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Saturday, August 7, 2010

June 7, 2010: Tasting Hendry Ranch wines from Napa

The Time and Date: Monday June 7 2010, 3PM to 4:30 PM 
The Event: Hendry Ranch, Napa Valley, tasting, repped by Artisanal Wine
Imports.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street
The Target Audience: wine media, private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: Most wines were available for immediate
delivery through the Consignment Program.
The Quote/Background: Located in the south western part of the Napa,
the vineyards have been farmed by the Hendry family since 1939 (vines
had been first planted here since about 1870). The production had been
sold to other labels such as Opus One and Mondavi, but over the past
few years, the family has marketed their own brand of wines. The
vineyards have been divided into 50 blocks, ensuring scrupulous record-
taking and blending.
The Wines:  We began with a rinse-bouche of Champagne! Prices are
retail.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hendry Primitivo 2007 Napa, $46.95  UCD clone
-Hendry Zinfandel Block 7 & 22 2007 Napa, $45.95
-Hendry HRW Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa, $34.95  second label
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mailly Champagne Grand Cru Brut Reserve NV, $58.95 75PN/25Ch
-Hendry Pinot Noir 2007 Napa, $49.95
-Hendry Pinot Gris 2008 Napa, $31.95
-Hendry Unoaked Chardonnay 2007, $49.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hendry Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa, $78.95
 
The Food: breads, almonds, cashews.
The Contact Person: bob@artisanalwineimports.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.
 
 
 
 
 

June 29, 2010: APVSA Tasting in Toronto

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 29, 2010   10 AM to 6 PM
The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des
vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep
the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there are often sales staff
available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also
visits New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary and Montreal.
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were no better than the wines
that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be
any price advantages, either. These 60 or so wines could be made
available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few
have been picked up for sale in Ontario. Here were my faves, regardless
of price (all prices are ex-cellar Euros):
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Jean-Loron Chenas Les Jean-Loron 2007, 4.50 Euros
-Domaine du Bicheron Gaec Rousset Macon Peronne 2008, 3.80 E – Gold at
World Chardonnay competition.
-Caves Cantalric Jean de Meyrac Bouquet de Garrigues 2009 V de P
Cathare
-Domaine du Mas Rous Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 VDP des Cotes Catalanes,
4.85 E
-Chateau Bellefontaine Vieille Vignes 2009 Costieres de Nimes, 3.74 E
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Jean-Loron Chenas Les Gandelins 2008, 4.50 Euros
-Clos du Porteau Sauvignon Blanc Le Courlis 2008, 2.84 E
-Domaine de la Garenne Sancerre Rose 2009, 6.10 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Blanc Tradition Chardonnay 2009, 3.30 E
-Domaine Jacky et Pascal Preys Silex Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc Vieilles
Vignes 2008, 3.90 E
-Domaine de la Chaise Touraine Blanc Sauvignon 2009, 2.85 E
-Domaine de la Renne Touraine Sauvignon 2009, 2.65 E
-Domaine de la Renne Chardonnay 2009 Vins de Pays du Val de Loire,2.50E
-Champagne Vollereaux Cuvee Marguerite Blanc 2004, 18.90 E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Santenay Le Chainey Blanc 2008, 7.80 E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Santenay 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau La
Fussiere Dessus Rouge 2008, 8.30 E
-Caves Cantalric Corbieres Rouge Chateau de Comigne Fut 2006, 3.50 E
-Domaine de Malavieille Coteaux du Languedoc Saint Saturnin Les Mas de
Bertrand 2005, 4 E
-Domaine de Clarmon Cuvee Hommage 2008 Minervois, 7.13 E
-Chateau Bellefontaine 2009 Costieres de Nimes, 2.98 E
-Vignobles du Soleil Caze Blanque Cabernet Sauvignon VDO d'Oc 2009,
1.80E
-Domaine Les Girard du Boucou Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2007, 12.50 E -
organic
-Anne Hugues Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Les Saumades 2008, 8.95 E
-Anne Hugues Vaucluse 2006 VDP 2006, 1.75 E
-Anne Hugues Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Les Saintes Vierges 2008, 12.50E
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine de la Garenne Sancerre Blanc 2009, 6.20 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Tressaillier des Gravieres 2009, 3.70 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Rouge Tradition 2009, 3.10 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Seduction Rouge 2009, 4.50 E
-Domaine Jacky et Pascal Preys Touraine Rouge Cuvee Plaisir des Anges
2006, 2.90 E
-Domaine Jacky et Pascal Preys Touraine Sauvignon les pillotieres 2008,
2.70 E
-Domaine Gilles Blanchet Pouilly Fume 2009, 5 E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc 2008, 5E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Rouge 2008, 5E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Bourgogne Maranges Rouge 2007, 6.80 E
-Chateau d'Estoublon Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays des Alpilles, 11.90 E
-Caves Cantalric Syrah Rouge Rendez-Vous 2007 VDP d'Oc, 2.25 E
-Domaine de Malavieille Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasse du Larzac
Alliance Rouge 2007, 4 E
-Domaine de Malavieille Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasse du Larzac Permien
Rouge 2007, 3 E
-Domaine du Mas Rous Cotes du Roussillon Rouge 2004 de chene, 4.58 E
-Domaine du Mas Rous Cotes du Roussillon Tradition Rouge 2008, 3.58 E
-Domaine de Clarmon Cuvee Clara 2008 Minervois, 4.02 E
 
The Food: none.
The Downside: selection is eclectic and bottles arrive haphazardly.
Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told this until we
got there.
The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.
There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84.
 
 
 

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Aug 7/10: LCBO Vintages Release notes


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 7, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Gris 2008 VQA Four Mile Creek
Niagara: good citrus tones, some orchard fruit on the finish,
reasonable body, definite "gris" style. +116582, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Round Hill Chardonnay 2008 California: decent balanced chardonnay
with some wood complexity, 13% ABV, and well-priced. Gold medalist.
+311415, $14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Tanunda Creek Loan Semillon 2006 Barossa Valley: very good MVC for
the Barossa style, could be aged more, twist top – and organic!
+108092, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Baron de Hoen Reserve Particuliere Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace:
delicious Gewurz, spot on the style from Alsace, with a forgivable
price tag and excellent body. +169763, $15.95, QPR: 91.
5. Cantine Manimurci Impeto Greco di Tufo 2009 Campania: another great
summery wine, with minerals and citrus tones, unbeatable value.
+180752, $13.95, QPR: 90.
6. Caruso & Minini Terre di Giumara Inzolia 2009 IGT Sicilia: lovely
crisp finish, orchard fruit, great price. +180760, $11.95, QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Dos 2 Estacas Malbec 2008 Mendoza: basic, dryish MVC Malbec at 14%
ABV, with two years bottle aging after oaking in US and French wood.
+169433, $12.95, QPR: 89.
2. Fam. Schroeder Saurus Patagonia Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2008: very
Euro in style, dry long finish. +61986, $15.95, QPR: 89.
3. Santa Laura Laura Hartwig Reserva Merlot 2007 Colchagua: full juicy
flavours, delivers value. +640946, $13.95, QPR: 89.
4. Boxhead Shiraz 2008 South Australia: quality fruit bomb sipper, 14%
ABV. +166967, $15.95, QPR: 89.
5. Richard Hamilton Gumprs' Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale: complex but heavy
shiraz, black fruit and mocha. +600122, $18.95, QPR: 89.
6. Water Wheel Memsie 2008 Bendigo Victoria: North American in style
but emphasizes syrah over shiraz, good balance and fruit. +656637,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
7. Domaine de Poujo Madiran 2007: terrific finish and depth, many black
fruits and underbrush. +719674, $14.95, QPR: 89.
8. Apollonio Copertino Rosso 2004 Puglia: dynamite complexity right
through to the finish of dried fruit. Six months oak, 14% ABV, 70% aged
Negroamaro. +23226, $16.95, QPR: 90.
9. Francesco Minini Terre Avare Primitivo di Manduria 2008 Puglia: soft
and fruity, like a California zinfandel, but less expensive. +180307,
$12.95, QPR: 89.
10. Francesco Minini Corte dei Mori Nero d'Avola 2008 IGT Sicilia: rich
and full-bodied in that North American style through taste and fruit.
+180281, $13.95, QPR: 89.
11. Castello di Querceto Chianti 2008: a steal for a basic, well-made
chianti, 12% ABV. +164798, $12.95, QPR: 89.
12. Senorio de Sarria Crianza 2006 Navarra: very North American in
style – jammy, open, fruity, some wood. +167668, $12.95, QPR: 89.
13. Senorio de Unuela Edicion Limitada Reserva 2001 Rioja: lots of
coconut tones from wood aging, but decently priced older Rioja. Scoop
it up! +172536, $16.95, QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Beringer Chardonnay 2008 Napa, +84988, $24.95 retail.
2. Chappellet Chardonnay 2008 Napa, +186577, $44.95 retail.
3. Tamdem Sangiacomo Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma, +173344, $24.95
4. Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Sonoma,
+944843, $34.95
5. Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, +993279,
$39.95.
6. Farina LePezze Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006, +171587,
$31.95.
 
 
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Monday, August 2, 2010

June 22, 2010: Tasting the 2008s of Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2010  11 AM to 4PM
The Event: the annual vintage tasting of Bouchard Pere & Fils and
William Fevre, both represented by Woodman Wines & Spirits. This year,
it was the 2008 harvest.
The Venue: RCYC at St. George
The Target Audience: clients, writers.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, some are here, at
the LCBO, or by private order.
The Quote/Background: there were more wines from previous vintages
here, the major year being 2007. And it was good to see how that
vintage was progressing to great drinkability.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cote de Beaune Villages 2006, $25 – great price
-Beaune du Chateau 1er Cru 2007, $39 - value
-Gevrey Chambertin 2007, $45
-Chambertin Clos de Beze 2008, $214
-Clos Vougeot 2007, $169
-Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2008, $79
-Corton Charlemagne 2008, $149
-William Fevre Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru 2008, $56
-William Fevre Les Clos Grand Cru 2008, $93
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Beaune 1er Cru Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus 2008, $109
-Beaune 1er Cru Marconnets, 2008, $48
-Beaune 1er Cru Teurons 2007, $50
-Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens 2008, $79
-Le Corton 2007, $102
-Chambolle Musigny 2008, $53
-Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots 2008, $119
-Meursault Les Clous 2007, $45
-Beaune 1er Cru Saint-Landry Blanc 2008, $53
-Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2008, $82
-Chevalier Montrachet 2008, $255
-William Fevre Bougros Cote Bougerots Grand Cru 2008, $42
-William Fevre Kes Preuses Grand Cru 2008, $81
-Villa Ponciago Fleurie Cuvee des Hauts du Py 2009, $27
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bourgogne Coteaux des Moines 2008, $24  retail.
-Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 2008, $75
-Le Corton 2008, $102
-Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles 2008, $89
-Bourgogne La Vignee Chardonnay 2008, $20
-William Fevre Vaillons 1er Cru 2008, $42
 
The Food: cheese platter, breads, water.
The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.
 

 
 
 

Sunday, August 1, 2010

June 22, 2010: Lunch with Kilikanoon Wines, Australia

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 12PM to 2PM
The Event: lunch with Nathan Waks, proprietor and managing director of
Kilikanoon Wines, which has 400 hectares of terroirs in Barossa, Eden,
McLaren, Clare (their original property), and others.
The Venue: Far Niente
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: the wines we tasted were mostly available
through Vintages.
The Quote/Background: Kilikanoon produces a half million bottles of
wines, from entry level (Killerman's Run) through a Regional Series, a
single varietal series and a Reserve line. Nathan Waks spoke to all of
the wines, and answered an amazing number of queries on a wide variety
of topics, including marketing and other wineries.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kilikanoon Covenant Shiraz 2007 Clare Valley, $45, +674747 for the2004
-Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz 2007 Clare Valley, $75, +926816 for the 2005
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kilikanoon Barrel Fermented Semillon 2009, $24.95 – private order
-Kilikanoon Parable Shiraz 2007 McLaren Vale, $39.95, +59824 for 2006
-Kilikanoon Testament Shiraz 2007 Barossa Valley, $39.95, +50047 for
2006
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Killerman's Run Shiraz South Australia 2007, $19.95,+925453 VEssential
 
The Food: we had a lot of different foods, thankfully in small samples
to taste with all the shiraz wines. The salsify soup went well with the
Semillon, and a trio of pork belly, beef satay, and boar ravioli went
up against three shirazes (and we cross-compared). The Oracle Shiraz
appeared with the main, an enormous quantity of roasted rack of lamb.
The Killerman showed fine against the mimolette and fleur de maquis
cheeses.
The Downside: we were late in starting, mainly because some writers
were not punctual.
The Upside: a chance to compare different terroirs for the Aussie
shiraz.
The Contact Person: anorris@diamondwines.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.
 
 
 
 
 

Saturday, July 31, 2010

June 17, 2010: Sip & Savour Ontario Wines

The Time and Date: Thursday, June 17, 2010  11AM to 6PM
The Event: Sip & Savour Ontario, celebrating Ontario wine week June 13
to 19.
The Venue: Pantages Hotel
The Target Audience: Ontario wine industry, wine trade.
The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines listed in the catalogue were
identified as to medal category winner (if applicable), availability
through the LCBO or the winery, and a designation whether the wines
were being tasted at the trade show and/or the consumer show that
evening.
The Quote/Background: From Tony Aspler, the organizer of the Ontario
Wine Awards: "Gold medal wines were served with each course of the
luncheon. The White Wine of the Year – garnering the highest aggregate
scores from the judges – was Huff Estates South Bay Chardonnay 2007 and
the Red Wine of the Year was Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc Reserve
2007. Following the presentations there were three seminars for the
trade – Bill Redelmeier of Southbrook spoke on Chardonnay, Norman
Hardie addressed Pinot Noir and Natalie Reynolds discussed Riesling.
Then the Trade tasting, followed by the Consumer tasting in the
evening."
 
The Wines:
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Huff Estates 2007 South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay, $29.95 – Gold, White
Wine of the Year
-Calamus Estate Gewurztraminer 2008, $17.20
-Five Rows Craft Wine of Lowrey Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $50
-Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut, +616458, $29.95
-Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2008, $19.95 –
Gold
-Konzelmann Merlot 4 Generations Barrel Aged 2007, $30
-Lailey Vineyard Old Vines Chardonnay 2008, $40
-Wayne Gretzky Estate Series Cabernet/Merlot 2007, +128562, $21.95 -
Gold
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Southbrook Vineyards 2008 Triomphe Chardonnay, +172338, $21.95
-Flat Rock Cellars 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, $35 – Cuvee White Wine of
the Year
-Peller Estates 2008 Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie, $30
-Alvento Vio Vignier 2008, $23.95
-Coyote's Run Estate Black Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, +49775, $21.95
-Creekside Estate Broken Press Shiraz 2007, $39.95 – Gold
-Fielding Estate Syrah 2007, $44.95
-Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2007, +616466, $35
-Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut, +616441, $29.95
-Huff Estates Cuvee Peter F. Huff 2006, $39.95
-Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Merlot 2007, $24.99 - Gold
-Lailey Vineyard Brickyard Chardonnay 2008, $30
-Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2007,
$38.
-Rosewood Estates Gewurztraminer 2008, $18
-Tawse Chardonnay Musque 2009, $21.95 – Gold
-Vineland Estates Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2007, +563411, $49
-Thirty Bench 2008 Small Lot Riesling Steel Post Vineyard
-13th Street 2008 Gamay Noir
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Coyote's Run Estate Meritage 2007, +72762, $24.95
-Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Merlot 2007, $38
-Riverview Cellars Angelina's Reserve Chardonnay 2008, $19.95
-Riverview Cellars Gewurztraminer 2008, $16.95
 
The Food: the luncheon was new this year. Other years there was a Gala
Awards Dinner, first at the Royal York and then at Queen's Landing
NOTL, usually in April. So it was a packed day. At the trade show,
there were breads from the Stonemill Bakehouse and cheeses via the
Dairy Farmers of Ontario (Figaro and Celtic Blue from Glengarry, Quinte
Crest from Fifth Town, 7 year cheddar from Pine River Cheese, and Maple
Cheddar from Black River Cheese).
The Downside: the sparkling wine reception was cramped, and only one
wine was served, the Gold medal winner Hillebrand NV Trius Brut. At the
show itself, we needed more spit buckets.
The Upside: during the luncheon, a chance to hobnob with Ontario
wineries.
The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.
 
 
 

Friday, July 30, 2010

June 16, 2010: Tasting with the Rothschilds

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 16, 2010  6PM to 10PM
The Event: The 80th Anniversary of Mouton Cadet, introduced in 1930, and
repped here in Ontario by Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd.
The Venue: The Round Room at The Carlu.
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers.
The Availability/Catalogue: the dinner was an opportunity to introduce
some new wines to Ontario – Barons de Rothschild Champagne NV, in the
$90 range, Reserve Mouton Cadet Graves Blanc 2008, $16, and the Mouton
Cadet Pauillac Edition Limitee 2006, $90 for a magnum and $180 for the
double magnum.
The Quote/Background: this dinner was playing throughout Canada, in
other cities and other times. An entertaining video about the history
of Mouton Cadet was shown. Mouton Cadet is the largest selling French
brand, and it has been around here in Canada since the early fifties.
The Carlu was chosen because Jean Carlu designed the first Chateau
Mouton-Rothschild label in 1924.
The Wines: Three branches of the family got together to produce a Blanc
de Blancs Champagne through Goutte d'Or, a real winner with the
appetizers. Here was the rest of the menu --
Green and white asparagus risotto with a seared scallop and heirloom carrot reduction,
(Réserve Mouton Cadet Graves Blanc 2008, $16),  rosemary black pepper and Dijon
brushed rack of lamb with Yukon gold potato mash and season vegetable bundle
(Mouton Cadet Pauillac Edition Limitée 2006 double magnum). Apparently, what
makes this wine so special is that it has the same  blend as the first Mouton Cadet made
by Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1930 – uniquely from Pauillac fruit – 43% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and 22% Merlot.
Next came three artisanal cheeses (Château Mouton-Rothschild 1978, with the label
designed by Jean-Paul Riopelle), all hard and salty cheeses. For dessert: Ontario
strawberry short cake with vanilla bean custard (Réserve Mouton Cadet Sauternes
2007, $30 for the full bottle). Our table ordered – and got – extra cheese for the
Sauternes. We were the only table to get this favour. It was worth the re-taste.
The Downside: 56 people attended, but there were also eight empty
seats.
The Upside: a great opportunity to drink some 1978 and to get a
Rothschild-autographed bottle (empty) of the 1978 for myself and my
wife – 1978 was our anniversary year, and we were celebrating it the
next day.
The Contact Person: wcluk@pdandurand.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.
 
 
 
 
 

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

PUNCHED DRUNK; alcohol, surveillance and the LCBO, 1927-1975. -- book review

PUNCHED DRUNK; alcohol, surveillance and the LCBO, 1927-1975 (Fernwood Publishing, 2009, 222 pages, ISBN 978-1-5526-6319-6, $19.95 Canadian paper covers) is by academics Scott Thompson and Gary Genosko. It was published in late 2009, and to my knowledge, it has been ignored by the popular press, especially in Ontario. Indeed, it was not even published in Ontario. Conspiracy theories, anyone? Sure, it's an academic book, but really, how many times does a book about the LCBO get published, especially one that slags the bureaucracy that is behind its "moral" and "regulatory" nature. It's also a book about early computer technology, to wit, the punched (or IBM Hollerith) card, which arose out of the necessity of tabulating the US Census of 1890. In 1944, punched cards were used to track Permit holders and purchases, among other things. The LCBO was established in 1927 to regulate the sales of alcohol after prohibition ended. But "if the government was expected to be returned at the next and succeeding elections they had to make their law effective". The government of the day could not permit "it to be shown that revenue was being generated from the ruination of families or creating drunkards." Thus was born the Interdiction List, from 1927 to its official end in 1990. A total of 79,000 names were on this list. These people had all been sent a letter from the LCBO: their privilege to purchase liquor had been revoked. Any purchase or possession of alcohol on their part would be considered a criminal act. These people now had a new status: known drunkard. However, they did NOT know that copies of these letters were going out to every police station, bar, beer store and LCBO in their region! And their names and descriptions were being added to a province-wide circulated "drunk list". It was a secret list, and once you were on it, you couldn't get off unless you died. It's an early example of citizen surveillance by the state. By 1944, the list had moved over to the punched card. They were indeed punched drunk. In 1927, the LCBO also established the green Permit book to track individual bottle purchases. My father had one: hey, it proves that he was NOT a drunk! By 1962 the Permits were gone, and by 1975 nobody was being added to the List anymore (although the frozen List was still around in 1990). Ontario was not alone here: there were similar laws and regulations clear across Canada, in parts of the US, and in other countries. Thompson and Genosko also wrote a couple of interesting sections here detailing treatment of women and First Nations drinking. It's an academic book with some arcane scholarly references, graphs, and charts, appendix (Interdiction records regression analysis, 1953-1975), end notes, and the like. The book can be tough slogging if you are not an academic, but an index could help pull out all kinds of references for easier retrieval and reading. What a shame that there is no index, it would have been extremely useful. But there is also much more material at their website www.puncheddrunk.ca and here you can do a word search to pull out all kinds of interesting facts and documents.

Audience and level of use: historians of bureaucracy, consumer profilers, First Nations, hose who enjoy histories of alcohol, libraries.

Some interesting or unusual facts: From the LCBO Annual Report 1928-29: "Strict sobriety and clean living is not only essential to business success, but also worthwhile citizenship".

The downside to this book: there is no index, which is a shame.

The upside to this book: there is a wealth of information about interdiction and attitudes. Also, the book serves as a partial history of the LCBO and its bureaucracy

Quality/Price Rating: 95.

 

 
 

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

June 16, 2010: Tasting Ste. Michelle Wine Estates' wines

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 16, 2010   2PM to 5:30 PM
The Event: Portfolio tasting of Ste. Michelle Wines Estates, repped by
Profile Wine Group.
The Venue: Sopra Upper Lounge
The Target Audience: wine media, clients
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is private order or consignment,
with one wine coming to Vintages July 10.
The Quote/Background:
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines. Prices are retail.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2008 Chardonnay, $17.95 Vintages
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells 2008 Chardonnay, $26.95 – my fave
white of the event.
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2006 Ethos Syrah, $40.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, $21.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge 2007 Merlot, $33.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos 2006 Merlot, $49.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, $35.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, $43.95
-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2006, $18.95
-North Star Columbia Valley Merlot 2006, $54.95
-North Star Walla Walla Merlot 2006, $76.95
-Conn Creek Napa Anthology 2006, $69.95
-Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, $25.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2006 Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon,
$54.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2006 Fay Cabernet Sauvignon, $125
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2009 Dry Riesling, $18.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2007 Syrah, $21.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells 2008 Merlot, $26.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, $26.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Artist Series Meritage 2006, $64.95
-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Syrah 2007, $18.95
-Columbia Crest H3 Merlot 2007, $24.95
-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $18.95
-Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnay 2008, $16.95
-Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $24.95
-Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $36.95
-Erath Oregon Prince Hill 2006 Pinot Noir, $51.95
-Conn Creek Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $37.95
-Villa Mt. Eden Russian River 2007 Pinot Noir, $39.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2007 Arcadia Chardonnay, $59.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2008 Merlot, $41.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2006 SLV Cabernet Sauvignon, $150
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2009 Riesling, $18.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2006 Merlot, $21.95
-Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnay 2008, $16.95
-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2008, $18.95
-Columbia Crest H3 Chardonnay 2008, $24.95
-Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot 2007, $16.95
-Columbia Crest Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $16.95
-Columbia Crest Walter Clore Red Blend 2006, $44.95
-Eroica Riesling 2008, $30.95
-Erath Oregon 2008 Pinot Gris, $23.95
-Erath Oregon 2008 Pinot Noir, $28.95
-Erath Oregon Estate Selection 2008 Pinot Noir, $49.95
-Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Uriah 2007, $67.95
-Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Frederick 2006, $67.95
-Colsolare Red Blend 2005 and 2006, $87.95
-Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve Bien Nacido 2006 Chardonnay, $24.95
-Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve Bien Nacido 2007 Pinot Noir, $34.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, $26.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2007 Karia Chardonnay, $32.95
 
The Food: little appetizers, bite sized (salmon, charcuterie,
mushrooms), Parmigiano Reggiano.
The Downside: for me it was a long hot day, three wine events, and
there were heavy reds here to sample.
The Upside: nice and cool, relaxed atmosphere, interesting tasters.
The Contact Person: jturco@profilewinegroup.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91.
 
 
 

Saturday, July 24, 2010

June 16, 2010: Tasting Leon Beyer wines from Alsace

The Time and Date: Wednesday June 16, 2010  2:30 – 4PM
The Event: a portfolio tasting of Leon Beyer, Alsatian wines
represented by Signature Wines & Spirits
The Venue: George Restaurant
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: a mixture of GL, Vintages, and Private
orders.
The Quote/Background: Marc Beyer, the fourth generation winemaker, was
along to pour his wines. I arrived early and was leaving to go to
another tasting just before M. Beyer arrived. I was sorry to have
missed him.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Leon Beyer Riesling "Les Ecaillers" 2004, $36.95 Jan 2011 Vintages
-Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer Comtes d'Eguisheim 2003, $48.95 private
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer 2009, $22.95 private order
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Pinot Gris 2008, $16.95 – General List. The 2009 will come in the
Fall, but we were unable to taste it.
-Riesling 2009, $19.95 private order
 
The Contact Person: marc@signaturews.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.
 
 
 

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

July 24/10: LCBO Vintages Releases Notes


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 24, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Clay Station Unoaked Viognier 2008 Lodi: off-dry aromatic pleasant,
emphasizing peaches. +25411, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Paul & Mallory Talmard Macon-Luchizy 2008: lush and full body,
slightly off-dry, great price for summer. +733956, $15.95, QPR: 90.
3. Joseph Verdier Domaine de la Colline Sauvignon Touraine 2008:
delicious sauvignon zest at this price level, flavours from front to
finish. +169656, $11.95.
4. Saint-Roch Grenache Blanc/Marsanne 2009 Vieilles Vignes Cotes du
Roussillon: harmonious, semi-aromatic, orchard fruit, believable price.
+175232, $13.95.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Jekel Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Arroyo Secco Monterey County: always a
personal fave, since the 1983 vintage, good wood this time out, but
needs more cellar time. +967893, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Familia Schroeder Saurus Merlot 2008 Patagonia: red fruit shows,
lots of body, better in the Fall. +167031, $13.95, QPR: 89.
3. St. Hallett Gamekeeper's Shiraz 2008 Barossa: juicy little devil,
twist top, 14% ABV, BBQ all the way. +166991, $14.95, QPR: 89.
4. Stellenrust Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 WO Stellbosch: heavy-heavy
tastes and textures, 15% ABV, best in winter time. +172593, $13.95,
QPR: 90.
5. The Winery of Good Hope Shiraz 2007 WO Stellenbosch: very Rhonish.
Buy it all at this price! +172577, $11.95, QPR: 92.
6. Chateau de Pena 2006 Cotes du Roussillon Villages: tasty, with depth
and complexity to its age. +178392, $13.95, QPR: 90.
7. Domaine Les Yeuses Les Epices Syrah 2007 Vins de Pays d'Oc:
value=priced, great syrah hit of pepper, smoked meat, black fruit.
+177584, $12.95, QPR: 91.
8. Boutari Naoussa 2007 Greece: bargain price for this kind of smoky
grape-oak complexity. +23218, $11.95, QPR: 90.
9. Encostas de Estremoz Vinha Longa Reserva Red 2006 Alentejo:
delicious, heavy red wine, lots of fruit and mocha tones. BBQ for sure.
+168765, $16.95, QPR: 90.
 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Lailey Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara River, +131243, $25 retail.
2. Hollick Bond Road Chardonnay 2007 Coonawarra/Padthaway, +941922,
$21.95 retail.
3. Andre & Edmond Figeat Les Chaumiennes Pouilly-Fume 2008, +171470,
$21.95.
4. Tres Sabores ?Porque No? 2007 Napa, +186551, $29.95.
5. Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Margaret River, +923565,
$29.95.
6. Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 McLaren Vale, +730374, $23.95.
7. Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2007 Cotes du Rhone,
+48884, $29.95.
8. Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2004, +149534, $38.95.