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Monday, December 28, 2009

Nov 25/09 - Trade Tasting - Alvaro Palacios

The Time and Date:  Wednesday, November 25, 2009  1 PM to 3:30 PM
The Event: a standup tasting of 9 wines with Spain's Alvaro Palacios,
with agent Woodman Wines & Spirits.
The Venue: Spoke Club, King Street
The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers, private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: mostly upcoming Vintages, but also some
private orders.
The Quote/Background: After training in Bordeaux under Jean-Pierre
Moueix at Chateau Petrus, Alvaro Palacios returned to Spain where he
helped to found "The New Spain". His wines have won him cult status
(especially L'Ermita) and he has been named "Winemaker of the Year" by
at least one wine publication. Wines today come from all three of his
properties in Priorat, Rioja, and Bierzo.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
--Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2006 Moncerbal (single vineyard),
$107 +154443 Classics February 2010
--Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2006 Las Lamas (single vineyard),
$107 +154427 Classics February 2010
-Alvaro Palacios Priorat 2007 Finca Dofi, $92 Private/Consignment
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bodegas Palacios Remondo Rioja 2006 La Montesa, $20 +674572 Vintages
-Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2007 Petalos, $24 +675207 Vintages
-Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2006 Villa de Corullon, $56
+154435 Classics February 2010
-Alvaro Palacios Priorat 2007 Les Terrasses, $43 Private/Consignment
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bodegas Palacios Remondo Rioja 2008 La Vendimia, $16 +674564 Vintages
-Alvaro Palacios Priorat 2007 Camins del Priorat, $26
Private/Consignment
 
The Food: mushroom tartlets, red pepper crostini, cheeses, dried fruit,
crackers.
The Contact Person:  info@woodmanwinesandspirits.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.
 
 

Monday, December 21, 2009

Food and Wine Books Stocking Stuffers (Holiday Gifts)

 
Stocking stuffers are at the top of everybody's Holiday gift list: something
affordable (under $10, up to $20) that can also double as a host gift,
something small and lightweight. Most of the books here are paperbacks.
And of course they can stuff an adult stocking. Typical for food are:
 
FIELD GUIDE TO CANDY; how to identify and make virtually every candy
imaginable (Quirk Books, 2009, 318 pages, $19.95 CAD paper covers) is
by Anita Chu, and it must be at the top of everybody's gift list. It's
in a handbook format, and is one of a series of others devoted to
cookies, cocktails, herbs and spices. The book is arranged by type, so
all of the largely chocolate, nuts and fruits are together. Here are
100 recipes and variations (international in scope) covering caramel
apples, lollipops, Turkish delight, French pralines, and more. Each
product gets a general description, a history, and storage dos and
don'ts.
 

CHOP, SIZZLE & STIR (Ryland Peters & Small, 2009, 64 pages, $17.95
hardcover) is Nadia Arumugam, who had trained with the legendary
Mosimann. She serves up 35 fresh and fast stir-fries, plus variations.
All meats and vegetables are included, and of course, a wok is
preferred.
 

PESTOS, TAPENADES AND SPREADS (Chronicle Books, 2009, 96 pages, $16.95
USD soft covers) is by Stacey Printz. She has 12 different pestos and
14 tapenades, plus some spreads. The idea is to increase flavour by
adding just one teaspoon or so of pesto, etc. to almost any dish. I'm
all for that, although it would add to the salt component. Some recipes
here are nut-free and gluten-free. Try some edamame hummus, or some
balsamic fig with caramelized onion and dried cherry.
 

CAFFE ITALIA (Ryland Peters & Small, 2009, 64 pages, $17.95 hardcover)
is by Liz Franklin, a one time finalist in the BBC Masterchef
competition. Here she presents over 30 (plus variations) preps for
cookies, cakes, savoury panini, and the like – to accompany the Italian
coffee culture. There's some quick info on how to brew coffee, but
otherwise this is a fine short collection of food to go with coffee.
 

GUIDE TO HEALTHY FAST FOOD EATING, 2nd ed (McGraw Hill Canada, 2009, 294
pages, $12.95 paper covers) is by Hope Warshaw, a medical expert who
has written several books for the American Diabetes Association. Here
she gives nutrition info for 13 of the most popular US fast food
franchises, and most are in Canada, such as Baskin Robbins, Subway,
Pizza Hut, Burger King, McDonald, and Wendy. A great way to control
your weight when you eat in those joints: she gives healthy and light
choices, and suggests skills and strategies to create healthy meals at
these places. It's a jungle out there; you'll need all the help you can
get.
 

I'M DREAMING OF A GREEN CHRISTMAS (Chronicle Books, 2009, 180 pages,
$24.95 US soft covers) is above my price range, but it is the only book
I've seen this year to promote gifts, decorations, and recipes that
"use less" and "mean more". It has been endorsed by a few environmental
activists, and printed on 100% post-consumer waste recycled paper. It's
been written by activist Anna Getty. She carefully explains how to
reduce your carbon footprint, minimize waste, and creatively reuse.
There are tips on nesting at home, entertaining, trimming the tree,
giving donations.
 

100 SOUPS FOR $5 OR LESS (Gibbs Smith, 2009, $12.99 US paper covers) is
by Gayle Pierce. It is an open and shut book with easy recipes (one per
page plus variations). She emphasizes new things to do with veggies.
Each prep has lists of calories and fats per serving, and comes with
shopping tips, planning advice, and cooking tips. The arrangement is by
theme: light soups, bean soups, cream soups, fruit soups, meat-poultry-
seafood soups.
 

100 DESSERTS FOR $5 OR LESS (Gibbs Smith, 2009, 144 pages, $12.95 US
paper covers) is by Angel Shannon. It is set up the same way as the
Soup book above: easy recipes, one prep per page plus variations, and
covers cakes, candy, cookies, frozen deserts, pies, tarts, sauces and
frostings.
 

Other little books, for beverages, include:
 

PARKER'S WINE BARGAINS; the world's best wine values under $25 (Simon &
Schuster, 2009, 498 pages, $24 CAD soft cover) is by Robert Parker,
Jr., the world's most recognizable wine writer. This has been an
eagerly awaited book, since it would be a first for Parker. Previously,
he had issued from time to time a listing of his best bargains as he
wrote them in his "The Wine Advocate". But this is the first full-blown
attempt to list bargains. And, of course, it exceeds my $20 retail
limit on gift book purchases. But you can get it for $17.52 through
Amazon. It is organized by country, with 1500 producers and over 3000
wines. He uses his contributor team of Jay Miller, Antonio Galloni,
Mark Squires and others for notes, but he made the ultimate selection
of labels. The downside is that no vintage years are given. Now, while
the hallmark of a bargain wine is its consistency year in and year out,
a $25 US wine will show flavour variation from year to year, and some
vintages are better than others are. And the lack of dating keeps the
book fresher on the shelf. Parker has a food and wine pairing guide, a
vintage chart, and numerous top twenty lists. There are generic
regional tasting notes and American details about importers and stores.
Since we have the LCBO, this shouldn't concern us. A terrific book for
the Christmas season, and watch for more of these imports listed here
to show up at the LCBO.
 

SPICE & ICE (Chronicle Books, 2009, 160 pages, $16.95 US soft covers)
is by Kara Newman, who writes the "High Spirits" column for Chile
Pepper magazine. Here are 60 tongue-tingling cocktails, made with some
component of fresh chile peppers, or ginger or horseradish. There are
both fruity and savoury here, including the likes of "Wasabi-tinis" and
"Jumpin' Juleps". Excellent photos, and as the man says, "put a little
spice into your life".
 

CHEERS! An intemperate history of Beer in Canada (Collins, 2009, 321
pages, $19.99 CAD soft covers) is by the irrepressible Nicholas
Pashley, the celebrated writer of "Notes on a Beermat". He's written
scads of humour material in columns, for Dave Broadfoot, and three
governors general. Here he takes a light look at Canadian beer history.
It's a wide-ranging book, but it is a history written with a deft hand.
It even has an annotated bibliography and an index! I love the double-
blurring of the Mountie on the front cover and a double-blurred Pashley
himself (complete with red eye) on the back – beer doppelgangers all.
 

HOT DRINKS; indulgent hot chocolates, great coffees, soothing teas,
spiced punches, and other warming treats for cold days (Ryland, Peters
& Small, 2009 reissue, 96 pages, $16.95 US hard covers) is by Louise
Pickford, an experienced cookbook writer from the UK now living in
Australia. We'll need these hot drinks in the coming cold months of
2010. 75 recipes include Swedish glogg, hot rum and cider punch, and a
variety of milk drinks.
 

TEA WISDOM; inspirational quotes and quips about the world's most
celebrated beverage (Tuttle Publishing, 2009, 240 pages, $18.95 CAD
paper covers) has been collated by Aaron Fisher, who has written
extensively about tea ("The Art of Tea" magazine). This is a rock solid
collection of quotes and glosses from different time periods and
different regions of the world. I think the idea is to savour a cuppa
while reading parts of this book everyday. It should calm your nerves
over this rushed and argumentative season.
 

Still other smallish books include:
 
THE LOCAVORE WAY (Storey Publishing, 2009; distr. T. Allen, 247 pages,
$12.95 US soft covers) is a carry-along guide to shopping locally,
authored by Amy Cotler, founding director of Berkshire Grown, a
regional food initiative. She's also a cookbook author and a major
contributor to the revised "Joy of Cooking". In broad outlines, the
book tells us how to buy, to cook, and to eat close to home. She has
hints, lists, tips, tricks, and strategies for doing all this. Luckily,
there are not too many US references, just some specifics to expand on
the general. Check out www.amycotler.com.
 

I LOVE MACARONS (Chronicle Books, 2009, 80 pages, $14.95 US soft
covers) is by Hisako Ogita, and it was originally published in Japanese
in 2006. This is its first release in English. Macarons are almond
paste and sugar, baked into a cookie that is crisp and a little chewy,
and then sandwiched with (usually) cream fillings. There are full
instructions on how to make petit macaron pastries, plus combining
various puffs and creams (and decorating them). There is a whole
section on making the batter, another section on making the creams, and
a third section on putting them all together. Oh yes, there is also a
fourth section on using up the surplus egg yolks (that's not a problem,
with crème caramel, Bavarian creams, ice cream, and more). There are
several hundred pix here in this very entertaining book.
 

A non-book entry is the party kit. I have three – there's the CHEESE
TASTING PARTY KIT, subtitled "everything you need to host your own
cheese-tasting party" [except the cheese, of course] from Chronicle
Books, 2009, $16.95 US. There are 50 cheese profile cards for common
cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Tomme, Camembert, Stilton,
Cheddar, Manchego, and the like. The cards describe the milk used, some
background, and wine matches. There are also 50 ID cards with
toothpicks. And a fold-out informational card with a glossary and data
on buying, storing, and pairing. Janet Fletcher wrote this part.
 
For games at parties, you could do no worse than get WINE WARS; a
trivia game for wine geeks and wannabes (Chronicle Books, 2009, $19.95
US). It promises to be challenging to all and entertaining. Although it
is American based (e.g. "which country leads in wine exports to US?"),
it does cover common ground such as growing grapes, making wine, world
production, selecting and storing wine, and wine tasting. There are
also food matches to identify. 150 cards, 750 questions, 6 game boards,
1 die, and regional maps of the wine world. Watch out for the
comparable FOODIE FIGHT; a trivia game for serious food lovers
(Chronicle Books, 2009, $19.95 US). It's similarly setup with Q & A on
cards, but it is also more vicious.
 

Other non-book items include MOLLIE KATZEN'S RECIPES: DESSERTS (Ten
Speed Press, 2009, 120 pages, $16.95 CAD) in an easel edition. This is
a spiral version of a cook book, and it is a collection of 50 dessert
recipes. Preps come from her "Moosewood Cookbook" and "Enchanted
Broccoli Forest", but five of them are new. Another easel book (which
are great, by the way, since they open up rather well on your kitchen
counter) is CINDY PAWLYN'S APPETIZERS (Ten Speed Press, 2009, $17.95
CAD) which only has 40 recipes. Thirty of them come from her "Mustards
Grill Napa Valley Cookbook" and "Big Small Plates" book, but there are
10 newer ones.
 

Yet another non-book is the virtually-blank journal. EAT ME; the
journal (Chronicle Books, 2009, $16.95 US) is meant for the food-
obsessed. It is a book of pages to record your life in food, such as
food pleasures and restaurant dining experiences. There are sidebars
and lists. Specific blank chapters cover foods from our childhood, our
current family foods, top restaurants, top books read on food, dining
disasters, kitchen equipment, and wine and cocktails. Useful for
creating a track record.
 
There is a category of foodbooks called "little cookbooks"; these are
usually placed at POS (point-of-sales) spots. I've located a very good
collection of quick and easy, from Ryland Peters and Small, all
published in 2009. They are 64 or 96 pages each, and sell for $15.95
US, but they are also hard covers, so they look a bit more posh --
especially with the photography and the metric conversion charts. There
are about 50 recipes in each. One is COOKING WITH PUMPKINS AND SQUASH
(50 recipes) which is also timely since these are still locally
available through the winter. Brian Glover is the author; he covers all
courses and desserts. Try zucchini and ricotta fritters, roasted squash
with leek and barley pilaf, chicken and butternut squash tagine, and
spiced pumpkin and apple pie. Another of Glover's books is COOKING WITH
LEMONS & LIMES (29 recipes) which contains mostly classical
Mediterranean dishes (pasta with clams, shrimp and lemons; grilled
zucchini and feta salad; roast lemon chicken) plus Key Lime pie, lemon
curd, and preserved lemons. COOKING WITH APPLES & PEARS (33 recipes) is
by Laura Washburn, and includes both sweets and savouries. There are
more apple than pear recipes, which reflects popularity levels.
Surprisingly, there is only one recipe which includes both apples and
pears: a ginger-apple-pear chutney. But, as in Europe, one can always
substitute pears for almost every apple dish. LOVE YOUR LEFTOVERS (50
recipes) is a guide to feeding your friends and family for next to
nothing. It is quite timely. 18 authors from the Ryland stable
contributed such preps as cauliflower cheese, fruit crumble, banana
bread, and a host of meat dishes. ITALIAN BREADS (28 recipes) is by
Maxine Clark, and includes large loaves, ciabatta rolls, flatbreads,
focaccia, grissini, pizza dough, and sweet breads.
 

There's another collection from BBC Books (2009), all on the theme of
101 recipes from British magazines. They are 216 pages each, and retail
for $12.95 CAD at a very convenient 5 inch by 6 inch size. Each recipe
has a pix of the finished plate, and the style is quick and easy. By
Janine Ratcliff there is OLIVE: 101 BRILLIANT BAKING IDEAS, from Olive
Magazine in the UK, "classic dishes from around the world". OLIVE: 101
STYLISH SUPPERS is hyped as a stay-in supper book for foodies in the
credit crunch. Jane Hornby wrote 101 MORE ONE-POT DISHES from Good Food
Magazine in the UK, as well as 101 SPEEDY SUPPERS. Sarah Cook did 101
CURRIES for the same Good Food Magazine. A good bargain series.
 

Annual calendars are always monster hits and are often appreciated,
both the wall and the desk type. The best of the desk are the three
"page-a-day" (PAD) calendars from Workman. THE WINE LOVER'S CALENDAR
2010 (Workman, 2009, $16.99 CAD) has been put together by Karen
MacNeil, author of "The Wine Bible", with Brooke Cheshier. Saturday and
Sunday have been combined on one page. There is a new varietal
highlighted each month, tips galore for pouring and tasting, food and
wine matching, bargains, pop quizzes, etc. etc. And 100 "must try"
wines are highlighted (many can be found in Canada). 365 BOTTLES OF
BEER FOR THE YEAR 2010 (Workman, 2009, $16.99 CAD) is by Bob Klein,
author of "The Beer Lover's Rating Guide". It too has a combined
Saturday and Sunday page. Most of the beers appear as imports in
Canada, but otherwise there are few Canadian brews included. Lights,
lagers, ales, porters, stouts, and lambrics – they're all here. Other
material in the PAD includes beer festivals, beer facts, label lore and
vocabulary. If you buy any of the PAD calendars, then you can go online
to the website and pick up other stuff, usually free at
www.pageaday.com. For wall calendars, there is GO VEGAN! 2010 Calendar
(Arsenal Pulp Press, 2009, $14.95 CAD) which has full-colours
throughout and is the same size as an LP (remember those?). Susan
Kramer has authored many vegan books for this publisher. She appears
here in many re-creations of advertisements and movie posters, as an
iconic image of the 1940s and 1950s, reworked for modern vegan
audiences. There are facts, dates and trivia here. For example, you can
celebrate World Vegan Day on November 1. The Vegan Society was started
in Great Britain in 1944 (that's the year they ran out of every food
possible).
 

On to the wine annuals. The two leaders are HUGH JOHNSON'S POCKET WINE
BOOK 2010 (Mitchell Beazley, 2009, 320 pages, $19.99 CAD hard bound)
and OZ CLARKE'S POCKET WINE GUIDE 2010 (Sterling Books, 2009, 352
pages, $19.50 CAD hardbound). Both are guides to wines from all around
the world, not just to the "best" wines. Similarities: Johnson claims
more than 6000 wines are listed, while Clarke says more than 7000, but
then recommends 4000 producers. News, vintage charts and data,
glossaries, best value wines, and what to drink now are in both books.
The major differences: Johnson has been at it longer – this is his 33rd
edition -- and has more respect from erudite readers for his exactitude
and scholarliness. His book is arranged by region; Clarke's book is in
dictionary, A – Z form (about 1600 main entries). It is really six of
one, or half a dozen of another which one to use. Johnson's entry for
Canada is 1.2 pages (big deal). Oz has only one paragraph apiece on
Inniskillin, Okanagan (recommending just red wines), and Niagara
(recommending just icewines). Both books have notes on the 2008
vintage, along with a closer look at the 2007. It is fun to look at
both books and find out where they diverge. As a sidelight, Johnson and
Oz are moving into food: there is a 16 page section on food and wine
matching in the former, while Oz has 6 pages. Johnson also has a
listing of his personal 200 fave wines. Both books could profit from
online accessibility or a CD-ROM production.
 
Other wine annuals – mostly paperbacks -- deal with "recommended"
wines, not all of the wines in the world. They can afford the space for
more in-depth tasting notes (TNs) of what they actually do cover
(usually just wines available in their local marketplace).
 
Thus, HAD A GLASS; top 100 wines for 2010 under $20, $25, and $30
(Whitecap, 2009, 168 pages, $19.95 CAD paper covers) is by Kenji
Hodgson and James Nevison, the authors of 2003's "Have a Glass; a
modern guide to wine". They are the British Columbia
www.halfaglass.com. Had a Glass (now in its fifth edition) showcases
top inexpensive wines available primarily in BC, although those labels
with national distribution will also be found in other provinces. They
try to pick wines available to match any occasion, and along the way
they provide tips on food and wine pairing and stemware. The first
fifty pages present all the basics, including food recipes. I am not
sure why it is here since the book is really about the top 100 wines.
Most readers/buyers will head straight for the listings which follow,
one per page, for whites, roses, reds, aperitifs, dessert wines and
sparklers. This year, in view of rising prices, they have enlarged
their scope to cover wines at $25 and $30. Unfortunately, for Ontario,
this is just at the very time that the LCBO is concentrating on the $15
to $19.95 spread, with few wines above $20. There are indexes by
countries, by wine, and by food. Tasting notes are pretty bare bones,
but each wine does have a label, a price, and some food matches.
 

THE WINE TRIALS 2010 (Fearless Critic, 2009; distr. T.Allen, 225 pages,
$14.95 US soft covers) is by Robin Goldstein, with
Alexis Nerschkowitsch. Both have food and wine credentials, in addition
to authoring restaurant review books and travel books. They have been
assisted by 13 named contributing writers and 500 named blind tasters.
The object of the book is to come up with hidden wine values. The cover
proclaims brown-bag blind tastings for wine values under $15. That's
$15 US, of course, and does not allow for discounts and sales so
prevalent in the US marketplace. For example, top rated Segura Viudas
Brut Reserva is $8 US national retail. It can be cheaper. In Ontario,
it is $14.65, a firm price. So it is possible that a top rated US wine
at $20, going on sale for under $15, could be well over $30 in Ontario.
Most of the wines sold in Ontario are under $25 – the trick is to find
the best ones. This book should give some guidance. They list 150 wines
under $15 US that outscored $50 to $150 bottles, using hundreds of
blind tasters who filled in a simple form. The authors have lots of
material justifying their choices, and there are copious notes for each
of the 150 wines. Only about half the wines are available in Ontario,
and many are not value priced because of the exchange rate,
the LCBO mark-up policy and lack of sales/discounts.
 

THE 500 BEST-VALUE WINES IN THE LCBO 2010 (Whitecap, 2009, 248 pages,
$19.95 CAD paper back) takes a more determined run at the wines at the
LCBO. This third edition, by Rod Phillips, has wines arranged by wine
colour and then by region/country with price and CSPC number. Each
value wine gets a rating (the basic is three stars out of five), with
an indication of food pairings. A good guidebook, but I'm afraid most
people will just look through it for the 5 star selections and leave it
at that. Turnover in Ontario must be enormous because this update
claims over 200 new wines for a book that deals with just 500. Coverage
is limited to LCBO General Purchase wines and LCBO Vintages Essentials,
the wines that are available (if only by special order) in every LCBO
store.
 

BILLY'S BEST BOTTLES; wines for 2010 (McArthur & Company, 2010, 240
pages, $19.95 CAD soft covers) by Billy Munnelly is back for another
round (20th ed), creating more emphasis on wine and food pairing, party
planning, and some social manners. There's some info about country
trends and frequently-asked questions about wine. Plus data on Ontario
winery tours. His whole concept of wine is organized by Mood, with
sections on wine colour and style/weight, and the wines are usually
those available at the LCBO. Most should be available across the
country. He has over 200 best international wine buys, with most under
$20 and many under $12. And there is a wine index at the back where
wines are listed by region. Check out www.billysbestbottles.com.
 
 
 

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Nov 21/09 - WWCC Tasting - Ports

 The Time and Date: Friday, November 20, 2009
The Event: Wine Writers Circle of Canada Port Tasting
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square
The Target Audience: wine writer members of WWCC
The Wines:  about 30 ports were tasted.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Taylor Fladgate  10 Year Old Tawny Port  20%  Vintages Essentials 
#121749  $34.95
-Taylor Fladgate  20 Year Old Tawny  Vintages Essentials  #149047 
$67.95
-Graham's 20 Year Old Tawny Port  20% alc  CSPC 620641  500ml  $36.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Warre's Otima  10 year Old Tawny Port  20% alc  #566174  500ml  $22.95
-Taylor's LBV  2003  20% alc   #46946  $17.95  December sale $16.95
-Ferreira  Dona Antonia Reserva NV  20% alc  #157586  $18.70
-Graham's LBV 2003  20%  #191239  $17.45
-Graham's 10 year Old Tawny Port  20% alc  CSPC 206508  $27.95
-Quinta de Ventozelo 10 Year Old Tawny Port  19.5% alc Vintages 0141044
$27.95
-Sandeman VAU Vintage  2000  20% alc Vintages #973768  $29.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Six Grapes Reserve   NV  20% alc  Vintages 208405  $22.95
-Taylor's First Estate  NV   20% alc    #309401  $15.95
-Royal Oporto 10 Year Old, +661223 Vintages, $12.95 for 200 mL
-Qunita de Ventozelo Porto Reserva  NV    20% alc #0141028  $17.95
 
The Contact Person:  sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88
 
 
 
 

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Nov 19/09 - Trade Event - Gourmet Food & Wine Expo

The Time and Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5PM to 10PM
The Event: the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, VIP night
The Venue: Metro Toronto Convention Centre
The Target Audience: wine press, wine trade, private insiders.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, especially with an
onsite LCBO store which carried most of the offerings.
The Quote/Background: I use the show to catch up with New York wines,
and some select suppliers who do not have a portfolio tasting, and the
theme country (this year, Portugal). I find that I can just barely get
though the evening…there are so many wines, and so little time.
The Quote/Background:
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ch. Wantz Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kirchberg 1999 Alsace, $49.65 
Nokhrin
-Ch. Wantz Gewurztraminer 2005 Alsace, $38.15 Nokhrin
-Guicciardini Strozzi Bolgheri Superiore 2004 Tuscany, $49 Le Sommelier
-Deltetto Spumante de Qualidad Extra Brut Rose NV Piedmont, $49 Le
Sommelier
-Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo Vigna Croera 2004 Piedmont, $250 Le
Sommelier
-Ulithorne Frux Frugis Shiraz 2004 McLaren Vale, $60 Le Sommelier
-Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve 2007 Niagara, $24.95  Churchill
-Peninsula Ridge Cabernet 2004 Niagara, (50/50 cabernet sauvignon and
franc) $12.75 +598748 – a BEST BUY steal
-Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007 A. J. Lepp Vineyard, $18.95
Vintages +78543
-Five Stones Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2008 Margaret River, +108001,
$18.95 Vintages
-Finca Allende Red 2005 Spain, +954560, $34.95 Vintages
-Domaine Courbis Cornas Les Eygats 2004, +719385, $64.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ch. Wantz Muscat M Collection Personelle 2007 Alsace, $29.90 Nokhrin
-Tapena Garnacha 2007 Spain, +72553 LCBO $13.75
-Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2008, +175430 LCBO $16.25
-Wente Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, +301507, $16.75
-Casa de Santa Vitoria Tinto 2005 Portugal, $15
-J.P. Vinhos Tinto da Anfora Portugal $13
-Quinta Da Giesta Dao 2005 Portugal, $15.95
-Esporao Reserva Red 2007 Portugal
-Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2003 Tuscany, $75 Le Sommelier
-Fita Preta 2005 Portugal, $55 Le Sommelier
-Hermanos Pecina Reserva 2001 Rioja, $54 Le Sommelier
-Roagna Barbaresco Paje Riserva 1998 Piedmont, $115 Le Sommelier
-Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Niagara, +53678 LCBO, $14.75
-Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Franc Beal Vineyard 2007 Niagara, $15.95 
Churchill
-Alvento Winery VIO Viognier 2007 Niagara Bench, $25.95 Winery
-Chateau Calissanne Clos Victoire 2004 Aix-en-Provence, +982207, $39
Vintages
-Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes, $29.95, +90332
Vintages
-Heron Hill Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes, $21.99  Tannin Fine Wines
-Lamoreaux Landing Chardonnay 2007 Finger Lakes, $23.40 MCO
-Bedell Cellars First Crush White 2008 Long Island, $25.70 Edward's
Wines
-Raphael Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Long Island, $25.70 John Hanna & Sons
-Osprey's Dominion Vineyards Meritage 2005 Long Island, $53.40, Robert
Ketchin
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ch. Wantz Riesling Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2001, $40.55 Nokhrin
-Alamos Seleccion Malbec 2007 Argentina, +198670, $18.95
-Alamos Pinot Noir 2008 Argentina, $17.95
-Cortes de Cima Chamine 2006 Portugal, $16.95
-Quinta do Crasto Douro Red 2007 Portugal
-Fox Run Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 Finger Lakes, $14.75 Lorac Wine
-Donatella Cinelli Colombini Il Drago e Le Sette Colombe 2004 Tuscany,
$34 Le Sommelier
-Brotherhood Pinto Noir 2006 Hudson River, +79939 Vintages, $18.25
-Raphael Merlot 2001 Long Island, +82388, $29.95 Vintages
-Piero Busso Barbaresco San Stefanetto 2004 Piedmont, $79 Le Sommelier
-Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes, $20.25, +70631
Vintages
-Altano Douro 2007 Portugal, +579862 Vintages $11.75
-Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2007 Niagara, $14.75 +61101 LCBO
-Martin Codax Salterio Albarino Rias Baixas 2008, +2774, $16.95
Vintages
-Domaine Bonnard Sancerre White 2008, +140525, $22.95 Vintages
-Laurent Mabileau St. Nicolas de Bourgueil 2007 Loire, +61192, $15.95
Vintages
-Martin Codax Cuatro Pasos Mencia Bierzo Spain, +39313, $16.95 Vintages
-Five Stones Shiraz 2008 Margaret River, +111120, $22.95 Vintages
 
The Food: mostly Saputo cheeses, breads and crackers, plus shrimp from
Acqua Star at Churchill Cellars which had a private showing of their
wines. Most of the food vendors are too busy selling their products.
The Downside: it got crowded quickly, people know what to do now.
The Upside: a good event to catch up with country wines such as New
York State.
The Contact Person: kdobrucki@townmedia.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88
 
 

Friday, December 18, 2009

Nov 19/09 - Trade Tasting - Daniel Vollenweider

The Time and Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009  Noon to 3 PM
The Event: a tasting with Daniel Vollenweider of Traben-Trarbach
(Mosel), specializing in Riesling (Kabinett to TBA)
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve.
The Target Audience: clients of John Hanna & Sons
The Availability/Catalogue:
The Quote/Background: all the wines came from a single vineyard, Wolfer
Goldrube, from ungrafted Riesling vines.
The Wines: A great range of wines, a dozen in all, at all sweetness
levels, from a single Mosel vineyard, and reflecting a purity of style
with consistent minerality tones. Very decent prices for the drier
wines.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese 2002 Wolfer Goldrube  sold out
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Auslese 2005 Wolfer Goldrube  $53.95
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Auslese Long Gold Kapsule 2007 Wolfer
Goldrube  $111.25 for 375mL
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2006 Wolfer Goldrube 
$364 for 375mL
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling 2008 Wolfer Goldrube  $24.05
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Kabinett Dry 2008 Wolfer Goldrube  $27.60
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese 2004 Wolfer Goldrube  sold out
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese Gold Kapsule 2008 Wolfer
Goldrube  $49.95
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Beerenauslese 2007 Wolfer Goldrube 
$219.70
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Kabinett 2008 Wolfer Goldrube  $27.60
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese 2004 Wolfer Goldrube  $36.80
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese 2004 Wolfer Goldrube  $36.80
 
The Contact Person: info@winetrader.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.
 
 

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Nov 17/09 - Trade Tasting - La Chablisienne at Biff's

The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 17, 2009  Noon to 2:30 PM
The Event: a luncheon to taste La Chablisienne wines in the Ontario
marketplace.
The Venue: Biff's Bistro
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: we sampled four wines from listings at the
LCBO. We also had a reception wine, Cremant de Bourgogne Reserve NV
from Bailly-Lapierre ($19.95 Vintages), a partner of La Chablisienne.
The Quote/Background: La Chablisienne is represented by Vinexx;
Christoph Cardona, the Export Manager for the Americas, was on hand to
lead the tasting and to answer any questions. The co-op has 300
grapegrowers who supply must to the team of winemakers. The co-op has
about 25% of all Chablis vineyards. They make a range of 30 different
special wines (including classed crus of 13 Premiers and 6 Grands)
right down to basic Chablis and Petit Chablis. At the top is Chateau
Grenouilles, made with 35 year old vines from a single estate in
Grenouilles. Next May 2010 the Classics catalogue will feature more
Chablis from this producer.
The Wines: it was very good to taste a range of Chablis against food.
Chablis is the classic food wine, with its crisp tartness.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Chablisienne Chateau Grenouilles Chablis Grand Cru 2005, $89 +82974
Classics Catalogue
-La Chablisienne Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot 2005, $65 +581686 Classics
Catalogue
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bailly-Lapierre Cremant de Bourgogne Reserve NV, $19.95
-La Chablisienne Chablis Les Venerables Vielles Vignes 2006, $24.95
Vintages Essentials +942243 – made from 35 year old vines. Half of the
production is allocated to the LCBO.
 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Chablisienne Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorents 2006, $31.80 +111666
Vintages
 
The Food: we began with appetizers, with the Cremant: cured salmon
wraps, quiche, chicken with mustard sauce, chevre on toasts. Most of us
then had the smoked salmon, although some had the beet soup. We all
chose the seared arctic char with remoulade, green beans, and a toasted
almond vinaigrette. The cheese platter had a triple crème, a blue, and
a firm cheese (all unidentified, but then, nobody asked the service). A
classic vanilla bean creme brulee came for dessert, with espresso and
Vieux Marc du Chateau Grenouilles (400 bottles a year, not for sale,
but valued at $250 a bottle).
The Downside: we were originally to have Damien Leclerc, Directeur
Generale of La Chablisienne, but he had to cancel his whole North
American tour at the last moment.
The Upside: quality wine with quality food.
The Contact Person: sdrotos@vinexx.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.
 
 
 
 

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Nov 12/09 - Trade Tasting - Champagne Fleury

The Time and Date: Thursday, November 12, 2009  2 Pm to 5 PM
The Event: A tasting of Champagne Fleury, the only biodynamic winery in
the Champagne district.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina
The Target Audience: clients and wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available now, in six packs
The Quote/Background: Fleury, founded in 1895, is in the Cotes des Bar,
south end of Champagne. Jean-Pierre Fleury began biodynamic techniques
in 1989, beginni9ng with just 3 hectares. By 1992, all 15 hectares were
in process of being biodynamic. Before that time, Fleury had been
"sustainable" with manual tilling and composting. His daughter Morgane
was in town to promote the wines via a dinner at The Black Hoof. 90% of
their estate grapes is Pinot Noir. Annuals sales: 200,000 bottles
(stock on hand is 1 million). 60% of the wine is exported.
The Wines: Five wines were sampled --
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fleury Millesime 1995, $89.95 – bargain priced for this quality
-Robert Fleury 2000 (1/3 pinot blanc, pinot noir, chardonnay), $79.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fleury Carte Rouge Brut NV, $56.95 (ten years old)
-Fleury Fleur de L'Europe Brut NV, $56.95 (eight years old)
-Rose de Saignee Brut NV, $67.95
 
The Food: quality cheeses and pate, breads.
The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.
 

 
 
 
 

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Nov 11/09: Trade Tasing - Kosher Wines

The Time and Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009  7:30 PM to 10 PM
The Event: Kosher wine tasting from the portfolio of Mazel wines.
The Venue: Baycrest Centre
The Target Audience: wine writers and clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available for purchase, some
by private order.
The Quote/Background: the wines and food matches were presented by Irv
Wolkoff and Sheila Swerling-Puritt, both Toronto-based wine and food
writers. Rabbi Tzvi Heber from Kashruth Council of Canada explained
kosher and mevushal wines. Flash pasteurization to 185 degrees
Fahrenheit is used. Some principals in attendance included Julius
Hafner (Hafner Winery) and Amotz Teperberg (Teperberg Winery).
The Wines:  we tasted some wines BEFORE and AFTER a sitdown tasting, so
I'll put them all together. Sheila had arranged for some complementary
food to go with each of the sitdown wines. There was a short intro on
why North American wines were made only from Concord grapes.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cantina Gabriele Moscato Italy, 6% ABV, $16.15
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hafner Pinot Noir Reserve Austria, 13% ABV, $26.40
-Cantina G. Montepulciano Italy, $16.95
-Cantina Gabriele Chianti Tuscany 2007, $18.35
-Efrat Israeli Merlot 2007, 13%, $16.05
-Cantina Gabriele Pinot Grigio 2007 Italy, 12%, $18.35
-Teperberg Silver Late Harvest White Riesling Israel, $20.65 half-
bottle
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hafner Zweigelt Austria, $13.95
-Collage Chardonnay Semillion Israel, $14.25
-Efrat Israeli Chardonnay, 13%, $17
-Hafner Late Harvest Muscat Ottonel Austria, $16.45
 
The Food: with a Hafner Gruner Veltliner, we had beets. Tuna
accompanied Efrat Israeli Chardonnay. The Cantina Gabriele Chianti came
with bruschetta. A salmon accompanied Hafner Pinot Noir Reserve. Before
and after the sitdown, we had a mélange of appetizers, mainly chips and
dips (tortilla chips, pita breads, crackers, toasts, couscous,
tapenade, salsa, baba ghanoush, and hummus). Fresh fruit and cookies
plus coffee were served at the end.
The Downside: we unofficially milled about for over a half hour, and I
was not sure if the tasting session was supposed to be open. Certainly,
it was not announced, and I expected to be tasting these wines after
the main event.
The Upside: there was a marvelous exhibit of rare old wines dating back
to the late 1920s. These were accompanied by notes assembled as
handouts to take home.
The Contact Person: badler@mazelwines.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.
 
 
 
 

Monday, December 14, 2009

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH

 NIAGARA'S WINE VISIONARIES; profiles of the pioneering winemakers
(Lorimer, 2009, 224 pages, ISBN 978—1-55277-429-8, $29.95 Canadian hard
covers) is by Linda Bramble, an Ontario wine writer who is also a
certified sommelier. She's taught in the wine program at Brock
University, contributed to the Oxford Companion to Wine, and has
written four previous books about Niagara and its wines. Here she tells
the story of the emerging Ontario wine economy in terms of its far-
sighted winery pioneers. After the opening chapter on what Niagara wine
is all about, she begins with pioneer Harry Hatch (Brights), moving on
to Don Ziraldo (Inniskillin) who picked up Ontario's first winery
license in decades (1974), Len Pennachetti (Cave Spring Cellars), Paul
Bosc (Chateau des Charmes), Paul Speck (Henry of Pelham) and more.
Actually, each biographical chapter provides a framework for the
advancement of wine knowledge and history in Ontario. At the back,
there are acknowledgments for source materials, and you can dig out a
respectable bibliography by reading these pages.
Audience and level of use: Ontario wine lovers, wine schools,
libraries.
Some interesting or unusual facts: some names are not mentioned, but I
can read between the lines and I have some insider knowledge.
The downside to this book: there are only two references to "Cellared
in Canada" wine, and I wish that there had been more explication since
CIC wines represent about half of the grape crop in Ontario.
The upside to this book: a great review of the political process and
the ins and outs of wine democracy, and how and why it failed and how
and why it succeeded.
Quality/Price Rating: 91 – a must read.
 
 

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Dec 8, 2009: TOUR of Vintage One (V1) Wines

The Time and Date: Wednesday, December 8, 2009  2PM to 4PM
The Event: Tour of Vintage One (V1) Wines
The Venue: on site cellar winery, 4896 Dundas St. West, in Etobicoke
416-231-6994
The Target Audience: wine media, on a limited basis.
The Availability/Catalogue: This is a big U-Vint: a 10,000 square foot
winery in the inner suburbs. There are 80 stainless steel fermenting
tanks from Italy. These range in size from 100 to 300 to 500 litres. 
There is an impressive grape-crushing area (maceration occurs five
times a day). Through a glass wall with glass doors there are over 50
oak aging barrels from France, Hungary, and the US. There are five
levels of wine quality available. It might be best to visit the website
to check out what each is and the various price levels. But the first
level is "Blends", running about $90 and up for 20 Litres (two cases of
wine plus 2 bottles). Blends come from different countries, sort of
like a Cellared in Canada wine without the stretch water component. The
next level, "Cortes", is country specific, with Merlot and Chardonnay
from Chile, and Muscat Ottonel from Argentina. There is also a Norman-
style sparkling apple cider, about $108 for 9 litres (one case), with
Ontario fruit. The "Estates" and "Select" levels move into the valleys
of Argentina, Chile, and Italy, ranging from $260 to $470 per 20
litres. There is also a pre-order "Domain" level, with local estates'
best production being determined each harvest. This is by the barrel
only, usually 108 litre barrels (133 bottles) made of French, Hungarian
or American oak. Or in 225 litre barrels (300 bottles). The variable
prices here start at $2800 per barrel.
The Quote/Background: Vintage One Wines, as a U-Vint, offers a wide
selection of grape varieties, including some from Ontario and
California. Customers can be as involved as they want to be with the
winemaking team during the entire process. There is a money back
guarantee included when the wine is bottled on the premises.
The Wines: Alejandra De Miguel is the Founder (her brother Jeronimo is
in charge of Business Development). She's the latest generation of a
family of Argentine winemakers, and she greeted us in her fashionable
winemaker suspenders. As she says, "There is no better way to learn
about wine than by being a part of the creative journey." She's worked
with her winemaker father, Alejandro, in Argentina, and has apprenticed
in Spain, Chile, and Argentina. She will soon complete a degree in
viticulture and oenology from UC Davis – at the age of 27. She's been
eight years in the winemaking end, and even managed to get to McGill
University. Her father acts as primary winemaking consultant to V1,
which uses frozen grapes and refrigerated juice (no concentrates). The
juices are mainly for white wines, while the whole grapes add
complexity to the red wines. Imports are totally based on demand. The
whole winemaking process should be six to eight weeks, with the whites
being faster. Anything in barrels is for three months and more, with
additional storage fees. Of interest is the fact that Nero d'Avola
grapes and juice is brought in from Sicily. Currently, V1 is also
making wines for the restaurant located above it, and it could be
branching out as a winemaker/consultant for other startup micro-
wineries in Ontario.
We couldn't taste any wines since the operation is not allowed to have
bottles on premises, and the wines in the tanks were not their
property.
The Food: I had an espresso.
The Downside: no sampling, which was a disappointment since I wanted to
taste for quality.
The Upside: the winery is open Tuesday through Saturday, and by
appointment.
The Contact Person: info@vintageonewines.com  www.vintageonewines.com
 
 
 

December 2/09 TRADE TASTING: Mailly Champagne, Boillot, LeMoine, Hendry

 The Time and Date: Wednesday, December 2, 2009  3 PM to 4:40 PM
The Event: trade tasting of Mailly Champagne, Hendry (Napa), Henri
Boillot and Lucien LeMoine wines, represented by Artisanal Wine
Imports.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina
The Target Audience: wine trade.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available but quantities
were limited.
The Quote/Background: Mailly, now being introduced into Canada, is one
of 17 grand cru villages, producing 500,000 bottles a year.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mailly Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rose NV, $74.95 90PN/10Ch
-Mailly Champagne Grand Cru L'Air Millesime Brut 2005, $104.95
60PN/40Ch
-Mailly Champagne Grand Cru Les Echansons Millesime Brut 1999, $117.95
75PN/25Ch
-H. Boillot Savigny Les Beaune Blanc 2004 Vergelesse, $65.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mailly Champagne Grand Cru Brut Reserve NV, $58.95 75PN/25Ch
-Mailly Champagne Grand Cru L'Air Millesime Brut 2005, $89.95 75PN/25Ch
-H. Boillot Volnay Les Chevrets 2004, $79.95
-Lucien LeMoine Bourgogne Blanc 2005, $49.95 – oaked
-Lucien LeMoine Gevrey Chambertin Lavaut St Jacques 2006, $125
-Lucien LeMoine Clos de Vougeot 2006, $275
-Hendry Pinot Noir 2006 Napa, $49.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hendry Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa, $78.95
 
The Food: none at the trade tasting.
The Contact Person: bob@artisanalwineimports.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86.