April 17, 2010: LCBO Vintages Release Tasting Notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 17, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2008 Napa: restaurant wine, but still
complex, consistent, good value. +136382, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Santa Julia Organica Chardonnay 2009 Mendoza: organic wine but
fantastic price for delivering quality MVC chardonnay tones. +141408,
$12.95, QPR: 91.
3. Caliterra Tributo Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 Casablanca: strong
aromas of coconut and vanilla from the US oak, but very approachable,
lovely wine. +144709, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Penmara Reserve Chardonnay 2008 Orange New South Wales: good dense
flavours, complex arrangement of fruit and oak. +912790, $17.95, QPR:
89.
5. Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough: juicy apples (spy?) or
malic acid plus the herby quality of a sauvignon blanc. Long finish.
+686675, $14.95, QOR: 89.
6. Martin Steimer Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: affordable MVC for the
grape, will not disappoint. +709790, $16.95, QPR: 89.
7. Max. Ferd. Richter Riesling Kabinett 2007 Mosel: intense riesling
character, very Germanic, MVC is good for the price. +160556, $15.95,
QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendocino: cool climate
style, useful organic wine, twist top. +161240, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Colchagua: good
aging, complex and better with food. +46268, $16.95, QPR: 89.
3. Tatu Primitivo del Tarantino 2006 Puglia: thicker, juicier, and
cheaper than zinfandel at this price, 14% ABV. +160390, $14.95, QPR:
90.
4. Farina Le Pezze Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006: great
concentration and depth, length, and needs food. +134684, $14.95, QPR:
90.
5. Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Veneto: Heavier than other years,
13.5% ABV, good dose of blueberries. +987701, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Franciscan Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +496125, $24.95 retail.
2. Josef Chromy Pinot Gris 2008 Tasmania, +162974, $22.95.
3. Hahn Estates Meritage 2007 Central Coast California, +161265,
$24.95.
4. Josef Chromy Pinot Noir 2008 Tasmania, +163022, $26.95.
5. Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz Barossa, +32227, $23.95.
6. Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007, +933317, $27.95.
7. Masi Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron Amarone Della Valpolicella
Classico 2004, +462812, $69.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

March 24/10 Event: "Ontario Chardonnay: seriously cool", trade show.

The Time and Date: Wednesday, March 24, 2010   4:30 PM to 6 PM
The Event: "Ontario Chardonnay: seriously cool", trade show.
The Venue: Toronto Lawn Tennis Club
The Target Audience: wine trade, wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, although library
wines can be in short supply.
The Quote/Background: Bill Redelmeier of Southbrook Winery has
organized a tasting of Ontario chardonnay wines at Canada House in
London, UK, May 17. He had a tasting panel to choose wines through a
blind process. Once that selection had been made, he offered these
wines to the Ontario Wine Society for a special tasting (not blind).
They were arranged by longitude, from east to west.
The Wines: These rankings reflect my own personal tastes. I did not taste any Musque, sparkling wine, nor Icewine. 34 currently
available wines are going to London, plus some library wines.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Malivoire Moira Chardonnay 2005 Beamsville, $36.95
-Tawse Winery Quarry Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Beamsville, $35
-Closson Chase S. Kocsis Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Unfiltered
Beamsville, $44.95
-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay Organic 2008 Niagara, $21.95
-Coyote's Run Estate Winery Black Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, $22
-Malivoire Moira Chardonnay 2004 Beamsville, $64.95 library wine
-Cave Spring Cellars Chardonnay CSV Estate Bottled 2003 Beamsville, N/A
-Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay 1998 Niagara, $154 magnum library wine
-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2007 Beamsville, $35
-Lailey Vineyard Winery Old Vines Chardonnay 2008, Niagara, $40
-Chateau des Charmes Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007, Niagara, $13.95
-Le Clos Jordanne Talon Ridge Chardonnay 2007 Niagara
-Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay Reserve 2008 Niagara.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Norman Hardie Chardonnay Unfiltered 2008 Beamsville, $35
-Hidden Bench Tete de Cuvee Chardonnay 2006 Beamsville, $45
-Malivoire Chardonnay Mottiar Vineyard 2007 Beamsville, $39.95.
-Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay 2005 Niagara, $56
-Rosehall Run Chardonnay Rosehall Vineyard 2007 PEC, $29.95
-Tawse Winery Quarry Road Chardonnay 2007 Beamsville, $35
-Lailey Vineyard Winery Brickyard Chardonnay 2008, Niagara, $30
-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2008 Beamsville, $35
-Hillebrand Winery Showcase Chardonnay Wild Ferment 2008 Niagara, $35
-Huff South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 PEC, $29.95
-Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, $24
-Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery Chardonnay Reserve 2008 Niagara, $38
-Le Clos Jordanne LCJ Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Niagara
-Cave Spring Cellars CS Vineyard Chardonnay 2005 Niagara

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve 2007 Niagara, $24.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Estate Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007 Niagara
Escarpment, $19.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Estate Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2007
Niagara
-Peller Estates Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie 2008 Niagara, $30
-Peller Estates Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie 2007 Niagara, $30
-Flat Rock Cellars The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, $24.95
-Rosehall Run Vineyards Chardonnay Cuvee County 2008 PEC, $21.95
-Southbrook Triomphe Certified Organic Chardonnay 2008 Niagara

 

The Food: quality bread, water.
The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 23/10 California Wine Fair Media Preview Tasting

The Time and Date:  Tuesday, March 23, 2010 5Pm to 8:30PM
The Event: California Wine Fair Media Preview Tasting
The Venue: Far Niente Restaurant
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines will be at the April 19th
California Wine Fair – most will be in the Ontario market by the end of
summer.
The Quote/Background: My favourite form of tasting is a sit-down with
no talking – just an examination of several different wines in the
glass. There were several different flights: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,
Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon (twice as many cabs as any other wine
flight). There were nine other miscellaneous wines, such as Merlot and
Syrah. We tasted all the flights of wines blind, with knowledge of only
the grape variety. There were 53 wines, out of an anticipated 420 at
the show.
The Wines:  

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sanford St. Rita Hills Pinot Noir Santa Barbara 2007, $43.95 Vintages
08/10
-Michael David Winery 7 Deadly Zins Lodi 2007, $24.95 Vintages 08/10
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars FAY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $134
Profile Wine Group PO
-Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005, $89.95 Vintages
-Bennett Lane Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $136
Consignment from Kruger Wines and Spirits

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rodney Strong Chardonnay Sonoma 2007, $18.95 (2008 at Vintages or
Consignment)
-Chappellet Chardonnay 2008, $42.95 Vintages 08/10
-Cuvaison Chardonnay Napa 2008, $26.95 Vintages
-Miner Chardonnay Napa 2008, N/A
-Testarossa Vineyards Pinot Noir Palazzio Central Coast 2008, $34.95
Vintages
-Pedroncelli Pinot Noir Russian River 2008, N/A
-Clos La Chance Wines Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, N/A
-Stags Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $49.95 Vintages
-Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2008, $17.95 Vintages
-Titus Vineyards Zinfandel Napa 2007, $34.50 Consignment from 25 Brix
-Seghesio Family Vineyards Zinfandel Sonoma 2008, $29.95 Vintages
-Signorello Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005, $71.95 Consignment
from Profile
-Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $69 Prevedello and Mathews PO
-Duckhorn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2006, $66.95 Consignment
from Rogers
-Francis Ford Coppola Winery CASK Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2006,
$95, Vintages 10/10
-Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard Napa 2004, $70 Consignment
from Lifford.
-Stolpman Vineyards Estate Syrah Santa Ynez 2007, $32.75 Consignment
from 25 Brix

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay Livermore 2008, $16.95 LCBO
-Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek 2006, $22.95 Vintages
-Rutherford Wine Co Lander Jenkins Spirit Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon 2007,
$19.75
-Lucas & Lewellen Cabernet Franc Santa Barbara 2006, $26 Schiralli PO
-Ironstone Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel Lodi 2007, $17.95 Vintages
05/10
-Truchard Vineyards Zinfandel Napa 2007, $21.95 Vintages 05/10
-Gloria Ferrer Winery Pinot Noir Carneros 2006, $27.75 Vintages

 

The Food: as always, anticipated and good: upscale gourmet sandwiches,
skewered meats, shrimp, hot hors d'oeuvre, and the like.
The Downside: it was in the evening, which is a bad time for me, but
c'est la vie!
The Upside: my fave kind of tasting.
The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

A FEW MORE COOKBOOKS IN REVIEW....

3. THE MODERN CAFÉ (John Wiley, 2010, 550 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-37134-3, $65 US hard covers) is by Francisco J. Migoya of the Culinary Institute of America. He's a former executive pastry chef at The French Laundry, and Bouchon Bistro/Bakery; he currently runs the CIA's own café (since 2005). As the publisher states, this book is a guide for both novices and experienced chefs. It's a textbook for anyone thinking of opening a café or upgrading a current one. Today's café culture offers quick meals to those on the run: breakfast baked goods, artisan breads, desserts, cakes, savoury items such as sandwiches and quiches, quick meals, chocolates and candies, beverages, packaged items, and frozen desserts. In many respects, it is the modern version of the diner – without the hot plate special. The text covers management principles, pricing formulas, displays and packaging, as well as recipes. The book is divided into themes: the bakery, the pastry shop, the savory kitchen, beverages, and the retail shelf. He also has a glossary and a bibliography, as well as a list of US supply sources.

Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. And all ingredients are scaled. Quantities are on the high side, such as 40 pieces of craquelin or three chocolate cakes, so the home cook needs to adjust.

Audience and level of use: professional schools, cafes, serious hone cooks.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the bakery is a low-cost/high-profit centre. Migoya covers the seven key ingredients and provides master recipes for brioche, croissants, Danish, pound cake, muffins, scones, biscuits and breads.

The downside to this book: very heavy book at just over five pounds.

The upside to this book: it fulfills a definite need, good layout and photography (especially for techniques).

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

4. THE 200 SUPERFOODS THAT WILL SAVE YOUR LIFE (McGraw-Hill, 2010, 363 pages, ISBN 978-0-07-162575-3, $19.95US soft covers) is by Deborah A. Klein, M.S., RD, a top dietician/nutritionist in Los Angeles for the past 15 years. This is at least the third or fourth such book in a year; I am not sure I can stand many more of them. To tell you the truth, I don't think I even KNOW 200 foods, let alone 200 superfoods. There is a brief description of each food, followed by "benefits", nutritional information, techniques in cooking, and a recipe. There are no red meats, just turkey, chicken, and various fishes. The arrangement is by food type: fruits, vegetables, grains, dairy plus soy, proteins, fats, sweeteners, and herbs. Material at the back includes staples for the pantry, a couple of dozen menu ideas (with calorie counts), snack ideas, and a grocery shopping list. The last section lists 20 different "actions that will save your life." For the guys, she introduces anti-inflammatory fats and proteins to reduce the risk of heart disease. For the gals, she talks about how to combine phytochemicals and nutrients to look younger longer.

Audience and level of use: for the health conscious.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: none of the foods here is esoteric, and the recipes are not unusual (e.g., millet bowl, chicken in red wine, nectarine muffins, baked halibut, watercress fusilli, ratatouille, acorn squash bisque)

The downside to this book: has to compete with similar books on this topic of superfoods.

The upside to this book: she stresses the combination of foods to balance macronutrients for maximum health and energy.

Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

5. ARTISAN BREADS AT HOME WITH THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (John Wiley, 2010, 434 pages, ISBN 978-0-47018260-4, $34.95US hard covers) is by Eric W. Kastel, associate professor of baking at the CIA. This book continues the "At Home" series from the CIA, a series of cookbooks reflecting the current curriculum at the CIA but with more user friendly recipes meant for home cooks. As Kastel said, you don't need a brick oven nor keep a sourdough starter on hand. The emphasis is on loaves, rolls and flatbreads. As is typical in a CIA production, there is great detail on techniques and flours, followed by the twelve steps of bread baking, with detailed descriptions. After the basic breads, Kastel encourages the home cook to move onto more advanced baking. Typical beginner productions are Kaiser rolls, rye bread, and whole wheat bread. Flatbreads embrace pita and tortillas as well as breadsticks. Advanced breads involve starters like a sponge, biga, poolish, and sourdoughs. Ingredients are listed with ounces, grams, volume, and bakers percentages. Yields are generally two loaves or nine (and more) rolls. This basic book should also serve as a refresher to the more serious home baker. The appendix has some dips and sauces recipes, some illustrated material on braiding and knotting, and a listing of other books and resources (ingredients and equipment).

Audience and level of use: home bakers (both new and experienced).

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: multigrain English muffins, lavash, durum and rosemary-lemon rolls, lima bean spread, almond and currant sourdough, ciabatta, fig and hazelnut bread, cheese breads, hot cross buns, cream cheese-apple-walnut coffee cake)

The downside to this book: because of the photographs, the paper is thick and the book is consequently heavier than normal.

The upside to this book: scaling, which he uses, is always better than volume.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 5/10 Tasting: APVSA French Wines not in Ontario Market

The Time and Date: Friday, March 5, 2010   10 AM to 6 PM

The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et

spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep

the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there are often sales staff

available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also

visits New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary and Montreal

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be

acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we

already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price

advantages, either. These 60 or so wines could be made available

through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, many have been picked up

for sale in Ontario. Here were my faves, regardless of price (all

prices are ex-cellar Euros):

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau Magence Graves 2000, 7.5 E

-Chateau Barateau Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois 2006, 6 E

-Maison Humbrecht Gewurztraminer 2007, 8.80 E

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau Ferrand St. Emilion Grand Cru 2007, 9 E

-Chateau Cabredon Bordeaux 2008, 3.50 E

-SARL Danielle de l'Ansee Dom. Gibault Platine 2009 Touraine, 3.04 E

-SARL Danielle de l'Ansee Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Touraine, 2.88 E

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Maison Paul Reitz Bourgogne Chardonnay 2004, 4.40 E

-Chateau Brannens Graves 2005, 5.5 E

-Chateau Font-Vidal 2005 Bordeaux, 3.18 E

-Chateau Font-Vidal 2007 Bordeaux, 2.35 E

-Maison Humbrecht Riesling Prestige 2008, 7.30 E -- organic

-Chateau Cabredon Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux 2007, 3.90 E

-Chateau Cabredon Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux Tradition 2004, 6 E

-Chateau Cabredon Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux Tradition 2003, 6.30 E

 

The Food: none.

The Downside: selection is eclectic and bottles arrive haphazardly.

Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told this until we

got there.

The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.

There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

April 3/2010 Vintages Release: tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 3, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Irony Chardonnay 2008 Napa: good balance and depth, a restaurant
wine, consistent from year to year. +27409, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2008 WO Coastal Region: juicy, MVC
nettles and gooseberries, twist top, 13% ABV. +948620, $13.95, QPR: 90.
3. Andre Blanck Rosenbourg Pinot Blanc 2008 Alsace: delicate white
flowers, malic minerality at the finish. +626606, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Maison Francois Martenot Cuvee Prestige Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007:
well-rounded, some caramel, value-driven. +159095, $16.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Lander-Jenkins Spirit Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California: good
balance of fruit and acid, longer finish, 13.5% ABV. +161398, $17.95,
QPR: 89.
2. Humberto Canale Caracter Patagonia Intimo Malbec 2008: fruity,
plumy, very heavy bottle, 13.5% ABV. +144725, $12.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chilensis Reserva Carmenere 2008 Maule Valley: superb tamed
herbaceousness, lots of acidified fruit, long balanced finish. +657981,
$11.95, QPR: 91.
4. Seifried Estate Pinot Noir Nelson South Island: tasty, lightly sour,
good heft to MVC component. +70778, $19.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau Haut-Grelot Cuvee Tradition 2006 Premieres Cotes de Blaye:
very traditional, straightforward Bordeaux with wood, mocha,
underbrush. Great price. +165738, $15.95, QPR: 91.
6. Domaine Laurent Mabileau Bourgueil 2008: good cabernet franc
intensity, herby but fresh too. +699666, $13.95, QPR: 89.
7. Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun 2007:
good wash of syrah and depth to the finish. +155804, $16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Skouras Saint George 2007 Nemea: ripe and ready, red berries, mocha.
+162321, $16.95, QPR: 89.
9. Bodegas Lan Reserva 2004 Rioja: excellent value for a Rioja Reserva,
13.5% ABV. Accessible now, aging gracefully. +42929, $19.95, QPR: 90.
10. Gladium Tempranillo Crianza 2006 La Mancha: dense, dark, delicious,
ready by Fall 2010. Fruit and acid almost in balance. +162677, $15.95,
QPR: 90.
11. Bod Bilbainas Vina Zaco Tempranillo 2006 Rioja: MVC classic style
of Rioja flavours, 14% ABV. +146209, $14.95, QPR: 89.
12. Vinedos Neo Vinos de Fabula Vivir, Vivir 2007 Ribera del Duero:
very soft but spicy, from older vines, affordable delicacy, 13% ABV.
+162693, $12.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Stella Bella Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Margaret River, +108159, $21.95
retail.
2. Bouchard Pere et Fils Montagny 1er Cru 2007 Blanc, +653683, $27.95.
3. Domaine de la Tour Monts-Main Chablis 1er cru 2006, +159731, $32.95.
4. Beringer Third Century Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 North Coast, +47704,
$23.95.
5. Stella Bella Shiraz 2007 Margaret River, +48553, $24.95.
6. Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2003, +368910,
$27.95.
7. Leal Tanza Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +927913, $27.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Healthy Foodbooks in Review March 2010

. QUINOA 365; the everyday superfood (Whitecap, 2010, 198 pages, ISBN
978-1-55285-994-0, $29.95 CAD paper covers) is by Patricia Green and
Carolyn Hemming, both sisters into natural health foods. Log rolling
comes from academics, athletes, and other cookbook writers. To date,
there have only been a handful of small quinoa books; the grain was
mostly handled in larger books dealing with a variety of grains and
grasses such as amaranth and teff. Quinoa is known for its
digestibility, its high protein level, and having all 8 amino acids.
Here, they give us 170 or recipes which are mainly well-established
preps with quinoa added for its exceptionally high nutritive value –
and versatility. Each prep has an icon to show if the recipe is gluten-
free, "kid-approved", or vegetarian. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Upon
reviewing the recipes, I find that you can add quinoa to just about
anything.
Audience and level of use: families, those with digestive problems or
weight-loss issues.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: quinoa hummus; quinoa
tabbouleh; pimento and chickpea quinoa; broccoli goat cheese soufflé;
Greek burgers; tuna basil sprout sandwich.
The downside to this book: I'm not sure you can call a quinoa risotto
"quisotto".
The upside to this book: a good concept book, extremely useful.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

. ANNA GETTY'S EASY GREEN ORGANIC; cook well, eat well, live well
(Chronicle Books, 2010, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6668-2, $24.95 US
paper covers) is by one of the Getty heirs who also authored "I'm
Dreaming of a Green Christmas". This time, with log-rolling from
established green personnel, she has a SLO book (seasonal, local, and
organic). Here are 100 easy but tasty preps which embrace the
sustainable lifestyle. But first, there is a primer on why SLO food is
the best food. After that, whether you adopt a green style or not, the
preps are very enjoyable, with useful cook's notes. Arrangement is
typical, from starters to desserts. The listing of ingredients could
use a larger type face. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents.
There's a listing of 15 menus for dinners and the like, but
unfortunately, none of the preps are referenced to page entries. At the
back there is a resources listing, with websites, and a bibliography of
books for further reading.
Audience and level of use: families, those looking for a green
lifestyle.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chunky Tuscan bean soup with
swiss chard and pancetta; Asian chopped salad with grilled shrimp;
double lemon chicken breasts with fresh tomato basil salsa; strawberry
frozen yogurt pie with granola crunch.
The downside to this book: I am surprised that she doesn't mention
fair-trade and organic sugar, easily accessible and just as useful as
fair-traded organic coffee – which she spends a whole page on.
The upside to this book: there is a directory to organic California
wineries.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 5/10 Tasting: Cypriot Food and Wines, Toronto

The Time and Date: Friday, March 5, 2010 12 - 2:30 PM
The Event: Cyprus Wine and Food Pairing, sponsored by the Cyprus Wine
Association and the Republic of Cyprus.
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square Kitchen Event Room.
The Target Audience: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada.
The Availability/Catalogue: two of the wines will be here by August, and one
of the Commandaria will be here in April.
The Quote/Background: Christine Cushing, well known hostess of diverse TV
food programs and author of several cookbooks, prepared the lunch pairings.
As well, she did two appetizers with the Commandaria liqueur.
The Wines: Harriet Lembeck, CWE, and New York wine writer and book author
took us through the tasting. ETKO, KEO, LOEL, and SODAP comprise 86% of
Cyprus' wine exports. There are 15 indigenous grape varieties on the island.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-SODAP Kamanterena Xynisteri 2008
-SODAP Maratheftiko 2005

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 - 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ETKO Xynisteri 2008 (with 15% Chardonnay)
-Vouni Panayia Plakta Mavro & Maratheftiko 2005

*** Three Stars (85 - 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-KEO Coeur de Lion Opthalmo and Grenache Rosé NV
-Vouni Panayia Alina Xynisteri 2008
-Tsangarides Xynisteri 2007
-LOEL Maratheftiko 2008
-Tsangarides Ayios Efram Mataro, Shiraz & Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

The Food: we began with crisp Bourbon vanilla pork belly and reverse grilled
halloumi cheese on brioche with tomato relish. These were accompanied by a
Commandaria Cooler made with Bourbon. Then we moved on to the sit-down food
portion tasting menu. There was KEO Coeur de Lion Opthalmo and Grenache Rosé
NV served with roasted Commandaria pears wrapped in Serrano ham with a fried
sage leaf. This was followed by Vouni Panayia Alina Xynisteri 2008 and
Tsangarides Xynisteri 2007 served with a creamy wild mushroom Commandaria
soup, with tarragon and potato. Next up were ETKO Xynisteri 2008 and SODAP
Kamanterena Xynisteri 2008 with mixed baby greens and beets with halloumi
croutons served with citrus vinaigrette. The main course was thyme roasted
muscovy duck breast with tamari blood orange glaze and sauteed cabbage, with
LOEL Maratheftiko 2008, Tsangarides Ayios Efram Mataro, Shiraz & Cabernet
Sauvignon 2006, Vouni Panayia Plakta Mavro & Maratheftiko 2005 and SODAP
Maratheftiko 2005. The dessert was a blend of drunken kumquats with
chocolate silk mousse and phyllo honey cigars, with four Commandarias: SODAP
St. Barnabas 2005, ETKO St. Nicholas 2001, ETKO Centurion 30 Year Old Solera
and KEO St. John 1967. In my case, older was better, and I really enjoyed
the 1967 vintage.
The Downside: I had just arrived from my usual massive Friday LCBO Vintages
tasting, and I needed to re-boot my palate.
The Upside: a terrific food pairing, everything worked except the soup (too
sweet, from the added Commandaria).
The Contact Person: marketing@equistrading.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

March 22/10: Wine Writers' Circle tasting of LCBO wine pre-releases.

The Time and Date: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:30 AM to 1 PM
The Event: March tasting (part 2) of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square at Summerhill
The Target Audience: WWCC members.
The Availability/Catalogue: this was a tasting of wine pre-releases.
The Wines: Sadie Darby had set up the 35 wines in advance.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Inniskillin Chardonnay 2008 VQA Winemaker's Series Three Vineyards
13.5% alc $16.95 #130473 Vintages Release May 29,2010 Niagara Peninsula
-Flat Roof Manor Merlot 2008 14% alc #129874 $10.95 Stellenbosch S.
Africa
-Jackson-Triggs Cabernet/Merlot 2007 Delaine Vnyd VQA 13.7% alc $22.95
#989269

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 - 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon Vintners Blend 13.5%alc $17.95 +606632
VintagesCalifornia
Bodegas Vilbainas Vina Zaco Tempranillo 2006 13.5% alc #146209 $14.95
Vintages April 3 Rioja
-Argento Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2008 13.2% alc $12.95 #164764
General List July 2010 Uco Valley Mendoza Argentina
-Inniskillin Riesling 2008 VQA Winemaker's Series Two Vineyards 12%
alc $17.95 #105387 Vintages Release May 29, 2010 Niagara Peninsula
-Domaine Bassac Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 13.5% alc Certified Organic
#4001428 $12.95 Gen List Spring 2010 Cotes de Thongue France
-San Pedro 35 South Sauvignon Blanc 2009 13.5% alc LCBO # not yet
assigned $11.95 Avail early summer Chile

*** Three Stars (85 - 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Jackson-Triggs Merlot 2007 Proprietors' Grand Reserve VQA 14% alc
$19.95 #563197 Release May 15, 2010 Vintages Exclusive VQA Wine of the
Month Niagara Peninsula
-Blackstone Merlot 2007 Winemaker's Select 13.5% alc $15.95 #606327
Vintages Release March 20, 2010 California
-Sartori Valpolicella Superiore 2007 Ripasso Valdimezzo Veneto 13.5%
alc $16.95 #160374 Vintages Release April 17/10
-Farnese Negroamaro 2008 13.5% alc $8.95 #143735 Gen List Avail
10/13/09 Puglia
-Rutini Trumpeter Malbec 2007 13.5% alc $12.95 #139063 Gen List
Mendoza Argentina
-Angus The Bull Shiraz 2007 14.5% alc $18.95 #132936 Gen List Barossa
and Clare
-J.P. Chenet Sauvignon Blanc 2009 12% alc #161224 $9.95 Avail Feb
26/10 Cotes de Gascogne
-Flat Roof Manor Pinot Grigio 2009 13% alc $10.95 #27128
Stellenbosch S Africa
-Francois Lurton Les Hauts de Janeil Syrah-Grenache 2008 13% alc $12.95
#162214 Pays d'Oc
-Cusumano Neroo d'Avola 2008 14.5% alc $9.95 #143164 Avail Gen List
now. Sicily
-Vina San Pedro 35 South Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2008 14% alc LCBO
# not yet assigned $11.95 Avail early Summer Chile
-Andre Lurton Entre-Deux-Mers Chateau Bonnet Sauvignon
Blanc-Semillon-Muscadelle 2008 12% alc $13.95 LCBO # not yet assigned
Avail Gen List late Spring 2010
-Arniston Bay Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay 2009 13.5% alc $8.95 #129650 West
Cape, S. Africa

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

March 12/10 Tasting: Closson Chase and Pre-Released Wines in Ontario

The Time and Date: Friday March 12, 2010 10:30 AM to 2PM
The Event: March tasting of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square at Summerhill
The Target Audience: WWCC members.
The Availability/Catalogue: this was a tasting of pre-releases, plus (in a
double-header) a tasting of six Closson Chase wines, led by Keith Tyers.
The Quote/Background: Closson Chase has been making wines since before 2001.
Although making wine in Prince Edward County, they use both PEC and Niagara
fruit. Their impressive Chardonnay is derived from their own Aberdeen
vineyard and the Steve Kocsis vineyard - both in Niagara.
So - Closson Chase Chardonnay 2001 (mature, 13.8% ABV, not available
anymore; three stars), 2004 (definitely Burgundian in style, $75; three and
a half stars), 2005 (nutty tropicality, now drinking well, $48; four stars),
2006 (over-the-top caramel-orange, $42; four stars), and two treats from the
storied 2007 vintage - one from the Aberdeen Vineyard ($44.95, three and a
half stars), and one from the S. Kocsis Vineyard ($44.95, four stars because
of its longer finish). These Beamsville Chardonnay vines are now twenty
years old.

The Wines: Sadie had set up some 45 wines. Here were my scores --

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Taittinger 2004 Brut 2004 12.5% alc $79.95 #989905 Vintages March
20/10
- Ram's Leap Shiraz 2007 14% alc $14.95 # 165795 Release May 1/10
NSW Australia Palatine Hills Gewurztraminer Proprietors Reserve VQA
NOTL 2008 13% #101493 $13.95
- Palatine Hills Riesling Traminer VQA NOTL 2008 12.5% alc #58602
(Craft) $13.05

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 - 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine de Vedilhan 2008 Viognier 13.5% alc $12.95 #162081 Pays d'Oc
France
- Vina Lomas de Cauquenes Las Lomas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 13.5%
alc Vintages June 26/10 $12.95 #917922 Maule Valley Chile
- St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 14% alc #58263 $34.95 April 21,
2010 Coonawarra
- Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Founder's Reserve Shiraz Tempranillo
Adelaide Hills 2007 13.5% alc #159830 $22.95 Avail May 5, 2010
- Palatine Hills Chardonnay VQA NOTL 2008 13% alc #168443 (1.5L)
$17.95
- Palatine Hills Cabernet Merlot VQA 2007 #168450 $19.95 1500ml NOTL
Ontario
- Tilia Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 13.5% #163248 $12.95 April 2010 Mendoza
Argentina
- San Polo Bodega & Vinedos Auka Malbec 2008 13.9% alc #68401
$11.95 July 2010 Mendoza Argentina
- Loron & Fils Bourgogne Blanc Montvallon 12.5% alc #167155 $13.95
Release March 2010
-Castellani Chianti Docg Riserva 2005 12.5% alc # 970707 Vintages
release May 1, 2010.

*** Three Stars (85 - 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
- Bodegas Callia Callia Alta 2008 Malbec 13.8% alc Valle De Tulum, San
Juan, Argentina.
- Rafale Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 13.5% alc # 159160 $8.90 Pays d'Oc
France
- Rafale Syrah 2008 13% alc LCBO #157891 $8.90 effective March 2,
2010 Pays d'Oc
- Tenuta di Burchino L'Antico di Burchino Chianti Docg 12% alc
Biodynamic Vintages Apr 17. 2010 #160457 $15.95
- Cantine Sardus Pater Kanai Carignano del Sulcis Riserva 2005 14%
Vintages July 10/10
- Graffigna Centenario Shiraz Reserve 2007 13.5% alc #164731 $12.95
Avail June, 2010 San Juan Argentina
- Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Founder's Reserve Shiraz Cabernet 2006
Limestone Coast 14.5% alc # 107912 $22.95 Barossa Australia
- Trivento Tribu 2008 Syrah 13% alc #145292 $8.95 Argentina
- Trivento Tribu Malbec 2008 14% alc #145284 $8.95 Argentina
- Pierre Andre au Chateau de Corton Andre Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2008
12.5% alc #168427 $15.95 Release April 2010
- Little Yering 2008 13% alc #145318 $14.95 Yarra Valley Australia
- Trivento Fair Trade Malbec 2008 13.5% alc #160994 $9.95 Argentina
- Tilia Malbec 2008 13.5% alc #160945 Mendoza Argentina

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com, keith@clossonchase.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Mar 20/10 LCBO Vintages Release: some tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 20, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is guide to thousands
of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and
spirits, at www.deantudor.com (since 1995). Creator of Canada's leading wine
satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My tastings are based on MVC
(Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio).
Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The
LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers
or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calamus Estate Riesling 2007 Niagara Vinemount Ridge: very Alsatian
in tone, long lingering finish, 11.5% ABV. +158642, $16.95, QPR: 90.
2. Cave Spring Estate Bottled CSV Gewurztraminer 2008 Beamsville Bench:
good bitterish finish, slightly smoothed out. +302059, $15.95, QPR: 90.
3. Catena Alamos Viognier 2008 Mendoza: good stone fruit intensity,
best as sipper or with food. +507830, $13.95, QPR: 90.
4. Uby Colombard/Ugni Blanc 2009 Vins de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne:
excellent all round balanced fresh white that tastes like "wine" and
not apples, lemons, or other fruit. +151019, $11.95, QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Clos du Bois Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 North Coast: a steady fave
resto wine, balanced, good with food. +181685, $18.95, QPR: 90.
2. Lagarde Altas Cumbres Malbec 2008 Mendoza: MVC, vanilla tones and
fruit, long length. +146381, $12.95, QPR: 90.
3. D'Arenberg The Stump Jump Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale: delicious fruit,
New World driven of course, twist top, 14.5% ABV. +158238, $14.95, QPR:
90.
4. Kim Crawford Merlot 2007 Hawkes Bay: soft, 13.5% ABV, good merlot
intensity and length, a food wine. +680967, $19.95, QPR: 90.
5. La Clape Chateau Rouquette Sur Mer Cuvee Amarante 2007 Coteaux du
Languedoc: very good syrah hit, quality made product, and please check
out the great UPC design under the back label. +156273, $17.95, QPR:
90.
6. Cantina Valpantena Terre di Verona Ripasso Valpolicella 2006: rich,
ripe, and voluptuous. +117127, $17.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard Fume Blanc 2007 Beamsville Bench,
+68825, $30.20 retail.
2. Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2007 Twenty Mile
Bench, +56929, $40 retail.
3. Ravine Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, +173377, $24 retail.
4. Ironstone Reserve Chardonnay 2007 Sierra Foothills, +158774, $26.95.
5. Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre 2008, +744086, $22.95.
6. Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Green Label Syrah-Shiraz 2007
California, +90068, $24.95.
7. Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Ivory Label Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 California, +521021, $26.95.
8. Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Alexander Valley, +50427,
$24.95.
9. 3 Rings Shiraz 2007 Barossa, +15495, $21.95.
10. Bouchard Pere & Fils Cote de Beaune-Villages 2006, +714998, $24.95.
11. Vignamaggio Gherardino Chianti Classico 2007, +963512, $23.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com