Mar 5/11 LCBO Vintages Releases - some notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 5, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Fog Head Highlands Reserve Chardonnay 2009 Monterey County Highland
Series: a restaurant-styled wine, initially floral then fruity, toasty
and vanilla finish. Off-dry on the mid-palate. More a sipper. 13.5%
ABV. +158568, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Amaral Cool Climate Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Leyda Valley Chile:
minerality and citric tones (mainly lime, maybe rangpur as well) along
with modal character of grass and herbs, long long finish, fairly young
vines. 14.5% ABV. Gold Medalist. +48025, $14.95, QPR: 91.
3. Thelema Sutherland Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Elgin South Africa: some
floral quality, along with minerals and food-length finish. 13% ABV.
+203877, $13.95, QPR: 90.
4. Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Pinot Gris 2008 Alsace: off-dry palate,
spicy body, dense, finishes dry. +641597, $16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau de la Greffiere Macon-La Roche Vineuse 2009: ripe, dense,
mandarin orange flavours. 13% ABV. Gold Medalist. Bargain price.
+205898, $14.95, QPR: 90.
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Limari Valley: concentrated
flavours, lovely development, great price. +58446, $14.95, QPR: 90.2. Cline Los Carneros Syrah 2006 Sonoma County: very spicy and
reminiscent of Northern Rhone, some age behind it at this point.
+955435, $17.95, QPR: 90
3. Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo:
concentrated flavours of chocolate, pepper. A year in French oak. First
class cabernet sauvignon. 14.5% ABV. +684597, $15, QPR: 91.
4. Henry's Drive Pillar Box Reserve Shiraz 2008 Padthaway South
Australia: tight, lean, concentrated black fruit. Peppery and herby.
15% ABV. +90324, $19.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau Haut-Cantiroy 2008 Graves: good development, maturing
nicely, earthy, smooth finish. +205559, $17.95, QPR: 90.
6. Chateau Hyot 2006 Cotes de Castillon: red fruit, merlot-driven,
great price, 12.5% ABV, gold medalist. +63537, $14.95, QPR: 90.
7. Mas des Bressades Cuvee Tradition 2009 Costieres de Nimes: syrah
really comes through, tarry, anise, mocha, good price. 13.5% ABV.
+143099, $14.95, QPR: 90.
8. Vecchia Cantina Terre di Rubinoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006:
nicely aged, nicely done. It has been awhile since the LCBO has had a
modestly priced VNM. +206862, $17.95, QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2008 VQA Vinemount Ridge
Niagara, +126433, $35.20 retail.
2. Rodney Strong Reserve Chardonnay 2007 Russian River Sonoma County,
+210039, $34.95.
3. Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough, +10421, $21.95.
4. Gautheron Chablis 2008, +207902, $22.95.
5. Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Spatlese 2008 QmP Wehlener Sonnenuhr,
+197186, $21.95.
6. Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Estate 2006, +89284, $44.95.
7. Rodney Strong Merlot 2006 Sonoma County, +497933, $22.95.
8. Calera Pinot Noir 2008 Central Coast, +933044, $32.95.
9. Two Hands Lily's Garden Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale South Australia,
+683086, $54.95.
10. Selection Laurence Feraud Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, +211474,
$42.95.
11. Marques de Murrieta Finca Ygay Reserva 2005 Rioja, +209148, $24.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

18. A FEAST FOR ALL SEASONS; traditional native peoples' cuisine
(Arsenal Pulp Press, 2010, 151 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-368-2, $24.95
CAD soft covers) is by Andrew George Jr. and Robert Gairns. George was
most recently head chef at the Four Host First Nations pavilion at the
2010 Winter Olympics. He was also involved with the World Culinary
Olympics as part of the first all-Native team in the competition's
history. He instructs at the Kla-how-eya cooking school. Gairns is a
writer-playwright. The book was earlier published as "Feast!" by
Doubleday Canada in 1997. It's part memoir (updated, of course) and
part cookbook, with 120 recipes that feature foods from native areas of
Canada, such as salmon and fiddleheads, wild duck, oysters, beaver, and
bear. It is a unique book: the original was well-worn and tattered-
splattered through many kitchens over the past 13 years. The emphasis
is on "feast" foods and ceremonies, for a gathering small or large; it
could even be a family dinner. There are cultural food notes, with
specific material about the salmon harvest, bannock, and wild rice.
Half of the recipes are in the seasonal menus beginning with autumn;
the other half are from the waters, the earth, land and the skies. The
eight menus have page references to the recipes used. You'll need
access to a lot of wild food in order to do these recipes. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. Try moose
chili or moose cutlets, wild goose stuffed with apples, smoked salmon
on bannock fingers, seafood chowder, spirit braid seafood platter, and
any of the delicious soups. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

19. WHY ITALIANS LOVE TO TALK ABOUT FOOD (Farrar, Straus and Giroux,
2006, 2010, 449 pages, ISBN 978-0-374-53253-6 $18 US soft covers) is by
Elena Kostioukovitch, a translator (Umberto Eco) and essayist. It was
originally published in Italian in 2006, and then in English in 2009.
This is its paperback reprint edition, with log rolling by Jacques
Pepin and Tom Colicchio. It is billed as "a journey through Italy's
regional cuisines". Each region is discussed with its history,
geography and culture as it all pertains to food. Wine is not covered,
although Campari is mentioned. Each area has a set of sidebars which
lists dishes, food ingredients and drinks. It's an academic book, with
an extensive 23 page bibliography, end notes, and two food sections:
cooking methods in English for an Italian phrase, and pairings of pasta
shapes with sauces. It's a good book, long on culture and Mediterranean
Diet and Slow Food (as well as pilgrims and Jews), but I still don't
see WHY Italians love to talk about food. Quality/price rating: 90.

 

20. HOW BAKING WORKS. 3rd edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 516 pages,
ISBN 978-0-470-39267-6, $45 US soft covers) is by Paula Figoni, a
professor at the College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University
in Providence, Rhone Island. She had earlier worked for the Pillsbury
Company. The first edition was created for students in 2003. This
latest version incorporates changes on health and wellness in baking
(special diets, food sensitivities, food allergies), changes due to the
switch away from trans fats, changes in the student exercises and
experiments, more questions, drawing and charts, and some simplified
explanations for the chemistry behind such functions as emulsification.
A useful book for both students and short-order cooks. Quality/price
rating: 86.

 

21. ANJUM'S NEW INDIAN (Alhambra Editions, 2010, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-
84400-954-1, $14.95 CAD soft covers) is by Anjum Anand, who hosts the
TV show "Indian Food Made Easy" in the UK. Here, she collates many
recipes from her best-selling book based on the TV show which has the
same title, along with some fave regional Indian dishes. The emphasis
is on light, modern, and simple Indian food. There are over 100 dishes
here, arranged by ingredient (fish, meat, beans, etc.) with separate
chapters for snacks, light meals, desserts, drinks and chutneys. There
is also a short discourse on regional foods, common ingredients, and
basic recipes for masala, yogurt, and paneer. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents. Because of the "perfect" binding, the book is
awkward when open, so be careful. What works well in this basic book?
Tomato-poached eggs, quick brad and veggie stir-fry, chicken dhansak,
Bengali fish stew, mung lentil curry, Punjabi lamb chops. Quality/price
rating: 86.

 

22. MAKING SENSE OF WINE TASTING; your essential guide to enjoying
wine. 5th ed. (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2010; distr. by McArthur & Co.,
174 pages, ISBN 978-1-891267-03-1, $34.95 CAD soft covers) is by Alan
Young, founder of the International Wine Academy, based in San
Francisco. This is his 19th book; it was first published in London
England in 1986 and has been revised and updated several times. Paul
Rigby contributes some engaging and hilarious cartoons, while Robert
("Himself") Parker Jr. gives some log rolling. The emphasis is on
sight, touch, smell and taste (but can't you also hear the bubbles in
crackling wine? Just wondering…). New this edition is the concept of
umami. There are photos, cartoons, charts, and highlighted passages
(for the kernel material). Plus there are plenty of exercises for self-
study pr as part of a class experience. In addition, there's ancillary
material on glassware, wine judging, setups, and bibliographies for
further reading. This is a must read. Quality/price rating: 92.

 

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

February 2011: Some new wines to taste

1. Mission Hill Family Estate Winery sent me some 2009 samples, and
their cover letter suggested that the wines would be appropriate for a
Holiday Dinner over Christmas. So I tried them that way. First up was
Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2009 Okanagan ($19.95 Vintages),
with its traditional MVC style for a subdued grassy Savvy. On the
palate, there was a certain creaminess or unctuousness cause by barrel
fermentation of a small parcel of the wine. It went well with our
appetizers and salads. The main course was turkey, and Mission Hill
Chardonnay Reserve 2009 Okanagan ($19.95 Vintages Essential) went
first, followed by the Mission Hill Pinot Noir Five Vineyards 2009
Okanagan ($16.45 LCBO General List). The white was coolish climate
style, and despite partial BF and BA (on lees for seven months), it was
smooth and well-balanced without oaky spices. Just a little vanilla to
temper the citrus acidity. Don't over-chill this wine; in fact, serve
it at the same cool temperature as the Pinot Noir, which showed red
fruit, finishing tannins, and some underbrush. It was all fermented in
French oak barrels for 7.5 months. Dinner concluded with the opulent
Mission Hill Riesling Icewine 2009 Okanagan (about $60, not yet
available in Ontario), 8.5% ABV, succulent orange and peach flavours
that may perhaps need some more aging time to resolve the sweetness.
Fatty cheeses were provided for the long, over-the-top finish.
 
2. From the Kolonaki Group (sales@kolonakigroup.com):
-Sula Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Nashik Estate +660209, $11.95
Vintages: a neighbour raved about this wine. She had some of it in
India (the country of origin), and retried it at my place. It's lightly
herby with bracing acidity. It went well with our pesto pizza. 13.5%
ABV, twist top.
-Eradus Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough Awatere Valley +225557, $17.95
Vintages April 30/11: stony terraces gave this herbaceous-fruity wine
an oomph on the finish with concentrated minerality. 13% ABV, twist
top.
The agency is principally known for Greek wines such as –
-Boutari Grand Reserve 2004 Naoussa +140111, $16.95 Vintages April
30/11: from the xinomavro grape variety, 13% ABV. Somewhat gamey with
underbrush and earthy components, but well-concentrated fruit flavours
for food. Oak aged, approachable in the mid-palate.
-Boutari Santorini 2009 +47985, $15.95 Vintages April 16/11: full-
bodied, affordable version of wine from the white assyrtiko grape
variety. Expect citrus and minerals, some bracing acidity, much like a
Chablis. 13.5% ABV. Best with seafood.

 

3. ST. DONATUS IRSAI OLIVÉR BALATONLELLEI Garamvári Vineyard
2009 Hungary, VINTAGES  +12070, $12.95: 12.5% ABV. Irsai Olivér is a
cross between the Pozsony and Pearl of Csaba grapes. Floral, Muscat-y
and mint-scented. Useful on its own, or with Asiatic dishes. Perhaps
best in the summer, so buy now.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Jan 30/11: Equifera Icewine by Ziraldo launches at Rosewater in Toronto

The Time and Date: Sunday January 30, 2011  6PM to 7 PM
The Event: Launch of Equifera Icewine by Donald Ziraldo, CM
The Venue: Rosewater Restaurant
The Target Audience: friends and wine media.
The Availability/Catalogue: Equifera Estate Icewine is available
through Mondia Alliance agents.
The Quote/Background: Equifera Estate is across the road from Henry of
Pelham winery, and is owned by Kruger Wines who also make Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay. Donald Ziraldo was asked to make an icewine for them.
The Wines: There were 650 cases of the 2009 Riesling ($69 for 375 mL:
bracing, lush, firm citric tones on longer finish), 1500 cases of the
2008 Vidal ($49, not tasted because Chef at Rosewater used the
allotment for cooking later that night), and 200 cases of Cabernet
Franc ($ n/a, limited supply).
The Food: platters were devoted to three recipes from Ziraldo's book
"Icewine". We had copious quantities of such amuse bouche as truffled
cream of cauliflower soup with icewine; icewine marinated pork
medallions with a corn-crusted onion ring; and an icewine and thyme
grilled fig salad with gorgonzola and sherry vinaigrette.
The Downside: it was a cold night outside, but then that's icewine for
you…
The Upside: the event nicely dovetailed with an Opera in Concert at the
St. Lawrence Centre that just concluded 20 minutes before, and I was
able to bring my wife along.
The Contact Person: dziraldo@hotmail.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Feb 19/11: LCBO Vintages Release (some notes)

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR  FEBRUARY 19, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calamus Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 Niagara: juicy, ripe, long finish.
Twist top. +210062, $13.95, QPR: 90.
2. Alamos Viognier 2010 Mendoza: plenty of orchard fruit and flowers
here, long fruity finish. +507830, $13.95, QPR: 90.
3. Emiliana Adobe Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Casablanca Valley: ripe peachy
flavours come across with the citrus-herby zest. Sipper? Organic wine.
+211912, $12.95, QPR: 89.
4. Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough: zesty, balanced, long
finish, enjoyable Loire-ish wine. Sip or with food. Gold Medalist.
+686675, $15.95, QPR: 90.
5. Domaine Saint-Remy reserve Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: a climate-
change wine, with more off-dry MVC for the variety. Slight bitterish
finish, but dense and concentrated flavours and body. +61150, $18.95,
QPR: 91.
6. Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbes Riesling 2007 Alsace: long
riesling finish with good MVC. Delightful. Best with food. +981662,
$18.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 California: a rock-steady value
wine, hitting all the California cabby notes. +537597, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Michel Torino Don David Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Cafayate
Valley Mendoza: high quality cab sauvignon (black currants, vanilla,
pepper) at this price. +974428, $12.95, QPR: 89.
3. Cathedral Cellar Triptych 2007 WO Coast Region South Africa: a value
blend of Bordeaux varieties with syrah, aged in new oak (on the nose),
mocha, cassis, and eucalyptus. +53124, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Chateau Saint-Roch Chimeres 2008 Cotes du Roussillon-Villages: 65
grenache/30 syrah/5 carignane blend, 14.5% ABV, off-dry finish. Late
winter BBQs?
5. Chateau Goudray Cuvee Excellence Rasteau 2009 Cotes du Rhone-
Villages: lovely black fruit from syrah and grenache, plums, smoke, and
the like. 14.5% ABV. Gold Medalist. +195032, $15.95, QPR: 90.
6. Louis Bernard Reserve de Bonpas Cotes du Rhone 2009: a G-S-M but
heavy syrah-inflected in flavours, 14% ABV. +194969, $13.95, QPR: 90.
7. Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 2008 IGT Maremma Toscana: lots of
black and dark flavours from berries and fruits, delicious length and
complexity. Italianate. +13755, $17.95, QPR: 90.
8. Herdade Paco do Conde 2007 Alentejano: lots of mocha but not off-dry
on mid-palate. Sip or food this treasure. +131821, $14.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Lailey Vineyard Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2009 Niagara River, +225474,
$24.95 retail.
2. Davis Bynum Chardonnay 2007 Russian River Valley, +205815, $24.95.
3. Domaine Masson-Blondelet Villa Paulus Pouilly-Fume 2008, +702878,
$24.95.
4. Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Proprietors' Grand Reserve Shiraz
2006, +33241, $24.95.
5. Candor Lot 2 Zinfandel California, +133389, $21.95.
6. Christian Moueix Napanook 2007 Napa, +212357, $53.95.
7. Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2005, +528356,
$51.95.
8. Abbazia Barolo 2005, +189787, $28.95.
9. Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006, +413179, $47.95.
10. Jean Leon Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Penedes, +401596, $28.95.

Jan 26/11: Autochthonous wines from Appellation Wines Agency

The Time and Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2011   2 to 4:30 PM
The Event: Sampling autochthonous wines available from Ken Hayden of
Appellation Wines.
The Venue: Jam Café, Cabbagetown
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: the wines are drawn from his Consignment
catalogue; Ken specializes in sourcing indigenous grape varieties from
France, Spain and Italy.
The Quote/Background: It is a trend now to produce indigenous grape
varieties in small lots, for there will always be a market for these
types of grapes.
The Wines: All wines are available though the Consignment program, some
prices are being sorted out, but mostly under $20.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-2005 Vera de Estenas Casa Don Angel Bobal DO, Utiel-Requena, Spain
(red) $36.10 (my fave)
-2009 Emilio Bulfon Cjanòrie VDT, Friuli, Italy (red) $21.05
-2009 Rebus Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato DOC, Piedmont, Italy (red)

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-2007 Chateau Lecusse Cuvee Speciale Fer Servadou AGC, Gaillac, France
(red) $16.95 Gold Medalist
-2007 Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo Menguante Vidadillo DO, Carinena, Spain
(red)
-2009 Emilio Bulfon Sciaglin IGT, Friuli, Italy (white) $21.05
-2009 Emilio Bulfon Forgiarin IGT, Friuli, Italy (red) $21.05
-2009 Emilio Bulfon Piculit Neri IGT, Friuli, Italy (red) $22.91
-2008 Pravis Negrara IGT, Trentino Alto Adige, Italy (red) $21.36
-2009 Nivascio Piemonte Brachwetto DOC, 6% ABV, sparkling red

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-2008 Vins Plageoles Mauzac Vert AGC, Gaillac, France (white) $21.45
-2009 Chateau Cransac N Resolument Negrette AFC, Fronton, France (red)
$19.05
-2008 Anna Spinato Raboso IGT, Veneto, Italy (red) $16.90
-2009 La Martana Monferrato Freisa (vivace) DOC, Piedmont, Italy (red)
-2009 Le Nocche Grignolino d'Asti DOC, Piedmont, Italy (red)

 

The Food: prosciutto, cheeses, breads.
The Downside: I was stymied, trying to compare varieties with varieties
I knew well, as a touchstone.
The Upside: a rare opportunity to taste a variety of wines, well-made
but with different tastes.
The Contact Person: kenhayden@appellationwines.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Jan 27/11: Rhone Valley wine tasting at George.

The Time and Date: Thursday, Jan 27, 2011  11 AM to 3 PM
The Event: "Come to explore the Wine Region of the Year...Rhone Valley
Wines."
The Venue: George Restaurant
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: tasted wines came from the LCBO and
Vintages listings.
The Quote/Background: Christian Paly, President of Inter Rhône, Arnaud
Pignol, Commissioner General of Inter-Rhône and Olivier Legrand, Export
Marketing Manager of Inter Rhône came to Toronto to meet major
journalists in an informal and friendly Rhône Valley wines tasting.
There was a short slide presentation and some talks on the quality of
Rhone wines.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Mas Neuf Costieres de Nimes 2008, +177097, $11.35 - brett
-Dom. Courbis Les Eygats Cornas 2007, +719385, $59

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Jean-Luc Colombo Les Lauves Saint Joseph 2007, +943324, $31.95
-Reserve Perrin Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2009, +499509, $14.95
-La Vieille Ferme Luberon Blanc 2009, +298505, $11.95
-Ogier Cotes de Ventoux Rose 2009, +134916, $10.95
-Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rose 2009, +739474, $15.95
-Ogier Cotes de Ventoux Rouge 2008, +569095, $10.95
-Chapoutier Rasteau Cotes du Rhone Villages 2008, +321539, $17.95
-Domaine Autrand Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007, +200030, $14.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2009, +589432, $11.65
-Cuvee Tableau Tavel Rose 2008, +117309, $18.98
-Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2009, +581645, $12.15
-Visan Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007, +179226, $13.95
-Domaine de Pierredon Cotes du Rhone 2008, +175257, $13.95

 

The Food: the tasting was followed by a lunch, and we could re-taste
all the wines that we wanted. With BC rock shrimp (with Belgian endive
and Brazil nut curry) I had Le Vielle Ferme Luberon Blanc 2009. The
duck breast and duck confit duo (with barley risotto and broccoli)
screamed out for the brett-inflected Chateau Mas Neuf 2008. The beef
tenderloin paired very well with the still evolving Les Eygats Cornas
2007. Cheeses, dark chocolate beignets, and coffee completed the long
lunch.
The Downside: we started late because winter blizzards delayed the
principals' arrival in Toronto from New York city, where the Rhone
Valley had just won Wine Enthusiast's "Wine Region of the Year" award.
The Upside: I really liked the Chateau Mas Neuf's price for the brett
component. A little goes a long way, and the wine had sufficient brett
to make it interesting and gamey.
The Contact Person: Johanna.raynaud@sopexa.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Jan 25/11: Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux parades 2008 wines in Toronto

The Time and Date: Tuesday January 25, 2011  2 PM to 4 PM
The Event: Discover Bordeaux 2008; Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux
Taste and Buy, sponsored by LCBO Vintages.
The Venue: Four Seasons Hotel
The Target Audience: trade show in afternoon, consumers at night,
purchases only on the spot.
The Availability/Catalogue: there were over 100 wines from over 70
chateaux available for instant purchase in three-bottle lots.
The Quote/Background: It was a mixed vintage, with many green flavours
scattered through the cabernet franc- and sauvignon-based Left Bank
wines. St. Julien was a shade higher. The merlot wines were more
successful (St. Emilion and Pomerol).
The Wines:  I did not try the Sauternes. Prices are retail.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Smith Haute Lafitte 2008 Blanc, $115
-Latour Martillac 2008 Blanc, $147
-Pape Clement 2008 Blanc, $265
-Angélus 2008, $299
-Canon La Gaffelière 2008, $85
-Pape Clement 2008 Rouge, $175
-Beychevelle 2008, $59
-Gruaud-Larose 2008, $95
-La Gaffelière 2008, $79
-Cantemerle 2008, $38
-Citran 2008, $25
-Dauzac 2008, $62
-Lascombes 2008, $79
-Malescot Saint-Exupery 2008, $59
-Prieure-Lichine 2008, $65
-Leoville-Barton 2008, $149
-Léoville Poyferré 2008, $84
-Pichon Longueville Baron 2008, $115

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Figeac 2008, $109
-Clos Fourtet 2008, $72
-Troplong-Mondot 2008, $115
-Gazin 2008, n/a
-Lagrange 2008, $59
-Batailley 2008, $55
-Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2008, $109
-Lafon-Rochet 2008, $54
-Rahoul 2008 Rouge, $25
-Domaine de Chevalier 2008 Blanc, $119
-Larrivet Haut-Brion 2008 Rouge, $49
-Malartic-Lagraviere 2008 Blanc, $99
-Pape Clement 2008 Rouge, $175
-Trotte Vieille 2008, $99
-Clinet 2008, $219
-La Conseillante 2008, $109
-Fourcas-Hosten 2008, $26
-Chasse-Spleen 2008, $39
-Belgrave 2008, $35
-La Lagune 2008, $85
-La Tour Carnet 2008, $45
-Durfort-Vivens 2008, $49
-Giscours 2008, $59
-Kirwan 2008, $69
-Marquis de Terme 2008, $45
-Rauzan-Segla 2008, $99
-Haut-Bages-Liberal 2008, $44
-Beaumont 2008, $22
-Langoa-Barton 2008, $59
-Talbot 2008, $65
-Clerc Milon 2008, $59
-D'Armailhac 2008, $52
-Lynch-Bages 2008, $189
-De Pez 2008, $39

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chantegrive Blanc 2008, $33
-Chantegrive 2008 Rouge, $25
-Rahoul 2008 Blanc, $25
-Bouscaut 2008 Rouge, $35
-Carbonnieux 2008 Blanc, $55
-Carbonnieux 2008 Rouge, $49
-Domaine de Chevalier 2008 Rouge, $65
-Fieuzal 2008 Blanc, $75
-Fieuzal 2008 Rouge, $42
-Haut-Bailly 2008, $95
-Haut-Bergey 2008, $39
-Larrivet Haut-Brion 2008 Blanc, $62
-Latour-Martillac 2008 Rouge, $45
-Malartic-Lagraviere 2008 Rouge, $59
-Smith Haut Lafitte 2008 Rouge, $79
-Beau-Sejour Becot 2008, $75
-Canon 2008, $99
-Dassault 2008, $49
-Grand Mayne 2008, $64
-Cos-Labory 2008, $49
-La Couspaude 2008, $65
-La Dominique 2008, $59
-Berliquet 2008, $49
-Larcis Ducasse 2008, $125
-Beauregard 2008, $49
-Poujeaux 2008, $39
-Greysac 2008, $26
-La Tour de By 2008, $28
-Brane-Cantenac 2008, $59
-du Terte 2008, $45
-Labegorce 2008, $39
-Ferriere 2008, $39
-Branaire Ducru 2008, $63
-Saint-Pierre 2008, $65
-Lynch-Moussas 2008, $45
-Grand Puy Ducasse 2008, $49
-Ormes de Pez 2008, $38
-Phelan Segur 2008, $49

 

The Food: cheese platters, breads, dried fruit, grapes.
The Downside: a mouth full of tannin after it was all over.
The Upside: a chance to re-evaluate the 2008 Bordeaux vintage.
The Contact Person: trina.hendry@lcbo.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 92.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Feb 5/11: LCBO Vintages Release (some notes)

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 5, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com.
My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calina Chardonnay Reserva 2009 Casablanca/Limari Valleys: tropical
fruit and lumber for the woodies, nice balance, great sipper. +640912,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
2. Zilzie Murray Darling Regional Collection Chardonnay 2009 Victoria:
loaded with goodness, oak, whiff of tropicality, toast-butter-vanilla.
Decent price. +186411, $17.95, QPR: 90.
3. La Cave de Sigolsheim Reserve Particuliere Muscat 2008 Alsace: dry
muscat tones, excellent body, flowers and orchard fruit. Gold Medalist.
+202408, $15.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Diamond Ridge Zinfandel 2007 Howell Mountain Napa: balanced and
well-integrated MVC zinfandel complexity, good price. +205781, $17.95,
QPR: 90.
2. Our Daily Red 2009 California: very good basic blended red wine,
reminiscent of the South of France. Fully Organic. +203851, $14.95,
QPR: 89.
3. Columbia Crest H3 Merlot 2007 Horse Heaven Hills Columbia Valley:
hefty, chunky merlot featuring both red and black berries, drying out
nicely on the finish. 14.5% ABV. +209874, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. R.J. Vinedos Pasion 4 Merlot 2008 Uco Valley Mendoza: North American
styled merlot, with mocha and smoke, black currants, long finish.
+59287, $12.95, QPR: 90.
5. Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Founder's Reserve Shiraz 2007
Langhorne Creek: deliciously black (mocha, berries, eucalyptus), wood
on finish. Needs food. 14% ABV. +107904, $19.95, QPR: 90.
6. Chateau Le Grand Moulin 2008 Premieres Cotes de Blaye: an MVC
Bordeaux bargain for a Gold Medalist. Smoke, toast, black fruit,
complex finish. +198994, $15.95, QPR: 90.
7. Domaine de Peyanne 2009 Saumur: good cab franc MVC, nice and tart
for food, some berries on the nose. +197038, $13.95, QPR: 89.
8. Domaine Gardies Mas Las Cabes Rouge 2009 Cotes de Roussillon: rich,
developing, balance of fruit, hot 14% ABV, lots of dense body. +194894,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
9. Diego Conterno Baluma Nebbiolo d'Alba 2008: poor man's Barolo, but
see also below at $26.95. Evolving nicely. +189829, $18.95, QPR: 89.
10. Tenuta Moraia Pietracupa Bolgheri 2007: cabernet makes this a
Bordeaux-styled wine, extremely beneficial price, long finish. +211458,
$18.95, QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Jean-Max Roger Cuvee C.M. Sancerre Blanc 2008, +196667, $24.95
retail.
2. Maison Kerlann Chablis 2008, +158964, $21.95.
3. Frog's Leap Merlot 2007 Rutherford Napa, +707489, $44.95.
4. Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Sonoma, +226944, $22.95.
5. Elderton Shiraz 2007 Barossa, +713024, $32.95.
6. Chateau Reysson 2005 Haut-Medoc, +199083, $21.95.
7. Abbona La Pieve Barolo 2005, +213132, $26.95.
8. Brancaia Tre 2007 IGT Toscana, +164715, $24.95.
9. Icario Vino Nobile di Monepulciano 2007, +203430, $31.95.
10. Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2007, +704346, $26.95.
11. I Casteil Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006, +739979, $34.95
12. Vina Vilano Reserva 2004 Ribera del Duero, +190736, $22.95.
13. Bodegas Lan Vina Lanciano Reserva 2004, +955096, $28.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

FOOD Book of the Month!!

 THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE (John Wiley and Sons, 2011, 388 pages, ISBN
978-0-470-19741-7, $65 US hard covers) is by the Culinary Institute of
America and John Kowalski, a professor at the CIA. Charcuterie has
moved out from its rare artisanal practices to the mainstream. It is
one of the hottest new items in North American restaurants, and, of
course, the CIA with its more than 40,000 alumni wants to be there with
it. So here is the book, covering pates, terrines, cured meats, and
sausages. Kowalski and his team detail ingredients, equipment,
sanitation, techniques and processes (brining, curing, smoking et al).
There's a separate chapter on spices, herbs and seasonings. And there's
also an interesting section on preservatives and how to substitute,
plus alternative ways to preserve that are virtually chemical-free.
There's a concluding chapter with preps and ideas for complementary
condiments such as a variety of cold sauces, gelatins, oils, relish,
chutney, pickles, and compote: orange marmalade and jalapeno sauce;
fresh plum and horseradish coulis; cinnamon-rum applesauce; Cajun-style
lime and mustard-seed dressing; pickled lady apples. The layout is
first-rate, with larger typefaces (especially good in the index).
Photos are informative. There are charts
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks, restaurant chefs, schools of
hospitality libraries.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: dry-rub barbecued bacon;
dry-cured pancetta; beef jerky; campagne forcemeat; chicken galantine;
tete pressee; buffalo wing-style sausages; weisswurst; duck sausage.
The downside to this book: it lacks excitement and a "wow" factor since
it is a text.
The upside to this book: quantities are reasonable; you should make at
least 11 pounds of sausages at one go just to be efficient.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 ..is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

 

7. MY SWEET MEXICO; recipes for authentic pastries, breads, candies,
beverages, and frozen treats (Ten Speed Press, 2010, 217 pages, ISBN
978-1-58008-994-4, $30 US hard covers) is by pastry chef Fany Gerson, a
CIA grad who has worked in many Spanish and Mexican restos. She now
splits her time between NYC and Mexico; she also runs
www.mysweetmexico.com. This cookbook, with log rolling from Bayless and
others, does give us a unique contribution in that it is solely devoted
to the desserts side of Mexican cuisine. It is part memoir as well as
culinary cultural history. She begins with bebidas (beverages), moving
on to sweets put together by nuns, and then to corn, heirloom sweets,
morning sweet breads, fruit, desserts, and frozen foods. There is also
a section on modern Mexico, with piloncillo-roasted pears with cheese
pastry, a passion fruit mexcal trifle, mango bread puddings with
tamarind sauce, an upside-down plantain cake, and a cheesecake with
spiced quince. Many indigenous ingredients are used, such as sweet
maguey plants, mesquite, honeys, and cacao. There's an all-US sources
list plus a bibliography. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there are metrics table of equivalents. A
very prominent contribution to culinary literature. Quality/Price
rating: 90.

 

8. THE OCEAN WISE COOKBOOK; seafood recipes that are good for the
planet (Whitecap, 2010, 322 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-016-7, $34.95
Canadian paper covers) is a collection of preps from chefs and
restaurants from across Canada, although most of them are from the West
Coast. It's an accessible guide to sustainable seafood and freshwater
fish, which the index indicates ranges from abalone to yellow perch.
Some rarities include jellyfish, geoduck, and sea urchin. Jane Mundy, a
professional cook and writer, did the editorial work. Ocean Wise is a
nationwide conservation program created by the Vancouver Aquarium to
educate restaurants and consumers about the issues surrounding
sustainable seafood: it has over 200 members. 139 recipes feature about
45 types of seafood – and each prep is sourced as to chef. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. After a discussion
on sustainability, farmed versus wild, fresh versus frozen, and storage
for fish, the preps are listed in course order from apps to mains, with
chapters on "one-pots" and canned foods. But this is not all fin; some
fur is involved with an octopus and sausage prep, and a mussels and
sausage recipe. Try fish cakes with wasabi pea puree and wilted pea
shoot salad, or sake-marinated barramundi with ginger, or prosciutto
and rosemary-wrapped halibut, or coconut scallop bisque with prawns. A
very worthwhile book. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

9. THE GEOMETRY OF PASTA (Quirk Books, 2010; distr. Raincoast, 288
pages, ISBN 978-1-59474-495-2, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Jacob
Kenedy, co-owner of Bocca di Lupo in London, voted a best restaurant by
Time Out and the Evening Standard. Caz Hildebrand is well known as the
designer of best-selling cookbooks. Log rolling includes Nigella
Lawson. Their book pairs over 100 recipes from Kenedy with Hildebrand's
black-and-white designs. Kenedy describes each pasta shape (wheels,
tubes, fantasy, twists, folds, grooves) and then prepares some sauces
for them. He begins with agnolotti, which are raviolis made from one
piece of pasta folded in half. There's a dimensions panel, a list of
synonyms, and how the pasta was used historically. Then he tells how to
make it, and gives recipes for sauces. Here, he has a walnut sauce, but
one can also use a butter and sage sauce, do an "in brodo" or go with a
tomato sauce. And, of course, there's a nice silhouette pattern by
Hildebrand, which I assume some enterprising business will turn into a
patterned fabric. He ends with ziti, also known as candele, which can
be used in a timballo and in ziti lardati (both recipes given). Other
variations would include using ziti with ricotta and tomato, with a
Napoli ragu, with lentils, al forno, or even a arrabbiata sauce.
There's an index of sauces, in both Italian and English. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no metric table of equivalents. This is a very useful reference book,
to both cooks and chefs alike. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

10. BAREFOOT CONTESSA, how easy is that (Clarkson Potter, 2010, 256
pages, ISBN 978-0-307-23876-4, $35 US hard covers) is by Ina Garten,
who has written six other cookbooks and hosts "Barefoot Contessa" on
Food Network plus writes a monthly column. It neatly continues the
parade of easy cooking books that promise quick and flavourful meals at
a low cost. This particular book is being promoted as "her easiest
recipes ever". It helps to have a mise en place, sharp knives, proper
equipment, and a cocktail before starting. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents. The arrangement is by course, beginning with
starters, lunch, dinner, veggies, and dessert. There's about 100
recipes here, with variations. Simple preps include roasted figs and
prosciutto, chipotle and rosemary roasted nuts, beef barley soup,
herbed ricotta bruschettas, Greek panzanella, tuna and hummus
sandwiches, bangers and mustard mash. Nice large type with plenty of
leading so there are no excuses for home cook errors. Quality/price
rating: 84.

 

 

 

11. IN A PINCH; effortless cooking for today's gourmet (Whitecap, 2010,
204 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-026-6, $29.95 paper covers) is by Caren
McSherry, owner of Vancouver's Gourmet Warehouse. She also appears on
Global TV every Saturday. The book promises that she "will show you how
to make a five-star meal in no time flat", which is an honourable
intention but only if you follow through on it. Log rolling comes from
fellow west-coasters such as John Bishop and Vikram Vij. So this
collection of gourmet secrets and shortcuts relies on planning, a mise
en place, and a pantry. Not to mention a cool demeanor. There's also
the matter of proper equipment and proper plates. The arrangement is by
course, apps to desserts, with a collection of resources from around
the world. Her pantry has 10 "must-have" ingredients; he kitchen has 11
utensils "I can't live without". Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of equivalents. Typical recipes include fresh fig and chevre
rolls, quick bouillabaisse [west coast], Reggiano cheese sticks,
zabaglione, BBQ duck pizza, chocolate coconut cups. Quality/price
rating: 85.

 

 

 

12. THE FOOD NETWORK SOUTH BEACH WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL COOKBOOK; recipes
and behind-the-scenes stories from America's hottest chefs (Clarkson
Potter, 2010, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-46016-5, $35 US hard covers)
has been collated by Lee Brian Schrager (founder of the festival) with
food writer and editor Julie Mautner. For one long weekend each year,
hot chefs drop in on South Beach to work one of the world's largest
kitchens. This cookbook features 100 recipes and stories about
celebrity chefs such as Bobby Flay, Paula Deen (double chocolate gooey
butter cake), Mario Batali, Rachael Ray (Cubano burger with mango
salsa), Martha Stewart (lobster roll), Alice Waters (grapefruit and
avocado salad), Rick Bayless (brava steak), Nigella Lawson (caramel
croissant pudding), and others. It's been a leading "meet and greet"
fundraiser function for a decade, and this book celebrates ten years
worth of preps (about ten recipes per year). Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents. And with an easy to read layout. Quality/Price
rating: 84.

 

13. THE VEGAN GIRL'S GUIDE TO LIFE; cruelty-free crafts, recipes,
beauty secrets and more (Skyhorse Publishing, 2010; distr. T. Allen,
224 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-092-1 $21.50 CAD soft covers) is by
Melisser Elliott, founder of Sugar Beat Sweets Bakery, San Francisco's
first vegan bakery. She has also been featured in just about every
vegan lifestyle publication, as well as television. Here she gives us
the basics of vegan lifestyle, which includes clothes and cosmetics.
There are also recipes for foods as well as instructions for making
your own clothes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Try banana bread French toast, two-bean confetti hash, apple sage rice
stuffed acorn squash, almond-lime cake, purple cow cupcakes. The book
lacks an index, which I calculate to be a serious defect in the
retrieval of information. Otherwise, it is pretty nifty, with an
excellent chapter on transitioning to vegan. Quality/price rating: 80.

 

14. NEW ORLEANS KITCHENS; recipes from the Big Easy's best restaurants
(Gibbs Smith, 2010, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-1001-4, $30 US hard
covers) has been pulled together by Stacey Meyer (CIA grad now working
with Emeril Lagasse) and Troy Gilbert (free lance writer). It's a basic
New Orleans cookbook augmented not by photos of plated dishes but by
photos of themed Louisiana work from local artists. It's a lot like an
earlier series showcasing Santa Fe art and food. There are a few short
notes on New Orleans galleries and New Orleans food and chefs. Each
prep comes with a source, such as the white truffle bean dip from Tom
Wolfe of Peristyle, or smoked duck breast pain perdu with Fontina
cheese and cane syrup from Greg Poole of The Bistro at the Maison de
Ville, or shrimp remoulade from Brian Landry, executive chef of
Galatoire's. Another 25 recipes come from Stacey and/or her mother,
Mary Ann Meyer. Chefs, restaurants, museums, galleries, and artists are
also cited in the resources section, with addresses and websites and
phone numbers. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents.
Great photos of local art and a well-designed large typeface layout
completes the picture. Oh, yes: the recipes also include the basic po'
boys, jambalaya, gumbo, etouffee, and oysters. Quality/price rating:
89.

 

 

 

15. SWALLOW THIS; the progressive approach to wine (20 Sips LLC, 2009;
distr. McArthur, 2010, 342 pages, ISBN 978-0-615-30209-6 $24.95 CAD
soft covers) is by celebrity television star wine taster Mark Phillips,
who had a PBS show (now on DVD) about wine tasting. In addition to this
book, he also has audio books and DVDs on how to taste. The Progressive
Approach is entertaining, although some wine people cringe. Yes, he
says that there is a time to microwave wine. Yes, he tells you which
wine is best for wild sex (but because he didn't do an index, you
cannot find out which wine goes with pussy unless you read it from
cover to cover). Yes, there is a time to freeze wine. No, don't buy any
expensive wines. But you can tell what wine tastes like before opening
it. No, different shapes of glasses will alter wines but one shape
seems to be best above all (he has done the research and sells the
glasses). So: No, you don't need a collection of different shapes
(waste of money). Wine ratings are silly. Describing wine is for geeks.
And on and on. As he pointedly says, "Wine just adds an emotional
component, a pure sensual aspect to whatever you're doing. It is a
bonding beverage." Just don't overdo it, for alcohol kills. This is a
good bedtime read, to relax. BUT IT DOES NEED AN INDEX. Quality/price
rating: 82, probably up to 88 with an index.

 

16. FLOUR; spectacular recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Café
(Chronicle Books, 2010, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6944-7, $35 US hard
covers) is by owner Joanne Chang. She's also a food writer. Christie
Matheson is the focusing food editor. It's a basic book that can be
scooped up by her fans in the Boston area, or tourists who have visited
her place and want to replicate her foods in their own homes. There are
breakfast treats, cookies, cakes, pies, tarts, and breads – each with
its own chapter. The book opens with basic primer material plus her top
12 baking tips. These are so self-evident that they bear repeating
until they are drummed into everybody's head: preheat the oven, "mise"
everything, read the recipe, weigh your ingredients, toast your nuts,
roll out properly, make ahead, bake dough all the way through, and
others. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is also a table of equivalents. One
discouraging note: I found the typeface too faint. Try buttermilk
biscuits, berry bread pudding, plum clafoutis, hazelnut-vanilla ice
milk, or the dacquoise. Quality/Price rating: 87.

 

17. THE FRANKIES SPUNTINO KITCHEN COMPANION & COOKING MANUAL (Artisan
Books, 2010; distr. T. Allen, 234 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-415-3, $24.95
US hard covers) is by Frankie Falcinelli, Frank Castronovo and Peter
Meehan. The two Franks are co-chefs at Frankies Spuntino in New York
since it opened in 2004; spuntino means a casual Italian eatery. Log
rolling comes from Mario Batali, Paul Bocuse, and director Spike Jonze.
It is a good time, good feel book, with plenty of mozzarella and tomato
sauce. Italian cooking as we all used to know it. And there is lots of
memoir-type material here, with stories and photos of their lives and
the resto. It actually seems perfect as a guy's book since most of the
recipes are uncomplicated and reflective of grandmothers. Arrangement
is by course (antipasto to dolce). The appendices feature menus for
entertaining, pairing wines, cheeses, and how to fillet a sardine
(always useful). Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Try puntarelle with lemons, capers, anchovies, and pecorino romano. Or,
a sardine and blood orange salad, gnocchi marinara with fresh ricotta,
or linguine cacao e pepe. Quality/Price rating: 83.

 

 

 

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com