April 19, 2010: California Wine Luncheon

 The Time and Date: Monday, April 19, 2010  11:30AM to 2:30PM
The Event: The 30th Annual Canadian tour for the California Wine Fair,
Toronto edition – celebrating with a sparkling wine reception and
luncheon.
The Venue: Fairmont Royal York
The Target Audience: wine press and agents
The Availability/Catalogue: a menu was presented (see below), and both
Domaine Chandon wines were in the show while the Gloria Ferrer Blanc de
Noirs NV was not listed in the catalogue.
The Background: The guest speaker was Karl Wente, fifth generation wine
maker of Wente Vineyards, who spoke of organics, terroir,
sustainability, and the general greenness that is taking over
California. He kept returning to the soil, for this is where it all
happens.
The Wines: At the reception we had Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs NV
(Airen Imports) plus Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs NV and their Brut
Classic NV (Charton Hobbs). Both Blancs de Noir were stunning.
I was placed at table 4 for the "Toast to California" luncheon, created
by Exec Chef David Garcelon. With me were reps from Fetzer and Sonoma-
Cutrer. We had the Fetzer Viognier 2007 (with subtle oak), a Bonterra
The McNab 2005 Mendocino (70% cabernet sauvignon, 17% petite syrah, and
13% merlot, biodynamic, $46: dense, chunky, not yet ready but with a
smooth finish despite 13.9% ABV), and three Sonoma Cutrer (Chardonnay
Les Pierres 2005, with its dynamite finish, Chardonnay Russian River
2008, almost as good, and Pinot Noir 2006, incredibly soft and
delicate).
The Food: Chef David presented a double tapas of scallops with mango
and peach salsa, and a jumbo shrimp with corn shoots and arugula. Of
course, the whites went well (although Les Pierres was heavier), while
the reds went with the duxelles crusted beef tenderloin. At the end, we
had small slices of three cheeses (brie, Manchego, and bleu l'etoile).
The Downside: cheese, to be served anytime with wine, must be room
temperature. Mine tasted as if it came straight from the fridge. It did
no justice to the wines, or to the cheeses.
The Upside: good companionship at the table.
The Contact Person: calwine@sympatico.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.

Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often, there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course, there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

CHOCOLATE; more than 50 decadent recipes (Whitecap Books, 2009, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-001-3, $16.95 CAD paper covers) is by Dominique and Cindy Duby, chef-owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets, artisanal chocolatiers. They have authored other cookbooks for Whitecap, including Crème Brulee. Both that book and this current one are part of the "Definitive Kitchen Classics" series. These are books built around a classic dish or food, limited to about 50 of the best preps. Great for gifting. The food styling is terrific, with good upclose shots of the plated product. There's the usual introductory matter about using chocolate, with a chocolate flavour matching chart and a wine matching section. They have a series of decorative techniques for making angel hair, curls, bark, sticks, teardrops and others. Preps have been arranged by style, with sections on pralines, ganaches, mousses and creams, liquid, and so forth. Try baked chocolate custard pudding, milk chocolate and ginger panna cotta, lemon macadamia praline, or even semi-frozen white chocolate foam. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. And there is more at www.dcduby.com. Quality/Price rating: 88.

 

 

AMY'S BREAD. Rev. and updated. (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 276 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-17075-5, $35 US hard covers) is by Amy Scherber and Toy Kim Dupree. It's listed here under the celebrities rather than the reissues because, although the book is built on the earlier 1996 edition, it's about 100 pages longer and has been re-cast for the modern era. Scherber founded Amy's Bread in 1992 in the Hell's Kitchen neighbourhood. Currently, she wholesales to about 300 outlets, and she has two other retail operations. Dupree was one of her original bakers, and is currently pastry chef and operator of the original location. All of her popular breads are here, along with primer information on baking processes and techniques. There are about 50 different basic preps plus variations and additions. Arrangement is by type: whole wheat breads, sourdoughs, rye breads, semolina breads, pizza and focaccia, sandwiches, brioche and sweet specialty breads. Sidebars tell us the flour protein comparison of commercially available flours is the US. She has American mail order sources, a memoirish account of her business, and lots of useful photos of techniques. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric and avoirdupois measurements, with both weights and volumes. Try maple walnut and fig bread, brioche pan loaf, an autumn pumpkin bread with pecans, or Italian semolina loaf. Visit www.amysbread.com for more recipes and ideas. Quality/Price rating: 89.

 

 

NOW EAT THIS!; 150 of America's favorite comfort foods, all under 350 calories (Ballantine Books, 2010, 247 pages, ISBN 978-0-345-52090-6, $22 US paper covers) is by award-winning (Beard) Rocco DiSpirito, who had what was probably the best "reality" restaurant show, "The Restaurant" on NBC. This is his sixth book, and most of the recipes in all of his books have some sort of Italian theme. This cookbook is one of the few being published without any log rolling: could it be that nobody wants to roll with Rocco? Here's the shtick: take some existing foods that North Americans all like to eat, such as brownies or fried chicken, and replicate the recipe with zero bad carbs, zero bad fats, zero sugar, and maximum flavour. He cuts a portion of fried coconut shrimp from 1178 calories to 178 calories. Nachos are reduced from 880 calories to 341. The arrangement is by coursed, from appetizer to dessert. His larder is revealing; these products are the keys to reduction. He calls for a pantry with cauliflower, corn starch, Dijon mustard, egg whites or egg substitutes, fresh squeezed lemons, Greek yoghurt, low-sodium and low-fat chicken broth, non-stick cooking spray, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, reduced-fat blue cheese, salsa, sprouted-grain bread, whole wheat pasta, and more. Each recipe has a nutritional table, including calories before and calories after the changeover. I am sorry to report that, and needless to say, many items tried did not have the flavours expected – because they had reduced fat and sugars. But others may disagree, and prefer this book. It is worth a try. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 80.

 

 

 

I CAN'T BELIEVE IT'S NOT FATTENING1; over 150 ridiculously easy recipes for the super busy (Broadway Books, 2010, 230 pages, ISBN 978-0-7679-3157-1, $19.99 US paper covers) is by the chef from "The Biggest Loser", who has written two other biggest loser cookbooks. She's Devin Alexander, also host of a health show on US cable television. Everything here is fast and easy. It is arranged by course or entrée, beginning with breakfast, moving on to lunch-type burgers-wraps-sandwiches, and then on to dinners of appetizers, snacks, mains, sides, salads, and desserts. Everything is timed, so a Luau London Broil is 8 minutes hands-on plus 4 to 6 hours to marinate (first thing in the morning before leaving for work), plus 10 minutes on the grill and 10 minutes to rest. Each prep has servings and nutritional data. It's just a matter of picking and choosing what kind of food you like. Most flavours come from spices and herbs, to replace that element lost in using fat-reduced products. But it was a bad idea to use pastel inks for the listing of ingredients. Maybe to discourage photocopying? Even so, it is awfully hard to read even the originals. Try pomegranate oatmeal, Mexican cocktail meatballs, presto pesto chicken, margarita chips, and French onion dip. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 80.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

April 13, 2010: Hobbs & Co Portfolio Tasting

 The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010  2PM to 7PM
The Event: Annual Portfolio Tasting 2010 for Hobbs & Co.
The Venue: Lobby, St. Lawrence Centre for the Arts
The Target Audience: customers and wine trade.
The Availability/Catalogue: wines are in the system, or in transit, or
available by private order. The catalogue of about 70 wines was well-
framed with details about each, including availability and price,
tasting notes, and the like. A model for all catalogues (agents: pay
attention – catalogues sell wine!).
The Quote/Background: wines were arranged by region, and several
principals attended (from Ontario, Portugal, Australia, and Spain).
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines. Prices are RETAIL.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Palatine Hills Estate Chardonnay 2008 VQA, $9.75.
-Palatine Hills Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 VQA, $39.95
-Quails' Gate Estate Chardonnay 2008 VQA Okanagan, $19.99
-Quails' Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 VQA Okanagan,
$44.99
-Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Riesling 2004 New South Wales, $18.50 –
nicely aged
-Domaine Francois Lichtle Gewurztraminer 2008
-Salcheto Vino Noble di Montepulciano 2005, $36.95

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Palatine Hills Estate Proprietors Reserve Merlot 2007 VQA, $39.95
-Featherstone Estate Rose 2009 VQA, $16.30
-Quails' Gate Estate Merlot 2007 VQA Okanagan, $27.70
-Clairault Wines Semillon/Sauvignon 2008 Margaret River, $24.35
-Tinpot Hut Syrah 2007, $28.95
-Franschhoek Chenin Blanc 2009, $14.55
-Juno Wine Co. Cape Maidens Shiraz 2007 Paarl, $15.95
-Hartenberg Estate Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2005, $20.55
-Herdade do Perdigao Terras de Monforte 2006, $15.95
-Bod. Barreda Torre de Barreda Amigos 2006, $23.15
-Dom. Francois Lichtle Riesling 2009, $20.99
-Dom. Emmanuel Fellot Vieilles Vignes 2009 Cote de Brouilly, $20
-Chat. Gaudrelle Sec 2006 Vouvray, $25.40
-Dom. De Bachellery Chardonnay 2009, $16.15 – aromatic
-Chat. Damase Bordeaux Superieur 2005, $21.95
-Salcheto Vino Rosso di Montepulciano 2007, $22.99
-Alpha Zeta "A" Amarone 2006 Veneto, $53.99

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Quails' Gate Estate Chenin Blanc 2008 VQA Okanagan, $19.99
-Langtry Estate Guenoc Chardonnay 2007 California, $20.85
-Valle Andino Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Chile, $12.85
-Clairault Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Margaret River, $24.35
-Swings and Roundabouts Shiraz 2007 Margaret River, $22.75.
-Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough, $21.95
-Tinpot Hut Pinto Gris 2008 Marlborough, $21.85.
-Landskroon Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2009 WO Paarl, $15.15
-Juno Wine Art House Shiraz/Mourvedre 2007 WO Paarl, $16.95
-Herdade Sao Miguel Das Missoes Riserva 2008 Alentejo, $15.95 +155796
-Herdade do Perdigao Villa Romanu Branco 2007 Alentejo, $16.25
-Herdade do Perdigao Villa Romanu Tinto 2008 Alentejo, $16.85
-Bod. Real Bonal Macabeo 2008, $15.15
-Bod. Barreda Torre de Barreda Tempranillo 2008, $17.45
-Chateau de Montmirail Cuvee de Beauchamp 2007, $32.30
-Salchetto Chianti Colli Senesi 2008, $22.99
-Streda Belvedere Chianti 2007, $18.95

 

The Food: a nice variety of cheeses and terrines, breads, with Black
River Cheese Company from PEC supplying two aged cheddars.
The Downside: I went to participate in the tasting competition, but got
scared off by the serious, sweaty tasters concentrating on their five
wines.
The Upside: Wines of South Africa (Laurel Keenan) made it out to the
show, one of her first shows back after motherhood (twice).
The Contact Person: inquiries@hobbswines.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

April 12,2010: Churchill Cellars Portfolio Tasting

The Time and Date: Monday, April 12, 2010 3PM to 7PM
The Event: 8th Annual Churchill Cellars Portfolio tasting
The Venue: St. Lawrence Centre for the Arts, Lobby
The Target Audience: wine trade and private consumers
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the General
List or Vintages. There were some wines that were available at the
Ontario winery (Peninsula Ridge) and one other from consignment.
The Quote/Background: This was the first annual portfolio tasting from
Churchill that was post-Constellation.
The Wines: 46 wines were presented, but I did not taste them all.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Pol Roger Brut Champagne Reserve NV, $58.35
-Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva Navarra 2004, $15.75 Vintages Essential
-Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve Niagara 2007, $24.75 Vintages
-Peninsula Ridge Beal Vineyards INOX Reserve Chardonnay Beamsville
Bench 2007, $18.75 Vintages May 15
-D'Arenberg The Last Ditch Viognier 2008, $19.75 Vintages

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Peninsula Ridge Merlot Niagara, $14.75
-Peninsula Ridge Shiraz Niagara, $14.75
-Peninsula Ridge Dubois Vineyards Reserve Inox Chardonnay Niagara 2006,
$16.95 Winery only
-Cru du Paradis Tradition Madiran 2006, $15.75 Vintages
-Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay, $16.25
-Viu Manent Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $15.75 Vintages
-Chateau Lagrange Grand Cru Classe St-Julien 2001, $99 Consignment
-D'Arenberg The Stump Jump Shiraz 2008, $14.74 Vintages
-D'Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne 2007, $17.75 Vintages
-D'Arenberg The Footbolt Shiraz 2006, $22.75 Vintages
-Willm Riesling Reserve Alsace 2008, $16.75 Vintages Essential

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava, $14.25
-Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Niagara, $14.75
-Peninsula Ridge INOX Chardonnay Niagara, $12.75
-Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Niagara, $12.75
-Wente Vineyards Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, $16.75
-Pisse-Dru Unoaked Chardonnay Beaujolais, $12.25
-D'Arenberg The Stump Jump Lightly Wooded Chardonnay 2008, $13.75 June
-D'Arenberg d'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache 2006, $19.75 Vintages
Essential
-Colinas de Sao Lourenco Tinto Bairrada 2006 Portugal, $13.75 Vintages
-Willm Gewurztraminer Kosher Alsace 2008, $26.75 Vintages
-Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Mosel QbA 2008, $13.75 Vintages

 

The Food: cheese, breads, salami.
The Contact Person: chris@churchillcellars.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 31/10: Bordeaux Walk-Around Tasting of CIVB wines

 The Time and Date: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 3:30 PM to 6 PM
The Event: Bordeaux Walk-Around Tasting of CIVB wines
The Venue: Le Germain Hotel, Mercer Street
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: a nice little booklet with all the relevant
data.
The Quote/Background: This was a prelude to the Bordeaux promotions at
the LCBO, April 25 to May 1.
The Wines: There were 21 wines; we just poured at our own speed. There
was only one white wine.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Pey La Tour Reserve 2007, $19.95, +925859 Vintages Essential
-Chateau des Laurets 2007 Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, $19.30, +371401

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Christan Moueix Merlot 2005, $15.95 +961227 Vintages Essentials
-Chateau Pey La Tour 2008, $13.95 +264986 LCBO
-Chateau Canada 2005, $14.90 +559468
-Chateau Saint-Germain 2007, $13.95 +645907
-Calvet Reserve des Remparts Saint-Emilion 2007, $ 17.95, +31898
-Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2004 Saint-Estephe, $29.95, +162578

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau de Courteillac 2008, $11.95, +360552 LCBO
-Chateau Puygueraud 2006, $21.80 Vintages +563155
-Chateau Puyfromage 2007, $14.95 +33605 LCBO
-Chateau Argenteyre 2005 Medoc, $24.75, +117655
-Mouton Cadet Medoc Reserve 2007, %16.95, +52274

 

The Food: lamb lollipops, crostini with mushrooms or rilettes or bean
dip, salads, skewered beef, chocolate desserts.
The Downside: the hot food came AFTER the dessert, by which time I had
destroyed my palate.
The Upside: there were no agents pressing me with wine.
The Contact Person: Alexia Guuinic <Bordeaux.ca@sopexa.com>
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

May 1/10: LCBO Vintages Release -- tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MAY 1, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cave de Beblenheim Heimberger Les Origines Vieilles Vignes Riesling
2008 Alsace: thirty year old vines, good depth to Riesling intensity,
needs food. +168955, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Domaine du Pre Baron Sauvignon Touraine 2009 Loire: very herbaceous
and crisp good dry and zesty finish, food wine. +107128, $14.95, QPR:
90.
3. E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2008: good price for detailed
sunshine, sip or food. +290296, $16.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2008 California: 15% ABV blockbuster,
some of the wine comes from 80 – 100 year old vines in Oakley.
Excellent value. +719211, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Zig Zag Zin Zinfandel 2007 Mendocino: time to light up with this
charmer, 14.5% ABV, good zin intensity right through past the finish.
+39982, $18.95, QPR: 90.
3. Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Maipo: classy and
suave cab, value priced, 14.5% ABV, snap it all up. +18721, $15.95,
QPR: 92.
4. Laurent Mabileu St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil 2008: very pronounced
cabernet franc character, developmentally positive, good finish.
+61192, $15.95, QPR: 90.
5. Domaine Montmartel Visan 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages: long enduring
finish, ready in a year. +130062, $15.95, QPR: 90.
6. Montinho Sao Miguel 2008 Alentejano Portugal: the cab shows through
in this appealing North American-styled wine. +114405, $12.95, QPR: 90.
7. Burgo Viejo Reserva 2001 Rioja: bargain priced value for this 8 year
old Rioja MVC, wood, and depth. +168823, $19.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. La Crema Chardonnay 2007 Monterey, +158683, $29.95 retail.
2. Sigalas Santorini 2008 Greece, +74781, $21.95.
3. Edmeades Zinfandel 2007 Mendocino, +105924, $25.95.
4. Pikes Eastside Shiraz 2006 Clare Valley, +77891, $22.95.
5. Rosemount Traditional Show Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit
Verdot 2005 McLaren Vale, +484097, $34.95.
6. Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Te Kahu 2007 Hawkes Bay,
+163584, $29.95. (Bordeaux blend)
7. Chateau LaRose-Trintaudon 2004 Haut-Medoc, +167437, $26.95.
8. Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, $719120, $36.95.
9. Laurus Gigondas 2006, +163113, $24.95.
10. Marchesi di Barolo Barolo 2005, +168179, $38.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 30/10: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (ViniPortugal)

 The Time and Date: Tuesday March 30, 2010 2PM to 6:30 PM
The Event: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting, sponsored by
ViniPortugal.
The Venue: Art Gallery of Ontario
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue had good detail, and the
overall dimensions were shortened. It was easier to carry.
Unfortunately, while the catalogue had price ranges for the wines, they
were not always correct. Logos, names, addresses, mini-histories of the
wineries: they were also included. 47 tables and scores of wines.
The Quote/Background: The price fault is from previous years too. It is
necessary to have correct ballpark prices, because many wine people are
looking for a bargain, or a decent price for a "great wine". Or, they
want to avoid that pricey wine. Several pourers were vague about
prices. C'est la vie…

 

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Alves de Sousa Abandonado 2007 Douro $75
-Alves de Sousa Caldas Reserva 2005 Douro
-Quinta do Cotto Grande Escolha 2007 Douro, over $30
-Julio Tassara de Bastos Dona Maria Reserva 2005 Alentejano, over $30
-Quinta do Mouro 2005 Estremoz
-Quinta de Ventozelo Branca 2008.
-Herdade dos Grous White Reserve 2008 Alentejano
-Vale d'Algares 2007 Ribatejano (Viognier), over %50

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bacalhoa Tinto da Anfora 2007, +227256, $12.95
-Bacalhoa Tinto da Anfora 2006 Grande Escolha
-Quinta da Bacalhoa Tinto 2007
-Campanhia Das Quintas Forgotten Field 2008 Tinto
-Sogrape Heredade do Peso Vinha do Monte Tinto 2008.
-Campanhia Das Quintas Farizoa Reserve 2006 Tinto
-J.Portugal Ramos Vinhos Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2007
-Adega Cartuxa 2007 Alentejo, over $30
-Adega Cartuxa 2006 Reserva Alentejo, over $30
-Quinta Vale D. Maria Douro Tinto 2007, over $30 – uses 41 indigenous
grape varieties!
-CARM Reserva 2008 Douro
-Quinta do Infantado 2007 Douro, $23.95, +95158
-Caves Transmontanas Quanta Terre Grande Reserve Branca 2008 Douro, $25
-Caves Transmontanas Quanta Terre Grande Reserve Tinto 2008 Douro, over
$30
-Enoport Almagrande 2007 Douro, $19.95
-Vale d'Algares "D" Branca 2008, over $50

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bacalhoa Catarina 2008
-Campanhia Das Quintas Prova Regia 2008 Branca $16.50
-CSL Fernao Pires 2009 Branca Estremadura, $12
-CSL Moscatel (dry) 2009 Branca Estremadura, $12
-Pocas Coros Douro White 2009, $12
-Aveleda Follies Alvarinho 2009
-Vale d'Algares Guarda Rios Branca 2008, $17.95
-Vale d'Algares "D" 2007 Tinto Tejo, over $50

 

The Food: an assortment of platters with poached salmon, cheeses,
breads, hors d'oeuvre, pork loins, salads, etc.
The Downside: there was some confusion about check in procedures, and
catalogues were not available at POS. Also, I could not get to the
fortified wines – my palate was almost dead.
The Upside: a terrific assortment of wines.
The Contact Person: william.delgado@portugalglobal.pt
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 29/10: Portuguese Winemakers' Dinner at Chiado

The Time and Date: Monday March 29, 2010  6:30PM to 11 PM
The Event: Winemakers' Dinner showcasing a wide variety of new
Portuguese wines, matched to the dishes of Chiado Restaurant.
The Venue: Chiado Restaurant
The Target Audience: wine writers and agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wineries here were looking for
agents. Ten producers were making their Ontario market debut.
Principals were in attendance.
The Quote/Background: We began with a tasting in the wine cellar, where
we could talk to the wineries and to the agents. There were about a
dozen wines available.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ETC Colheita Seleccionada 2007 Alentejo

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mateus Muxagat Tinto 2005 Douro - $35
-Paolo Laureano Jaquim Madeira Chardonnay (blend) 2006 Alentejo - $27
-Vale d'Algares Guarda Rios 2008 Tejo
-Soberanas XS 2006 Terras do Sado
-Ferreira Malaquias Vinha Dourada 2005 Douro
-Douro Family Estates Signature 2007 Douro

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Afros Loureiro 2008 Vinhos Verdes
-Herdade do Sobroso Colheita Tinto 2006 Alentejo
-Apegadas Reserva 2002 Douro
-Quinta da Cassa 2007 Douro

 

The Food: we began with Loridos Blanc de Blanc (Filipa Costa). This
great tasting sparkler joined an appetizer selection of gravlax salmon
on points, codfish cakes, rissoles of shrimp, empadas of salted pork,
and other goodies. After that, we began the wine cellar tasting. At
dinner, we could have any of the wines previously tasted. Writers and
agents and principals were strewn about, so we all had a chance at
various conversations. Wines were mixed. Someone would get up and fetch
a bottle, and then pour for us. There were five courses, slightly
larger than tapas or apps size, followed by a mixed dessert platter and
coffees (which I skipped since it was late). Here's the menu – fresh
cheese, tartar of tuna and a grouper carpaccio, pan-seared sea
scallops, grilled sardine, grilled tiger shrimp, pan-roasted salted
cod, tile fish, roasted rack of lamb, organic Ontario pheasant, and a
wild mushroom risotto.
The Downside: quite a lot of food, even if small portions.
The Upside: a chance to taste wines and foods together without
speeches.
The Contact Person:  william.delgado@portugalglobal.pt
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 26/10: Dinner at Pallucci, featuring guest speaker Alessandro Dialuce and Amethyst Wines

The Time and Date: Friday March 26, 2010  6PM to midnight
The Event: Dinner at Pallucci, featuring guest speaker Alessandro
Dialuce (Dialuce Exquisite Imports) and some of his wines via Amethyst
Wine Agency (www.amethystwine.ca).
The Venue: Pallucci (Mt. Pleasant and Davisville)
The Target Audience: consumers who like Italian foods and wines.
The Availability/Catalogue: Laura Higgins (Amethyst) worked with Chef
Neil Siomra to create a "family-style" affordable dinner, paired with
her wines matching. The two dozen people all ate at one long table.
The Quote/Background: "We did put a lot of thought and planning into
the dinner but there was a gap between our planning and everyone's
execution. Thus, why we limited the dinner to about 20 of our friends
before opening it up to a wider audience. I do hope that everyone
walked away with a positive impression and at least a glimpse of the
potential of this style of bringing together culture, food, wine and
friendship. The last thing that I want in a night out is that it is a
boring purely analytical night of pairing the elements of the wine and
food." –Laura Higgins interview.
The Wines: There were five wines available for sampling…

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Gracciano Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2006 Tuscany, $37

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sannino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco 2008 Campania, $19
-Sannino Coda di Volpe Pompeiano Bianco IGT 2008 Campania, $17
-Marenco Aldo Pirun Dolcetto di Dogliani 2008 Piedmont, $17.95 Vintages
+161729 -- organic
-Gracciano Rosso di Montepulciano 2007 Tuscany, $23

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rigoloccio Maremma Cabernet and Alicante 2006 IGT Tuscany, $30

 

The Food: we began with platters of portobellos in a creamy gorzonzola
sauce (Pompeiano; the Lacryma was an aperitif), followed by a sitdown
bowl of off-sweet tomato soup with fennel. Next came a wonderful
grilled calamari with a wild mushroom assortment and the Dolcetto, a
nice touch. There were three special pizzas, including a white (bianco)
and a mortadella. The main pasta of rigatoni, tomato, and mild sausage
came with the Rigoloccio, while another pasta of linguini, rapini, and
shrimp appeared (to be finished off with the two white wines). The meat
was a veal Milanese, sliced carrots and sauce, with the two
Montepulcianos. These were all good matches in the family-style way.
Dessert was, of course, house-made tiramisu. Espressos and cafes
completed the evening.
The Downside: the one table was too long, I could only talk to my
immediate neighbours. Given the nature of the family dining and the
communal table (plus the wine and food plated service), we could have
played musical chairs and moved around. Laura and Alessandro did
exchange table heads.
The Upside: there were short talks about Italian olive oil and pastas,
and sauces, and other food items. Laura also gave us a basket of garlic
that her mother had woven for each of us.
The Contact Person: laura.higgins@sympatico.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 26/10: Tasting of biodynamic wines from the portfolio of The Living Vine

The Time and Date: Friday March 26, 2010  4PM to 5PM
The Event: a tasting of biodynamic wines from the portfolio of The
Living Vine (Loire, Rhone, Napa, South Africa).
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina
The Target Audience: wine media and private clients, FWR patrons.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available in consignment,
most are six pack offerings (except the SA wine and the cider).
The Quote/Background: the highlight of the tasting was discovering the
first-rate Domaine Coeur de Lion Calvados Christian Drouin Cidre du
Pays d'Auge NV, a biodynamic cider from Normandy in 750 mL bottles, 3%
ABV, and retailing for $11.95 a bottle. It was so good, I ordered two
cases for my own personal use.
The Wines: the cider would rate 4 stars (over 91 points).

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Nicolas Joly Saveneires Clos de la Bergerie 2007 Loire, $59.95
-Sequillo Cellars Sequillo White 2008 Swartland South Africa, $28.95
(65% chenin blanc plus grenache blanc, viognier, and roussanne).

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Nicolas Joly Les Vieux Clos Chenin Blanc 2007 Loire, $43.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulee de Serrant 2007 Loire, $105.95
-Domaine de la Villeuve Chateauneuf du Pape 2006, $55.95
-Robert Sinskey Three Amigos Pinot Noir 2006 Napa, $54.95

 

The Food: upscale cheeses and artisanal bread.
The Downside: I got only 24 hours notice of this event, so I had to
make some shuffling around.
The Upside: good find with the cider.
The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

New wine products tasted April 2010

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH

 

1. Passion Malbec (Valentin Bianchi) 2008 Argentina, +163188, $8.95:
Typical Modal Varietal Character, with plumy tones, vanilla and other
wood organoleptics. Party wine or sip or first course as an entry wine.
Twist top, 14% ABV.

 

2. Mike Weir Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, +26 Vintages Essential, $15.95:
expect a combo of cool climate fruit (apple, pear) with some creamy and
vanilla tropicality from resolved grape sugar and wood aging. Limes on
the nose. Six months in French oak, 13% ABV. Don't overchill, best with
food.

 

3. Closson Chase has been making wines since before 2001. Although
making wine in Prince Edward County, they use both PEC and Niagara
fruit. Their impressive Chardonnay is derived from their own Aberdeen
vineyard and the Steve Kocsis vineyard – both in Niagara.
So – Closson Chase Chardonnay 2001 (mature, 13.8% ABV, not available
anymore; three stars), 2004 (definitely Burgundian in style, $75; three
and a half stars), 2005 (nutty tropicality, now drinking well, $48;
four stars), 2006 (over-the-top caramel-orange, $42; four stars), and
two treats from the storied 2007 vintage – one from the Aberdeen
Vineyard ($44.95, three and a half stars), and one from the S. Kocsis
Vineyard ($44.95, four stars because of its longer finish). These
Beamsville Chardonnay vines are now twenty years old.

 

4. Featherstone Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Niagara, +89011, Fall 2010
Vintages release (summer at the winery), $16.95: exceedingly refreshing
at this early stage, green apples and lemon zest, great with summer
first courses, but a bit nervy right now for just sipping. Some
botrytis tones (5% of crop). Hand picked, partial barrel fermentation.
250 cases, 12.5% ABV. Twist top.

 

5. Featherstone Estate Black Sheep Riesling 2009 Niagara, +80234, April
3 Vintages, $16.95: named after the sheep that eat grape leaves,
exposing the grapes to more sun. 13-yar old vines, ripe notes with 26.5
g/L natural residual sugar. Good Riesling grip. 750 cases, 10% ABV,
twist top.

 

6. Featherstone Estate Rose 2009 Niagara, +117861, May 15, 2010
Vintages, $14.95: blend of 52% cabernet franc, 39% gamay, and 9%
merlot. With some botrytis notes, this is a rocking rose, great with
veggies or fish. Light red fruit tones, residual sugar 15 g/L. 500
cases, 12.5% ABV, twist top.

 

7. Featherstone Estate Cabernet Franc 2008 Twenty Mile Bench Vineland,
Vintages April 17, 2010, $16.95: Hand picked and hand sorted, brimming
with red fruit and herbs, some coconut tones from the US oak. Great
with Mediterranean foods or anything herby. 681 cases, 12.5% ABV, twist
top.

 

8. Featherstone Estate Red Tail Merlot Twenty Mile Bench Vineland,
Vintages August 7, 2010, +131540, $19.95: Owner Louise Engel is a
falconer, and uses falconry to control nuisance grape-eating birds. Red
Tail is a hawk commonly seen over the Niagara area. Expect red fruit on
the front palate, black fruit on the mid-palate, and softness on the
finish. Merlot character dominates, of course, and this is a good
Ontario example. 570 cases, 12.5% ABV, twist top.

 

9. Tyrone Estate DeVine Shiraz 2007 Riverland South Australia, $20 from
mark@thelivingvine.ca. Organic grapes and "biodynamic principles" are
used, twist top, 14% ABV, but "produced with egg products" so it is
non-vegan. On the nose, expect spice, anise, some underbrush, and ripe
fruit tones. The taste has leathery syrah with a shiraz hit of
plumminess, toasty US oak influences (think coconut). Finish is long
and lingering. This is a rich wine with mounds of flavour, makes me
long for cheeses as a food partner.

 

10. Two Hands "The Lucky Country" Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale and Barossa,
$15.25 LCBO +145276: a charmer on the General List, with berries and
smoke, some mint, plumy, some anise, longer finish. 14 months in French
and US oaks. 14.9% ABV, twist top.

 

11. Vina Teillery Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Merlot 2006 Reserve Maipo,
$14.95 from mark@thelivingvine.ca. Made from organic grapes in Chile,
13.9% ABV, unfiltered, one year in French oak (lends it some elegance).
A real mix of red and black fruits from the CSSM blend, hard to pin
down a varietal character at this price point, but there are pronounced
spices, toast and vanilla components as per usual.

 

12. Tres Sabores Porque No? Napa Valley Rutherford, $29.95 from
mark@thelivingvine.ca. Made with organic grapes. This is a combo of 75%
zinfandel (110-year old vines), 12% cabernet sauvignon, balance of
petit verdot and petite sirah. Each grape contributes something,
although the zin dominates, with cabernet showing up on the mid-palate.
Black fruit tones, come complexity from the older US barrels. I liked
an earlier vintage at the Napa show in Toronto last fall. 14.5% ABV,
hand harvested, both US and French oaks used, 1200 cases made.

 

13. Az. Agr. Durante Le Spinee Cabernet Piave DOC 2008 Veneto, $10 US
dollars, probably more here (mark@thelivingvine.ca). This is mostly
cabernet franc with some sauvignon, as is usually the case with Piave
DOC. Organic grapes are used, very Italianate in complexity, slight
sourness in fruit-finish. Vegetative herbiness is useful for roasts and
grilled meats. Red fruits dominate palate. The tannic finish needs some
time, but the wine is useful (and youthful) at this price. 12.5% ABV.

 

14. Az. Agr. Di Tuccio Raffaele Antica Enotria Falu Rosso IGT 2007
Puglia, $15 in US money, probably more here (mark@thelivingvine.ca).
This is 100% organic Montepulciano grapes, from 15-year old vines with
mature ripe fruit. It is also unoaked, which may please some people.
Micro-oxygenation has been employed to help push the wine along without
the oak. 1250 cases.

 

15. Xabregas Shiraz 2008 Mt. Barker Western Australia, about $25, from
Amethyst Wine Agency. Uses the "metodo ganimede", which emphasizes
dynamic skin contact and post-fermentation maceration, plus some micro-
oxygenation. Extremely rich and plumy wine, but dry. Best with food,
needs another year, 15% ABV. The wine has character. Twist top.

 

16. Warner Glen Estate Frog Belly Shiraz Cabernet 2009 Margaret River,
about $25, From Amethyst Wine Agency. 80% shiraz, 20 % cabernet
sauvignon, from Western Australia. 14% ABV. Great black fruit nose,
long length, some tannins, best after a year or more. Definitely a food
wine, finishes dry.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com