FOOD Book of the Month: ROOTS

ROOTS; the definitive compendium with more than 225
recipes (Chronicle Books, 2012, 431 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-
7837-1, $40US hard covers) is by Diane Morgan, award-
winning author of 17 other cookbooks and
www.dianemorgancooks.com. It comes with log rolling from
Elizabeth Andoh, Colman Andrews, and Deborah Madison. It's
encyclopedic and arranged by major tuber, from "Andean
tubers" to Yuca, with a sort chapter on other roots such as
arrowroot, chicory, coriander root, ginseng, kudzu,
groundnut, licorice, and turnip-rooted chervil. She tells
us where they developed and how they came to be first
eaten, varieties, nutrition, selection, storage, and what
best to do with them. This is followed by a variety of
recipes. The emphasis in the preps is international, and
all are flavourful and even exciting.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric
and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. There's even a bibliography for further
reading. This book adds to the public's knowledge of foods.
Audience and level of use: serious cooks, libraries.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: under
"arrowhead", there is persimmon and arrowhead; arrowhead
leak soup; roasted lemongrass chicken with arrowhead; and
clay pot-caramelized pork belly and arrowhead stew.
The downside to this book: too many potato and carrot
recipes? These could have been downplayed more, since most
other cookbooks include them.
The upside to this book: the typeface is above normal and
there is sufficient white space for adding notes.
Quality/Price Rating: 92.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

 1. Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2007, $20.95 (500 mL), +980805): Hungarian nectar, full of apricot, dried peach and orange peel. 13.5% ABV. Quality/price rating 89 points by Dean Tudor.

 

From Mountain Road Wine Company, a comparative chardonnay tasting from vines planted since 1983. They need to be opened early and not served too cold:

 

1. Mountain Road Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2005 S. Kocsis Vineyard Niagara, $12 at winery: some underbrush, mushrooms, forest floor, higher acid, oaky wonder. Great value at this price. 13.7 % ABV. Gold Medalist at 2010 Royal Winter Fair Toronto. Quality/price rating 91 points by Dean Tudor.

 

2. Mountain Road Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2006 S. Kocsis Vineyard Niagara, $15.95 at winery: delicious, balanced, more fruit than most, buttery and creamy. For the value of the dollar, best tasting wine of the four. 13.9% ABV. Quality/price rating 90 points by Dean Tudor.

 

3. Mountain Road Chardonnay Reserve 2005 S. Kocsis Vineyard Niagara, $22 at winery: on the label, this is also known as cHard Times. Short nose, but intense, long finish with higher acid. Very oaky, great for those who like the wood. 14.3% ABV. Quality/price rating 89 points by Dean Tudor.

 

4. Mountain Road Chardonnay Reserve 2006 S. Kocsis Vineyard VQA Beamsville Bench Niagara, $25.95 at winery: buttery, toasty, very complex and still evolving, no real sign of aging. 13.4% ABV. Gold Medalist at 2010 Cuvee (Niagara). Quality/price rating 91 points by Dean Tudor.

 

 

From Amethyst Wine Agency,

 

1. Gann Family Cellars Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2007, $29.95,  +311571 Jan Vintages: one of my recommended top wine values over $20 in the Jan 19 release, with full BF and BA, caramel, vanilla and butterscotch (but not too heavy), 14% ABV, from vines planted in 1978. There is to be a $3 LTO in Period 13. Quality/price rating 92 points by Dean Tudor.

 

2. McNab Ridge Winery Rousanne Mendocino 2009, $18.95, +312892 Jan Vintages: honeyed peach tones, some pie spices, all done up in stainless steel. This Rhone variety comes in at 14.5% ABV, bound to give viognier a run for its money. Aperitif wine or first course. Quality/price rating 89 points by Dean Tudor.

 

3. Quinta da Baixo 2008 Bairrada Tinto, $14.95, +293415 Vintages: from the baga and touriga nacional grapes, unfiltered, aged six months in French oak, 13% ABV, shows off top notes of red fruit and vanilla, could be served with meaty main, cheeses, or mocha-inspired desserts. Quality/price rating 87 points by Dean Tudor.

 

4. Southbank Estates Chardonnay 2010 Hawkes Bay New Zealand, $17.95, +278523 Vintages: aged 7 months in French oak, good balance between acid-vanilla-fruit, perhaps best in summer or with summer-y salad food, with a whopping 14.5% ABV (but no hot finish). Sustainably-produced, hand harvested Gold Medalist at New World Wine Awards. Quality/price rating 88 points by Dean Tudor.

 

From Groupe Kolonaki,

 

1. Eradus Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Awatere Valley New Zealand, +225557, $17 April 27 Vintages: fairly typical of Kiwi Savvies, but with tropical/floral top notes and a lingering herbal finish that is best with food (not as a sipper). Usually a proven winner since the 2006 vintage. 13.5% ABV, a bit higher this time around than before (about 13%). 2408 cases available! Quality/price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor.

 

2. Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, $18.95, +317313 March 2 Vintages: rare to find such value in Chianti Riserva under $20, selected as WOM by LCBO, 1400 cases available. Intervin Gold Medalist 2012, but still needs some time to come around with the tannins and 14% ABV. Berries dominate with pepper coming at the finish. If drinking now, do a double decant before serving. Quality/price rating 89 points by Dean Tudor.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 19, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 19, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Jordin The Prospector Syrah 2008 WO Stellenbosch: [Jordan in South
Africa, but they cannot use that name in North America because of a
trademark] delicious syrah, well-aged and North Rhone-dominant. Twist
top. 14.5% ABV. +296673, $19.95, QPR: 92.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2010 VQA Short Hills Bench Niagara:
good riesling intensity, and enough finishing acid so that it does not
taste M. 11% ABV. +557165, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Siete Fincas Chardonnay 2011 Mendoza: woody but balanced with
tropical tones and creamy vanilla. +222752, $14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Zonte's Footstep Excalibur Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Adelaide Hills South
Australia: done up in a Kiwi Savvy style, 13% ABV, twist top. +311456,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
4. Anne Boecklin Gewurztraminer 2010 Alsace: thick, unctuous, long
finish, reduced bitterness. Gold Medalist. 12.5% ABV. +141226, $18.95,
QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Ironstone Old Vine Zinfandel 2011 Lodi: full, plumy plush, chocolate
toast on the finish. Black fruit. Full bore at 14.5% ABV. +951889,
$17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Lamadrid Single Vineyard Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Argentina:
excellent winemaking to nail down the cabby MVC, 14.8% ABV. +223206,
$17.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chateau de Puisseguin Curat 2010 Puisseguin St-Emilion: Gold
Medalist in Paris, 14.5% ABV from the ripe merlot. Fruit, wood tones,
spices, some vague smokiness. +307140, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Masserie Pisari Primitivo 2010 IGT Salento Ross Puglia: the LCBO
Primitivo of the month, 14% ABV, still a bit tannic. +270306, $14.95,
QPR: 89.
5. Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2011 Camo de Borja Spain: a Chat Pape
knockoff all the way, from old vines, made at 14.5%. Plums,
blackberries, strawberries, leather, vanilla. +273748, $19.95, QPR: 90.
6. Corral Don Jacobo Reserva 2004 Rioja: terrific expression of an
affordable reserve Rioja, drying out nicely but lively, long food
finish. 13.5% ABV. +313270, $17.95, QPR: 90.
7. Luzon Seleccion 12 Meses Crianza 2008 Jumilla: done up in French oak
(80%) and US oak (20%), all toasted. Smoke and density prevail.
+310219, $15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Solar de Sael Crianza Mencia 2007 Bierzo: black fruit and substance,
delicious intensity from the mencia grape. 14% ABV. +311902, $15.95,
QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Quails' Gate Chardonnay 2011 VQA Okanagan, +377770, $20.95 retail.
2. Gann Chardonnay 2007 Russian River, +311571, $29.95.
3. C.H. Berres Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese 2010 Mosel,
+301952, $24.95.
4. Pascual Toso Alta Reserve Malbec 2009 Barrancas Vyd Mendoza,
+261958, $32.95.
5. Chain of Ponds The Ledge Shiraz 2008 Adelaide Hills South Australia,
+59899, $29.95.
6. Mount Langi Ghiran Kneebones Shiraz 2007, +295527, $21.95.
7. Fattoria de Piazzano Rio Camerata Chianti Riserva 2006, +301929,
$24.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

Drink Book of the Month: World Atlas of Beer

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
  ++++++++++++++++++++++

 

1. THE WORLD ATLAS OF BEER; the essential guide to the
beers of the world (Sterling Epicure, 2012, 256 pages, ISBN
978-1-4027-8961-8, $30 US hard covers) is by Tim Webb and
Stephen Beaumont, both internationally recognized beer
writers. Beaumont is actually a Torontonian, who has been
writing about beer for decades. This guide, originally
published in the UK by Mitchell Beazley earlier this year,
covers about 35 countries, with tasting notes for over 500
beers, some of them honest and brutal (e.g. Duvel). It
opens with basic primer data plus pictures of the process,
matching beer with food, and differences between craft
beers and mass-produced beers (really?). There are lagers,
pilsner, Trappist and Abbey Ales, stouts and porters, IPAs,
dark beers and bock, and "extreme beers". Now I know the
selection of beer is limited because of the pages available
(256 pages make for 16 signatures here), but there is a lot
of white space and more beers could have been commented on.
No space for Innis & Gunn? Shurely not…Nevertheless, it is
colourful, it does have label reproductions, it is
fastidious in its comments, there's a lot of good stuff
here, and the price is dirt cheap. You can get it from the
Book Depository (Guernsey) for $22.22 CAD with free
shipping and no taxes, which beats Amazon.Ca. So all in
all, it is a useful book, complementary to The Oxford
Companion to Beer (published earlier in the year at $65US
but with no colour), and a bargain price for what it is.
And it will be extremely useful for the average beer
drinker who wants to know a little bit about a lot of
things, as Peggy Lee used to sing.
Audience and level of use: beer lovers everywhere,
libraries.
Some interesting or unusual facts: It's somewhat strange
that an acknowledged international expert such as Beaumont
was not a contributor to The Oxford Companion to Beer,
while Tim Webb was. The Consultant Editor here, Joanna
Copestick, also a well known beer writer, was not a
contributor to the Oxford. Maybe that explains why The
Oxford Companion to Beer was not listed in the atlas's
bibliography. I'm just sayin'.
The downside to this book: there's not much of an Atlas-
feel. The maps are flat and variable. Some locate the
brewery (Netherlands), others do just craft breweries
(Ireland), and others do "breweries per 500,000 people
2011" (Germany), while others do tradition influences
(Canada).
The upside to this book: great looking pictures of people,
places and things, as well as beer labels and adverts.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

Review of BURMA -- cookbook by Naomi Duguid

BURMA; rivers of flavor (Random House Canada, 2012, 372 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-36216-2, $39.95 CAN hard covers) is by Naomi Duguid, the well-known Canadian author of many other Asian cookbooks for Random House Canada. Here she travels to Burma, a neglected culinary charm: Toronto, with some relatively rare cuisines, only has one Burmese restaurant, and that one, with a steam table, caters mostly to students as a takeout place. Burmese (Myanmar) cooking is similar to India, China and Thailand, but the spicing is different. For one thing, the Burmese use lots of different varieties of coriander; for another, there are lots of fresh herbs. Duguid has a primer on the basics of Burma (she's been going there for about 25 years), followed by chapters on courses or ingredients. There are salads, soups, veggies, fish and seafood, chicken, beef, pork, rice, noodles, sweets and sauces/condiments. There is also a chapter on drinks in Burma (tea and tea-shops), as well as beer and liquor (mostly rice liquor or arrack). She writes two sentences on wines – "Burma is starting to produce wine at several vineyards in the Inle Lake area. The industry is young but European winemakers are working to bottle light, drinkable reds and whites." She's also got some brief historical notes, some travel notes (hardly any credit cards are accepted, there were no ATMs by spring of 2012, tourist money is only in un-creased US dollars), an expanded glossary of food terms, and an annotated bibliography. Preparations, usually one to a page with accompanying food studio photo on the opposite page, have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents on the last page. And, of course, there is a major upside to this book: excellent location photography by Duguid. This is a first-rate effort, adding to our knowledge of the Asiatic culinary world.

Audience and level of use: Duguid fans, Asian food lovers, those desiring information about obscure cuisines. Let's be apolitical about the country's administrative function, for here, only food matters.

Some interesting or unusual recipes that we tried: curried chicken livers; intensely green spinach and tomato salad with peanuts; Mandalay noodles with chicken curry; fried sesame-seed bananas; crispy shallot and dried shrimp relish; deep-fried chayote fingers; new potatoes with spiced shallot oil; rice-batter crepes; shan tofu salad; tart-sweet chile-garlic sauce (hot stuff!); fish cakes and fish balls.

Quality/Price Rating: 92.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

French Wine Connection 2012 wine show Nov 13/12

The Date and Time: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 11AM to 5 PM
The Event: French Wine Connection 2012
The Venue: Park Hyatt
The Target Audience: agents and wine press
The Availability/Catalogue: some of the wineries already had agents,
probably because they were non repped in Alberta or BC where the show
continued.
The Quote/Background: There were 19 wineries, 5 of which already had
agents in Ontario, and some others had agents in Quebec, BC or
Newfoundland.
The Wines: some agency wines were on LCBO general list, others in
consignment, while others still were private orders. I did not taste
every wine.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Saint-Remy Gewurztraminer Reserve 2011, $17.95 +61150 Vintages
May 2013
-Dom. Saint-Remy Pinot Gris 2010 Grand Cru, $24.95 Eurovintage
-Marquis de Greysac 2009 Reserve Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux
-Dom. Gerard Tremblay Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2011
-Dom. Gerard Tremblay Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2010
-Mas de Theyron Les Murettes 2004 Languedoc
-Mas de Theyron Les Murettes 2005 Languedoc
-Domaine des Chaintres Sancerre 2011
-Jean Pabiot Cuvee Prestige des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fume 2010
Atlas
-Domaine Faury Condrieu 2010, $69 Barrel Select
-Domaine Faury Condrieu La Berne 2010, under $100 Barrel Select
-Domaine Faury St Joseph La Gloriette 2010 Barrel Select
-Domaine Faury IGP Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah 2011, $26 Barrel Select

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Ehrhart-Pfohl Riesling 2011, $13.95 +282186
-Dom. Saint-Remy Pinot Gris 2011, $14.95 Eurovintage
-Dom. Saint-Remy Cremant Brut NV, $17.95 Eurovintage
-Chateau Reverdi 2009 Listrac
-Chateau Les Paris 2008 Merlot Cabernet Sainte-Foy Bordeaux
-Dom. Gerard Tremblay Chablis 1er cru Montmain 2011
-Mas de Theyron Le Blanc 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc
-Mas de Theyron Les Amandiers 2005 IGP de la Benovie
-Mas de Theyron Les Galets 2005 Languedoc
-Domaine des Levrys Sancerre 2011
-Domaine des Coltabards Sancerre 2011
-Dom. Des Mariniers Pouilly-Fume 2011
-Dom. Pascal Bellier Cheverny Blanc 2011
-Dom. Philippe Portier 2011 Quincy
-La Quincyte de Philippe Portier 2010 Quincy
-Jean Pabiot La Merisiere Sancerre 2011 Atlas
-Saget La Perriere La Petite Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Churchill
-Chat. Morgues du Gres Terre d'Argence Rouge 2010 Costieres de Nimes
Rouge et Blanc
-Chat. Morgues du Gres Terre d'Argence Blanc 2010 Costieres de Nimes
Rouge et Blanc
-Domaine Faury St Joseph Hedonism 2010 Barrel Select
-Domaine Faury Cote Rotie Reviniscence 2010 Barrel Select

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Saint-Remy Riesling Reserve 2011, $17.95 Eurovintage
-Marquis de Greysac 2011 Sauvignon Bordeaux
-Marquis de Greysac 2011 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux Rose
-Chateau La Mondette 2010 Merlot Cabernet Cotes de Bordeaux
-Chateau Le Clairot 2009 Merlot Cabernet Bordeaux
-Guy Saget Sancerre 2011 LCBO
-Chat. Morgues du Gres Les Galets Dores Blanc 2011 Costieres de Nimes
Rouge et Blanc

The Food: charcuteries cold cuts, cheese, breads, water
The Downside: it did not seem too well attended, my guess is that there
were fewer people than last year.
The Upside: Domaine Faury, via Kermit Lynch selections (Barrel Select
in Ontario)
The Contact Person: elodie.morineau.INT@ubifrance.fr
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
86.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

18th annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo Nov 16/12

The Date and Time: Friday, November 16, 2012 2PM to 4PM
The Event: 18th annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo
The Venue: Metro Toronto Convention Centre
The Target Audience: consumers
The Availability/Catalogue: just about all wines are available through
their agents or trade associates.
The Quote/Background: I usually go on Thursday night with the VIPs, but
in the past few years at that time, it had gotten so dark, so noisy and
so crowded, I thought I'd try early Friday afternoon instead. Wow, what
a difference. I could actually see my wine and hear the agent's spiel!!
I usually go to taste the New York wines plus a handful of others at
the Intervin Tasting Lounge.
The Wines: I did not try all the wines at the show. These are the New
York wines I did try, out of 27 (24 were gold medalists) --

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sheldrake Point Gewurztraminer 2011 Finger Lakes, $21.95 Classique

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars Semi-Dry Riesling 2011
Finger Lakes, $19 Hobbs & Co
-Hosmer winery Medium Riesling 2011 Finger Lakes, $20
-Keuka Spring Vineyards Semi-Sweet Riesling 2011 Finger Lakes, $21.10
-Thirsty Owl Dry Riesling 2011, $16.90
-Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars Muscat Ottonel 2011 Finger
Lakes, $23.40 Hobbs & Co
-Martha Clara Vineyards Chardonnay Estate Reserve 2010 Long Island,
$24.85
-Ventosa Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2009 Finger Lakes, $31.55
-Clovis Point Vintner's Select Merlot 2007 Long Island, $45.20

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Lieb Cellars Pinot Blanc 2010 Long Island, $27.40
-Thirsty Owl Pinot Gris 2011 Finger Lakes, $16.90
-Paumanok Vineyards Chardonnay Un-Oak Festival 2011, $26.45
-Bouquet Wines Cabernet Franc 2010 Long Island, $33
-Osprey Dominion Reserve Merlot 2007 Long Island, $31.90 +271692
Vintages
-Bedell Cellars Taste Red 2010 Long Island, $43.25
-Freedom Run Winery Meritage 2010 Niagara Escarpment, $40.80

…and these are all the other wines I tasted:

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Alpine Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Marlborough NZ, $14.95 +241810
-Ktima Vourvoukell [organic] Limnio Red 2011, $35 Pontos Imports
-G. Lorentz Riesling Reserve 2010, $17 Amethyst
-Quinta de Baixo Tinto Colheita 2008, $15 Amethyst
-Southbank Chardonnay 2010 NZ, $18 Amethyst
-Rokand Tissier et Fils Sancerre 2011, $20.95 +108514

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Brancott Letter Series B Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Marlborough, $19.95
+278689
-Finca Nueva White Barrel Fermented 2010 Rioja, +292763, $15.95
-Ataraxia Sauvignon Blanc Hermanus South Africa 2009, +282814, $17.95
-Ktima Vourvoukell [organic] Roditis White 2011, $35 Pontos Imports
-Ktima Vourvoukell [organic] Avdiros Rose 2011, $35 Pontos Imports
-Naveran Perles Roses Cava Cuvee Antonia 2009, $19.95 +286435
-Naveran Dama de Naveran Cava 2010, $17.95 +293946
-Dufouleur Cremant de Bourgogne 2008, +207993, $17.40
-Domaine Raoul Gautherin Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2008, $29.95 +159236

The Contact Person: nywine@ketchin.com and www.foodandwineexpo.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
84.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 5, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR  JANUARY 5, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara:
good expressive use of wood to reflect cream and off-dry vanilla tones,
definitely Californian in style. +593996, $17.95, QPR: 92.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Luis Felipe Edwards Gran Reserva Rousanne 2010 Colchagua Valley:
off-dry honeyed fruit, some creaminess from barrel aging and sur lie.
14% ABV. Twist top. +309740, $16.95, QPR: 90.
2. Miguel Torres Santa Digna Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Curico: a
Fair Traded wine, MVC savvy in the New Zealand style, twist top, 13.5%
ABV. +177444, $13.95, QPR: 89.
3. Bellingham Chardonnay with Splash Viognier 2010 WO Wellington South
Africa: some barrel fermentation with lees contact, off-dry feel
contributed by viognier (5 – 10% added?), 14% ABV. +295345, $13.95,
QPR: 89.
4. Torres Vina Esmeralda 2011 Catalunya Spain: one of my fave aromatic
wines for over 30 years, made with muscat and gewurztraminer. But it is
a summer-y wine… 11.5% ABV. +113696, $13.95, QPR: 91.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Don Sebastiani and Sons Sivas-Sonoma Old Vine Zinfandel 2009 Sonoma County: a
good enough sausage wine, 14.9% ABV, good intensity. +291096, $18.95,
QPR: 89.
2. Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Maipo Valley: juicy ripe
fruit and long length, ready now with decanting. +58446, $14.95, QPR:
89.
3. Small Gully Mr. Black's Little Book Shiraz 2008 Barossa: delivers
off-dry complexity in a well-oaked mode, Christmas pudding tones. 15.2%
ABV. +287979, $16.95, QPR: 89.
4. Terres d'Avignon Reserve des Armoires 2010 Cotes du Rhone: smoked
meat complexity, slab fat, leather galore, 14% ABV. Grenache fruit and
paperiness. +194886, $14.95, QPR: 89.
5. Coppi Peucetico Primitivo 2007 Puglia: bright, juicy, North American
style and appeal, 13.5% ABV. +724674, $13.95, QPR: 89.
6. Terra d'Alter Arg Aragones 2009 VR Alentejano Portugal: good aged
compomnent of leather and tar, 14.5% ABV, red fruit tones. +292045,
$14.95, QPR: 89
7. El Molet Tinto 2009 Valencia: 14.5% ABV, black fruits dominate,
mocha tones. +305904, $14.95, QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Domaine de Fussiacus Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuisse 2010, +276444,
$23.95 retail.
2. Roger & Didier Raimbault Sancerre 2011, +82255, $22.95.
3. Colchester Ridge CREW Cabernet Franc 2008 VQA Lake Erie North Shore,
+315945, $21.95.
4. MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir 2009 Central Coast, +303990, $21.95.
5. Chateau de Monturon 2010 St.Emilion Grand Cru, +171017, $23.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

Wine Writer Wine Reviews Inappropriate Attributions

Should you want to pass this along, here are the current defining URLs re: Natalie MacLean

http://palatepress.com/2012/12/wine/content-theft/

http://palatepress.com/2012/12/wine/pay-for-play-wine-writing/

http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/530726/natalie-maclean-what-i-am-doing-is-legal-and-right

http://thejosephreport.blogspot.ca/2012/12/pay-to-play.html

http://blog.wblakegray.com/2012/12/natalie-maclean-should-pay.html

http://winediarist.com/worlds-best-wine-writer-busted/

http://www.vinography.com/archives/2012/12/the_soap_opera_of_wine.html

http://vinquebec.com/node/10489

http://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2012/12/palate-press-accuses-maclean-of-copyright-infringement/

http://winehiker.posterous.com/the-hyprocrisy-of-natalie-maclean

http://www.ambitonline.com/nextrelease/2012/12/wine-writers-behaving-badly-the-natalie-maclean-story/

http://intoxreport.com/2012/12/23/maclean-is-macdirty-i-have-your-hack-back-natalie/

http://blog.wblakegray.com/2012/12/natalie-maclean-tells-lie.html

http://hosemasterofwine.blogspot.ca/2012/12/nat-defrauds.html

http://blogs.timeslive.co.za/pendock/2012/12/27/the-passion-of-natalie-maclean/

http://life.nationalpost.com/2012/12/28/john-szabos-vintages-preview-for-jan-5-2013/

http://www.ottawacitizen.com/news/ottawa/Controversy+swirls+over+popular+Ottawa+wine+writer+alleged/7761638/story.html

http://www.thestar.com/living/article/1309056--online-wine-writer-feels-wrath-of-grape-lover

Twitter hashtag #natnabbed

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

APVSA tasting in Toronto, Nov 12/12

The Date and Time: Monday, November 12, 2012 11AM to 5PM
The Date and Time: Thursday, June 7, 2012 11AM to 5 PM
The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des
vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the
principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to
comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such
places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,
Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show
will have wines from Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia. Sometimes
spirits and VDN are also available.
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines
that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be
any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made
available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few
have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good
value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB
cost which must be requested due to competitive pricing. I did not try
every wine.
The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Clos des Moines Bordeaux Superiore 2010 [wooded]
-Cellier des Gorges de l'Ardeche Cotes du Rhone 2010

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Chateau Mayre-Vieil Fronsac 2009
-Chateau Jeanrousse 2010 Fronsac
-Chateau La Grave Peynet 2011 Rouge
-Le Clos d'Elle Languedoc Mas de Pagnol Rouge 2011
-Le Clos d'Elle Pays d'Oc Chardonnay 2011
-Domaine La Rosiere Bio'ronnies 2010 Blanc [Demeter]
-Domaine La Rosiere Bio'ronnies 2010 Rose [Demeter]
-Domaine La Rosiere Bio'ronnies 2010 Rouge [Demeter]
-Cellier des Gorges de l'Ardeche Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau La Grave Peynet 2011 Rose
-Le Clos d'Elle Pays d'Oc Chardonnay 2010
-Domaine La Rosiere La Vertue Syrah 2010
-Cave du Lugon Bordeaux Croix du Carney 2011
-Chateau Comte Segur 2011 Bordeaux
-Grand Duche Fronsac 2010
-Le Clos d'Elle Pays d'Oc IGP Rouge 2010
-Le Clos d'Elle Pays d'Herault Rose 2011
-Cellier des Gorges de l'Ardeche Cotes du Rhone 2009 [organic]

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):
84.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

Tasting with Armand de Maigret, Jonata Wines, Nov 7/12

The Date and Time: Wednesday, November 7, 2012 11M to 1 PM
The Event: Press tasting with Armand de Maigret, Estate Manager of
Jonata wines in California (www.jonata.com), represented by Woodman
Wines and Spirits.
The Venue: Royal Canadian Yacht Club, City Club House
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: everything we tasted is somewhere in the
LCBO distribution system.
The Quote/Background: The Santa Ynez winery is farmed organically plus
some aspects biodynamism (garden, livestock). Yields are minuscule, 82
acres (out of 600) planted north of Santa Barbara, two tons an acre,
high density of vines.
The Wines: We tasted 8 wines.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Jonata El Alma 2008 [mostly cab franc], +218925, $149
-Jonata Todos 2008 [mostly syrah], +218941, $59.95 Vintages online
-Jonata Sangre 2008 [mostly syrah], +220517, $150

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Jonata La Fuerza 2006 [mostly petit verdot], +221168, $89
-Jonata La Tierra 2008 [mostly sangiovese], +221159, $89
-Jonata El Desafio 2008 [mostly cab sauv], +218933, $145 Classics March
2013
-Jonata El Desafio 2007 [mostly cab sauv], +218933, $145
-Jonata Fenix 2007 [mostly merlot], +253237, $95

 

The Food: salads, roast beef sandwiches, warm fish sandwiches,
desserts.
The Downside: I had to leave early for another commitment.
The Upside: well, I did try the fishwich with red wine…
The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com