TASTING: Yalumba Wines, with Jane Ferrari, Sept. 24, 2009

The Time and Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009  Noon to 3 PM

The Event: a tasting of the latest Yalumba current releases in Ontario, with Jane Ferrari, Winemaker/Communications and reps from agents Mark Anthony.

The Venue: Reds Wine Bar

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are at the LCBO or soon will be.

The Quote/Background: Jane is an excellent ambassador for this 160 year old family-owned company. She took us through the wines, step-by-step, how the local terroir works for each, and its treatment in the winery.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Yalumba Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2008, +39271, $17.95

-Yalumba Mawson's Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, +60228, $19.95 Nov 21/09 Vintages

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2008, +954644, $22.95 – also a wild ferment but not noted as such on label

-Yalumba Barossa Eden Valley Shiraz Viognier 2006, +524926, $19.95 Vintages Nov 7/09.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Yalumba Y Series Shiraz Viognier 2007, LCBO 624494, $14.95

-Yalumba Y Series Riesling 2008, +625129 Vintages

-Yalumba Y Series Pinot Grigio 2008, +138586 $15.95 Vintages January 2010.

 

The Food: we began with a charcuterie platter of ten different meats (mortadella, ham hock terrine, squab galantine, chicken liver foie gras pate, chorizo sausage, smoked ham, pate campaigne, and others). Then it was an off-the-menu selection. Some of us had the special burger or the special fried chicken; others had the prix fixe which involved roast quail with caramelized onions, local pickerel, and pumpkin pannacotta. In general, all of the food went with the wines. There was a fair amount of cross-checking and comparison since there were no direct wine pairings. My faves were the Wild Ferment Chardonnay and the Mawson's Cabernet Sauvignon – they seemed to go well with everything.

The Downside: actually, we could have used more time with Jane since she is so knowledgeable about the Australian wine industry.

The Upside: we heard some terrific stories of Jane's holidays and work abroad – she's a great travel companion. Try http://yalumbastories.wordpress.com.

The Contact Person:  danalee.harris@shaw.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS...(Sept 2009)

 

...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books
actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally,
there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for
items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to
the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American,
they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes
there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not.
I'll try to point this out. The usual schtick is "favourite recipes
made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying
ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic
phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell
such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers
that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't
seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen
tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by
name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well
as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos
abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

11. AMERICA'S MOST WANTED RECIPES; delicious recipes from your family's
favorite restaurants (Atria, 2009; distr. Simon & Schuster, 267 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4391-4706-1, $15 US soft covers) has been pulled together by
Ron Douglas, founder of a copycat recipe website, recipesecrets.net.
The book has more than 200 of these recipes, from 57 of America's
popular restaurants. Most of these are in Canada, such as KFC, Red
Lobster, Olive Garden, and Pizza Hut. But not IHOP or Brooklyn Café.
Nevertheless, this is a good presentation of knockoffs from menu items
found in these chains. With much experimentation, Douglas and his
tester-tasters have come up with reasonable copycat recipes, so that
you can go for Baskin-Robbins' cheesecake ice cream or Benihana's
hibachi steak, or Olive Garden's chicken crostina. All courses are
covered. The recipes are easy to use, but everything is in avoirdupois
weights and measures. Recipes are by establishment, but there is a
category index and an ingredient index. Families can cook these dishes
at home for a fraction of the total cost (the food bill plus taxes,
tips, travel time and expenses). But it does require some thought in
when and what to prepare. Salt levels, though, can be controlled at
home. Quality/Price rating: 85.

 

12. TAKASHI'S NOODLES (Ten Speed Press, 2009, 168 pages, ISBN 978-1-
58008-965-4, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Takashi Yagihashi, currently
owner of Takashi's in Chicago. In partnership with Macy's, he is
opening Noodle Shops around the USA. He is assisted by Harris Salat who
writes about food and culture for diverse publications (Gourmet, NY
Times, Saveur). This is fairly comprehensive treatment of hot and cold
Japanese noodles from an award-winning chef (he has a Beard). Yet he
still needs extensive log rolling from five chefs, including Boulud,
Trotter, Ripert, and Susur Lee. The range includes hand-cut soba,
traditional and contemporary dishes, hot and cold, clay-pot udo, crispy
gyoza, and the like. This is Japanese comfort food as Yagihashi has
been cooking for the part two decades in the American Midwest. The 75
preps also include ramen, somen, bean threads, and rice noodles, as
well as side dishes. There are tips that emphasize shortcuts, fresh and
dried noodle techniques, and kid-friendly meals. There is also a fair
amount of memoir material here. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of
equivalents. Arrangement is by type of noodle, and actually includes
pasta such as penne, gnocchi and orecchiette. There is an ingredient
glossary plus a list of US resources. Try chilled ramen with chicken
and banbanji sauce, curry udon, poached egg and mentaiko udon, or
grilled salmon and chilled somen with yuzu sauce. Quality/Price rating:
88.

 

13. THE DIABETES SEAFOOD COOKBOOK; fresh, healthy, low-fat cooking
(American Diabetes Association, 2009; distr. McGraw-Hill, 165 pages,
ISBN 978-1-58-040302-3, $18.95 paper covers) is by Barbara Seelig-
Brown, host of a TV cooking show (Stress Free Cooking) and author of a
companion cookbook. Each prep here meets the nutrition guidelines of
the ADA (improved blood glucose management). And proceeds from the book
goes to the ADA. The emphasis here is on low-fat, omega-3 fats, and
protein. Creamy sauces and fried batters are eschewed. There are about
100 recipes here, emphasizing taste. But not much is mentioned with
sodium reduction. Arrangement is by course (starters to mains) with
sauces, dressings, and sides. There are a few tips and suggestions on
handling fish, including a mercury chart-guideline. Try Mediterranean
fish stew (eliminate the salt), salmon tacos, fillet primavera, bloody
Mary shrimp, or baked scallops (hold the salt). More details are at
www.stressfreecooking.com. Quality/Price rating: 87.

 

14. ISLAND LAKE LODGE: the cookbook (Whitecap, 2009, 184 pages, ISBN
978-1-55285-947-6, $29.95 soft covers) is by writer Keith Liggett who
has collated 60 recipes from the eight current and former chefs of
Island Lake Lodge, a 20-year old ski haven in the heart of BC's
Kootenay mountains. The kitchens in this National Geographic-referenced
lodge use local and organic ingredients. Liggett gives chef profiles
and presents about 60 recipes. It's arranged by meal taken and course.
There's star anise French toast, a trilogy of quail eggs benedict,
chickpea-spinach soup with tahini, smoked duck salad, and pan-roasted
black cod with mussels and black-olive gnocchi. Lots of good photos by
Henry Georgi to illustrate the kitchen's environment and the cooking
line, as well as the plated dish. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of
equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 89.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

TASTING: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada, September 18, 2009

The Time and Date: Friday, September 18, 2009  10:30AM – 2 PM

The Event: monthly tasting of the Wine Writers Circle of Canada

The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square Store #10

The Target Audience: WWCC members

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available in Ontario through the LCBO,

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

- Ferraton Pere & Fils   Crozes-Hermitage  La Matiniere Blanc   2007  100% Marsanne   13% alc   Vintages   #122720  $21.95

- Torres  Gran Coronas  Cabernet Sauvignon  2005  14% alc  Spain

-  Henry of Pelham   Riesling Reserve  2007  VQA  Off-dry  11.5% alc   Short Hills Bench Ontario

-Joseph Drouhin   Cote de Beaune-Villages  2006 13% alc   CSPC 47845  $19.95 

- Bouchard Pere & Fils  Pouilly Fuisse 2007  15.5% alc  LCBO 276436  $27.90

- Azienda Agricola   Canalicchio di Sopra  Brunello di Montalcino  2003  14.5% alc  Vintages  125070  $57.95  Released Sept 12/09

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Jaffelin  Pouilly-Fuisse  2007  13% alc  Gen Purchase  #242909  $25.95

-Ogier   Cotes du Rhone  Heritages 2007  14% alc  LCBO 535849  Gen list  $16.95

-Torres  Santa Digna  Cabernet Sauvignon  Reserve  2006  14% alc  Chile

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Ferraton Pere & Fils  Crozes-Hermitage  La Matiniere Rouge  2006   100% Syrah  13% Alc   CSPC 122712  $21.95

-Ogier  Cotes du Ventoux Rose  2008  13% alc  LCBO 134916  $11.95

-Ogier  Cotes-du-Ventoux  2007 14.5% alc  LCBO 569095  $11.95 Gen list

-Louis Jadot  Beaune Boucherottes 2006  13.5% alc  Vintages 47837  $49.10

-Luigi Bosca  Malbec Reserva  2006  14% alc  Mendoza, Argentina 

 

The Food: Brix Chocolate to compare and contrast with the red wines (syrah, cabernets, pinots). The medium chocolate worked best of all with everything (60% chocolate).

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

TASTING: 4th Annual Stem Wine Group Portfolio, Toronto, Sept 22, 2009

The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009   3PM to 10 PM

The Event: 4^th annual Stem Wine Group "Family of Wines" Gala Tasting

The Venue: Eglinton Grand event theatre

The Target Audience: wine media, restaurants, private clients.

The Availability/Catalogue: everything is here or will be via

consignment and private orders. The catalogue was a model of

efficiency, with a quick section on how to use the guide. All prices

were given, as well as the terms. The wines were listed by region and

producer, in table order. Helpful cards were placed at each table, with

more details about each wine. This really saved me a lot of time, and I

am sure the patrons appreciated it.

The Quote/Background: Partners Robert Tome and Tony Macchione have assembled one of the nicest portfolios of wines, specializing in highly sought after wines from Piedmont, Tuscany, Umbria, and the like. There are also a select few wines from other European countries plus the New World.

The Wines: I did not try all the wines, there were over 100 of them. Eight owners or export directors came over from Italy for this event. Prices are retail.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Boroli Barolo Villero Riserva 1999, $119.99

-Zyme Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2003, $225

-Villabella Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Fracastoro 2001, $64.99

-Villabella Passito del Fiordilej 2005, $25.99 (375 mL)

-Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2004, $114.99

-Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano 2003, $219.99

-Az.Agr. Collemattioni Brunello di Montalcino 2004, $64.99

-Az.Agr. Collemattioni Brunello di Montalcino 2004 Riserva, $100 (not yet released, pre-orders only).

-Andeluna Cellars Grand Reserve Pasionado 2004 Mendoza, $54.99

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Boroli Barolo Cerequio 2003, $109.99

-Viberti Barolo Bricco Delle Viole Riserva 2003, $71.99

-Ca' del Baio Langhe Nebbiolo Bric del Baio 2007, $26.99

-Villabella Villa Cordevigo Rosso Veronese 2004, $46.99

-Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2004, $159 (other bottle sizes available, from 375 mL to jeroboam 3 L)

-La Fattoria de Magliano Poggio Bestiale IGT 2006, $56.99

-La Fattoria de Magliano Perenzo Syrah IGT 2006, $64.99

-Arnaldo Caprai Rosso Outsider IGT 2006 Umbria, $66.99 (50-50 cab/merlot)

-Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25^th Anniversary 2005 Umbria, $124.99

-Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Rosso 2006 Riserva Umbria, $59.99

-Az.Agr. Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2006, $49.99

-Az.Agr. Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2004 Villa Gemma, $79.99

-Feudi di San Gregorio Serpico Aglianico 2003, $99.99

-Bodegas Darien Rioja Seleccion 2003, $39.99

-Jax Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $59.99

-Jax Vineyards Y3 Chardonnay Napa, 2007, $33.99

-Coup de Foudre Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2007, $225

-Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2006, $98.99

-Andeluna Reserve Chardonnay 2005 Mendoza, $22.99

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Viberti Barolo Buon Padre 2004, $65.88

-Ca' Del Baio Barbaresco Valgrande 2006, $59.99

-Delibori Vignetti Cantine Amarone della Valpolicella 2004, $35.99

-Tenuta Monteti Caburnio IGT 2006 Tuscany, $23.99

-Tenuta Monteti IGT 2005 Tuscany, $59.99

-Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Rosso 2006 Umbria, $30.99

-Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi 2003, $59.99

-Bodegas Darien Rioja Crianza 2005, $21.99

-David Franz Lehmann Barossa Benjamin's Promise Shiraz 2004, $51.99

-David Franz Lehmann Barossa Georgie's Walk Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, $51.99

-David Franz Lehmann Barossa Alexander's Reward Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, $51.99

-Michael Sullberg Merlot 2007 Central Coast, $16.99

-Hart & McGarry Chardonnay Napa Valley 2006, $25.99

-Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $59.99

 

Try http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com/2008/12/trade-tasting-stem-wine-group-gala.html for a look at what I thought about last year's tasting. My ratings are fairly consistent.

 

The Food: it is always about the porchetta! But there were also lobster bisque, semolina breads, a Parmigiano-Reggiano wheel, mushroom risotto with truffle oil, spring rolls and sausages.

The Upside: there was a jazz-pop guitar trio plus a historical slide show of older photos of the Stem company.

The Contact Person: robert@stemwinegroup.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 96

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

TASTING: Sonoma County Vintners in Toronto, Sept. 21, 2009

The Time and Date: Monday, September 21, 2009  1:15PM to 5:30 PM

The Event: Sonoma in the City, annual tour of the Sonoma County Vintners to Toronto.

The Venue: Arcadian Court

The Target Audience: wine trade in the afternoon.

The Availability/Catalogue: good solid small catalogue of 100 wines with the essentials (all but prices). Most wines available via normal distribution channels.

The Quote/Background: There was a seminar at 1:15 which was informative – all about Sonoma Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs in terms of their terroir. Only 8% of Sonoma is under vine. There are 450 wineries, 1800 growers, and 13 AVAs.

The Wines: I did not taste all of the wines.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Buena Vista Carneros Chardonnay 2007, $29.95

-Landmark Vineyards Grand Detour Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast.

-Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay 2006, $40.

-Gloria Ferrer Royal Cuvee 2002, $35

-Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay 2007, $60

-Pezzi-King Zinfandel 2006 Old Vines, $33 (16.2% ABV)

-Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Sonoma County, $18.95.

 

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Gary Farrell Chardonnay 2007 Russian River, $47.95

-La Crema Chardonnay 2007 Russian River Valley, $38.95

-La Crema Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma Coast, $29.95

-Chalk Hill Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $50

-Chateau St. Jean Merlot 2006 Sonoma County, $34.95

-Flowers Andreen-Gale Chardonnay 2006, $89

-Flowers Perennial 2007

-Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs NV

-Gloria Ferrer Va de Vi NV

-Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2007, $34.95

-Rodney Strong Chardonnay Sonoma County 2008

-Rodney Strong Symmetry 2006, $69.95

-Sbragia Family Chardonnay Home Ranch 2007, $40

-Sbragia Family Andolsen Cabernet 2006

-Schug Carneros Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Sonoma Valley

-Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Sonoma County, $26.95

-Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay 2007 Russian River Ranches

-Thomas George Estates Viognier 2008

-Souverain Chardonnay 2007 Alexander Valley

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma County, $19.95

-Flowers Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma Coast, $66.

-Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir 2006, $29.95.

-MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir 2007 Sonoma Coast, $19.95

-Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2007 Alexander Valley, $29.95.

-Ferrari-Carano Merlot 2006 Sonoma

-Ferrari-Carano Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Alexander Valley

-Deerfield Ranch Red Rex 2005

-Deerfield Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

-Davis Bynum Chardonnay 2007 Russian River Valley

-Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Alexander Valley

-Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Chardonnay 2007 Russian River Valley

-Murphy-Goode Chardonnay 2007, $19.75

-Ravenswood Teldeschi Zinfandel 2006, $39.95

-Sebastiani Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma County, $22.85

-Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Alexander Valley

 

The Food: cheeses, four kinds of terrines, veggies and dips, breads and crackers, bottled water.

The Downside: some tables I wanted to see at the same time got slammed by a roving band of a dozen scented wine servers from a bar that will remain unnamed.

The Upside: bottled water a plus.

The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com