Search This Blog

Monday, September 16, 2013

Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Sparkling wine tasting, Sept 13/13

The Date and Time: Friday, September 13, 2013 10:30 AM to 1:30 PM

The Event: Annual Sparkling Wine tasting held by the WWCC, based on agency/winery submissions from an all-callout.

The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Scrivener Square

The Target Audience: WWCC members

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are in the LCBO as numbered, or consignment or Private order.

The Quote/Background: 15 WWCC members attended to get data for Holiday articles (Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year, etc.)

The Wines: I did NOT taste all 76 wines. Scores below are mine alone, and NOT an average of all WWCC tasters.

 

++MY BEST WINE of the Day was Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV $59.95 +36962, getting a double ****

 

**** MY BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV $59.95 +36962

-Louis Roederer Brut Premier  $68.95 +268771 Vintages Essential  

-Cono Sur Sparkling     $13.95 +215079    Chile            

-Champagne Henriot      NV    Henriot Brut Souverain  $59.95 +959643

-Freixenet Sonoma Caves 2001  Gloria Ferrer Carneros Cuvee  +918276 Vintages

-Champagne Devaux n/v   Cuvee Rosee 56.95 +352211     Dec 7/13 Vintages

-Bera Az Ag 2011  Moscato d'asti $13.75 +317156  Piedmont

-Piper Heidsieck  NV    Piper Heidsieck Brut    $49.95      +462432

-Charles Heidsieck      2000 Brut Millesime $99.95 +52449   Classics

-Henry of Pelham        Cuvee Catherine Rose    $29.95                 

-Jackson-Triggs Niagara 2008  ENTOURAGE Sparkling Brut $22.95 +234161

-ANGELS GATE WINERY     2011  ARCHANGEL CHARDONNAY $21.95   +227009

-Champagne Baron Fuente 2006  Grand Millesime Brut    $47.95 +155119

-Champagne Baron Fuente NV    Esprit Blanc-de-Blanc   $58   Amethyst

-Château des Charmes NV Brut Méthode Traditionnelle $22.95 +224766

-Champagne Legras et Haas NV Tradition $59.99 +5548641 Mellecey Wine Group Inc. Cyndi Grossman

 

***1/2 MY BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Movendo          Moscato     $12.95      +277244     Italy

-Chateau de Montgueret        Cremant de Loire  $19.95      +217760    

-Codorniu SA      NV    Codornniu Brut Clasico Cava   $12.95 +215814

-Segura Viudas    NV Brut Reserva Cava D.O. $14.25    +216960

-Cattier Champagne  N/V Cattier Premier Cru Champagne $39.95 +325720

-Bodegas Santa Julia N/V Organic Brut     $14.95 +314239 Mendoza 

-Taittinger nv    Brut Res    58.95                              

-Henry of Pelham        Cuvee Catherine   $25.95                 

-Henry of Pelham  2008  Catherine Carte Blanche $44.95                 

-Featherstone Winery    2009  Cuvee Joy Sparkling     $34.95 +310334

-Palatine Niagara Juliette $22.95   Chardonnay

-Cave Spring Cellars    NV    Blanc de Blancs   $29.95 +213983

-Trius Winery at Hillebrand   Trius Brut  $24.95      +284539

-13th Street Winery     2007  Grande Cuvee      $59.95      +361394

-13th Street Winery     NV    Cuvee 13 Rose     $24.95      +147504

-Peller Estates   Peller Ice Cuvee  $31.95      +284547    

-Peller Estates   Peller Ice Cuvee Rose   $34.95 +113035

-ANGELS GATE WINERY     2009  ARCHANGEL PINOT NOIR    $25  

-Pago de Tharsys  2009  Dominio de Requena Brut Nature $15.00 Amethyst

-Château des Charmes 2010 Rosé Sparkling Wine, Méthode Traditionnelle $28.95      +78055

-Domaine Deliance NV Brut Reserve Cremant de Bourgogne $23.99 +572163 Mellecey Wine Group Inc. Cyndi Grossman

 

*** MY GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Danzante         Prosecco    $14.95      +288910

-Piera Martellozzo NV Blu Giovello Prosecco     $14.95 +85316 Fruili

-Casal de Gorchs  NV    Fresita Sparkling Wine  $13.95

-Jip Jip Rocks Sparkling Shiraz     $18.60 +212472

-VSA Limoux NV    Grande Cuvee 1531 $19.95      +350371     France

-Trapiche   2012 Extra Brut Sparkling Wine $11.95     +262261 Mendoza

-Casella Yellow Tail Pink Bubbles   $13.95      +229047

-Casella Yellow Tail Bubbles  $13.95      +229039    

-Freixenet  N/V Cordon Negro  $13.95      +216945    

-Freixenet  N/V   Freixenet Cordon Rosado $12.95      +217059    

-Freixenet  N/V   Freixenet Carta Nevada  $11.95      +216887    

-Bodegas Santa Julia    N/V   Santa Julia UNO   $14.95      +237891      Argentina   Mendoza     4x187ml    

-De Bortoli Wines N/V   Emeri Pink Sparkling    $14.95      +222190

-Carpene Malvolti N/V   Carpene Malvolti DOCG Brut    $15.95 +727438

-Santa Margherita NV    Prosecco vi Val   $17.95 Vintages Ess

-Villa Sandi      nv    prosecco    $14.15                  GL         

-Mionetto   NV    Mionetto Mo Prosecco    $16.95      +266023

-Dopff au Moulin  NV    Cuvée Julien Alsace     $18.95      +641365

-Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery  2011  Sparkling and Sassy $27.95 +344622

-M. Weir    2009  Sparkling                                

-Jackson-Triggs Niagara 2009  ENTOURAGE Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc $29.95 +353078

-Jackson-Triggs Niagara 2008  ENTOURAGE Sparkling Merlot    $29.95

-Palatine Niagara             Romeo $22.95 Pinot Noir

-Casa Dea Esatates Winery PEC 2011  Dea's Cuvee $18.95      +261263 

-Casa Dea Esatates Winery PEC 2012  Dea's Rose  $19.95      winery

-ANGELS GATE WINERY 2011      ARCHANGEL SAUVIGNON BLANC $21.95 winery

-ANGELS GATE WINERY 2008      ARCHANGEL SAUVIGNON BLANC $35 winery     

-Cascina Gilli 2012 Malvasia "Gilli" di Casetelnuovo Don Bosco Piemonte

$20 Amethyst

-John Howard Cellars    Megalomaniac 2011 Bubblehead $28.95 +363655

 

The Contact Person: deantudor@deantudor.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 94

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 14, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR  SEPTEMBER 14, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. This time, there were ** 13 red wines and ** 13 white
wines missing. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-
tasting.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Mas d'Auzieres Les Eclats 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc, +271742, $17.95:
smoke and tar like you wouldn't believe, some light brett too. Already
aged for you and ready to go at a decent price, 13.5% ABV. Time to snap
it all up…QPR: 93.
 
======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Lan Gran Reserva 2005 Rioja, +928622, $27.95.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Flat Rock Riesling 2012 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, +43281, $16.95: good
MVC off-dry material, 11% ABV, ripe tones, twist top. QPR: 89.
2. Pfaffenheim Pinot Gris 2011 Alsace, +341883, $14.95: a steal at this
price, loaded with concentrated body much more than you would expect a
pinot gris at under $15. 13.5% ABV, twist top too. QPR: 90.
3. Domaine Raphael Sallet Macon Uchizy 2011, +130450, $15.95: hits all
the right chardonnay notes for an MVC regular burgundy, but with
dynamic price value and a cork finish for under $16. 13% ABV. QPR: 89.
4. Ciu Ciu Merlettaie Pecorino Offida 2011, +245670, $16.95: well, if
this isn't a worthy label – choo choo cha boogie, people waiting under
a building that could be a choo choo train terminal. Good marketing for
North America. Off-dry on the mid-palate, good flavour but a heavy
bottle and an ambiguous label. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Sue-Ann Staff Merlot 2010 VQA Niagara, +358416, $17.95: a "winemaker
of the year" at the Ontario Wine Awards, Sue-Ann has crafted a fruity
yet soft merlot in an Euro style. Needs more time, but ok right now.
QPR: 89.
2. Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2011 Uco Valley Mendoza, +167619, $15.95: a
serious wine at this price level, plumy complexity, long length, and a
big (but not hot) 14.5% ABV resonating on the finish. QPR: 89.
3. RockBare Mojo Shiraz 2011 Barossa Valley, +327767, $18.95: the
winemaker's mojo is working here, involving a good smoky syrah feel to
the shiraz name. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
4. Mount Riley Pinot Noir 2011 Marlborough/Nelson, +60137, $19.95: very
well-made delicious pinot noir, intense burgundian style, twist top,
and 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
5. Chateau La Croix Saint-Pierre 2010 Cotes de Bordeaux, Blaye,
+336875, $15.95: decent price for a typical Bordeaux that displays the
MVC for the region, 14% ABV. Age it a bit. QPR: 89.
6. Clavesana Il Clou Dogliani Superiore 2010 Piedmont, +344747, $16.95:
great Italianate complexity at this price level, 13.5% ABV. As the
Vintages panel says, "spicy leather", "sour cherry", and pepper. QPR:
89.
7. Resta Squinzano Rosso 2009 Puglia, +338996, $15.95: a hot wine, tasty, well-aged and
well-priced for red jam and underbrush. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
8. Celler Lagravera Onra Negre 2009 Costers del Segre, +343079, $16.95:
organic wine, heavily laden with garnacha complexity, enough to make it
the LCBO's "garnacha of the month" wine. QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2011 VQA, +392083, $29.95 retail.
2. Cattail Creek Barrel Fermented Small Lot Chardonnay 2010 VQA Four
Mile Creek, +348987, $24.95.
3. Domaine Bernard Defaix Cote de Lechet Reserve Chablis 1er Cru 2010
Vieilles Vignes, +17541, $33.95.
4. Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2010 VQA Niagara,
+33894, $30.
5. Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Columbia
Valley, +209866, $44.95.
6. Chateau Clauzet 2009 Saint-Estephe, +192047, $29.95.
7. Chateau Preuillac 2009 Medoc, +713925, $32.95.
8. Maison Roche Bellene Savigny-Les-Beaune Vielles Vignes 2010 Unfined,
+344283, $22.95.
9. Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat 2011, +216291, $22.95.
10. Bodegas Vizcarra JC Vizcarra 2010 Ribera del Duero, +214650,
$28.95.

The Event: A Taste of Savour Stratford (media preview)

 The Date and Time: Monday, August 26, 2013 7:30PM to 10PM
The Event: A Taste of Savour Stratford
The Venue: Drake Hotel, Ivy Knight's 86'd at the Drake
The Target Audience: regular customers and media
The Quote/Background: This was a media launch preview of this year's
Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival, September 20 – 22.
Three chefs gave us samples of their food, and there was alcohol as
well.
The Wines: I did not have any alcohol because the service was late. I
understand that Chateau des Charmes had two wines, Mill Street Brewery
had two beers, and Dillon's Distillery had gin and white rye cocktails.
The Food: we had an excellent mozza bar from Pazzo Taverna in Stratford
(burrata, truffle oil, fresh pesto and tomatoes), chalupa de camaron
guanajuato (poached shrimp, plum tomatoes, cilantro, chimichurri in a
cuke cup) from Agave y Aguacate, and bison sinmai (steamed bison and
pork dumplings) from Aphrodite Cooks. All three chefs will be in
Stratford, should it should be a worthwhile experience and I encourage
all readers to attend.
The Downside: it was slated for 7:30, but nothing happened until 8 PM.
Media were not told this. The bar service, restricted to sample
tickets, did not open until 8:30PM (media were not told this), so I had
no chance to compare food with drinks. I could not afford the time to
hang around.
The Contact Person: erin@thesirengroup.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
79.

Monday, September 9, 2013

The Event: Neal Brothers' Summer Picnic

 The Date and Time: Monday, August 19, 2013 8Pm to 10PM
The Event: Neal Brothers' Summer Picnic
The Venue: Drake Hotel, Ivy Knight's 86'd at the Drake
The Target Audience: regular customers and media
The Availability/Catalogue: it was actually a potato chip launch with a
new cocktail. Neal Brothers potato chips should be widely available
through the larger supermarkets, and because of the non-GMO potatoes
used they could also be at health food stores.
The Quote/Background: Earlier in the Spring, the Neal Brothers launched
a line of kettle-cooked potato chips. Here they were launching another
one: Maple Bacon, a truly Canadian chip.
The Food: we had a chance to sample all four styles: the basic Pink
Himalayan Salt (lower sodium), Pink salt & Vinegar, Sweet & smokey BBQ
(addictive, and my fave), and Maple Bacon (strong maple component). In
addition, the Drake had pulled pork sliders with chips and ice cream
sandwiches with chips. The cocktail was the delightful "Bartender's
Breakfast" created by bartender Gord, with smoked paprika, maple and
bacon chip infusion, bourbon, maple syrup, and egg. An eyeopener.
The Downside: I had to leave early, so I could not have the ice cream
sandwich.
The Upside: a chance to sample some award-winning potato crisps!
The Contact Person: erin@thesirengroup.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
86.

Friday, September 6, 2013

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been
around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are
automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant
or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere,
doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network.
Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or
the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in
these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved.
Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or
recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be
related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are
American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients;
sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there
is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite
recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on
"demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of
the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes
to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food
writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books)
don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim
to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food
researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and
advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant
world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity
books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much
self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo
shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other
celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited,
they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 

15. THE FORAGER'S KITCHEN; over 100 easy recipes from savory to sweet
(Cico Books, 2013; distr. T. Allen, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-908862-61-7,
$24.95 US hard covers) is by Fiona Bird, a BBC Masterchef finalist. She
had previously published a collection of recipe cards in 2009 (Kids
Kitchen). Here she eats off the land, working with the seasons in a
largely vegetarian environment. There is much advice on how and when
and where to forage. It's a British book, so it has that kind of
orientation, and they seem to forage more than we would. The 100 preps
here cover the range: flowers and blossoms, woodlands, fruits and
berries, herbs, sea shores. There's a legal section, covering the UK,
US and Canada, with internet resources highlighted. You just cannot
pick things from protected parklands or private property, so be aware
of your rights. Typical dishes here include salted caramel wild
hazelnut shortbread, quince cordial/paste, sweet cicely and rhubarb
sorbet, wild garlic bread, dandelion sauce, asparagus and sea lettuce
salmon, and damson tart tatin. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 

16. NO BAKE MAKERY; more than 80 two-bite treats made with lovin', not
an oven (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013; distr. Hachette, 224 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4555-2513-3, $20 US hard covers) is by Cristina Suarez
Krumsick, chef and owner of the No Bake Makery based in Brooklyn. Visit
nobakemakery.com for more details. She specializes in small two-biters,
nothing from the oven, but fully cooked and ready to roll – also for
shipping around the country. The dishes here include pink velvet
cheesecake, strawberry nutella icebox cake, "sweechies", birds' nests,
key lime pie, and more. It is all arranged by product, such as
truffles, clusters and barks, fudge and bars, mini-pies and cakes,
puddings, and candy and cookies. There are party menus for Valentine's
Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Halloween, Christmas and kids' events. The
last chapter is on breakfasts which can also be turned into desserts
with bite-sized pancakes, crepes and French toast. Well worth a look,
although eventually I was turned off by the coloured inks. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
17. FARM-FRESH RECIPES FROM THE MISSING GOAT FARM (Cico Books, 2013;
distr. T. Allen, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-908862-60-0, $24.95 US hard
covers) is by Heather Cameron, who bought an organic blueberry farm
outside Vancouver, BC renaming it, Missing Goat. She now has her own
line of organic jams which she sells to 50 or so shops, and in her
spare time she is also a food writer. Here are over 100 recipes for a
range including pies, snacks, soups, breads, and preserves. These farm
faves are arranged by season beginning with Spring, and sub-arranged by
time of day (breakfast, snack, main, dessert). As such it is also part
memoir. She details the trials and tribulations of a newbie running a
farm, emphasizing the field to table aspect. It is an all-occasion
book, with such recipes as baked beans with salsa, blueberry pie,
salmon with blueberry chutney, chicken kale soup, zucchini cakes with
apple sauce, mini jam pies, perogies, chicken and veggie wrap with
quinoa, and gingerbread cookies. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 

18. A PERFECT DAY FOR A PICNIC (Ryland Peters & Small, 2013, 144 pages,
ISBN 978-1-84975-353-1, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Tori Finch, once a
UK restaurant owner but now a full-time food and lifestyle writer. I
can tell when summer is upon us: that's when the cookbook mailbox is
full of picnic and BBQ books. This is one of the first of the season,
and it is a fine one with over 80 family recipes. She has 10 themed
picnic ideas, each complete with recipes for portable savoury and sweet
dishes as well as beverage recommendations. Ideas are included for the
themes, but they can easily be disregarded if all you are interested in
is the food. I find it hard enough as it is to clean up after a picnic
(nobody wants to do it) let alone do decorations which need their own
special cleanup. Nevertheless, if you have a dedicated family/friends
connections, then you may invited them to participate in striking the
set a la Tom Sawyer. Themes here include a vintage garden party, a bike
ride picnic, a Teddy Bears' picnic with the wee ones, a beach BBQ, a
Provencal picnic, a woodland walk picnic, and more. The Indochine
picnic covers Vietnamese summer rolls, wheatberries and soy salad,
lemongrass chicken brochettes, sweet chili noodles, caramelized pork
ban mi baguettes, fruit salad with fresh coconut, mango syllabub and a
watermelon cooler. Invite me, please. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating:  88.
 

19. MY BEEF WITH MEAT; the healthiest argument for eating a plant-
strong diet (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013, 280 pages, ISBN 978-1-
4555-0936-2, $25 US hard covers) is by Rip Esselstyn, a professional
triathlete-now-firefighter who has developed the Engine 2 diet. He has
appeared on hundreds of US radio and TV shows, and also works with
Whole Foods Market. In 2005, he persuaded his entire firehouse to
convert to a plant-based diet. He created "The Engine 2 Diet" and has
now produced another book, a sort-of sequel, with 140 new recipes. Plus
36 dramatic reasons to switch to a plant-based diet. Most of the
recipes have been contributed by friends and family. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. All courses are covered, and most food is
quick and easy (pasta, tacos, burritos, pizzas, flatbreads "burgers",
dressings, spreads). Typical are spicy spinach and black bean burgers,
lentil balls, eggplant fries, polenta strips. There is a definite guy
feel to the food, which is not a bad thing if you want to convince a
guy to switch to plant-based foods. Quality/price rating: 86.
 

20. HALIFAX TASTES; recipes from the region's best restaurants (Nimbus
Publishing, 2013, 74 pages, ISBN 978-1-77108-006-4, $22.95 paper
covers) has been compiled by Liz Feltham, a restaurant critic in the
region and cookbook author. It is the newest book in the "Tastes"
series from Nimbus. Feltham has chosen 25 restaurants from Halifax and
Dartmouth, for 8 appetizers, 13 mains, and 4 desserts, including one of
my faves, The Five Fishermen (blackened haddock). There is a directory
and a map. The eating establishments have been well-chosen, reflective
of seafood, Asiatic and Mediterranean influences. Many local and fresh
ingredients are to be found at the farmer's market, and are reflected
at the restaurants. As with any book of this sort, there are lots of
pix of the plates and surroundings, by Scott Munn. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 

21. SEAFOOD; spectacular recipes for every season (Skyhorse Publishing,
2013; distr. T. Allen, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-62087-733-3, $29.95 US
hard covers) is by Par-Anders Bergqvist and Anders Engvall, who run
Hav, a fish shop and catering service in Stockholm. Previously, they
had chefed around Sweden. The book was originally published in Sweden
last year as "Hav". There are about 52 preps here, one for every week
of the year. Thus, it is a seasonal approach., with drink suggestions
(although specific brand names may be hard to find). The choices are
mainly white wines, but there are also beers and sherries to enjoy with
seafood. Typical preps include smoked perch with pickled veggies, oven-
baked cod, grilled halibut, brandade with peperonata and roasted
garlic, and fried salmon with apple. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and (mostly) avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. While the
book is lavish in its photography, the recipes sit on top of the
pictures, in either white or black print. This is distracting, and
after awhile annoying. It is virtually impossible to photocopy and
recipes – I photocopy so I can work on the dish without destroying the
book with my spills. Quality/price rating: 80.
 

22. THE BIG BOOK OF DESSERTS AND PASTRIES; dozens of recipes for
gourmet sweets and sauces (Skyhorse Publishing, 2013; distr. T. Allen,
157 pages, ISBN 978-1-62087-050-1, $19.95 US hard covers) is by Claes
Karlsson, pastry chef and cookbook author. Previously, he was head
pastry chef at Stockholm's The Grand Hotel. His book was originally
published in Sweden in 2011, and this is its first appearance in the
North American market. It is an all-purpose affordable dessert book,
with about 70 recipes and techniques for a variety of sweets including
candy and accompaniments. There are peppermint sprinkles, almond and
fig tart, vanilla cake with lemon curd, panna cottas, mousses,
cheesecakes, and the like. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. Superb photography. Quality/price rating: 85,
 
 
 
23. SMOKE; new firewood cooking (Rizzoli, 2013, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-
8478-3979-7, $40 US hard covers) is by Tim Byres, chef-owner of Smoke
and of Chicken Scratch in Dallas. He's been named a couple of times as
best new chef in 2011 and 2012. This book, with log rolling by the Lee
Brothers, Stephen Pyles, and Steven Raichlen, covers just about all you
would need to know about building flavour with fire on the grill and in
the kitchen. It is based on wood fires, which can be successfully
employed in hot smoking, cold smoking, and campfires. Byres advocates
using wood chips on the stovetop, grilling with wood planks, and (for
serious cooks) how to build a fire pit and smokehouse and spit roasters
at home. Then, there are preps for pulling together relishes and salsa
made with smoked veggies, and using smoke-cured meats to add flavours
to plates. There's a primer on larders, rubs, jams and pickles. The
main section tackles the flesh and veggies, sweets and breads, and some
drinks. Typical preps include pork jowl bacon with half sour cucumbers,
gumbo, smoked cabrito meatpies, coffee-cured brisket, turnip greens
salad, and oxtail marmalade. As the book says, everything is made from
scratch. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 

24. LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN COOKBOOK; delicious recipes from Le Pain
Quotidien (Mitchell Beazley, 2013, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-84533-748-3,
$29.99 US hard covers) is by Alain Coumont and Jean-Pierre Gabriel.
Coumont is the founder and chief bread maker for the Belgian bakery-
restaurant. A lot of the book is about bread making, but there are also
sections dealing with breakfasts, soups, salads, tartines, desserts,
and so forth – over 100 preps. The key, of course, is the sourdough
starter that is given here. You use it in the world famous five-grain
fruit bread and the nut & raisin flutes. There are also some seeded
rolls and fougasse. The tartines chapter is one of the best. As he
does, just use slices. Or, as some restaurants do, just use flatbreads.
They are both platforms for the inventive toppings (fruit, cheese,
nuts, veggies, herbs). Preparations have their ingredients listed in
both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 90.
 

Thursday, September 5, 2013

Meeting and Tasting with Emiliana organic winery (Chile) Aug 7

The Date and Time: Wednesday, August 7, 2013 6Pm to 9PM
The Event: a meeting and tasting with Emilio Contreras, winemaker for
Emiliana organic vineyards.
The Venue: The Loft at the Distillery
The Target Audience: wine media and trade
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines were available through the LCBO
The Quote/Background: Emilio took us on a powerpoint tour of the
vineyards. The company began converting a Chilean winery to organic
just before this century. Emiliana has a total of 997 hectares in
Casablanca, Maipo, Cachapoal, Colchagua, and Bio-Bio Valleys. 923 have
been certified organic (and 819 of these are Demeter biodynamic
certified). The other 74 are in transition. Like most Chilean wineries,
they have at least four tiers of wines – all organic. The upper tier
(Ge and Coyam) are also biodynamic. The Adobe Reserva is entry level at
about $13 or so, followed by the Novas Gran Reserva ($16) and the
Signos de Origen ($20).
The Wines: we tried seven wines, each paired with food
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Emiliana Coyam 2010, $29.95 [syrah, carmenere, merlot]
-Emiliana Signos de Origen Syrah 2011, $19.95 – fave of the eve
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Emiliana Signos de Origen Pinot Noir 2011, $19.95
-Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Petit Verdot 2011, $15.95
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Cabernet Merlot 2011, $15.95
-Emiliana Adobe Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $12.95
-Emiliana Adobe Reserva Merlot 2011, $13.95
The Food: there was a remarkable procession with a table and platters
for the interesting and complementary food. With the Sauvignon Blanc,
we had tea-cured salmon lox, with the Merlot there were some Ontario
and Quebec cheeses with dried fruit, the Cabernet Merlot was showed off
against braised short rib ragout with sweet potato gnocchi and blue
cheese, and the Petit Verdot went well with the pork tenderloin
tournedos and double smoked bacon. Next, came the duck rilettes with
the Pinot Noir, the Moroccan spiced lamb with the Syrah, and finally –
peppered duck breast and currant risotto with the Coyam.
The Downside: one of my faves (Signos de Origen
Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne/Rousanne) was not available for tasting.
The Upside: the weather was hot, and it was not too crowded.
The Contact Person: erika@ybimc.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
87.

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Lazio Delicatessen tasting, July 31/13

The Date and Time: Wednesday, July 31, 2013   3 Pm to 6PM

The Event: Lazio Delicatessen

The Venue: Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario

The Target Audience: food and wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: there was a fat book (The Export Basket) describing the products from the Lazio region in Italy.

The Quote/Background: There were organic products, preserves, jams, pasta, baked goods, olive oils, ready-made foods, and wines from Lazio.

The Wines: I was there for the wines --

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Terre dei Rutuli Tyrrhenum IGT Lazio Bianco 2012 [malvasia puntinata, bombino] – deliciously fruity.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Papalino Farm Calus Red Lazio IGT 2012, 5.90 Euros FOB [sangiovese, montepulciano]

-Terre dei Rutuli Rutulus IGT Lazio Rosso 2012 [merlot and cabernet sauvignon]

-Pietra Pinta Estate Costa Vecchia IGT Lazio Rosso 2010 [nero buono, montepulciano, petit verdot, merlot]

 

The Food: as displayed. I had a sample of Sabina Trading Donum Dei Extra Virgin Olive Oil, from three cultivars. It was deliciously fruity and peppery.

The Downside: the venue was a little crowded, but everybody seemed to know each other.

The Upside: it was a walk around affair.

The Contact Person: tinelli@italchambers.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

 

Sunday, September 1, 2013

APVSA Tasting in Toronto, July 8/13

The Date and Time: Monday, July 8, 2013  11AM to 4PM

The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des

vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Eaton Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary, Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show will have wines from Canada, Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia. Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available.

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB cost which must be requested due to competitive pricing. I did not try every wine, even though there was a pourer assistant this time. Also, it had been two months since I was last at an APVSA tasting (due to my conflicting schedules).

 

The Wines: Prices are FOB. I did not taste every product.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau Gensac Cuvee Terre a Terre 2007, 6.20E

-Bodega Raffy Malbec Grand Reserve 2010 Tupungato Argentina, $14.96US FOB

-Champagne De Sousa Brut Reserve Grand Cru [organic] 2009 bottling, all chardonnay.

-Champagne Liebart-Regnier Brut Blanc de Blanc, 11E

-Champagne Liebart-Regnier Excelia Brut Blanc de Blanc 2007, 14E

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price

Rating terms):

-Chateau Gensac Cuvee Pas de Deux Rouge 2011, 4.50E

-Bodega Raffy Malbec Reserve 2011 Tupungato Argentina, $8.48US FOB

-Champagne Liebart-Regnier Chardonnay Brut, 12.10E

-Champagne Liebart-Regnier Rose Brut, 12.10E

-Vignoble des Vendeignes Sauvignon Blanc Touraine 2012, 2.90E

-Chat. Cassemichere Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie 2011, 2.90E

-Vigneron du Mont Ventoux Grange des Dames Ventoux Blanc 2012, 2.42E

-Vigneron du Mont Ventoux Gigantis Ventoux 2010, 7.65E

-Chateau de Bertin 2009 Bordeaux, 2.60E

-Dom. De la Denante St Veran 2012, 5.20E

-Dom. Carrette "Les Crays" Pouilly Fuisse 2011

-Dom. Denis Pere et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2011 Blanc, 33.50E

-Dom. Denis Pere et Fils Chardonnay Bourgogne 2011, 5.95E

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Bodega Raffy Malbec Terroir 2011 Tupungato Argentina, $4.98US FOB

-Vigneron du Mont Ventoux Grange des Dames Ventoux Rouge 2011, 2.32E

-Vigneron du Mont Ventoux Grange des Dames Ventoux Rose 2012, 2.42E

-Chateau de Bertin 2011 Entre-deux-Mers, 2.60E

-Chateau la Caderie Esprit 2010 Blanc [organic], 3.42E

-Chateau la Caderie 2012 Rouge [organic], 3.52E

-Dom. De la Denante Macon Village 2012 Blanc, 4.60E

-Dom. Carrette Macon Milly Lamartine 2012

-Dom. Carrette Pouilly Fuisse 2012

-Dom. Denis Pere et Fils Savigny-les-Beaunes 2011, 8.35E

 

The Food: great hot pizzas, which went well with the wines, as always.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):

85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 31, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 31, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
THE "BLUE MOON" RELEASE!!
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Rivera Cappellaccio Riserva Aglianico 2006 Castel del Monte Puglia: top
notch aglianico at a fantastic price, still needs time. Depth and
character and age. Dark fruit tones all the way. 13.5% ABV. +305276,
$17.95, QPR: 90.
 
======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Zind Humbrecht Turkheim Riesling 2010 Alsace, +31039, $26.95.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calamus Riesling 2011 VQA Vinemount Ridge Niagara: detailed riesling
as it should be, MVC flavours, twist top, 12% ABV. +158642, $16.95,
QPR: 89.
2. Creekside Laura's White 2011 VQA Niagara: quality blend of six
grapes (two kinds of chardonnays, savvy, grigio, gewurzt, and
viognier), 12% ABV, twist top. +121764, $18.95, QPR: 89.
3. Domaine de L'Echelette Macon Cruzille 2010: lightly and politely
close to burgundian character at an affordable price, 12.5% ABV,
excellent finish. +336982, $16.95, QPR: 89.
4. Finca La Emperatriz Viura 2011 Rioja Alta: slight fruity finish,
off-dry, patio sipper or first course wine with a spicy app. +342766,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
5. Moncigale Mineral Rose Bandol 2012: possibly the finest rose I've
tasted this season. Colour checks out, taste and finish are evocative
of the garrigue and citrus-berries, 13.5% ABV. +226670, $18.85, QPR:
89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. 13th Street Red Palette 2011 VQA Niagara: interesting and affordable
red blend, patio and first course dishes. Low chocolate character.
12.5% ABV. +249458, $15.95, QPR: 89.
2. Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2011 Marlborough: intense burgundian style
character and taste on nose and mid-palate. 13.5% ABV, twist top.
+590414, $17, QPR: 89.
3. Chateau Hyot 2010 Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon: ripe and ready, gold
medalist, 13.5% ABV. Delicious at this price. +63537, $16.95, QPR: 89.
4. Domaine Le Grand Retour Plan de Dieu 2011 Cotes du Rhone-Villages:
tasty but basic hot Rhone, affordable price, 15% ABV (but a soft
finish). Gold Medalist. +224592, $13.95, QPR: 89.
5. Casetta Rivere Nebbiolo d'Alba 2007: well-aged, complex enough to
pass off as a Barbaresco, 13%, keep another year. +344085, $19.95, QPR:
89.
6. Palazzo Maffei Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2010: the LCBO Ripasso
of the Month, 14.5% ABV. +338913, $17.95, QPR: 89.
7. Quinta do Quetzal Guadalupe Red 2010 Vinho Regional Alentejano: off-
dry mouth feel, black fruit from t5hree grapes (trincadeira, aragonez,
alfocheito). First course red or patio sipper. +336313, $13.95, QP: 89.
8. Barco de Piedra Tinto 2011 Ribera del Duero: quality Ribera at a low
price is difficult to find, but this is one of them. 13.5% ABV,
delicious combo of French and US used oak. +336289, $17, QPR: 89.
9. Bodegas del Abad Dom Bueno Mencia 2008 Bierzo: more good wine from
an up and coming region in Spain – good depth, French and US oak,
nicely aged, value priced, 13.5% ABV. +291989, $15.95, QPR: 89.
10. Breca Old Vines Garnacha 2010 Calatayud: the LCBO Garnacha of the
Month, going head to head with the Ripasso (above). +329086, $19.95,
QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Cave Spring CSV Riesling 2009 VQA Beamsville Bench, +566026, $29.95
retail.
2. Luis Canas Reserva 2005 Rioja, +334094, $22.95.
3. Champy Pernand-Vergelesses en Caradeux 1er Cru 2010, +344143,
$49.95.
4. Jean-Marc Brocard Sainte Claire Vieilles Vignes Chablis 2011,
+329995, $24.95.
5. Marnier-Lapostolle Chateau de Sancerre 2011, +340893, $23.95.
6. Henry of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Short Hills Bench
Niagara, +268391, $24.95.
7. Terra Rossa Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2009, +344127, $20.95.
8. Farina Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009, +995910, $35.95.
 

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

City Bites wrap party, July 13/13

 The Date and Time: Saturday, July 13, 2013  2Pm to 6PM

The Event: Latest City Bites issue wrap party.

The Venue: Cool City Oyster, 99 Sudbury St.

The Target Audience: writers and publicists, some wine-food trade people.

The Availability/Catalogue: the wines I tasted were all available, but as is common with events like this, there was not much info about prices and availability.

The Quote/Background: Montreal sommelier Elyse Lambert was in town to do a quick seminar on Vinho Verde. She poured three wines.

The Wines: There were also Mill Street Organic beer in bottles and Muskoka Weisse on draught.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Deu La Deu Vinho Verde Alvarinho 13%, $19.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Dan Aykroyd Sauvignon Blanc VQA, $12.95

-Vineland Dry Riesling 2011 VQA, $13.95

-Vinho Verde Trevo Branco 10.5%, $13.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-EastDell Unoaked Chardonnay VQA

-Fresh Rose VQA

-Muralhas Vinho Verde Rose 11.5%, $12.95

 

The Food: Chef Michael Pataran sent out some poached sardines, salmon cherry miso, and Irish salmon tartare with smoked lemon salt. Plus a variety of oysters, principally Fanny Bay (BC) and Shigoku (Washington State).

The Downside: It was roasting on the patio, which is where the entire venue of the restaurant is located.

The Upside: a chance to re-connect with some lovely people and some great oysters.

The Contact Person: natalie@citybites.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88

Monday, August 26, 2013

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

++ Emiliana Organic Adobe Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Chile, +266049, $12.95 LCBO: from Casablanca Valley, the hot cool region of Chile, all done up in stainless, exhibiting kiwi strength grassiness and grapefruit. Best with first course or seafood. Organic, screw cap, 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Emiliana Organic Adobe Reserve Merlot 2011 Chile, +322024, $12.95 LCBO: from Rapel Valley, organic fruit that is 85% merlot/15% syrah. 20% of it is all done up in French oak for six months. Lots of red fruit, with a long wood finish. Food suggestion is for cheeses, nuts and dried fruit – on the patio? Screw cap, 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

++ Chateau des Charmes Earth & Sky Riesling 2011 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, +343350, $14.95 LCBO: a new line from Chateau des Charmes, emphasizing a light and breezy style in the MVC tradition. This Riesling tastes like it should taste: citric tones with a minerality on the finish which they describe as laser sharp. 12.5% ABV. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Chateau des Charmes Earth & Sky Pinot Noir 2012 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, +343368, $15.95 LCBO: continuing the light and breezy style, this not-yet-ready pinot emphasizes red fruit and underbrush. It does need time. 13% ABV. Cork finish. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

++ Boutari Naoussa 2008 Greece, +23218, $12.95 Vintages: with some aging, this xinomavro wine has become great value for the price. Aged in older French oak barrels. Fruity, and has been compared to Barbaresco/nebbiolo wines. After five years, the tannins have resolved to a warm lingering and soft finish. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Colio Girls Night Out Chardonnay 2012 VQA Ontario, +54105, $19.95 magnum: a good value wine for Ontario chardonnay (100%), stainless steel tanks, 12.8% ABV. Regular bottle (half the size) is $7 less. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Colio Girls Night Out Rose 2012 VQA Ontario, +54305, $19.95 magnum: reputed to be the top selling VQA rose in Ontario – 50% chardonnay, 20% riesling, 20% pinot gris, 10% cab franc. Think watermelons. 12% ABV. Regular bottle (half the size) is $7 less. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.