Oct 20/09 Event: Tasting of Grupo dos Sete Portuguese wines in Toronto

 The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 20, 2009  10:30AM to 2 PM
The Event: Tasting of Grupo dos Sete Portuguese wines (Alianca,
Aveleda, Bacalhoa, Jose Maria da Fonseca, and Messias).
The Venue: LCBO Srivener Square, Tasting Room and Dining Event Room
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: wines are mainly for show, but some are in
this market now, or will be.
The Quote/Background: we had a seminar beforehand, whereby we tasted
versions of Portuguese indigenous varietals and terroir, such as
Touriga Nacional from Setubal, from Dao, and from the Douro, and
Alvarinho, Loureiro, Fernao Pires, Touriga Franca, and Aragonez. This
was followed by a presentation of two wines from each producer, and
then an inspired Italian luncheon to pair with the wines. This group
continues to tour in Montreal and Quebec City, but with French food and
Moroccan food for lunches.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tinto da Anfora Grande Escolha 2006, $35 – 40 (Diamond Estates)
-Bacalhoa Moscatel Roxo 1999, 18.5% ABV
-Alianca Particular Dao 2008, $13.95
-Bachaloa Tinto Da Anfora 2006, $14

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Aveleda Follies Alvarinho 2008, $12
-JM da Fonseca 2005, $40 -45 (Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tannat,
Syrah, and fractions of two other grapes)
-Quinta dos 4 Ventos Reserva 2006, $55 – 60 private order
-Messias Dados Douro Reserva 2007, $30 private order
-Aveleda Charamba Douro 2007, $9
-Alianca Vista Touriga Nacional Reserva 2007, $12.95
-JP Vinhos Tinto 2008, $9

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Aveleda Vinho Verde 2008
-JM da Fonseca Periquita 2006, $9.45
-Messias Quinta do Penedo Rouge 2005
-JM da Fonseca Quinta de Camarate 2007, $9.95

 

The Food: catering came from Trattoria Sotto Sotto. With seared
scallop, tuna and shrimp came Aveleda Follies Alvarinho 2008 ($12). The
Hexagon 2005 accompanied the ravioli id zucca. With the osso buco and
polenta came the Anfora Grande Escholha 2006, the 4 Ventos Reserva
2006, and the Dados Douro Reserva 2007 – almost too many to try against
the veal. The cannoli for dessert was a delight, with the Bacalhoa
Moscatel Roxo 1999.
The Downside: we were required to be there at 10:30 sharp, although
(because of wine delays) the proceedings did not begin until 11:02. And
then the LCD multimedia projector and computer interfaces did mot meld.
Some of us felt that bad luck comes thrice, and maybe lunch would be
cold.
The Upside: a chance to drink Portuguese wines against Italian cuisine.
The Contact Person: spuritt@hotmail.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

LCBO Vintages Release Nov 21/09

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR NOVEMBER 21, 2009
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. Creator of
Canada's leading wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com.  Always at
www.deantudor.com since 1995. Also visit my "Wines, Beers and Spirits
of the Net Compendium", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS
feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits.
My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are
QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated
wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the
release for wine writers or product consultants. Also, some defective
or corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Concha y Toro Winemaker's Lot 14 Chardonnay 2008 Casablanca Valley:
elegant and expressive of the Burgundian connection. +30940, $17.95,
QPR: 90.
2. Domaine Bellevue Sauvignon Blanc Touraine 2008: basic MVC for
sauvignon blanc, refreshingly youthful, a bit more fruit than others.
3. Terres Blanches Muscat Sec 2008 Pays d'Oc: excellent muscat upfront
aromatics, value. +653188, $13.95, QPR: 91.
4. Kurt Darting Riesling Kabinett 2007 Durkheimer Michelsburg Pfalz:
off-dry, delicious as a late course white wine, good concentration of
riesling. +950212, $16.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Hahn Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Central Coast California:
fruity oak tones, vanilla, cloves especially. +57877, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Irony Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa: restaurant-ready wine with bags
of cabernet sauvignon character. +25106, $19.95, QPR: 90.
3. Lucas & Lewellen Queen of Hearts Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Santa
Barbara County: useful cabernet, ripe and accessible, appealing fruit.
It engaged me. +135368, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Dona Paula Estate Shiraz/Malbec 2007 Mendoza: excellent blend, with
each grape supporting the fruit of the other. +998492, $17.95, QPR: 90.
5. Luis Segundo Correas Las Acequias Malbec 2005 Mendoza: an oak-
infused red fruit wine with mocha. +138412, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6. Tabali Reserva Syrah 2007 Limari Valley Chile: syrah! Hot pure
Rhone. +662692, $16.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are ready to enjoy right now. Consumers
could buy and bring to those restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Chardonnay 2007, +128280, $29.95
retail.
2. Craggy Range Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Hawkes Bay NZ, +132043,
$41.95 retail.
3. Domaine Bernard Defaix Coye de Lechet Chablis 1er Cru 2007, +950667,
$31.95.
4. Domaine de la Rossignole L'Essentiel Sancerre 2007, +141143, $24.95.
5. Antinori Castello della Sala Cervaro Della Sala 2007 Umbria,
+512376, $54.95.
6. Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa, +711663,
$129.95.
7. Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Alexander Valley Sonoma, +943472,
$89.95.
8. Stags' Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa, +996405, $49.95.
9. Monte del Fra Lena di Mezzo Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006,
+134528, $44.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Oct 19/09 Event: Discover Australia 2009, Toronto trade stop over

The Time and Date: Monday, October 19, 2009   2 PM to 6 PM
The Event: Discover Australia 2009, Toronto trade stop over
The Venue: Willard Room, Hotel Intercontinental
The Target Audience: wine agents, sommeliers, media
The Availability/Catalogue: some wineries already had agents in
Ontario, but most did not. Wines are variously available through
consignment or private order.
The Quote/Background: unlike previous editions of Discover Australia,
this show had only wine exhibitors – 17 of them.
The Wines: prices are variable, but in general I was quoted AUSD FOB
per case.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-BlackJack Cabernet Merlot 2004 Victoria, $125 AUSD per case FOB
-Blue Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $17 Vintages
-Downing Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Heathcote, $45 CAD
-Josef Chromy Sparkling Rose 2008 Tasmania, $170 AUSD FOB
-Plunkett Fowles Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2008 Strathbogie Ranges, $35
CAD
-Sandhurst Ridge Merlot 2006, $32 CAD
-Vin 888 Olsen Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $25 CAD
-Ngeringa Pinot Noir 2007 Adelaide Hills, $55.95 (Living Vine)

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-BlackJack Block Shiraz 2005 Victoria, $175 AUSD FOB
-Downing Estate Vineyards Shiraz 2004 Heathcote, $45 CAD
-Galli Estate Camelback Chardonnay 2008 Victoria, $120 AUSD FOB
-Gherardi Viognier 2008 Margaret River, $20 CAD
-Josef Chromy Vintage Sparkling 2005 Tasmania, $220 AUSD FOB
-Pfeiffer Wines Chardonnay/Marsanne 2009 Rutherglen, $15.70 CAD
-Sidewood Estate Pinot Gris 2009 Adelaide Hills, $93 AUSD FOB
-Sirromet First Step Cabernet Merlot 2005 Queensland, $17 CAD
-Vin 888 Olsen Big Fella Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2004, $20 CAD
-Ngeringa J.E. Chardonnay 2008 Adelaide Hills, $55.95 (Living Vine)
-Ngeringa J.E. Assemblage Red 2008 Adelaide Hills, $42.95 (Living Vine)
– syrah, pinot noir, sangiovese, Tempranillo, nebbiolo.
-Ngeringa Syrah 2006 Adelaide Hills, $78.95 (Living Vine)

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Galli Estate Camelback Shiraz 2007 Victoria, $105 AUSD FOB
-Mount Gisborne Wines Chardonnay 2005, $20 CAD
-Vin 888 Olsen Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Reserve, $65 CAD
-Warner Glen Estate Frog Belly Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Margaret River
-Ngeringa Viognier 2008 Adelaide Hills, $64.95 (Living Vine)

 

The Food: cheeses, grilled veggies, spring rolls, tartares, breads,
marinated mushrooms.
The Downside: a light attendance
The Upside: a highlight was my tasting the Ngeringa Vineyards of
Adelaide Hills, a biodynamic winery. Pricey, but so are all biodynamic
wines.
The Contact Person: marie.ross@austrade.gov.au
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH: The Pleasures of Cooking for One (AA Knopf, 2009)

THE PLEASURES OF COOKING FOR ONE (Alfred A. Knopf, 2009, 276 pages,
ISBN 978-0-307-27072-6, $27.95 US hard covers) is by Judith Jones, a
long time cookbook and food editor at Knopf; she is the winner of the
James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She's also written a
slew of cookbooks on her own and with her late husband, Evan Jones.
After he died in 1996, Jones had to cook for just herself, and out of
that daily experience comes this book. Cooking for one is invigorating
since we can all eat our failures and play around with our leftovers.
The hard part is rallying strength to march forth to the markets and
specialty shops, tempered by the fact that we only have ourselves to
buy for and to please. She has the basics that should always be on
hand, even if frozen, such as a marinara sauce, pesto, preserved lemons
or stock, and some menu planning principles. Her book has six chapters
on making meat and fish dishes (plus recycling), soups, egg and cheese
dishes, vegetables and salads, pasta and rice and legumes, and finally,
the sweets. The first and last chapters (meats and sweets) are the
largest, probably reflecting the greater variation of preps. The layout
and typeface, plus the few illustrations, are all excellent.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: anybody who cooks for one or two.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: calf's liver with shallot
and wine pan sauce; skirt steak; gratin or beef, mushrooms, and
breadcrumbs; pumpkin or winter squash soup; winter bean soup;
frittatas; cheese soufflé; wild rice pilaf; pear crisp; peanut butter
cookies.
The downside to this book: some wine ideas or suggestions could have
been useful, plus some music or spoken word CDs or reading matter could
be noted.
The upside to this book: this is also a good book for beginner cooks,
students, and preps can be almost doubled to serve two or more diners.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Oct 16/09 Event: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada tasting of 40 sparkling wines

The Time and Date: Friday, October 16, 2009  10:30 AM to 1 PM
The Event: a Wine Writers' Circle of Canada tasting of 40 sparkling
wines in the Ontario "Holiday" market place.
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square, Summerhill
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available through the LCBO,
although some will be coming in the near future.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-  Pol Roger Brut Reserve  12.5% alc  #51953  General List  $58.80 Epernay, France.
-  Taittinger  Brut Millesime  2002  12.5% alc    CSPC  989905  Vintages  $87.25 Reims, France.
-  G.H. Mumm  Carte Classique  NV   12% alc   #308064  $56.65   Reims, France.
-  Perrier-Jouet  Grand Brut  NV  12% alc  #50278 $64.45    Epernay, France.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): --
-  Henry of Pelham  Cuvee Catharine   VQA  NV  12% alc  CSPC 616441  Vintages  $29.95   
Niagara Peninsula
-  Henry of Pelham  Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut  VQA NV  12% alc  CSPS 4051  $29.95  LCBO
-  Hungaria  Grande Cuvee Brut  NV   11.5% alc  LCBO 619288  $11.90  Budapest, Hungary
-G.H. Mumm  Brut  NV  12% Alc  #308056  $59.95  Reims, France.
-  Segura Viudas  Brut Reserva   Cava  NV  11.5% alc  General List  158493  $14.65  Spain
-  Pascual Toso  Malbec Rose Sparkling  Avail spring 2010 in clear bottle.$14.95
-  Bottega  Petalo 'Il Vino dell'Amore" Moscato Sparkling   NV  6.5% alc    General List #588780 
$12.95  (temporary price reduction until Jan 2/10  
-  Belcanto di Bellussi  Proseco XD  VSQPRD  11.5% alc   Vintages  #53215  $17.95  Italy.
-  Lanson Black Label Brut  NV  12.5% alc  CSPC 41889  $56.95  Reims, France.
-  Lanson  Rose Label  Rose Brut  NV  12.5% alc  CSPC 94458  $59.95  Reims, France.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-  Remy Pannier Brut  NV   Chardonnay  12% alc  #341669  $11.65  France.
-  Bottega  Vino dei Poeti  Prosecco Brut  NV 11% alc  General List 897702  $14.30 Italy.
-  Col de' Salici  Prosecco  Spumante Extra Dry  NV  11.5% alc  Consignment  # 293471   $14.95
-  Deinhard  Lila  Brut  Riesling  12.5%  #160648  Vintages MARCH 6, 2010.  Germany   $13.95.
-  Piper-Heidseick  Cuvee Brut  NV   12% alc  +462432  $49.95    Reims, France.
-  Freixenet  Cordon Negro  Brut  D.O. Cava  12% alc  # 88591  $13.95/750ml   #167791 
$4.25/200ml  #180588  $24.95/l.5L  Spain
-  Santa Margherita  Brut Prosecco de Valdobbiadene   11.5% alc  #687582  Vintages  $18.95 
-  Mumm Napa   Brut Prestige  NV  13% alc  #265678    $27.95  Napa, CA
-  Freixenet  Carta Nevada Brut D.O. Cava  12% alc  #74757  $13.95   Spain
 
The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Oct 7/09 Event: Chilean Wine Festival trade tasting

The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009   2PM to 4:30PM
The Event: Chilean Wine Festival trade tasting
The Venue: Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are here, or will be here.
The Quote/Background: the venue, as in other years, was dark. This
might be appropriate at night, but at the trade show, I want to see
what I taste.
The Wines: I had already tasted some 41 wines in September, and I list
the highlights here –

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Vina Sena Arboleda Chardonnay 2008 Casablanca, Vintages,
$15.95
-Vina Emiliana Organico Novas Winemaker's Selection
Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne 2007 Casablanca, $18.95
Vintages +63909 March 2010

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Vina Montes Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Leyda
Valley, +32060, $14.95
-Vina Veramonte Reserva Chardonnay 2007 Casablanca, +49443
Vintages, $14.95, Oct 24/09
-Vina Casa Tamaya Reserva Syrah 2007 Limari, +135418,
$15.85
-Vina Nativa Gran Reserva Single Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon 2006 Maipo (organic), +975359, $19.99 Vintages
Dec 5, 2009.

 

At the trade show, then, these were my scores; I did not taste every
wine.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Botalcura Cayao Icon Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2003 Rapel, $49.95 HHD
Imports
-Caliterra Cenit Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Petit Verdot 2006 Colchagua,
$67 +143917 Vintages
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $19.95
Vintages +337238
-Vina Maipo Limited Edition Syrah 2006 Maipo, $29.95 Select
-Perez Cruz Quelen Petit Verdot/Cot/Carmenere 2006 Maipo, $55 Charton
Hobbs
-Santa Rita Pehuen Carmenere 2005 Apalta, $54.95 Mark Anthony
-Terra Andina Suyai Cabernet Franc/Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua, $29.95 Mark Anthony
-Undurraga Terroir Hunter Syrah 2007 Limari, $27.95 Azureau
-Valdivieso Caballo Loco no. 10 Bordeaux Blend Central Valley, +59147,
$44 Vintages
-Viu Manent Viu 1 Malbec/Petit Verdot 2007 Colchagua Valley, $86.25
Churchill Cellars.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Botalcura La Porfia Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $22.95 HHD
Imports
-Botalcura La Porfia Grand Reserve Carmenere 2006, $22.95 HHD Imports
-Caliterra Tributo Edicion Limitada Carmenere/Malbec 2006 Colchagua,
$24.95 +143487 Vintages
-Carta Vieja G7 Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2007 Maule, $17.95 Small
Winemakers
-Vina Chocalan Gran Reserva Malbec 2006 Maipo, $27.25 Vintages
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007, +342857 $17.95
Vintages
-Vina Maipo Gran Devocion Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah 2007, $18.95 Select
-Vina Montes Purple Angel Carmenere 2006 Colchagua, $49.95 +62364
Vintages
-Valdivieso Reserva Chardonnay 2007, +981621 $17.95 Vintages
-Veramonte Primus Red Blend 2006 Colchagua, +712463 $24.95 Vintages

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Luis Felipe Edwards Dona Bernarda Red Blend 2006 Colchagua, $34.95

 

The Food: pulled pork appetizers, cured salmon on plaintain, cheeses
(including a creamy gorgonzola), both beef and chicken empanadas.
The Downside: the show was too short. I never finished, and that was
just tasting the wines I wanted to taste – never mind the others.
The Upside: the first hour and a half had light attendance, so I could
roam.
The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

2009 Cuisine Canada Book Awards

 

The Time and Date: Friday, November 6, 2009   12 noon to 4 PM

The Event: Announcement of the winners of the 2009 Canadian Culinary Book Awards (hosted by Cuisine Canada and University of Guelph)

The Venue: Direct Energy Centre Building, adjacent to the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair.

The Target Audience: contenders, their guests and the media. A large number of people turned up, which is always a good sign.

The Quote/Background: More than 50 cookbooks published in Canada in 2008 were assessed since April, 2009. These are the 12^th annual presentations, the second at the Royal Winter Fair.

The Wines: we had three wines, all from Niagara College Teaching Winery. First up was the Sauvignon Blanc 2008, which caught me by surprise since it was straw and golden in colour, and did not have the initial zest of a sauvignon blanc. It was an atypical wine, served with the appetizers (crab and cucumber, asparagus and Balderson cheese with toast) prepared by Rootham Gourmet Preserves, using some of their preserves. With the reception food, we had a Cabernet Franc 2006 (nicely maturing, even throwing a deposit) and a Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007 from the Ziraldo Vineyard in St. David. The chardonnay was excellent, redolent with lanolin unctuousness and oak tones, and the same colour as the Sauvignon Blanc.

And the award goes to…: it took a while to get through the bilingual introductions. The awards were for both French and English language books. The winner of the Canadian Culinary Landmarks Hall of Fame (a new category reserved for Hall of Fame type books) was "Culinary Landmarks; a bibliography of Canadian cookbooks, 1825-1949" by Elizabeth Driver (UTPress). The Gold winner in the English Cookbook Category was "Small plates for Sharing" edited by Laurie Stempfle (Company's Coming Publishing). The Gold in the English Special Interest Category was "Beyond the Great Wall; recipes and travels in the other China" (Random House Canada) by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. And the Gold for the English Canadian Food Culture Category was "Anita Stewart's Canada" (HarperCollins). For other winners and French language winners, check www.cuisinecanada.ca.

The Food: At the closing reception for the winners, we enjoyed a range of dishes prepared by Jeff Crump of Ancaster Old Mill (risotto with cauliflower and mushrooms), Jim Loat of Borealis Grille in Guelph (smoked elk ragout on red fife tagliatelle), David Garcelon of the Fairmont Royal York Hotel (pork loin from Willowgrove Hill Farm with cabbages), baking and pastry students from George Brown Chef School (cookies, apple-cheddar savoury muffins with prosciutto slices, butternut squash bisque), and Wanda Beaver from Wanda's Pie in the Sky (pecan pies, cookies, etc.)

The Website: www.cuisinecanada.ca will have further details on these awards plus more.

The Downside: all the food service lines were packed into one corner which made for a really bad traffic jam. The other end of the room was free, and George Brown and Wanda could have been located there.

The Upside: food was terrific, and matched rather well with the wines. With the long lines it was impossible NOT to talk to others around you.

The Contact Person: fionalucas@rogers.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

SOME NEW WINE PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH

 

1. Passion of Portugal, +146449, $7.65, at entry level price for the
LCBO General List. One of the first of the new bread from Europe to
counteract Fuzion and similar wines. This one, imported by Majestic
Wine, comes from Lisboa region. It is a charming blend of Tinta Roriz,
Tinta Barroca, and Pinot Noir. It shows rich red fruit, like strawbs
and rasps, with some overtones of vanilla. Upfront and juicy.
Complemented by the softer tannins, this wine can be used with parties
or sippers rather than food. Not very Euro in style, more a New World
wine.

 

2. Stratus Gamay 2007 Niagara, $29 winery only: Ontario is doing some
fantastic things with longer aged gamay, a sort of over-the-top Morgon.
Stratus has its cooperage here set at 639 days in all French oak (43%
new), 14% ABV. A super-blast of red fruit density from the charming
2007 vintage, but needs keeping awhile. My bottle was opened and
savoured for a week.

 

3. Stratus Cabernet Franc 2007 Niagara, $38 winery only, with a small
amount in Vintages in 2010: Ontario makes superb Cabernet Franc (it
seems to be our signature grape), and this one has spent 630 days in
all new French oak. Expect toastiness and some red fruit tones, as well
as mocha and vanills. 2007 was a long hot growing season. Needs keeping
awhile. My bottle was opened and savoured for a week. The winery has
the cellar potential at 10+ years.

 

4. Frei Joao Bairrada Portugal 2006, +144469, $14.95 Vintages Nov
21/09, very much on the food wine side with early harvested Baga grapes
(40% of the cuvee). Also here: 30% Touriga Nacional, 15% Tinta Roriz,
and 15% Merlot to soften the finish. It can age well, will be drinking
better next year. Expect some fried figs, mocha, and light vanilla
tones from partial wood aging for 1 year. 13% ABV.

 

From Applewood Farm Winery (Stouffville), each fall brings new wines
from the fruit harvest. High on my list is the Mac Meade sparkler,
about 7% ABV with a sugar code of 3, priced at $12.95 retail at the
winery (all products are sold at the winery). This is a combo of
Macintosh apples and honey, sweet but also crisp in the finish. Good as
aperitif or with cheeses later in the meal. It is complemented to some
extent by the sparkling raspberry cider, termed Crazy Eight because of
its 8.8% ABV. The raspberry is available by the 341 mL "beer bottle"
format with a twist crown cap: expect mounds of raspberry flavour with
a finishing crispness. Refreshing on its own, or with food. $3 a
bottle, or on sale at $50 for a "two-four".

 

Applewood Farm Winery also has some heavy hitters for the end of the
dinner feast. There's an Iced Apple Cider 2007, a bit syrupy with sweet
caramel, only $14.95 for a 375mL bottle. It is good competition for
Quebec at 13% ABV with a sugar code of 18. It won a Silver Medal at the
All-Canada Wine Awards held earlier this year at Windsor. The 2008
version will be out next month; it is just being bottled, and it is
more over the top. My first impression was a syrup for a pancake
brunch, thick viscosity, heavy caramel and vanilla aromas. Apparently,
there are 46 apples used in every half-bottle of the 2008, which will
increase the price to just under $20. Also for dessert there is Black
Forest Cherry 2007 (13% ABV, $12.95, 375mL) with highly aromatic black
cherry scents and flavours following through with an added real 
chocolate component (hence the name: you supply your own whipped
cream).

 

And Applewood likes to experiment with port-style wines. There's a Pear
Port which I have enjoyed in the past; it is now joined by and intense
Black Currant Port (20% ABV, $19.95, 750 mL) and an amazing Small Cask
Buckwheat Honey 2005 (20% ABV, $19.95, 500 mL) redolent of buckwheat
tones and oaking, another pancake topper.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH: World Whiskey (DK, 2009)

WORLD WHISKEY (DK, 2009, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-5443-6, $25 US,
hard covers) has been edited by Charles MacLean, author of ten books on
whiskey (including the definitive "Scotch Whisky" and "Malt Whisky").
The writers include Dave Broom, Tom Bruce-Gardyne, Ian Buxton, Peter
Mulryan, Hans Offringa, and Gavin D. Smith. While it does not appear
that articles are actually signed, each writer has a mini-biography of
credentials. The books very similar to the late Michael Jackson's
WHISKEY; the definitive world guide, published by DK in 2005 with 288
pages. This is another "tell all" book, international in scope. It is
comprehensive and somewhat authoritative, with 167 pages on Scotland,
34 for Irish, 12 on Canada, 50 on the USA, 25 for Japan, 13 for the
rest of Europe, and six for Australasia. The writers clearly show the
impact of climate, water, heather, sea breeze, barley, peat, malting
techniques, distillation processes, type of wood used for storage,
maturation periods. General sections cover aromas and flavours, peats
and bogs, regions, terroirs – with lots of illustrations and diagrams.
There are short sections on whiskey cocktails (with recipes), and food
and whiskey pairing. But this is principally a directory to some of the
finest distilled grain-based spirits in the world (over 700 of them,
with 1200 colour photos). After the first 20 pages of general
materials, the country-by-country arrangement begins with Scotland, of
course. The guide to the major producers of single-malt scotch, small
batch bourbons, and pure pot Irish includes contact details and
reproductions of bottles. Tasting notes are also included. There are
five whiskey tours through Speyside, Islay, Ireland, Kentucky, and
Japan.
Audience and level of use: wine schools, whiskey lovers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "Islay's constant wind carries a
mist of sweet, salt-laden air, the whiff of the sea, the coconut aroma
of hot gorse, a hint of peat smoke and bog myrtle, and the smell of a
just-spent fire on the beach. All the notes you pick up in its malts
are there, floating in the Atlantic wind".
What I don't like about this book: it is hard to fault, but maybe a
pronunciation guide could have been useful. More maps would also have
engaged me.
What I do like about this book: good thick paper. There are tasting
notes and good descriptions of vatted malts.
Quality/Price Ratio: 91.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Oct 6/09 Event: annual portfolio tasting of the Profile Wine Group

The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2009  1PM to 8PM
The Event: annual portfolio tasting of the Profile Wine Group
The Venue: Liberty Grand
The Target Audience: wine trade, private clients – about 1300 in all!
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available through LCBO
Vintages, Consignment or Private Order.
The Quote/Background: Profile Wine Group brings together Barrique, Vin
Vino and Du Chasses agencies. They are strong on Italian wines and
American wines. In recent years, they have added more from Portugal and
France, as well as Megalomaniac from Ontario and Domaine Antolino Brogo
Apple Ice Cider from Quebec.
The Wines: with over 300 wines, I only tasted a sampling – prices are
retail

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Maverick Twins Chardonnay 2007 Australia, $27.95 Private Order
-Jip Jip Rocks Sparkling Shiraz 2008 Australia, $14.95 Private Order
-Dom Antolino Brogo Cryomalus Ice Cider 2007 Quebec $36.95 half-bottle
Consignment
-L'Ecole #41 Columbia Valley Semillon 2007, $23.95 Private Order
-Oakville Ranch Chardonnay 2007, $45.95 Private Order
-Columbia Crest Chardonnay 2006, $17.95 Private order
-Champagne Marguet Cuvee Grand Cru 2002, $57.95 Private order
-Cellar Pinol Mather Teresina 2004/05 Red Spain, $49 LCBO Web
-Bodegas LAN Limitada 2005 Spain, $54.95 Cons
-Bodega LAN Culmen 2004, $79.95 Private Order
-Bodega LAN Rioja Gran Reserva 2001, $27.95 Vintages
-Signorello Estate Cabernet 2006 California, $71.95 Cons
-Miner Chardonnay 2007 Napa, $34.95 Cons
-Peter Franus Brandin Vineyard Zinfandel 2006, $47.95 Cons
-L'Ecole #41 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot 2006, $42.95 Vintages

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rutini Chardonnay 2007 Argentina, $21.95 Private Order
-Penmara Chardonnay Reserve 2006 Australia, $20.95 Private Order
-Wakefield Estate Chardonnay 2008 Australia, $19.95 Consignment
-Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Reserva 2006, $29.95 Cons
-Terreblanca Croce Chianti Riserva 2005, $32.95 Cons
-Bersano Gavi 2008, $17.95 Consignment
-Gordon Bros Kamiak Windust White 2008, $19.95 Private Order – blend of
chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and 10% gewurztraminer
-Columbia Crest Chardonnay 2008 Grand Estate, $20.95 Private order
-Villa Mt. Eden Bien Nacido Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2006, $24.95 Cons
-Martin Ray Angelina Sonoma Chardonnay 2007, $22.95 Private Order
-Martin Ray Russian River Chardonnay 2007, $31.95 Cons
-J. Lohr Riverstone Estate Chardonnay 2006, $19.95 LCBO General
-J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay 2006, $32.95 Private Order
-J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay 2006, $32.95 Private Order
-Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay 2006, $32.95 Cons
-M.Picard Montagny 2007, $42.30
-Champagne Marguet Cuvee Gran d Cru Rose 2003, $60.95 Private Order
-Pierre Sparr Riesling Reserve 2007, $16.95 LCBO Vintages
-Signorello Edge Cabernet 2007, $33.95 Cons
-Signorello Fuse Cabernet 2006, $38.95 Cons
-Amity Chardonnay Reserve 2007 Oregon, $32.95 Cons
-Keenan Chardonnay Spring Mountain District 2007, $41.95 Private Order
-Oakville Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $64.95 Private Order
-Miner Oracle Napa 2005 (bordeaux-blend), $79.95 Cons
-Chateau Teyssier St. Emilion Laforge Grand Cru, $89.95 Cons
-Chateau Teyssier St. Emilion, $41.95
-J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Paso Robles, $20.95
Vintages

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Argento Chardonnay 2008 Argentina, $9.75 LCBO General List
-Crios Chardonnay 2009 Argentina, $16.95 Consignment
-Megalomaniac My Way Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, $24.75 Consignment.
-Falernia Pedro Ximenez 2009 Chile, $13.95 Private order – bone-dry
white, unusual.
-Chateau de Ste. Michelle Chardonnay 2007, $17.95 Vintages
-Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Chardonnay 2008, $22.95 Private
order
-Merryvale Starmont Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $29.95 Private Order
-Stonehedge Sauvignon Blanc 2007 California, $17.95 Cons
-Stonehedge Chardonnay 2007 California, $17.95 Cons
-Miner Viognier 2007 California, $19.95 Cons

 

The Food: we had cheeses from Thornloe Cheese in Ontario and Fifth Town
cheeses from Prince Edward County (Isabella, Petal Luma, Cape Vessey,
and Lighthall Tomme, all cave aged). Pingue Prosciutto was available,
as well as seven great olive oils with breads from St. John's Bakery.
The Downside: too many wines to sample in one day, but only ONE
Zinfandel in the entire California range.
The Upside: a good range of Chardonnays for every price point and every
style.
The Contact Person: www.profilewinegroup.com or giovanni@vinvino.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Oct 5/09 Event: a tasting of Chateau des Charmes wines, just released

Dean Tudor 

The Time and Date: Monday, October 5, 2009  4PM to 8PM
The Event: a tasting of Chateau des Charmes wines, just released and
featuring new labels.
The Venue: Chefs' House, George Brown College
The Target Audience: wine writers, trade, private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the winery,
and some
The Quote/Background: three of the wines are at Vintages Oct 24 as part
of the On Tour release. The new wine labels feature a QR Code (2D code)
which is useful for mobile tagging. Just run your phone over the label
tag, and you'll get updated info on the wine's features, direct from
the winery – provided you've installed the enabling software first.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Brut Methode Traditionnelle, $22.95 +145409,
Recently Disgorged and all from one vintage. Underpriced.
-Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Gris Estate Bottled 2008, $19.95 +122291
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc Estate Bottled 2007, $13.95
+277236. Underpriced.
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot "Old Vines" Estate Bottled 2005,
$19.95 +222372. Underpriced. Vintages Oct 24.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay St. David's Bench Vineyard 2006, $19.95
+430991, Vintages Oct 24.
-Chateau des Charmes Merlot St. David's Bench Vineyard 2007, $29.95
+453431. Vintages Oct 24.
-Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling Estate Bottled 2007, $19.95
half-bottle. +432930.
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc Icewine Estate Bottled 2007, $75.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Gewurztraminer St. David's Bench Vineyard 2007,
$19.95 +453472. Vintages Oct 24.
-Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree Estate Bottled 2008, $13.95
+277236

 

The Food: superb cheeses from Quebec and Ontario, featuring Le
Rassembleau (raw cow), Tuscano, Niagara Gold, Operetta, and Cru des
Champlain (raw cow); lamb sliders; good pork bellies; smoked salmon;
and a variety of interesting charcuterie (four kinds including pork
shoulder), with in-house androuilletes and in-house game terrine
(caribou, rabbit, poultry) accompanied by diverse relishes and veggie
pickles. Great accompaniment for the wines.
The Downside: I had to leave early, my fault.
The Upside: a chance to speak with both Paul Boscs, who are just as
witty as ever, and the delightful organizer Michele Bosc.
The Contact Person: michele@chateaudescharmes.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com