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Saturday, January 9, 2010

Dec 7/09: APVSA Tasting, French wines.

The Time and Date: Monday, December 7, 2009  10AM to 4PM
The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et
spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep
the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there were sales staff available to
comment on the prices and production.
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we
already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price
advantages, either. These 60 or so wines could be made available
through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, many have been picked up
for sale in Ontario. Here were my faves, regardless of
price:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tissier & Fils Le Petit Morice Sancerre Blanc 2008, 5.60E
-Chateau Vari 2007 Bergerac Rouge, 3.30E
-Chateau Vari Reserve du Chateau 2005 Monbazillac, 5.60E 375mL
-Ellul-Ferrieres Rouge Grande Cuvee Coteaux du Languedoc 2007, 8E
-Ellul-Ferrieres Rouge Dolce Vitae Coteaux du Languedoc 2007, 5E
-Dom. Du Mas Rous Cotes du Roussillon Rouge Cuvee 2006, 4.58E
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Earl Maison Pere & Fils Cheverny Rouge 2008, 3.50E
-Earl Maison Pere & Fils Cheverny Blanc Revelation 2008, 3.90E
-Chateau La Croix St. Anne 2005 Bord Sup, 2.90E
-Chateau Vari 2005 Monbazillac, 3.20E 375mL
-Chateau Belot L'Argiliere 2006 Rouge Saint-Chinian, 5.60E
-Domaine Belot Viognier 2008 Pays d'Oc, 3E
-Dom. Du Mas Rous Muscat de Rivesaltes 2008 Vin Doux Naturel, 4.79E
-Dom. Pio Notre Dame Minervois Rouge 2007 Fut en Chene, 10E
-Dom. Pio Notre Dame Minervois Rose 2008, 4E
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Vray Canon Boyer 2002 Canon Fronsac, 4.50
-Chateau Au Grand Paris 2007 Bordeaux Sup, 2.80E
-Chateau Belot Le Vignalet 2007 Rouge Saint-Chinian, 2.50E
-Dom. Du Mas Rous Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Pays d'Oc, 4.58
-Dom. De Mas Rous Cotes du Roussillon Tradition 2008 Rouge, 3.58E
-Dom. Pio Notre Dame Minervois Rouge 2007, 4.50E
 
The Food: none.
The Downside: selection is eclectic and bottles arrive haphazardly.
Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told this until we
got there.
The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.
There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.
 
 

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Jan 9, 2010 LCBO Vintages Release Notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 9, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is guide to thousands
of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and
spirits, at www.deantudor.com (since 1995). Creator of Canada's leading wine
satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My tastings are based on MVC
(Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio).
Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The
LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers
or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Stoney Ridge Dim Vineyard Riesling 2008 VQA Creek Shores: fleshy and
flashy, good acid, but does not taste Medium Dry as Vintages indicates.
+161208, $14, QPR: 90
2. Stonehedge Chardonnay 2007 California: good MVC value for the
dollar, 13.9% ABV. +544841, $12.95, QPR: 91.
3. Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier 2009 Rapel: dry peach tones,
excellent price. +45138, $12.95, QPR: 90.
4. Tabali Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Limari: herbs and minerals,
13.5% ABV. +662999, $12.95, QPR: 90.
5. Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2008 WO Western Cape: very
extenuated MVC at this price level, herby plus. +662718, $11.95, QPR:
91.
6. Bestheim Reserve Vieilles Vignes Riesling 2008 Alsace: intense MVC
from Riesling, medium body. +141176, $14.95, QPR: 90.
7. Chateau Coulange Blanc 2008 Bordeaux Sec: tart and grassy, food
needed, very good value, 100% sauvignon blanc. +138750, $13.95, QPR:
90.
8. Roux Pere & Fils Les Murelles Chardonnay Bourgogne 2008: only
lightly oaked, useful value at this price level. +156455, $13.95, QPR:
90.
9. Domaine de la Seigneurie des Tourelles Saumur Blanc 2008: baked
fruit and some candied tones, but dry, good as aperitif. +141879,
$12.95, QPR: 90.
10. Michel Gassier Les Piliers Viognier 2008 Pays D'Oc: delicious cream
and fruit, apricot and oranges. +669531, $16.95, QPR: 90.
 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Loredona Pinot Noir 2006 Monterey: dynamite wine, good pinot noir
tones, but Californian and priced well. +57620, $18.95, QPR: 90.
2. Paso Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Paso Robles: label says "bold
character derived from stubborn patience". 13.5% ABV. +161141, $19.95,
QPR: 90.
3. Concha y Toro Trivento Reserve Syrah 2008 Mendoza: definitely
Rhonish, value. Sip or with food. +663112, $12.95, QPR: 90.
4. Montgras Quatro 2007 Colchagua: excellent Bordeaux-blend plus syrah
with engaging black fruit component. +50641, $15.95, QPR: 90.
5. Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Petit Verdot 2007 Rapel: good tones
of saddles and chocolate. +7484, $14.95, QPR: 90
5. Vina Maipo Reserva Carmenere 2008 Rapel: weedy and best with food.
+7663047, $12.95, QPR: 90.
6. Alkoomi Shiraz 2007 Frankland River: definite Euro-style wine.
+138560, $14.95, QPR: 90.
7. Lindemans Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Coonawarra: twist top,
good MVC, value at this price. +141994, $14.95, QPR: 90.
8. Chateau Arnaud Jouan Cuvee Prestige 2005 Premieres Cotes de
Bordeaux: delicious, good wood aging, mid-Atlantic tastes. +138859,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
9. Chateau Belle-Garde 2007 Bordeaux: typical Bordeaux MVC, value at
this price level. +142372, $13.95, QPR: 90.
10. Albert Bichot Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2007: you cannot
beat this value for its Burgundian MVC. +43331, $16.95, QPR: 90.
11. Domaine Combebelle Saint-Chinian 2007 Midi: very Rhonish, priced
well. +149658, $11.95, QPR: 90
12. Rouges des Karantes 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc: very ripe, warm and
inviting, mid-Atlantic style G-S-M. +143651, $16.95, QPR: 90.
13. Cave de Tain Queen of Syrah Cool Climate Syrah 2007 Vin de Pays des
Collines Rhodaniennes: a rarity here, from the North Rhone, only 12%
ABV, meant for syrah lovers. +155283, $11.95, QPR: 90.
14. Chateau Armandiere La Fee Violine Malbec Cahors 2005: very
pleasant, earthy, ready soon. Fleshy and tang on the finish. +147967,
$12.95, QPR: 90.
15. Rui Jose Xavier Soares Mimo 2005 Douro: 30 year old vines, some
depth and character, best with food. +147918, $17.95, QPR: 90.
16. Quinta do Roncao Reserva 2006 Douro: good North American style,
full body, tastes off-dry. +147942, $13.95, QPR: 90.
17. Juan Gil Gos Monastrell 2008 Jumilla: juicy North American style,
enjoyable. +94888, $12.95, QPR: 90.
 

Monday, January 4, 2010

Nov 30/09 - Consumer Tasting - Taste and Order Event, Ontario Wine Society

 The Time and Date: Monday, November 30, 2009  6PM to 9PM
The Event: Taste and Order Event of the Ontario Wine Society
The Venue: University of Toronto Faculty Club.
The Target Audience: members and guests of OWS, wine writers, some
trade.
The Availability/Catalogue: every wine was available either through
winerytohome.com or through the winery itself, with special discounts
on the delivery fee from winerytohome.com
The Quote/Background: there were some 40 plus wineries here, with about
6 wines each. Many wineries passed out tech notes and price lists
embracing many of their other wines that were not shown tonight.
The Wines: I tasted what I could, but I'm only human. I tried to taste
wines that I have not had for awhile, and not taste wines I had sampled
within the past three months. Also, I did not sample any icewine or
other sweet wines.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-13th Street Premier Cuvee 2004 Sparkling, $28 [65PN/35C]
-Caroline Cellars Gewurztraminer 2007, $14.20
-Creekside Reserve Chardonnay 2007, $19.95
-Creekside Reserve Meritage 2005, $34.95
-Flat Rock The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2006, $25.15
-Flat Rock Seriously Twisted 2007, $23.15
-Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007, $19.95
-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2007, $35.20
-Hidden Bench Nuit Blanche 2007, $40.20  [white Meritage]
-Hidden Bench Terroir Cache 2006, $35.20 [red Meritage]
-Hillebrand Trius Brut Rose NV, $30.10
-Hillebrand Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2007, $35.20
-Hillebrand Trius Grand Red 2007, $52.20
-Huff Southbay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007, $29.95
-Konzelmann Gewurztraminer 2007, $17.20
-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay, $25
-Mountain Road Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006, $15.95
-Niagara College Dean's List Chardonnay 2007, $28.15
-Nyarai Chardonnay 2007, $16.20
-Peller Ice Cuvee Rose NV, $35.20
-Peninsula Ridge Reserve Chardonnay 2007, $24.95
-Rosewood Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $16.20
-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 2006, $21.95
-Stoney Ridge Warren Classic Chardonnay 2007, $20
-Tawse Van Bers Cabernet Franc 2007, $48
-Willow Springs Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007, $16
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-13th Street Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $28
-Alvento Vio 2007, $25.95
-Angels Gate Sussreserve Riesling 2008, $13.95 – value priced
-Angels Gate Chardonnay 2007, $13.75
-Calamus Gewurztraminer 2008, $15.20
-Cave Spring Pinot Noir Estate 2007, $39.95
-Chateau des Charmes Merlot St. David's Bench 2007, $29.95
-Coyotes Run Black Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, $22.30
-Coyotes Run Rare Vintage Cab/Merlot/Syrah 2007, $42.20
-Coyotes Run Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, $50.20
-Flat Rock Reserve Pinot Noir 2007, $45.20
-Flat Rock Gewurztraminer 2008, $19.15
-Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Brut NV, $29.95
-Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $35.20
-Konzelmann Old Cellar Door Brut MC NV, $30.20
-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2006, $25
-Niagara College Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007, $19.15
-Andrew Peller Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $35.20
-Riverview Salvatore's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $39.95
-Riverview Angelina's Reserve Chardonnay 2007, $24.95
-Southbrook Poetica Cabernet Merlot 2007, $60
-Stoney Ridge Petit Verdot 2008, $28
-Stoney Ridge Charlotte's Chardonnay 2008, $15
-Stratus White 2006, $44.20
-Stratus Red 2006, $44.20
-Strewn Three 2006, $26.20
-Strewn Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006, $20.15
-Tawse Robyn's Block Chardonnay 2007, $42
-The Grange Brut, $29.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-13th Street Riesling Funk Vineyard 2008, $24
-Cave Spring Chenin Blanc 2007, $18.95
-Nyarai Cabernet Merlot 20-07, $18.20
-Nyarai Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $18.20
-Pillitteri Chardonnay Sur Lie 2006, $15.20
-Rosewood Gewurztraminer 2007, $18.20
-Rosewood Barrel Aged Chardonnay 2006, $18.20
-Sprucewood Shores Chardonnay 2008, $12.15
-Wayne Gretzky Founder's Chardonnay 2008, $13.95
 
The Food: platters of fried spring rolls, purses, spanakopita, and the
like, more starch than filling.
The Downside: very uninteresting platters of fried food. Some platters
of cheese might have been enough.
The Upside: taste and try before you buy – great idea for Ontario.
The Contact Person: sadarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.
 

 
 
 

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Nov 27/09 - Trade Tasting - Liquid Art Fine Wines mini-portfolio

 The Time and Date:  Friday, November 27, 2009   2:30PM – 4:30 PM
The Event: Tasting a selection of wines from Liquid Art Fine Wines'
portfolio.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve.
The Target Audience: wine media, private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are in stock (or will be)
The Quote/Background: Liquid Art has a portfolio of some 200 producers,
all family-owned, small production wineries emphasizing terroir. Check
out www.liquidart.ca
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Pommery Cuvee Louise 1998, $195.
-Sadie Family Winery Palladius 2007 South Africa, $79 [chenin, Grenache
blanc, clairette, viognier, chardonnay blend]
-Domaine Vincent Paris St. Joseph 2007, $39.95
-Argiano Solengo IGT Tuscany 2006, $95 [2005 was tasted]
-Neal Family Vineyards "2nd Chance" Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
2005 Atlas Peak Napa Valley, $125 – private order only
-Grant Burge Meshach 2004 Australia, $120  [2002 was available]
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Tradition Extra Brut Champagne, $76
-Tenuta dei Sette Cieli Indaco IGT Tuscany 2006, $65
-Russo Barbicone IGT Tuscany 2006, $49.95
-Duemani Suisassi 2005 Ribarbella, $175
-Neal Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa Valley, $54
-Mendel Unus 2007 Mendoza, $53.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine Boudin Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume 2008, $41.95
-Pyramid Valley Riesling Lebecca Vineyard 2006 New Zealand, $33.95
 
The Food: pate, terrine, cracker crisps, soft cheeses, breads.
The Contact Person: hodson.ben@gmail.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.
 
 

Monday, December 28, 2009

Nov 25/09 - Trade Tasting - Alvaro Palacios

The Time and Date:  Wednesday, November 25, 2009  1 PM to 3:30 PM
The Event: a standup tasting of 9 wines with Spain's Alvaro Palacios,
with agent Woodman Wines & Spirits.
The Venue: Spoke Club, King Street
The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers, private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: mostly upcoming Vintages, but also some
private orders.
The Quote/Background: After training in Bordeaux under Jean-Pierre
Moueix at Chateau Petrus, Alvaro Palacios returned to Spain where he
helped to found "The New Spain". His wines have won him cult status
(especially L'Ermita) and he has been named "Winemaker of the Year" by
at least one wine publication. Wines today come from all three of his
properties in Priorat, Rioja, and Bierzo.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
--Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2006 Moncerbal (single vineyard),
$107 +154443 Classics February 2010
--Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2006 Las Lamas (single vineyard),
$107 +154427 Classics February 2010
-Alvaro Palacios Priorat 2007 Finca Dofi, $92 Private/Consignment
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bodegas Palacios Remondo Rioja 2006 La Montesa, $20 +674572 Vintages
-Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2007 Petalos, $24 +675207 Vintages
-Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo 2006 Villa de Corullon, $56
+154435 Classics February 2010
-Alvaro Palacios Priorat 2007 Les Terrasses, $43 Private/Consignment
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bodegas Palacios Remondo Rioja 2008 La Vendimia, $16 +674564 Vintages
-Alvaro Palacios Priorat 2007 Camins del Priorat, $26
Private/Consignment
 
The Food: mushroom tartlets, red pepper crostini, cheeses, dried fruit,
crackers.
The Contact Person:  info@woodmanwinesandspirits.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.
 
 

Monday, December 21, 2009

Food and Wine Books Stocking Stuffers (Holiday Gifts)

 
Stocking stuffers are at the top of everybody's Holiday gift list: something
affordable (under $10, up to $20) that can also double as a host gift,
something small and lightweight. Most of the books here are paperbacks.
And of course they can stuff an adult stocking. Typical for food are:
 
FIELD GUIDE TO CANDY; how to identify and make virtually every candy
imaginable (Quirk Books, 2009, 318 pages, $19.95 CAD paper covers) is
by Anita Chu, and it must be at the top of everybody's gift list. It's
in a handbook format, and is one of a series of others devoted to
cookies, cocktails, herbs and spices. The book is arranged by type, so
all of the largely chocolate, nuts and fruits are together. Here are
100 recipes and variations (international in scope) covering caramel
apples, lollipops, Turkish delight, French pralines, and more. Each
product gets a general description, a history, and storage dos and
don'ts.
 

CHOP, SIZZLE & STIR (Ryland Peters & Small, 2009, 64 pages, $17.95
hardcover) is Nadia Arumugam, who had trained with the legendary
Mosimann. She serves up 35 fresh and fast stir-fries, plus variations.
All meats and vegetables are included, and of course, a wok is
preferred.
 

PESTOS, TAPENADES AND SPREADS (Chronicle Books, 2009, 96 pages, $16.95
USD soft covers) is by Stacey Printz. She has 12 different pestos and
14 tapenades, plus some spreads. The idea is to increase flavour by
adding just one teaspoon or so of pesto, etc. to almost any dish. I'm
all for that, although it would add to the salt component. Some recipes
here are nut-free and gluten-free. Try some edamame hummus, or some
balsamic fig with caramelized onion and dried cherry.
 

CAFFE ITALIA (Ryland Peters & Small, 2009, 64 pages, $17.95 hardcover)
is by Liz Franklin, a one time finalist in the BBC Masterchef
competition. Here she presents over 30 (plus variations) preps for
cookies, cakes, savoury panini, and the like – to accompany the Italian
coffee culture. There's some quick info on how to brew coffee, but
otherwise this is a fine short collection of food to go with coffee.
 

GUIDE TO HEALTHY FAST FOOD EATING, 2nd ed (McGraw Hill Canada, 2009, 294
pages, $12.95 paper covers) is by Hope Warshaw, a medical expert who
has written several books for the American Diabetes Association. Here
she gives nutrition info for 13 of the most popular US fast food
franchises, and most are in Canada, such as Baskin Robbins, Subway,
Pizza Hut, Burger King, McDonald, and Wendy. A great way to control
your weight when you eat in those joints: she gives healthy and light
choices, and suggests skills and strategies to create healthy meals at
these places. It's a jungle out there; you'll need all the help you can
get.
 

I'M DREAMING OF A GREEN CHRISTMAS (Chronicle Books, 2009, 180 pages,
$24.95 US soft covers) is above my price range, but it is the only book
I've seen this year to promote gifts, decorations, and recipes that
"use less" and "mean more". It has been endorsed by a few environmental
activists, and printed on 100% post-consumer waste recycled paper. It's
been written by activist Anna Getty. She carefully explains how to
reduce your carbon footprint, minimize waste, and creatively reuse.
There are tips on nesting at home, entertaining, trimming the tree,
giving donations.
 

100 SOUPS FOR $5 OR LESS (Gibbs Smith, 2009, $12.99 US paper covers) is
by Gayle Pierce. It is an open and shut book with easy recipes (one per
page plus variations). She emphasizes new things to do with veggies.
Each prep has lists of calories and fats per serving, and comes with
shopping tips, planning advice, and cooking tips. The arrangement is by
theme: light soups, bean soups, cream soups, fruit soups, meat-poultry-
seafood soups.
 

100 DESSERTS FOR $5 OR LESS (Gibbs Smith, 2009, 144 pages, $12.95 US
paper covers) is by Angel Shannon. It is set up the same way as the
Soup book above: easy recipes, one prep per page plus variations, and
covers cakes, candy, cookies, frozen deserts, pies, tarts, sauces and
frostings.
 

Other little books, for beverages, include:
 

PARKER'S WINE BARGAINS; the world's best wine values under $25 (Simon &
Schuster, 2009, 498 pages, $24 CAD soft cover) is by Robert Parker,
Jr., the world's most recognizable wine writer. This has been an
eagerly awaited book, since it would be a first for Parker. Previously,
he had issued from time to time a listing of his best bargains as he
wrote them in his "The Wine Advocate". But this is the first full-blown
attempt to list bargains. And, of course, it exceeds my $20 retail
limit on gift book purchases. But you can get it for $17.52 through
Amazon. It is organized by country, with 1500 producers and over 3000
wines. He uses his contributor team of Jay Miller, Antonio Galloni,
Mark Squires and others for notes, but he made the ultimate selection
of labels. The downside is that no vintage years are given. Now, while
the hallmark of a bargain wine is its consistency year in and year out,
a $25 US wine will show flavour variation from year to year, and some
vintages are better than others are. And the lack of dating keeps the
book fresher on the shelf. Parker has a food and wine pairing guide, a
vintage chart, and numerous top twenty lists. There are generic
regional tasting notes and American details about importers and stores.
Since we have the LCBO, this shouldn't concern us. A terrific book for
the Christmas season, and watch for more of these imports listed here
to show up at the LCBO.
 

SPICE & ICE (Chronicle Books, 2009, 160 pages, $16.95 US soft covers)
is by Kara Newman, who writes the "High Spirits" column for Chile
Pepper magazine. Here are 60 tongue-tingling cocktails, made with some
component of fresh chile peppers, or ginger or horseradish. There are
both fruity and savoury here, including the likes of "Wasabi-tinis" and
"Jumpin' Juleps". Excellent photos, and as the man says, "put a little
spice into your life".
 

CHEERS! An intemperate history of Beer in Canada (Collins, 2009, 321
pages, $19.99 CAD soft covers) is by the irrepressible Nicholas
Pashley, the celebrated writer of "Notes on a Beermat". He's written
scads of humour material in columns, for Dave Broadfoot, and three
governors general. Here he takes a light look at Canadian beer history.
It's a wide-ranging book, but it is a history written with a deft hand.
It even has an annotated bibliography and an index! I love the double-
blurring of the Mountie on the front cover and a double-blurred Pashley
himself (complete with red eye) on the back – beer doppelgangers all.
 

HOT DRINKS; indulgent hot chocolates, great coffees, soothing teas,
spiced punches, and other warming treats for cold days (Ryland, Peters
& Small, 2009 reissue, 96 pages, $16.95 US hard covers) is by Louise
Pickford, an experienced cookbook writer from the UK now living in
Australia. We'll need these hot drinks in the coming cold months of
2010. 75 recipes include Swedish glogg, hot rum and cider punch, and a
variety of milk drinks.
 

TEA WISDOM; inspirational quotes and quips about the world's most
celebrated beverage (Tuttle Publishing, 2009, 240 pages, $18.95 CAD
paper covers) has been collated by Aaron Fisher, who has written
extensively about tea ("The Art of Tea" magazine). This is a rock solid
collection of quotes and glosses from different time periods and
different regions of the world. I think the idea is to savour a cuppa
while reading parts of this book everyday. It should calm your nerves
over this rushed and argumentative season.
 

Still other smallish books include:
 
THE LOCAVORE WAY (Storey Publishing, 2009; distr. T. Allen, 247 pages,
$12.95 US soft covers) is a carry-along guide to shopping locally,
authored by Amy Cotler, founding director of Berkshire Grown, a
regional food initiative. She's also a cookbook author and a major
contributor to the revised "Joy of Cooking". In broad outlines, the
book tells us how to buy, to cook, and to eat close to home. She has
hints, lists, tips, tricks, and strategies for doing all this. Luckily,
there are not too many US references, just some specifics to expand on
the general. Check out www.amycotler.com.
 

I LOVE MACARONS (Chronicle Books, 2009, 80 pages, $14.95 US soft
covers) is by Hisako Ogita, and it was originally published in Japanese
in 2006. This is its first release in English. Macarons are almond
paste and sugar, baked into a cookie that is crisp and a little chewy,
and then sandwiched with (usually) cream fillings. There are full
instructions on how to make petit macaron pastries, plus combining
various puffs and creams (and decorating them). There is a whole
section on making the batter, another section on making the creams, and
a third section on putting them all together. Oh yes, there is also a
fourth section on using up the surplus egg yolks (that's not a problem,
with crème caramel, Bavarian creams, ice cream, and more). There are
several hundred pix here in this very entertaining book.
 

A non-book entry is the party kit. I have three – there's the CHEESE
TASTING PARTY KIT, subtitled "everything you need to host your own
cheese-tasting party" [except the cheese, of course] from Chronicle
Books, 2009, $16.95 US. There are 50 cheese profile cards for common
cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Tomme, Camembert, Stilton,
Cheddar, Manchego, and the like. The cards describe the milk used, some
background, and wine matches. There are also 50 ID cards with
toothpicks. And a fold-out informational card with a glossary and data
on buying, storing, and pairing. Janet Fletcher wrote this part.
 
For games at parties, you could do no worse than get WINE WARS; a
trivia game for wine geeks and wannabes (Chronicle Books, 2009, $19.95
US). It promises to be challenging to all and entertaining. Although it
is American based (e.g. "which country leads in wine exports to US?"),
it does cover common ground such as growing grapes, making wine, world
production, selecting and storing wine, and wine tasting. There are
also food matches to identify. 150 cards, 750 questions, 6 game boards,
1 die, and regional maps of the wine world. Watch out for the
comparable FOODIE FIGHT; a trivia game for serious food lovers
(Chronicle Books, 2009, $19.95 US). It's similarly setup with Q & A on
cards, but it is also more vicious.
 

Other non-book items include MOLLIE KATZEN'S RECIPES: DESSERTS (Ten
Speed Press, 2009, 120 pages, $16.95 CAD) in an easel edition. This is
a spiral version of a cook book, and it is a collection of 50 dessert
recipes. Preps come from her "Moosewood Cookbook" and "Enchanted
Broccoli Forest", but five of them are new. Another easel book (which
are great, by the way, since they open up rather well on your kitchen
counter) is CINDY PAWLYN'S APPETIZERS (Ten Speed Press, 2009, $17.95
CAD) which only has 40 recipes. Thirty of them come from her "Mustards
Grill Napa Valley Cookbook" and "Big Small Plates" book, but there are
10 newer ones.
 

Yet another non-book is the virtually-blank journal. EAT ME; the
journal (Chronicle Books, 2009, $16.95 US) is meant for the food-
obsessed. It is a book of pages to record your life in food, such as
food pleasures and restaurant dining experiences. There are sidebars
and lists. Specific blank chapters cover foods from our childhood, our
current family foods, top restaurants, top books read on food, dining
disasters, kitchen equipment, and wine and cocktails. Useful for
creating a track record.
 
There is a category of foodbooks called "little cookbooks"; these are
usually placed at POS (point-of-sales) spots. I've located a very good
collection of quick and easy, from Ryland Peters and Small, all
published in 2009. They are 64 or 96 pages each, and sell for $15.95
US, but they are also hard covers, so they look a bit more posh --
especially with the photography and the metric conversion charts. There
are about 50 recipes in each. One is COOKING WITH PUMPKINS AND SQUASH
(50 recipes) which is also timely since these are still locally
available through the winter. Brian Glover is the author; he covers all
courses and desserts. Try zucchini and ricotta fritters, roasted squash
with leek and barley pilaf, chicken and butternut squash tagine, and
spiced pumpkin and apple pie. Another of Glover's books is COOKING WITH
LEMONS & LIMES (29 recipes) which contains mostly classical
Mediterranean dishes (pasta with clams, shrimp and lemons; grilled
zucchini and feta salad; roast lemon chicken) plus Key Lime pie, lemon
curd, and preserved lemons. COOKING WITH APPLES & PEARS (33 recipes) is
by Laura Washburn, and includes both sweets and savouries. There are
more apple than pear recipes, which reflects popularity levels.
Surprisingly, there is only one recipe which includes both apples and
pears: a ginger-apple-pear chutney. But, as in Europe, one can always
substitute pears for almost every apple dish. LOVE YOUR LEFTOVERS (50
recipes) is a guide to feeding your friends and family for next to
nothing. It is quite timely. 18 authors from the Ryland stable
contributed such preps as cauliflower cheese, fruit crumble, banana
bread, and a host of meat dishes. ITALIAN BREADS (28 recipes) is by
Maxine Clark, and includes large loaves, ciabatta rolls, flatbreads,
focaccia, grissini, pizza dough, and sweet breads.
 

There's another collection from BBC Books (2009), all on the theme of
101 recipes from British magazines. They are 216 pages each, and retail
for $12.95 CAD at a very convenient 5 inch by 6 inch size. Each recipe
has a pix of the finished plate, and the style is quick and easy. By
Janine Ratcliff there is OLIVE: 101 BRILLIANT BAKING IDEAS, from Olive
Magazine in the UK, "classic dishes from around the world". OLIVE: 101
STYLISH SUPPERS is hyped as a stay-in supper book for foodies in the
credit crunch. Jane Hornby wrote 101 MORE ONE-POT DISHES from Good Food
Magazine in the UK, as well as 101 SPEEDY SUPPERS. Sarah Cook did 101
CURRIES for the same Good Food Magazine. A good bargain series.
 

Annual calendars are always monster hits and are often appreciated,
both the wall and the desk type. The best of the desk are the three
"page-a-day" (PAD) calendars from Workman. THE WINE LOVER'S CALENDAR
2010 (Workman, 2009, $16.99 CAD) has been put together by Karen
MacNeil, author of "The Wine Bible", with Brooke Cheshier. Saturday and
Sunday have been combined on one page. There is a new varietal
highlighted each month, tips galore for pouring and tasting, food and
wine matching, bargains, pop quizzes, etc. etc. And 100 "must try"
wines are highlighted (many can be found in Canada). 365 BOTTLES OF
BEER FOR THE YEAR 2010 (Workman, 2009, $16.99 CAD) is by Bob Klein,
author of "The Beer Lover's Rating Guide". It too has a combined
Saturday and Sunday page. Most of the beers appear as imports in
Canada, but otherwise there are few Canadian brews included. Lights,
lagers, ales, porters, stouts, and lambrics – they're all here. Other
material in the PAD includes beer festivals, beer facts, label lore and
vocabulary. If you buy any of the PAD calendars, then you can go online
to the website and pick up other stuff, usually free at
www.pageaday.com. For wall calendars, there is GO VEGAN! 2010 Calendar
(Arsenal Pulp Press, 2009, $14.95 CAD) which has full-colours
throughout and is the same size as an LP (remember those?). Susan
Kramer has authored many vegan books for this publisher. She appears
here in many re-creations of advertisements and movie posters, as an
iconic image of the 1940s and 1950s, reworked for modern vegan
audiences. There are facts, dates and trivia here. For example, you can
celebrate World Vegan Day on November 1. The Vegan Society was started
in Great Britain in 1944 (that's the year they ran out of every food
possible).
 

On to the wine annuals. The two leaders are HUGH JOHNSON'S POCKET WINE
BOOK 2010 (Mitchell Beazley, 2009, 320 pages, $19.99 CAD hard bound)
and OZ CLARKE'S POCKET WINE GUIDE 2010 (Sterling Books, 2009, 352
pages, $19.50 CAD hardbound). Both are guides to wines from all around
the world, not just to the "best" wines. Similarities: Johnson claims
more than 6000 wines are listed, while Clarke says more than 7000, but
then recommends 4000 producers. News, vintage charts and data,
glossaries, best value wines, and what to drink now are in both books.
The major differences: Johnson has been at it longer – this is his 33rd
edition -- and has more respect from erudite readers for his exactitude
and scholarliness. His book is arranged by region; Clarke's book is in
dictionary, A – Z form (about 1600 main entries). It is really six of
one, or half a dozen of another which one to use. Johnson's entry for
Canada is 1.2 pages (big deal). Oz has only one paragraph apiece on
Inniskillin, Okanagan (recommending just red wines), and Niagara
(recommending just icewines). Both books have notes on the 2008
vintage, along with a closer look at the 2007. It is fun to look at
both books and find out where they diverge. As a sidelight, Johnson and
Oz are moving into food: there is a 16 page section on food and wine
matching in the former, while Oz has 6 pages. Johnson also has a
listing of his personal 200 fave wines. Both books could profit from
online accessibility or a CD-ROM production.
 
Other wine annuals – mostly paperbacks -- deal with "recommended"
wines, not all of the wines in the world. They can afford the space for
more in-depth tasting notes (TNs) of what they actually do cover
(usually just wines available in their local marketplace).
 
Thus, HAD A GLASS; top 100 wines for 2010 under $20, $25, and $30
(Whitecap, 2009, 168 pages, $19.95 CAD paper covers) is by Kenji
Hodgson and James Nevison, the authors of 2003's "Have a Glass; a
modern guide to wine". They are the British Columbia
www.halfaglass.com. Had a Glass (now in its fifth edition) showcases
top inexpensive wines available primarily in BC, although those labels
with national distribution will also be found in other provinces. They
try to pick wines available to match any occasion, and along the way
they provide tips on food and wine pairing and stemware. The first
fifty pages present all the basics, including food recipes. I am not
sure why it is here since the book is really about the top 100 wines.
Most readers/buyers will head straight for the listings which follow,
one per page, for whites, roses, reds, aperitifs, dessert wines and
sparklers. This year, in view of rising prices, they have enlarged
their scope to cover wines at $25 and $30. Unfortunately, for Ontario,
this is just at the very time that the LCBO is concentrating on the $15
to $19.95 spread, with few wines above $20. There are indexes by
countries, by wine, and by food. Tasting notes are pretty bare bones,
but each wine does have a label, a price, and some food matches.
 

THE WINE TRIALS 2010 (Fearless Critic, 2009; distr. T.Allen, 225 pages,
$14.95 US soft covers) is by Robin Goldstein, with
Alexis Nerschkowitsch. Both have food and wine credentials, in addition
to authoring restaurant review books and travel books. They have been
assisted by 13 named contributing writers and 500 named blind tasters.
The object of the book is to come up with hidden wine values. The cover
proclaims brown-bag blind tastings for wine values under $15. That's
$15 US, of course, and does not allow for discounts and sales so
prevalent in the US marketplace. For example, top rated Segura Viudas
Brut Reserva is $8 US national retail. It can be cheaper. In Ontario,
it is $14.65, a firm price. So it is possible that a top rated US wine
at $20, going on sale for under $15, could be well over $30 in Ontario.
Most of the wines sold in Ontario are under $25 – the trick is to find
the best ones. This book should give some guidance. They list 150 wines
under $15 US that outscored $50 to $150 bottles, using hundreds of
blind tasters who filled in a simple form. The authors have lots of
material justifying their choices, and there are copious notes for each
of the 150 wines. Only about half the wines are available in Ontario,
and many are not value priced because of the exchange rate,
the LCBO mark-up policy and lack of sales/discounts.
 

THE 500 BEST-VALUE WINES IN THE LCBO 2010 (Whitecap, 2009, 248 pages,
$19.95 CAD paper back) takes a more determined run at the wines at the
LCBO. This third edition, by Rod Phillips, has wines arranged by wine
colour and then by region/country with price and CSPC number. Each
value wine gets a rating (the basic is three stars out of five), with
an indication of food pairings. A good guidebook, but I'm afraid most
people will just look through it for the 5 star selections and leave it
at that. Turnover in Ontario must be enormous because this update
claims over 200 new wines for a book that deals with just 500. Coverage
is limited to LCBO General Purchase wines and LCBO Vintages Essentials,
the wines that are available (if only by special order) in every LCBO
store.
 

BILLY'S BEST BOTTLES; wines for 2010 (McArthur & Company, 2010, 240
pages, $19.95 CAD soft covers) by Billy Munnelly is back for another
round (20th ed), creating more emphasis on wine and food pairing, party
planning, and some social manners. There's some info about country
trends and frequently-asked questions about wine. Plus data on Ontario
winery tours. His whole concept of wine is organized by Mood, with
sections on wine colour and style/weight, and the wines are usually
those available at the LCBO. Most should be available across the
country. He has over 200 best international wine buys, with most under
$20 and many under $12. And there is a wine index at the back where
wines are listed by region. Check out www.billysbestbottles.com.
 
 
 

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Nov 21/09 - WWCC Tasting - Ports

 The Time and Date: Friday, November 20, 2009
The Event: Wine Writers Circle of Canada Port Tasting
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square
The Target Audience: wine writer members of WWCC
The Wines:  about 30 ports were tasted.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Taylor Fladgate  10 Year Old Tawny Port  20%  Vintages Essentials 
#121749  $34.95
-Taylor Fladgate  20 Year Old Tawny  Vintages Essentials  #149047 
$67.95
-Graham's 20 Year Old Tawny Port  20% alc  CSPC 620641  500ml  $36.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Warre's Otima  10 year Old Tawny Port  20% alc  #566174  500ml  $22.95
-Taylor's LBV  2003  20% alc   #46946  $17.95  December sale $16.95
-Ferreira  Dona Antonia Reserva NV  20% alc  #157586  $18.70
-Graham's LBV 2003  20%  #191239  $17.45
-Graham's 10 year Old Tawny Port  20% alc  CSPC 206508  $27.95
-Quinta de Ventozelo 10 Year Old Tawny Port  19.5% alc Vintages 0141044
$27.95
-Sandeman VAU Vintage  2000  20% alc Vintages #973768  $29.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Six Grapes Reserve   NV  20% alc  Vintages 208405  $22.95
-Taylor's First Estate  NV   20% alc    #309401  $15.95
-Royal Oporto 10 Year Old, +661223 Vintages, $12.95 for 200 mL
-Qunita de Ventozelo Porto Reserva  NV    20% alc #0141028  $17.95
 
The Contact Person:  sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88
 
 
 
 

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Nov 19/09 - Trade Event - Gourmet Food & Wine Expo

The Time and Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5PM to 10PM
The Event: the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, VIP night
The Venue: Metro Toronto Convention Centre
The Target Audience: wine press, wine trade, private insiders.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, especially with an
onsite LCBO store which carried most of the offerings.
The Quote/Background: I use the show to catch up with New York wines,
and some select suppliers who do not have a portfolio tasting, and the
theme country (this year, Portugal). I find that I can just barely get
though the evening…there are so many wines, and so little time.
The Quote/Background:
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ch. Wantz Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kirchberg 1999 Alsace, $49.65 
Nokhrin
-Ch. Wantz Gewurztraminer 2005 Alsace, $38.15 Nokhrin
-Guicciardini Strozzi Bolgheri Superiore 2004 Tuscany, $49 Le Sommelier
-Deltetto Spumante de Qualidad Extra Brut Rose NV Piedmont, $49 Le
Sommelier
-Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo Vigna Croera 2004 Piedmont, $250 Le
Sommelier
-Ulithorne Frux Frugis Shiraz 2004 McLaren Vale, $60 Le Sommelier
-Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve 2007 Niagara, $24.95  Churchill
-Peninsula Ridge Cabernet 2004 Niagara, (50/50 cabernet sauvignon and
franc) $12.75 +598748 – a BEST BUY steal
-Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007 A. J. Lepp Vineyard, $18.95
Vintages +78543
-Five Stones Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2008 Margaret River, +108001,
$18.95 Vintages
-Finca Allende Red 2005 Spain, +954560, $34.95 Vintages
-Domaine Courbis Cornas Les Eygats 2004, +719385, $64.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ch. Wantz Muscat M Collection Personelle 2007 Alsace, $29.90 Nokhrin
-Tapena Garnacha 2007 Spain, +72553 LCBO $13.75
-Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2008, +175430 LCBO $16.25
-Wente Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, +301507, $16.75
-Casa de Santa Vitoria Tinto 2005 Portugal, $15
-J.P. Vinhos Tinto da Anfora Portugal $13
-Quinta Da Giesta Dao 2005 Portugal, $15.95
-Esporao Reserva Red 2007 Portugal
-Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2003 Tuscany, $75 Le Sommelier
-Fita Preta 2005 Portugal, $55 Le Sommelier
-Hermanos Pecina Reserva 2001 Rioja, $54 Le Sommelier
-Roagna Barbaresco Paje Riserva 1998 Piedmont, $115 Le Sommelier
-Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Niagara, +53678 LCBO, $14.75
-Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Franc Beal Vineyard 2007 Niagara, $15.95 
Churchill
-Alvento Winery VIO Viognier 2007 Niagara Bench, $25.95 Winery
-Chateau Calissanne Clos Victoire 2004 Aix-en-Provence, +982207, $39
Vintages
-Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes, $29.95, +90332
Vintages
-Heron Hill Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes, $21.99  Tannin Fine Wines
-Lamoreaux Landing Chardonnay 2007 Finger Lakes, $23.40 MCO
-Bedell Cellars First Crush White 2008 Long Island, $25.70 Edward's
Wines
-Raphael Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Long Island, $25.70 John Hanna & Sons
-Osprey's Dominion Vineyards Meritage 2005 Long Island, $53.40, Robert
Ketchin
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ch. Wantz Riesling Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2001, $40.55 Nokhrin
-Alamos Seleccion Malbec 2007 Argentina, +198670, $18.95
-Alamos Pinot Noir 2008 Argentina, $17.95
-Cortes de Cima Chamine 2006 Portugal, $16.95
-Quinta do Crasto Douro Red 2007 Portugal
-Fox Run Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 Finger Lakes, $14.75 Lorac Wine
-Donatella Cinelli Colombini Il Drago e Le Sette Colombe 2004 Tuscany,
$34 Le Sommelier
-Brotherhood Pinto Noir 2006 Hudson River, +79939 Vintages, $18.25
-Raphael Merlot 2001 Long Island, +82388, $29.95 Vintages
-Piero Busso Barbaresco San Stefanetto 2004 Piedmont, $79 Le Sommelier
-Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes, $20.25, +70631
Vintages
-Altano Douro 2007 Portugal, +579862 Vintages $11.75
-Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2007 Niagara, $14.75 +61101 LCBO
-Martin Codax Salterio Albarino Rias Baixas 2008, +2774, $16.95
Vintages
-Domaine Bonnard Sancerre White 2008, +140525, $22.95 Vintages
-Laurent Mabileau St. Nicolas de Bourgueil 2007 Loire, +61192, $15.95
Vintages
-Martin Codax Cuatro Pasos Mencia Bierzo Spain, +39313, $16.95 Vintages
-Five Stones Shiraz 2008 Margaret River, +111120, $22.95 Vintages
 
The Food: mostly Saputo cheeses, breads and crackers, plus shrimp from
Acqua Star at Churchill Cellars which had a private showing of their
wines. Most of the food vendors are too busy selling their products.
The Downside: it got crowded quickly, people know what to do now.
The Upside: a good event to catch up with country wines such as New
York State.
The Contact Person: kdobrucki@townmedia.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88
 
 

Friday, December 18, 2009

Nov 19/09 - Trade Tasting - Daniel Vollenweider

The Time and Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009  Noon to 3 PM
The Event: a tasting with Daniel Vollenweider of Traben-Trarbach
(Mosel), specializing in Riesling (Kabinett to TBA)
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve.
The Target Audience: clients of John Hanna & Sons
The Availability/Catalogue:
The Quote/Background: all the wines came from a single vineyard, Wolfer
Goldrube, from ungrafted Riesling vines.
The Wines: A great range of wines, a dozen in all, at all sweetness
levels, from a single Mosel vineyard, and reflecting a purity of style
with consistent minerality tones. Very decent prices for the drier
wines.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese 2002 Wolfer Goldrube  sold out
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Auslese 2005 Wolfer Goldrube  $53.95
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Auslese Long Gold Kapsule 2007 Wolfer
Goldrube  $111.25 for 375mL
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2006 Wolfer Goldrube 
$364 for 375mL
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling 2008 Wolfer Goldrube  $24.05
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Kabinett Dry 2008 Wolfer Goldrube  $27.60
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese 2004 Wolfer Goldrube  sold out
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese Gold Kapsule 2008 Wolfer
Goldrube  $49.95
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Beerenauslese 2007 Wolfer Goldrube 
$219.70
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Kabinett 2008 Wolfer Goldrube  $27.60
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese 2004 Wolfer Goldrube  $36.80
-Daniel Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese 2004 Wolfer Goldrube  $36.80
 
The Contact Person: info@winetrader.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.
 
 

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Nov 17/09 - Trade Tasting - La Chablisienne at Biff's

The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 17, 2009  Noon to 2:30 PM
The Event: a luncheon to taste La Chablisienne wines in the Ontario
marketplace.
The Venue: Biff's Bistro
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: we sampled four wines from listings at the
LCBO. We also had a reception wine, Cremant de Bourgogne Reserve NV
from Bailly-Lapierre ($19.95 Vintages), a partner of La Chablisienne.
The Quote/Background: La Chablisienne is represented by Vinexx;
Christoph Cardona, the Export Manager for the Americas, was on hand to
lead the tasting and to answer any questions. The co-op has 300
grapegrowers who supply must to the team of winemakers. The co-op has
about 25% of all Chablis vineyards. They make a range of 30 different
special wines (including classed crus of 13 Premiers and 6 Grands)
right down to basic Chablis and Petit Chablis. At the top is Chateau
Grenouilles, made with 35 year old vines from a single estate in
Grenouilles. Next May 2010 the Classics catalogue will feature more
Chablis from this producer.
The Wines: it was very good to taste a range of Chablis against food.
Chablis is the classic food wine, with its crisp tartness.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Chablisienne Chateau Grenouilles Chablis Grand Cru 2005, $89 +82974
Classics Catalogue
-La Chablisienne Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot 2005, $65 +581686 Classics
Catalogue
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bailly-Lapierre Cremant de Bourgogne Reserve NV, $19.95
-La Chablisienne Chablis Les Venerables Vielles Vignes 2006, $24.95
Vintages Essentials +942243 – made from 35 year old vines. Half of the
production is allocated to the LCBO.
 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Chablisienne Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorents 2006, $31.80 +111666
Vintages
 
The Food: we began with appetizers, with the Cremant: cured salmon
wraps, quiche, chicken with mustard sauce, chevre on toasts. Most of us
then had the smoked salmon, although some had the beet soup. We all
chose the seared arctic char with remoulade, green beans, and a toasted
almond vinaigrette. The cheese platter had a triple crème, a blue, and
a firm cheese (all unidentified, but then, nobody asked the service). A
classic vanilla bean creme brulee came for dessert, with espresso and
Vieux Marc du Chateau Grenouilles (400 bottles a year, not for sale,
but valued at $250 a bottle).
The Downside: we were originally to have Damien Leclerc, Directeur
Generale of La Chablisienne, but he had to cancel his whole North
American tour at the last moment.
The Upside: quality wine with quality food.
The Contact Person: sdrotos@vinexx.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.
 
 
 
 

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Nov 12/09 - Trade Tasting - Champagne Fleury

The Time and Date: Thursday, November 12, 2009  2 Pm to 5 PM
The Event: A tasting of Champagne Fleury, the only biodynamic winery in
the Champagne district.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina
The Target Audience: clients and wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available now, in six packs
The Quote/Background: Fleury, founded in 1895, is in the Cotes des Bar,
south end of Champagne. Jean-Pierre Fleury began biodynamic techniques
in 1989, beginni9ng with just 3 hectares. By 1992, all 15 hectares were
in process of being biodynamic. Before that time, Fleury had been
"sustainable" with manual tilling and composting. His daughter Morgane
was in town to promote the wines via a dinner at The Black Hoof. 90% of
their estate grapes is Pinot Noir. Annuals sales: 200,000 bottles
(stock on hand is 1 million). 60% of the wine is exported.
The Wines: Five wines were sampled --
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fleury Millesime 1995, $89.95 – bargain priced for this quality
-Robert Fleury 2000 (1/3 pinot blanc, pinot noir, chardonnay), $79.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fleury Carte Rouge Brut NV, $56.95 (ten years old)
-Fleury Fleur de L'Europe Brut NV, $56.95 (eight years old)
-Rose de Saignee Brut NV, $67.95
 
The Food: quality cheeses and pate, breads.
The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.