. Yalumba Barossa Viognier Eden Valley 2006 (+954644, $22.95) – stored for a short time in third year oak (previously inhabited with chardonnay). Stone fruit, rich and intense.

2. Yalumba Barossa Wild Ferment Chardonnay Eden Valley 200 (+528406, $19.95) – slightly off-dry, toasty wood tones, more stone fruit.

3. Yalumba Barossa Bush Vine Grenache Eden Valley 2006 (+531228, $20) –

begins tart, opens up to become more a food wine with some Euro character, generous red fruit.

4. Yalumba Barossa Shiraz & Viognier Eden Valley 2005 (+524926, $19.95) – prominent mocha tones, peppery, red and black fruits, long finish.

5. Yalumba Barossa Patchwork Shiraz Eden Valley 2006 (+98392, $19.95) – from the valley floor, where the overview looks at a patchwork design of vineyards. Deep, dark and delicious, broad fruit, powerful but not aggressive, needs time.

6. Yalumba Barossa Hand Picked Shiraz & Viognier 2004 (+631028, $41.95) – more mocha, mouthfilling, soft and fruity and aromatic. Red fruits. Could be ready now.

7. Yalumba Barossa The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2006 (+449017, $109.95) – concentrated and stylish elegance, from seven vineyards; long, long engaging finish. Smokey chocolate, thick. Could use more time.

 

The Food: breads and water

The Downside: it was slightly rushed, and I felt that we needed a full two hours.

The Upside: a chance to actually talk to the winemaker.

The Contact Person: danalee.harris@shaw.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.

 

 
 
 

Sunday, October 26, 2008

TRADE TASTING: Le Clos Jordanne range, Oct 14, 2008

 The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 14, 2008   10 AM to 9 PM

The Event: tasting of Clos Jordanne wines, with Jay Wright (Vincor CEO), Jean-Charles Boisset (Boisset VP), Thomas Bachelder (winemaker) and Sebastien Jaquey (assistant winemaker). There was constant talk from the head table for about two hours, most of it enlightening as Bachelder reviewed all of the previous vintages.

The Venue: Currie Hall at the National Ballet School.

The Target Audience: in the morning and for lunch, the wine media. In the afternoon, the trade, and at night, private customers.

The Availability/Catalogue: everything is, or will be, available.

The Quote: "2006 was a difficult year".

The Wines: all wines are 2006 vintage, and all wines are sold by the six pack case.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2006, 130 cases, $65, Classics November 8:  apple, vanillin, oak, more minerals. Coats the palate.  My fave of the tasting, both red and white.

-Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, 120 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: toast, vanilla, orange marmalade, minerals. Mouthfilling and long finish.

-La Petite Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, 300 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: raspberry, pumpkin spices, cinnamon, elegant.

-Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir 2006, 190  cases, $70, Classics November 8, 2008: spicy cherries, some MVC for pinot noir, longer finish.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2006, 90 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: apple, peach, oak, toast. Midweight palate Burgundian style.

-Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2006, 230 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: black raspberry, earthy, spicy, cranberries, intense,

-Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, 275 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: raspberry, earthy, soft, very sophisticated. Cranberries.

 

*** Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Village Reserve Chardonnay 2006, 721 cases, $30, available December 6: apples with light vanillin, some green notes, Hautes Cotes style.

-Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2006, 2000 cases, $30, available Dec 6: plum, cherry and raisins, some stone fruit.

 

The Food: lunch was family style, with communal tables. We were served almost as much as we wanted of organic mesclun and a tomato-mozzarella salad, mashed potatoes and roasted root veggies, and brussels sprouts and beans provencal (although none of the greens made it down to my end of the table). The mains were beef bourguignon, halibut, and duck leg confit. Desserts were crème brulees and poached pears. The two Village wines were served.

The Downside: the transit directions were wrong, with the wrong street indicated.

The Upside: fabulous luncheon and a chance to taste with Vincor personnel.

The Contact Person: candies.walsh@leclosjordanne.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.