* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or
classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-
editions"...

22. FEAR OF FOOD; a history of why we worry about what we eat
(University of Chicago Press, 2012, 2013, 218 pages, ISBN 978-0-226-
05490-2, $15 US soft covers) is by Harvey Levenstein, a professor
emeritus of history at McMaster University in Hamilton, Ontario. He has
published a number of books about American social food history, such as
"Revolution at the Table" and "Paradox of Plenty". This time out he
describes the US as a "nation gripped by gustatory paranoia": problems
with eggs (raw? cholesterol? allergies?), wine (good? bad?), death by
pesticides and/or additives and/or processed foods? Read all about it
here, with a spillover to fears in Canada. A lot of the book deals with
single products, such as eggs and milk, red meat, bacteria, and more.
Early scientists warned about deadly microbes, followed by later
researchers who say that processing food to get rid of microbes robs
the food of vitamins and minerals. It is a see-saw battle, antagonized
by Big Foody who prey on people's fears by marketing their "food" to
play into the fear of the day. There are also details on eating
disorders, , diet, food preferences, and food phobias. It is a great
history (loaded with end note references), well worth a read!
Quality/price rating: 91.

23. THE APPETIZER COLLECTION (Transcontinental Books, 2013; distr.
Random House Canada, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-9877474-4-0, $26.95 CAN soft
covers) is by the Canadian Living Test Kitchen. The kitchen has been
working its way through the family meal course by course over the
years, and this time "appetizers" come up. Actually, the book is being
pitched as party food preps, presumably because many family dinners are
really just a main course with sides and desserts. But apps make the
perfect upscale family dinner, entertainment for guests at a formal
dinner, and are magnificent when folded over into lunches (either
cooked as original or used as leftovers). The seven chapters here deal
with appetizer party planning, dips and spreads, hot apps, cold apps,
savoury pastries, tiny sandwiches, and snacks that go with drinks. As
the book says, there is something for everyone here: the mix-and-match
aspect gives you plenty of cooking/entertaining options. But watch out
for the lamb lollipop prep: the meat will cost you an arm and a leg.
About 200 recipes with variations. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements (with some metric weights), but
there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

24. EASY ITALIAN; 30 classic recipes (Weldon Owen, 2013; distr. Simon &
Schuster, 116 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-496-1, $16.95 US soft covers)

and

25. EASY MEXICAN; 37 classic recipes (Weldon Owen, 2013; distr. Simon &
Schuster, 116 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-497-8, $16.95 US soft covers)

are both from Saveur magazine. They are classy presentations, with many
photos, and suitable as affordable hostess gifts. Each has the basic
food (pesto focaccia, minestrone, linguine with clams, eggplant
parmesan, shrimp ceviche, tomatillo salsa, Mexican scrambled eggs,
chicken and chile enchiladas, Mexican rice) with photos. There are also
guide to Mexican dried chiles in the one book, Italian/Mexican
pantries, Italian wines, and Mexican wines (and mezcal but no beers).
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

26. VEGETABLES; a biography (University of Chicago Press, 2012, 112
pages, ISBN 978-0-226-05995-2, $15 US soft covers) is by Evelyne Bloch-
Dano, who has written many diverse books. It was originally published
in France in 2008. The book is slim, and marred even further by the
lack of an index (although it does have a bibliography and enough blank
pages [for an index] at the end). It's sort of a condensed version of
the Reaktion series of food books, covering 11 veggies (including
parsnips, beans, cabbage, peas, pumpkins, and even tomatoes which are
botanically "fruits") with a handful of short preps such as a Sicilian
tomato sauce (strattu), a vegetable tagine, a puree of root vegetables,
and Alexandre Dumas' asperges en petit pois. An engaging little book,
but at this price, maybe one to borrow from the public library.
Quality/price rating: 85.

27. EASY INDIAN COOKING. 2d ed. (Robert Rose, 2004, 2013, 240 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7788-0450-5, $19.95 CAN and US soft covers) is by Suneeta
Vaswani. She has taught Indian cooking in the US and other places for
over 30 years, but has just moved back to Mumbai where she was born.
This second edition has a new Chaat and Street Foods section. Flavours
abound but does ease, which makes the book n=beneficial to the home
cook willing to try out Indian cuisine. Many cookbook s don't make it
to another edition, so it says something that this one is not only back
in print but there are newer recipes. The total here is 140, and is
mostly comprised of the classics from north and south India. There are
notes on a pantry and on condiments (sauces and chutneys), as well as
sweets and beverages. Many street food items can serve as apps. There's
yellow lentil soup with veggies (toor dal), scrambled eggs (akoori),
caramelized carrot pudding (gajar ka halwa), and Indian style
ratatouille with five spices (panch phoran tarkari). Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

28. GUY GOURMET; great chefs' amazing meals for a lean & healthy body
(Rodale, 2013, 320 pages, ISBN 978-1-60961-979-4, $24.99 US hard
covers) has been edited by Adina Steiman and Paul Kita, with the
editors of Men's Health magazine. There are about 150 recipes here,
from Rick Bayless, Thomas Keller, Anita Lo, Masaharu Morimoto, Marcus
Samuelsson, and others. It's based on the coverage in the magazine, and
is directed to males. So there are brunches and breakfasts here, as
well as fast weeknight dinners, snacks and big-batch food for crowds.
There are also chapters on BBQ and grill, camp cookery, intimate
dinners for "date night", and man-sized celebrations such as trash can
turkey, Guinness-braised short ribs, and cheese platters. Drinks are
also included, but they are all cocktails and beers. Wine is basically,
how to pour champagne. There are "masterclasses" for the standard prep,
such as meatballs, kebabs, chili, dips, ice cream sauces, and chicken
soup. It is all healthy enough food, but it is still a little light on
veggies. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

29. WEIGHTWATCHERS 50th ANNIVERSARY COOKBOOK (St. Martins Griffin, 2013,
335 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-03640-7, $29.99 US hard covers) is from WWI
and is mainly derived from the magazine, although many of the preps in
this book come from "Greatest Hits", which has been around since 2002
and last appeared as the 40th anniversary cookbook (with 250 recipes).
Here, there has been the usual updating with new nutrition values plus
another 30 recipes, to be at 280 preps in all. If you have the 40th
book, then you may safely pass up this one – unless you want the latest
tips and the newest PointsPlus values. All courses are covered, from
breakfasts through lunches, entrees, meatless, Italian faves, side
dishes, and desserts. Very useful if you don't have the earlier
edition. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price
rating: 87.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 3, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 3, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

+72975 ZONTE'S FOOTSTEP LAKE DOCTOR SHIRAZ Langhorne Creek, South
Australia 2010 $16.95: excellent syrah flavours, much better than the
five chosen for the mini-release. Buy it up! QPR: 90.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

+535104 ST. HALLETT BLACKWELL SHIRAZ Barossa, South Australia 2009
$34.95

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. +336883 DOURTHE TERROIRS D'EXCEPTION CROIX DES BOUQUETS Graves 2011
$16.95: nice example of oak aged white Bordeaux, complex, finishes
w=ell with citric tones. 12% ABV. QPR: 89.
2. +328617 DOMAINE CAPMARTIN PACHERENC DU VIC-BILH AC Guy Capmartin,
Vign.-Récolt. 2011 $15.95: very aromatic with garrigue notes, citric
finish, value priced. 14% ABV. QPR: 89
3. +231282 KEN FORRESTER RESERVE CHENIN BLANC WO Stellenbosch 2011
$17.95: some oaking enhances the concentrated chenin flavours, leaning
to an herbal note. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
4. +336073 LUA CHEIA EM VINHAS VELHAS DOC Douro, Old Vines Wines &
Winemakers by Saven 2011 $15.95: orchard fruit and a pronounced length
from this "old vines" value wine. 13% ABV. QPR: 89.
5. +112227 DOMAINE CHEVALLIER CHABLIS AC Claude & Jean-Louis
Chevallier, Prop.-Récolt. 2010 $19.95: excellent MVC Chablis texture
and tones, for under $20. Some concentration. 12.5% ABV. QPR; 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. +346759 HINTERBROOK DEEPLY RED CABERNET MERLOT VQA Niagara Lakeshore
2011 $15.95: plenty of smoke for such a modestly-priced wine, along
with black fruit tones. $13.95. QPR: 89.
2. +684597 SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA DE FAMILIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON Maipo
Valley 2009 $17.95: a robust wine, loaded with toast-mocha-black fruit
and other Bordeaux-like complexities. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
3. +325449 Q PINOT NOIR Casablanca Valley Quintay 2011 $16.95:
mushrooms and underbrush tend to dominate this oaky pinot, definitely
meant for food. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
4. +341180 L'HÉRITAGE DU MARQUIS DE GREYSSAC RÉSERVE AP, Élevé en Fût
de Chêne 2009 $15.95: long a standard Bordeaux in the US, this now re-
configured wine shows stunning oak treatment and lushness. 13.5% ABV.
QPR: 89.
5. +264549 DOMAINE DE ROCHEBIN CLOS ST. GERMAIN VIEILLES VIGNES
BOURGOGNE AC 2011 $18.95: nothing beats an "old vines" burgundy, and to
have one at this price level is amazing. Buttery spices and a long
finish. 12.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
6. +330761 LANCIOLA CHIANTI COLLI FIORENTINI DOCG 2010 $15.95: tastes
older than the label indicates, but an MVC chianti based on the older
style. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
7. +723452 ONDARRE RESERVA DOCa Rioja 2006 $17.95: some of these
Spanish Riojas seem to have "clearout" prices – time to snap them up.
Ondarre is one of the best for the old style, with Tempranillo blend
and both US and French oaks. Lush and plush. 12.8% ABV. QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. +351486 GREENLANE OLD VINES RIESLING VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara
Peninsula 2011 $22.95 retail.
2. +328898 ROLLY GASSMANN RIESLING AC Alsace 2009 $20.95
3. +695908 DOMAINE DES FINES CAILLOTTES POUILLY-FUMÉ AC Jean Pabiot &
Fils 2011 750 $22.95
4. +339861 BRUNEL DE LA GARDINE CROZES-HERMITAGE 2010 $22.95
5. +330001 CHANSON PÈRE & FILS BEAUNE CLOS DU ROI 1ER CRU AC 2010
$48.95
6. +927913 LEALTANZA GRAN RESERVA DOC Rioja Bodegas Altanza 2005 $29.95
7. +159970 CLOUDLINE PINOT NOIR Oregon 2009 $22.95
8. +334458 CASSINI CELLARS GEWÜRZTRAMINER/MUSCAT 2011 VQA BC $21.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been
around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are
automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or
TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing
guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most
of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the
restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these
books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved.
Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or
recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be
related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are
American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients;
sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there
is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite
recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on
"demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of
the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes
to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food
writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books)
don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? They all claim to be
kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food
researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and
advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant
world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity
books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much
self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo
shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other
celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited,
they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

 

11. A TIME TO COOK; dishes from my southern sideboard (Gibbs Smith,
2013, 184 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3114-9, $35 US hard covers) is by
James T. Farmer III, currently an editor-at-large with Southern Living
Magazine. He's a landscape designer with several books to his credit.
He's also appeared many times on national and regional television. Here
he gives us his family recipes for southern food. But also he gives us
stories and photos of his plates, silvers and linens which have been
passed down. Much of the book is decorative with these heirlooms,
emphasizing arrangements, but there are also memoirish episodes dealing
with menus and southern life. He's got a Sunday dinner (country fried
steak, butterbeans, buttermilk whipped potatoes, yeast rolls, tomatoes)
and a New Year's Day menu (pork loin, collards, hoppin' john,
cornbread, black-eyed peas, pecan pie). There's a summer garden dinner,
a fish fry, a "breakfast for supper", classics, and a low-cal/low-fat
menu. There's a huge section on salads and apps, followed by veggies
and soups, meats, eggs, breads, desserts, pickles and preserves. A
virtually complete book, down to resources for shopping online for
plants, antiques, farms, and markets. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of
metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

12. PATISSERIE AT HOME; step-by-step recipes to help you master the art
of French pastry (Ryland Peters & Small, 2013, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-
84975-354-8, $27.95 US hard covers) is by Will Torrent, and award-
winning chef who has worked with Blumenthal and Oliver, and at
Claridges, The Dorchester and The Fat Duck, while appearing on UK
television. He gives us recipes for feather-light chocolate and coffee
éclairs filled with pastry cream, classic lemon tart, buttery
croissants, and more: 80 French pastries in all. There are step-by-step
photos and careful techniques. Chapters cover patisserie, tarts, petits
fours, gateaux and desserts, and viennoiserie, beginning with an
extensive chapter on basic techniques. Superb layout, but no gluten-
free flours are used. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
both metric and avoirdupois measurements, with no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

13. SAVORY BITES; meals you can make in your cupcake pan (Stewart,
Tabori & Chang, 2013, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-61769-019-8, $27.50 US hard
covers) is by Hollis Wilder, a two-time "Cupcake Wars" champion and the
owner of SweetbyHolly, a small chain in Florida. She's also been on the
Food Network and the Cooking Channel. The preps call for a 12-well
classic cupcake pan, but you can also use a larger muffin tin. Here is
a variety of small bites, most of which will not dribble down your chin
if properly made. She's got them for breakfast, with eggs and cheese,
pasta and rice, veggies, seafood, poultry and meats. It is all good
stuff, particularly since you do it yourself for a meal or a party. The
preps are quick to cook, the instructions are detailed, and there is a
certain panache when served. Try welsh rarebits with apple ketchup,
eggplant pasta timbales with beef ragu, risottos with green veggies,
lamb tagine hand pies, turkey-apple-sweet potato pies, or avocado
mousses with shrimp and mango. Egg roll wrappers or purchased pie dough
are used, for simplicity sake. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

 

14. PLUM; gratifying vegan dishes from Seattle's Plum Bistro (Sasquatch
Books, 2013; distr. by Random House Canada, 142 pages, ISBN 978-1-
57061-791-1, $29.95 US and CAN hard covers) is by Makini Howell, a
lifelong vegan who has created a group of restaurants, Plum
Restaurants. The group is focused on organically-grown seasonal
vegetables, non-GMO soy, and organic and local fruits and herbs from
family-owned farms. The preps in this book are derived from these
Seattle-based restaurants (www.plumbistro.com). It's arranged by
course: apps, salads, soups, small plates, tofu-tempeh-seitan, raw,
pasta, grains and desserts. Most preps make four servings, and there
are stories behind the recipes. Try savoury French toast, lemon dill
aioli, raw kale and seaweed salad with fresh tofu, cauliflower bisque
with fresh fennel, and habanero yam soup. Gluten-free recipes are
indicated with a (GF) icon. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

15. VEGAN SECRET SUPPER; bold & elegant menus from a rogue kitchen
(Arsenal Press, 2013, 220 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-496-2, $26.95 US and
CAN soft covers) is by Merida Anderson, hostess and chef for VSS pop-up
supper clubs for diners in Montreal, Vancouver and New York (for five
years now). The food is "modern", "sophisticated", multi-course, and
plant-based; the blend is with community eating and social dining. A
large part of her repertoire is haute cuisine, but she deals nicely
with home cooked food too, also with flavour pairings, menu planning,
and plating tips for entertaining. There are 150 preps here for soups,
salads, mains, breads, grain dishes, desserts, brunch ideas, and
beverages. There is also a very useful vegan pantry with some 32 items,
including roasted garlic, smoky balsamic marinade, miso sesame
shiitakes, miso cashew cheese, apple tamarind chutney, gomashio,
rosemary olive oil, anise-toasted sunflower seeds, and quick pickled
beets. This is a treasure trove, but with only a handful of gluten-free
alternatives. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric
volumes and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.

 

16. ULTIMATE NACHOS; from nachos and guacamole to salsas and cocktails
(St. Marin's Griffin, 2013; distr. Raincoast, 134 pages, ISBN 978-1-
250-01654-6, $19.99 US soft covers) is from the founders of NACHOS NY
and GUACACULAR, Lee Frank and Rachel Anderson. Frank is also the
managing editor of Nachos NY, while Anderson is also a working chef de
cuisine in Brooklyn at Robicelli's Bakery. Together, they have crafted
something of a guy book for male cooks. There are more than 80 preps
for any time of day, and all feature gooey toppings and treats, the
sort of thing males like to put in their mouths. Nothing wrong with
that: but the book is a pleasant change from the BBQ manuals that pour
into my home office. It's party food, along with great beers and other
sparklers. There's some advance log rolling from Rick Rodgers, Roberto
Santibanez, and Adriana Adarme. The chapters cover salsa, guacamole,
queso, small bite nachos, breakfast, mains, and desserts, finishing
with drinks. Typical are Buffalo chicken nachos, bacon-apple guacamole,
asparagus in nachos with hollandaise sauce, black and blue burger
nachos, fried calamari nachos, and nacho dumplings with ginger-sesame
salsa and avocado-horseradish crema. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

17. SMOKE AND PICKLES; recipes and stories from a new Southern kitchen
(Artisan, 2013, 292 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-492-4, $29.95 US hard
covers) is by Edward Lee, chef/owner of 610 Magnolia in Louisville,
Kentucky. He's been a two-time Beard finalist for Best Chef, he's spent
14 weeks on Top Chef, and he also writes about food (Organic Gardening,
Gastronomica). There's some heavy duty log rolling here from David
Chang (Momofuku) and Anthony Bourdain. This is Southern food with an
Asian twist, a sort of Southern fusion food. Part of the book (pigs)
had earlier been published in Gastronomica. It is an interesting book
in that he manages to combine the takes of Korean pickling with
Southern pickling (hence the title). As he says, "what I cook is who I
am". There's material on lamb, beef, birds, pigs, seafood, pickles,
veggies, bourbon and buttermilk. Preps include rice bowl with lamb and
aromatic tomato-yogurt gravy, lime beef salad, Kentucky fried quail,
panfried catfish in bacon vinaigrette, kabocha squash mac 'n' cheese,
and fried green tomato-cilantro relish. Good index. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

18. HOW TO ROAST A PIG; from oven-roasted tenderloin to slow-roasted
pulled pork shoulder to the sit-roasted whole hog (Quarry Books, 2013,
160 pages, ISBN 978-1-59253-787-7, $24.99 US soft covers) is by Tom
Rea, who started his career in a gastro-pub and worked through southern
England and France in pubs and bistros. Currently, he teaches cooking
and catering. This book is a very worthwhile introduction to the pig:
where to buy, what to look for, cooking equipment needed, roasting
styles, how to handle leftovers, and how to deal with a whole pig
(snout to tail). I checked the index for "squeal", but alas,
nothing…It's a comprehensive book, with a good index to the recipes.
The pig is broken down cut-by-cut with step-by-step details for working
with each cut. Side dishes are also covered, but there are other books
that can handled this matter. What he does excel in are all the sauces,
smoking, and glazes. Try pork and caramelized apple terrine, Cajun
pork, Chinese-glazed pork belly, Jamaican jerk pork chops, and smoked
ham. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

 

19. RECIPES FROM MY HOME KITCHEN; Asian and American comfort food
(Rodale, 2013, 206 pages, ISBN 978-1-62336-094-8, $23.99 US hard
covers) is by Christine Ha, the winner of Season 3 of MasterChef. She's
also legally blind. There is little more I can say than to quote Gordon
Ramsay, a MasterChef judge: "The lady has an extraordinary palate. She
picks up hot ingredients, touches them, and thinks about this image on
the plate. She has the most disciplined execution on a plate that we've
ever seen." The ability to cook by sense shines through in this book.
Here are more than 75 recipes of American and Asiatic food. It is a
good basic book, with such as seaweed rice rolls, sweetbread nuggets
with bok choy, kale and mushroom chips, pulled pork, Bombay flatbread,
and more. There's a glossary, but not much on cooking by sense beyond
her Introduction. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.

 

20. FABIO'S ITALIAN KITCHEN; over 100 delicious family recipes
(Hyperion Press, 2013, 296 pages, ISBN 978-1-4013-1277-0, $24.99 US
soft covers) is by Fabio Viviani. He is now an owner of three Italian-
style restaurants in California and Chicago. He's been on Top Chef and
spinoffs, and also has a weekly Yahoo cooking channel, Chow Ciao! Here,
with log rolling from Batali, is a good introduction to traditional
Italian dishes, with some twists. His family's dishes range from apps
to desserts, and cover potato-ricotta gnocchi, meatballs, risotto with
pumpkin and walnuts, braised veal shanks, and gremolata. Other treats
include a bored lamb in Chianti and a 12-hour slow cooked pork butt.
Easy, not too complicated, but while I like octopus, it's too far out
on the fringe for this kind of book. Here's another good-looking chef
with a week's stubble…Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

21. FLOUR, TOO; indispensable recipes for the café's most loved sweets
& savories (Chronicle Books, 2013, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-45210614, $35
US hard covers) is by Joanne Chang, owner and pastry chef at Flour
Bakery + Café in Massachusetts, and co-owner of Myers + Chang. There is
some heavy-duty logrolling from five players, including David Lebovitz,
Amanda Hesser, and Dorie Greenspan. These are preps from the
establishments, cut down and reworked for the family kitchen. But if
there is anything here that uses gluten-free flour, then it is not
indexed. Lots of photos about the restaurant and staff, plus some
memoirish material on how the places run. The major arrangement is by
course, beginning with breakfast and ending with party time. The sub-
arrangement is by sweets and savouries. Breakfast seems to have typical
"brunch" preps; lunch has sandwiches, soups, salads, stews. Dinner is
salads and mains; party time is snacks and desserts. Nicely put
together and photographed. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in mainly metric and avoirdupois measurements, with some just in
avoirdupois, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/Price
Rating: 86.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Some Interesting New Cookbooks

* OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS
  ++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

3. DUTCH OVEN BAKING (Gibbs-Smith, 2013; distr. Raincoast, 128 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4236-2562-9, $15.99 US spiral bound) is by Bruce Tracy, a
2004 winner of the World Championship Cook-offs held by the
International Dutch Oven Society. He has been cooking and competing in
such events for over 20 years. His Dutch Oven is meant to be on
a bed of coals; thus, for every recipe, he lists how many hot coals
will be needed. This may limit its usage in many places. For example,
the pita bread requires 36 or so hot coals, including 12 under the oven
and 24 on the top. In general, each coal will raise the temperature
about 20 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a basic baking book, with
adaptations for banana upside-down cake, Kaiser rolls, muffin apple
cake, bacon cheese onion rolls, and similar baked goodies. Gibbs Smith
produced a similar book, DUTCH OVEN COOKING, in 2011 which concentrated
on apps and main dishes. This one is all about baked goods.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a table of metric equivalents. The basic arrangement is by
Type: crusts, crisps, tarts, pies, cakes, cobblers, quick breads and
rolls. It all appears to be finger-lickin' good and authentic.
Audience and level of use: Dutch oven users
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: about 60 recipes, including
the above and apple walnut crisp, Hawaiian tart, chocolate zucchini
cake with banana chutney, and sausage with cheese and onion loaf.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

4. THE DIABETES PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT COOKBOOK; your 10-step plan for
nutrition & lifestyle (Robert Rose, 2013, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-
0452-9, $24.95 CAN and US paper covers) is by Johanna Burkhard, a food
writer and PR consultant for the culinary, wine and tourism sector, and
by Barbara Allan, an RD and a Certified Diabetes Educator. It has been
published in cooperation with the Canadian Diabetes Association. It's
actually a useful book for the pre-diabetic stage, where blood glucose
is elevated but not high enough to be considered diabetes -- yet -–
that is, by the medical profession which managed to lower the
hypertension levels a decade ago and created HBP scares in North
America. A change in lifestyle is needed to ensure pre-diabetes does
not become the real thing. That is an absolute given. The authors
provide a strategy of ten steps, including nutritious diets, exercise,
and stress management. The 150 preps here, designed to manage pre-
diabetic conditions, blood pressure and cholesterol, are extremely
useful when displayed in a 28-day menu program. You don't need to give
up red meats: just use moderation and eliminate meat fats. There are
bibliographic references, appendices with forms for recording diet
information, a resources list, and more. A nice modestly priced book
for the curious. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
avoirdupois and metric measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

5. HEALING FATTY LIVER DISEASE; a complete health & diet guide
including 100 recipes (Robert Rose, 2013, 285 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-
0437-6, $24.95 US and CAN soft covers) is by Dr. Maitreyi Raman, a
gastroenterologist, and by Angela Sirounis, RD and Jennifer Shrubsole,
both RDs at Foothills Medical Centre. There different kinds of fatty
liver: one is caused by moderate alcohol (and can be cured by simply
stop drinking), there is NASH (nonalcoholic steatohepatisis, which can
lead to permanent damage), and there is cirrhosis (mostly from
excessive alcohol drinking). About 20 per cent of adults have fatty
livers, and many children do too. The most common causes of fatty liver
disease are obesity and diabetes mellitus. This is a lifestyle
management book, with guidance for exercise, weight loss, and dietary
fats in the first half. The 100 recipes are in the second half, and of
course it is all sensible food such as local veggie scrambled eggs,
tandoori haddock, Thai turkey stir fry, mango mousse, orange-cranberry
flax muffins, sweet and sour pork, and eggplant lasagna – many with
variations. It's not meatless, and there is plenty of choice. The key
apparently is high fibre, healthy fats and Vitamin D. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

 

 

6. THE VEGETARIAN PANTRY; fresh and modern recipes for meals without
meat (Ryland Peters and Small, 2013, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-344-9,
$24.95 US hard covers) is by Chloe Coker and Jane Montgomery. Both had
professional careers and then moved on to Leiths School of Food and
Wine for cheffing classes. Here they detail the use of seasonal veggies
with a pantry for condiments and the like. The whole range is here:
breakfast, brunch, small bites, dips, salsas, sauces, salads, soups,
mains and sweets. It has a slightly British orientation, in spelling
and words, but that's not a problem. A solid introduction: potato and
celeriac rosti with spinach and mushrooms and a poached egg; saffron
and pepper frittata with roasted garlic aioli; lemon and mushroom
risotto balls; roasted vegetable salad with grilled halloumi, arugula
and basil oil. About 65 recipes. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in metric weight and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 85.

 

7. THE VEGAN BAKER; more than 50 delicious recipes for vegan-friendly
cakes, cookies, bars and other baked treats (Ryland Peters and Small,
2013, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-351-7, $24.95 US hard covers) is by
Dunja Gulin, a cooking teacher and chef in Zagreb, who has also written
"Raw Food Kitchen" for the same publisher. She shows how to bake
without eggs, butter and milk (and without refined sugar too). Just
about every ingredient can be purchased now at larger supermarkets.
Chapters cover cakes and muffins, slices and bars, cookies and
biscuits, pies and tarts, breads and savoury baking. Special treats
include baked pancakes, pockets with sweet fillings, sugar-free Italian
Easter buns, crescent rolls, and plum dumplings. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents. And there is the bonus of the
usual great RPS photography. Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

8. PINOT ENVY; murder, mayhem, and mystery in Napa (Bancroft Press,
2013, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-61088-089-3 $21.95 US hardbound) is by
Edward Finstein, my long-time colleague in the Wine Writers' Circle of
Canada. He's at www.winedoctor.ca where he dispenses wine knowledge.
Here, in his first novel, he is applying some of that skill in tracking
down, by investigatory work, rare artifacts in the wine business
through his op, Woody Robins, who practices in the Napa. In the plot,
Woody's been hired by a wealthy collector to track down a stolen
double-magnum red Burgundy that once belonged to Napoleon. He works
with a girlfriend and his Aunt Sadie, as well as a friend within the
'Frisco police department. There are the usual scandals and murders
along the way. It is well-plotted and moves from page-to-page. It
should certainly appeal to those mysteries' fans who are tired of twee
mysteries dealing with cooking subplots: here's a hard-driven, hard-
bitten story in the roman noir style, so much so, that it should
actually be called PINOT NOIR (but I guess that name has already been
taken). Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

9. VEGETABLE OF THE DAY; 365 recipes for every day of the year (Weldon
Owen, 2012; distr. Simon & Schuster, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-495-1,
$34.95 US hard covers) is by Kate Macmillan, who runs a catering
company and teaches at Tante Marie's in San Francisco. She has also
authored a similar book on 365 days of soups for W-S. It is one of the
Williams-Sonoma cookbook series, so it would be prominently featured in
its stores. There's a veggie recipe for each day of the year, with lots
of plated photos. Arrangement is by month, and then by day, with a
calendar. Of course, you don't have to follow the dates. But it is a
chance to view seasonal foods and to choose for a weeknight supper or a
weekend dinner party. There are notes regarding leftovers, ingredient
substitutions, and garnishes. Other variations include type of crockery
use, upscaling or downscaling the dish, and types of herbs.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Not
completely meat-free since pancetta is called for in at least one
recipe. There are two indexes: one by alphabetical name of ingredient,
the other by type (Asian-style dishes, egg dishes, grain-based,
gratins, grilled, pickles, salads, stews, stir-fries, etc.)
Audience and level of use: vegetarians and those looking for new ideas.
Some interesting or unusual recipes: as I write this review, I should
be consuming (May 14) roasted broccolini with garlic and lemon, spring
veggie tart (May 15), or Sauteed fresh peas with shredded romaine. On
Friday, I get fava beans with pecorino.
The downside to this book: the actual listing of a recipe per a certain
day may seem a bit to confining to some. At least one prep uses meat.
The upside to this book: it encourages SLOFE principles (seasonal,
local, organic, fast, and easy).
Quality/Price Rating: 87. 

 

10. SMOKE & SPICE; recipes for seasonings, rubs, marinades, brines,
glazes & butters (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2013, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-
84975-350-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Valerie Aikman-Smith, a food
stylist (film, TV, books) and writer (magazines, books). The 90 preps
here emphasize the flavours to be added to the BBQ grill. For example,
for pork, try the smoky chili BBQ sauce or the bourbon glazed pork
chops or the szechuan rub (also the Cajun crispy pork belly). Pork also
needs an apple cider brine. Moving to lamb, there's lavender salt
crusted leg of lamb, mint and lemon kebabs, pomegranate rack of lamb
with harissa sauce, or date lamb tagine. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. The book is completed by a list of
online resources and some sharp photography.
Audience and level of use: the adventuresome BBQ fancier.
Some interesting or unusual recipes: in addition to the above, try
cherry-glazed duck skewers, Jamaican jerk chicken, spiced red snapper,
caramelized beet tatin with marinated goat cheese, or matahambre beef
marinade.
The downside to this book: I wanted more, especially in veggies and
fish.
The upside to this book: good idea for a book.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

PEPPER; a history of the world's most influential spice (St.
Martin's Press, 2013, 302 pages, ISBN 978-0-312-56989-1, $26.99 US hard
covers) is by Marjorie Shaffer, a business and science writer currently
at New York University School of Medicine. She's crafted details about
what is arguably the most important of the taste spices: black pepper.
It's not a thorough history of European pepper trading in Asia, but it
does examine why – and how – our forebears wanted a single product. As
such, it is also the business history of the trading routes and
regions. And there are also some pages on the US pepper fortunes. The
colour section is loaded with visuals of plants, plantations, older
woodcuts, and early drawings. She's got maps of the Indian Ocean,
India, Malaysia and Indonesia so that readers can track the trade
routes. There are copious end notes, a well-researched bibliography,
and a workable index. But no recipes.
Audience and level of use: culinary historians, collectors of food
history books, libraries.
Some interesting or unusual facts: pepper routes were full of misery
and death for Europeans: traveling thousands of miles in unsafe ships,
too light anchors, many sinkings, and disease.
The downside to this book: I would have liked a few more coloured
pages.
The upside to this book: a good popular read on a valuable subject.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1. THE WORLD OF SICILIAN WINE (University of California Press, 2013,
307 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-26618-6, $34.95 US hard covers) is by Bill
Nesto, MW, and Frances Di Savino. Nesto is a founder of the Wine
Studies Program at Boston University, and has written for many food and
beverage magazines. This is a basic – but comprehensive – dive into a
regional wine, from ancient times through modern changes. It's a guide
with 5 small sketch maps that are more illustrative than useful.
Nevertheless, there is plenty of textual material covering origins,
varieties, geography, viticulture and winemaking, plus an exploration
of the three valleys (Mazara, Noto, and Demone). The island is
important because it was an early Mediterranean cross-roads, with
impact from Greek and Phoenician traders and settlers beginning in the
eighth century BCE. Many conquests happened over the years, but the
indigenous grape varieties continued to flourish (Nero d'avola, Nerllo
mascalese, Frappato, Grillo, and others). With the internationalization
of the wine business, international grape varieties sprung up along
with modern wine methods. Over the years, wines were blended, but
lately there have been more exports of indigenous varieties braced up
by small amounts of global grapes. There are descriptions of the
leading wineries and the DOC areas, as well as tasting notes. The book
concludes with end notes and bibliographic references for further
reading. This is a major contribution to knowledge about Italian
viticultural history.
Audience and level of use: lovers of Italian wines, libraries, wine
book collectors.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Grillo vineyards occupy about 6000
hectares (5.2 per cent of total vineyards in Sicily), and DNA shows
Zibibbo and Catarratto as parents.
The downside to this book: some detailed (not outlined) maps would have
been useful.
The upside to this book: a nicely written specialized regional wine
book.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Tasting Hitching Post wines (Santa Barbara) at the Albany Club, June 27

 The Date and Time:  Thursday, June 27, 2013   11AM to 3PM
The Event: tasting Hitching Post wines (Santa Barbara)
The Venue: Albany Club
The Target Audience: wine writers and sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: LCBO distribution channels
The Quote/Background: Gray Hartley, one of the founder-winemakers, was
Alaskan salmon fisherman for decades. His partner Frank Ostini is chef-
owner of Hitching Post Restaurant in Buellton, CA. Their focus has been
pinot noir since 1981 (they make 10 of them annually, along with two
syrahs, a merlot, and blend with some cab franc and merlot [Generation
Red]. Their philosophy is balance between fresh fruit, spices, and
earth complexity. They are repped by Glen Ward Wines.
The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hitching Post Hometown 2010 Pinot Noir: $26.95, +256644 (2009 at
Vintages now, 2010 coming Oct). 14.7% very good consistency, but dark
and brooding fruit and spice. Needs time.
-Hitching Post Cork Dancer 2010 Pinot Noir: $34.75 (2009 at Vintages
Online for $27). Oaky, with dark berries.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Hitching Post Pinks 2012 Rose, $22 consignment: named after salmons, a
quality rose with juiciness. Half valdiguie/grenache grapes, with 5%
pinot.
-Hitching Post Highliner 2009, $49.95 (2007 at Vintages Online) –
Highliner refers to the best fisherman, and this is one of their best
pinot noirs from Santa Barbara. Mouth filling but a hot finish from a
tough year.

 

Other wines at the LCBO system, but not tasted, include Hitching Coast
Fiddlestix Pinot Noir 2006 ($39, +316018), Perfect Set Pinot Noir 2007
($75, +271437), Julia's Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 ($43, +329565) and St.
Rita's Earth Pinot Noir 2009 ($49, +329532).

 

The Food: sandwiches (ham, beef, cheese, salmon, etc.)
The Downside: I had a medical appointment, so I was a bit late.
The Upside: a chance to talk with Gray Hartley.
The Contact Person: malcolmc@sentex.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Best of Beamsville Bench, EPIC Restaurant Fairmont Royal York June 27/13

 The Date and Time:  Thursday, June 27, 2013   6Pm to 10 PM
The Event: Best of Beamsville Bench
The Venue: EPIC Restaurant, Fairmont Royal York
The Target Audience: consumers, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: I was an invited guest, along with my wife,
to try out one wine from each of Angels Gate, Bachelder, Fielding,
Hidden Bench, Malivoire, Rosewood, Rennie Winery, and Thirty Bench.
The Quote/Background: along with Tyler Yarema Trio for some light jazz,
it was a show of exciting wines from VQA Beamsville Bench of Niagara.
Wines were paired with locally inspired foods from EPIC's new chef de
cuisine Joshua Dyer.
The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bachelder Chardonnay Niagara 2010
-Fairmont Sparkler Angel Gate 100% Chardonnay
-30 Bench Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard 2011

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Malivoire Chardonnay Moira 2009
-Hidden Bench Pinot Noir 2009
-Rosewood Reserve Merlot 2009
-Rennie Winery Appasimento 2010 [merlot50/cabranc25/cabsauv25] 16.5%
ABV

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fielding Pinot Gris 2011

 

The Food: there was a platter of Italian style charcuterie, cheeses (no
blues, unfortunately), and breads. The staff brought out pass around
platters of shrimp with remoulade, scallops and pea shoot risotto (best
plate here tonight), bison and tubers, fried wedge of baby artichoke
with potato croquette and date sauce. There may have been more, but we
left by 7:15, having noshed and tasted all the wines.
The Downside: it was lightly attended.
The Upside: a chance to talk to wineries and agents.
The Contact Person: Catherine.Tschannen@fairmont.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Sip & Savour Ontario (locally grown food paired with VQA wines, June 19

The Date and Time: Wednesday, June 19, 2013   6:30 PM to 10 PM
The Event: Sip & Savour Ontario (locally grown food paired with VQA
wines)
The Venue: Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District
The Target Audience: consumers, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue listed details about the
wines (prices, availability), the Ontario Wine Award winners, the OWA
judging team, the food pairing establishments, and Houselink (charity
partner).
The Quote/Background: there were also live culinary demos, featuring
Chef Brad Livergant from The Fifth, Debbie Levy from Dairy Farmers of
Canada, and Chef Charles Kerr of Distillery Events catering.
The Wines: I could not sample every wine – there were too many of them!
Most wines were available through the winery, but some are also at the
LCBO.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-13th Street Winery Cuvee 13 Rose, $24.95
-Creekside Estate Broken Press Syrah 2008, $39.95
-Creekside Laura's White 2011, $18.95 Vintages
-Creekside Lost Barrel Red 2007, $65
-Huff Estates Cuvee Peter F. Huff 2007, $39.95 Vintages
-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Brut 2009, $22.95 Vintages
-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2011, $14.95 Vintages
-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Shiraz 2011, $24.95 Vintages
-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2010, $30 Vintages
-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2009, $40 Vintages
-Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir 2009, $40 Vintages
-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay "Damy" 2011, $21.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-13th Street Winery June's Vineyard Riesling 2011, $19.95 Vintages
-Trius Red 2011, $22.95 LCBO
-Cattail Creek Estate Creek Series Riesling 2012, $14.95 LCBO
-Cattail Creek Estate Series Simply Stainless Chardonnay 2012, $16.95
-Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2012, $14.95 Vintages
-Colchester Ridge Estate Winery Grand CREW 2008, $50
-Colchester Ridge Estate Winery CREW Riesling 2011, $14
-Fresh Moscato 2012, $11.95
-G. Marquis Riesling Red Line 2011, $11.95 LCBO
-G. Marquis Chardonnay Silver Line 2011, $16.95 Vintages
-Huff Estates South Bay Chardonnay 2010, $29.95 Vintages
-Inniskillin Discovery Series P3 2012 [PG/PN/PB], $19.95
-Inniskillin Reserve Series Viognier 2012, $19.95
-Konzelmann Estate Gewurztraminer 2011, $14.75 LCBO
-Niagara College Teaching Winery Dean's List Chardonnay 2009, $28.15
-Nyarai Cellars Viognier 2012, $21.95
-Nyarai Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $19.95
-Rockway Vineyards Small Lot Reserve Chardonnay 2011, $18.95
-Rockway Vineyards Small Lot Reserve White Assemblage 2011, $16.95
-Southbrook Cabernet Franc Rose 2011, $19.95 Vintages
-Vineland Estates Chardonnay Musque 2010, $14.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Trius Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $13.95 LCBO
-Casa-Dea Estates Chardonnay 2010, $15.95
-Colchester Ridge Estate Winery CREW Chardonnay 2011, $13
-Colio Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $15.95
-G. Marquis Merlot Red Line 2011, $12.95 LCBO
-G. Marquis Pinot Noir Silver Line 2011, $19.95 Vintages
-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2010, $30 Vintages
-Mike Weir Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $14.95 LCBO
-Mike Weir Chardonnay 2009, $14.95 LCBO

 

The Food: wine pairing is always a problem at a consumer show – the
lights are dim, the wine must be swallowed, and you might want to re-
taste the food with another wine. Nevertheless, we soldier on. The best
display was Summer Fresh dips and sauces: they had a well-lit lounge
with crackers and veggies, plus more than a half-dozen of their 20 or
so dips, all accompanied by just one wine pairing (a Crush Riesling
Gewurztraminer 2011 which went rather well against such an assortment
of sauce flavours). Most food stations were tables where samples could
be picked up, and most had just short lineups. The Fifth provided a red
fife crepe with duck confit, the Dairy Farmers had three cheeses (Tre
Stelle Feta, Mountainbrook Aged Gouda, and Empire 4-year old cheddar,
all exceptional), Distillery Events featured smoked and cured candied
salmon with house bannock, and Aria Ristorante had a chilled zucchini
soup with shrimp "chips". Barque had exquisitely smoked salmon, Crush
Wine Bar produced halibut fired fish sliders on house buns, while the
Houselink Food Program had an eggplant appetizer on cracker. Bernardin
showed off its pepper and garlic jelly bruschetta and veggie antipasto,
Stonemill was the "official bread sponsor" and Q Water the "official
water sponsor",  while Popelin had innovative choux a la crème for
Icewine pairing.
The Downside: as it was a consumer show, the lights were lowered, so it
was difficult to actually see the wine and much of the food.
The Upside: a chance to re-try some of the wines I had blindly judged.
The Contact Person: tony.aspler@rogers.com; sandy@forefrontcom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Top Wines from Chile for Licensees.June 17

The Date and Time: Monday, June 17, 2013  11AM to 2:30 PM
The Event: Top Wines from Chile for Licensees.
The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall lobby
The Target Audience: licensees plus a few wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: everything was available for licensees
through the distribution channels.
The Quote/Background: It was a reception style walk about tasting,
followed by a sit down tutored tasting and lunch featuring eight wines
paired with different kinds of animal protein. Chris Waters of Vines
magazine provided the insightful tasting discourses, while Marcela
Burgos, WSET instructor, commented on the Chilean wine scene in
general, notably the terroir.
The Wines: Prices are normally licensee.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bisquertt Ecos de Rulo Single Vineyard Carmenere Colchagua, $19.95 
Vonterra
-Casa Marin Cartegena Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $16.95 Cons Small
Winemakers
-Concha y Toro Don Melchior Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo, $79.95
+315176 Select
-Perez Cruz Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2010, $15.95 Charton Hobbs

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Casa Marin Cartegena Pinot Noir Tres Vinedos 2012, $22.95 Cons Small
Winemakers
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo, $19.95
-Arboleda Chardonnay 2011, $19.95   Ponte
-Bisquertt La Joya Gran Reserva Syrah, $15.95 Vonterra
-Carmen Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, $15.13
-Carmen Reserva Carmenere, $10.23
-Errazuriz Max Reserva Syrah 2011, $18.95  P.Dandurand
-Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, $18.95  P.Dandurand
-Carmin de Peumo Carmenere 2008, $120  Select
-Maquis Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua 2009    P.O. Ackerman Wine and
Spirits
-Miguel Torres Santa Digna Cab Sauvignon 2011     Family Wine Merchants
-Miguel Torres Las Mulas Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2011     Family Wine
Merchants
-San Esteban In Situ Signature Chardonnay – Viognier 2011, $15.95  MCO
-San Esteban In Situ Carmenere Gran Reserva 2009, $16.95  MCO
-San Esteban In Situ Winemakers Selection Carmenere 2010, $13.95  MCO
-Santa Alicia Gran Reserva Carmenere 2010, $19.95   Eurovintage
-Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2011,  $11.95  Charton Hobbs
-Santa Carolina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $11.95
-Santa Rita Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $13.95 Mark Anthony
-Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mapu Merlot, $8.89  Vintages Licensee
Wines

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2010, $19.95
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Pinot Noir 2011, $19.95
-Errazuriz Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, $15.95  P.Dandurand
-Luis Felipe Edwards Terra Vega Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $9.95  Noble
-Luis Felipe Edwards Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $13.95  Noble
-Vina Maipo Reserva Vitral Chardonnay 2012, $13.95 Select
-Maquis Lien Colchagua 2009    P.O. Ackerman Wine and Spirits
-Maquis Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua 2010    P.O. Ackerman Wine and
Spirits
-Maquis Rose [Malbec] Colchagua 2012, $19.95    P.O. Ackerman Wine and
Spirits
-San Pedro Tarapaca 35 South Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $12.95
P.Dandurand
-San Pedro Tarapaca Organic 35 South Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012,
$12.95 P.Dandurand
-San Pedro Tarapaca 1865 Carmenere 2010, $19.95 P.Dandurand
-Santa Alicia Reserva Carmenere 2012, $12.95   Eurovintage
-Santa Alicia Gran Reserva Carmenere 2010, $12.95   Eurovintage
-Santa Carolina Reserva Chardonnay 2011, $11.95
-Santa Rita Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $17.95 Mark Anthony
-Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mapu Sauvignon Blanc, $8.89  Vintages
Licensee Wines

 

The Food: There were four courses, with two wines apiece for an A/B
comparison with the food. First up was a seafood chowder with shrimp,
and clams, poised with two sauvignon blancs. It was a good pairing.
Next, there was a filet of salmon with fresh veggie julienne,
accompanied by a chardonnay/viognier blend, and a pinot noir. This was
less successful, both wines being strongly aromatic and fruity without
the acidic spine. The third course was roast Cornish game hen with
quinoa, punched up with two carmeneres. The single vineyard version was
superb. For the fourth course, the braised short ribs on mashed
potatoes was partnered with two cabs, but only the Don Melchior really
shone (as it should, costing $79.95).
The Downside: I was a bit disappointed in that retail Vintages and
General List products were there – I just assumed that it would be
consignment or private order of "licensee only" wines. Indeed, one of
the wines was skedded for a January 2014 release, so it was actually
"unavailable" for purchase.
The Upside: a chance to taste and re-taste Chilean wines between their
annual trade show in October.
The Contact Person: lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
87.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 20, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 20, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

**** Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2010 VQA Niagara-on-the-
Lake: uses chardonnay clone 809 (16-year old vines), an almost in-your-
face aromatic honeysuckle with some "muscat" quality. Gold Medal at OWA
for Unoaked Chardonnays. 13.5%, useful for social sipping or with
lighter white meats. Twist top. +640516, $16.95, QPR: 91.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

**** Fantino Cascina Dardi Bussia Barolo Riserva 2004, +268524, $39.95.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Angel's Gate Mountainview Chardonnay 2010 VQA Beamsville Bench:
excellent wood and toast, with alluring fruit, right through to the
finish. +116384, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Caliterra Tributo Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 Casablanca: very
charming chardonnay in a bottle – 13.5% ABV, twist top. Cream dominates
orchard fruit. +144709, $15.95, QPR: 89.
3. Auntsfield Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Southern Valleys
Marlborough: textbook kiwi savvy herbs, but assertive in style, in-
your-face aromatics. One of the real winners I found at the NZ trade
show in May (I had seconds). Twist top. +663286, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2012 WO Stellenbosch: a very pleasant (and
affordable) cross between chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc, 13.5% ABV.
Twist top. Gold Medalist. +981167, $12.95, QPR: 89.
5. Cave de Saumur Secrets de Chai Saumur Blanc 2011: all chenin, and
very close to savvy (as the Simonsig above), but more floral. Gold
Medalist. +322677, $13.95, QPR: 89.
6. La Ferme du Mont La Truffiere 2011 Cotes du Rhone: very rounded
blend of Rhone white grape fruit (grenache blanc, viognier, clairette),
good spine for first course foods. 13% ABV. +234716, $15.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Vizcarra Senda Del Oro Roble 2011 Ribera del Duero: textbook style
but early evolving wine of French and US oak tones (vanilla, coconut)
along with some berries. Organic. 14.5%, +331249, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Tamaya Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Limari: another textbook
example of Latin American cabernet sauvignon destined for the North
American market – rich dark black currants with milk chocolate
overtones. BBQ anyone? +292367, $14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Small Gully The Formula Robert's Shiraz 2008 South Australia: points
given for well-aging (five years old now) and a whopping 15.9% ABV.
Twist top. The wine? Overthetop shiraz ripeness to stand up to BBQ.
+142935, $18.95, QPR: 89.
4. Chateau de La Grave Caractere 2009 Cotes de Bourg: Graves character?
Close, but no gravel. Atypical Bordeaux. Rich and full as the Yanks
like it, 14% ABV. BBQ all the way. +224683, $17.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvee Notre Dame Corbieres 2009: good price,
spices and black plumy fruits. Some smoke, 14% ABV. Another BBQ wine.
+269522, $16.95, QPR: 89.
6. Olarra Cerro Anon Reserva 2006 Rioja: good oaking, with coconut
tones, aged now almost 7 years (two in US oak). Bargain price. 14% ABV.
Excellent example of a wood-aged Rioja. +114306, $17.95, QPR: 90.
7. Monasterio de Las Vinas Gran Reserva 2005 Carinena: at 60% garnacha,
this is the LCBO's "Almost Garnacha of the Month". 13% ABV. +82024,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Vina Berceo Crianza 2008 Rioja: nicely aged mid-weight Rioja with
good oak tones of spicings and vanilla. 13.5% ABV. +672824, $16.95,
QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Bachelder Wismer Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 VQA Twenty Mile Bench,
+345819, $44.95 retail.
2. Charles Baker Piccone Vineyard Riesling 2010 VQA Vinemount Ridge,
+241182, $35.20.
3. Tollgate Fume Blanc 2009 VQA Niagara, +335711, $24.95.
4. Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2011 WO Hemel-en-Aarde, +931006, $32.95
5. Chateau Genot-Boulanger Clos du Cromin Meursault 2010, +330043,
$49.95.
6. Gann Family Cellars Pinot Noir 2009 Russian River Valley Sonoma,
+327510, $44.95.
7. Domus Vitae Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +330746, $45.95.
8. Fontalpino Chianti Classico 2010, +275859, $23.95.
9. Castello di Bossi Renieri Invetro 2010 IFT Toscana, +330696, $20.95
10. Bolla Le Origini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007, +204792,
$39.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com