New and Different Wines Tasted in June, 2010

 

1. Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2009 Puklus Cellars Hungary (+46508, $14.95
retail, 750 mL, Vintages): related to Muscat Blanc, from older vines,
done up in Late Harvest style, with that peachy complexity, medium-
bodied, but with lemons and pineapple acidity on the longer finish.
Floral aromatics. 13% ABV. Serve with later courses (fruity mains,
salads, cheeses, off-dry desserts).

 

2. Puklus Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2003, +980805 Vintages Reorder for
July 10, 2010 release, $23.95 for 500 mL bottle, 13% ABV. It is intense
and terrific value, with a nose suggesting honey, yeast, dried fruit
and floral tones (especially apricots and peaches). Medium sweet, long
length, racy malic acid finish, nice and brisk. Get it while you can.

 

3. Colio has unleashed a new series, a sort-of-but-not-quite
counterpart to the Girls Night Out wines. This one is the "Lake &
River" series, with a canoe on the front label. The colour of the canoe
changes with the internal blend. So far, there are about five of them,
all with uniform bottlings and labels, twist tops, and regular ABV,
such as 11.5% or 12.5%. They are quite attractive, and should at least
appeal to those who don't want to be thought of as "girls". The
appellation is straightup Ontario, but they are VQA wines. The Rose
2009 (made with villard noir, pinot noir, and vidal) has no LCBO
number, and you won't find it in stores – yet. So it must be only at
the Colio stores. Expect cherries and some bubblegum snap. The Lake &
River Moonlight White 2009 (+183095) is a mélange of chardonnay and
gewurztraminer (29.5%), melons and mangos plus aromatics dominate. The
Chardonnay 2009 (+184135) is also MVC and available. The Lake & River
River Rock Red 2008 (its name should have been Rock River Red, to avoid
the double "River" back-to-back: hey guys, run these things pass me
first, no charge) has both cabernets and merlot plus shiraz (+183103).
Expect plumminess and a light oak finish. The Cabernet Franc 2008
(+183079) has more snap and varietal character to it. Priced at an
affordable $10.95 each. The back label says "Contains Sulphites" but in
a much larger typeface than we normally see with Ontario wines.

 

4. Stoney Ridge has a new release program. Here are some highlights –

 

- Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Peninsula Pinot Grigio 2009: it may say
pinot grigio (because that is the more popular name), but the style is
pinot gris – high melon aromatics and minerals, some actual body that
you can feel, and twist top to hold it all in. Stainless steel, 12%
ABV, $17 at winery.

 

- Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Lakeshore Excellence Pinot Gris 2009: nice
full body, even more so than the misnamed grigio above, some elements
of stone and orchard fruits, zesty citrus on the finish. Excellence is
a new tier for Stoney Ridge, with wines priced about $6 higher for
higher quality and restricted terroir. 100 cases, 12.8% ABV, stainless
steel, $23 at the winery.

 

Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Peninsula Sauvignon Blanc 2009: fresh,
invigorating, zesty in an MVC field, nettles, gooseberry, herbs, cut
grass, and the like. 11.6% ABV, $17 at the winery.

 

Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Lakeshore Excellence Sauvignon Blanc 2009:
even more stressed sauvignon blanc with minerality and herbs, from
limited terroir. Gold at All Canadian Wine 2010. 100 cases, 12.8% ABV,
$23 at winery.

 

Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Peninsula Warren Classic Chardonnay 2008: as
far as I can tell, this is the former Bench Chardonnay, which produced
one of the finest chardonnays in 1995, 2004, and other years. It has
always been a fave of mine, even being a house white for the 2004. As
the former Bench, it is indeed a Warren Classic – nutty, vanilla, some
cloves from toasted oak, creamy. Oak aged in various bottles, 13.9%,
410 cases, $15 at winery.

 

Stoney Ridge VQA 20 Mile Bench Founder's Signature Collection
Charlotte's Chardonnay 2008: named after Founder Jim Warren's wife,
this wine is a classic un-oaked chardonnay full of plump fruit, with
plenty of apples, pears, and tropical fruits. Best in summer? 13.1%
ABV, 500 cases, $15 at winery.

 

Stoney Ridge VQA 20 Mile Bench Cabernet Merlot 2008: almost a Meritage,
with both cabs – 40% cab franc, 20% cab sauvignon, and 40% merlot. Aged
in small barrels. Expect a lot of red and black currants in the fruit,
still needs time to evolve. 13.7% ABV, 245 cases, $17 at the winery.

 

Stoney Ridge VQA 20 Mile Bench Warren Classic Pinot Noir 2007: another
straightforward but affordable toasty Burgundy-like pinot noir, with
the Ontario cranberry nose and slightly sour cherry mid-palate. Plenty
of red fruit here, still needs a year or more of cellaring. 12.8% ABV,
$15 at winery.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

July 10/10: LCBO Vintages Releases, tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 10, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnay 2008: all-purpose chard that shouts
California. 13.8% ABV. +989152, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Simonsig Sunbird Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Western Cape: herby
complexity, 13% ABV, twist top and value. +354746, $12.95, QPR: 90.
3. Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: typical MVC, good body, low
bitterish finish. +169748, $17.95, QPR: 90.
4. Domaine de la Pouvraie Vouvray 2008: off-dry on mid-palate,
lingering honeyed tones. Great price for quality chenin blanc. +169706,
$14.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot 2007 Paso Robles: wood is evident, good
concentration of fruit, soft finish. +27516, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Sheeps Back Old Vine Shiraz 2003 Barossa Valley: an older shiraz
treat from Oz, 14.3% ABV, stewed plums and rich. +165902, $19.95, QPR:
90.
3. Temple Bruer Enoomah Bore Shiraz/Cabernet 2007 South Australia: 14%
ABV, organic, vegan friendly (only bentonite used in filtering).
+165894, $15.95, QPR: 90.
4. Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier 2009 Western
Cape: delicious blend, 2/3 syrah, 14.5% ABV, comes together nicely for
BBQ. +626333, $13.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau Le Monteil D'Arsac Portraits 2006 Haut-Medoc: typical MVC,
best of the lot being released today, lay down a few. +171132, $17.95,
QPR: 90.
6. Balma Venise Beaumes de Venise 2008: another delicious blend, this
time 60% Grenache, rest syrah, yet more syrah in taste and tone. 14%
ABV. The LCBO tasting note errs in referencing Shiraz instead of Syrah.
+652206, $13.95, QPR: 90.
7. Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Rouge Costieres de Nimes 2008: yet
another delicious blend, this time 45% syrah, 25% Grenache, 15%
mourvedre, and 15% carignan. Value priced BBQ. +177097, $13.95, QPR:
90.
8. Di Majo Norante Sangiovese 2008 IGT Terra Degli Osci Molise: all of
the sangiovese tones are there, great quality at this price level.
+591974, $12.95, QPR: 90.
9. Terre di Giumara Nero D'Avola 2007 Sicily: a sure winner, given the
price. Needs more time to resolve some tart tannins. +174722, $11.95,
QPR: 89.
10. Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006: it seems like the LCBO is
working hard to find quality values. With two years in large oak, this
blend of sangiovese-cabernet-merlot should appeal because of its
typical MVC. +111641, $15, QPR: 89.
11. Bodegas La Crianza 2005 Rioja: good price for some Rioja MVC, light
enough for summer. +166538, $15.95, QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Artesa Chardonnay 2007 Carneros, +657585, $21.95 retail.
2. Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +26682, $44.95
3. Domaine des Malandes Vieilles Vignes Montmains Chablis Premier Cru
2007, +16626, $26.95.
4. Roland Tissier et Fils Sancerre 2008, +108514, $21.95.
5. Phelps Creek Becky's Cuvee Pinot Noir 2007 Columbia Gorge Oregon,
+181438, $26.95.
6. Hollick Coonawarra Red 2005, +165936, $22.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

June 8, 2010: Tasting Stratus Wines from Niagara

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 8, 2010, 11 AM to 3 PM
The Event: Stratus Portfolio Tasting
The Venue: ARTCondos, Dovercourt and Sudbury
The Target Audience: wine media.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is at the winery.
The Quote/Background: Most of the wines are from 2007, with some 2008
icewines and some library wines. Winemaker J-L Groulx led the tasting,
with additional commentary by Charles Baker. J-L discussed the 2007
vintage in general, as well as modern vintages at Stratus.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Stratus Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $TBD, 2011 release
-Stratus Red 2007, $44  Vintages Winter 2010
-Stratus Chardonnay 2007, $38
-Stratus White 2007, $44 Vintages Winter 2010
-Stratus Riesling Icewine 2008, $40 200mL Vintages Fall 2010

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Stratus Merlot 2007, $42
-Stratus Cabernet Franc 2007, $38 Vintages Fall 2010
-Stratus Petit Verdot 2007, $42  2011 release
-Stratus Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $38
-Stratus Semillon Icewine 2008, $40 200 mL
-Stratus Icewine White 2008, $40 200mL 50/50 mix of Riesling and Sem

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Stratus Gamay 2007, $29
-Stratus Malbec 2007, $36

 

The Food: lunch was prepared by Jamie Kennedy Catering. The fish course
had a sampling of four Ontario white fleshed fish (perch, pickerel,
trout, whitefish): terrine, smoked, cured, and a cooked fish cake. Of
course, the Stratus White 2004 and 2006 were superb accompaniments
here, with enough body and age evolution to stand up to the smoke and
the green salad. The Cumbrae lamb course was a navarin of lamb plus a
large chop with black walnut pesto, excellently done and plated.
Stratus Red 2004 and 2006 came with it, with the 2004 being preferred
by me with its Bordeaux-like complexity and aging. Rhubarb came next,
with panna cotta and a biscuit – it went with the Stratus Red Icewine
2008 (a blend of both the cabs and syrah), as a sort of yin and yang of
sweet-tart flavours.
The Downside: it was a cavernous space, and the chairs at lunch were
too high and backless.
The Upside: the lunch was catered by Jamie Kennedy, who came and spoke
to the food.
The Contact Person: suzannejanke@stratuswines.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

June 2, 2010: Tasting Merry Edward's Wines from Sonoma

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 2, 2010
The Event: Portfolio tasting with Merry Edwards of Sonoma Valley.
The Venue: Vertical Restaurant, First Canadian Place
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: all current vintages are available through
the agent, Stem Wine Group (www.stemwinegroup.com)
The Quote/Background: Merry Edwards has been a winemaker for many
wineries over the years (she's gone through 37 vintages). Now she has
her own, with labels designed by David Lance Goines who also does
Ravenwood and Chez Panisse. She's quite deft with her pinots, using a
variety of clones (Pommard, Dijon 777, Dijon 828, 667, 1115, and her
own California selection UCD37. Complexity is introduced by the art of
blending. The Russian River Valley provides most of her fruit, and both
she and her partner Ken Coopersmith have their own estate vineyards.
Basically, Ken grows grapes, Merry makes wine. Everything is
sustainably grown, with organic components such as the compost. The
team specializes in old vines and detailed water management programs.
They make a juicy white wine, Sauvignon Blanc, from the musque variety,
with light toast barrel fermenting. This started as a dinner wine for
their parties, but it now produces 8,000 cases.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007, $79.99
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007 Coopersmith, $94.99
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007 Meredith Estate,
$94.99 – best wine of the current releases
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2003 Meredith Estate,
N/A
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2003, N/A

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2009, $59.99 –
14.1% ABV
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2007, $67.99
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007 Olivet Lane, $99.99

 

The Food: frisee salad and asparagus; spaghetti guitarra with veggies,
cheese, and pork; grilled duck breast with grilled veggies; biscotti
and coffees. We had a selection of pinot noirs from the tasting.
The Downside: there was a threat of rain amongst the heat.
The Upside: many chances to talk with Merry Edwards and her partner Ken
Coopersmith.
The Contact Person: robert@stemwinegroup.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Food and Drink Books for July 2010

THE MEDITERRANEAN DIABETES COOKBOOK (American Diabetes association,
2010; distr. McGraw-Hill Ryerson, 296 pages, ISBN 978-1-58-040312-2,
$19.95 US paper covers) is by Amy Ritolo, author of other cookbooks
such as "Arabian Delights" and "Nile Style". Here she takes a run at
Mediterranean food in general. Actually, the Med Diet is perfectly
attuned to the needs of diabetics, so for the most [part, one need go
no further. In general, Ritolo has eliminated fats and sugars while
augmenting quality proteins, whole grains, and legumes. The recipes
here are quick and easy, with a Mediterranean pantry. Main foods
embrace red tomatoes, eggplant, fresh herbs, EVOO, whole grains and
legumes, and tahini, along with fish. Med cuisine is a way of life. She
has meal planners, seasonal menus (with eight or so for each season
along with page references to the prep), and extensive notes for the
pantry. Arrangement is by course, with the obvious small plates upfront
first. Cook's notes provide cultural contexts and helpful hints, and
cross-reference the prep to other preps in the book (along with the
relevant page references). There are metric nutritional data.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents. Preps are listed by both
English title and the indigenous language (e.g., "fagioli
al'uccelletto" is stewed cannellini beans with tomatoes and sage).
There's a chapter on making your own flavour enhancers (herbes de
Provence, harissa, tahini, gremolata). The indexes are by principal
ingredient and by origin or country.
Audience and level of use: diabetics or those looking for SLO Med diet
books.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: khubz matloua (Algerian
skillet bread); pissaladiere; pizza alla Siciliana; melanzane marinate;
eggplant croquettes.
The downside to this book: no metric equivalent tables.
The upside to this book: easy to use, good layout.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

4. HAY FEVER; how chasing a dream on a Vermont farm changed my life
(John Wiley, 2010, 290 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-39833-3, $24.95 US hard
covers) is by Angela Miller, a literary agent and the owner of Consider
Bardwell Farm in Vermont. She is a multiple award winner from the
American Cheese Society. This is her story, as a memoir, of getting
away from it all in the city and moving to the rustic countryside – and
being a farmer. Ralph Gardner Jr. is the focusing writer. "Angela
Miller and her husband set their sites on a charming nineteenth-century
farm in Vermont" – and apparently took the publisher's spell-check with
them: "sites" ? They started with a herd of goats and began producing
artisanal cheeses, now found at The French Laundry and Daniel and Per
Se. It's a good book, detailing the efforts of a cheese maker.  As with
most memoirs of this sort, there is a fair bit of humour (which makes
it more readable). Additionally, there are answers to the question: how
do you run a New York-based business AND run a cheese making operation?
Secret – she's not the only person on the farm (there are at least nine
named others). It's a big operation, taking time and money. At the back
of the book, there are eight recipes. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: memoir lovers, cheese fanciers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "Just to get certified in 2004 cost
us hundreds of thousands of dollars in equipment and construction.
We've spent hundreds of thousands more since then."
The downside to this book: it is also a page turner in that there is a
larger typeface and lots of leading. This makes the book seem longer
than it is. I'd also like to see some more pictures beyond the two on
the cover.
The upside to this book: there is an index, which makes it very useful
to dig out data and facts such as on the cheese making process.
Quality/Price Rating: 83.

 

5. FOOD PRESENTATION SECRETS (Firefly Books, 2010, 176 pages, ISBN 978-
1-55407-491-4, $29.95 CAD hard covers) is by two Brits, Cara Hobday
(food journalist and cookbook author) and Jo Denbury (freelance
writer). There are over 75 sweet and savoury edible garnishing ideas
here, with recipes. Techniques, tools, ingredients and designs are all
explained in a comprehensive fashion, illustrated with step-by-step
photos on prepping and assembling the garnish. Each is graded by level
of difficulty. There are useful tips and checklists along the way, and
there are sidebars to indicate the best ways to use garnishes. Both
authors contribute a series of generic recipes and a kitchen schedule
planner. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of weight and
measure equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks who want to learn garnishing.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: potato matchsticks; caramel
dipped fruit; fruit fans; rolled green towers; vegetable bundles; tuile
shapes; cucumber lotus.
The downside to this book: I would have liked a slightly large type
font.
The upside to this book: there's a section on edible flowers, shoots
and leaves.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

6. PROFESSIONAL GARDE MANGER; a comprehensive guide to cold food
preparation (John Wiley & Sons, 2011 [sic], 780 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-
17996-3, $100US hard covers) is by Lou Sackett and Jaclyn Pestka, with
consulting author Wayne Gisslen. They are all teachers, and this is, of
course, a text book for professional chefs. Garde Manger is the art and
technique of preparing a full range of cold dishes for buffet, banquet,
and catering events. This includes hors d'oeuvre, appetizers, terrines
and pates, and charcuterie. The 375 recipes (plus 400 variations)
included in this book take into account the global cuisine of today.
Such material includes microgreens, international sandwiches, brining
ratios, fermented sausages, artisanal US cheeses, tapas tasting menus,
savoury sorbets, and the raw bar. The book is meant for both students
and practitioners. The opening sections deal with history of banquets,
the needed skills, careers, safe food handling techniques, the
flavours, colours and textures of food for the table. Cost controls and
price establishment are also important here. Recipe sections include
cold sauces, soups, salads (flavour balances), sandwiches, curing and
preserving meats and fish, cheeses (including presentations). There are
also chapters with chaud-froid, aspics, gelees, marinades, condiments,
and garnishes. Decorating and plating are also included, especially
platter layouts and design. The book is well-stitched, so it will put
up with much wear and tear. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in both metric and US avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of equivalents. There is also a bibliography and a glossary. Good
layout and detailed procedures, plus plenty of colours and use of
photos and drawings for techniques.
Audience and level of use: students and professionals, the home cook
who does a lot of cold dishes.
Some interesting or unusual facts: plating is important for cold food
since there are only visual stimuli. Purchasers of this book can get
access to a website for more recipes and FAQs.
The downside to this book: a heavy book, weight wise.
The upside to this book: most recipes are doable at home because they
are for small portions.
Quality/Price Rating: 88

 

 

 

7. SIMPLY SPECTACULAR CAKES; beautiful designs for irresistible cakes
and cookies (Clarkson Potter, 2010, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-46455-2,
$30 US hard covers) is by UK pastry chef Peggy Porschen, author of
"Pretty Party Cakes". Here she moves up a notch, from "pretty" to
"spectacular". For these she has a series of templates at the back for
monograms and positioning dowels and layouts. There's a techniques
section, tools listing, colours used, a glossary, a list of suppliers
(which amazingly enough includes someone in Richmond Hill, ON), and a
quantity guide. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
If you are stuck for anything, visit www.peggyporschen.com.
Audience and level of use: for the adventuresome home cook or anyone
who wants to project whimsy.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the book was originally
published in 2009 in the UK as "Cake Chic", as a trove of recipes for
upscale designer-crafted cakes. Porschen also throws in some cookies
and mini cakes (petit fours?). Try making ballerina pumps cookies, or
little black dress cookies, cameo cakes, cupcakes in bloom, or even
couture hatboxes.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

8. THE SOMMELIER PREP COURSE; an introduction to the wines, beers, and
spirits of the world (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 468 pages, ISBN 978-0-
470-28318-9, $35 US soft covers) is by Michael Gibson, an MS sommelier
teaching at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Scottsdale, AZ.
This book is meant for the restaurant-sommelier/bartender or sommelier-
student, but anybody can use it. In addition to lots of wine material
(which, admittedly, can be found in many other books), there are loads
of details on beers and spirits. What also makes the book useful are
the review questions and quizzes. There is a pronouncing glossary of
1200 key terms, maps, and sections on how a sommelier is supposed to
work in a bistro (opening wines, presenting them, labels, knowledge,
etc.). The emphasis in the book is on prepping for any sommelier test,
whether at a college hospitality program or the awesome MS Court. It
can serve as a good reference work, and at this price, it is certainly
affordable. Not a colourful book: photos are all black and white,
tables and graphs fill the pages, and there are exercises everywhere.
But nit keeps the price down.
Audience and level of use: wine and sommelier students, current
sommeliers seeking refresher upgrading, hospitality schools and their
libraries.
Some interesting facts: For each type of beverage, Gibson covers the essential
history, manufacturing information, varieties available, and tasting and pairing
information. He also includes sections on service, storage, and wine list preparation for
an understanding of many aspects of beverage service.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
9.  THE WINE, BEER & SPIRITS HANDBOOK; a guide to styles and service
(John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 513 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-13884-7, $30US on
Amazon.Com, hard covers) is by Joseph DeVilla and The International
Culinary Schools at the Art Institutes, which boasts over 6,000
students. The book is quite similar to the sommelier book above, except
there is more emphasis on wines, chapters have review questions and key
terms, and there are both colour photos and a hard case binding. Yet
the price is about the same as the sommelier book. The number of pages
here is misleading since the typeface is large and there is leading and
some blank pages ahead of some chapters. This book has a "nicer" feel
than Gibson's (above) but I usually prefer data. I'd imagine that it
would be used at the ICS, for sure, since it is issued from them.
There's a glossary and a bibliography at the end.
Audience and level of use: students, especially at the ICS
Some interesting facts: The book explains the responsibilities of the
sommelier from both the service and the managerial perspectives.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

May 25/10: Tasting of Zuccardi Argentine wines at Kultura

The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 25, 2010  5PM – 6PM

The Event: Jose Alberto Zuccardi was in town, and hosted some sit-down and stand-up tastings today. His winery is the second-largest in Argentina. He is repped by Dionysus

The Venue: Kultura, King Street East

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: 17 of 18 wines are available in the system, either at LCBO (six on General) or at Vintages.

The Quote/Background: unfortunately, one of the wines was not available for tasting – the Santa Julia Malbec Organic 2009 – because it was not picked up at the LCBO.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Santa Julia MAGNA Cabernet Malbec Syrah, +93799, $14.95

-Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, +140855, $18.95

-Zuccardi ZETA Malbec Tempranillo 2006, +163725, $49.95

-Chateau Julia Tardio LH Torrontes (with 10% viognier) 2008, $14.95.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fuzion Alta Torrontes/Pinot Grigio 2009, +168419, $8.95

-Fuzion Shiraz Rose 2010, +122424, $7.45 end of June

-Fuzion Alta Malbec Reserva 2009, +135475, $9.95

-Fuzion Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon Organico 2009, +127456, $12.95

-Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2008, +665026, $13.95

-Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2008, +167619, $15

-Santa Julia Cabernet Sauvignon Organico, +68452, $12.95

-Santa Julia MAGNA Cabernet 2008, +166421, $14.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fuzion Chenin/Chardonnay 2009, +119800, $7.45

-Fuzion Shiraz/Malbec 2009, +83188, $7.45

-Santa Julia Reserva Bonarda 2008, +141366, $13.95

-Santa Julia Extra Brut NV, +142042, $14.95

-Santa Julia Malbec Rose Organico 2009, +120279, $12.95

 

The Food: truffled beef tartare; fried tofu; rice balls; pot stickers. Zuccardi also makes olive oils, and we had a chance to sample three different ones based on three olive varieties including Manzanilla. The agency is thinking of importing these oils.

The Downside: it was very hot outside.

The Upside: just the right amount of time to taste some 16 wines.

The Contact Person: alex@dionysuswines.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

May 26/10: Tasting of the Wineries of Niagara-on-the-Lake, Board of Trade

 The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 26, 2010  5Pm to 9PM

The Event: A tasting of the Wineries of Niagara-on-the-Lake, a group representing all the 22 wineries in that micro-region. Sherri Lockwood is this year's head of the group. It was put on by the iYellow wine club.

The Venue: Board of Trade

The Target Audience: consumers

The Availability/Catalogue: There were 22 wineries, with two wines each. Products were available for ordering that night. The catalogue had prices and vintage dates. And many winemakers were actually in attendance.

The Quote/Background: It was a good space for the 200 attendees, willing to cool off with many white wines and sparklers. Angela Aiello, the main organizer for iYellow, had arranged for a variety of seminars for those who wished to learn more.

The Wines: I did not try all the wines, leaving out those I had just recently sampled elsewhere.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Charmes Rose Sparkling Wine MC 2006, $28.95

-Hillebrand Trius Brut Rose, $29.95

-Lailey Vineyard Chardonnay Brickyard Vineyard, $30

-Niagara College Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008, $18.95

-Peller Estates Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $38

-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $29.95

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cattail Creek Chardonnay Musque 2009, $17

-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc St. David's Bench 2005, $25.95

-Jackson Triggs Methode Classique 2005, $22.95

-Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2007, $32.95

-Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir Brickyard Vineyard, $35

-Niagara College Unoaked Chardonnay 2007, $14.95

-Palatine Hills Proprietor's Reserve Merlot 2007, $34.95

-Palatine Hills Proprietor's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $34.95

-Ravine Merlot 2008, $32

-Stratus Cabernet Franc 2007, $38

-Strewn Chardonnay B.F. Amalgam Terroir, $24.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Maleta Old Vine Dry Sparkling Riesling 2007, $27.95

-Pillitteri Gewurztraminer 2007, $18

-Ravine Riesling 2008, $28

-Strewn Cabernet Franc 2007, $18.95

 

The Food: Oliver and Bonacini catered, with appetizers such as brioche grilled sandwiches, popovers, spoons, etc. There was a big display of dips and breads and veggies. Quite nicely done.

The Downside: It was very hot outside, so I arrived by TTC in shorts. There was just one other guy in shorts.

The Upside: a good selection of wines.

The Contact Person: ange@iyellowwinegroup.com or sherri.lockwood@andrewpeller.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

June 26, 2010 LCBO Vintages Release Notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JUNE 26, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Ciderie St-Nicolas Pom'Or Tradition Crackling Cider Quebec: a
pleasant change of pace from either beer or sparkling wine. The 7 % ABV
gives it a basic kick; it is, of course, full of apple tones, Crisp
throughout. +179473, $12.95, QPR: 90.
2. McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2008 California: delicious,
exaggerated viognier style with peaches. +658112, 19.95, QPR: 90.
3. Te Kairanga Chardonnay 2007 Martinborough: heavily oaked, remains on
the lips afterwards, body fruity but high acid. 13.5% ABV. +727024,
$16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Jean Geiler Letzenberg Lieu-Dit Pinot Gris 2008 Alsace: intense,
good body, off-dry finish. +169003, $16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau Rauzan Despagne Blanc 2008 Bordeaux: good long
Semillon/savvy blanc finish. +173955, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6. Domaine des Echardieres Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Touraine: sauvignon
blanc with body, sip or with food. +168930, $13.95, QPR: 90.
7. Puklus Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2008 Hungary: good muscat complexity for
Asiatic summer dishes, off-dry finish. +46508, $14.95, QPR: 90.
8. Colli a Lago San Vigilio Lugana 2008: terrific body and development,
good floral and fruit aromas, complex on mid-palate, citric finish.
+174128, $14.95.
9. Bodegas Agnusdei Terra Firme Albarino 2008: quality stone fruit
tones at an affordable price level, 12.5% ABV. +166751, $13.95, QPR: 90
10. Miguel Torres Vina Esmeralda 2009 Catalunya: a perennial fave in my
house for about 30 years. The first time I bought it, it was $3.50.
Off-dry value, 11.5% ABV, twist top, summery aromas of muscat and
Gewurz. +113696, $12.95, QPR: 90.

 

 

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Las Lomas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Maule Valley: good varietal
character of cabernet at this price level – plus it's organic! +917922,
$12.95, QPR: 90.
2. Tyrone Estate Home Block Merlot 2007: juicy lucy jammy fruit capsule
bomb. +165969, $16.95, QPR: 90
3. Chateau Lanbersac 2005 Puisseguin Saint-Emilion: value, but needs
more time. Good merlot complexity. Try again in 2 – 3 years. +177006,
$19.95, QPR: 90.
4. M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon-Villages
2008: deep dark fruit, very aromatic and heady, long finish and body.
+168716, $15, QPR: 90.
5. Clos La Coutale Cahors 2007: dark fruit, ready soon, North American
style and appeal. +171579, $13.95, QPR: 90.
6. Caruso & Minini Cutaja Nero d'Avola 2007 Sicilia: smooth, black
fruit, some mushroom underbrush component, best with food. +174763,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
7. Scopetani Chianti Riserva 2006: value wine with modal varietal
character. +164814, $13.95, QPR: 90.
8. Bod. Alitus Ardal Crianza 2005 Ribero del Duero: dynamite value with
lashings of oak, mushrooms, underbrush, and ripe red fruit. +167601,
$17.95, QPR: 91.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Flat Rock Cellars Seriously Twisted 2007 Niagara, +87783, $22.95
retail.
2. Chateau St. Jean Robert Young Chardonnay Alexander Valley, +990499,
$31.95
3. De Loach Chardonnay 2007 Russian River, +702985, $23.95.
4. Quails' Gate Merlot 2006 Okanagan, +169961, $24.95.
5. Chapellet Merlot 2006 Napa, +171686, $31.95.
6. E. Guigal Saint-Joseph 2006, +30031, $29.95.
7. Montiverdi Vigneto Cipressone Chianti Classico 1998, +954370,
$24.95.
8. Farina Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005, +995910, $34.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

May 13/10: Taste to Terroir -- Ontario wines at George Brown College

The Time and Date: Thursday, May 13, 2010  7Pm to 10PM

The Event: Taste to Terroir; celebrate Ontario

The Venue: George Brown College Chef School, Adelaide

The Target Audience: consumers, invited media.

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available, some through normal distribution channels, others through the winery alone.

The Quote/Background: Salut is back, although this is yet again another name change. The basic formula should work – consumer shows are what is needed, not trade shows nor seminars. Just my opinion.

The Wines: I did not taste all the wines.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Rosewood Chardonnay Reserve 2007, $25

-The Grange of PEC Trompour's Mill Victoria Block Chardonnay 2007

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Organized Crime Gewurztraminer 2008, $22

-Organized Crime Riesling Reserve 2008, $28

-Organized Crime Syrah 2008, $34

-Kacaba Chardonnay 2006 Horizon Ridge, $19.95

-Kacaba Riesling Reserve 2009, $17.95

-Lailey Counterpoint White 2005 [Gewurz,sav.bl.,chardonnay,sem.,riesling]  $25

-Lailey Pinot Noir 2008, $25

-Rosewood Natalie's Sussreserve Riesling 2008, $18

-Rosewood Semillon 2008, $18

-Creekside Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2007, $26.95

-Hillebrand Trius White 2008

-Sue-Ann Staff Estate Riesling 2008

-Sue-Ann Staff Estate Baco Noir 2008

-Nyarai Cellars Chardonnay 2007

-Nyarai Cellars Trois 2009 [pinot grigio,viognier,sauv.bl.] $19.50

-Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Wismer Vineyard 2009

-Peninsula Ridge Fume Blanc 2007

-Peninsula Ridge Meritage 2007

-Daniel Lenko Estate Riesling Reserve 2007, $19.95

     

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Organized Crime Pinot Gris 2009, $19

-Organized Crime Pinot Noir 2008, $34

-Organized Crime Cabernet Franc 2008, $34

-Lailey Chardonnay 2007, $20

-Pelee Island Gewurztraminer Reserve 2006

-Wayne Gretzky Estate Riesling 2008

-Wayne Gretzky Estate Chardonnay 2008

-Hernder Gewurztraminer 2007 Wild Ferment

-Legends Diva 2008 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

-Legends Gewurztraminer 2007

-Foreign Affair Winery Riesling 2008, $24.95

-Mountain Road Winery Chardonnay 2007

 

The Food: a variety (Beretta pork bellies from GBC Restaurant, Norfolk county apple foods, Stratford's Bijou Bistro charcuterie, Dairy Farmers' cheeses such as bocconcini, havarti, maple cheddar, and chocolate cheese fudge, et al).

The Downside: there was room for about 50 more people; 150 were in attendance.

The Upside: a chance to enjoy a relaxed show where NOBODY in the audience knew me. I do get harried when people try to talk to me and want an answer when my mouth is full of wine. They risk danger…

The Contact Person: lindsaygroves@hotmail.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

May 17/10: Winemakers and Terroir, Gigliola Trambusti Fine Italian Wines at Hart House

 The Time and Date: Monday, May 17, 2010  11AM to 6PM

The Event: Winemakers and Terroir; in collaboration with Gigliola Trambusti Fine Italian Wines.

The Venue: Hart House, Univ of Toronto

The Target Audience: wine trade, agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: about half of the wines were already available from agents. But in essence, this was to be a show of Italian wineries looking for agents in Ontario.

The Quote/Background: presumably some of the wines are available through the normal distribution systems, but most will be private orders. Prices were difficult to come by, so I just gave up.

The Wines: I did not try all the wines.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Riofava di Sergio Gomba Nebbiolo d'Alba 2007  Ron Carpentier

-Podere La Vigna Rosso Toscana IGT Maritato 2005   Churchill Cellars

-Frat. De Luca Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Conte Genoino 2004

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Riofava di Sergio Gomba Barolo Suri 2005  Ron Carpentier

-Riofava di Sergio Gomba Barolo 2006  Ron Carpentier

-Podere Saulino Brachetto di Piemonte NV [sparkling]  Ron Carpentier

-Villa Erbice Amarone Della Valpolicella Tremenel 2005

-Dal Din Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Vidor Millesimato 2009

-Provenza Lugana Brut Metodo Classico Ca Maiol  Lorac

-Branko Collio Pinot Grigio 2009

-Tenuta de Sticciano Rosso Toscana Cantastorie IGT 2005    Ron Carpentier

-Podere La Vigna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004   Churchill Cellars

-Poderi Angelini Chardonnay de Salento IGT 2009

-Villa di Quartu Cannonau di Sardegna Parillias 2007    Vinum Novum

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Cipriana Bolgheri Vermentino Paguro 2009 Tuscany

 

The Food: cold cuts of salami and prosciutto and other antipasti dishes (marinated roasted veggies, sun-dried tomatoes, cheeses, breads, etc.)

The Downside: I was expecting more trade people, and also more unrepresented wineries.

The Upside: I got to experience some new and different wineries.

The Contact Person: p.titone@ice.it

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com