California Wine Fair, April 8/13

 The Date and Time: Monday, April 8, 2013    11 AM to 5:30 PM

The Event: California Wine Fair, Toronto

The Venue: Fairmont Royal York

The Target Audience: trade and wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: variable availability, some at LCBO, some private orders, some consignment.

The Quote/Background: There were lots of wines. I mostly confined myself to the Media Room, but at 2:30 I ventured out to the larger trade room to catch a few more wines.

The Wines: Of course, I did not try every wine (about 400 of them?)…

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fog Crest Estate Chardonnay 2010 Russian River Valley

-Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut NV

-Gloria Ferrer Va de Vi Brut NV $26.95 LCBO

-Heitz Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa Rutherford

-MacRostie Winery Chardonnay 2011 Sonoma Coast

-Crossbarn by Paul Hobbs Chardonnay 2011 Sonoma Coast

-Sebastiani Chardonnay 2010 Sonoma County

-Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Napa

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Bogle Vineyards Phantom 2009 California

-Cline Cellars Cashmere 2011 California

-Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide 2009 Alexander Valley

-Conway Vineyards Bien Nacido Chardonnay 2009 Santa Barbara County

-Conway Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Rutherford

-Beaulieu Vineyard Reserve Tapestry 2009 Napa

-Chalone Estate Chardonnay 2010 Chalone

-Hewitt Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Rutherford

-Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Happy Canyon

-Don Sebastiani & Sons Project Paso Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Paso Robles

-Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot 2010 Napa

-Ehret Family Bellarina Meritage 2008 Knights Valley

-Ehret Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Knights Valley

-Elyse Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel 2008 Rutherford Napa

-Eos Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Paso Robles

-Eos Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Paso Robles

-Jekel Vineyards Chardonnay 2010 Monterey

-Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Alexander Valley

-Geyser Peak Reserve Alexandre Meritage 2006 Alexander Valley

-Grgich Hills Chardonnay 2010 Napa Valley

-Heitz Ink Grade Vineyard Zinfandel 2009 Napa

-Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa

-Heitz Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Napa

-Hartford Court Chardonnay 2011 Russian River

-Justin Vineyards Chardonnay 2011 Paso Robles

-Justin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Paso Robles

-Justin Vineyards Isosceles 2010 Paso Robles

-Kenneth Volk Chardonnay 2009 Santa Maria Valley $23.95 LCBO

-Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 6 2009 Santa Barbara County

-Nichols Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Paso Robles

-Nichols Winery Chardonnay 2002 Edna Valley

-Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa

-Schug Carneros Estate Chardonnay 2011 Carneros

-Signorello Estate Padrone Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa

-Villa Mount Eden Pinot Noir 2009 Sonoma Coast

-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Merlot 2008 Napa

-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay KARIA 2010 Napa

-Wild Thing Zinfandel 2009

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Benovia Chardonnay 2011 Russian River

-Buena Vista Pinot Noir 2011 Carneros

-Bonterra Organic Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Mendocino

-C.G.Di Arie Interlude 2009 Sierra Foothills

-Blackstone Syrah 2011 California

-Clos du Bois Chardonnay 2011 California

-Dreaming Tree Crush Red Blend 2010 North Coast

-Primal Roots White Blend 2011 California

-Revolution Red Blend California

-Cuvaison Chardonnay 2011 Carneros Napa

-Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa

-Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Blend (50 – 50) 2009 Paso Robles

-Ehret Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Knights Valley

-Ehret Family Bella's Blend 2008 Knights Valley

-Eos Estate Chardonnay 2011 Paso Robles

-Esser Chardonnay 2011 Monterey

-Foppiano Vineyards Petite Sirah 2010 Russian River Valley

-Ironstone Obsession RED 2011 California

-J. Lohr Riverstone Chardonnay 2011 Arroyo Seco

-J. Lohr Falcon's Perch Pinot Noir 2011 Monterey

-Isabel Mondavi Pinot Noir 2009 Carneros

-Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2011 Russian River

-Pedroncelli Cabernet Sauvignon Three Vineyards 2010 Dry Creek Valley

-Peju Merlot 2009 Napa

-Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc/Viognier 2012 California $19.99 Consignment Lifford

-Ravenswood Zinfandel Old Vine Lodi 2010 California

-Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Central Coast

-Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Alexander Valley

-Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa

-Schug Carneros Estate Pinot Noir 2010 Carneros

-Silver Oak Twomey Cellars Merlot 2008 Napa

-39 North Wine Company Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendocino

-St. Supery Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Napa

-Thomas Fogarty Chardonnay 2008 Santa Cruz Mountains

-Thomas Fogarty Gewurztraminer 2010 Monterey

-Trefethen Vineyards Chardonnay 2011 Oak Knoll District Napa

-Trinchero Folie a deux Chardonnay 2011 Russian River

-Kunde Family Estate Chardonnay 2011 Sonoma Valley

-Waterstone Merlot 2009 Napa

-Whitehall Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Napa

-Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi Moscato 2011 California

-Sequana Pinot Noir 2009 Russian River Valley

-Black Stallion Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa

-Stonestreet Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

 

The Food: In the show, there were room-temperature international cheeses, dried fruits, strawbs, breads, veggies and drips, crackers, pates and terrines.

The Downside: it was difficult to hear many of the pourers in the large trade show.

The Upside: the media room was quiet

The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up
being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or
even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will
certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant
and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books
actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved.
Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or
preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or
anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because
most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of
metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to
point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy
for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying
ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the
magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it
takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users,
and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not
necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and
many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are
loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious
stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound,
usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with
well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-
involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food
shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other
celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources
are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with
websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so
don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest
crop of such books –

 

13. THE MIGHTY GASTROPOLIS PORTLAND; a journey through the
center of America's new food revolution (Chronicle Books, 2012,
192 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-0596-3, $24.95 US soft covers) is by
Karen Brooks, with Gideon Bosker and Teri Gelber – all local
food writers in Portland Oregon. This is a good guide to the
street food capital of the USA, headed by log rolling from five
top food writers (including Ruth Reichl). It's a collection of
stories with recipes about some 100 top food emporiums, along
with photos. I've been to Portland, and I've eaten at a few
places on the list (Evoe) and off the list (Secret Society, run
by my "conflict of interest" nephew). Sadly, I have missed all
the food cart pods, but these are included here in the book and
I will return to them later in life. Also here are the Portland
Farmer's Market, the People's Food Farmers Market, and, of
course, lots of those food carts for which Portland is renowned.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Try Pok pok's grilled corn with salty coconut cream and limes,
or Da' Sterling Bombs (espresso ganache stuffed chocolate
cookies), or grilled steak with bacon-roasted mushrooms and
black trumpet butter.
Quality/price rating: 88.

 

14. CRISTINA'S OF SUN VALLEY CON GUSTO! (Gibbs Smith, 2012, 200
pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3189-7, $30 US hard covers) is by
Cristina Ceccatelli Cook, who opened her eponymous place in
1993. This is her third cookbook from her restaurant. Originally
from Tuscany, she gives us a mostly Italian-inspired cookbook,
heavily endorsed by older musical celebrities such as Steve
Miller and Carole King. Photos of the establishment have been
kept to a minimum, allowing for more expression of the plated
dishes. There are chapters for antipasti (liver crostini),
salads, soups, stews, panini, pasta, fish (black cod in salsa
verde), meat (pork osso buco with porchetta), veggies, desserts
(sbrisiolona) and breakfasts.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. A
great book for her fans. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

15, RAW FOOD DETOX (Ryland, Peters and Small, 2013, 144 pages,
ISBN 978-1-84975-265-7, $21.95 US hard covers) is by Anya Ladra,
founder of Raw Fairies, a raw food delivery company in the UK.
As the publisher notes, "revitalize and rejuvenate with these
delicious low-calorie recipes to help you lose weight and
improve your energy levels. She uses plant-based organic
ingredients and methods such as soaking, sprouting, and
dehydrating. A raw food detox is supposed to promote clear
glowing skin and give you better energy. It is also touted as
painless. She begins with a five-day cleansing detox. Then there
are chapters devoted to juices and smoothies, salads and
dressings, mains, snacks, sweets and desserts. Carrot and lemon
juice with omega-3 oils is a good start to the day, followed by
a sprouted buckwheat salad or tomato quiche with almond pastry.
For snacks, we could all enjoy spicy almonds or Italian flaxseed
crackers. For the meat eaters, there's a mushroom pate and a
range of desserts. The diet is easy; the dishes may take a
little insight to prepare.
recipes have their ingredients listed mainly in avoirdupois with
some metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
There's a list of suppliers in the UK and the US. Quality/price
rating: 87.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

IT'S ALL GOOD: delicious, easy recipes that will make you look good
and feel great (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013,;distr. Hachette, 303
pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-2271-2, $32 US hard covers) is by Gwyneth
Paltrow. The prominent focusing food writer is Julia Turshen. Here,
Paltrow emphasizes the foods that promote her "clear eyes, glowing
skin, and fit body". Because she was anemic, deficient in Vitamin D,
and her adrenal levels were too high, she began an elimination diet: no
coffee, alcohol, dairy, sugar, shellfish, gluten or soy. Only organic
food and nothing processed at all. Earlier she had written the well-
received "My Father's Daughter" – a collection about family food. There
are some of those recipes here in this current book, along with others
from her website, GOOP.com. The preps here are tied into three
categories, noted by icons: elimination diet, vegan, and protein-
packed. Nearly all diets follow the same rules (eat plant-based whole
foods, lean protein, no white flour/sugar/dairy, no caffeine and no
alcohol), and so this book is perfectly adaptable to all regimens.
There are also 35 menus, sorted by kind and by week.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: dieters and others seeking a clean life.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tomatillo salsa, sweet
leftover quinoa, striped bass grilled with cucumber, Spanish chopped
salad, spicy brussels sprouts, "buttermilk" waffles, salmon burgers,
fish tacos, chopped salads, many-mushroom soup.
The downside to this book: too many pix of Paltrow and friends
The upside to this book: good sense.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

5-Star Tasting of Ontario PN, CF, Chard, Riesling and Sparklers at Casa Loma April 10

The Date and Time: Wednesday, April 10, 2013   6Pm to 9PM

The Event: 5 Stars: Toronto's First-Ever Tasting to focus solely on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and Sparklers, put together by the Ontario Wine Society and the Kiwanis Club of Casa Loma.

The Venue: Casa Loma

The Target Audience: members and guests of both organizations.

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available for purchase from the wineries.

The Quote/Background: the wine media were invited to the Billiards Room for a private tasting of all the wines.

The Wines: there were over 30 wineries and about 130 wines; I did not taste all the wines. All wines tasted were VQA.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2010, $29.95 LCBO only

-Bachelder Niagara Saunder's Chardonnay 2010, $44.95 LCBO only

-Coyote's Run Rare Vintage Pinot Noir 2010, $49.95

-Flatrock Cellars Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2010, $25.15

-Henry Of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2010, $35

-Rockway Glen Small Lot Reserve Chardonnay 2011, $18.95

-Southbrook Whimsy Lot 20 Chardonnay 2010, $34.95

-Stoney Ridge Excellence Chardonnay 2010, $27.95

-Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, $34.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-13^th Street Cuvee 13 Rose Sparkling, $24.95

-By Chadsey's Cairns Riesling VQA PEC 2011, $23.20

-Calamus StarStruck Sparkling 100% Pinot noir 2011, $26.95

-Calamus Vinemount Ridge Riesling 2011, $16.20.

-Coyote's Run Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011, $29.95

-Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011, $24.95

-Coyote's Run Pinot Noir 2011, $19.95

-Flatrock Cellars Riddled Sparkling 2008, $25.20

-Flatrock Cellars Estate Chardonnay 2009, $17.15

-Flatrock Cellars Gravity Pinot Noir 2010, $30.15

-Flatrock Cellars Nadja's Vineyard Riesling 2010, $20.15

-GreenLane Old Vines Riesling 2010, $29.95 LCBO only

-Henry Of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2007, $40

-Henry Of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Carte Blanche Sparkling, $44.95

-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2010, $32.20

-Hidden Bench Estate Pinot Noir 2010, $38.20

-Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2011, $24.20

-Huff Cuvee Peter H. Huff Sparkling 2007, $40

-Huff Riesling Off-Dry 2011, $18

-Keint-he Chardonnay 2009, $20

-Keint-he Pinot Noir Little Creek – Benway 2009, $35

-Keint-he Pinot Noir Little Creek – Closson 2009, $29

-Lailey Cabernet Franc 2010, $25.20

-Lighthall Pinot Noir 2011, $25

-Niagara College Dean's List Pinot Noir 2009, $25.15

-Niagara College Dean's List Cabernet Franc 2010, $28.15

-Niagara College Semi-Dry Riesling 2010, $14.15

-Pondview Cabernet Franc 2010, $30.15

-Rockway Glen Small Lot Reserve Cabernet Franc, $23.95

-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 2011, $21.95

-Stanners Chardonnay 2010, $25

-Stoney Ridge Excellence Pinot Noir 2010, $29.95

-Tawse Sketches of Niagara Chardonnay 2011, $19.95

-Tawse Van Bers Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2009, $49.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-13^th Street June's Vineyard Chardonnay 2011, $21.95

-By Chadsey's Cairns Riesling VQA PEC 2009, $19.20

-Casa Dea Riesling 2011, $16.95

-Cornerstone Riesling 2012, $17

-Coyote's Run Unoaked Chardonnay 2011, $14.95

-Flatrock Cellars Estate Pinot Noir 2010, $20.15

-Grange of PEC GPE Estate Pinot Noir 2009, $16.95

-Grange of PEC GPE Estate Riesling 2009, $14.95

-Grange of PEC GPE Estate Chardonnay 2011, $15.95

-GreenLane Chardonnay 2010, $21.95

-GreenLane Estate Riesling 2011, $15.95

-GreenLane Unoaked Chardonnay 2011, $17.95

-Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Riesling 2008, $30

-Huff Cuvee Janine Sparkling Rose 2010, $30

-Huff Pinot Noir 2011, $25

-Huff South Bay Chardonnay 2010, $30

-Huff South Bay Rose 2011, $18

-Niagara College Unoaked Chardonnay 2011, $15.15

-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc 2010, $23.95

-Stanners Pinot Noir 2010, $30

-Stanners Cabernet Franc 2009, $22

-Stanners Riesling 2011, $23

-Stoney Ridge Excellence Cabernet Franc 2009, $29.95

-Strewn Chardonnay Amalgam Terroir 2008, $23.15

-Sugarbush Riesling 2011, $17

-Sugarbush Pinot Noir 2010, $19

-Sugarbush Chardonnay 2011, $20

-Sugarbush Cabernet Franc 2011, $20

-Vineland Elevation Chardonnay, $19.95

-Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard Riesling 2012, $21.95

-Tawse Grower's Blend Pinot Noir 2010, $26.95

 

The Food: grilled Italian style veggies (peppers, eggplant, zucchini, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, etc.), tomatoes and calamari, mussels and salami, prosciutto, breads.

The Downside: the lighting in the Billiards room was subdued and more appropriate for snooker than for tasting wines.

The Upside: a great opportunity to chat/taste with winemakers/owners.

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 13, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 13, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

La Velona Brunello de Montalcino 2007, +181321, $38.95 retail.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Greenlane Estate Riesling 2011 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore Niagara:
another new aromatic and outstanding Ontario riesling, showing citrus
plus orchard fruit plus some flowers. +327247, $15.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Chateau de Clotte 2010 Cotes de Bordeaux – Castillon: a straight-
forward affordable Bordeaux with a whopping 14.5% ABV. Good evidence of
climate change. +307215, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Chateau La Croix de Queynac 2009 Bordeaux Superieur: winner of a
Gold Medal in Bordeaux. Black fruit and MVC for the region, may need
some time to come around. +138636, $15.95, QPR: 89.
3. Le Circque Carignan/Mourvedre/Syrah 2011 Vin de Pays des Cotes
Catalanes: overflowing the rich ripe fruit along the black lines, and
herbes and short pepper notes. No oak. Twist top, 14.5% ABV. +277079,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
4. Resta Salice Salentino 2009 Puglia: very Italiante nose, deep
flavours, black fruit throughout, underbrush and forest floor, 13 %
ABV. +324731, $14.95, QPR: 89.
5. Cusumano Nova 2008 IGT Sicilia: another well-developed blockbuster
at 14.5%, again with black fruit driven by the one-third cabernet
sauvignon in the blend. +109512, $18.95, QPR: 89.
6. Adriano Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas 2010 Douro: dense and chunky, with
a blend of five grapes including Touriga nacional, t. franca, tinto
roriz and tinto da barca. 13.5%. Spicy. +359893, $16.95, QPR: 89.
7. Quinta do Portal Frontaria 2009 Douro: another heavy-heavy, but with
one-quarter aged in French oak. 13.5% ABV, made from tinto roriz,
Touriga nacional and t. franca. +324533, $13.95, QPR: 89.
8. Le Ragose Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008: the LCBO's
"ripasso of the month". +991984, $19.95, QPR: 88.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Huff Estates South Bay Chardonnay 2009 VQA Ontario, +88955, $29.95
retail.
2. Rosehall Run Cuvee County Chardonnay 2010 VQA Prince Edward County,
+132928, $21.95.
3. Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough, +84897, $47.95.
4. Rustenberg Chardonnay 2011 WO Stellenbosch, +598631, $24.95.
5. Bachelder Bourgogne Chardonnay 2010, +272005, $29.95.
6. Chateau Favray Pouilly-Fume 2011, +323642, $21.95.
7. Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2009 Sonoma Coast, +656850, $54.95
8. Domaine Durieu Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010, +320168, $35.95.
9. E. Guigal Gigondas 2009, +331900, $31.95.
10. Rocca delle Macie Ser Gioveto 2008 IGT Toscana, +974964, $39.95.
11. Marques de Caceres Tinto Reserva 2005 Rioja, +702761, $24.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Some More Interesting Wine and Food Books

VIEW FROM THE VINEYARD; a practical guide to sustainable
winegrape growing (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2011, 219 pages,
ISBN 978-1-935879-90-9, $34.95 US hard covers) is a handbook for
the professional winemaker and viticulturist. It's by Clifford
P. Ohmart, an entomologist specializing in sustainable
agriculture. He's co-author of Code of Sustainable Winegrowing
Practices Self-Assessment Winebook (2002), speaks at many
seminars, and writes a bimonthly column for Wines & Vines
magazine on sustainable winegrowing. He opens with a brief
history of sustainability and biodynamics, and positions in
American agriculture; he closes with the role of certification.
In between are the basics at the primer level of achievability:
pest management; organic and biodynamic principles for creating
plans, thinking and planning holistically, defining winery and
vineyard resources, and ecosystems (habitats). There are plenty
of references and a bibliography for further reading as well as
some websites for more documentation and photos.
Audience and level of use: winemakers, winemaking schools.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Few growers keep good records
of vineyard management practices because there are few software
programs available to handle this data.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

 

4. DUTCH OVEN COOKING (Gibbs-Smith, 2011; distr. Raincoast, 128
pages,
ISBN 978-1-4236-1459-3, $15.99 US spiral bound) is by Terry
Lewis, a
two-time winner of the World Championship Cook-offs held by the
International Dutch Oven Society. He has been cooking and
competing in
such events for over 20 years. His Dutch Oven is meant to be on
a bed
of coals; thus, for every recipe, he lists how many hot coals
will be
needed. This may limit its usage in many places. For example,
the
omelet requires 31 hot coals, including 9 under the oven and 16
on the
top. In general, each coal will raise the temperature about 20
degrees
Fahrenheit. This is a basic book, with adaptations for lasagna,
pizza,
corn bread, baked beans, chicken and rice, and others.
Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but
there is
a table of metric equivalents. The basic arrangement is by entry
level:
beginner, intermediate, and advanced. Within each range there
are
categories for breads, sides, mains and desserts. It all appears
to be
finger-lickin' good and authentic.
Audience and level of use: Dutch oven users
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: almost 60 recipes,
including
chicken and cheese chimichangas, maple BBQ ribs with buttered
almond
rice, and peach-raspberry pie.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

5. MELISSA'S 50 BEST PLANTS ON THE PLANET; the most nutrient-
dense fruits and vegetables in 150 delicious recipes (Chronicle
Books, 2013, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-0283-2, $29.95 US paper
covers) is by
Cathy Thomas, food columnist at the Orange County Register. In
1984,
Melissa's World Variety Produce Inc was formed; it was named
after the founders' daughter. It is a leading distributor of
fruits and veggies in the US, primarily to restaurants and other
trade places. This is Thomas' third book for Melissa. I reviewed
a previous one from Wiley (Everyday Cooking with Organic
Produce, 2010). Here, she gives us overviews of the 50 most
nutritionally available fruits and veggies (with variations by
variety),
about 150 recipes with variations and quick-prep ideas, plus the
usual
basics of shopping and storage, with serving suggestions and
nutritional info. Covered are arugula, asparagus, beet and beet
green, blackberry, bok choy through to gai lan, red currants,
tangerine, watercress, and watermelon. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those concerned about food
sustainability,
organic food eaters, and those with nutritional issues.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: apple and raisin-
stuffed pork tenderloin with guava sauce; breakfasts toasts with
kale and eggs; skinny cheesecake parfaits; nectarine, mango and
black bean salsa; pistou.
The downside to this book: I'm uncomfortable with logos and
trademarks
on my food. The index is extremely tiny and uncomfortable.
The upside to this book: photographs show intense colour.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

 

 

6. THE ELEMENTS OF DESSERT (John Wiley & Sons, 2012, 536 pages,
ISBN 978-0-470-89198-8, $65 US hard covers) is by Francisco
Migoya, a teacher at the Culinary Institute of America,
specializing in Café Operations for baking and dessert classes.
Previously, he was executive pastry chef for Thomas Keller
(French Laundry, Bouchon). This is a professional book concerned
with the scope of dessert, through flavours, ingredients, and
techniques. It's arranged by plated desserts, dessert buffets,
passed-around desserts, cakes, and petits fours, with opening
chapters on the basic elements, followed by a bibliography and a
resources list. Each prep yields many servings, and recipes will
need to be modified for the home cook. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois and metric measurements, along
with scaled percentages, but there is no table of equivalents.
The gateau maillard, for example, yields 4 cakes and is
comprised of: body (caramelized white chocolate mousse),
inclusions of toasted rye bread cream and brown butter genoise,
a base of shortbread toffee, a coating of vegetable ash velvet
spray, and a garnish of toasted sourdough sliver (appropriate
page references are given for the recipes of these components).
Audience and level of use: students, advanced pastry chefs.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fennel meringue,
frozen/distilled granny smith apple juice gelee/apple
molasses/crystallized anise hyssop leaf; fig, passion fruit and
toffee filling; apricot foam; acacia honey and goat cheese
macarons; meyer lemon pate de fruit; black olive chocolate bars;
cilantro, tangerine, and litchi filling.
The downside to this book: very heavy book, awkward to flip
through.
The upside to this book: gorgeous photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

 

7. COOKING TO THE IMAGE; a plating handbook (John Wiley & Sons,
2013, 156 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-07597-5, $43.75 US soft covers)
is by Elaine Sikorski, with 20 years experience in professional
kitchens and 10 years teaching culinary art. Her book is loaded
with advice and experiences, plus over 100 photos and
illustrations (all black and white except for a few coloured
insert pages). She has about 13 themes: the line of vision for
each student chef and what it could be, the plate as part of the
menu, setting a frame, moving from platter to plate, styles
(nouvelle, American, global), and more. As a student textbook,
it has summaries, questions for discussion or homework, and
citations and reference material in every chapter. No recipes,
but lots of menu ideas. Well worth a look…Quality/Price Rating:
89.

 

8. THE COMPLETE GLUTEN-FREE WHOLE GRAINS COOKBOOK; 125 delicious
recipes from amaranth to Quinoa to wild rice. (Robert Rose,
2008, 2013, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0438-3, $24.95 CAN soft
covers) is by Judith Finlayson, along time food writer who has
written many cookbooks for Robert Rose. This current book is
based on her 2008 The Complete Whole Grains Cookbook, which had
150 recipes over 288 pages. She's dropped rye, barley and all
forms of wheat, and picked up a few other recipes for such as
Job's tears. For her, she had to compensate for her gluten
sensitivity which many of us get later in life. Her previous
book had many preps for rice, millet, quinoa and buckwheat.
She's augmented these, and retained many favourites. The whole
grains here are actually quick cooking, and many have medicinal
properties such as Job's tears. So does chia, but she doesn't
have any recipes for it. Teff is included. She begins with a
culinary profile for each grain, with nutritional and storage
information, as well as how to buy and how to cook. There are 11
of them here: amaranth, buckwheat, corn, Job's tears, millet,
oats, quinoa, rice, sorghum, teff, and wild rice. Arrangement is
by course, with breads and breakfasts first, followed by apps,
soups, salads, meats, veggies, sides, and desserts.  There is
also a listing of diabetes food values. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: celiac sufferers, gluten sensitive
people.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cranberry-orange
pecan muffins; coconut spike pork with quinoa and peanuts; soba
noodles with broccoli sauce (but be sure to get the 100%
buckwheat: read the ingredient listing carefully); chewy oatmeal
coconut cookies with cranberries and pecans; kasha and beet
salad; salmon stew with corn and quinoa.
The downside to this book: a few more recipes and some mention
of teff, which is actually easier to find than job's tears and
sorghum.
The upside to this book: there's nutritional info for each prep
plus some variations.
Quality/Price Rating: 90. 

 

9. REAL MEN DRINK PORT…and ladies do too! (Quiller, 2011, 176
pages, ISBN 978-1-84689-112-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is the
latest port book by Ben Howkins, a working port expert and port
writer, famed for his "Rich, Rare and Red" book published by the
International Wine & Food Society. He's back, with a more
colloquial book, illustrated by the renowned UK cartoonist-
drawer, Oliver Preston. It just got distributed in North America
this year. The book is a sitdown-and-read collection of various
historical facts and contemporary accounts of port. It is more
along the lines of "confessions of a port merchant" since it
follows along his illustrious career in the port industry. He
covers William Pitt the Younger, Lord Nelson, Duke of
Wellington, plus other nobles who have stories to tell about
their love of port. His characters include the major players in
the industry such as Taylor, Symington, Graham. There is the
evolution of the styles (ruby, tawny, vintage, late bottled
vintage) and the dinner traditions. There is the difference
between British lover of ports and Portuguese lover of ports.
All tied up with a bibliography and even an index to pull up
related references! Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

10. BEYOND HUMMUS AND FALAFEL; social and political aspects of
Palestinian food in Israel (University of California Press,
2012, 207 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-26232-4, $26.95 US soft covers)
is by Liora Gvion, a sociology professor in Tel Aviv and teacher
at Hebrew University. It was originally published in Hebrew in
2011, and this is the English translation, number 40 in the
California Studies in Food and Culture series. It was quite
controversial when it first came out in Israel; there were
complaints about a Jewish woman writing on the topic of
Palestinian food. This book does need to brought forward in
light of the fact the hottest cookbook last year was "Jerusalem:
a cookbook" which embraced Jewish, Arabic and Christian
influences in the cooking of that city. Indeed, Toronto once
supported a restaurant called "Jerusalem" which favoured that
style of Middle East cooking. But this book is more sociology –
there are no recipes. It is the story of how Palestinians in
Israel use food to negotiate life and a shared cultural identity
within a tense political context. She's looked at the shopping,
cooking and dining practices of Palestinians in Israel. The
bottom line could be: why can't they break bread – whether pita
or matzo – together? As with scholarly works, there are copious
end notes, a glossary of culinary terms, an extended
bibliography of works cited, and an in-depth index. Fascinating
reading. Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

11. AMARONE; the making of an Italian wine phenomenon (Wine
Appreciation Guild, 2011, 2012, 146 pages, ISBN 978-1-935879-82-
4, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Kate Singleton, author of
several books on Italian wines. It was originally published in
Italy in 2011, and this is its USA release. It's mostly about
Sandro Boscaini, founder and president of Masi Winery (they own
the copyright to the English text). But she also covers the
Veneto and the wine industry of the region, principally
Valpolicella. The Appasimento method (drying grapes) used in the
creation of Amarone has been around since the Roman days, but
Boscaini, through Masi, has been a contemporary leader in
fashioning the style of wine we have now. There are over 200
Amarone labels on the market, but only about a dozen
historically significant houses who are active in maintaining
the style. There were basically two types: Recioto (sweet) and
Amarone (bitter, astringent). By the early 1980s, Masi had led
the charge to change the wine to somewhere in the middle, to
lose its astringency but retain its fruitness. The action of
using partially dried grapes leads to more body and a higher
alcohol content. Many Amarones are 16 per cent alcohol by
volume; some have a hot finish. The book deals with the Masi
estates, the wineries, the production, the people involved, the
various labels (successes and some not-so-successes), and the
Boscaini family. There's even a recipe section of a half-dozen
dishes (pasta, lamb and almonds, risotto, beef and mushrooms,
duck breast) to go with Amarone in a meal. There are also some
appendices on technical matters. Regrettably and unfortunately,
there is no index. Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

12. PASTA; classic and contemporary pasta, risotto, crespelle,
and polenta recipes (John Wiley & Sons, 2013, 266 pages, ISBN
978-0-470-58779-9, $29.99 US hard covers) is from the Culinary
Institute of America, more specifically two assistant professors
at the CIA – Gianni Scappin and Alberto Vanoli. It is one of a
series of CIA books that can be useful to both hospitality
students and homemakers. All Italian regions and styles are
covered; the book is arranged by season (summer through spring).
The usual primer material has been relegated to the back, into a
chapter called "Basics". This covers boxed pasta, fresh pasta,
basic pasta preps, gnocchi, crespelles, pesto, tomato sauces,
cheese, cod, olive oils, chestnuts and broths. There are about
150 recipes plus photos distributed amongst the seasons.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: homemakers, hospitality students,
restaurant owners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cocoa pappardelle
with boar sauce; red wine fettuccine with wild game; garganelli
with leeks and morels; ricotta and spinach dumplings (gnudi);
semolina with radicchio; ravioli with gorgonzola cheese, raisins
and lemon zest; chickpea crespelle with bitter greens.
The downside to this book: the index has tiny print.
The upside to this book: photos are restricted to final plating,
including a gorgeous rice salad that is beyond final plating.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

1. Chateau des Charmes Aligote 2010 VQA St. David's Bench, $13.55,
+296848 LCBO: made from a rare French vinifera (seldom seen outside
Burgundy) that Paul Bosc has cultivated since 1978, loaded with orchard
fruit (apples and pears) and ending with a finishing acidity suggesting
food more than sipping, although partial MLF was used. 13% ABV. 1200
cases. Rated 89 points by Dean Tudor.

 

2. Chateau des Charmes Equuleus 2010 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard VQA St.
David's Bench, +319525, $40 Vintages: a traditional blend of 50% cab
sauvignon, with 25% both cab franc and merlot. Aged separately for one
year in best French oak barrels, and then the best barrels are blended
for another year in bottle. Last vintage was 2007. The quality was not
there for 2008 and 2009. With plenty of black fruit and some smoke,
you've got to keep this wine another 7 years, or else do a double
decant (maybe even more) to accelerate the aging process. A good wine
for strong grilled meats. Rated currently at 91 points by Dean Tudor.

 

3. Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc 2009 Napa, +221887 Vintages $22.95: from
two vineyards, including the famous To Kalon for older vines. 10%
Semillon added for mellowness, 60% sauvignon blanc underwent barrel
fermentation, and all of the wine aged sur lie in French oak. Even so
it is a crisp, citric finish with little toast or oak components beyond
buttery vanilla and tropical melons on the palate. 13.5% ABV. Rated 90
points by Dean Tudor.

 

4. Ravenswood Zinfandel Old Vine Lodi 2010, +942599 Vintages $19.95:
from low-yielding vines, with concentrated black fruit (especially
cherries) and some underbrush and spices from barrels. Assertive, and
needs some time. 14.5% ABV. Rated 89 points by Dean Tudor.

 

5. Paso Creek Zinfandel Paso Robles 2011: in the system previously as
2009 at Vintages, +279810 at $19.95. This one is more exuberant, more
fresh, with concentrated compelling black fruit, cherries, chewy mocha-
chocolate tones, complex berry finish, buttery and long finish. Plummy,
juicy and 15% ABV. Rated 90 points by Dean Tudor.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

 AMERICAN WINE; the ultimate companion to the wines and
wineries of the United States (University of California Press,
2013, 278 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-27321-4, $50US hard covers) is a
co-production between Mitchell Beazley-Hachette in the UK and
the U of C Press. The authors are the well-known Jancis
Robinson, editor of The Oxford Companion to Wine and co-editor
of The World Atlas of Wine, and Linda Murphy, a Beard winner and
former wine section editor of the San Francisco Chronicle. It is
a comprehensive survey of wineries in the US, which rose from
440 producers in 1970 to more than 7,000 today, over 40 years
later. The IWSR has predicted that wine consumption between 2012
and 2016 will increase by some 14%, and thus even more wineries
will be created. Every state has some wineries. Yet I am amazed
that only half the book deals with California. Given how many
important wineries that state contains, I would have thought 2/3
of the book would be a good start. There are 54 maps and 200
photos, organized by region or AVA. It is fairly comprehensive
in providing thumbnails for each region, with data on grape
varieties, acreage, key wineries (subdivided by mere mentions
within categories such as "trailblazers", "steady hands" [i.e.
reliable], "superstars", and "ones to watch" [i.e. innovators]).
The book also covers history (Prohibition, evolution of AVAs,
celebrities buying wineries, new winemaking techniques such as
micro-oxygenation, and a return to old winemaking with
sustainable, natural, organic, and biodynamic principles
(sometimes referred to as SNOB, but not in this book). The maps
are very useful, and are of the same quality found in The World
Atlas of Wine. However, the book did not make me thirsty, for
there are no tasting notes.
Audience and level of use: armchair travelers, those interested
in US wines.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: As the publisher
notes, "The book takes readers on a journey through fields and
cellars, covering the winemaking, history, culture and
viticulture of each region."
The downside to this book: not enough details on individual
wineries.
The upside to this book: good maps and reproductions of labels.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

Report from Vinexx Portfolio Tasting, Oakville....

The Date and Time: Wednesday, March 21, 2013   4:40 PM to 8:30 PM
The Event: A portfolio tasting from Vinexx
The Venue: Seasons Restaurant, Oakville
The Target Audience: private clients
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available, some are already
at Vintages.
The Quote/Background: I was picked up (and returned) by Alex Palmer of
Vinexx, along with Quentin Paillard of Champagne Paillard, and dropped
off at Seasons.
The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Caves de Bailly Cremant de Bourgogne Reserve Paul Delane, +214981,
$17.40 – value wine
-Champagne Pierre Paillard Grand Cru Brut Cuvee Daniel, Vinexx $46+hst
-Champagne Pierre Paillard Grand Cru Brut 2004, Vinexx $65+hst
-Dry Creek Vineyards Chenin Blanc 2011, Vinexx $15.25+hst
-Muga Bianco 2011, +958736, $15.95
-E. Guigal Crozes Hermitage 2009, Vinexx $24.95+hst
-E. Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape 2007, Vinexx $49.95+hst
-Mas des Bressades Cabernet-Syrah Les Vignes de Mon Pere 2009, +712174,
$19.95
-Cignomoro Primitivo di Manduria 2009, Vinexx $19.95+hst

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Champagne Pierre Paillard Grand Cru Brut Rose, Vinexx $52+hst
-Muga Cava Conde de Haro Extra Brut, +168559, $19.95
-Lorgeril Sauvignon Blanc L'Orangerai 2011, Vinexx $12.25+hst
-Château de Rey Oh de Muscat 2011, +314377, $13.95
-Canyon Oaks Chardonnay 2011, Vinexx $12.95+hst
-Terres Secretes St-Veran Croix de Montceau 2010, +159046, $18.85
-Calera Chardonnay 2011, +713313, $24.95,
-Vine Cliff Winery Chardonnay 2009, +289132, $37.50
-Mud House Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Neal Vineyard NZ, Vinexx $19.95+hst
-Mud House Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Woolshed Vineyard NZ, +312744, $20.95
-Mud House Pinot Gris 2011 Taggart Vineyard NZ, Vinexx $16.95
-Mud House Pinot Noir 2010 NZ, +190462, $17.90
-Mud House Pinot Noir 2011 Golden Terraces Vineyard NZ, Vinexx $26.95
-Maison Sichel Domaine de Pellehaut Rose 2012, Vinexx $12.95+hst
-E. Guigal Rose 2012 Rhone, $15.95 +225003 Vintages July 6
-Mount Eden Vineyards Pinot Noir Domaine Eden 2010, Vinexx $40+hst
-Mount Eden Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate 2010, Vinexx $60+hst
-Canyon Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Vinexx $12.95+hst
-Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, Vinexx $31.95+hst
-Cline Viognier 2011, Vinexx $15.95+hst
-Cline Pinot Noir 2011, Vinexx $19.95+hst
-Cline Zinfandel 2011, $13.15 +489278
-Cline Cashmere 2010, $19.95 +161539
-Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre 2011, $19.95 +32177 Vintages May 25
-Vinaceous Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Raconteur, $19.95 +299768
-Muga Reserva 2008 Rioja, $23.95  +177345
-Vinedos Bods. Pable Menguante Seleccion Garnacha 2007, $16.95 +313833

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Alliance Loire Cremant de Loire De Chanceny Brut Rose, +211466, $16.70
-Willy Gisselbrecht Sylvaner Tradition 2011 Alsace, +315028, $13.95
-La Chablisienne Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2009, +215525, $25.95
-Muga Rose 2012 Spain, $12.95 +603795 Vintages May 11
-Mas des Bressades Cuvee Tradition Rose 2012, $13.95 +950576 Vintages
May 11
-A. Roca Pinot Noir Reserva de Familia 2010 Argentina, $19.95 Vintages
+301275
-E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2009, $16.95 +259721
-A. Roca Cabernet Sauvignon Dedicacion Personal 2011 Argentina, Vinexx
$17.95
-Cline Ancient Vines Carignane 2011, $19.95 +66084 Vintages May 25
-Cline Syrah 2009, Vinexx $13.95+hst
-A. Roca Fincas Malbec 2012 Argentina, Vinexx $13.95+hst
-Dry Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Vinexx $23.95+hst

 

The Food: we had deep fried meatballs, salmon wraps, thin crust tomato
pizza, stuffed endive boats, shrimp, beef and chicken satays, and
sliders – all via waited platters.
The Downside: driving on the QEW (what isn't a downside here?)
The Upside: been driven and escorted to taste fine wines.
The Contact Person: jdesautels@vinexx.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
92.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 30, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 30, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Domaine Les Yeuses Les Epices Syrah 2010 IGP Pays d'Oc: it's back, but
another vintage, just as good as ever – even better. Value priced,
great syrah hit of pepper, smoked meat, black fruit, garrigue, black
berries. Perfect accompaniment to horsemeat. I've said virtually the
same things about the last three times this has turned up in Vintages:
the 2007, 2008, 2009, and now the 2010. 13.5% ABV. +177584, $13.95,
QPR: 93.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Bachelder Saunders Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 VQA Beamsville Bench,
+324103, $44.95 retail.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake:
sharply defined Riesling character, one of the best in Ontario, intense
flavours and body, modest finish. +277228, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Rosewood Natalie's Sussreserve Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara: bone dry
finish but soft alluring character on the mid-palate, 11% ABV. +258806,
$14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Gerard Bertrand Reserve Speciale Viognier 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc: not as
aromatic as expected but palate flavours suggest food (first course)
rather than patio. +147975, $15.95, QPR: 89.
4. JeanJean Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet 2011 Coteaux du Languedoc: an OK
price, with nice crisp green apples and tart lemons. First course food.
Twist top. +525287, $12.95, QPR: 89.
5. I Campi Campo Vulcano Soave Classico 2010: delicious intensity for a
soave, full flavours and body for that apple-lemon orchard=type fruit.
12.5% ABV, needs food. +269969, $18.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Château Agnel Cuvee Philippe Minervois 2009: North American appeal,
14.5% ABV, big, brawny, oak tones dominate the flowers. +309195,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
2. Mon Tauch Les Garrigues Grande Reserve Marselen 2011 IGP Valle du
Torgan: well, it does call a spade a spade, using the word "garrigues"
in its name. But these herbs, at 13.5% ABV, do need another year in
bottle.
3. Librandi Duca Sanfelice Ciro Riserva Rosso 2009 Calabria: I seem to
think that it has been some time since we've seen a Ciro Reserva in
Ontario. The last vintage I recommended was 1988! All from the
gaglioppo grapes: more, sir! Delicious flavours, aging well. +695874,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
4. Luigi Righetti Campolieti Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore
2010: the LCBO's "Ripasso of the month". +695890, $16.95, QPR: 89.
5. Quinta do Penedo 2009 Dao: North American style, ready now,
approachable fruit. 70% Touriga nacional and 30% alfrocheiro. +313676,
$18.95, QPR: 89.
6. Hermanos Pecina Senorio de P. Pecina Crianza 2007 Rioja: very good
oaky complexity, ripe fruit, 13% ABV. Toasty tasty. +313726, $19.95,
QPR: 89.
7. Otazu Premium Cuvee 2007 Navarra: extremely ripe fruit and over-the-
top flavours, dense abstractions and extractions, 14.5% ABV. Some
butteriness. Gold Medalist. +313809, $16.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.The Foreign Affair Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +127290,
$24.95 retail.
3.Vieil Armand Grand Cru Ollwiller Riesling 2009 Alsace, +315135,
$20.95.
4.Domaine Fouassier Les Grands Groux Sancerre 2010, +267948, $24.95.
6. Versado Reserva Malbec 2009 Mendoza Luan de Cuyo, +316984, $59.95.
7. Caliboro Erasmo 2008 Maule Valley, +311837, $21.95.
8. Château Tauzinat L'Hermitage 2009 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, +309955,
$29.95.
9. Brigaldara Case Vecie Amarone Della Valpolicella 2007, +247502,
$58.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com