Sip & Savour Ontario (locally grown food paired with VQA wines, June 19

The Date and Time: Wednesday, June 19, 2013   6:30 PM to 10 PM
The Event: Sip & Savour Ontario (locally grown food paired with VQA
wines)
The Venue: Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District
The Target Audience: consumers, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue listed details about the
wines (prices, availability), the Ontario Wine Award winners, the OWA
judging team, the food pairing establishments, and Houselink (charity
partner).
The Quote/Background: there were also live culinary demos, featuring
Chef Brad Livergant from The Fifth, Debbie Levy from Dairy Farmers of
Canada, and Chef Charles Kerr of Distillery Events catering.
The Wines: I could not sample every wine – there were too many of them!
Most wines were available through the winery, but some are also at the
LCBO.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-13th Street Winery Cuvee 13 Rose, $24.95
-Creekside Estate Broken Press Syrah 2008, $39.95
-Creekside Laura's White 2011, $18.95 Vintages
-Creekside Lost Barrel Red 2007, $65
-Huff Estates Cuvee Peter F. Huff 2007, $39.95 Vintages
-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Brut 2009, $22.95 Vintages
-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2011, $14.95 Vintages
-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Shiraz 2011, $24.95 Vintages
-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2010, $30 Vintages
-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2009, $40 Vintages
-Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir 2009, $40 Vintages
-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay "Damy" 2011, $21.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-13th Street Winery June's Vineyard Riesling 2011, $19.95 Vintages
-Trius Red 2011, $22.95 LCBO
-Cattail Creek Estate Creek Series Riesling 2012, $14.95 LCBO
-Cattail Creek Estate Series Simply Stainless Chardonnay 2012, $16.95
-Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2012, $14.95 Vintages
-Colchester Ridge Estate Winery Grand CREW 2008, $50
-Colchester Ridge Estate Winery CREW Riesling 2011, $14
-Fresh Moscato 2012, $11.95
-G. Marquis Riesling Red Line 2011, $11.95 LCBO
-G. Marquis Chardonnay Silver Line 2011, $16.95 Vintages
-Huff Estates South Bay Chardonnay 2010, $29.95 Vintages
-Inniskillin Discovery Series P3 2012 [PG/PN/PB], $19.95
-Inniskillin Reserve Series Viognier 2012, $19.95
-Konzelmann Estate Gewurztraminer 2011, $14.75 LCBO
-Niagara College Teaching Winery Dean's List Chardonnay 2009, $28.15
-Nyarai Cellars Viognier 2012, $21.95
-Nyarai Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $19.95
-Rockway Vineyards Small Lot Reserve Chardonnay 2011, $18.95
-Rockway Vineyards Small Lot Reserve White Assemblage 2011, $16.95
-Southbrook Cabernet Franc Rose 2011, $19.95 Vintages
-Vineland Estates Chardonnay Musque 2010, $14.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Trius Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $13.95 LCBO
-Casa-Dea Estates Chardonnay 2010, $15.95
-Colchester Ridge Estate Winery CREW Chardonnay 2011, $13
-Colio Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $15.95
-G. Marquis Merlot Red Line 2011, $12.95 LCBO
-G. Marquis Pinot Noir Silver Line 2011, $19.95 Vintages
-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2010, $30 Vintages
-Mike Weir Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $14.95 LCBO
-Mike Weir Chardonnay 2009, $14.95 LCBO

 

The Food: wine pairing is always a problem at a consumer show – the
lights are dim, the wine must be swallowed, and you might want to re-
taste the food with another wine. Nevertheless, we soldier on. The best
display was Summer Fresh dips and sauces: they had a well-lit lounge
with crackers and veggies, plus more than a half-dozen of their 20 or
so dips, all accompanied by just one wine pairing (a Crush Riesling
Gewurztraminer 2011 which went rather well against such an assortment
of sauce flavours). Most food stations were tables where samples could
be picked up, and most had just short lineups. The Fifth provided a red
fife crepe with duck confit, the Dairy Farmers had three cheeses (Tre
Stelle Feta, Mountainbrook Aged Gouda, and Empire 4-year old cheddar,
all exceptional), Distillery Events featured smoked and cured candied
salmon with house bannock, and Aria Ristorante had a chilled zucchini
soup with shrimp "chips". Barque had exquisitely smoked salmon, Crush
Wine Bar produced halibut fired fish sliders on house buns, while the
Houselink Food Program had an eggplant appetizer on cracker. Bernardin
showed off its pepper and garlic jelly bruschetta and veggie antipasto,
Stonemill was the "official bread sponsor" and Q Water the "official
water sponsor",  while Popelin had innovative choux a la crème for
Icewine pairing.
The Downside: as it was a consumer show, the lights were lowered, so it
was difficult to actually see the wine and much of the food.
The Upside: a chance to re-try some of the wines I had blindly judged.
The Contact Person: tony.aspler@rogers.com; sandy@forefrontcom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Top Wines from Chile for Licensees.June 17

The Date and Time: Monday, June 17, 2013  11AM to 2:30 PM
The Event: Top Wines from Chile for Licensees.
The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall lobby
The Target Audience: licensees plus a few wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: everything was available for licensees
through the distribution channels.
The Quote/Background: It was a reception style walk about tasting,
followed by a sit down tutored tasting and lunch featuring eight wines
paired with different kinds of animal protein. Chris Waters of Vines
magazine provided the insightful tasting discourses, while Marcela
Burgos, WSET instructor, commented on the Chilean wine scene in
general, notably the terroir.
The Wines: Prices are normally licensee.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bisquertt Ecos de Rulo Single Vineyard Carmenere Colchagua, $19.95 
Vonterra
-Casa Marin Cartegena Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $16.95 Cons Small
Winemakers
-Concha y Toro Don Melchior Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo, $79.95
+315176 Select
-Perez Cruz Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2010, $15.95 Charton Hobbs

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Casa Marin Cartegena Pinot Noir Tres Vinedos 2012, $22.95 Cons Small
Winemakers
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo, $19.95
-Arboleda Chardonnay 2011, $19.95   Ponte
-Bisquertt La Joya Gran Reserva Syrah, $15.95 Vonterra
-Carmen Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, $15.13
-Carmen Reserva Carmenere, $10.23
-Errazuriz Max Reserva Syrah 2011, $18.95  P.Dandurand
-Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, $18.95  P.Dandurand
-Carmin de Peumo Carmenere 2008, $120  Select
-Maquis Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua 2009    P.O. Ackerman Wine and
Spirits
-Miguel Torres Santa Digna Cab Sauvignon 2011     Family Wine Merchants
-Miguel Torres Las Mulas Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2011     Family Wine
Merchants
-San Esteban In Situ Signature Chardonnay – Viognier 2011, $15.95  MCO
-San Esteban In Situ Carmenere Gran Reserva 2009, $16.95  MCO
-San Esteban In Situ Winemakers Selection Carmenere 2010, $13.95  MCO
-Santa Alicia Gran Reserva Carmenere 2010, $19.95   Eurovintage
-Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2011,  $11.95  Charton Hobbs
-Santa Carolina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $11.95
-Santa Rita Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $13.95 Mark Anthony
-Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mapu Merlot, $8.89  Vintages Licensee
Wines

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2010, $19.95
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Pinot Noir 2011, $19.95
-Errazuriz Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, $15.95  P.Dandurand
-Luis Felipe Edwards Terra Vega Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $9.95  Noble
-Luis Felipe Edwards Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $13.95  Noble
-Vina Maipo Reserva Vitral Chardonnay 2012, $13.95 Select
-Maquis Lien Colchagua 2009    P.O. Ackerman Wine and Spirits
-Maquis Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua 2010    P.O. Ackerman Wine and
Spirits
-Maquis Rose [Malbec] Colchagua 2012, $19.95    P.O. Ackerman Wine and
Spirits
-San Pedro Tarapaca 35 South Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $12.95
P.Dandurand
-San Pedro Tarapaca Organic 35 South Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012,
$12.95 P.Dandurand
-San Pedro Tarapaca 1865 Carmenere 2010, $19.95 P.Dandurand
-Santa Alicia Reserva Carmenere 2012, $12.95   Eurovintage
-Santa Alicia Gran Reserva Carmenere 2010, $12.95   Eurovintage
-Santa Carolina Reserva Chardonnay 2011, $11.95
-Santa Rita Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $17.95 Mark Anthony
-Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mapu Sauvignon Blanc, $8.89  Vintages
Licensee Wines

 

The Food: There were four courses, with two wines apiece for an A/B
comparison with the food. First up was a seafood chowder with shrimp,
and clams, poised with two sauvignon blancs. It was a good pairing.
Next, there was a filet of salmon with fresh veggie julienne,
accompanied by a chardonnay/viognier blend, and a pinot noir. This was
less successful, both wines being strongly aromatic and fruity without
the acidic spine. The third course was roast Cornish game hen with
quinoa, punched up with two carmeneres. The single vineyard version was
superb. For the fourth course, the braised short ribs on mashed
potatoes was partnered with two cabs, but only the Don Melchior really
shone (as it should, costing $79.95).
The Downside: I was a bit disappointed in that retail Vintages and
General List products were there – I just assumed that it would be
consignment or private order of "licensee only" wines. Indeed, one of
the wines was skedded for a January 2014 release, so it was actually
"unavailable" for purchase.
The Upside: a chance to taste and re-taste Chilean wines between their
annual trade show in October.
The Contact Person: lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
87.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 20, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 20, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

**** Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2010 VQA Niagara-on-the-
Lake: uses chardonnay clone 809 (16-year old vines), an almost in-your-
face aromatic honeysuckle with some "muscat" quality. Gold Medal at OWA
for Unoaked Chardonnays. 13.5%, useful for social sipping or with
lighter white meats. Twist top. +640516, $16.95, QPR: 91.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

**** Fantino Cascina Dardi Bussia Barolo Riserva 2004, +268524, $39.95.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Angel's Gate Mountainview Chardonnay 2010 VQA Beamsville Bench:
excellent wood and toast, with alluring fruit, right through to the
finish. +116384, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Caliterra Tributo Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 Casablanca: very
charming chardonnay in a bottle – 13.5% ABV, twist top. Cream dominates
orchard fruit. +144709, $15.95, QPR: 89.
3. Auntsfield Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Southern Valleys
Marlborough: textbook kiwi savvy herbs, but assertive in style, in-
your-face aromatics. One of the real winners I found at the NZ trade
show in May (I had seconds). Twist top. +663286, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2012 WO Stellenbosch: a very pleasant (and
affordable) cross between chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc, 13.5% ABV.
Twist top. Gold Medalist. +981167, $12.95, QPR: 89.
5. Cave de Saumur Secrets de Chai Saumur Blanc 2011: all chenin, and
very close to savvy (as the Simonsig above), but more floral. Gold
Medalist. +322677, $13.95, QPR: 89.
6. La Ferme du Mont La Truffiere 2011 Cotes du Rhone: very rounded
blend of Rhone white grape fruit (grenache blanc, viognier, clairette),
good spine for first course foods. 13% ABV. +234716, $15.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Vizcarra Senda Del Oro Roble 2011 Ribera del Duero: textbook style
but early evolving wine of French and US oak tones (vanilla, coconut)
along with some berries. Organic. 14.5%, +331249, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Tamaya Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Limari: another textbook
example of Latin American cabernet sauvignon destined for the North
American market – rich dark black currants with milk chocolate
overtones. BBQ anyone? +292367, $14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Small Gully The Formula Robert's Shiraz 2008 South Australia: points
given for well-aging (five years old now) and a whopping 15.9% ABV.
Twist top. The wine? Overthetop shiraz ripeness to stand up to BBQ.
+142935, $18.95, QPR: 89.
4. Chateau de La Grave Caractere 2009 Cotes de Bourg: Graves character?
Close, but no gravel. Atypical Bordeaux. Rich and full as the Yanks
like it, 14% ABV. BBQ all the way. +224683, $17.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvee Notre Dame Corbieres 2009: good price,
spices and black plumy fruits. Some smoke, 14% ABV. Another BBQ wine.
+269522, $16.95, QPR: 89.
6. Olarra Cerro Anon Reserva 2006 Rioja: good oaking, with coconut
tones, aged now almost 7 years (two in US oak). Bargain price. 14% ABV.
Excellent example of a wood-aged Rioja. +114306, $17.95, QPR: 90.
7. Monasterio de Las Vinas Gran Reserva 2005 Carinena: at 60% garnacha,
this is the LCBO's "Almost Garnacha of the Month". 13% ABV. +82024,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Vina Berceo Crianza 2008 Rioja: nicely aged mid-weight Rioja with
good oak tones of spicings and vanilla. 13.5% ABV. +672824, $16.95,
QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Bachelder Wismer Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 VQA Twenty Mile Bench,
+345819, $44.95 retail.
2. Charles Baker Piccone Vineyard Riesling 2010 VQA Vinemount Ridge,
+241182, $35.20.
3. Tollgate Fume Blanc 2009 VQA Niagara, +335711, $24.95.
4. Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2011 WO Hemel-en-Aarde, +931006, $32.95
5. Chateau Genot-Boulanger Clos du Cromin Meursault 2010, +330043,
$49.95.
6. Gann Family Cellars Pinot Noir 2009 Russian River Valley Sonoma,
+327510, $44.95.
7. Domus Vitae Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +330746, $45.95.
8. Fontalpino Chianti Classico 2010, +275859, $23.95.
9. Castello di Bossi Renieri Invetro 2010 IFT Toscana, +330696, $20.95
10. Bolla Le Origini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007, +204792,
$39.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Walk-around tasting, Toronto June 5

The Date and Time:  Wednesday, June 5, 2013  5:30PM to 9 PM
The Event: Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Walk-around tasting
The Venue: Liberty Grand
The Target Audience: media and trade, followed by consumers.
The Availability/Catalogue: most everything was for ordering that
night. Some items are in consignment or already on the shelves, some
were only available for tasting tonight. I strived for the latter.
The Quote/Background: For the 2013 edition of Gambero Rosso Guide to
Italian Wine, 45,000 wines were tasted. Fewer than 400 received a Tre
Bicchhieri rating (equal to 95 in Wine Spectator, I was told). These
were some of the best wines in Italy. This show had previously been in
Montreal and Vancouver, but now this was the first time in Toronto.
The Wines: I did not try all the wines, concentrating on red wines and
sparklers.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Le Sughere di Frassinello 2010 Tuscany
-Castello di Volpaia Casanova Il Puro Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
-Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Riserva Taurasi 2007
-Il Pollenza 2009 Marche
-Elvio Cogno Vigna Elena Riserva Barolo 2006
-Rocca di Frassinello Baffonero 2010
-Paolo Conterno Ginestra Riserva Barolo 2006
-Podere Grattamacco 2009
-Capichera Mantenghja 2007 Sardinia
-Podere Sapaio 2009
-Stella & Mosca Marchese Villamarina Alghero 2007 Sardinia
-Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2007
-Arnaldo-Caprai 25th Anniversary Sagrantino di Montefalco 2008
-La Montecchia Conte Emo Capodilista Irenèo Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
-Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
-Abbona Terlo Ravera Barolo 2008
-Poggio Al Tesoro Dedicato A Walter 2009
-Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2007
-Paolo Scavino Monvigliero Barolo 2008
-Pecchenino Sirì d'Jermu Dogliani 2009
-La Togata Brunello di Montalcino 2007
-Terenzi Madrechiesa Morellino de Scansano Riserva 2009
-Sorelle Bronca Ser Bele Riserva Colli di Conegliano 2009
-Cavallotto Vignolo Riserva Barolo 2006

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Rocca di Frassinello Baffonero 2010, 100% merlot, $235.
-Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi 2008
-Ferghettina Extra Brut Franciacorta 2006
-Nina Negri 5 Stelle Sfursat di Valtellina 2009
-Barone Pizzini Nature Brut Franciacorta 2008
-Colpetrone Montefalco Sagrantinio 2007
-Cantina Mastra Zero Brut Alta Langa 2006
-Alessandria San Lorenzo Barolo 2008
-Ettore Germano Ceretta Barolo 2008
-Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo 2008
-Conti Zecca Nero 2009 Puglia
-Luigi Rubino Visellio Primitivo 2010 Puglia
-Firriato Ribeca Red 2010 Sicily
-Pietradolce Archineri 2010 Sicily
-Colle Massari Lombrone Riserva Sangiovese 2008
-La Togata Brunello di Montalcino 2006
-Lungarotti Rubesco Vigna Monticchio Torgiano Rosso Riserva 2007
-Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008
-Le Ragose Marta Galli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005
-Masi Mazzano Amarone della Valpoliciella Classico 2006
-Speri Vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
2008

 

The Food: shrimp and risotto, chicken panini (also eggplant,
prosciutto), cheese, breads, beef loins, coffee.
The Downside: there were a few wines here that were only two glasses in
scoring; I do not know why (I did try to find out, but answers were
evasive).
The Upside: one of the best Italian wine tastings in Toronto – ever.
The Contact Person: silvestri@sogood.it
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):93

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Wines of 10 Tre Bicchieri award-winning wineries.

2. The Date and Time: Wednesday, June 5, 2013   1PM to 4PM
The Event: Wines of 10 Tre Bicchieri award-winning wineries.
The Venue: Aria Ristorante
The Target Audience: sommeliers, wine media.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available in the system.
The Quote/Background: B & W Wines, Rogers & Company, and The Vine got
together to sponsor this tasting.
The Wines: There were about 40 wines available for sampling. Prices are
retail except for Rogers.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tolaini Wines Valdisanti 2008, $39.95   B&W
-Tolaini Wines Picconero 2008, $84.95
-Villa Medoro Rosso del Duca Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009, $22.95 B&W
-Villa Medoro Adrano Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009, $29.95
-Vie di Romans Friuli Chardonnay Ciampagnie Vieris 2010,$40.95 The Vine
-Angelo Nicolis e Figli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ambrosan
2006, $78.95 The Vine
-Angelo Nicolis e Figli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007,
$62.95 The Vine
-Pra Soave Classico Monte Grande 2011, $36.95  The Vine

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Paolo Scavino Sorriso Bianco 2012, $18.95   B&W
-Paolo Scavino Langhe Nebbiolo 2011, $24.95
-Paolo Scavino Barolo 2007, $49.95
-Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2005, $100
-Tolaini Wines Al Passo 2009, $27.95  B & W
-Villa Medoro Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2012, $16.95  B & W
-Villa Medoro Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2011, $15.95
-Villa Papiano Sangiovese di Romagna I Probi di Papiano Riserva 2009,
$31.95    The Vine
-Villa Papiano Tregenda 2010 Late Harvest, $32.95 500 mL
-Vie di Romans Sauvignon Piere 2010, $49.95  The Vine
-Vie di Romans Friuliano Dolee 2010, $45.95  The Vine
-Angelo Nicolis e Figli Valpolicella Classico Ripasso Seccal 2009,
$27.95 The Vine
-Pra Soave Classico Otto 2012, $22.95  The Vine
-Lis Neris Gris – Pinot Grigio 2010, $34.95   Rogers
-Lis Neris Jurosa Chardonnay 2010, $34.95
-Lis Neris LIS 2008 [pg/ch/sb] $48.95
-Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, $34.50  Rogers
-Brigaldara Valpolicella Casa Vecie 2011, $15.95  Rogers
-Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella 2008, $47.95  Rogers

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Villa Medoro Pecorino Bianco d'Abruzzo 2012, $18.95  B&W
-Villa Medoro Passerina Bianca d'Abruzzo 2012, $18.95
-Villa Papiano Le Tresche di Papiano [sauv blanc] 2011, $24.95 The Vine
-Villa Papiano di Papiano 2008 [merlot] $31.95
-Angelo Nicolis e Figli Valpolicella Classico 2011, $17.95  The Vine
-Pra Valpolicella Morandina 2011, $24.95 The Vine
-Lis Neris Pinot Grigio 2011, $24.95  Rogers
-Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2010, $23.15  Rogers

 

The Food: bread, and (strangely enough) deep fried pitted and stuffed
green olives.
The Contact Person: bw@bwwines.com; s.stoddart@rogcowines.com; and
wine@thevineagency.ca.
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Petrolo (Tuscany) wine tasting, with winemaker Luca Sanjust

 The Date and Time: Monday June 3, 2013  2:30Pm to 4:30PM
The Event: Petrolo (Tuscany) wine tasting, with winemaker Luca Sanjust
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve
The Target Audience: media, clients
The Availability/Catalogue: wines are available as private orders from
the winery via Vinexx.
The Quote/Background: Luca was in town for the 3 Bicchieri tasting
tomorrow. He ran this seminar of SuperTuscans for Vinexx (his agent)
customers.
The Wines: His three top wines are Torrione (50,000 bottles), Galatrona
(15,000) and Boggina (5,000). They are all organic.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Torrione 2010 IGT Tuscany [80% sangiovese, 15% merlot, 5% cabernet
sauvignon] 14% ABV. The 2010 was between 90% sangiovese and 10% merlot.
Concentrated Italianate form, very mouthfilling and well-integrated at
this time. High tannins, spine will evolve. $40
-Galatrona 2010 IGT Tuscany [all merlot] 14% ABV. Soft but
exceptionally young, velvet finish, long length, elegant, black fruit
and earth with some herbs (olives, sage). $110 – 120.
-Boggina 2012 [all sangiovese grosso, from the centre of the Boggina
vineyard] 14% ABV. Very concentrated Italianate sangiovese flavours,
with a long, long finish. Lightly aromatic nose. $60 – 70.

 

The Food: none
The Contact Person: apalmer@vinexx.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

++ Stratus Tollgate Merlot 2010 VQA Niagara, +344101, $24.95:
originally for licensees, the Tollgate label appears to have gone in
the same direction as their Wildass label – direct to the consumer.
Here, the classic modal varietal character of merlot is preserved
through the hotish, ripe summer of 2010. Spicy oak tones from 567 days
in French oak (50% new), along with concentrated red and black berries
with mocha casings, and the velvet soft finish. 14.9% ABV, twist top.
Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Stratus Tollgate Fume Blanc 2009 VQA Niagara, +335711, $24.95: a
great example of what a "fume" should be – concentrated stone fruit,
zesty grass on the mid-palate, and spicy oak on the finish. 584 days in
French oak, all second-fill, from a low-yield 2009 harvest. 14% ABV,
twist top. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic
Epicures.

 

++ Bottega Vino dei Poeti Sparkling Rose, +277202, $12.95 LCBO: another
winner in the wine sweepstakes for summer enjoyment. It is 60% raboso
piave and 40% pinot nero, coming in at 11.5% ABV. Very pale colour
(skin contact is 12 hours), with aromas of peaches and red berries,
continuing on the palate, and finishing dry. Great for aperitif or with
starters. Medal winner. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor
of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Enopart Topazio 2009 Douro, +324566, $12.95 LCBO: just out for
summer, a relatively lighter version of heavy-heavy Douro reds, a blend
of the three tourigas (nacional, roriz, and franca). Expect cherries,
some mocha, soft finish in a North American appeal. 13% ABV, and with a
twist top instead of a cork. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean
Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

I recently had the opportunity to taste a range of KWV chardonnays…

 

++ KWV Classic Chardonnay 2013, n/a in Ontario but found in three other
provinces at prices averaging $11. Just bottled, my first taste of any
2013 wines thus far. Light oaking, some nuttiness on finish, basic
entry level but all the elements are there: slight vanilla and lime
tones. A good value wine, twist top, 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is
89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ KWV Reserve Collection Chardonnay 2012, n/a in Canada, but selling
for about $11 CAN in South Africa. Barrel Fermentation for 80 days.
13.5% ABV. Fragrant, fresh lime zest, balanced with oak tones, lingers,
smooth. Twist top. Very close to Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay in style,
perhaps more oak and less lime. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by
Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ KWV Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2012, +328559 Vintages, $14.95: not
sure how to describe this since it is very close to the Reserve – I
tasted both side-by-side. Again, barrel fermentation for 80 days. 13.5%
ABV. Fragrant, fresh lime zest, balanced with oak tones, lingers,
smooth. Cork finish, within same price range as Reserve. 50% new French
oak, rest second and third fill, nine months maturation. 31% of fruit
from Elgin Vineyards. Fuller body. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by
Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ KWV The Mentors Chardonnay 2012, n/a in Canada, about $18 CAN in
South Africa. Made from all Elgin Vineyard fruit, expected to mature
well for three to five years. 13% ABV. Lemony, minerals, some lime,
rich from the lees. Stone fruit aromas, woodsy, nine months barrel
aging (same as Cathedral Cellar). Quality/Price rating is 91 points by
Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

1. Sokol Blosser Evolution White NV, +206870 LCBO, $16.95: here is the
16th edition of this wine (marked on the label; there is no vintage
date). It's one of the leading US white wine blends, with elements of
nine grapes (pinot gris, pinot blanc, white riesling, Semillon, muscat
canelli, gewurztraminer, chardonnay, sylvaner and muller-thurgau).
Probably only muscat and gewurztraminer really matter when it comes to
upfront grapey, tropical, and spicy tones. The rest contribute raciness
and mineral/lemon complexities. The balance changes each year depending
on what the vintage bears fruit, but the nine grapes apparently remain
the same. Lush, off-dry flavours of tropicality, perfect for summer
sipping (and light enough at 12% ABV). Goes with any food that is hot
and/or spicy. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic
Epicures.

 

2. Sokol Blosser Evolution Red NV: currently only on consignment
through PMA, price about the same as for Ev White. It leans more to a
party wine, with its red fruit from the sangiovese and sweet pie spices
and vanilla from the added syrah and montepulciano. There are even some
aromatics created by the addition of a bit of Evolution White, sort of
like a Northern Rhone wine which has some viognier added. 13% ABV here
is enough to make you dance. If you need food, try the grill for
meats…or pastas. It has been around the US for a year or so (this is
touted as just "2nd edition"), but only recently here in Ontario.
Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3. G. Marquis The Silver Line Chardonnay 2011 Single Vineyard Niagara
Stone Road VQA NOTL, +258681, $16.95, QPR: 89: lightly oaked six
months, elegant orchard fruit, slightly off-dry, creamy. 13.2% ABV. As
medium bodied, best with first course or seafood. Quality/Price rating
is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3. G. Marquis The Silver Line Pinot Noir 2011 Single Vineyard Niagara
Stone Road VQA NOTL, +258673, $19.95: with ML and BA (six months in
new, mainly French oak, this wine seems burgundian in style with a wash
of Ontario cranberries. Red fruit, some smoke, long finish. 13% ABV.
Expect some earthy, velvety tones and feel. Quality/Price rating is 88
points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4. G. Marquis Premium Ice Rose VQA NOTL, +274761, $29.95: this is all
pinot noir (blanc de noirs) with some cabernet franc icewine for the
dosage. MC style, of course, 13.4% ABV, no wood. Berryish (rasps and
strawbs), floral. Medium body – without zee edge. Aperitif wine, in
celebration of Mother's Day, or (as the producer says) serve with
cheese. Come in a nice presentation cardboard box. Quality/Price rating
is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

5. Umberto Fiore Barbaresco 2008 DOCG, +254870 LCBO $16.05: a great
bargain since it was introduced in an earlier vintage. Fiore used to
produce my fave inexpensive Italian red, the Spanna (1978 and 1983 were
the best), coming in decades ago at $4.25. So here, with a modest price
bump, is a well-aged nebbiolo showing all the Barolo/Barbaresco
complexities, if a bit light. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92
points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

6. Domaine Boyar Cabernet Sauvignon Boyar 2011 Bulgaria, +340851 LCBO
$7.95: East European wines don't seem to get the respect they deserve,
but they sell well to an overtaxed populace (like the UK) who demand
value. It's a typical MVC Cabernet with black fruit, spices, anise,
mocha, and some plumy depth. It's a kind of Spartacus wine from
Thoracian vineyards. Twist top, 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89
points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

7. Badischer Winzerkeller Pinot Noir Spatburgunder Baden, +231373 LCBO
$9.95: a non-vintage lightweight in the pinot sweepstakes, but the AP
number seems to indicate that this is a bottling from the 2009 vintage.
Expect light aromas of cherries and other red fruits but no wood tones.
Quality/Price rating is 85 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

8. Badischer Winzerkeller Gewurztraminer 2011 Baden, +336735 LCBO
$10.95: this is a serious gewurztraminer, worthy of your consideration.
It has been one my faves since it first came here about eight years
ago. 12% ABV, full of lush fruit (including lychee) that is off-dry and
beguiling. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor
of Gothic Epicures.

 

9. Arnold Palmer Chardonnay 2011 California, $24.99 Consumer price,
Consignment from HHD Imports: a very nice chardonnay that just misses
the mark of being a "California" chardonnay. There is MVC here, but it
is on the lightish side, more like a cool climate chardonnay from the
Pacific Northwest. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of
Gothic Epicures.

 

10. Arnold Palmer Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 California, $24.99 Consumer
price, Consignment from HHD Imports: a very nice cabernet sauvignon
that just misses the mark of being a "California" cabernet. There is
MVC here, but it needs more concentration. More like a cool climate
cabernet from Washington State. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by
Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

11. Wildass Rose 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +71712 Vintages, $19.95: a
delightful but strong rose, comprising gamay (25%), syrah (22%), malbec
(12%), cabernet Franc (11%), and the only white, Semillon at 30%. Check
out the 14.5% ABV while sitting around the deck this summer. It's 100%
barrel aged for three months in older French oak, but the berries sure
do dominate. Twist top. From Stratus Vineyards. Quality/Price rating is
89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

12. Wildass Red 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +86363 Vintages, $19.95: a
delightful wine but not as strong as the rose above, comprising syrah
(11%), merlot (28%), cabernet Franc (31%), cabernet sauvignon (18%),
tannat (5%), Tempranillo (3%), sangiovese (1%), and petit verdot (3%).
The eight grapes were 100% barrel aged in 11% new oak for 246 days.
Exceptionally ripe wine, coming in at 14% ABV. Twist top. Quality/Price
rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

14. Tenute Santarelli "Aspettando Il Giudizio di Paride" Cerasulo IGT
2010 Abruzzo [rose], from Caliber Wines at www.winevintages.com, about
$20: from the montepulciano d'abruzzo grape, but a rose (known loacally
as "cerasuolo". Expect cherry tones, plus strawbs, fresh fruity aromas,
some bitter almonds and dried orange peel in the finish. Heavy, at
14.5%, pink like a Pinot Noir from a northern clime. Quality/Price
rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

15. Tenute Santarelli "I Musici" Lacrima di Morro d'Alba 2010 IGT
Marche, from Caliber Wines, about $20: from the rare lacrima di morro
d'alba thin-skinned grape, suitable for early maturing in the soft
fruity style of a Dolcetto. 13.5% ABV, low yielding. Red berry tones,
unusual wine, great to savour and talk about. Quality/Price rating is
87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

16. La Croix D'Azur Sauvignon Blanc 2011 IGP Cotes de Gascogne,
+330928, $11.95 LCBO: only the second Gascony white to appear on the
LCBO General List of late (the other is Domaine Pellechaut). This one
is a bit drier, more in tune with the savvy grape. There's about 15%
gros manseng, a local grape, to flesh out the spine. It's a nicely tart
zesty citrus-y savvy for summer, with a great finish for food. A bit
too dry for sitting around the deck, but useful as an aperitif or first
course white. 11.5% ABV, twist top. Good price. Quality/Price rating is
89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

17. Sileni Cellar Selection Merlot 2012 Hawke's Bay NZ, +308106, $15.95
LCBO: everyday drinking, including the patio. Aged briefly in used oak.
Expect plums and black fruit, with a soft finish. Terrific for summer
with its 12.5% ABV. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by
Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 6, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 6, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

**** Wildass White 2009 VQA Niagara: blend of savvy, Semillon,
gewurztraminer, riesling, ripe orchard fruit and oak tones of coconut,
thick body of concentration. Dee-licious. +85100, $19.95, QPR: 90.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

**** Vina Olabarri Gran Reserva 2004 Rioja, +329102, $24.95.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Strewn Terroir Sauvignon Blanc 2011 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake:
excellent savvy from Ontario, twist top, 12.9% ABV, best with food (not
a sipper), Minerals and herbs. +343897, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Philippe Portier Quincy 2011: good sipper with fruit or aperitif
wine, mineral spine, more aromatics on nose than on palate, 12.5% ABV.
From sauvignon blanc, although there could be some sauvignon gris as
well. +326876, $17.95, QPR: 89.
3. Catena Alamos Torrontes 2012 Salta: long finish with this dry white,
full body, aromatic with citric tones, 13.5% ABV, good value, appetizer
or first course, twist top. +81539, $13.95, QPR: 90.
4. Steve Bird Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Marlborough: an over-the-top kiwi
savvy, twist top, 13.5%. +178319, $18.95, QPR: 89.
5. Dopff & Irion Domaines du Chateau de Riquewihr Les Murailles
Riesling 2008 Alsace: definite petrol on the nose and the palate, long
finish, dry mode, 13$ ABV. Stones, fennel, citric embodiment. +933069,
$19.95, QPR: 89.
6. Joseph Cattin Muscat 2011 Alsace: gewurztraminer-like, thus
delicious. Dry mouthfeel (higher acid), 12.5% ABV, slight bitterness on
finish but otherwise a gracious wine at a gracious price. Gold
Medalist. +224634, $15.95, QPR: 89.

7. Le Cidre St. Nicolas Rose NV: a sparkling hard cider from Quebec that
has added strawberry and raspberry juices to creat a "rose" colour and
some berryish aromas. Old fashioned style apple cider tones, the way they
make them in France. Gold Medalist. 275362, $19.95, QPR: 90.

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. William Cole Winemaker's Special Reserve 2010 Casablanca: very good,
consistent, bordeaux-style blend at 13.9% ABV, cork finish, food wine.
+325431, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Vavasour Redwood Pass Pinot Noir 2011 Marlborough: tasty dry red
fruit, balanced, MVC pinot noir via textbook, twist top, but 14% ABV.
+326041, $18.95, QPR: 89.
3. Villiersdorp Slowine Red 2010 WO Western Cape: North Rhonish in
texture with a large syrah component (leather, black fruit, smoked
meat). 14.5% ABV. Take your time getting up from the chair. +96503,
$13.95, QPR: 90.
4. Marchesi di Barolo Maraia Barbera Monferrato 2011 Piedmont: dense,
fruity, worthy of your attention, well-made food wine, 13% ABV.
5. San Michele a Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2011: North American
style wine, heavy on mocha/cherry/smoke, 14.5% ABV…but organic.
+900258, $16.95, QPR: 89.
6. Taluau & Foltzenlogel Passion Bourgueil 2010: loaded with Euro
herbal tangs, cabernet franc all the way, savoury wine, 13% ABV.
+326884, $14.95, QPR: 89.
7. Chateau de Jau 2011 Cotes de Roussillon Villages: fruity (red &
black), hottish finish at 13% ABV, but pretty good tastes overall. Cork
finish. Try with BBQ, cheeses, and the like. +955070, $14.95, QPR: 89.
8. CVA Pinyolet Garnacha 2011 Montsant Spain: LCBO's garnacha of the
month, +271791, $17.95, QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2011 VQA Beamsville Bench, +183491,
$23.95 retail.
2. Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Marlborough, +178319, $18.95
3. Jean-Max Roger Cuvee Les Caillottes Sancerre 2011, +65573, $24.95.
4. Chateau Moulinat Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2009 Haut-Medoc, +198978,
$22.95.
5. Champy Signature Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2010, +1149, $23.95.
6. Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, +288530, $24.95.
7. Montepeloso A Quo 2010 IGT Toscana, +330886, $29.95.
8. Latium Morini Campo Leon Amarone Della Valpolicella 2008, +334300,
$46.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

1. Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2012 VQA NOTL, $14.95
Vintages +333260: this fresh and vibrant rose continues to please year
over year. Here it is 100% pinot noir, dry "old style", with Ontario
cranberry and red fruit tones, coming in at 12.5% ABV. Stainless steel
of course, and twist top.7 Out of 1000 cases produced, only 300 remain
at the winery.7 It has been made the Ch de Ch house wine for this
summer. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic
Epicures.

 

2. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot Old Vines 2010 VQA NOTL, $19.95
Vintages July 6 +222372: a substantial wine made from plots planted in
1983-1985 and 1992-1996. About a third franc, sauvignon, and merlot,
coming in at 13% ABV after 9 months in French oak. Expect a lot of
mocha and black fruit, and double-decant the bottle before serving.
Wait until winter; the extra time will help soften it. Quality/Price
rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3. Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir "Droit" 2010 VQA St. David's Bench,
$14.95, +582353 July Vintages: medium-bodied, suggestive of Beaujolais
cru wines such as Morgon or Moulin a Vent in its capacity for ageing.
Cherry-berry flavours dominate, but there is added spicing and even
some nuances of smoke and earth, although the wine is unoaked. Cork
finish. BBQ, cheese, or something substantial, but some tannic
structure is present to carry through a whole meal. 13% ABV.
Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4. Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2010 VQA NOTL +322016
July Vintages, $16.95: uses exclusively the chardonnay clone 809 (16-
year old vines), an almost in-your-face aromatic honeysuckle beauty
with some "muscat" grapey quality. Unoaked, of course, (Gold Medal at
OWA for Unoaked Chardonnays) and refreshing. 13.5%, useful for social
sipping or with lighter white meats. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is
91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

5. Ravine Vineyard Sand & Gravel Redcoat 2011 VQA Niagara, $17.95 LCBO
+260406: at a recent Ravine tasting, I thought that this bottle was the
best value for the dollar. It is 52% merlot, 46% cabernet franc, and 2%
cabernet sauvignon (for more spine). The (untasted) 2012 is expected
later this summer, with a different blend percentage. This is a savoury
wine with elements from the franc and a combination of red and black
fruits leading to a mellow finish. Twist top, 13.2% ABV. Quality/Price
rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

6. The Dreaming Tree Crush Red Blend 2010 North Coast, $14.95 to June
23/13 (then $16.95), +310391: lively 13.5% ABV, not a twist top, clever
fruity blend of 78% merlot, 13% syrah, 6% zinfandel, balance petite
sirah, malbec and cabernet sauvignon. 14 months in oak gives some smoke
and toast to the jammy raspberry tones. Aperitif wine, patio/deck for
summer. More at www.dreamingtreeswine.com. Quality/Price rating is 87
points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

MAD HUNGRY CRAVINGS (Artisan, 2013; distr. T. Allen, 306 pages, ISBN
978-1-57965-438-2, $27.95 US hard covers) is by Lucinda Scala Quinn,
food writer and chef with her own cooking show "Mad Hungry with Lucinda
Scala Quinn". She's also the executive food editor of Martha Stewart
Living Omnimedia. These are her versions of dishes that families seem
to enjoy: sesame chicken, pulled pork, New York-style cheesecake, pad
thai, potato skins, and more – 173 preps in all. Her arrangement is by
meal, beginning with brekkies, moving on to lunch (or anytime), ending
with dinner mains and then desserts. There are many, many tips along
the way, in such categories as "note", "good to know", "freezer
friend", and "how to pull it off". She emphasizes the importance of a
larder/pantry and tells us of the four main ones: North American,
Mediterranean, Asian, and Latin. With these you can conquer the world.
Still, a lot of the food is on the heavy side, and appeals mainly to
guys. In that respect it is an extension to her earlier book "Mad
Hungry: feeding men and boys". Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

CELEBRITY VINEYARDS; from Napa to Tuscany (Welcome Books, 2013; distr.
Random House of Canada, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-59962-116-6, $35 US paper
covers) is by Nick Wise, who once was a wine merchant but now is a
writer of pop culture. It's the first of three to be written about the
celebrities who own vineyards. This one covers 16 people in California,
Canada, Italy, and Spain (volume two will deal with Washington State,
France, Australia, New Zealand, more California and Italy with another
15 vineyards). Celebrities include movie stars such as Raymond Burr,
Fess Parker, and Dan Aykroyd in North America, plus Antonio Banderas in
Spain. There are some race car drivers (Andretti, Lewis, Trulli), film
people (Disney, Coppola, Oliveros) and some sports figures – but no
golfers (they'll be in volume two)! The major criteria were that they
be actively involved in the winemaking process (not just fronting the
operation), and that the wines be generally available for sale. Each
chapter gives us some insight into the celebrity's life and reasons for
wanting to make wine, gives us some photos of the people involved and
the terroir landscape, and some conclusions (e.g., it takes a lot of
money). There are some tasting notes and label shots at the end of each
chapter. There is also a glossary and a directory of addresses and
websites to the wineries covered. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

WHERE THERE'S SMOKE; simple, sustainable, delicious grilling (Sterling
Epicure, 2013, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-9705-7, $30 US hard covers)
is by Barton Seaver, a former Washington DC chef and current
speaker/National Geographic Fellow working to restore our relationship
with the ocean and the land, and with each other through dinner. He's
spoken just about everywhere and has appeared on many US TV networks.
His first cookbook (For Cod and Country) was published two years ago.
Here he tackles fresh, organic produce, fish, beef and poultry,
emphasizing fire cookery. His book has a lot of primer data on grilling
and techniques for healthier and greener grilling. He's also got ideas
on adding flavour through smoke, making veggies a main component of
grilling, cooking many courses on one flame, and matching wines. Log
rolling includes chefs and cookbook authors such as Deborah Madison. If
you'd like something different, try grilled tuna spines, smoked lamb
shoulder or his version of merguez. There's a resource list at the
back. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.

 

FAMILY TABLE; favorite staff meals from our restaurants to your home
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 336 pages, ISBN 978-0-547-61562-2,
$35 US hard covers) has been assembled by Michael Romano (culinary
director for Union Square Hospitality Group, a Beard Award winner, and
cookbook author) and Karen Stabiner (food writer and cookbook author),
with log rolling by Mario Batali and Daniel Boulud. It's a great idea
for a book: every restaurant has some food available for its staff,
family style, before the lunch and dinner services. Often it is
improvised, or about new experimental dishes, or about tasty leftovers.
Romano has sifted through a variety of these staff meals as done at his
restaurants (Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park, Tabla, Blue Smoke,
The Modern, Maialino, Untitled, North End Grill, Union Square Café) and
regularized them for home cooks. Stabiner writes about the cooks and
how the dishes came to be: it is all backstage memoir material, along
with photos. Most preps are regional, such as Dominican chicken, fish
tacos, and Thai beef. Others are comfort food such as turkey potpie,
coffee cake, and corn soup. There's something here for every family to
try. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.

 

LEON FAMILY AND FRIENDS (Conran Octopus, 2012; distr. Canadian Manda
Group, 308 pages, ISBN 978-1-84091-619-5, $29.99 US hard covers) is by
Kay Plunkett-Hogge (cookbook writer) and John Vincent (co-owner of Leon
in London). Over the years, since 2004, the Leon group has expanded to
now feature 13 restaurants, serving some 70,000 people a week. This is
a fourth book, and contains hundreds more preps for bold dishes that
can be prepared quickly at home. It's arranged in three major sections:
first, "Today" has recipes for just about every occasion, taking about
20 minutes if the mise en place is used. Typical dishes are for
breakfasts, speedy lunches, afternoon snacks, and simple weekday
dinners. The second half is "Tomorrow": preps that can be made in
advance when you have time, for food on the move, kids' meals, party
food. The layout of the book is an ADD sufferer's delight, especially
the acknowledgements pages. This may put some people off, but I know
some young people who are delighted with a book that actually seems to
have material that leaps off the page, or, as they say, comin' right at
ya! Typical preps include the upside-down apple and cranberry crumble,
slow-cooked lamb shepherd's pie, devilish chicken drumsticks, and
potato and leek soup. There are a couple of bookmark ribbons, the
ingredients are listed in bold typeface, and there is also an index by
type of diet (e.g. gluten-free, low glycemic and low fat). Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

THE MEATBALL COOKBOOK (Mitchell Beazley, 2013; distr. Canadian Manda
Group, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84533-763-6, $19.99 US hard covers) is by
Jez Felwick who owns and operates a food truck in the UK: Great Balls
of Fire. He provides gourmet meatballs, fish balls, and veggie balls,
plus an endless variety of sides, sauces, dips and condiments. For his
fans, there is now his book, divided as to meat, fish and veggies. If
you like ball culture, then this book is for you: shrimp balls, lamb
and rosemary meatballs, green chile chicken balls, brown rice and red
lentil balls. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

MODERN MEDITERRANEAN; easy, flavorful home cooking (Stewart Tabori &
Chang, 2013, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-61769-018-1, $35 US hard covers) is
by Melia Marden, of Greek extraction and now executive chef of The
Smile in New York City. The resto serves seasonal food, and that's what
she advocates in her 125 easy preps for the home cook, with log rolling
from the Lee Brothers and Joan Didion. There's a collection of 17
suggested menus at the back; unfortunately, none have page references
so you'll have to look them all up in the index. Topics cover a French
country dinner, a Christmas dinner (largely Moroccan), an Easter feats,
a BBQ grill, a Taverna offering, a garden party, a cocktail party.
There's a full range of ideas, from apps and drinks to desserts, with
basic pantry information for sticking up. The book is also partly
memoirish, which photos. Try fava bean crostini, minted snap peas,
fennel with cucumber and pomegranate salad, sauteed shaved asparagus, a
potato-fontina pizza, spaghetti in lemon cream, or Greek yoghurt panna
cotta. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric and
(mostly) avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

HAND-CRAFTED CANDY BARS; from-scratch, all-natural, gloriously grown-up
confections (Chronicle Books, 2013, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-0965-7,
$24.95 US hard covers) is by Susie Norris (chocolatiers of Happy
Chocolates in Los Angeles) and Susan Heeger (food writer). These bars 
are thick and layered with nougat or crisp with toffee, and then coated
with extra fine chocolate. They've taken familiar commercial bars and
other faves from the past – and re-created them using freshly wrought
ingredients at home. There is a mix and match flavour chart for people
to customize their own bars. It's a delicious book with stunning
photography: almond coconut bars, rocky road, coffee crisps, nougat
bars, peanut cups, caramel pecan tortoises – and more!! Recipes show
quantities and time needed, as well as tips and variations. There is a
primer on equipment and pantry holdings. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

CHEESECAKE; 60 classic and original recipes for heavenly desserts
(Ryland Peters & Small, 2013, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-353-4, $24.95
US hard covers) is by Hannah Miles, an early winner in MasterChef – in
2007 she was one of three finalists. She continues to make TV
appearances and has written other cookbooks on popcorn, whoopie pies,
and doughnuts. Here she tackles 60 cheesecakes, very easy to make. She
begins with a primer. The classics here include chocolate chip and
baked vanilla. Then there are the fruity (champagne rhubarb), the candy
bar (peanut brittle), the gourmet (salty honey), the party (trifle
cheesecake, baked Alaska), and the global (cardamom bun, Japanese
cherry blossom). Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no separate table of
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com