Languedoc Wines tasted Sept 23 at Parts & Labour

The Date and Time: Monday, September 23, 2013  11AM to 3 PM

The Event: Presentation on Languedoc wines and tasting, with food pairing.

The Venue: Parts & Labour, Queen West

The Target Audience: sommeliers and select media.

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are from Ontario agents of the LCBO, although two (as noted below) were from the SAQ.

The Quote/Background: Matthew Stubbs, MW, who lives in Languedoc, led the seminar presentation and answered questions. We did not do Roussillon, just the Languedoc appellations. The terroir is very dry, windy, and with lots of sunshine. There are 236,000 Ha of vineyards, down from over 400,000 a quarter of a century ago. There are 30,000 winegrowers, 2500 private domains, and 300 co-ops. The AOP wines represent about 22% of the total, with IGP being 64% and the balance Vins de Pays. In 1990, 29 million Hl of wine was made; in 2010, that number was down to 11 million Hl. But the quality, of course, has risen since most of the pulled up vines were minor varieties not capable of more than plain wine.

The Wines: We had 13 wines, including one sparkler. There was one sweet wine.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Mas de l'Oncle AOP Languedoc Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Emy Rose 2012, $23.95 Private Order Living Vine

-Lorgeril Chateau de Pennautier AOP Cabardes Terroirs d'Altitude 2009, $16.95 Vintages

-Mas Belles Eaux AOP Languedoc Les Coteaux 2008, $27.95 Private Order Lifford

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Roque Sestiere AOP Corbieres Carte Noire White 2011, $18 Private Order Vinifera

-Chateau Prieure Borde Rouge AOP Corbieres Rubellis 2011, $16 Private Order Small Winemakers

-Gerard Bertrand AOP Minervois 2010, $17.95 Vintages

-Chateau Maris AOP Minervois La Liviniere Les Combes 2009, $22.95 Vintages

-Clos Bagatelle AOP Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois 2010, 500 mL $18.25 SAQ.

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Antech Cremant de Limoux AOP Cuvee Expression 2010, $20 SAQ

-Domaine des Lauriers AOP Picpoul de Pinet Prestige 2011, $13.95 Vintages

-Chateau de Gourgazaud AOP Minervois 2011, $12.95 LCBO

-Clos Bagatelle AOP Saint-Chinians Cuvee Tradition 2011, $16.50 Private Order Vinifera

-Domaine le Clos du Serres AOP Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac La Blaca 2011, $24.95 Vintages

 

The Food: we had eight courses, which included a cheesecake for which one wine here was appropriate. The food was served course by course, and each represented at least 40% of a main dish equivalent – there was a lot of food. We went up to get our own wines, as appropriate. I tried only a few as most of the wines were food friendly anyway. There was an excellent raw scallop, and excellent roasted mackerel (sardine size) with grilled red cabbage, whopping duck breast slices with celery root, chicken breast with Brussels sprouts and potatoes, quail breast with chanterelle and kale, pork shoulder with corn, and then hanger steak (mine was tough).

The Downside: not many questions were asked, which was surprising.

The Upside: a chance to taste those Languedoc wines in the Ontario market.

The Contact Person: marion.roy@sopexa.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

++ Chateau des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2009 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake,

$25.95 for 200 mL, +565861 Vintages: a compact icewine with apricot as the defining aroma and flavour, followed by honey tones. Ready now, but can be aged (but then it will taste different and, in my opinion,

taste better). 9.5% ABV. Perfect for gifting (comes in a handsome box). Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2011 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $13.95, +81653 LCBO: a consistent wine year in and year out, my fave chardonnay at this price level. Smokey, minerals, underbrush, apples and lemons. Long finish. Cork closure, 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Vinedos Marchigue Panul Chardonnay 2012 Central Valley Chile, $11.85, +325480 LCBO: from one of the single largest vineyard owners in Chile (2600 hectares), based on organic and/or sustainable farming. Fresh tropicality, some bananas and refreshing acidity. First course wine. 13% ABV and twist top. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2012 Puklus Cellars Hungary, $15.95, +46508 Vintages: Yellow Muscat is related to Muscat Blanc. Made from older vines, done up in Late Harvest style, with that peachy complexity, medium-bodied, but with lemons and pineapple acidity on the longer finish. Floral aromatics. 12% ABV, a bit less this year. Serve with later courses (fruity mains, salads, cheeses, off-dry desserts). Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina, $12.95, +218842 LCBO: expect a wallop of juiciness and berry jam, very upfront with some oak tones such as vanilla. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Rutini Cruz Alta Mendoza Chairman's Blend 2011, $18.95 The Case for Wine: a nifty blend of 85% malbec, 10% cabernet sauvignon, and 5% syrah, aged 14 months in new French oak (85%) and new US oak (15%). Many mocha tones reverberate, as well as vanilla, needs time to soften or do a double decant. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Rutini Cruz Alta Mendoza Grand Reserve Malbec 2011, $15.95 The Case for Wine: high altitude fruit makes for ripe, rich and tannic taste textures. Cherry-berry and plums dominate. You will need a double decant here, but it is worth it. 13.5% Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

++ Rutini Cruz Alta Mendoza Grand Reserve Chardonnay Old Vines 2012, $15.95 The Case for Wine: 7 months in 50% new French oak gives this wine a certain Burgundian elegance, opens with fruit and with vanilla and butter on the mid-palate and some toast on the finish along with citric tones. Very elegant. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH!

 BAKELESS SWEETS; pudding, panna cotta, fluff, icebox cake, and more
no-bake desserts (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2013, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-
61769-014-3, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Faith Durand, executive
editor of a food website, www.thekitchn.com. There's some log rolling
from Jeni Britton Bauer and David Lebowitz. With no baking, there's a
higher percentage of gluten-free preps here, such as Thai sticky rice
with mango and sesame seeds, and sour cream panna cotta with clementine
curd. The 125 preps are arranged by theme: stirred puddings and
custards, panna cotta, fruit jellies, pies and trifles, cookies, rice
and tapioca, blender puddings and mousses, whipped cream desserts and
fluffs. No-baking also means no heat in the summer and no waiting
around time – everything here is quick and easy, suitable for dinner
parties or young kids. She concludes with a sources list for
ingredients, equipment and further readings (including online). The
index has two special areas: an index to sidebars and notes (rarely
seen in any cookbook), and an index to toppings and sauces.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners, time-pushed cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: strawberry-rhubarb fool,
lemonade jelly with basil, deepest chocolate mousse, creamy lemon-
coconut quinoa pudding, pistachio and vermicelli pudding (payasam).
The downside to this book: nothing really.
The upside to this book: separate indexes.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

All day in Niagara, with Jackson-Triggs, Inniskillin, and Le Clos Jordanne, Sept 19/13

The Date and Time: Thursday, September 19, 2013  7AM to 7PM

The Event: an all-day FAM trip to the Great Estates of Niagara – Jackson-Triggs, Inniskillin, and Le Clos Jordanne.

The Venue: Niagara Peninsula

The Target Audience: selected wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the LCBO or, in some cases, through the winery and/or Wine Rack.

The Quote/Background: We were picked up by limo and went to a gathering point for a bus trip to Niagara. There were about 16 media, plus personnel from Narrative PR and the wineries. First stop was Montague Vineyard (Inniskillin) for a chardonnay tasting with winemaker Bruce Nicholson and  Gerald Klose (director of Ontario viticulture for Constellation). There was a discussion on the current grapes and harvest, and a wine refractometer display to check out the Brix levels in the grapes. Did you know that the refractometer was made in the UK? One of the few remaining items NOT made in China…Then, on to a look at pinot gris vineyards at the site before boarding the bus for the Brae Burn Vineyard (onsite at Inniskillin). Here we had a viognier grape and wine tasting in the field with Bruce and Gerald, followed by an oyster sampling with Estate Chef David Penny. We then walked to the scale house at Inniskillin and met with Errol, a third-party government inspector who tested Brix levels and reconciled volume with sugars, to meet VQA standards. Our group sample came in at 20 brix. At this time, we saw a $700 probe that hauled up liquid grape samples for government inspections right after harvesting. In the Inniskillin Barrel Cellar we continued with a structured tasting of pinot gris and icewine with Bruce Nicholson. After that, we left for Delaine Vineyard where we had another grape and wine tasting, this time of Fume Blanc and Syrah with JT winemaker Marco Piccoli and Gerald Klose. The Syrah was vibrant. Then we arrived at the Jackson-Triggs Winery for lunch at the amphitheatre stage (see below). We then boarded the bus to Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard and had an outdoor pinot noir grape and wine tasting (picnic tables) with its winemaker, Sebastien Jacquery who explained the philosophy and the grapes and the wines. Then, sadly, it was back to Toronto by bus.

The Wines: We also had samples of Cabernet Franc Icewine 2012 ($99.95 half) and Sparkling Cabernet Franc Icewine 2012 ($120 half), both fine wines. 24 wines in all --

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Le Clos Jordanne Grand Clos Pinot Noir 2011, $70

-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2011, $40

-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Methode Classic Brut 2009, $22.95

-Inniskillin Reserve Pinot Gris 2012, $19.95

-Inniskillin Legacy Pinot Gris 2009, $34.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011, $40

-Le Clos Jordanne Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011, $40

-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Methode Classic Brut Sauvignon Blanc 2010, $29.95

-Inniskillin Chardonnay 2012 Montague Vineyard, NYR at Vintages, $24.95

-Inniskillin Discovery P3 [pinot noir/grigio/blanc], $19.95

-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $19.95

-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve White Meritage 2012, $24.95

-Delaine by Jackson-Triggs Syrah 2011, $34.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Methode Classic Brut Merlot 2009, $29.95

-Inniskillin Reserve Viognier 2012, $18.95

-Inniskillin Pinot Grigio 2012, $14.95

-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Gewurztraminer 2012, $19.95

-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $19.95

-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Shiraz 2012, $24.95

-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Red Meritage 2012, $24.95

-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Merlot 2012, $24.95

-Delaine by Jackson-Triggs Fume Blanc 2012, $24.95

 

The Food: we had Malpeque oysters at Inniskillin, along with an Upper Canada cheese and charcuterie sampling, followed by a lunch on the Jackson-Triggs amphitheatre stage. It was a casual rustic community luncheon with platters of estate cured and smoked ham, cold poached prawns, fresh tomatoes, estate ricotta, estate pickles, pate and terrine – all orchestrated by Estate Chef Tim Mackiddie. Just what we needed with the heat! The six JT Grand Reserves were discussed and served ad hoc, as we wanted, with the food...I had mine separately for tasting.

The Downside: I had to get up really early and go without coffee for awhile.

The Upside: we also had a selection of beers on the bus, from Oast House in Niagara, which included their Farmhouse Ales collection such as Saison, and earthy beer emphasizing banana and black pepper flavours.

The Contact Person: kate.makinson@narrative.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 94.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 28, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 28, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Cave de Beblenheim Heimberger Gewurztraminer 2011 Alsace, +196642,
$19.95: excellent value for a Vieilles Vignes wines (over 30 years
old), delicious concentrated gewurz flavours, 13% ABV. QPR: 91.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2009 New Zealand, +167072, $41.95

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara, +89029, $17.95:
nice crisp detail of apples, minerals, apricots, good balance. QPR: 89.
2. Vintage Ink Rite of Passage Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara, +245712,
$16.95: pretty good knockoff of west coast style, soft, fruity, light
oaking, 13.5% ABV. QP: 89.
3. Matetic Corralillo Sauvignon Blanc 2012 San Antonio Chile: the four
gees of gooseberries-grass-grapefruit-green, but affordable, 13.5% ABV,
twist top. QPR: 89.
4. Domaine Le Verger Chablis 2011, +181289, $19.95: nose shows some
chalkiness, but very tasty, long length. Good value. First course wine,
not patio sipper. QPR: 89
5. Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling 2012 Pfalz, +568634, $13.95: good
price for an MVC very Germanic riesling at this level, 11.5%. More off-
dry than medium as indicated in the catalogue, acidic balance. QPR: 89.
6. Paco & Lola Albarino 2011 Rias Baixas, +350041, $17.95: peaches,
green fruit, dry finish, first course. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Juana de Sol Reserva Malbec 2010 Single Vineyard Mendoza, +288381,
$15.95: value-priced, 14% ABV, plumy, vanilla, strawberries. QPR: 89.
2. Sister's Run Cow's Corner Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2011 Barossa,
+346510, $15.95: a pretty good GSM blend (85% Grenache, 10 Shiraz, 5
Mataro), berries and earth, 14.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.
3, Momo Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010, +163972, $19.95: one of the nicest
inexpensive kiwi pinots in quite some time, delivers PN tones, full-
flavours, French oak, some stuffing. 14% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.
4. Guardian Peak Frontier Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2011 WO
Western Cape, +337543, $15.95: jammy and savoury, 14.5%, twist top,
patio or food. QPR: 89.
5. Chateau Les Hauts de Palette 2010 Cotes de Bordeaux, +297267,
$18.95: oak treatment, 13% ABV, fruity and expressive of Bordeaux with
added vanilla tones, still needs some time. QPR: 89.
6. L. Sourdon Domaine des Lauribert Tradition Cotes du Rhone 2011,
+343442, $15.95: very fruity with plenty of garrigue, traditional
style, black fruit, 14% ABV.
7. Dom. Lafage Tessellae Vieilles Vignes Carignan 2011 IGP Cotes
Catalanes, +343509, $16.95: from the Pyrenees and sea, flavours of
underbrush and mushroom, berries, good price. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
8. Capezzana Barco Reale de Carmignano 2010, +508531, $16.95: this
Tuscan steal has expressive cherries, earth, traditional leather,
spices. QPR: 89.
9. Piccini Sasso al Poggio 2007 IGT Toscana, +134809, $19.95: a
supertuscan blend with 40% Bordeaux varieties. A bit tart, red berries,
some savouriness, 14% ABV. But needs time, appropriate to its heavy-
heavy bottle. QPR: 89.
10. Beronia Elaboracion Especial Tempranillo 2010 Rioja, +723643,
$17.95: a stunning example of new style Rioja, all Tempranillo, coconut
and wood as typical, but plush and lush, 14% ABV. QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 2008
Mosel, +282343, $20.95 retail.
2. Domaine Chanson Beaune Teurons 1er Cru 2010, +84426, $51.95
3. Chateau Maris Las Combes Minervois Cru La Liviniere 2009, +341958,
$25.95
4. Carpineto Farnito Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 IGT Toscana, +996553,
$29.95.
5. Palazzo Vechio Vin Nobile di Montepulciano 2007, +348532, $23.95.
6. San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, +716266, $26.95.
7. Ramon Bilbao Tempranillo Gran Reserva 2004 Rioja, +244715, $27.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Trialto's Top Drops, Wed Sept 18/13

The Date and Time: Wednesday, September 18, 2013  1PM to 3PM

The Event: Top Drops from Trialto, a presentation of fine wines available this fall through the LCBO.

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve

The Target Audience: wine trade, clients, and select media.

The Availability/Catalogue: Classics Catalogue and Vintages Front Line.

The Quote/Background: It was a drop-in, walk-around tasting, to be held weekly on Wednesdays.

The Wines: the wines were being released at different times, as indicated.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Casa Brancaia Toscana Il Blu IGT Toscana 2009, +303107, $76.95 Nov 23

-Casa Brancaia Ilatraia IGT Rosso Marmemma 2010, +685230, $62.95 Dec 16

-Marchesi Mazzei Siepi Toscana IGT 2008, +740019, $89.95 Nov 18

-Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo 2006, +283499, $65.95  Jan 20/14

 

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Podere Orma IGT Toscana 2009, +260984, $57.95 Now

-Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno IGT Toscana 2010, +735597, $71.95 Oct 12

-Azelia Barolo 2009, +291963, $40.95 Dec 7

-Azelia San Rocco Barolo 2008, +268839, $77.95 Now

-La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +353607, $67.95 Oct 21

 

The Food: bread, water

The Contact Person: marc@finewinereserve.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Discovering Aquitaine & Bordeaux wines - seminar and luncheon at TOCA

The Date and Time: Tuesday, Sept 3, 2013  11 AM to 2:30 PM

The Event: Discovering Aquitaine & Bordeaux wines – seminar and luncheon.

The Venue: TOCA, Ritz Carlton

The Target Audience: agents, winery reps, LCBO, and wine media.

The Availability/Catalogue: there were five wineries/owners at the seminar, but one was already repped here in Ontario by Edwards.

The Quote/Background: there were 28 or so people at the seminar which was ably presented by Anne Popoff who wisely concentrated on the mechanics of the region and the wineries. She said that 60% of Bordeaux still stays in France, the rest is exported (primarily the higher end wines). We tasted through 26 wines of the 2008-12 vintages. Ubifrance, the French Embassy Trade Office in North America, was the organizer.

The Wines: I've added FOB where known to me.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau de Lionne Graves 2010 Rouge, 6E FOB

-Chateau Peneteaux 2010 Bordeaux Rouge, 1.85E

-Domaine Patrice Moreux Sancerre 2012 Blanc

-Chateau Ambe Tour Pourret St.Emilion Grand Cru 2010

-Chateau Teynac Cuvee Vieilles Vignes Puisseguin Saint-Emilion 2008

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau de Lionne Graves 2011 Rouge, 6E FOB

-Chateau Pont de Brion Graves 2011 Blanc [65% semillon] 7E FOB

-Chateau Pont de Brion Graves 2010 Rouge

-Chateau Pont de Brion Graves 2009 Rouge

-Chateau Guillaume Blanc Cuvee du Consul 2010 Bordeaux Superieur, 3.75E

-Domaine des Blais Cotes de Provence 2012 Rose

-Chateau d'Aiguilhe Querve 2010 Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon Rouge

-Patris St.Emilion Grand Cru 2011, 8.90E

-Le Moulin Pomerol 2010, 34E

-Chateau Lanbersac Puisseguin Saint-Emilion 2009

-Chateau de Roquebrune Lalande de Pomerol 2010, 8E

-Chateau Moulin de Clotte Cuvee Dominique Castillon-Cotes de Bordeaux 2009, $17.95 LCBO

-Mas Karolina Cotes du Roussillon Village 2011

-Mas Karolina Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes 2011

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau de Lionne Graves 2010 Blanc

-Chateau de Lionne Graves 2011 Blanc

-Chateau Pont de Brion Graves 2011 Rouge

-Chateau Les Trois Tours Bordeaux 2012 Rouge

-Domaine Auzias Cuvee Monsieur IGP de la Cit de Carcassonne Rouge

-Chateau Moulin de Clotte Castillon-Cotes de Bordeaux 2010

-Le Clairet Rose Bordeaux 2011

 

The Food: we were served courses and expected to get our own wines for accompaniment. I decided to taste all the wines first or between courses, so I did not really have a chance to taste all the wines with the food. First up was an enticing strawberry gazpacho with mozzarella and truffle (no wine with this one). The organic salmon tartare with avocado puree was superb with a variety of Graves and the Sancerre. I had seconds. The reds were split between the Cornish hen marinated in piri-piri (too spicy for many of the wines) and the cavatelli pasta in a basic san marzano and basil sauce (best choice). The goat cheese panna cotta would have gone well with a Sauterne, if there was one.

The Downside: we were late in getting started, that's becoming normal these days.

The Upside: I especially liked the format of the community table – it gave me a chance to see everybody.

The Contact Person: carole.ringuet@ubifrance.fr

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or
classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-
editions"...

 

25. GREENS! Tips and techniques for growing your own vegetables
(Skyhorse Publishing, 2013; distr. T. Allen, 194 pages, ISBN 978-1-
62087-729-6, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Karin Eliasson, a Swedish
writer-gardener. It was originally published in Swedish in 2012; this
is its North American debut. It is a comprehensive enough book, with
photos of techniques, plants, and maintenance. No index, but veggies
are listed in the table of contents, beginning with leaves, stalks,
belladonnas, squashes, beans and peas, lily family, root veggies, and
cabbage family. There is a primer on growing and how to handle problems
that may arise when cultivating. There's also a recommended reading
section plus magazines and internet resources. Quality/price rating:
85.

 

 

 

26. UNCORKED; the science of champagne. Rev. ed. (Princeton University
Press, 2004, 2013, 194 pages, ISBN 978-0-691-15872-3, $24.95 US hard
covers) is by Gerard Liger-Belair, a physics professor at the
University of Reims. It is not so much revised as added to, with a new
foreword by Herve This and a 40 page "Afterword" by Liger-Belair. I
couldn't compare the original text with the current reissue, but I
suspect that the original still stands and the afterword updates it
with the latest research and experimental techniques, plus glassware
and enjoyment. The verso actually says "second printing, with a new
foreword by…and a new afterword by…", and without a 2013 copyright. The
original bibliography still stands, but has been updated through the
"Afterword". I have no problem with all of this, but it should be made
clear that this is not normally a "revised" book, but rather a
supplemented book, perhaps made awkward by a certain amount of checking
the original and the update to make sure of the text. Could it not have
been easier to just re-do the text? The publisher did redo the index to
a comprehensive whole. Nevertheless, a classic book that I enjoyed on
first reading years ago, explaining the science of champagne – and of
course the longest entry in the index is to "bubbles". Quality/price
rating: 86.

 

 

 

27. VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD (Hardie Grant, 2011, 2013; distr. Random
House of Canada, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-74270489-0, $29.95 US soft
covers) is by Tracy Lister and Andreas Pohl. Lister spent 15 years in
Melbourne restaurants before moving to Vietnam; she now runs a cooking
school in Hanoi. Her book was originally published in 2011, and this is
the 2013 reprint for the North American market. This is street food at
its finest: Lister provides us with more than 60 authentic tasty preps,
representing all the best elements of Vietnam food wagons. The food is
fast, fresh, and fragrant. And if you do it yourself at home, then
there is no worry over the food. Cooking methods include rolling,
grilling, roasting, boiling, steaming, and frying – and the book's
arrangement is by method. There are separate chapters for sweets,
sauces and condiments, banh mi and salads. There's a glossary at the
back. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric weight and
avoirdupois volume measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Expect such dishes as shrimp and rice paper rolls, chicken
noodle soup, salt and pepper calamari, various banh mi sandwiches, pork
skewers, and fried spring rolls. Quality/price rating: 87.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com