Oct 16/09 Event: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada tasting of 40 sparkling wines

The Time and Date: Friday, October 16, 2009  10:30 AM to 1 PM
The Event: a Wine Writers' Circle of Canada tasting of 40 sparkling
wines in the Ontario "Holiday" market place.
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square, Summerhill
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available through the LCBO,
although some will be coming in the near future.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-  Pol Roger Brut Reserve  12.5% alc  #51953  General List  $58.80 Epernay, France.
-  Taittinger  Brut Millesime  2002  12.5% alc    CSPC  989905  Vintages  $87.25 Reims, France.
-  G.H. Mumm  Carte Classique  NV   12% alc   #308064  $56.65   Reims, France.
-  Perrier-Jouet  Grand Brut  NV  12% alc  #50278 $64.45    Epernay, France.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): --
-  Henry of Pelham  Cuvee Catharine   VQA  NV  12% alc  CSPC 616441  Vintages  $29.95   
Niagara Peninsula
-  Henry of Pelham  Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut  VQA NV  12% alc  CSPS 4051  $29.95  LCBO
-  Hungaria  Grande Cuvee Brut  NV   11.5% alc  LCBO 619288  $11.90  Budapest, Hungary
-G.H. Mumm  Brut  NV  12% Alc  #308056  $59.95  Reims, France.
-  Segura Viudas  Brut Reserva   Cava  NV  11.5% alc  General List  158493  $14.65  Spain
-  Pascual Toso  Malbec Rose Sparkling  Avail spring 2010 in clear bottle.$14.95
-  Bottega  Petalo 'Il Vino dell'Amore" Moscato Sparkling   NV  6.5% alc    General List #588780 
$12.95  (temporary price reduction until Jan 2/10  
-  Belcanto di Bellussi  Proseco XD  VSQPRD  11.5% alc   Vintages  #53215  $17.95  Italy.
-  Lanson Black Label Brut  NV  12.5% alc  CSPC 41889  $56.95  Reims, France.
-  Lanson  Rose Label  Rose Brut  NV  12.5% alc  CSPC 94458  $59.95  Reims, France.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-  Remy Pannier Brut  NV   Chardonnay  12% alc  #341669  $11.65  France.
-  Bottega  Vino dei Poeti  Prosecco Brut  NV 11% alc  General List 897702  $14.30 Italy.
-  Col de' Salici  Prosecco  Spumante Extra Dry  NV  11.5% alc  Consignment  # 293471   $14.95
-  Deinhard  Lila  Brut  Riesling  12.5%  #160648  Vintages MARCH 6, 2010.  Germany   $13.95.
-  Piper-Heidseick  Cuvee Brut  NV   12% alc  +462432  $49.95    Reims, France.
-  Freixenet  Cordon Negro  Brut  D.O. Cava  12% alc  # 88591  $13.95/750ml   #167791 
$4.25/200ml  #180588  $24.95/l.5L  Spain
-  Santa Margherita  Brut Prosecco de Valdobbiadene   11.5% alc  #687582  Vintages  $18.95 
-  Mumm Napa   Brut Prestige  NV  13% alc  #265678    $27.95  Napa, CA
-  Freixenet  Carta Nevada Brut D.O. Cava  12% alc  #74757  $13.95   Spain
 
The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Oct 7/09 Event: Chilean Wine Festival trade tasting

The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009   2PM to 4:30PM
The Event: Chilean Wine Festival trade tasting
The Venue: Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are here, or will be here.
The Quote/Background: the venue, as in other years, was dark. This
might be appropriate at night, but at the trade show, I want to see
what I taste.
The Wines: I had already tasted some 41 wines in September, and I list
the highlights here –

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Vina Sena Arboleda Chardonnay 2008 Casablanca, Vintages,
$15.95
-Vina Emiliana Organico Novas Winemaker's Selection
Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne 2007 Casablanca, $18.95
Vintages +63909 March 2010

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Vina Montes Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Leyda
Valley, +32060, $14.95
-Vina Veramonte Reserva Chardonnay 2007 Casablanca, +49443
Vintages, $14.95, Oct 24/09
-Vina Casa Tamaya Reserva Syrah 2007 Limari, +135418,
$15.85
-Vina Nativa Gran Reserva Single Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon 2006 Maipo (organic), +975359, $19.99 Vintages
Dec 5, 2009.

 

At the trade show, then, these were my scores; I did not taste every
wine.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Botalcura Cayao Icon Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2003 Rapel, $49.95 HHD
Imports
-Caliterra Cenit Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Petit Verdot 2006 Colchagua,
$67 +143917 Vintages
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $19.95
Vintages +337238
-Vina Maipo Limited Edition Syrah 2006 Maipo, $29.95 Select
-Perez Cruz Quelen Petit Verdot/Cot/Carmenere 2006 Maipo, $55 Charton
Hobbs
-Santa Rita Pehuen Carmenere 2005 Apalta, $54.95 Mark Anthony
-Terra Andina Suyai Cabernet Franc/Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua, $29.95 Mark Anthony
-Undurraga Terroir Hunter Syrah 2007 Limari, $27.95 Azureau
-Valdivieso Caballo Loco no. 10 Bordeaux Blend Central Valley, +59147,
$44 Vintages
-Viu Manent Viu 1 Malbec/Petit Verdot 2007 Colchagua Valley, $86.25
Churchill Cellars.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Botalcura La Porfia Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $22.95 HHD
Imports
-Botalcura La Porfia Grand Reserve Carmenere 2006, $22.95 HHD Imports
-Caliterra Tributo Edicion Limitada Carmenere/Malbec 2006 Colchagua,
$24.95 +143487 Vintages
-Carta Vieja G7 Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2007 Maule, $17.95 Small
Winemakers
-Vina Chocalan Gran Reserva Malbec 2006 Maipo, $27.25 Vintages
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007, +342857 $17.95
Vintages
-Vina Maipo Gran Devocion Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah 2007, $18.95 Select
-Vina Montes Purple Angel Carmenere 2006 Colchagua, $49.95 +62364
Vintages
-Valdivieso Reserva Chardonnay 2007, +981621 $17.95 Vintages
-Veramonte Primus Red Blend 2006 Colchagua, +712463 $24.95 Vintages

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Luis Felipe Edwards Dona Bernarda Red Blend 2006 Colchagua, $34.95

 

The Food: pulled pork appetizers, cured salmon on plaintain, cheeses
(including a creamy gorgonzola), both beef and chicken empanadas.
The Downside: the show was too short. I never finished, and that was
just tasting the wines I wanted to taste – never mind the others.
The Upside: the first hour and a half had light attendance, so I could
roam.
The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

2009 Cuisine Canada Book Awards

 

The Time and Date: Friday, November 6, 2009   12 noon to 4 PM

The Event: Announcement of the winners of the 2009 Canadian Culinary Book Awards (hosted by Cuisine Canada and University of Guelph)

The Venue: Direct Energy Centre Building, adjacent to the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair.

The Target Audience: contenders, their guests and the media. A large number of people turned up, which is always a good sign.

The Quote/Background: More than 50 cookbooks published in Canada in 2008 were assessed since April, 2009. These are the 12^th annual presentations, the second at the Royal Winter Fair.

The Wines: we had three wines, all from Niagara College Teaching Winery. First up was the Sauvignon Blanc 2008, which caught me by surprise since it was straw and golden in colour, and did not have the initial zest of a sauvignon blanc. It was an atypical wine, served with the appetizers (crab and cucumber, asparagus and Balderson cheese with toast) prepared by Rootham Gourmet Preserves, using some of their preserves. With the reception food, we had a Cabernet Franc 2006 (nicely maturing, even throwing a deposit) and a Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007 from the Ziraldo Vineyard in St. David. The chardonnay was excellent, redolent with lanolin unctuousness and oak tones, and the same colour as the Sauvignon Blanc.

And the award goes to…: it took a while to get through the bilingual introductions. The awards were for both French and English language books. The winner of the Canadian Culinary Landmarks Hall of Fame (a new category reserved for Hall of Fame type books) was "Culinary Landmarks; a bibliography of Canadian cookbooks, 1825-1949" by Elizabeth Driver (UTPress). The Gold winner in the English Cookbook Category was "Small plates for Sharing" edited by Laurie Stempfle (Company's Coming Publishing). The Gold in the English Special Interest Category was "Beyond the Great Wall; recipes and travels in the other China" (Random House Canada) by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. And the Gold for the English Canadian Food Culture Category was "Anita Stewart's Canada" (HarperCollins). For other winners and French language winners, check www.cuisinecanada.ca.

The Food: At the closing reception for the winners, we enjoyed a range of dishes prepared by Jeff Crump of Ancaster Old Mill (risotto with cauliflower and mushrooms), Jim Loat of Borealis Grille in Guelph (smoked elk ragout on red fife tagliatelle), David Garcelon of the Fairmont Royal York Hotel (pork loin from Willowgrove Hill Farm with cabbages), baking and pastry students from George Brown Chef School (cookies, apple-cheddar savoury muffins with prosciutto slices, butternut squash bisque), and Wanda Beaver from Wanda's Pie in the Sky (pecan pies, cookies, etc.)

The Website: www.cuisinecanada.ca will have further details on these awards plus more.

The Downside: all the food service lines were packed into one corner which made for a really bad traffic jam. The other end of the room was free, and George Brown and Wanda could have been located there.

The Upside: food was terrific, and matched rather well with the wines. With the long lines it was impossible NOT to talk to others around you.

The Contact Person: fionalucas@rogers.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

SOME NEW WINE PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH

 

1. Passion of Portugal, +146449, $7.65, at entry level price for the
LCBO General List. One of the first of the new bread from Europe to
counteract Fuzion and similar wines. This one, imported by Majestic
Wine, comes from Lisboa region. It is a charming blend of Tinta Roriz,
Tinta Barroca, and Pinot Noir. It shows rich red fruit, like strawbs
and rasps, with some overtones of vanilla. Upfront and juicy.
Complemented by the softer tannins, this wine can be used with parties
or sippers rather than food. Not very Euro in style, more a New World
wine.

 

2. Stratus Gamay 2007 Niagara, $29 winery only: Ontario is doing some
fantastic things with longer aged gamay, a sort of over-the-top Morgon.
Stratus has its cooperage here set at 639 days in all French oak (43%
new), 14% ABV. A super-blast of red fruit density from the charming
2007 vintage, but needs keeping awhile. My bottle was opened and
savoured for a week.

 

3. Stratus Cabernet Franc 2007 Niagara, $38 winery only, with a small
amount in Vintages in 2010: Ontario makes superb Cabernet Franc (it
seems to be our signature grape), and this one has spent 630 days in
all new French oak. Expect toastiness and some red fruit tones, as well
as mocha and vanills. 2007 was a long hot growing season. Needs keeping
awhile. My bottle was opened and savoured for a week. The winery has
the cellar potential at 10+ years.

 

4. Frei Joao Bairrada Portugal 2006, +144469, $14.95 Vintages Nov
21/09, very much on the food wine side with early harvested Baga grapes
(40% of the cuvee). Also here: 30% Touriga Nacional, 15% Tinta Roriz,
and 15% Merlot to soften the finish. It can age well, will be drinking
better next year. Expect some fried figs, mocha, and light vanilla
tones from partial wood aging for 1 year. 13% ABV.

 

From Applewood Farm Winery (Stouffville), each fall brings new wines
from the fruit harvest. High on my list is the Mac Meade sparkler,
about 7% ABV with a sugar code of 3, priced at $12.95 retail at the
winery (all products are sold at the winery). This is a combo of
Macintosh apples and honey, sweet but also crisp in the finish. Good as
aperitif or with cheeses later in the meal. It is complemented to some
extent by the sparkling raspberry cider, termed Crazy Eight because of
its 8.8% ABV. The raspberry is available by the 341 mL "beer bottle"
format with a twist crown cap: expect mounds of raspberry flavour with
a finishing crispness. Refreshing on its own, or with food. $3 a
bottle, or on sale at $50 for a "two-four".

 

Applewood Farm Winery also has some heavy hitters for the end of the
dinner feast. There's an Iced Apple Cider 2007, a bit syrupy with sweet
caramel, only $14.95 for a 375mL bottle. It is good competition for
Quebec at 13% ABV with a sugar code of 18. It won a Silver Medal at the
All-Canada Wine Awards held earlier this year at Windsor. The 2008
version will be out next month; it is just being bottled, and it is
more over the top. My first impression was a syrup for a pancake
brunch, thick viscosity, heavy caramel and vanilla aromas. Apparently,
there are 46 apples used in every half-bottle of the 2008, which will
increase the price to just under $20. Also for dessert there is Black
Forest Cherry 2007 (13% ABV, $12.95, 375mL) with highly aromatic black
cherry scents and flavours following through with an added real 
chocolate component (hence the name: you supply your own whipped
cream).

 

And Applewood likes to experiment with port-style wines. There's a Pear
Port which I have enjoyed in the past; it is now joined by and intense
Black Currant Port (20% ABV, $19.95, 750 mL) and an amazing Small Cask
Buckwheat Honey 2005 (20% ABV, $19.95, 500 mL) redolent of buckwheat
tones and oaking, another pancake topper.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH: World Whiskey (DK, 2009)

WORLD WHISKEY (DK, 2009, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-5443-6, $25 US,
hard covers) has been edited by Charles MacLean, author of ten books on
whiskey (including the definitive "Scotch Whisky" and "Malt Whisky").
The writers include Dave Broom, Tom Bruce-Gardyne, Ian Buxton, Peter
Mulryan, Hans Offringa, and Gavin D. Smith. While it does not appear
that articles are actually signed, each writer has a mini-biography of
credentials. The books very similar to the late Michael Jackson's
WHISKEY; the definitive world guide, published by DK in 2005 with 288
pages. This is another "tell all" book, international in scope. It is
comprehensive and somewhat authoritative, with 167 pages on Scotland,
34 for Irish, 12 on Canada, 50 on the USA, 25 for Japan, 13 for the
rest of Europe, and six for Australasia. The writers clearly show the
impact of climate, water, heather, sea breeze, barley, peat, malting
techniques, distillation processes, type of wood used for storage,
maturation periods. General sections cover aromas and flavours, peats
and bogs, regions, terroirs – with lots of illustrations and diagrams.
There are short sections on whiskey cocktails (with recipes), and food
and whiskey pairing. But this is principally a directory to some of the
finest distilled grain-based spirits in the world (over 700 of them,
with 1200 colour photos). After the first 20 pages of general
materials, the country-by-country arrangement begins with Scotland, of
course. The guide to the major producers of single-malt scotch, small
batch bourbons, and pure pot Irish includes contact details and
reproductions of bottles. Tasting notes are also included. There are
five whiskey tours through Speyside, Islay, Ireland, Kentucky, and
Japan.
Audience and level of use: wine schools, whiskey lovers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "Islay's constant wind carries a
mist of sweet, salt-laden air, the whiff of the sea, the coconut aroma
of hot gorse, a hint of peat smoke and bog myrtle, and the smell of a
just-spent fire on the beach. All the notes you pick up in its malts
are there, floating in the Atlantic wind".
What I don't like about this book: it is hard to fault, but maybe a
pronunciation guide could have been useful. More maps would also have
engaged me.
What I do like about this book: good thick paper. There are tasting
notes and good descriptions of vatted malts.
Quality/Price Ratio: 91.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Oct 6/09 Event: annual portfolio tasting of the Profile Wine Group

The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2009  1PM to 8PM
The Event: annual portfolio tasting of the Profile Wine Group
The Venue: Liberty Grand
The Target Audience: wine trade, private clients – about 1300 in all!
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available through LCBO
Vintages, Consignment or Private Order.
The Quote/Background: Profile Wine Group brings together Barrique, Vin
Vino and Du Chasses agencies. They are strong on Italian wines and
American wines. In recent years, they have added more from Portugal and
France, as well as Megalomaniac from Ontario and Domaine Antolino Brogo
Apple Ice Cider from Quebec.
The Wines: with over 300 wines, I only tasted a sampling – prices are
retail

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Maverick Twins Chardonnay 2007 Australia, $27.95 Private Order
-Jip Jip Rocks Sparkling Shiraz 2008 Australia, $14.95 Private Order
-Dom Antolino Brogo Cryomalus Ice Cider 2007 Quebec $36.95 half-bottle
Consignment
-L'Ecole #41 Columbia Valley Semillon 2007, $23.95 Private Order
-Oakville Ranch Chardonnay 2007, $45.95 Private Order
-Columbia Crest Chardonnay 2006, $17.95 Private order
-Champagne Marguet Cuvee Grand Cru 2002, $57.95 Private order
-Cellar Pinol Mather Teresina 2004/05 Red Spain, $49 LCBO Web
-Bodegas LAN Limitada 2005 Spain, $54.95 Cons
-Bodega LAN Culmen 2004, $79.95 Private Order
-Bodega LAN Rioja Gran Reserva 2001, $27.95 Vintages
-Signorello Estate Cabernet 2006 California, $71.95 Cons
-Miner Chardonnay 2007 Napa, $34.95 Cons
-Peter Franus Brandin Vineyard Zinfandel 2006, $47.95 Cons
-L'Ecole #41 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot 2006, $42.95 Vintages

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rutini Chardonnay 2007 Argentina, $21.95 Private Order
-Penmara Chardonnay Reserve 2006 Australia, $20.95 Private Order
-Wakefield Estate Chardonnay 2008 Australia, $19.95 Consignment
-Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Reserva 2006, $29.95 Cons
-Terreblanca Croce Chianti Riserva 2005, $32.95 Cons
-Bersano Gavi 2008, $17.95 Consignment
-Gordon Bros Kamiak Windust White 2008, $19.95 Private Order – blend of
chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and 10% gewurztraminer
-Columbia Crest Chardonnay 2008 Grand Estate, $20.95 Private order
-Villa Mt. Eden Bien Nacido Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2006, $24.95 Cons
-Martin Ray Angelina Sonoma Chardonnay 2007, $22.95 Private Order
-Martin Ray Russian River Chardonnay 2007, $31.95 Cons
-J. Lohr Riverstone Estate Chardonnay 2006, $19.95 LCBO General
-J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay 2006, $32.95 Private Order
-J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay 2006, $32.95 Private Order
-Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay 2006, $32.95 Cons
-M.Picard Montagny 2007, $42.30
-Champagne Marguet Cuvee Gran d Cru Rose 2003, $60.95 Private Order
-Pierre Sparr Riesling Reserve 2007, $16.95 LCBO Vintages
-Signorello Edge Cabernet 2007, $33.95 Cons
-Signorello Fuse Cabernet 2006, $38.95 Cons
-Amity Chardonnay Reserve 2007 Oregon, $32.95 Cons
-Keenan Chardonnay Spring Mountain District 2007, $41.95 Private Order
-Oakville Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $64.95 Private Order
-Miner Oracle Napa 2005 (bordeaux-blend), $79.95 Cons
-Chateau Teyssier St. Emilion Laforge Grand Cru, $89.95 Cons
-Chateau Teyssier St. Emilion, $41.95
-J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Paso Robles, $20.95
Vintages

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Argento Chardonnay 2008 Argentina, $9.75 LCBO General List
-Crios Chardonnay 2009 Argentina, $16.95 Consignment
-Megalomaniac My Way Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, $24.75 Consignment.
-Falernia Pedro Ximenez 2009 Chile, $13.95 Private order – bone-dry
white, unusual.
-Chateau de Ste. Michelle Chardonnay 2007, $17.95 Vintages
-Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Chardonnay 2008, $22.95 Private
order
-Merryvale Starmont Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $29.95 Private Order
-Stonehedge Sauvignon Blanc 2007 California, $17.95 Cons
-Stonehedge Chardonnay 2007 California, $17.95 Cons
-Miner Viognier 2007 California, $19.95 Cons

 

The Food: we had cheeses from Thornloe Cheese in Ontario and Fifth Town
cheeses from Prince Edward County (Isabella, Petal Luma, Cape Vessey,
and Lighthall Tomme, all cave aged). Pingue Prosciutto was available,
as well as seven great olive oils with breads from St. John's Bakery.
The Downside: too many wines to sample in one day, but only ONE
Zinfandel in the entire California range.
The Upside: a good range of Chardonnays for every price point and every
style.
The Contact Person: www.profilewinegroup.com or giovanni@vinvino.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Oct 5/09 Event: a tasting of Chateau des Charmes wines, just released

Dean Tudor 

The Time and Date: Monday, October 5, 2009  4PM to 8PM
The Event: a tasting of Chateau des Charmes wines, just released and
featuring new labels.
The Venue: Chefs' House, George Brown College
The Target Audience: wine writers, trade, private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the winery,
and some
The Quote/Background: three of the wines are at Vintages Oct 24 as part
of the On Tour release. The new wine labels feature a QR Code (2D code)
which is useful for mobile tagging. Just run your phone over the label
tag, and you'll get updated info on the wine's features, direct from
the winery – provided you've installed the enabling software first.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Brut Methode Traditionnelle, $22.95 +145409,
Recently Disgorged and all from one vintage. Underpriced.
-Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Gris Estate Bottled 2008, $19.95 +122291
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc Estate Bottled 2007, $13.95
+277236. Underpriced.
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot "Old Vines" Estate Bottled 2005,
$19.95 +222372. Underpriced. Vintages Oct 24.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay St. David's Bench Vineyard 2006, $19.95
+430991, Vintages Oct 24.
-Chateau des Charmes Merlot St. David's Bench Vineyard 2007, $29.95
+453431. Vintages Oct 24.
-Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling Estate Bottled 2007, $19.95
half-bottle. +432930.
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc Icewine Estate Bottled 2007, $75.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Gewurztraminer St. David's Bench Vineyard 2007,
$19.95 +453472. Vintages Oct 24.
-Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree Estate Bottled 2008, $13.95
+277236

 

The Food: superb cheeses from Quebec and Ontario, featuring Le
Rassembleau (raw cow), Tuscano, Niagara Gold, Operetta, and Cru des
Champlain (raw cow); lamb sliders; good pork bellies; smoked salmon;
and a variety of interesting charcuterie (four kinds including pork
shoulder), with in-house androuilletes and in-house game terrine
(caribou, rabbit, poultry) accompanied by diverse relishes and veggie
pickles. Great accompaniment for the wines.
The Downside: I had to leave early, my fault.
The Upside: a chance to speak with both Paul Boscs, who are just as
witty as ever, and the delightful organizer Michele Bosc.
The Contact Person: michele@chateaudescharmes.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

LCBO Vintages Release Notes for Nov 7, 2009

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR NOVEMBER 7, 2009
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing <deantudor@deantudor.com>
Always at www.deantudor.com since 1995. Also visit my "Wines, Beers and
Spirits of the Net Compendium", a guide to thousands of news items and
RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits.
My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are
QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated
wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the
release for wine writers or product consultants. Also, some defective
or corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Catena Chardonnay 2007 Mendoza: 14% ABV, stylish, edgy and smoky,
from higher altitude grapes. +918895, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007 Maipo: MVC for
the toasty pear tones, butter. +342857, $17.95, QPR: 90.
3. Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Chardonnay 2008 Eden Valley: good creamy
consistency, smooth toasted at end, twist top, 14% ABV. +651349,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Louis Hauller Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: well-rounded, MVC muscat
tones, slightly bitter on finish. +141754, $16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Jean-Michel Sorbe Quincy 2008: very herby and delicious, citrus,
long engaging finish, refreshing, palate cleansing. +608877, $18.95,
QPR: 90.
6. Laurent Miquel Nord Sud Viognier 2008 Pays D'Oc: partially done up
in oak barrels for added succulence and vanilla complexity. +673236,
$16.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Clos du Bois Sonoma Reserve Merlot 2006 Alexander Valley: soft,
black fruit and mocha, strong restaurant wine. +34900, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Round Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California: another good resto
wine, hits all the MVC cabernet sauvignon buttons. +526418, $14.95,
QPR: 90.
3. Bodega Francois Lurton Reserva Malbec 2007 Mendoza: quality mocha,
smoke and toast. Food wine. +903153, $17.95, QPR: 90.
4. Weinert Malbec 2004 Mendoza: good depth and tang, well-aged. 14.5%
ABV. +556795, $15.95, QPR: 90.
5. Concha y Toro Winemaker's Lot 115 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Quebrada
de Agua Vineyard Maule Chile: very tasty black fruit and cassis,
greater development possible. +30965, $17.95, QPR: 90.
6. Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier 2006 Barossa: Rhone style syrah shines
through. +524926, $19.95, QPR: 90.
7. Chateau de Lafaurie-Monbadon 2005 Cotes de Castillon Bordeaux: rich,
dense black fruit, great price. Buy it all! +140012, $15, QPR: 92.
8. Chateau de Gourgazaud Cuvee Mathilde 2006 Minervois: good dense
flavours of black fruit, long long finish. +958629, $14.95, QPR: 90.
9. Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvee Notre Dame 2007 Corbieres: appears
sweeter than the Minervois above but structured the same (Grenache
replacing mourvedre). +106518, $16.95.
10. Château Val Joanis Tradition Syrah 2006 Luberon: 14% ABV, good
syrah hit, nicely priced to sell. +965616, $15.95, QPR: 90.
11. Les Vignerons du Castelas Cotes du Rhone 2007: good syrah Rhone
typicity, longer finish, more food than just party. +142125, $13.95,
QPR: 90.
12. Perrin & Fils Les Cornuds Vinsobres 2007 Cotes du Rhone: red fruit
and lovely finish, best with food. +566844, $17.95, QPR: 90.
13. Nuova Cappelletta Barbera del Monferrato 2007: biodynamic wine
shoes good fruit and density, longer finish. +719518, $16.95, QPR: 90.
14. A-Mano Primitivo 2007 Puglia: good standby, useful zinfandel-like
tones. +972588, $15.95, QPR: 90.
15. Poggio Al Tufo Alicante 2007 Maremma Toscana: deep, dense and
delicious, very Italianate, character in the structure. +70797, $18.95,
QPR: 90.
16. Marques de Valcarlos Reserva Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Navarra: raisin nose, stretched oak over palate, longer finish, needs
food. +928853, $17.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are ready to enjoy right now. Consumers
could buy and bring to those restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma/Santa Barbara/Monterey,
+356501, $32.95 retail.
2. Yalumba Viognier 2008 Eden Valley, +954644, $22.95 retail.
3. Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2007 Twenty Mile Bench
Niagara, +33951, $21.
4. Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa, +73817, $21.95.
5. Murdock Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Coonawarra, +994210, $32.95.
6. Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2005, +512384, $35.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Oct 1/09 Event: A tasting with Laura Catena from Bodega Catena Zapata

The Time and Date: Thursday, October 1, 2009   10AM to 11:30 AM
The Event: A tasting with Laura Catena from Bodega Catena Zapata at her
agent Calibrium International's Toronto office.
The Venue: Calibirum, Liberty Village
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: these are mainly upcoming LCBO Vintages
releases from her family's winery and high altitude vineyards.
The Quote/Background: Laura said: "If you think too much you don't make
good wine". And that's also true of tasting and identifying wine.
The Wines: we tried seven wines. Most were of sterling, first rate
quality, characterized by intense and dense flavours.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

 

-Catena Alta Chardonnay 2007, $39.95, coming in 2010.
-Catena Zapata Malbec Nicasia Vineyard 2005, $70
-Catena Zapata Malbec Adrianna Vineyard 2005, $70

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $50 Vintages November 21.
-Nicolas Catena Zapata 2005 (78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Malbec), $83 Vintages
Online
-Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino 2005 (sourced from Nicasia & Adrianna vineyards),
$83

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Catena Alta Malbec 2006, $55.95 Vintages November 21.

 

The Downside: it was early in the morning
The Upside: a chance to speak with Laura Catena, one of the most
dynamic Argentine wine personalities.
The Contact Person: agaunt@calibrium.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Food and Wine Books In Review, Aug- Oct 2009

THE TROPICAL VEGAN KITCHEN; meat-free, egg-free, dairy-free dishes
from the tropics (Home Books, 2009; distr. Penguin, 179 pages, ISBN
978-1-55788-544-9, $18.95 US paper covers) is by Donna Klein, author of
other vegan cookbooks. She's a free lance writer for several
publications, writing on vegan and vegetarian matters. There are 225 or
so preps here, covering the tropics of the Caribbean, Africa, South
Asia, and Latin America. There is a primer on tropical fruits and
veggies with data on buying and storing. Each recipe has a nutritional
analysis. Arrangement is by course, with many soups and salads.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there are metric tables of equivalents. It is a straightforward
book, covering avocado, banana, chayote, jackfruit, kiwi, mango and
more – 20 in all. Two recipes or so on a page, many with cook's notes.
And just about everything is fast and easy to do.
Audience and level of use: vegans and vegetarians looking for spicy
food.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: avocado-cucumber sushi
rolls; black bean and tropical fruit salads; spicy Bolivian-style
lentils over rice; cabbage stuffed tortillas;
The downside to this book: I would have liked some menu suggestions.
The upside to this book: she includes chilies as a tropical item, thus
there are many preps here with different peppers in the mix.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

4. ALMOST MEATLESS; recipes that are better for your health and the
planet (Ten Speed Press, 2009, 148 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-961-6,
$22.50 US paper covers) is by Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond.
Both are food writers living in Philadelphia. Here are 60 plus preps
that de-emphasize meat. It includes vegetarian variations on meat-based
recipes for flexitarians. Meats here are flavour enhancements and
garnishes. Most of the preps are classics and standbys, re-jigged to
have less meat but more veggies. So the recipes remain delicious but
also healthier and even economically worthy since there are less beef
and pork to buy. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
There is also a bibliography and website listing for healthier eating.
Audience and level of use: first to those meat eaters who want to cut
back on their meat consumption.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: shrimp and slow-roasted
tomato risotto; chicken and biscuit pot pie; turkey verde soup; turkey
and pinto bean corn bread pie; caramelized onion meat loaf; albondigas;
grits roulade.
The downside to this book: more recipes are needed.
The upside to this book: seems to satisfy the need for less meat.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

5. MODERN SPICE; inspired Indian flavors for the contemporary kitchen
(Simon & Schuster, 2009, 265 pages, ISBN 978-1-4165-6659-5, $25 US hard
covers) is by Monica Bhide, who has authored two previous Indian
cookbooks. Despite that, the publisher needs a half dozen logrollers,
especially from Mark Bittman and the head of egullet.org. Here are some
125 recipes plus some essays (a few like memoirs), which covers
culinary trends in Indian food in North America, contemporary updates
of Indian classics, and notes on Indian culture in North America. She
also has a guide to the modern Indian pantry. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric
table of equivalents. More details are at www.monicabhide.com.
Audience and level of use: Indian food lovers looking for some North
American adaptations.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pan-seared eggplant with
ginger and honey; baby besan crepes with potatoes; pomegranate-mango
toss; chicken breast stuffed with paneer; stir-fried lamb; strawberry
and kiwi pudding; guava fool; salmon with kumquat chutney.
The downside to this book: there are eight photos, not particularly
inspired – and with no page references to the recipes.
The upside to this book: larger typeface is very useful, especially in
the index.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

6. JAM IT, PICKLE IT, CURE IT and other cooking projects (Ten Speed
Press, 2009, 148 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-958-6, $24.95 US hard covers)
is by Karen Solomon, a San Francisco food and lifestyle writer. This is
a handy collection of some 75 recipes for making what the publisher
calls "artisan foods" at home. There are preps here for homemade
cheeses, condiments, smoked meats, pickles, noodles, crackers and
breadsticks, popsicles, jams, and cordials. Just like the book from
decades ago, "Better than Store Bought". She also has ideas for
creative packaging should you want to give any of these preps as gifts.
He guide has projects that can be completed over a weekend. And to that
end, she has detailed instructions, timelines for planning ahead,
shopping lists, and how to inventory your pantry. The book is arranged
by themes: munch it, bottle it, brine it, noodle it, hook it (fish),
hunt it (meats), milk it, jam it, sugar it, freeze it, unwrap it 
(candy), and drink it. There are several photos of techniques. Keen
instructions and storage notes are useful. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: great for generation Y to learn about how to
make these things at home instead of spending money on purchased stuff.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ricotta salata; kimchee;
marshmallows; chocolate fudge pops; beef jerky; olives; mustard.
The downside to this book: I would have liked more recipes for more
home prepping.
The upside to this book: good to have a book to appeal to younger,
budding cooks.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

7. HOW TO LAUNCH YOUR WINE CAREER (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2009, 354
pages, ISBN 978-1-934259-06-1, $29.95 US paper covers) is by Liz Thach
(developer of the Wine MBA program at Sonoma State University) and
Brian D'Emilio (Director of Talent for Foster's Wine Estates Americas).
Together, they detail job descriptions, educational and skill
requirements, the ladder to success in one's career, how to get
started, job hunting strategies and the like. Apparently, there fifty
career roles in the wine business. Each chapter ends with a guide to
available resources (books, websites, and conferences). The appendix
has an "Action Plan Worksheet). Along the way, there are in-depth
interviews with some important wine people, such as Michael Mondavi,
James Laube of the Wine Spectator and Leslie Sbrocco, wine author.
There is a long and useful chapter on wine writers and wine educators,
and how to get there. The book is written and arranged by typical
career divisions, including winemaker, viticulturist, wine marketing,
public relations, distributors-importers-direct sales, retailing to
stores and restaurants, wine writers, wine educators, administration,
and wine supplies. There are a lot of strategies here for job-hunting.
Audience and level of use: wine schools, students, career changers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: E-commerce/web specialist or manager
roles focus specifically on the winery's Internet presence. They manage
website design, e-commerce software and sales, and email
communications. Wineries offer customers the opportunity to purchase
directly via the Internet.
The downside to this book: big chunks are not applicable to Canada,
which has liquor monopolies.
The upside to this book: the book is focused on just the US wine
industry
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

8. 200 FAST & EASY ARTISAN BREADS; no-knead, one bowl (Robert Rose,
2009, 317 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0211-2, $27.95 Canadian, soft covers)
is by Judith Fertig, an American food writer, book author, and recipe
developer. It is a fairly easy and useful compilation of preps, being
based on the Sullivan Street Bakery's (and others') lead recipe in the
New York Times a few years back. The basic premise is to create a biga,
to let the bread breathe on its own. This means no proofing, no
kneading, and no baking on the same day. You can wait several days. The
result is a more interesting kind of bread, here made with instant or
bread machine yeast. (Bread machines are not called for in this book,
but the bread machine yeast is needed). Arrangement is by type of
bread, such as whole-grains, seeded, filled, flavoured, slow-rise,
gluten-free, festive breads, brioche, bagels, bialys, buttery yeast
breads, and more. But the book makes concessions to its dual audience
of Americans and Canadians: throughout the book, there is a box for
nearly every recipe headed "Baking with Canadian Flour". The box
explains the difference between US and Canadian flours and how to
compensate. It was off-putting after a dozen times: there must be some
150 occurrences of it in the book. Recipe preparations have their
ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements.
Audience and level of use: basic bread baking primer.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: slow-rise herbed polenta
dough; granola dough; Roquefort and walnut fougasse; sun-dried tomato
and feta flatbread; rustic Italian hoagie rolls; sour Graham dough.
The downside to this book: the constant view of the Canadian Flour box
becomes boring.
The upside to this book: it should encourage more cooks to do baking.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

9. WINESPEAK; a vinous thesaurus of (gasp!) 36, 975 bizarre, erotic,
funny, outrageous, poetic, silly and ugly wine tasting descriptors
(WineSpeak Press, 2009; distr. Wine Appreciation Guild, 346 pages, ISBN
978-0-9800648-0-3, $29.95 US paper covers) has been compiled by Bernard
Klem of www.winespeak.com. For eight years, Klem has collated wine
tasting terms from real wine reviews in English. I'm there. So is
Richard Best from Oakville. Terms are organized in 27 different
categories of appearance (clarity, colour, and age), smell and taste
(17 here), balance, complexity, typicity, and finish. There are another
20 categories of special collections, such as a series of words
describing terroir, chocolate, and minerals-rocks (have we ever sucked
rocks?). My fave from these last categories is the description
"California Chardonnay is like giving Pinocchio a blow job". Near
misses to: "health hazard", "can be cellared for up to 10,000 years",
and "mutt of the blend". This may be a fun book, but it is also a
serious book: people actually wrote these words. Klem is hard at work
on a second edition, and maybe he'll propose some Parker numbers for
the words.
Audience and level of use: wine freaks and completists, new wine
writers looking to expand their vocabulary.
Some interesting or unusual facts: none of this was made up.
The downside to this book: he misses a few Internet phrase generators
such as the Silly Tasting Note Generator. Also, he misstated my first
name as "Anthony" (Anthony Tudor was a ballet choreographer), although
my website is correct and so is "Tudor's Faint Praise Index".
The upside to this book: whew, what a collection, very complete. There
should be no complaints. Just memorize everything.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

 

 

 

10. WINE SECRETS; advice from winemakers, sommeliers, and connoisseurs
(Quirk Books, 2009; distr. Raincoast, 191 pages, ISBN 978-1-59474-261-
3, $19.95US hard covers) is by Marnie Old, who also authored the wine
half of "He Said Beer, She Said Wine" (2008). She's a Master Sommelier,
a native of Winnipeg, and now a Philadelphia-based wine writer. She's
taken excerpts from the writings of 40 important wine people. I am
surprised at how many of these people I actually know, such as Don
Ziraldo, Gina Gallo, Ed Sbragia, Michael Mondavi, Tom Stevenson,
Randall Grahm, Jean Trimbach, and Natalie MacLean. Most of the rest I
had heard of. Topics range from basic winemaking, terroir, oak
treatment, old world/new world styles, tasting wines, aroma-body-
acidity-tannin, closures (twist tops, corks, boxes, et al) – forty in
all at four pages or so each. Then Marnie puts her own spin and
comments on the advice. Little bios are given for each source.
Audience and level of use: good gift book
Some interesting or unusual facts: Wines that will age gracefully for
decades are becoming rarer every year.
The downside to this book: I would have liked more comments and
articles.
The upside to this book: fairly comprehensive for beginners.
Quality/Price Rating: 89,

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Some Interesting Cookbooks for the Fall 2009

 RISOTTO WITH NETTLES; a memoir with food (Chatto & Windus, 2009;
distr. Random House Canada, 326 pages, ISBN 978-0-701-18098-0, $34.95
Canadian hard covers) is by Anna Del Conte, who has written a dozen
books on Italian cooking. Many of them have won awards. Here, she
recounts her life in a sort-of memoir/autobiography. She was born in
pre-war Italy, arrived in England in 1949, married an Englishman and
stayed on. She has been well-known for bringing forth Italian food to
the English palate. This is her story of food in her life, and the
tastes associated with her food – with recipes and plenty of cook's
notes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric
measurements, but there is no avoirdupois table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: memoir lovers, food historians.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: bollito misto; bomba di
panna e marrons glace; pasta and bean soup; gnocchi; polenta biscuits;
baked sardines; Swiss chard torte.
The downside to this book: the few photos are dark and murky.
The upside to this book: There's a general index to the book, and a
separate index to recipes and food.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

4. SLOW COOKER: the best cookbook ever with more than 400 easy-to-make
recipes (Chronicle Books, 2009, 544 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6657-6,
$24.95 US paper covers) is by Diane Phillips, author of 14 cookbooks
and a food consultant/teacher. This is a convenient book in that it
adapts many conventional recipes to the slow cooker. As many readers
know, you put a few items in the slow cooker in the A.M., set it for
some hours, and then it will be ready when you get home. Almost like
magic. Philips gives extensive details on the workings of the slow
cooker, the need for a dry pantry. spices and a larder, plus
maintenance/care of the cooker. There have been other books over the
years, but this one is one of the fattest with a wider range of
applications. It's arranged by technique, from soup and chiles through
casserole and stews, with separate chapters on fish, beef, poultry,
pork, lamb, veggies, breads and desserts. And there are seventy-five
pages on party planning. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents at
the back.
Audience and level of use: home cooks, beginners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cheesy broccoli soup, huevos
rancheros, beef enchiladas with chipotle sauce, artichoke spinach dip,
grits casserole, cherries jubilee lava cake, braised root vegetables.
The downside to this book: I found the typeface to be a little on the
light side.
The upside to this book: good database and selection of recipes.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

 

 

5. THE ILLUSTRATED QUICK COOK (DK, 2009, 544 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-
5577-8, $35 US) has been edited by Heather Whinney, a British food
writer and editor. The basics here: 700 plus recipes, many to be ready
in 30 minutes or less, 1,000 photos of finished dishes, quick
techniques, step-by-step master recipes. Categories involve everyday
family meals and express entertaining. Of course you will need three
things that not everyone has: a larder-pantry, a mise-en-place, and
food prepared in advance. She has planners, tables, and an illustrated
table of contents. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there are also metric tables
of equivalents and conversion charts. Extra features include: menu
planners, recipe chooser galleries, Cheat tips, Cook's Notes, recipe
variations, and practical information to introduce every time-saving
device. Signs are used to indicate prep times and cooking times.
Audience and level of use: harried beginners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: quesadilla with feta cheese,
green olives and peppers; asparagus and herb tart; spiced pork and
chicken pie; shepherd's pie (which correctly calls for lamb); coq au
vin; pork with fennel and mustard.
The downside to this book: the book weighs too much – it is not
convenient at more than five pounds.
The upside to this book: gorgeous colour photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

6. THE ENTERTAINING ENCYCLOPEDIA; essential tips for recipes and
perfect parties (Robert Rose, 2009, 477 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0219-8,
$24.95 US paper covers) is by Denise Vivaldo, founder of Food Fanatics,
a catering, recipe-development and food-styling firm
(foodfanatics.net). Some of her earlier books start with the title "Do
It for Less" – as guides to parties or weddings. This current book
presents about 200 recipes and scores of proven party ideas, menus and
tips. She neatly divides and conquers by telling us that there are only
six basic elements to entertaining: theme, location, décor, guests,
food and beverages, and entertainment. Then she proceeds to give us an
analysis of each with her advice. In the recipe section (which begins
on page 201), she gives us the essential preps for appetizers, salads,
soups, etc. through to desserts and beverages. Then come the 25 theme
menus with page references fort each recipe suggested. International
cuisine and party favours are highlighted, as in a Turkish Twilight, a
German Feast, a Mexican Fiesta, a Western Hoedown, or a Chinese
Banquet. And there is a quick reference guide which also serves as a
checklist. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric
and avoirdupois measurements, and there is no need for tables of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: the adventuresome who wish to throw a party.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: oven-roasted kalua pork;
pear bread pudding; smoked turkey on sage mini scones; crab and blue
cheese bundles; rock shrimp salad wraps; petit lobster pot pies;
cheddar cumin scones with Black Forest ham.
The downside to this book: many regular recipes (e.g., French onion
soup) can be located in other, more general cookbooks.
The upside to this book: great collection of ideas, all in one place.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

7. THE NEW THANKSGIVING TABLE; an American celebration of family,
friends, and food (Chronicle Books, 2008, 2009, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-
8118-6493-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Diane Morgan, a Portland, OR
freelance food writer and multiple cookbook author for Chronicle Books.
This book is best meant for the US market, since it presents preps from
every region in the US. It is available in time for American purchase,
but not for Canadian (I just got the book near the end of September).
Nevertheless, it does a fine job in presenting the parameters of the
holiday, which appears to loom larger in US minds than in Canadian
minds. There are lots of material on the nature of celebration, the
harvest and seasonal foods, and special holiday equipment and tools.
This is followed by categories of appetizers, soups, mains, sides, and
desserts. There is of course, a special chapter on leftover faves and a
series of menus for regional thanksgivings with their own timetables
for the countdowns, beginning three weeks ahead. There is a New England
dinner, a Heartland, a Southern Style, and a Pacific Northwest. I think
she could have added a Southwest dinner and even a Cajun/Creole dinner
(didn't the deep fried whole brined turkey idea come from Louisiana?).
Each recipe has a page reference. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: for the consummate Thanksgiving Day lover.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for leftovers, try – turkey
sandwiches (several styles), turkey enchiladas, pot pie, tetrazzini,
turkey and andouille sausage gumbo, hash and eggs, turkey and veggie
chowder, turkey chili.
The downside to this book: a couple more menus could be useful, and we
can even apply them to Canada.
The upside to this book: good concept.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

8. A YEAR IN LUCY'S KITCHEN; seasonable recipes and memorable meals
(Random House Canada, 2009, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-679-31458-5, $29.95
US paper covers) is by Lucy Waverman, acclaimed food writer for the
Globe and Mail and the LCBO's Food & Drink magazine, plus several other
cookbooks. Some of the recipes are from the Globe and the LCBO. There's
even some logrolling from former GG Adrienne Clarkson and Chef Lynn
Crawford. It's arranged by month, instead of by season, which makes it
more manageable in handling the local produce and the local holidays.
Each month also has a theme, such as pasta and marmalade for January.
But otherwise, there are no free-standing recipes – everything is tied
into some celebration or theme. With February come bean soups as a
theme, with celebrations for Valentine's Day and Chinese New Year, plus
a family birthday. Husband Bruce contributes thorough wine notes,
suggesting varieties or regions rather than brand names. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no metric table of equivalents. Good use of leading in the layout.
Audience and level of use: for fans and those who want some pre-planned
menus for the year.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for a Spanish dinner, try –
shrimp with Romesco sauce; fideos (noodle nests) with chorizo, mussels
and clams; salad of arugula and artichoke fritters; tarragon-roasted
strawberries with caramel cream,
The downside to this book: it's a paperback, and it'll get heavier-
than-normal use.
The upside to this book: good tight photography of the finished dish
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

 

9. SAVORY BAKING; warm and inspiring recipes for crisp, crumbly, flaky
pastry (Chronicle Books, 2009, 168 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5906-6,
$24.95 US paper covers) is by Mary Cech, a top rated pastry chef in the
USA. She was once Charlie Trotter's pastry chef, and went on to start
the pastry program at the CIA (Greystone) in California. There is a
refreshing lack of logrolling here – she quite plainly does not need
it. The book's arranged by type: quick breads, flaky pastries, rustic,
puff pastries, cookies, and diverse sauces and spreads. She has 72
preps, ranging for easy to engaging. There is the usual baking primer
information on flours, equipment and techniques, including how to work
with pastry. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners and up, plus those who are pastry
AND savoury addicts (like me).
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: buttermilk tarragon loaf;
white cedar-zucchini pancakes; baked pomodori dumplings on an olive
salad; onion and sherry cream turnovers; spicy tomato crumble; chicken
Dijon brown betty; thyme, lemon and sea-salt shortbreads.
The downside to this book: given the need for this book, I should think
that more recipes would have been useful.
The upside to this book: there's a pronouncing glossary in case you
don't know what a pancake is.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

 

10. NORTH BAY FARMERS MARKETS COOKBOOK (Gibbs Smith, 2009, 216 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4236-0313-9, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Brigitte Moran, a
French woman who started the San Rafael farmers market in 1989. In 2004
she joined the Marin Farmers Markets and Marin Agricultural Institute
as their Executive Director. The book, also written with Amelia Spilger
as a focusing food writer, comes endorsed by Wolfgang Puck. It its
basic form, she gives us a history of farmers markets in California,
noting that there are more than 4500 farmers markets all over the USA.
There are sections on slow food and local sustainable agriculture, plus
a suggested reading list, and a resources list for farmers markets in
the North Bay area (north of San Francisco). Other than that, this is a
straightforward book highly useful for California cooks since the
emphasis is on "local" (i.e. local to California) foods. Soups to
desserts are covered, all using locally available seasonal foods.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: mostly Californian cooks, but others who use
fresh foods.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pork tamales; rabbit a la
bretonne; chicken with dates and apricots; baked halibut with red
pepper and onion; avocado and zucchini salad; blueberry-orange tartine;
asparagus and grilled shiitake; baked salmon with tomato, cucumber and
basil beurre blanc.
The downside to this book: as she prefers "sustainable", there is not
too much on organic certified foods.
The upside to this book: upbeat and positive account of people, with
good pix.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com