Search This Blog

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

April 23, 2010: BioVino at the Green Living Show

The Time and Date: Friday, April 23, 2010  Noon – 4 PM
The Event: BioVino eco-friendly wine exposition at the Green Living
Show.
The Venue: Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition grounds.
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue was unfortunately buried in
the Green Living show catalogue, which was not conveniently available.
We were not told this until later. But most of the wines were listed,
along with availability (LCBO, consignment, etc. And most of the wines
came from the portfolio of The Living Vine (www.thelivingvine.ca).
The Quote/Background: There were continuous seminars, about 15 minutes
each, with 15 minutes off, on a variety of themes relating to
sustainable or organic or biodynamic wineries. Many speakers were top
notch, and principals: Bill Redelmeier (Southbrook), Nicolas Joly
(writer and grower), Luca Tommasini, Monty Waldin, and others. The show
went on Fridays and Saturdays.
The Wines: I did not taste all wines, and I did not taste wines that I
had already recently written about.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-DogRidge The Pup Sparkling Chardonnay 2009 McLaren Vale, $19.90
licensee (Le Sommelier)
-DogRidge Shirtfront Shiraz 2006 McLaren Vale, $36.95 licensee (Le
Sommelier)
-Peju Persephone Vineyard Zinfandel 2006 Napa, $42.70 licensee (Le
Sommelier)
-The Sadie Family Palladius 2008 Swartland South Africa [chenin blanc &
chardonnay], $79.95 The Living Vine
-The Sadie Family Columella 2007 Swartland South Africa [shiraz &
mourvedre], $99.95 The Living Vine
-Ceago Vinegarden Winemakers Blend 2005 Lake County [red], $46.95 The
Living Vine
-Robert Sinskey Vineyards Vandal Cabernet 2005 Napa, $39.95 The Living
Vine
-Chateau Monty's French White 2008 Roussillon, $19.95 The Living Vine
-Chateau Monty's French Red 2008 Roussillon, $19.95 The Living Vine
-Champagne Fleury Carte Rouge Brut Blanc de Noirs NV, $56.95 The Living
Vine
-Champagne Fleury Fleur de L'Europe NV, $56.95 The Living Vine
-Champagne Fleury Rose NV, $79.95 The Living Vine
-Domaine Barmes Buecher Gewurztraminer Rosenberg 2007 Alsace, $30.95
The Living Vine
-Collefrisio Montepulciano Uno 2007 Abruzzo, $26.95 B&W Wines
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Marcel Deiss Pinot d'Alsace 2004, +165365 Vintages ($16.16 licensee)
-DogRidge Sqaurecut Cabernet 2006 McLaren Vale, $36.95 license (Le
Sommelier)
-Organic Vignerons Viognier 2008 South Australia, +148981, $17.95
-Paxton Vineyards AAA Shiraz/Grenache 2008 McLaren Vale, $19.95 The
Living Vine
-Enoomah Bore Wine Shiraz/Cabernet 2007 South Australia, $15.95,
Vintages July 10
-Peju Persephone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa, $66.45 licensee
(Le Sommelier)
-Temple Bruer Vineyards Sparkling Pure White 2009 [chenin blanc &
viognier] Langhorne Creek, $18.95 The Living Vine
-Temple Bruer Vineyards Preservative Free Shiraz 2007 Langhorne Creek,
$22.95 The Living Vine
-Millton Vineyard Opou Chardonnay 2007 Gisborne NZ, +92478, $22.95
-Millton Vineyard Clos de Ste Anne Chardonnay 2007 Gisborne NZ,
+141549, $42.95
-Stratus White 2006 VQA Niagara, +660704, $44
-Az. Agric. Sangervasio Chianti 2008, $21.95 B&W Wines
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Paxton Vineyards Chardonnay 2008 McLaren Vale, $24.95 Living Vine
-Paxton Vineyards Quandong Shiraz McLaren Vale, $26.95
-Temple Bruer Vineyards Grenache Shiraz Viognier 2007 Langhorne Creek,
$19.95 The Living Vine
-Millton Vineyard Riverpoint Viognier 2009 Gisborne NZ, +158816, $22.95
-Richmond Plain Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Nelson NZ, $16.95 The Living Vine
-Ceago Vinegarden Del Lago Chardonnay 2007 Lake County, +145870, $25.95
The Living Vine
-Ceago Vinegarden Del Lago Merlot 2006 Lake County, $28.95 The Living
Vine
-Tollgate White 2007 VQA, $16.10 licensee Stratus Niagara
-Tollgate Red 2007 VQA, $16.10 licensee Stratus Niagara
-Domaine Barmes Buecher Riesling Rosenberg 2007 Alsace, $27.95 The
Living Vine
-Domaine Ostertag Riesling V'dE 2007 Alsace, $27.95 The Living Vine
-Collefrisio Montepulciano 2008 Abruzzo, $18.95 B&W Wines
 
The Food: really good crusty bread, unidentified, but presumably
sustainable or organic.
The Downside: no spit buckets – we had to carry our own as well as
write notes, etc.
The Upside: a chance to taste all of these wines together. It was a
good mesh with the earlier tasting at Earth.
The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.
 
 
 

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

April 21,2010: LCBO Vintages Green Evoluition wine show

The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 21, 2010   2:30 PM to 4:30PM
The Event: Vintages Presents Green Evolution: eco-friendly wine tasting
and dinner.
The Venue: Earth, 1055 Yonge Street
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available at the Vintages
event that evening, but we were allowed to taste in the afternoon. I
begged for a look at the catalogue; it had some information about the
winemakers and wineries.
The Quote/Background: the wines were a mix of sustainable, organic and
biodynamic wines (also known as SOB wines). Just about every wine was
an event exclusive,
The Wines: There were about 15 wines which were not tasted, or were
only at dinner.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Weinbach Schlossberg Cuvee St. Catherine Riesling 2008 Alsace,
$84
-Comp. de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Lanzaga 2008 Rioja, $29
-Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Chile, $18
-Paul Dolan Zinfandel 2007 Mendocino, $19
-Paul Dolan Deep Red 2006 Mendocino, $56
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Pommery Brut Royal Champagne NV, $60
-Southbrook Poetica Cabernet Merlot 2007 VQA, $60
-Yealands Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008 NZ, $19
-Dom. Weinbach Reserve Personelle Gewurztraminer 2007 Alsace, $43
-Dom. Weinbach Schlossberg Riesling 2008 Alsace, $55
-Comp. de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Pegaso 2007 Spain, $39
-Benziger Lake and Sonoma Counties Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $20
-Benziger Signaterra Pinot Noir 2007 Sonoma, $69
-Benziger Signaterra Three Blocks 2006 Sonoma, $69
-Paul Dolan Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Mendocino, $18
-Dom. Weinbach Furstentum Vendanges Tardives Gewurztraminer 2005, $134
750mL
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Pommery POP Earth Champagne, $60
-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2007 VQA, $26.95
-Southbrook Rose 2009 VQA, $18.95
-Yealands Estate Pinot Gris 2008 NZ, $19
-Yealands Estate Riesling 2009 NZ, $19
-Dom. Weinbach Pinot Blanc 2008 Reserve Alsace, $41
-Dom. Weinbach Cuvee Theo Riesling 2008 Alsace, $45
-Arboleda Carmenere 2008 Chile, $18
-Arboleda Syrah 2008 Chile, $18.95
-Paul Dolan Pinot Noir 2007 Mendocino, $34
 
The Food: bread and water
The Downside: it was my third wine tasting of the day, and I had to re-
set my palate several times throughout the day. Also, we were not given
a catalogue.
The Upside: a chance to taste a variety of sustainable wines from many
regions in one room.
The Contact Person: Calibrium International and Lifford Wine Agency.
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86.
 
 
 

Monday, May 10, 2010

Beer and Butter Tarts

Folks, there is a new Food Aggregator in town...One that wants to go
national...It's Beer and Butter Tarts, and it likes to tie up and link together
all of the food blogs in Canada...a noble idea.

Try it at Beer and Butter Tarts

It'll serve as a master list and index to all Canadian food bloggers.

Thanks, guys!!!

April 21, 2010: Discover the Wine Flavours of Argentina

The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 21, 2010  1PM to 5 PM
The Event: "Discover the Flavours of Argentina from Salta to Patagonia"
The Venue: Intercontinental Hotel, Front Street.
The Target Audience: wine agents and wine press, sommeliers.
The Availability/Catalogue: just about all of the wines are not yet
available. These 19 wineries are looking for agents in Ontario. Some
had already signed up by show time.
The Quote/Background: This was a major wine show initiative, conducted
with grace. Not a single winery or principal was pushy.
The Wines: There were more wines than were listed in the catalogue, and
some of the wines listed never made it here. There were about 8 wines
each (total of 160?). Some prices varied from those listed in the
catalogue. I did not taste all the wines. I did not report on the
sparklers. Prices are APPROXIMATE.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Carelli Malbec 2006 La Consulta-Mendoza, $78.99
-Don Cristobal Triana [Malbec/Syrah/CabSauv] 2007 Mendoza, $27.99
-Don Manuel Villafane Grand Reserva Malbec 2007 Mendoza, $25.99
-El Porvenir de Los Andes Laborum Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Cafayate-
Salta, $48.99
-Finca Las Yeguas Gozzo Viognier 2008 Perdriel Mendoza, $12.99 ORGANIC
-Las Canitas Juan Cruz Navarro Torre Reserva Malbec 2008 Valle de
Calamuchita – Cordoba, $39.99
-Mi Terruno Reserva Chardonnay 2008 Mendoza, $16.99
-Palo Alto Yllum Grand Reserve Blend [Malbec/CabSauv/Merlot] 2005
Mendoza, $47.99
-San Huberto Nina Cabernet/Malbec 2007 La Rioja, $29.99
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Carelli Gran Malbec 2006 La Consulta-Mendoza, $105
-Casa Montes Alzamora Grand Reserve Malbec 2006 San Juan, $19.99
-El Porvenir de Los Andes Laborum Malbec 2006 Cafayate-Salta, $48.99
-El Porvenir de Los Andes Laborum Torrontes 2009 Cafayate-Salta, $17.99
-Finca Las Yeguas Malbec 2007 Perdriel Mendoza, $52.99 ORGANIC
-Finca Las Yeguas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Perdriel Mendoza, $52.99
ORGANIC
-Las Canitas Familia Navarro Torre Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec
2008 Valle de Calamuchita – Cordoba, $23.99
-Mi Terruno Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Mendoza, $16.99
-Mi Terruno Mayacaba Malbec 2007 Mendoza, $47.99
-Palo Alto Yllum Malbec Reserve 2006 Mendoza, $23.99
-Palo Alto Yllum Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006 Mendoza, $23.99
-San Huberto Nina Petit Verdot 2007 La Rioja, $39.99
-Secreto Patagonico Malbec Roble 2006 Patagonia, $43.99
-Secreto Patagonico Chardonnay 2007 Patagonia, $17.99
-Tierras de Ponte Privado Malbec 2006 Tulum Valley-San Juan, $26.49
-Vasija Secreta VAS Torrontes 2008 Cafayate-Salta, $21.99
-Vasija Secreta VAS Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Cafayate-Salta, $21.99
-Vasija Secreta VAS Malbec 2007 Cafayate-Salta, $31.99
-Vasija Secreta VAS Reserva [CabSauv/Malbec/Tannat] 2007 Cafayate-
Salta, $32.99
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Don Manuel Villafane Reserva Malbec 2007 Mendoza, $17.99
-El Porvenir de Los Andes Laborum Tannat 2006 Cafayate-Salta, $48.99
-Finca Las Yeguas Gozzo Torrontes 2009 Perdriel Mendoza, $12.99 ORGANIC
-Las Piedras Pura Vid Pannunzio Giovanni Vincenzo Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Maipu Mendoza, $16.99
-Mi Terruno Limited Reserva Blend Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza, $21.99
-Sietefincas Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Tupungato-Mendoza, $15.99
-Tanino Argentina El Rosal Reserve Malbec 2006 San Rafael-Mendoza,
$17.99
-Tierras de Ponte Privado Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Tulum Valley-San
Juan, $26.49
-Secreto Patagonico Malbec 2008 Patagonia, $19.99
 
The Food: roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and/or bun, skewered meats,
lots of cheeses, tempting seafood and vegetarian one-biters. First
rate!
The Downside: interpreters slowed down pouring, but what else can you
do when there is no agent to take responsibility for telling clients
what's in the wine and how much it cost?
The Upside: two rooms, not crowded, everybody seemed to know what they
were doing.
The Contact Person: info@winespeak.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.
 
 
 
 

April 20, 2010: APVSA Tasting

 The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010   10 AM to 6 PM
The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et
spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep
the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there are often sales staff
available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also
visits New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary and Montreal
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we
already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price
advantages, either. These 60 or so wines could be made available
through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, many have been picked up
for sale in Ontario. Here were my faves, regardless of price (all
prices are ex-cellar Euros):
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Du Bicheron Gaec Rousset Macon Peronne 2008, 3.80 E
-Jean Pierre Legret Champagne Grande Reserve NV, 12.80 E
-Maison Gille Cote de Nuits-Villages 1999, 9.00 E
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. De la Chaise Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 2.85 E
-Dom. Du Parc Saint Charles Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2009 Cuvee St Charles,
2.90 E
-Jean Pierre Legret Champagne 2000, 14.00 E
-Jean Pierre Legret Champagne Cuvee Speciale Brut Blanc de Blanc NV,
11.80 E
-Maison Gille Cote de Nuits-Villages 2003, 6.00 E
-Maison Gille Cote de Nuits-Villages 2006, 5.94 E
-Maison Gille Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les Brulees" 2007, 11.78 E
-Maison Gille Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les Cailles" 2005, 18.29 E
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Les Girard du Boucou Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, 12.50 E
-Jean Pierre Legret Champagne Brut Tradition NV, $10.50 E
-Jean Pierre Legret Champagne Demi-Sec NV, 10.50 E
-Jean Pierre Legret Champagne Rose Brut NV, 11.50 E
-Moreteaux et Fils Bourgogne Chardonnay 2009, 3.30 E
-Moreteaux et Fils Bourgogne Aligot 2009, 3.20 E
-Maison Gille Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2008, 4.44 E
-Maison Gille Cote de Nuits-Villages 2004 5.97 E
-Maison Gille Cote de Nuits-Villages 2005, 6.06 E
-Maison Gille Cote de Nuits-Villages 2007, 5.94 E
-Maison Gille Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les Cailles" 2006, 18.02 E
 
The Food: none.
The Downside: selection is eclectic and bottles arrive haphazardly.
Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told this until we
got there.
The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.
There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84.
 
 
 

Saturday, May 8, 2010

April 19, 2010: 30th Annual Canadian Tour for the California Wine Fair

The Time and Date: Monday, April 19, 2010  2:30PM to 5 PM
The Event: The 30th Annual Canadian tour for the California Wine Fair
The Venue: Fairmont Royal York
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue was very well done,
informative, and with all the basic data except for prices.
The Quote/Background: There were over 120 wineries, many with over 4
wines each.
The Wines: I could not taste everything. Luckily, I had some wines
during an earlier press preview, but only about 15% of the total.
Today, because I was not impressed with the Chardonnays at that earlier
press preview, I did as many Chardonnays as I could handle. Plus some
other wines.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Galante Blackjack Pasture Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Carmel Valley, $100
-Hahn Family Meritage 2008 Central Coast
-Hess Collection Su'skol Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Napa
-Nichols Winery Merlot 2000 Paso Robles, $37.95
-Nichols Winery Chardonnay Paragon Vineyard 2001 Eden, $42.04 licensee
-Rutherford Wine Co. Scott Family Estate Chardonnay 2008 Arroyo Seco
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Andretti Chardonnay 2008 Napa Valley
-Artesa Winery Chardonnay 2007 Carneros
-Chappellet Mountain Cuvee 2007 Napa, $36.95
-Christine Andrew Viognier 2007 Lodi, $25
-Cuvaison Chardonnay S Block 2008 Napa
-Galante Red Rose Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Carmel Valley $71.20
Licensee
-Galante Rancho Calante Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Carmel Valley $44.98
licensee
-Heitz Chardonnay 2007 Napa
-Hess Collection Select Chardonnay 2008 Mendocino
-J. Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay 2008 Arroyo Seco
-Landmark Vineyards Overlook Chardonnay 2007
-Murrieta's Well Meritage White 2007 Livermore, $34.95
-Murrieta's Well Meritage Red 2007 Livermore, $34.95
-Nicols Winery Silver Fox Cabernet Sauvignon/Black Label 2000 Paso
Robles, $50
-Oakville Ranch Chardonnay 2007 Oakville
-Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California
-Rutherford Wine Co. Round Hill Chardonnay 2008 California
-Schug Carneros Chardonnay 2007
-St. Clement Chardonnay 2008 Carneros
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars KARIA Chardonnay 2007 Napa
-Stonehedge Winery Gewurztraminer 2008 Mendocino
-Truchard Vineyards Chardonnay 2008 Carneros
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Francis Ford Coppola Presents Diamond Collection Gold Label Chardonnay
2008 Monterey
-Liberty School Chardonnay 2007 California
-Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards Chardonnay 2008 Santa Barbara County, $22
-Lucas & Lewellen Viognier 2008 Santa Barbara County
-Starmont Chardonnay 2007 Napa
-Miner Family Viognier 2008 California
-Parducci Chardonnay 2008 Mendocino
-Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa
-Rutherford Wine Co. Lander Jenkins Chardonnay 2008 California
-Signorello Vineyards Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay 2008 Napa, $60
-Stag's Leap Winery Viognier 2008 Napa
-Stag's Leap Winery Chardonnay 2007 Napa
 
The Food: cheeses and breads, some pate, fruits.
The Downside: too many wines were shown – it gets bigger every year,
and the only way to go through it is by variety.
The Upside: a good show to peruse if you go for only one variety or
region. It should be a show over two days.
The Contact Person: calwine@sympatico.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.
 
 
 

Friday, May 7, 2010

April 19, 2010: California Wine Luncheon

 The Time and Date: Monday, April 19, 2010  11:30AM to 2:30PM
The Event: The 30th Annual Canadian tour for the California Wine Fair,
Toronto edition – celebrating with a sparkling wine reception and
luncheon.
The Venue: Fairmont Royal York
The Target Audience: wine press and agents
The Availability/Catalogue: a menu was presented (see below), and both
Domaine Chandon wines were in the show while the Gloria Ferrer Blanc de
Noirs NV was not listed in the catalogue.
The Background: The guest speaker was Karl Wente, fifth generation wine
maker of Wente Vineyards, who spoke of organics, terroir,
sustainability, and the general greenness that is taking over
California. He kept returning to the soil, for this is where it all
happens.
The Wines: At the reception we had Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs NV
(Airen Imports) plus Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs NV and their Brut
Classic NV (Charton Hobbs). Both Blancs de Noir were stunning.
I was placed at table 4 for the "Toast to California" luncheon, created
by Exec Chef David Garcelon. With me were reps from Fetzer and Sonoma-
Cutrer. We had the Fetzer Viognier 2007 (with subtle oak), a Bonterra
The McNab 2005 Mendocino (70% cabernet sauvignon, 17% petite syrah, and
13% merlot, biodynamic, $46: dense, chunky, not yet ready but with a
smooth finish despite 13.9% ABV), and three Sonoma Cutrer (Chardonnay
Les Pierres 2005, with its dynamite finish, Chardonnay Russian River
2008, almost as good, and Pinot Noir 2006, incredibly soft and
delicate).
The Food: Chef David presented a double tapas of scallops with mango
and peach salsa, and a jumbo shrimp with corn shoots and arugula. Of
course, the whites went well (although Les Pierres was heavier), while
the reds went with the duxelles crusted beef tenderloin. At the end, we
had small slices of three cheeses (brie, Manchego, and bleu l'etoile).
The Downside: cheese, to be served anytime with wine, must be room
temperature. Mine tasted as if it came straight from the fridge. It did
no justice to the wines, or to the cheeses.
The Upside: good companionship at the table.
The Contact Person: calwine@sympatico.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.
 
 
 
 
 

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.

Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often, there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course, there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

CHOCOLATE; more than 50 decadent recipes (Whitecap Books, 2009, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-001-3, $16.95 CAD paper covers) is by Dominique and Cindy Duby, chef-owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets, artisanal chocolatiers. They have authored other cookbooks for Whitecap, including Crème Brulee. Both that book and this current one are part of the "Definitive Kitchen Classics" series. These are books built around a classic dish or food, limited to about 50 of the best preps. Great for gifting. The food styling is terrific, with good upclose shots of the plated product. There's the usual introductory matter about using chocolate, with a chocolate flavour matching chart and a wine matching section. They have a series of decorative techniques for making angel hair, curls, bark, sticks, teardrops and others. Preps have been arranged by style, with sections on pralines, ganaches, mousses and creams, liquid, and so forth. Try baked chocolate custard pudding, milk chocolate and ginger panna cotta, lemon macadamia praline, or even semi-frozen white chocolate foam. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. And there is more at www.dcduby.com. Quality/Price rating: 88.

 

 

AMY'S BREAD. Rev. and updated. (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 276 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-17075-5, $35 US hard covers) is by Amy Scherber and Toy Kim Dupree. It's listed here under the celebrities rather than the reissues because, although the book is built on the earlier 1996 edition, it's about 100 pages longer and has been re-cast for the modern era. Scherber founded Amy's Bread in 1992 in the Hell's Kitchen neighbourhood. Currently, she wholesales to about 300 outlets, and she has two other retail operations. Dupree was one of her original bakers, and is currently pastry chef and operator of the original location. All of her popular breads are here, along with primer information on baking processes and techniques. There are about 50 different basic preps plus variations and additions. Arrangement is by type: whole wheat breads, sourdoughs, rye breads, semolina breads, pizza and focaccia, sandwiches, brioche and sweet specialty breads. Sidebars tell us the flour protein comparison of commercially available flours is the US. She has American mail order sources, a memoirish account of her business, and lots of useful photos of techniques. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric and avoirdupois measurements, with both weights and volumes. Try maple walnut and fig bread, brioche pan loaf, an autumn pumpkin bread with pecans, or Italian semolina loaf. Visit www.amysbread.com for more recipes and ideas. Quality/Price rating: 89.

 

 

NOW EAT THIS!; 150 of America's favorite comfort foods, all under 350 calories (Ballantine Books, 2010, 247 pages, ISBN 978-0-345-52090-6, $22 US paper covers) is by award-winning (Beard) Rocco DiSpirito, who had what was probably the best "reality" restaurant show, "The Restaurant" on NBC. This is his sixth book, and most of the recipes in all of his books have some sort of Italian theme. This cookbook is one of the few being published without any log rolling: could it be that nobody wants to roll with Rocco? Here's the shtick: take some existing foods that North Americans all like to eat, such as brownies or fried chicken, and replicate the recipe with zero bad carbs, zero bad fats, zero sugar, and maximum flavour. He cuts a portion of fried coconut shrimp from 1178 calories to 178 calories. Nachos are reduced from 880 calories to 341. The arrangement is by coursed, from appetizer to dessert. His larder is revealing; these products are the keys to reduction. He calls for a pantry with cauliflower, corn starch, Dijon mustard, egg whites or egg substitutes, fresh squeezed lemons, Greek yoghurt, low-sodium and low-fat chicken broth, non-stick cooking spray, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, reduced-fat blue cheese, salsa, sprouted-grain bread, whole wheat pasta, and more. Each recipe has a nutritional table, including calories before and calories after the changeover. I am sorry to report that, and needless to say, many items tried did not have the flavours expected – because they had reduced fat and sugars. But others may disagree, and prefer this book. It is worth a try. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 80.

 

 

 

I CAN'T BELIEVE IT'S NOT FATTENING1; over 150 ridiculously easy recipes for the super busy (Broadway Books, 2010, 230 pages, ISBN 978-0-7679-3157-1, $19.99 US paper covers) is by the chef from "The Biggest Loser", who has written two other biggest loser cookbooks. She's Devin Alexander, also host of a health show on US cable television. Everything here is fast and easy. It is arranged by course or entrée, beginning with breakfast, moving on to lunch-type burgers-wraps-sandwiches, and then on to dinners of appetizers, snacks, mains, sides, salads, and desserts. Everything is timed, so a Luau London Broil is 8 minutes hands-on plus 4 to 6 hours to marinate (first thing in the morning before leaving for work), plus 10 minutes on the grill and 10 minutes to rest. Each prep has servings and nutritional data. It's just a matter of picking and choosing what kind of food you like. Most flavours come from spices and herbs, to replace that element lost in using fat-reduced products. But it was a bad idea to use pastel inks for the listing of ingredients. Maybe to discourage photocopying? Even so, it is awfully hard to read even the originals. Try pomegranate oatmeal, Mexican cocktail meatballs, presto pesto chicken, margarita chips, and French onion dip. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 80.

 

 
 

April 13, 2010: Hobbs & Co Portfolio Tasting

 The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010  2PM to 7PM
The Event: Annual Portfolio Tasting 2010 for Hobbs & Co.
The Venue: Lobby, St. Lawrence Centre for the Arts
The Target Audience: customers and wine trade.
The Availability/Catalogue: wines are in the system, or in transit, or
available by private order. The catalogue of about 70 wines was well-
framed with details about each, including availability and price,
tasting notes, and the like. A model for all catalogues (agents: pay
attention – catalogues sell wine!).
The Quote/Background: wines were arranged by region, and several
principals attended (from Ontario, Portugal, Australia, and Spain).
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines. Prices are RETAIL.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Palatine Hills Estate Chardonnay 2008 VQA, $9.75.
-Palatine Hills Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 VQA, $39.95
-Quails' Gate Estate Chardonnay 2008 VQA Okanagan, $19.99
-Quails' Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 VQA Okanagan,
$44.99
-Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Riesling 2004 New South Wales, $18.50 –
nicely aged
-Domaine Francois Lichtle Gewurztraminer 2008
-Salcheto Vino Noble di Montepulciano 2005, $36.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Palatine Hills Estate Proprietors Reserve Merlot 2007 VQA, $39.95
-Featherstone Estate Rose 2009 VQA, $16.30
-Quails' Gate Estate Merlot 2007 VQA Okanagan, $27.70
-Clairault Wines Semillon/Sauvignon 2008 Margaret River, $24.35
-Tinpot Hut Syrah 2007, $28.95
-Franschhoek Chenin Blanc 2009, $14.55
-Juno Wine Co. Cape Maidens Shiraz 2007 Paarl, $15.95
-Hartenberg Estate Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2005, $20.55
-Herdade do Perdigao Terras de Monforte 2006, $15.95
-Bod. Barreda Torre de Barreda Amigos 2006, $23.15
-Dom. Francois Lichtle Riesling 2009, $20.99
-Dom. Emmanuel Fellot Vieilles Vignes 2009 Cote de Brouilly, $20
-Chat. Gaudrelle Sec 2006 Vouvray, $25.40
-Dom. De Bachellery Chardonnay 2009, $16.15 – aromatic
-Chat. Damase Bordeaux Superieur 2005, $21.95
-Salcheto Vino Rosso di Montepulciano 2007, $22.99
-Alpha Zeta "A" Amarone 2006 Veneto, $53.99
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Quails' Gate Estate Chenin Blanc 2008 VQA Okanagan, $19.99
-Langtry Estate Guenoc Chardonnay 2007 California, $20.85
-Valle Andino Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Chile, $12.85
-Clairault Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Margaret River, $24.35
-Swings and Roundabouts Shiraz 2007 Margaret River, $22.75.
-Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough, $21.95
-Tinpot Hut Pinto Gris 2008 Marlborough, $21.85.
-Landskroon Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2009 WO Paarl, $15.15
-Juno Wine Art House Shiraz/Mourvedre 2007 WO Paarl, $16.95
-Herdade Sao Miguel Das Missoes Riserva 2008 Alentejo, $15.95 +155796
-Herdade do Perdigao Villa Romanu Branco 2007 Alentejo, $16.25
-Herdade do Perdigao Villa Romanu Tinto 2008 Alentejo, $16.85
-Bod. Real Bonal Macabeo 2008, $15.15
-Bod. Barreda Torre de Barreda Tempranillo 2008, $17.45
-Chateau de Montmirail Cuvee de Beauchamp 2007, $32.30
-Salchetto Chianti Colli Senesi 2008, $22.99
-Streda Belvedere Chianti 2007, $18.95
 
The Food: a nice variety of cheeses and terrines, breads, with Black
River Cheese Company from PEC supplying two aged cheddars.
The Downside: I went to participate in the tasting competition, but got
scared off by the serious, sweaty tasters concentrating on their five
wines.
The Upside: Wines of South Africa (Laurel Keenan) made it out to the
show, one of her first shows back after motherhood (twice).
The Contact Person: inquiries@hobbswines.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.
 
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Monday, May 3, 2010

April 12,2010: Churchill Cellars Portfolio Tasting

The Time and Date: Monday, April 12, 2010 3PM to 7PM
The Event: 8th Annual Churchill Cellars Portfolio tasting
The Venue: St. Lawrence Centre for the Arts, Lobby
The Target Audience: wine trade and private consumers
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the General
List or Vintages. There were some wines that were available at the
Ontario winery (Peninsula Ridge) and one other from consignment.
The Quote/Background: This was the first annual portfolio tasting from
Churchill that was post-Constellation.
The Wines: 46 wines were presented, but I did not taste them all.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Pol Roger Brut Champagne Reserve NV, $58.35
-Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva Navarra 2004, $15.75 Vintages Essential
-Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve Niagara 2007, $24.75 Vintages
-Peninsula Ridge Beal Vineyards INOX Reserve Chardonnay Beamsville
Bench 2007, $18.75 Vintages May 15
-D'Arenberg The Last Ditch Viognier 2008, $19.75 Vintages
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Peninsula Ridge Merlot Niagara, $14.75
-Peninsula Ridge Shiraz Niagara, $14.75
-Peninsula Ridge Dubois Vineyards Reserve Inox Chardonnay Niagara 2006,
$16.95 Winery only
-Cru du Paradis Tradition Madiran 2006, $15.75 Vintages
-Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay, $16.25
-Viu Manent Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $15.75 Vintages
-Chateau Lagrange Grand Cru Classe St-Julien 2001, $99 Consignment
-D'Arenberg The Stump Jump Shiraz 2008, $14.74 Vintages
-D'Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne 2007, $17.75 Vintages
-D'Arenberg The Footbolt Shiraz 2006, $22.75 Vintages
-Willm Riesling Reserve Alsace 2008, $16.75 Vintages Essential
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava, $14.25
-Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Niagara, $14.75
-Peninsula Ridge INOX Chardonnay Niagara, $12.75
-Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Niagara, $12.75
-Wente Vineyards Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, $16.75
-Pisse-Dru Unoaked Chardonnay Beaujolais, $12.25
-D'Arenberg The Stump Jump Lightly Wooded Chardonnay 2008, $13.75 June
-D'Arenberg d'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache 2006, $19.75 Vintages
Essential
-Colinas de Sao Lourenco Tinto Bairrada 2006 Portugal, $13.75 Vintages
-Willm Gewurztraminer Kosher Alsace 2008, $26.75 Vintages
-Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Mosel QbA 2008, $13.75 Vintages
 
The Food: cheese, breads, salami.
The Contact Person: chris@churchillcellars.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86.
 
 

Sunday, May 2, 2010

March 31/10: Bordeaux Walk-Around Tasting of CIVB wines

 The Time and Date: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 3:30 PM to 6 PM
The Event: Bordeaux Walk-Around Tasting of CIVB wines
The Venue: Le Germain Hotel, Mercer Street
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: a nice little booklet with all the relevant
data.
The Quote/Background: This was a prelude to the Bordeaux promotions at
the LCBO, April 25 to May 1.
The Wines: There were 21 wines; we just poured at our own speed. There
was only one white wine.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Pey La Tour Reserve 2007, $19.95, +925859 Vintages Essential
-Chateau des Laurets 2007 Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, $19.30, +371401
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Christan Moueix Merlot 2005, $15.95 +961227 Vintages Essentials
-Chateau Pey La Tour 2008, $13.95 +264986 LCBO
-Chateau Canada 2005, $14.90 +559468
-Chateau Saint-Germain 2007, $13.95 +645907
-Calvet Reserve des Remparts Saint-Emilion 2007, $ 17.95, +31898
-Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2004 Saint-Estephe, $29.95, +162578
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau de Courteillac 2008, $11.95, +360552 LCBO
-Chateau Puygueraud 2006, $21.80 Vintages +563155
-Chateau Puyfromage 2007, $14.95 +33605 LCBO
-Chateau Argenteyre 2005 Medoc, $24.75, +117655
-Mouton Cadet Medoc Reserve 2007, %16.95, +52274
 
The Food: lamb lollipops, crostini with mushrooms or rilettes or bean
dip, salads, skewered beef, chocolate desserts.
The Downside: the hot food came AFTER the dessert, by which time I had
destroyed my palate.
The Upside: there were no agents pressing me with wine.
The Contact Person: Alexia Guuinic <Bordeaux.ca@sopexa.com>
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.