WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR DECEMBER 7, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR DECEMBER 7, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

Since Labour Day, I have tasted several hundred sparkling wines,
including repeats. Here are my best value CHAMPAGNES from today's
release of FIZZ, all rated 90 points or better

 

-Henriot Souverain Brut Champagne NV, +959643, $59.95. 90 points.
-Lanson Gold Medal Brut Champagne 2001, +722520, $79.95. 91 points.
-Moet & Chandron Grand Vintage Brut Champagne 2004, +69773, $83.95. 92
points.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

WHITE Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2011 Alsace, +224626, $17.95: killer
Gewurz, Gold Medalist, 13.5% ABV, MVC all the way, succulent,
concentrated, slight bitterness on finish. QPR: 91.

 

RED Small Gully The Formula Robert's Shiraz 2009 South Australia,
+142935, $18.95: deep, dark and mocha delicious, older vines at 40
years old, aged almost five years already, drink soonish. 15.9% ABV
will blow you away. QPR: 91.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

White Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa, +357723, $49.95 magnum

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Trapiche Finca La Palmas Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2011 Uco Valley
Mendoza, +355610, $16.95: "Gran Reserva" appeared on the label, not on
the website. Very good tropicality, light oaking for creaminess, off-
dry palate, 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
2. Bollig-Lehnert Piesporter Riesling Kabinett 2011 Mosel, +345736,
$16.95: a riesling beauty with lots of fruit, off-dry, soft and
engaging. 10% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Veramonte Primus The Blend 2011 Colchagua Valley, +712463, $19.95:
very Euro in style (30% carmenere, 30 syrah, 20 cabernet sauv, rest cab
franc and Malbec and petit verdot. Complex enough for a long, long
finish. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
2. Clos Malverne Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2011 Basket Pressed WO
Stellenbosch, +678433, $13.95: 60 cab/40 merlot blend, French and US
oak, but Bordeaux-like. 14% ABV, value in price. QPR: 89.
3. Chateau Bertinerie Merlot/Cabernet 2009 Cotes de Bordeaux-Blaye,
+244640, $18.95: good stuffing, ready now, merlot based (60%) with cab
sauv (30) and cab franc (10). 13.5% ABV satisfied. QPR: 89.
4. Thevenet & Fils Byssieres Les Clos Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2011,
+356733, $17.95: value-packed, very compact red burgundy, affordable,
13% ABV. Bronze medal – but just about every wine is bronze, so why the
sticker? QPR: 89.
5. Cave de Roquebrun Les Fiefs d'Aupenac 2011 Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun,
+354183, $19.95: Gold Medalist, has aged nicely in two years, 14% ABV,
garrigue and oak dominate but tempered by fruit. QPR: 89.
6. Villa Medoro Rosso del Duca Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009, +357160,
$18.95: very warm, very North American appeal, 14% ABV. Concentrated
cherries, slight mocha. QPR: 89.
7. Luigi Righetti Campolieti Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore
2011, +695890, $17.95: the LCBO's "Ripasso of the month", QPR: 89.
8. Quinta dos Carvalhais Duque de Viseu Red 2009 Dao, +546309, $13.95:
a nifty little red that flies under the radar, using the grape
varieties used for Port to create a dry wine. Affordable, 13.5% ABV.
QPR: 89.
9. Beronia Reserva 2008 Rioja, +50203, $18.95: 18 months in both US and
French oak for fine crafting and storage of a really good Rioja, albeit
in a slightly new style (French oak and fruit). Good aging, great
price. QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Sperling Vineyards Old Vines Riesling 2011 VQA Okanagan, +361204,
$34 retail.
2. Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly Fume 2012, +358697, $26.95.
3. Cave Spring Estate Bottled Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Beamsville Bench,
+246561, $34.95.
4. Cave Spring Estate CSV Cabernet Franc 2008, VQA Beamsville Bench,
+72751, $24.95.
5. KWV The Mentors Canvas WO Coastal Region, +348839, $24.95.
6. Firesteed Cellars Citation Pinot Noir 2003 Oregon, +677146, $59.95.
7. Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz 2010 Barossa, +32227, $26.95.
8. Chateau Barde-Haut 2009 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe, +197244,
$57.85.
9. Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2011, +700922, $57.95.
10. Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +928028, $49.95.
11. Luce della Vite La Vite Lucente 2011 IGT Toscana, +747030, $34.95.
12. Pietranera Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +189761, $37.95.
13. Bod. Franco-Espanolas Rioja Bordon Gran Reserva 2004, +114454,
$24.95.
14. Valsacro Dioro 2005 Rioja, +345694, $32.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH --

--Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2008, $33.95 (500 mL),
+47209): intense Hungarian nectar, full of apricot, dried peach and
orange peel, tempered with caramelization. Long finish deserves foie
gras as a starter, or quality blue cheese as an ending. 11.5% ABV.
Hungarian Gold Medalist. Quality/price rating 93 points by Dean Tudor.

 

--Cavas La Capilla Aldebaran Torrontes 2012 San Carlos Uco, $20.45 from
CTIL Fine Wines (www.ctilwinesandspirits.com): lovely floral aromas
(honeysuckle, jasmine) and fruity flavours (apricot) on the entry,
followed by mid-palate marmalade/tangerine, some peach, and ending with
a citric finish, making it good for first courses as well as sipping.
Slightly unctuous concentration, 13.5% ABV. Now would be a good time to
make Torrontes the wine of Toronto!! Quality/Price rating is 90 points
by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Carmine Granata Malbec 2013 Mendoza, $ 14.95 from CTIL Fine Wines:
decent fruity wine with aromas of flowers arising from the Malbec, long
finish, chocolate and coffee, but soft fruity tannins on finish.
13.7% ABV. One of the Intervin Best Value Wines Under $15, and previous
vintages have won gold in Argentine competitions. Quality/Price rating
is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Carmine Granata Malbec Roble 2009 Gran Reserva Mendoza, $ 25.75 from
CTIL Fine Wines: a classy wine, serious, full-bodied and intense. Berry
fruit is plush and lush, with pie spices, espresso coffee notes, and a
mouth-filling finish of juice with some lingering acidity. Not yet
ready; I tasted it over a week. Lay this down in your cellar. 13.9%
ABV, French oak for a year, some dried fruit showing (prunes, figs).
Intervin Silver Medal. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor
of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Mevi San Gimignano Malbec Reserve 2011 Maipu Mendoza, $27.45 from
CTIL Fine Wines: another wine at 13.9% ABV, with storage for a year in
both French and US oak (mostly new). Fruity jammy, sweet tannins, mocha
tones, more dried fruits and raisins, spices. There is a lot going on
here; tasted over one week. Intervin Silver Medal. Quality/Price rating
is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Mevi San Gimignano Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007 Maipu Mendoza,
$27.45 from CTIL Fine Wines: Expect a hefty cab here – lots of both red
and black fruit (red and black currants), mocha (more as week
progressed), and promising spices. 14 months in French and US oak,
13.9% ABV, already aged six years but promises more. Opened and tasted
over a week. Intervin Silver. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean
Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Shinas Estate The Verdict Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Mildura Victoria,
$25.95 from CTIL Fine Wines: the Mediterranean climate continues here;
the hot and dry system produces superripe grapes. Dark, deep and plumy,
this typical Oz Cab has strong MVC. Needs to keep for awhile; I opened
it and tasted it over a week. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean
Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Shinas Estate The Guilty Shiraz 2010 Mildura Victoria, $25.95 from
CTIL Fine Wines: coming in at a whopping 15.5% ABV, this shiraz does
not mess around – expect ripe red fruit (cherries, strawbs) plus the
inevitable mocha tones. Juicy Lucy is one way to describe the wine.
Made from low-yielding vines dating back to 1898, and aged in older
French oak. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor
of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Shinas Estate The Innocent Viognier 2012 Mildura Victoria, $25.95
from CTIL Fine Wines: excellent viognier, off-dry mode with longer
length, with MVC apricots/melons/honey tones. Very ripe and succulent,
slightly baked character from heat, lower acid, viscous and unctuous,
almost grapey fruit. Better as a sipper than with food, but could be
useful for such as blue cheese, nuts, liver. 14.4% ABV, twist top.
Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Shinas Estate Sweet Justice Moscato 2012 Mildura Victoria, $20.95
from CTIL Fine Wines: done up as they do in Italy, light and lively,
and off-sweet grapey taste with a real sparkling character. Could be
mistaken for a Moscato d'Asti. Already two years old, but still fresh,
preserved by sparkle. Best at beginning or end of meal, especially with
a cake dessert. Heavy bottle for extra protection? Twist top, 7.1% ABV.
Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Artur & Luiza Ferro Cultural Aragonez 2010 Regional Alentejano,
$18.95 from CTIL Fine Wines: from 10 year old vines, fermented in
steel, some of it aged in French oak for 9 months, 14% ABV. Leafy,
tobacco tones, good body, little tannins, good concentration, food wine
in old Euro style. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of
Gothic Epicures.

 

=======================================================================

 

1. The Date and Time: Monday, November 4, 2013  11AM to 5PM
The Event: A Tasting of Wines from Italy, 18th edition in Toronto
The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: most everything is available via the normal
LCBO distribution programs, or by private order. There were a few
wineries seeking agents, with "unavailable" products for retail sale.
The Quote/Background: I usually enjoy this show when I do the
serendipity approach. This year I tasted just a few whites such as
moscato d'Asti at the end. I did not do consecutive tables: I went end
to end, getting a walk out of it and meeting new people.
The Wines: I did not try every wine, and retail prices were spotty in
their availability.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva di Costasera 2007,
$64.95 Con Authentic
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Mazzano 2007
-Ciu Ciu Offida Rosso 2006 Esperanto organic, $38.95 PO Le Sommelier
-Amastuola Puglia IGP Vignatorta Syrah 2010, $14 C&E Worldfinds
-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Riserva Rocche 2004 Profile
-Benedetti Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Croce del Gal 2006, $115
Tre Amici
-Bersano Vini Barolo Badarina 2008 Profile
-Bersano Vini Moscato d'Asti San Michele 2012 Profile
-Cononica Cerreto Chinati Classico Riserva 2008, $21.95 Frontier
-Cantine di Marco Salice Salentino Riserva 2008, United Stars
-Castorani Iarno Rosso Colline Pescaresi IGT 2009, $62  Vinexx
-Cesari Gerardo Amarone della Valpolicella Bosan 2005 Profile
-Cusumano NOA Sicilia IGP 2010  Family
-Latium Morini Amarone della Valpolicella Campo Leon 2009, BND Wines
-Manfredi Barbaresco Umberto Fiore 2008, $17 LCBO
-Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Tradizione 2010  Majestic
-Michele Satta Toscana IGT Cavaliere 2006 Majestic
-PWS Barolo Colarej Gemma 2008  Ruby
-Ruffino Brunello di Montalcino Greppone Mazzi 2007   Constellation
-Ruffino Toscana IGT Modua 2010  Constellation
-Luce Brunello di Monalcino 2008  Authentic
-Valentina Cubi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Morar 2006  Vino
Allegro
-Moscato d'Asti Castello del Poggio 2012, $11.10 LCBO

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera 2009, $39.95
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe 2007
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vaio Armaron Serego Alighieri
2007 Authentic
-Ciu Ciu Offida Pecorino 2012 Merlettaie, $18.95 PO Le Sommelier
-Ciu Ciu Rosso Piceno Superiore 2009 Gotico, $19.95 PO Le Sommelier
-Amastuola Salentino Primitivo IGP 2011, $16 C&E Worldfinds
-Amastuola Puglia IGP Onda del Tempo 2010, $20 C&E Worldfinds
-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Riserva Rocche 2005
-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Riserva Rocche 2006
-Bersano Vini Barolo Nirvasco 2009 Profile
-Cononica Cerreto Chianti Classico 2009, $16.95 Frontier
-Cononica Cerreto Toscana IGT Sandiavolo 2007, $24.95 Frontier
-Castoriani Podere 2008 Riserva Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, $42 Vinexx
-Castoriani Amorino 2007 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, $30 Vinexx
-Cesari Gerardo Amarone della Valpolicella Classico It Bosco 2007
Profile
-Clavesana Siamo Barolo Olo 2009, $40
-De Angelis Rosso Piceno Superiore Oro 2009 Marche, $18.95  Ruby
-Fatt. Cabanon Oltrepo Pavese Cuoredivino La Botte No. 18 2010, $27.95
Glencairn
-Feudo Disia Sicilia IGT Tornamira 2008, $30  Bassoalto
-Gruppo Italiano Vini Santi Amarone della Valpolicella Santi 2008, PMA
-Manfredi Barolo Patrizi 2008  HHD Imports
-Manfredi Barolo Patrizi 2009  HHD Imports
-Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Tradizione 2008  Majestic
-Michele Satta Bolgheri Superiore I Castagni 2006  Majestic
-Pietro Rinaldi Barolo Monvigliero 2009  Connexion
-PWS Barolo Gemma 2009  Ruby
-Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro 2008
-Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale 2009
-Valentina Cubi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Morar 2007  Vino
Allegro
-Wineoclock Amarone della Valpolicella 2008  Wine world
-Zeni Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigne Alte 2009, $39.95 
Frontier
-Banfi Alta Langa Cuvee Aurora Rose 2009 Sparkling, $23 Authentic

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Provincia di Pavia IGT Cavit Moscato 2012, $11.95 Noble
-Farnese Fantini Cuvee Cococciola $20 Authentic

 

The Food: cheeses, cold cuts, prosciuttos, meat balls, veggie pastas,
breads, catered by Cibo Wine Bar
The Downside: too many wines to try in one day, and there was also a
high security level.
The Upside: a chance to taste what I really wanted.
The Contact Person:  p.titone@ice.it
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
88.

 

 

 

 

 

2. The Date and Time: Monday, November 4, 2013  6:00PM – 10PM
The Event: Taste Canada; the food writing awards 2013
The Venue: Arcadian Court
The Target Audience: food writers, media, publishers
The Quote/Background: The Food Writing Awards drew 64 submissions, for
eight categories (four in each of French and English). The Gala
Reception was hosted by CBC's Stefano Faita. Other awards were for
Taste Canada/CBC People's Choice Book Award (Vegetarian's Complete
Quinoa Cookbook) and the new Hall of Fame inductees (Elizabeth Baird,
Mere Emelie Caron, and Helen Gougeon), plus awards for student food
competition winners.

 

The Book Winners: for the English language,

 

--BEST Culinary Narrative – French Kids Eat Everything (And Yours Can
Too), by Karen Le Billon (Harper Collins).

 

--BEST General Cookbook – Canada's Favourite Recipes, by Rose Murray
and Elizabeth Baird (Whitecap Books).

 

--BEST Regional/Cultural Cookbook – Burma: Rivers of Flavor, by Naomi
Duguid (Random House Canada).

 

--BEST Single Subject Cookbook – The Book of Kale: The Easy-to-Grow
Superfood; 80+ recipes, by Sharon Hanna

 

The Alcohol Beverages: there were beers from Alexander Keith's (but no
cider)—India Pale Ale, Cascade Hop (Washington) Ale, and Hallertauer
Hop (Bavaria) Ale. The Niagara Teaching College Winery sent along their
Unoaked Chardonnay 2011 (4 stars) and their Merlot 2009 (3 stars).
The Food: There were nine stations of food for us to sample afterwards:

 

-Chef Joshua Dyer (EPIC, Fairmont Royal York): Ontario elk tenderloin
bresola, chevre, quince, marrow and balsamic.
-Chef Matt Dean Pettit (Rock Lobster)- for the second year in a row he
left early when cleaned out of Nova Scotia lobster rolls, butter
poached vanilla lobster spoons, and lobster deviled eggs (poached with
beet juice)
-Chef Brad Lomanto (Cambridge Mill Restaurant): cardoon ravioli, tongue
bacon, celery.
-Chefs Michael Robertson and Jamie Meireles (Oliver & Bonacini): maple
and chili smoked Pacific salmon, preserved peach and squash pickle,
sage crème fraiche, and grilled bannock.
-Chef Vanessa Yeung (Aphrodite Cooks): pork pot stickers, carrot and
daikon radish slaw.
-Chef Tawfik Shehata (Toronto International Centre): Willow Grove Hill
pork milk braised, Alberta barley cake pan-fried, jalapeno, chick pear
flour, eggs – my overall fave!!
-Chef Wanda Beaver (Wanda's Pie in the Sky): sour cherry tarts, meyer
lemon tarts, pecan squares.
-Chef Dufflet Rosenberg (Dufflet Pastries): caramel dacquoise of
hazelnut meringue and white chocolate, cappuccino dacquoise, and
hazelnut dacquoise.

 

The Downside: I had previously killed my tasting palate in the
afternoon at the ICE show.
The Upside: it was terrific congratulating all the winners!
The Contact Person: debby@mdgassociates.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
94.

 

 

 

 

 

3. The Date and Time: Tuesday, November 5, 2013  10AM to noon
The Event: Champagne Deutz tasting with Export Director Philippe Rivet
and the team from his Ontario agency, Tandem Selections.
The Venue: Independent Wine Education Guild Toronto offices
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: mostly from the agent.
The Quote/Background: M. Rivet spoke to his company before we tasted
the wines – they use first pressings only, 80% of their total acreage
is Grand or Premier Cru (mostly around Ay), and they use the same
distinctive unique bottle shape for all labels. There was a visual tour
of the facilities and vineyards, as well as graphs and charts.
The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Deutz Brut Rose NV, $79.95 - strawbs
-Deutz Brut 2006, $94.95
-Deutz Blanc de Blancs 2007, $109.95
-Deutz Cuvee William Deutz 2000, $199.95 – my personal fave of the
tasting (1998 is in BC), nicely decomposing.
-Deutz Amous de Deutz 2005, $229.95 – chardonnay, slightly off-dry

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Deutz Brut Classic NV, $64.95

 

The Contact Person: crupcic@tandemselections.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
90.

 

 

 

 

 

4. The Date and Time: Tuesday, November 5, 2013   2PM to 6PM
The Event: Mark Anthony Portfolio Tasting
The Venue: Soho House
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is landed (Vintages,
Consignment) or Private Order. The spiral catalogue, while a good idea,
was awkward to use in the limited space, and the page numbers were not
large enough for the dim lighting. I know that some users were
confused.
The Quote/Background: There were 25 suppliers, from a range of
companies.
The Wines: I did not try every wine. Prices are licensee.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dona Paula Seleccion de Bodega Malbec 2008, $39.95 PO
-Dona Paula Yacochuya 2006, $49.95 Vintages
-Santa Rita Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $61.95
-Chateau Laroque St-Emilion Grand Cru 2005, $59
-Simonet-Febvre Les Clos 2010, $94.95
-Lanson Gold Label Vintage Brut 2002, $79.95  - my fave of the tasting
-Lanson Extra Age Brut NV, $99.99
-Lanson Vintage 1993, $517.95 magnum
-Gunderloch Riesling Spatlese Nackenheim Rothenberg 2012, $36.95
-Gunderloch Riesling Auslese Nackenheim Rothenberg 2011, $55.60
-Gunderloch Riesling Beerenauslese Nackenheim Rothenberg 2008, $239.95 
375mL
-Falesco Montiano Lazio 2010, $44.95
-Tenuta Sant' Antonio Campo Dei Gigli Amarone 2006, $79.95 LCBO Spring
2014
-Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $59.95
-Rodney Strong Alexander's Crown Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $99.95
-Rodney Strong Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $99.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Mission Hill Oculus 2010, $70.79
-Mission Hill SLC Syrah 2010, $32.79
-Mission Hill Perpetua 2010, $30.99
-Mike Weir Riesling 2012, $19.21
-Stoney Ridge Excellence Chardonnay 2011, $16.67
-Stoney Ridge Excellence Merlot 2010, $16.67
-Stoney Ridge Pinot Grigio 2011, $11.61
-Santa Rita Bougainville Petite Sirah 2010, $99.95
-Santa Rita Pehuen Carmenere 2007, $59.95 PO
-Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2012 Alsace, $19.25
-Louis Latour Merusault 1er Cru Chateau de Blagny 2009, $77.95
-Louis Latour Chateau Corton-Grancey Grand Cru 2008, $138.95 PO
-Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2010, $199.95 PO
-Simonet-Febvre Chablis 2010, $19.95
-Lanson Black Kaleb NV, $53.95
-Chateau Montus 2007 Rouge, $32.95
-Chateau Montus 2010 Blanc
-Chateau Montus La Tyre 2002 $104.95
-Schloss Johannisberg Grunlack Spatlese 2012, $37.95
-Schloss Johannisberg Silberlack Grosses Gewachs 2012, $53.95
-Cavas Hill Cava Brut NV, $13.95 LCBO Spring 2013
-Collavini Broy Collio 2011 Bianco, $49.95
-Tormaresca Roycello Fiano 2012, $21.95
-Alois Lageder Porer Pinot Grigio 2012, $27.95
-Alois Lageder Lowengang Chardonnay 2010, $49.95
-Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico 2011
-Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
-Montelvini Venegazzu Prodry Prosecco NV, $192 for 16 litres on draught
-Tenuta Sant' Antonio Amarone Selezione 2010, $44.95 LCBO Spring
-Nederburg Manor House Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $16.95  LCBO Spring 2014
-Tangley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $25.95
-Sanford Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills 2009, $54.95
-Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2011 Sonoma

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mike Weir Pinot Noir 2009, $14.14
-Mike Weir Unoaked Chardonnay 2012, $16.67
-Chateau Bois Pertuis 2012, $15.95
-Alois Lageder Dolomiti Pinot Grigio 2012, $16.95
-Castello Monsanto Chianti Monrosso 2011, $16.95
-Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio 2008, $65
-Falesco Tellus Syrah 2011 Umbria, $17.95
-Nederburg Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, $16.95 LCBO Spring 2014
-Nederburg Heritage Heroes Anchor Man Chenin Blanc 2012, $27.95
-Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $79.95
-Rodney Strong Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $27.95

 

The Food: charcuterie plate with cheeses, fruit, breads and toasts.
The Downside: it was pretty crowded, mainly because the laneway between
tables was not wide enough to accommodate two lines of tasters.
The Upside: a chance to speak with reps from the companies.
The Contact Person: portfoliotasting@markanthony.com,
dshorrocks@markanthony.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
86.

 

 

 

 

 

5. The Date and Time: Thursday, November 14, 2013  1PM to 5:15PM
The Event: Media tasting with Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble: Argentina
meets BC meets Nova Scotia.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are at the LCBO in some format.
The Quote/Background: This was a tasting of their "out-of-province"
wine portfolio, of soon to be released wines.
The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Benjamin Bridge Blanc de Blanc 2004 MC Nova Scotia, $280 N/A – my fave
-Benjamin Bridge Reserve Brut 2007 MC Nova Scotia, $280 +275396 $74.95
-Sperling Vineyards Estate Brut Sparkling 2008 MC VQA Okanagan,
+361436, $39.95
-Sperling Vineyards Estate Old Vines Riesling 2011 VQA Okanagan,
+361204, $34.95
-Versado Reserva Malbec 2010 Single Vineyard Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza,
+316984, $59.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Sperling Vineyards Estate Sper…itz Moscato 2011 VQA Okanagan, +364166,
$12.95 375 mL
-Versado Malbec 2012 Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza, +317008, $25.95
-Clos du Soleil Signature 2011 VQA Okanagan [Bordeaux-type red blend]
-Clos du Soleil Capella 2011 VQA Okanagan [Bordeaux-type white blend]

 

The Downside: nothing
The Upside: on the way to the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo
The Contact Person: versadowine@gmail.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
91.

 

 

 

 

 

6. The Date and Time: Thursday, November 14, 2013 6Pm to 10PM
The Event: 19th Annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo
The Venue: Metro Convention Centre
The Target Audience: VIPs night, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: I did some wines, most are available via
LCBO. There was also a great Casa Toscana olive oil/balsamic tasting.
The Quote/Background: each booth had its own system of displaying its
wares, so it was a bit chaotic and noisy. I did not visit every booth,
of course, but Select and Trialto were the better ones for notes about
the wines. Everybody should use business cards. Other booths visited
included Strewn, AltoVino, New Zealand, MCO, Food Wines Portugal,
Pontos Imports.

 

The Wines: From AltoVino as private orders, I tasted Farr Rising
Chardonnay 2009 (3.5 stars), Key Brothers Block 6 Shiraz 2008 ($99.50,
3.5 stars), By Farr Shiraz 2009 ($79, 3.5 stars), J.J. Ahn Regional
Shiraz/Cabernet 2010 ($21.95, 3.5 stars), Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz
2012 ($35, 3.5 stars), Rob Dolan True Colours CSM 2012 ($25, 4 stars),
Kalleske Shiraz 2010 ($109, 3 stars) and Kalleske Shiraz Pirathan 2012
($29, 3 stars). From Pontos Imports, Luna Sicana Fiano 2012 ($25, 3.5
stars), Luna Sicana Catarrato 2012 ($25, 3.5 stars), Luna Sicana Luna
Sol NV ($40, 3 stars), Mastrogiureto Calabria Rosso 2010 ($30, 4
stars), Techni Alipiac 2008 ($25, 3.5 stars), plus two Greek wines with
winery names written in Greek: a Roditis 2012 ($18, 3 stars) and a
Assyrtiko Drama Idisma Drios 2011 (3 stars).

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Strewn Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2012 VQA, $12.95 – RWF Award
-Hidden Bench Chardonnay 2011 VQA, $28.95 Vintages
-Pinho Real Vinho Verde 2012, $11.80 FWP
-Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Chile, $21.95 LCBO
-Catena Malbec 2011 Mendoza, $19.95 Vintages
-Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $19.96 Vintages
-Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Calcaire 2011 Alsace, $24.95 Vintages
-Herve Seguin Pouilly Fume 2011 Loire, $19.75 Vintages

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Hidden Bench Riesling 2012 VQA, $23.95 Vintages
-Hidden Bench Terroir Cache 2009 VQA Beamsville, $32.95 Vintages
-Strewn Cottage Block Sauvignon Blanc/Riesling VQA Niagara 2012, $12.95
LCBO
-Strewn Two Vines White Riesling/Gewurztraminer VQA NOTL, $11.95 LCBO
-Esporao Red Reserva 2010 FWP
-Oyster Bay Wines Sparkling Cuvee Brut NV, $21.95 Vintages
-Oyster Bay Wines Chardonnay 2012, $18.95 Vintages
-Saint Clair Family Estate Vicar's Choice Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $15.95
LCBO
-Vina Maipo Vitral Reserva Chardonnay Casablanca, $13.95 LCBO
-Trivento Fair Trade Malbec Argentina, $11.95 LCBO
-Ebeia Roble Tempranillo Ribera del Duero, $14.95 LCBO
-Project Paso Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, $17.95 LCBO
-Mendel Malbec 2010 Mendoza, $24.95 Vintages
-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $22.95 Vintages
-Chateau Pipeau Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010, $35.95 Vintages
-Chateau L'Orangerie Bordeaux 2011, $13.95 Vintages
-Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese 2011 Mosel, $25.95
Vintages
-Michel Delhommeau Harmonie Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2011, $13.95
Vintages
-Vina San Esteban In Situ Signature Chardonnay-Viognier Aconcagua 2011,
$15.95 LCBO
-Vignerons de Buzet red Badge Merlot/CabSauv 2010, $12.95 LCBO
-Vina San Esteban In Situ Winemakers Selection Carmenere Aconcagua
2010, $13.95 Vintages
-Chateau Pineraie Cahors 2009, $15.95 Vintages
-Dornier Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot South Africa 2010, $16.95 Vintages

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Strewn Terroir Sauvignon Blanc 2012 VQA, $18.95
-Esporao Alandra White 2012, $8.05 LCBO
-Esporao Alandra Red 2012, $7.255 LCBO
-Brancott Estate Letter Series B Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $19.95 LCBO
-Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2012, $16.95 LCBO
-Firesteed Pinot Gris Oregon, $17.80 LCBO
-Asio Otus Red Blend Cab/Merlot/Syrah Italy. $13.95 LCBO
-Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon California, $19.95 LCBO
-Lodez Chardonnay-Viognier France, $12.65 LCBO
-Montresor Amarone della Valpolicella, $35.60 Vintages

 

The Food: I sampled some free junk food for I was hungry and shameless.
The Downside: too dim, too noisy, but it was opening night.
The Upside: a chance to met old friends on the floor and behind the
booths.
The Contact Person: Christopher.waters@sunmedia.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
87.

 

 

 

 

 

7. The Date and Time:  Sunday, November 17, 2013  7Pm to 9PM
The Event: a tasting of Cavas La Capilla Mendoza wines
The Venue: TOCA
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: the wines are available from the agent,
CTIL Fine Wines and Spirits (www.ctilwinesandspirits.com)
The Quote/Background: Lorena Meco, Commercial Director of Tradearg, led
the tasting, along with Hector Scarsi, company winemaker, and Brijesh
Patel from the agency. Noel Gallardo, export manager for Capilla, was
also present, giving us a steady stream of facts and figures and
prices. Capilla calls itself a boutique winery, with just over a 50,000
case production. Lately, it has been seeking export markets. Its
Penitente Malbec won best wine at Intervin, over 1400 other wines.
The Wines: We tasted a range of Malbecs, skipping one entry level, plus
a white wine for refresher.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cavas La Capilla Aldebaran Torrontes 2012 San Carlos Uco, $20.45 –
slightly oily
-Cavas La Capilla Penitente Malbec 2011 Lujan de Cuyo/San Carlos,
$43.95 – creamy, long length, ready
-Cavas La Capilla Templum Malbec Gran Reserva 2010 Altamira, $82.95 –
very Euro, Bordeaux-like, one more year but approachable now.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Cavas La Capilla Aldebaran Malbec 2012 Lujan de Cuyo, $25.95

 

The Food: an international and Quebec cheese plate and a charcuterie
plate, garnished with savouries veggies and dried/fresh fruit, plus
breads.
The Downside: I had just eaten dinner, and was assured that crackers
were on offer, so I was surprised at all the food! I know, I know – I
didn't have to eat it. My fault.
The Upside: a chance to taste some really good higher end Argentine
wines.
The Contact Person: lorena@tradearg.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
93.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH!

CANADIAN WINERIES (Firefly Books, 2013, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-
244-0, $29.95 CAN paper covers) is by Tony Aspler, well-known and
prolific Canadian wine writer, and photographer Jean-Francois Bergeron.
It is a photographic essay-profile to 82 of Canada's finest wineries.
Aspler provides the context with stories of the regions and the people,
while Bergeron illustrates the winemakers and modern facilities, the
vineyards, and the settings with his photos. Currently, there are over
560 wineries in Canada, and (if you include fruit wines and grape
juice) wine is made everywhere. Over the years, Aspler has written many
books about Canadian wines, and some have been photographed principally
by Steve Elphick. Here, Bergeron and Aspler have roamed around Canada
over the years in different seasons to produce what could actually be a
wine-touring guide (although it is a weighty book). To be selected in
the top 15% or so, a winery had to have quality and consistency in
vintages over the years, had to be historically significant in an
impact manner, and had to be aesthetically appealing for its setting.
There are 34 wineries here from Ontario, an equal number for BC, 9 from
Quebec, and 5 from Nova Scotia. Each gets a directory listing, a photo
of a wine bottle, a photo of people or building or vineyard (and more),
and a profile of the people and the business.
Audience and level of use: wine lovers, Canadian winery visitors,
reference libraries.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seven million tourists visit
Canadian wineries each year. Wineries contribute $6.8 billion a year
and support 31,000 jobs.
The downside to this book: no real tasting notes.
The upside to this book: a good look at important wineries and the
people behind them.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

TOP GIFT FOOD AND WINE BOOKS FOR 2013

ON THE DEAN'S LIST:

 

MY 17TH ANNUAL SURVEY OF FOOD AND DRINK-RELATED BOOKS
SUITABLE AS HOLIDAY GIFTS FOR THE 2013/14 PARTY PERIOD

 

NOVEMBER 30, 2013
===============================================================

 

By Dean Tudor, Ryerson Journalism Professor Emeritus and Gothic
Epicures Writing, www.deantudor.com (World Wine Watch Newsletter).
Blogs: http://gothicepicuresvincuisine.blogspot.com.
       http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com.
        Twitter: @gothicepicures

 

------

 

There are so many new food and wine books out there for people who have picky tastes!!
What to choose? I have cast about for material and have come up with a decent selection
to satisfy any pocketbook, any host, and any friend or relative. All books and book-like
materials that are listed here are RECOMMENDED, and probably can be purchased at a
discount via Amazon.Ca, Chapters.Ca (with free delivery on a total purchase of over
$25), or even The Book Depository in Guernsey.
Price Alert: because of US dollar fluctuations with Canada, all prices will vary. I have
used CAN wherever I know it.

 

Part One: TOP GIFT IDEAS
========================

 

A. Art/travel/expensive cookbooks might be some of the best books to give a loved one
(or to yourself, since you are your own best loved one), because most may cost you an
arm and a leg. Books for the coffee table have their place in the gift scheme: just about
every such book is only bought as a gift! And don't let the prices daunt you. Such books
are available at a discount from online vendors. Because of the "economy", not too many
pricey food and wine books were released last year and this year, and book reviewers
were cut off from many foreign imports and expensive books.

 

--SETTING A FINE TABLE; historical desserts and drinks from the Officers' kitchens at
Fort York (Whitecap Books,  2013, 144 pages, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is probably at
the top of my gift food books for the Holidays – it is a great read and it is affordable
(Amazon has it at $14.56). It's edited by Elizabeth Baird (well-known cookery expert and
author AND a volunteer historic cook at Fort York) and Bridget Wranich (Programme
Officer at Fort York AND co-founder of the Culinary Historians of Canada). There are
31 preps here, with the original and the modern equivalent for each, introduced by an
explanation of why it was chosen, how it would have been used at the Fort in the past and
how it is used at the Fort today. Research and testing was done by the Volunteer Historic
Cooks at Fort York. Everything in that day was local, and so it is here today. Go mad
over orange gingerbread, jumbles, peppermint drops, and negus ice. There's also a
bibliography for additional reading, including a list of historic cookbooks, and
specialized recipe indexes.

 

--THE WORLD'S BEST ASIAN NOODLE RECIPES (Race Point Publishing, 2013, 288
pages, $30 CAN hard covers) is a publisher's collation consisting of some 125 recipes
from top international chefs who specialize in noodles: from Japan, China, Korea,
Thailand, India, as well as Montreal, New York city, London, Paris. Each prep is sourced
as to provenance, with tales of the restaurant. Recipes are presented by ingredients:
seafood, meat, poultry and veggie. Typical are ebi yakisoba (sweet and spicy shrimp
noodles), potato noodles in sake clam sauce, Tokyo seafood ramen soup, bow ties with
Asian chicken, and Thai sesame noodles.

 

--THE ART OF THE PASTRY (Monacelli Press, 2013; dist. Random House Canada,
240 pages, $45 hard covers) is by party designer David Stark with John Morse. Stark
does planning and design events for dinners, opening nights, baby showers, museums,
awards evenings, bat and bar mitzvahs, children's parties, anniversaries and weddings.
These are all here. Indeed, some weddings here were produced in collaboration with
Martha Stewart Weddings (30 pages of details).

 

--125 MILLION TRADITIONAL ITALIAN GOURMET MENUS (Academia Barilla,
2013; distr. T. Allen, unpaged, $31.95 spiral bound) is from the well-respected Academia
Barilla, a teaching/research centre in Italy. There are 225 recipes here, 50 for each of four
courses (antipasto, primo, secondi, dolce) plus 25 side dishes. Apparently, it is
mathematically possible to mix and match for 125 million combinations of Italian
cuisine, enough to satisfy everyone. Each prep is on a card in this spiral edition, which
can be flipped back and forth to match other dishes – and thereby you can create your
own menu. Each prep is illustrated, and there are indications of cooking times, calories,
difficulty, ingredients (both avoirdupois and metric weights and volumes), and the
instructions. Some suggested menus are given, and it is all held together by an index.
Bargain price.

 

--PIMENTOS & PIRI PIRI; Portuguese comfort cooking (Whitecap Books, 2013, 376
pages, $39.95 CAN soft covers) is by Carla Azevedo, a chef grad from George Brown
College and a grad from Ryerson's Journalism school. It is a substantially updated,
revised, expanded and extended version of her first book, Uma Casa Portuguesa which
dealt with home style Portuguese food, but largely Azorean. Here, she concentrates more
on the mainland and some transition elements in North America to account for the tastes
of the waves of Portuguese immigrants over the past 20 years since she wrote Uma. She
spent time with Portuguese women and came up with this book of new preps and stories
from the Portuguese kitchen. There is a primer on the essential of Portuguese cuisine, 330
recipes from apps to desserts, engaging photos, and both metric and avoirdupois
measurements in the ingredient lists. Anyone for grilled octopus in red pepper and olive
relish? Or caldo verde, piri piri, and bolo de natal com figos?

 

--KENVIN; an artist's kitchen (Gibbs Smith, 2013; dist. Raincoast, 344 pages, $60 CAN,
hard covers) is by Kenvin Lyman (1942-2011), a cook, winemaker, organic farmer,
international artist and illustrator. Indeed, it has been described as "food, art, and wisdom
of a Bohemian cowboy". The book is part memoir and part cookbook, loaded with details
about his Utah ranch and farm: growing, preparing, and eating locally). His illustrations
are scattered throughout. It is well worth a look.

 

--TREME; stories and recipes from the heart of New Orleans (Chronicle Books; dist.
Raincoast, 240 pages, $34.95 CAN  hard covers) is by Lolis Eric Elie, and comes with
tons of endorsements, which are unnecessary since the book is related to the acclaimed
HBO cable-TV series. Here are 100 heritage and contemporary recipes from the post-
Katrina survival of New Orleans. There are original preps from chefs and guest stars
(such as David Chang) and from Commander's Palace restaurant. Try crawfish ravioli,
smothered turnip soup, slow-roasted duck, sweet potato turnovers, and the Sazerac
cocktail.

 

--J'AIME NEW YORK; 150 culinary destinations for food lovers (Editions Alain
Ducasse, 620 pages, $52 CAN hard covers) is by well-known chef and educator Alain
Ducasse, assisted by Alex Vallis. The book weighs 11.5 pounds (just over 5 kilos) and
has a padded cover – to protect your foot if you drop it?? Included is a portable
guidebook to take with you on your outside journeys. There are lots of photos and
materials on restaurants in New York City. The basics range from hot dogs in Brooklyn
to restaurants in Manhattan, with histories and food accounts plus recipes. Ducasse also
wrote J'Aime Paris, but that book had 200 destinations.

 

--SWEET DELIGHTS FROM A THOUSAND AND ONE NIGHTS (I.B. Taurus, 2013;
dist. Raincoast, 254 pages, $33.50 CAN hard covers) is by Habeeb Salloum and his two
daughters, Muna and Leila. It is an historical account of traditional Arab sweets and the
sweet tooth of the caliphs and their feasts. The book has academic scholarship, with
footnotes, glossary, bibliography and 32 colour plates. The 300 recipes are derived from
nine major mediaeval Arabic cookbooks, written 1100-1400. About 1600 preps were
examined: pastries, cookies, puddings, cakes, pies, candies. Their next book is to be
Mediaeval Delights from the Arabian Nights, concentrating on the feasts.

 

--MARY PRATT (Goose Lane Editions, 2013, 160 pages, $55 CAN hard covers) is the
catalogue for the Mary Pratt career retrospective now touring Canada (St. John's,
Windsor, Kleinberg, Regina, Halifax). Here are 75 reproductions of her most renowned
work which includes Eggs in an egg crate, Salmon on saran, Eviscerated chickens, and
Cod fillets on tin foil. There are also five essays about her work which elevates the
mundane to the monumental – all food related paintings.

 

--CUISINE NICOISE (Gibbs Smith, 2013, 240 pages, $44 CAN hard covers) deals with
the cooking of the French Riviera, as written by Hillary Davis, a food writer who lived
near Nice for 11 years. The cuisine has always been dependent on locally accessible food,
with lamb-pork-game-duck-chicken dominating over beef. Most of the cuisine is, of
course, related to Italian food: there is a good commingling over time. The wide range
here includes a dozen soups, 13 salads, plus meats and desserts.

 

--PATISSERIE (Rizzoli, 2013; dist. Random House Canada, 800 pages, $55 CAN hard
covers) is by Christophe Felder, a master pastry chef with 20 French cookbooks to his
name plus a major pastry school in Strasbourg. This book is subtitled "Mastering the
fundamentals of French pastry" and promotes the techniques over the recipes: nuances of
rolling out dough for croissants, caramelizing apples for a tarte tatin, and so forth. The
210 preps have 3200 step-by-step photos. Basic chapters and sections deal with crème
patisserie, pate a choux, chocolate ganache, and decorations with sauces and syrups.

 

--MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY AT HOME (Firefly Books, 2013, 240 pages, $29.95
CAN hard covers) is by Jozef Youssef, who has worked in several places in the UK and
trained in molecular gastronomy with Heston Blumenthal. He also manages
www.kitchen-theory.com. He uses food science to being flavour, texture, taste and
aromas to recipes in new ways. And now you can do it yourself (DIY) at home! Step-by-
step photos demonstrate techniques, although sometimes you'll need some close
domestic equivalent. Sous-vide, transglutaminase (meat glue), dehydration, centrifugal
cooking, evaporation, rapid infusion, adding smoke, spherification, carbonation, foams
and airs, the hydrocolloids of gels and gums, liquid nitrogen – they are all here, along
with food pairing and inspired avant-garde presentations. The actually does take culinary
physics out of the lab and into the kitchen.

 

--THE MAGNIFICENT CHICKEN (Chronicle Books, 2013, $28 CAN hard covers) is a
revised and expanded version of a 2001 book, photographed by Tamara Staples. These
are championship chickens, with more than 40 breeds here and an informative text. The
introduction explores the finer points of poultry shows and chicken portraiture.

 

--FEAST; generous vegetarian meals for any eater and every appetite (Chronicle Books,
2013, 288 pages, $39.99 CAN hard covers) is by Sarah Copeland, once  a lead recipe
developer for the Food Network and now a major US cookbook author and food writer.
It's a good book for a variety of lifestyles: transitioning, adding more meatless dishes to
the diet, giving up red meat, moving on from poultry and seafood. The 140 preps are
arranged by meal occasion of breakfast, brunch, sammies, meals in a bowl, and sweets.
She convinced me that I could begin my day with a kale shake, although I'd rather try
roast broccoli and chickpeas with ricotta and kale, or a caprese for four seasons.

 

--DANIEL (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013, 396 pages, $60 CAN hard covers) is the
long awaited book by Daniel Boulud, the multiple Bear Award winner who runs 14
restaurants (7 in New York City) including one in Toronto. There are essays here by food
writer Bill Buford on preparing over a dozen recipes. The whole book contains over 100
recipes with Boulud's insights: these are preps from his restaurants and the photos are for
the professional platings. Each prep actually has two recipes: one as used in the resto and
another for making at home. He's got four seasonal menus based on his fave French
regions: Alsace, Normandy, Provence, and Lyon. For this book, they've called in the
heavy duty top log rollers of Keller, Ripert, Pepin, Vongerichten, and Guerard. What, no
Batali?

 

…and gift books for the drinker? Try –

 

--diffordsguide GIN: the bartender's bible (Firefly Books, 2013, 350 pages, $39.95 CAN
hard covers) is by Simon Difford, an award-winning spirits writer and consultant. Here
he spotlights the craft gin distilling movement, as well as the larger boys. It is the story of
juniper infusion, the travel from Netherlands to London, the penny gin, the G & T, the G
& French and G & It. There's a chapter on how it is made, 18 profiles of the big
distilleries (e.g. Tanqueray and their Rangpur), some classic gin cocktail recipes, and a
directory/tasting notes for about 175 gin brands from around the world (BC's Victoria
Gin is here).

 

--BORDEAUX LEGENDS (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2013, 288 pages, $62 CAN hard
covers) is by Jane Anson, a wine writer and educator specializing in Bordeaux wines. It's
a 500 year history of the five First Growths as listed in 1855 – Chateaux Haut-Brion,
Lafite Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, and then Mouton Rothschild more than a century
later. There are notes on how the wines are produced and sold in the marketplace. And it
is also loaded with anecdotes, historical data, and great photos (from Isabelle
Rozenbaum).

 

--WORLD BEER (DK Books, 2013, 300 pages, $40 CAN hard covers) details over 100
different styles of beer from 800 craft and classic breweries with nearly 1000 different
brews. It covers Unibroue's Maudite and Vancouver Island Brewery's Hermannator Ice
Bock through to Belgian Achel beers. It's arranged alphabetically by brewery, with great
thumbnail sketches and 750 full-colour photos (mostly label shots). Canadian breweries
are limited to just 33.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Cavas La Capilla Mendoza wine tasting, TOCA, Nov 17/13

The Date and Time:  Sunday, November 17, 2013  7Pm to 9PM

The Event: a tasting of Cavas La Capilla Mendoza wines

The Venue: TOCA

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: the wines are available from the agent, CTIL Fine Wines and Spirits (www.ctilwinesandspirits.com)

The Quote/Background: Lorena Meco, Commercial Director of Tradearg, led the tasting, along with Hector Scarsi, company winemaker, and Brijesh Patel from the agency. Noel Gallardo, export manager for Capilla, was also present, giving us a steady stream of facts and figures and prices. Capilla calls itself a boutique winery, with just over a 50,000 case production. Lately, it has been seeking export markets. Its Penitente Malbec won best wine at Intervin, over 1400 other wines.

The Wines: We tasted a range of Malbecs, skipping one entry level, plus a white wine for refresher.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cavas La Capilla Aldebaran Torrontes 2012 San Carlos Uco, $19 – slightly oily

-Cavas La Capilla Penitente Malbec 2011 Lujan de Cuyo/San Carlos, $43.95 – creamy, long length, ready

-Cavas La Capilla Templum Malbec Gran Reserva 2010 Altamira, $74.75 – very Euro, Bordeaux-like, one more year but approachable now.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cavas La Capilla Aldebaran Malbec 2012 Lujan de Cuyo, $24

 

The Food: an international and Quebec cheese plate and a charcuterie plate, garnished with savouries veggies and dried/fresh fruit, plus breads.

The Downside: I had just eaten dinner, and was assured that crackers were on offer, so I was surprised at all the food! I know, I know – I didn't have to eat it. My fault.

The Upside: a chance to taste some really good higher end Argentine wines.

The Contact Person: lorena@tradearg.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

The Event: 19th Annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, Toronto, Nov 14/13

The Date and Time: Thursday, November 14, 2013 6Pm to 10PM

The Event: 19^th Annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo

The Venue: Metro Convention Centre

The Target Audience: VIPs night, wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: I did some wines, most are available via LCBO. There was also a great Casa Toscana olive oil/balsamic tasting.

The Quote/Background: each booth had its own system of displaying its wares, so it was a bit chaotic and noisy. I did not visit every booth, of course, but Select and Trialto were the better ones for notes about the wines. Everybody should use business cards. Other booths visited included Strewn, AltoVino, New Zealand, MCO, Food Wines Portugal, Pontos Imports.

 

The Wines: From AltoVino as private orders, I tasted Farr Rising Chardonnay 2009 (3.5 stars), Key Brothers Block 6 Shiraz 2008 ($99.50, 3.5 stars), By Farr Shiraz 2009, $79, 3.5 stars), J.J. Ahn Regional Shiraz/Cabernet 2010 ($21.95, 3.5 stars), Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2012 ($35, 3.5 stars), Rob Dolan True Colours CSM 2012 ($25, 4 stars), Kalleske Shiraz 2010 ($109, 3 stars) and Kalleske Shiraz Pirathan 2012 ($29, 3 stars). From Pontos Imports, Luna Sicana Fiano 2012 ($25, 3.5 stars), Luna Sicana Catarrato 2012 ($25, 3.5 stars), Luna Sicana Luna Sol NV ($40, 3 stars), Mastrogiureto Calabria Rosso 2010 ($30, 4 stars), Techni Alipiac 2008 ($25, 3.5 stars), plus two Greek wines with winery names written in Greek: a Roditis 2012 ($18, 3 stars) and a Assyrtiko Drama Idisma Drios 2011 (3 stars).

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Strewn Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2012 VQA, $12.95 – RWF Award

-Hidden Bench Chardonnay 2011 VQA, $28.95 Vintages

-Pinho Real Vinho Verde 2012, $11.80 FWP

-Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Chile, $21.95 LCBO

-Catena Malbec 2011 Mendoza, $19.95 Vintages

-Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $19.96 Vintages

-Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Calcaire 2011 Alsace, $24.95 Vintages

-Herve Seguin Pouilly Fume 2011 Loire, $19.75 Vintages

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Hidden Bench Riesling 2012 VQA, $23.95 Vintages

-Hidden Bench Terroir Cache 2009 VQA Beamsville, $32.95 Vintages

-Strewn Cottage Block Sauvignon Blanc/Riesling VQA Niagara 2012, $12.95 LCBO

-Strewn Two Vines White Riesling/Gewurztraminer VQA NOTL, $11.95 LCBO

-Esporao Red Reserva 2010 FWP

-Oyster Bay Wines Sparkling Cuvee Brut NV, $21.95 Vintages

-Oyster Bay Wines Chardonnay 2012, $18.95 Vintages

-Saint Clair Family Estate Vicar's Choice Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $15.95 LCBO

-Vina Maipo Vitral Reserva Chardonnay Casablanca, $13.95 LCBO

-Trivento Fair Trade Malbec Argentina, $11.95 LCBO

-Ebeia Roble Tempranillo Ribera del Duero, $14.95 LCBO

-Project Paso Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, $17.95 LCBO

-Mendel Malbec 2010 Mendoza, $24.95 Vintages

-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $22.95 Vintages

-Chateau Pipeau Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010, $35.95 Vintages

-Chateau L'Orangerie Bordeaux 2011, $13.95 Vintages

-Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese 2011 Mosel, $25.95 Vintages

-Michel Delhommeau Harmonie Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2011, $13.95 Vintages

-Vina San Esteban In Situ Signature Chardonnay-Viognier Aconcagua 2011, $15.95 LCBO

-Vignerons de Buzet red Badge Merlot/CabSauv 2010, $12.95 LCBO

-Vina San Esteban In Situ Winemakers Selection Carmenere Aconcagua 2010, $13.95 Vintages

-Chateau Pineraie Cahors 2009, $15.95 Vintages

-Dornier Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot South Africa 2010, $16.95 Vintages

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Strewn Terroir Sauvignon Blanc 2012 VQA, $18.95

-Esporao Alandra White 2012, $8.05 LCBO

-Esporao Alandra Red 2012, $7.255 LCBO

-Brancott Estate Letter Series B Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $19.95 LCBO

-Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2012, $16.95 LCBO

-Firesteed Pinot Gris Oregon, $17.80 LCBO

-Asio Otus Red Blend Cab/Merlot/Syrah Italy. $13.95 LCBO

-Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon California, $19.95 LCBO

-Lodez Chardonnay-Viognier France, $12.65 LCBO

-Montresor Amarone della Valpolicella, $35.60 Vintages

 

The Food: I sampled some free junk food for I was hungry and shameless.

The Downside: too dim, too noisy, but it was opening night.

The Upside: a chance to met old friends on the floor and behind the booths.

The Contact Person: Christopher.waters@sunmedia.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com