Fw: * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

COMPLETE WINE SELECTOR; how to choose the right wine every time
(Firefly Books, 2013, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-225-9, $24.965 CAN
paper covers) is by Katherine Cole, wine columnist for The Oregonian
newspaper in Portland and a professional journalist. It is a colourful
book, well-illustrated, that takes the novice through the basics of
wine making and wine selection. However, despite what she says, it
would be useful to have quiz-show memories: remembering what you tasted
is preparation for retention of wine knowledge. She's got it all
organized, with directory-style, bulleted, decision-trees and flow
charts. It works if you have this kind of mind. Like the popular Dummy
books, there is a factor of ten: the introduction to 10 wine styles, 20
greatest wine shops in the world, 10 top sommeliers and chefs tell us
their fave food and wine matches, top 10 dos and don'ts in wine
storage, 10 most common wine faults, and more. Just memorize; nothing
wrong with that. Actually, the 10 wine styles have been around for
years: they were originally cast as six for table wines (3 for white, 3
for reds, sort of light-medium-full for each colour). She's added sweet
wines (mostly white), sparklers, rose, and fortified. It's a good book,
there is lots packed into it. But it is still memory.
Audience and level of use: beginners.
Some interesting or unusual facts: the natural match for Argentine
Malbec is churrascuria cuisine.
The downside to this book: wine tasting is still memory-based.
The upside to this book: good statement of all the factors involved in
wine knowledge.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Fw: * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *: The Heart of the Plate

THE HEART OF THE PLATE; vegetarian recipes for a new generation
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013; distr. T. Allen, 456 pages, ISBN 978-
0-547-57159-1, $34.99 US hard covers) is by Mollie Katzen, renowned
cookbook author and co-founder of the Moosewood Restaurant in Ithaca
New York. It is her 12th book, yet still needed (in the publisher's
eyes) some heavy duty log rolling from such as Jamie Oliver, Andrew
Weil, Nigella, Batali, Pepin and Anna Thomas. Of course, her 200 preps
here will be an instant hit anyway, and I am not taking anything away
from that. About 10 per cent of the recipes have come from her other
books. These are the basic veggie dishes, many of which were once
heavily laden with cream, butter and eggs. Now, half the book is vegan
and the rest are lighter, reflecting a "new generation" and its
lifestyle. It is traditionally arranged, from soups through desserts,
along with the usual photos and watercolours that Katzen has employed
before. There are some pantry notes and a series of both vegetarian
menus (20) and vegan menus (15) with page references to the preps. The
stew dishes come with appropriate starches (called "accessories") such
as the curried cauliflower stew with onion pakoras, or the Peruvian
potato-bean stew with quinoa-speckled buttermilk corn cakes. Some of
these are gluten-free, or at least wheat-free, but more would be needed
(or variations). There is good advice here, along with good detail in
the techniques. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: vegetarians, most vegans, beginners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: couscous with dates,
pistachios, pine nuts and parsley; forbidden rice with beluga lentils
and mushrooms; asparagus puff pastry tart; orange-olive-fig saladita;
mixed mushroom ragout.
The downside to this book: I wished that there were some gluten-free
alternatives for the accessories and other preps.
The upside to this book: great illustrations
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

NON-FICTION AND FICTION SIDE OF FOOD/WINE BOOKS in 2013

For the more literate person, there are the histories and "memoirs" of writers, chefs,
and wine people. Some have called these memoirs "creative non-fiction", many with
embellishments and gilding. And most of them suffer from a lack of indexing, which
makes it difficult to find what the writer said about another person or subject. But this
also avoids the potential for lawsuits and disjointed noses. Nevertheless, they are
rewarding to read. Who cares about poetic license? Here then are some that stood out
from last year's run, and any of them would make great gifts for the reader. Here we go,
in no particular order…

 

--MAST BROTHERS CHOCOLATE (Little, Brown, 2013, 276 pages, $44 CAN hard
covers) is by Rick and Michael Mast. These are stories of the bean-to-bar craft
chocolatiers. They do small batch  roasting for leading chefs (Keller, Waters, Ducasse).
The book is part memoir, part cookbook, with classic desserts of chocolate cookies,
brownies, whoopee pies, chocolate cakes, and savouries (scallops and cacao nibs, cocoa
coq au vin).

 

--DINNER WITH MR. DARCY (CICO Books, 2013, 160 pages, $29.95 CAN hard
covers) is by Pen Vogler, who has recreated many historical recipes for the BBC and
Penguin Press. These are recipes inspired by the novels and letters of Jan Austen – they
are sure to be winners, especially with any Janeite. As the book says, Austen used food in
her novels as a way of showing kindliness among neighbours, as part of the dynamics of
family life, and for comic effect. Preps here have been updated, and there are sidebars on
Regency food. There is a breakfast at Northanger Abbey (a great b & b place!), Mrs.
Bennet's dinner for Bingley and Darcy, plus more suppers, teas, picnics, Christmas food,
and even preserves and drinks.

 

--IN THE KITCHEN WITH ALAIN PASSARD (Chronicle Books, 2013, 96 pages,
$19.95 CAN hard covers) has been written and illustrated by Christopher Blain (a 
graphic novelist), with some 15 recipes by Passard who runs the 3-star Michelin
L'Arpege in Paris (he removed meat from his menu in 2001). It's a "graphic novel" with
hundreds of panel illustrations, inside the world and mind of a Master Chef. It's an
insider's look at the creative process, first published in France in 2011. Try squab dragee
with mead or potato paillase with sage and garlic.

 

--BUT MAMA ALWAYS PUT VODKA IN HER SANGRIA! (St. Martin's Press, 2013,
272 pages, $29.99 CAN hard covers) is by Julia Reed, who writes about the South in
food and drink.  This is a collection of 28 essays (with an index!) celebrating eating,
drinking, and making merry. It's got 100 recipes plus engaging anecdotes and stories. She
talks about the quenelle at La Cote Basque in NYC, the steaks of Alkaide in Madrid, the
southern garden, Afghanistan, the Mississippi Delta, Florida Gulf Coast, Paris, the gin
factories, and other stories dealing with her father and her mother.

 

--WHERE AM I EATING? (Wiley, 2013, 279 pages, $27.95 CAN hard covers) is a
travelogue undertaken to uncover the realities of the global food economy. Kelsey
Timmerman writes by product – the coffee of Columbia, the chocolate of the Ivory Coast,
the bananas of Costa Rica, lobster, apple juice of Michigan (but not of Canada) in which
farmers in China have cornered the apple juice market. Much of the book deals with
labour issues, such as Fair Trade practices, as he details what it is actually like to work in
that particular country's agricultural industry.

 

--THE CASSOULET SAVED OUR MARRIAGE (Roost Books, 2013; distr. Random
House Canada, 255 pages, $19.95 CAN hard covers) has been edited by Caroline Grunt
and Lisa Harper. These are "true tales of food, family, and how we learn to eat". 29
essays go over our relationship to food, with 28 uncomplicated recipes: foods dealing
with kosher, junk, soul, busy weeknights, holiday feasts, vegetarian table.

 

--IN MEAT WE TRUST (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 368 pages, $33 CAN hard
covers) is by food and beverage historian Maureen Ogle. It's a history of meat-eating in
America (nothing on Canada that I could glean), with a concentration on lifestyle and
culture. She clearly shows that concerns about agribusiness and safety are not new. And
while the average Euro had meat once a week, the average American ate 200 pounds a
year. The Colonial period gives way to the 19th century meat packers (Swift, Armour)
later joined by Tyson, Cargill and ConAgra. Cattle drives, feedlots, Chicago – it is all
here. Strangely, I didn't see any references to "killing floor".

 

--POOR MAN'S FEAST (Chronicle Books, 2013, 287 pages, $32 CAN hard covers) is
by Elissa Altman. The publisher describes it as "a love story of comfort, desire, and the
art of simple cooking". It's a series of witty thoughts with 26 preps. 30 different topics
have been culled from her blog poormansfeast.com, which won a Beard Award in 2012
for blogging. She has also written widely about food in many print articles. Endorsement
also comes from Mollie Wizenberg and Deborah Madison.

 

--A SUITCASE AND A SPATULA (Ryland Peters & Small, 2013, 144 pages, $28.95
CAN hard covers) is by Tori Haschka, a travel and food blogger (eatori.com). She
experiences latte banana bread in Sydney and sangria prawns in Estoril, not to mention
sardines with fennel and Campari in Venice. Hey, she's even been to Menton! So these
are recipes and stories from around the world, like a scrap book with both long and short
essays.

 

--ONE SOUFFLE AT A TIME (St. Martin's Press, 2013, 320 pages, $31.99 CAN hard
covers) is by Anne Willan, founder of La Varenne (1975). It is mostly her autobiography
as she grappled with the smug closed world of French cuisine, but it is also the story of
her comperes: Julia Child, James Beard, Simone Beck, Craig Claiborne and Richard
Olney. She opens her memoir with a listing of 9 "things I've smuggled in my suitcase".
Over the years she's written books and done PBS food shows. Here she also adds 50 of
her favourite recipes.

 

…and some worthwhile novels:

 

--SOY SAUCE FOR BEGINNERS (New Harvest, 2013, 304 pages, $28.95 hard covers)
is by Kirsten Chen, a Steinbeck Fellow and Pushcart nominee. It's the story of Gretchen
Lin who leaves San Francisco for her childhood home in Singapore. But in order to avoid
a floundering marriage in Frisco by flight, she comes back to her mother's drinking
problem and the machinations of her father's artisanal soy sauce business. It's a definite
relationship book with some resolution.

 

--TOMORROW THERE WILL BE APRICOTS (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 320
pages, $27.95 hard cover) is by Jessica Soffer. It's the story of a woman who pores over
cookbooks, re-connecting with her chef mother via recipes and food. Some preps are
here, such as masgouf (carp dish from Mesopotamia).

 

--PINOT ENVY; murder, mayhem, and mystery in Napa (Bancroft Press, 2013, 208
pages, $21.95 hardbound) is by Edward Finstein, my long-time colleague in the Wine
Writers' Circle of Canada. He's at www.winedoctor.ca where he dispenses wine
knowledge. Here, in his first novel, he is applying some of that skill in tracking down, by
investigatory work, rare artifacts in the wine business through his op, Woody Robins,
who practices in the Napa. Woody's been hired by a wealthy collector to track down a
stolen double-magnum red Burgundy that once belonged to Napoleon. He works with a
girlfriend and his Aunt Sadie, as well as a friend within the 'Frisco police department.
There are the usual scandals and murders along the way. It is well-plotted and moves
from page-to-page. It should certainly appeal to those mysteries' fans who are tired of
twee mysteries dealing with cooking subplots: here's a hard-driven, hard-bitten story in
the roman noir style, so much so, that it should actually be called PINOT NOIR (but I
guess that name has already been taken by a grape).

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or
classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-
editions"...

 

22. THE FONDUE BIBLE; the 200 best recipes (Robert Rose, 2007, 2013,
269 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0166-5, $27.95 CAN paper covers) is by Ilana
Simon, who has written other cookbooks for Robert Rose. In 2001, she
produced 125 recipes for fondues, and then in 2007 it became this book
of 200 preps. The latest book is an updating (lower calories and fat)
plus additional colour photos. It's basic, of course, but the resulting
food is healthier. The arrangement is by type: cheese, oil, broth, and
dessert, with a chapter on dips and sauces. Try the traditional
emmentaler-gruyere fondue, or a Dijon lamb, or paella fondue, and, of
course, the world famous chocolate fondue. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements in
separate columns, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

23. DIFFORDSGUIDE COCKTAILS; THE BARTENDERS BIBLE, 11th ed. (Firefly
Books, 2013, 502 pages, ISBN  978-177085-222-8, $49.95 hard covers) is
by Simon Difford, an award-winning spirits writer in the UK. It was
last out, as a tenth edition, just in 2012. It is exceedingly useful
for its 3000 recipes, with many new ones since the last edition. Many
recipes have been modified one way or another: different brands are
used, different proportions adapt to modern times, recipes are simpler.
There are four basic ways to mix a cocktail: stir, shake, blend, and
build, and there is an order in which to mix the ingredients. His preps
show those things, along with appropriate garnishes, a correct glass,
and information on origins. He has a listing of 14 key alcoholic
ingredients for 450 cocktails and 28 essential staples. Most of the
book is, of course, an A – Z dictionary style arrangement of the
cocktails, using the best known name of the drink. There is no real
ingredient index, but there is a printed "partner index" which
highlights some suppliers used as ingredients. He has no overall print
index to, say, rye or rum. You can always search cocktail recipes by
ingredients at Diffordsguide.com. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

24. THE HEALING HERBS COOKBOOK (Robert Rose, 1999, 2013, 192 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7788-0004-0, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Pat Crocker,
award-winning cookbook author and professional home economist. It was
originally published in 1999, but here it has been updated, extended,
and revised. Her book is about incorporating the health benefits of
herbs into our daily food, although you might have to eat a lot of it.
There are 115 vegetarian recipes here, covering the gamut from
starters, soups, salads, mains, pasta, desserts, beverages and
condiments. There is also a glossary and herb-specific entries in the
recipe index. Try kamut with sauteed summer veggies, cauliflower with
split peas, parsnip veggie cakes, and veggie sushi. Unfortunately,
while the herb sources listing has been updated, the bibliography
hasn't. There is not a single book that has been published since 1997.
Really? Preparations have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois
and metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

25. PASTRY; a master class for everyone, in 150 photos and 50 recipes
(Chronicle Books, 2012, 2013, 223 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1549-8, $30 US
hard covers) is by Richard Bertinet, owner of an eponymous cooking
school in the UK. His first book was awarded a Beard for Baking and
Desserts. This current book was first published in the UK by Ebury
Random House in 2012, and this is the North American release. Here is
the art of hand made pastry, embracing salted, sweet, puff and choux.
There is step-by-step photography and weight measurements for all
pastry ingredients. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but unfortunately there is no table of metric
equivalents. You will end up having to weight such things as 1.2 ounces
of water or 8.9 ounces of flour, but still deal with tablespoons and
fractions elsewhere. That's the beauty of metric: great scaling and
proportional numbers. Everything works well, but you MUST pay attention
to the numbers. Quality/price rating: 81.

 

 

 

26. THE 250 BEST COOKIE RECIPES (Robert Rose, 2001, 2013, 192 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7788-0468-0 $19.95 CAN soft covers) and

 

27. THE 250 BEST BROWNIES BARS AND SQUARES (Robert Rose, 2001, 2013,
192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0467-3, $19.95 CAN paper covers)

 

are both by Esther Brody who has developed thousands of baking recipes
over the years. Other best selling books have dealt with "250 Best
Muffins" and "250 Best Cobblers, Cupcakes and Bread Puddings". These
current books came out in 2001 and then got reworked together in 2004,
and then split apart again in 2013. Both are straightforward
collections. The cookie book includes separate chapters for drop
cookies, hand shapes, sliced, biscotti, no-bake, and holiday. The other
book has separate chapters for chocolate bars and squares, coconut bars
and squares, fruit bars and squares, brownies, no-bakes, frostings, and
more. Most preps call for all-purpose flour, but there are some with
oats. Unfortunately, there was a lost opportunity to stick in a few
gluten-free baking recipes. These would have been exceptionally useful
since baked desserts are the best, most successful use of gluten-free
flours.  Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements by columns, but there is no table of
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

28, CANADIAN LIVING: 150 ESSENTIAL BEEF, PORK & LAMB RECIPES
(Transcontinental Books, 2013; distr. Random House Canada, 270 pages,
ISBN 978-0-9877474-5-7, $29.95 paper covers) is from the Test Kitchen
of Canadian Living Magazine. Here are dishes, mostly culled from the
monthly pages, which the publisher says "carnivores crave". So we have
a collection intended for family dinners, BBQs, and some entertaining,
ranging from stews and burgers through to roasts and steaks. But lamb
has only 27 preps, it does not sell as well as beef or pork. And the
Lazy Shepherd's Pie is really a Lazy Cottage Pie, since it calls for
all beef and no lamb at all. Lamb is the only meat in Shepherd's Pie
(why do you think it is called shepherd's pie????). Arrangement is by
type of cut. If you want all the recipes for one kind of animal, you'll
have to look up "lamb", "pork" or "beef" separately in the index. Try
pork katsu, cilantro lamb racks, lamb korma, Mexican slow-roasted leg
of lamb, and Spanish-style lamb kebabs.  Preparations have their
ingredients listed mostly in avoirdupois measurements with no metric,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

29. THE ECZEMA DIET; discover how to stop & prevent the itch of eczema
through diet & nutrition. (Robert Rose, 2012, 2013, 269 pages, ISBN
978-0-7788-0461-1, $24.95 CAN paper covers) is by Karen Fischer, health
researcher and nutrition author (The 8-week Healthy Skin Diet). Here
she takes on eczema. The book was originally published last year in
Australia, and has been revised for the North American market. The
number of people with eczema is rising and has tripled in recent years
throughout the developed world – now reaching about one in five. Modern
medicine provides temporary and topical relief, but Fischer believes
that lifestyle changes in environment and diet are necessary for a
"cure". She's got lots of research and anecdotal evidence, charts,
graphs, tables, and the like. There is basic info on healthy skins, how
the eczema diet works, how to promote a healthy liver, top foods,
recipes, and more. Plus the 50 or so recipes. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

30. 125 BEST INDOOR GRILL RECIPES (Robert Rose, 2004, 189 pages, ISBN
978-0-7788-0102-3, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Ilana Simon. It is
now back in print: a basic primer on using indoor grills, mostly
electrical. It is loaded with techniques, ingredients, tools, charts
for internal cooking times, and the 125 recipes covering salads,
sandwiches, burgers, mains and sides, plus a few desserts. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Try Asian steak
noodle salad, grilled brie pockets, or orange sesame chicken.
Quality/price rating: 85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been
around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are
automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant
or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere,
doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network.
Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or
the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in
these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved.
Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or
recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be
related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are
American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients;
sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there
is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite
recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on
"demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of
the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes
to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food
writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books)
don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim
to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food
researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and
advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant
world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity
books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much
self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo
shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other
celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited,
they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

16. THE BEEKMAN 1802 HEIRLOOM DESSERT COOKBOOK (Rodale, 2013, 260
pages, ISBN 978-1-606961-573-4, $32.50 US) is by Brent Bridge and Josh
Kilmer-Purcell, founders of the lifestyle company Beckman 1802 in New
York. They focus on seasonal living, and have a show on TV and have
written other cookbooks. You can find them at beckman1802.com. Here the
boys present about 100 preps from the farm and garden, with some help
from Sandra Gluck. The book is seasonally arranged, from winter through
fall. This current book is a major accompaniment to their earlier The
Beckman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook. Classic preps here include buttermilk
pie with pecan crust, concord grape pie, sweet green tomato hand pies,
cardamom cake with coffee glaze, baked stone fruits with cannoli cream,
and lemon-toasted poppy seed cake. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

17. KEWL BITES (Rodale, 2013, 212 pages, ISBN 978-1-60961-510-9, $21.99
US paper covers) is by Reed Alexander, an 18-year old TV actor who
looks 13. He's the current spokesperson for the Clinton Foundation's
Alliance for a Healthier Generation. He's also part of Michelle Obama's
Let's Move initiative. He's a regular at food festivals, food TV shows,
and his own blog, kewlbites.com. So he's a natural as a cookbook
writer. There's some heavy duty log rolling from such as Bill Clinton
(but no Michelle Obama). It is a good book for youngsters in that this
is food that is both nutritious and easy for them to prepare, although
I'm not sure about eggplant or artichokes appealing to anybody under
25. Nevertheless, there are other concoctions here, along with a
rationale about why that food or dish is useful for any growing kid.
His faves are dark-chocolate banana marble bread, mini chicken parm
meatballs, and vegetable dumplings with lemongrass dipping sauce. The
arrangement is by type of dish (soup, salads, mains, pasta, sides,
sweets) opening with breakfast/brunch. I'm all for it if the youngsters
will not only eat it but also do their own cooking! Take it off to
college, folks.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

 

18. WORLD-CLASS SWEDISH COOKING; artisanal recipes from one of
Stockholm's most celebrated restaurants (Skyhorse Publishing, 2012,
2013, 318 pages, ISBN 978-1-62087-735-7, $27.95 US hard covers) is by
Bjorn Frantzen and Daniel Lindeberg, owners of Frantzen/Lindeberg, with
two Michelin stars and Best Swedish Restaurant award for 2012. Of
course there are lots of pix of the boys, their resto, menus, and food
items. There are also details on their cooking techniques and
philosophy of dining. The preps look at shellfish, fish, breads, dairy,
meat, pork, fowl, veggies and desserts. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is also a table of equivalents. Many recipes have no listed
ingredients, but they can be figured out, especially with a photo of a
plated dish beside it. There are two indexes: one to the recipes and
one to the ingredients. The adventuresome may want to try oven-baked
raspberry ice cream with licorice mousse, grouse baked in hay, confit
chin of cod (cod cheeks), or compressed watermelon and sorbet of xintai
cucumber. Cutting edge stuff, challenging at home.
Quality/price rating: 90.

 

19. THE SIMPLY RAW KICTHEN; plant-powered, gluten-free, and mostly raw
recipes for healthy living (Arsenal Pulp Press, 2013, 207 pages, ISBN
978-1-55152-505-1, $21.95 US paper covers) is by Natasha Kyssa, a
former model who became a vegan in 1990. She's adopted a raw lifestyle,
and now runs SimplyRaw Express in Ottawa (see also www.simplyraw.ca).
There's some impressive log rolling as well, from some such as Bif
Naked. Her latest book (an earlier one, The SimplyRaw Living Foods
Detox Manual, was published in 2009) promotes a whole-food, nutrient-
rich diet designed for optimal health. And she's had a quarter of a
century experience with this lifestyle. There are 134 recipes such as
taco verde, righteous brownies and caramel frosting, plus some cooked
vegan preps such as her family's borscht, mushroom goulash, and
Romanian cabbage rolls. The preps are coded as to contents, and
arranged in a standard format: beverages, breakfasts, soups, salads,
pates and dips, mains, and desserts. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements with some metric,
but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

20. MUG CAKES; 100 speedy microwave treats to satisfy your sweet tooth
(St. Martin's Griffin, 2013, 168 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-02658-3, $22.99
US paper covers) is by Leslie Bilderback, a California restaurant
pastry chef who has also written eight books in the Idiot's and
Everything series (while doing monthly food columns), and winning big
in a reality TV cooking show on the Food Network. Here she has
assembled 100 dessert ideas for a microwaved mug (=Mason jars). These
are small bites for singles or parties, individually tailored with
assorted toppings and frostings – or not. There are preps with alcohol
infusions, dietary needs, non-cakes (puddings, pies, cheesecakes). All
it takes is five minutes – yummy. The basics are covered in 10 pages,
and classic cakes are deconstructed: buttermilk mug cake, red velvet
mug cake, banana mug cake, strawberry shortmug cake, carrot mug cake,
oatmeal-raisin mug cake. These are followed by kids, adults (liquor),
chocolate, nuts, fruit, and non-cakes. Very much worth a look,
especially if you have a microwave. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

 

21. WORLD FOOD CAFÉ; quick and easy recipes from a vegetarian journey
(Frances Lincoln Ltd, 207 pages, ISBN 978-0-7112-3296-9, $29.95 US hard
covers) is by Chris and Carolyn Caldicott, who both once owned the
World Food Café in Covent Garden, cooking vegetarian food from recipes
uncovered in their travels. They've also written other veggie books for
Francis Lincoln, a UK publisher, including World Food Cafe Quick and
Easy in 2006. Thus, this is a follow-up book. In their travels, author
Chris photographs while he and Carolyn collect tales and preps from
home kitchens, street stalls, restos, and roadside cafes. It's arranged
by country, beginning with Bangladesh and ending with Vietnam (with
such rarities as Bhutan, Burma, Lapland and Namibia). The 100 recipes
here include such as spiced veldt bread, caramelized rum and coconut
pina assadas, crispy rice cakes, and sweet mung bean che. For
vegetarians, this book is well worth a side-trip to enjoyment.
All recipes are for four greedy or six modest portions unless otherwise
stated. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *: Postmodern Winemaking

POSTMODERN WINEMAKING; rethinking the modern science of an ancient
craft (University of California Press, 2013, 344 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-
27519-5, $34.95 US hard covers) is by Clark Smith, world renowned
winemaker for Diamond Ridge vineyards and WineSmith Cellars. He's a
teacher and wine consultant, specializing in wine chemistry
fundamentals. His column "The Postmodern Winemaker" has appeared in
Wines & Vines since 2009. From the Preface, "The book consists of
twenty-five chapters, two appendices, and a glossary. It is largely
based…on material compiled from my monthly columns in Wines and Vines
magazine and articles published by AppellationAmerica.com and Practical
Vineyard and Winery magazine, reworked to include a lay audience."
Smith is a leading innovator in red wine production techniques. He says
that great wines demand a personal and creative engagement with many
elements of the process. So he shows us this process, along with
profiles of others doing the same thing. Smith is a polarizing figure
in the California wine world, but the book is eminently readable as he
runs through the process of oaking, vineyard management, oxygenation,
minerality, brettanomyces, and other tools available to the winemaker.
Quality/price rating: 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

COOKBOOKS FOR THE FAMILY AT CHRISTMAS

Family values Christmas gift cook books would have to include:

 

--FAMILY COOKBOOK (DK Books, 2013, 496 pages, $35 CAN hard covers) is an in-
house production from DK Books, with 700 easy-to-prepare recipes with children and
adults in mind. There are over 1000 full-colour photos here. Each prep has a nutritional
breakdown.

 

--THE KINFOLK TABLE (Artisan Books, 2013, 368 pages, $43.95 CAN hard covers) is
from Kinfolk magazine. It's a collection of some 100 recipes designed for unfussy dining
for small gatherings. It is a bit rustic, but then all the preps come from tastemakers in
small towns throughout North America and Europe. These are reliable dishes for
memorable dining. Every meal (including breakfast) and every season is covered; there
are also menus such as winter menu featuring roast chicken, greens and potato soup, and
focaccia.

 

--THE PREPPY COOKBOOK (New Harvest, 2013, 256 pages, $30 CAN) seems to be a
perfect gift book, written by Christine E. Nunn. These are the classic recipes for the
modern prep. This is the preppy kitchen, with a pantry and desire for summer living at the
cottage with family and friends, sports, the European tour, the brunches, cocktail parties,
showers, holidays, and entertaining. Typical recipes include pissaladiere and lobster rolls.
Don't forget the preppy rules at the table: martinis are never made with vodka; tea
sandwiches have no crusts; always pick up asparagus with your fingers.

 

--BOLD (Workman Publishing, 2013, 410 pages, $24.95 CAN soft covers) is by Susanna
Hoffman and Victoria Wise, both chefs at Chez Panisse in its early days. This is a
cookbook collection of some 250 preps with big flavours, covering all courses from apps
to desserts. It's a global fusion meld of flavours, ingredients, and warming meals for
home. Both chefs have collaborated before, and have 330,000 copies of two books in
print. This is family comfort food: slow-roasted braises and roasts, steaks, hearty soups,
platters of veggies, heavy pastas and grains, plus indigenous wild game and rich desserts.
Sidebars cover advice and tips, people and places, food history, and general trivia.

 

--THE VINTAGE TEA PARTY YEAR (Mitchell Beazley, 2013, 304 pages, $32.99
CAN hard covers) is by Angel Adoree, the creative director of the project. These are how
tea parties used to be – let's bring them back!! You can wave the Union Jack at a New
Year's Eve tea party, a children's tea party, a tea for two affair (e.g. Valentine Day), a
bachelorette party, wedding or baby shower, a street tea party, and Christmas. A dozen
offerings in all. For each event, there is a selection of best foods, drinks and décor. But of
course you can mix and match recipes, craft projects and hair styles – whatever. She
concludes with how to create a sequin snood.

 

--COOKING SLOW (Chronicle Books, 2013, 224 pages, $41 CAN hard covers) is by
Andrew Schloss, a food author and former president of IACP. This is home cooking –
recipes for slowing down and cooking more, emphasizing braising, roasting, grilling,
baking, frying and steaming. He also uses a slow cooker and sous vide techniques. There
are great photos for most dishes: family smoked pork chops, greens and beans steamed in
beer and bacon, and osso buco with apples and bourbon.

 

--ROSE MURRAY'S CANADIAN CHRISTMAS COOKING. 2d ed. (Whitecap Books,
2013, 162 pages, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is an old favourite originally published by
Lorimer in 1979 as The Christmas Cookbook. Of course, Murray has updated and
regraded the preps, deleted and added recipes with a collection of classics and modern
alternatives. There are a lot of baking items here, and there are also full menus for themed
feasts on Christmas Day and a New Year's menu (the only thing missing is a menu for a
Birthday Celebration on Christmas Day – my wife would love it). Historical notes have
been added here and there.

 

--ONE GOOD DISH (Artisan Books, 2013, 256 pages, $30 CAN hard covers) is by
David Tanis, food writer weekly with the New York Times (City Kitchen). Here he
emphasizes the pleasures of a simple meal: just great for cooking at home with
uncomplicated food. The book is an eclectic collection of his fave dishes, some meant for
two, others for a large crowd. But usually it is a one dish meal, such as spaghetti with
bread crumbs and pepper, or breaded eggplant cutlets, or south Indian cabbage with black
mustard seeds.

 

--THE SOUP & BREAD COOKBOOK (Rodale Books, 2013, 308 pages, $27.50 CAN
soft covers) is by Beatrice Ojakangas, author of 28 (!) cookbooks. She's written
everywhere, and specializes in Scandinavian cuisine. Here she has more than 100
seasonal pairings for simple meals. It's arranged by season, beginning with Spring. Each
meal is a combo of a soup and some (different) bread. So there is a May Day  celebration
soup with Scottish currant bannock, a walleye chowder with Parmesan garlic bread,  and
a chicken and dumpling soup with Dutch raisin bread. I like the suggestion of a bread for
each soup, but the adventuresome out there can easily mix and match.

 

--PIZZA BREAD & MORE (Taunton Press, 2013, 240 pages, $24 CAN soft covers) is
by Academia Barilla, an Italian centre for the preservation of Italian gastronomic culture.
Here they feature 100 or so recipes for focaccia, ciabatta, rolls, breadsticks, crackers,
calzones, and pizza (thin- and thick-crust). And of course you can do it all at home. Easy
to use with lots of Chef's Tips.

 

--ALICE EATS (Whitecap Books, 2013, 264 pages, $29.95 CAN hard covers) is by
Pierre A. Lamielle and Julie Van Rosendaal: he's a graphic designer and food
illustrator/cooking school grad; she's a food correspondent on CBC Radio One and food
editor of Parents Canada. Here is the full text of Alice's Adventures in Wonderland, as
well as appropriate recipes, photographs, and new illustrations. All the preps have been
inspired by the characters and events in the story: Mock turtle soup, Queen of Hearts' jam
tarts, Little girl bacon-and-egg-salad sandwiches. A great Holiday gift.

 

--MELT (Little, Brown, 2013, 212 pages, $33 CAN hard covers) is the art of macaroni
and cheese, as written by Stephanie Stiavetti and Garrett McCord. But they use fine
cheeses and unfamiliar pasta shapes. The 75 recipes are organized by style – stove-top,
salads, casseroles, sweets.  For example, there's Goat with edamame, fennel and rotini;
Pumpkin stuffed with fontina, sausage and mac; Blue cheese with squash, sage butter,
and rotini. This book is upscale all the way, but it might be a way for parents to join kids
at the dinner table with a serving of "mac and cheese". The book concludes with a cheese
compendium, a pasta guide, and a resources list.

 

--BEST OF ROSE REISMAN (Whitecap, 2013, 428 pages, $36 CAN hard covers) is a
collection of preps, largely drawn from her Metro newspaper columns and her Huffington
blogs. These are healthy recipes, celebrating her 20 years in the food writing business
(she's the author of 16 cookbooks, runs a catering business, and is a restaurant
consultant) . It also comes with advanced log rolling, which I felt wasn't needed for her.
Each prep has health tips and nutritional data. Most everything is also low-fat. A good
family resource.

 

SUBSET FOR FAMILY:  Your  HEALTH –

 

--THE SOUTH BEACH DIET GLUTEN SOLUTION COOKBOOK (Rodale Books,
2013, 262 pages, $31.99 CAN hard covers) offers 175 slimming and gluten-free recipes.
Every meal is covered. Arthur Agatston, MD, the author, is the originator of the South
Beach Diet. Many of the recipes take 30 minutes or less from start to finish. Not only is
gluten gone, but also most highly refined flours, sugars and saturated fats.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

 

 

THE BOOK OF SCHMALTZ; love song to a forgotten fat (Little, Brown,
2013, 179 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-25408-3, $25 US hard covers) is by
Michael Ruhlman, an author of food reference books (Ratio, Ruhlman's
Twenty, Charcuterie, The Elements of Cooking) and a co-author of Thomas
Keller, Eric Ripert, and Michael Symon. Still, even winning a Beard, he
gets heavy duty log rolling from Joan Nathan and Arthur Schwartz. The
book actually began as an iPad app, but Ruhlman was persuaded to also
set it in print. Schmaltz appears in all the recipes here; it is
rendered chicken fat flavoured with onion. Ruhlman believes in
flavours, so schmaltz is a first pick. There's a chapter on its
background and use in both classic Jewish cuisine (matzo ball soup,
kishke, kreplach) and in contemporary cuisines. He gives details about
differences in flavours and complexities in the use of schmaltz as
opposed to vegetable oils, butter, or olive oil. For the non-Jewish,
though, lard and bacon fat would be other considerations, but not in
this book. The schmaltz recipe is easy – six steps, ninety minutes, He
even has three chicken stock recipes. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks looking for flavours.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: schmaltz-roasted potatoes
with onion and rosemary; vichyssoise with gribenes and chives; chicken
rilettes; pate de foie gras en terrine with croutons; chicken with
schmalz dumplings; Parisienne gnocchi; savory brioche.
The downside to this book: too few recipes – the pages are full of
photos and large typefaces.
The upside to this book: great photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR DECEMBER 7, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR DECEMBER 7, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

Since Labour Day, I have tasted several hundred sparkling wines,
including repeats. Here are my best value CHAMPAGNES from today's
release of FIZZ, all rated 90 points or better

 

-Henriot Souverain Brut Champagne NV, +959643, $59.95. 90 points.
-Lanson Gold Medal Brut Champagne 2001, +722520, $79.95. 91 points.
-Moet & Chandron Grand Vintage Brut Champagne 2004, +69773, $83.95. 92
points.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

WHITE Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2011 Alsace, +224626, $17.95: killer
Gewurz, Gold Medalist, 13.5% ABV, MVC all the way, succulent,
concentrated, slight bitterness on finish. QPR: 91.

 

RED Small Gully The Formula Robert's Shiraz 2009 South Australia,
+142935, $18.95: deep, dark and mocha delicious, older vines at 40
years old, aged almost five years already, drink soonish. 15.9% ABV
will blow you away. QPR: 91.

 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

White Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa, +357723, $49.95 magnum

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Trapiche Finca La Palmas Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2011 Uco Valley
Mendoza, +355610, $16.95: "Gran Reserva" appeared on the label, not on
the website. Very good tropicality, light oaking for creaminess, off-
dry palate, 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
2. Bollig-Lehnert Piesporter Riesling Kabinett 2011 Mosel, +345736,
$16.95: a riesling beauty with lots of fruit, off-dry, soft and
engaging. 10% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Veramonte Primus The Blend 2011 Colchagua Valley, +712463, $19.95:
very Euro in style (30% carmenere, 30 syrah, 20 cabernet sauv, rest cab
franc and Malbec and petit verdot. Complex enough for a long, long
finish. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
2. Clos Malverne Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2011 Basket Pressed WO
Stellenbosch, +678433, $13.95: 60 cab/40 merlot blend, French and US
oak, but Bordeaux-like. 14% ABV, value in price. QPR: 89.
3. Chateau Bertinerie Merlot/Cabernet 2009 Cotes de Bordeaux-Blaye,
+244640, $18.95: good stuffing, ready now, merlot based (60%) with cab
sauv (30) and cab franc (10). 13.5% ABV satisfied. QPR: 89.
4. Thevenet & Fils Byssieres Les Clos Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2011,
+356733, $17.95: value-packed, very compact red burgundy, affordable,
13% ABV. Bronze medal – but just about every wine is bronze, so why the
sticker? QPR: 89.
5. Cave de Roquebrun Les Fiefs d'Aupenac 2011 Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun,
+354183, $19.95: Gold Medalist, has aged nicely in two years, 14% ABV,
garrigue and oak dominate but tempered by fruit. QPR: 89.
6. Villa Medoro Rosso del Duca Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009, +357160,
$18.95: very warm, very North American appeal, 14% ABV. Concentrated
cherries, slight mocha. QPR: 89.
7. Luigi Righetti Campolieti Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore
2011, +695890, $17.95: the LCBO's "Ripasso of the month", QPR: 89.
8. Quinta dos Carvalhais Duque de Viseu Red 2009 Dao, +546309, $13.95:
a nifty little red that flies under the radar, using the grape
varieties used for Port to create a dry wine. Affordable, 13.5% ABV.
QPR: 89.
9. Beronia Reserva 2008 Rioja, +50203, $18.95: 18 months in both US and
French oak for fine crafting and storage of a really good Rioja, albeit
in a slightly new style (French oak and fruit). Good aging, great
price. QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Sperling Vineyards Old Vines Riesling 2011 VQA Okanagan, +361204,
$34 retail.
2. Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly Fume 2012, +358697, $26.95.
3. Cave Spring Estate Bottled Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Beamsville Bench,
+246561, $34.95.
4. Cave Spring Estate CSV Cabernet Franc 2008, VQA Beamsville Bench,
+72751, $24.95.
5. KWV The Mentors Canvas WO Coastal Region, +348839, $24.95.
6. Firesteed Cellars Citation Pinot Noir 2003 Oregon, +677146, $59.95.
7. Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz 2010 Barossa, +32227, $26.95.
8. Chateau Barde-Haut 2009 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe, +197244,
$57.85.
9. Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2011, +700922, $57.95.
10. Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +928028, $49.95.
11. Luce della Vite La Vite Lucente 2011 IGT Toscana, +747030, $34.95.
12. Pietranera Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +189761, $37.95.
13. Bod. Franco-Espanolas Rioja Bordon Gran Reserva 2004, +114454,
$24.95.
14. Valsacro Dioro 2005 Rioja, +345694, $32.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH --

--Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2008, $33.95 (500 mL),
+47209): intense Hungarian nectar, full of apricot, dried peach and
orange peel, tempered with caramelization. Long finish deserves foie
gras as a starter, or quality blue cheese as an ending. 11.5% ABV.
Hungarian Gold Medalist. Quality/price rating 93 points by Dean Tudor.

 

--Cavas La Capilla Aldebaran Torrontes 2012 San Carlos Uco, $20.45 from
CTIL Fine Wines (www.ctilwinesandspirits.com): lovely floral aromas
(honeysuckle, jasmine) and fruity flavours (apricot) on the entry,
followed by mid-palate marmalade/tangerine, some peach, and ending with
a citric finish, making it good for first courses as well as sipping.
Slightly unctuous concentration, 13.5% ABV. Now would be a good time to
make Torrontes the wine of Toronto!! Quality/Price rating is 90 points
by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Carmine Granata Malbec 2013 Mendoza, $ 14.95 from CTIL Fine Wines:
decent fruity wine with aromas of flowers arising from the Malbec, long
finish, chocolate and coffee, but soft fruity tannins on finish.
13.7% ABV. One of the Intervin Best Value Wines Under $15, and previous
vintages have won gold in Argentine competitions. Quality/Price rating
is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Carmine Granata Malbec Roble 2009 Gran Reserva Mendoza, $ 25.75 from
CTIL Fine Wines: a classy wine, serious, full-bodied and intense. Berry
fruit is plush and lush, with pie spices, espresso coffee notes, and a
mouth-filling finish of juice with some lingering acidity. Not yet
ready; I tasted it over a week. Lay this down in your cellar. 13.9%
ABV, French oak for a year, some dried fruit showing (prunes, figs).
Intervin Silver Medal. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor
of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Mevi San Gimignano Malbec Reserve 2011 Maipu Mendoza, $27.45 from
CTIL Fine Wines: another wine at 13.9% ABV, with storage for a year in
both French and US oak (mostly new). Fruity jammy, sweet tannins, mocha
tones, more dried fruits and raisins, spices. There is a lot going on
here; tasted over one week. Intervin Silver Medal. Quality/Price rating
is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Mevi San Gimignano Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007 Maipu Mendoza,
$27.45 from CTIL Fine Wines: Expect a hefty cab here – lots of both red
and black fruit (red and black currants), mocha (more as week
progressed), and promising spices. 14 months in French and US oak,
13.9% ABV, already aged six years but promises more. Opened and tasted
over a week. Intervin Silver. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean
Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Shinas Estate The Verdict Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Mildura Victoria,
$25.95 from CTIL Fine Wines: the Mediterranean climate continues here;
the hot and dry system produces superripe grapes. Dark, deep and plumy,
this typical Oz Cab has strong MVC. Needs to keep for awhile; I opened
it and tasted it over a week. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean
Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Shinas Estate The Guilty Shiraz 2010 Mildura Victoria, $25.95 from
CTIL Fine Wines: coming in at a whopping 15.5% ABV, this shiraz does
not mess around – expect ripe red fruit (cherries, strawbs) plus the
inevitable mocha tones. Juicy Lucy is one way to describe the wine.
Made from low-yielding vines dating back to 1898, and aged in older
French oak. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor
of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Shinas Estate The Innocent Viognier 2012 Mildura Victoria, $25.95
from CTIL Fine Wines: excellent viognier, off-dry mode with longer
length, with MVC apricots/melons/honey tones. Very ripe and succulent,
slightly baked character from heat, lower acid, viscous and unctuous,
almost grapey fruit. Better as a sipper than with food, but could be
useful for such as blue cheese, nuts, liver. 14.4% ABV, twist top.
Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Shinas Estate Sweet Justice Moscato 2012 Mildura Victoria, $20.95
from CTIL Fine Wines: done up as they do in Italy, light and lively,
and off-sweet grapey taste with a real sparkling character. Could be
mistaken for a Moscato d'Asti. Already two years old, but still fresh,
preserved by sparkle. Best at beginning or end of meal, especially with
a cake dessert. Heavy bottle for extra protection? Twist top, 7.1% ABV.
Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

--Artur & Luiza Ferro Cultural Aragonez 2010 Regional Alentejano,
$18.95 from CTIL Fine Wines: from 10 year old vines, fermented in
steel, some of it aged in French oak for 9 months, 14% ABV. Leafy,
tobacco tones, good body, little tannins, good concentration, food wine
in old Euro style. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of
Gothic Epicures.

 

=======================================================================

 

1. The Date and Time: Monday, November 4, 2013  11AM to 5PM
The Event: A Tasting of Wines from Italy, 18th edition in Toronto
The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: most everything is available via the normal
LCBO distribution programs, or by private order. There were a few
wineries seeking agents, with "unavailable" products for retail sale.
The Quote/Background: I usually enjoy this show when I do the
serendipity approach. This year I tasted just a few whites such as
moscato d'Asti at the end. I did not do consecutive tables: I went end
to end, getting a walk out of it and meeting new people.
The Wines: I did not try every wine, and retail prices were spotty in
their availability.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva di Costasera 2007,
$64.95 Con Authentic
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Mazzano 2007
-Ciu Ciu Offida Rosso 2006 Esperanto organic, $38.95 PO Le Sommelier
-Amastuola Puglia IGP Vignatorta Syrah 2010, $14 C&E Worldfinds
-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Riserva Rocche 2004 Profile
-Benedetti Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Croce del Gal 2006, $115
Tre Amici
-Bersano Vini Barolo Badarina 2008 Profile
-Bersano Vini Moscato d'Asti San Michele 2012 Profile
-Cononica Cerreto Chinati Classico Riserva 2008, $21.95 Frontier
-Cantine di Marco Salice Salentino Riserva 2008, United Stars
-Castorani Iarno Rosso Colline Pescaresi IGT 2009, $62  Vinexx
-Cesari Gerardo Amarone della Valpolicella Bosan 2005 Profile
-Cusumano NOA Sicilia IGP 2010  Family
-Latium Morini Amarone della Valpolicella Campo Leon 2009, BND Wines
-Manfredi Barbaresco Umberto Fiore 2008, $17 LCBO
-Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Tradizione 2010  Majestic
-Michele Satta Toscana IGT Cavaliere 2006 Majestic
-PWS Barolo Colarej Gemma 2008  Ruby
-Ruffino Brunello di Montalcino Greppone Mazzi 2007   Constellation
-Ruffino Toscana IGT Modua 2010  Constellation
-Luce Brunello di Monalcino 2008  Authentic
-Valentina Cubi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Morar 2006  Vino
Allegro
-Moscato d'Asti Castello del Poggio 2012, $11.10 LCBO

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera 2009, $39.95
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe 2007
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vaio Armaron Serego Alighieri
2007 Authentic
-Ciu Ciu Offida Pecorino 2012 Merlettaie, $18.95 PO Le Sommelier
-Ciu Ciu Rosso Piceno Superiore 2009 Gotico, $19.95 PO Le Sommelier
-Amastuola Salentino Primitivo IGP 2011, $16 C&E Worldfinds
-Amastuola Puglia IGP Onda del Tempo 2010, $20 C&E Worldfinds
-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Riserva Rocche 2005
-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Riserva Rocche 2006
-Bersano Vini Barolo Nirvasco 2009 Profile
-Cononica Cerreto Chianti Classico 2009, $16.95 Frontier
-Cononica Cerreto Toscana IGT Sandiavolo 2007, $24.95 Frontier
-Castoriani Podere 2008 Riserva Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, $42 Vinexx
-Castoriani Amorino 2007 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, $30 Vinexx
-Cesari Gerardo Amarone della Valpolicella Classico It Bosco 2007
Profile
-Clavesana Siamo Barolo Olo 2009, $40
-De Angelis Rosso Piceno Superiore Oro 2009 Marche, $18.95  Ruby
-Fatt. Cabanon Oltrepo Pavese Cuoredivino La Botte No. 18 2010, $27.95
Glencairn
-Feudo Disia Sicilia IGT Tornamira 2008, $30  Bassoalto
-Gruppo Italiano Vini Santi Amarone della Valpolicella Santi 2008, PMA
-Manfredi Barolo Patrizi 2008  HHD Imports
-Manfredi Barolo Patrizi 2009  HHD Imports
-Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Tradizione 2008  Majestic
-Michele Satta Bolgheri Superiore I Castagni 2006  Majestic
-Pietro Rinaldi Barolo Monvigliero 2009  Connexion
-PWS Barolo Gemma 2009  Ruby
-Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro 2008
-Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale 2009
-Valentina Cubi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Morar 2007  Vino
Allegro
-Wineoclock Amarone della Valpolicella 2008  Wine world
-Zeni Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigne Alte 2009, $39.95 
Frontier
-Banfi Alta Langa Cuvee Aurora Rose 2009 Sparkling, $23 Authentic

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Provincia di Pavia IGT Cavit Moscato 2012, $11.95 Noble
-Farnese Fantini Cuvee Cococciola $20 Authentic

 

The Food: cheeses, cold cuts, prosciuttos, meat balls, veggie pastas,
breads, catered by Cibo Wine Bar
The Downside: too many wines to try in one day, and there was also a
high security level.
The Upside: a chance to taste what I really wanted.
The Contact Person:  p.titone@ice.it
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
88.

 

 

 

 

 

2. The Date and Time: Monday, November 4, 2013  6:00PM – 10PM
The Event: Taste Canada; the food writing awards 2013
The Venue: Arcadian Court
The Target Audience: food writers, media, publishers
The Quote/Background: The Food Writing Awards drew 64 submissions, for
eight categories (four in each of French and English). The Gala
Reception was hosted by CBC's Stefano Faita. Other awards were for
Taste Canada/CBC People's Choice Book Award (Vegetarian's Complete
Quinoa Cookbook) and the new Hall of Fame inductees (Elizabeth Baird,
Mere Emelie Caron, and Helen Gougeon), plus awards for student food
competition winners.

 

The Book Winners: for the English language,

 

--BEST Culinary Narrative – French Kids Eat Everything (And Yours Can
Too), by Karen Le Billon (Harper Collins).

 

--BEST General Cookbook – Canada's Favourite Recipes, by Rose Murray
and Elizabeth Baird (Whitecap Books).

 

--BEST Regional/Cultural Cookbook – Burma: Rivers of Flavor, by Naomi
Duguid (Random House Canada).

 

--BEST Single Subject Cookbook – The Book of Kale: The Easy-to-Grow
Superfood; 80+ recipes, by Sharon Hanna

 

The Alcohol Beverages: there were beers from Alexander Keith's (but no
cider)—India Pale Ale, Cascade Hop (Washington) Ale, and Hallertauer
Hop (Bavaria) Ale. The Niagara Teaching College Winery sent along their
Unoaked Chardonnay 2011 (4 stars) and their Merlot 2009 (3 stars).
The Food: There were nine stations of food for us to sample afterwards:

 

-Chef Joshua Dyer (EPIC, Fairmont Royal York): Ontario elk tenderloin
bresola, chevre, quince, marrow and balsamic.
-Chef Matt Dean Pettit (Rock Lobster)- for the second year in a row he
left early when cleaned out of Nova Scotia lobster rolls, butter
poached vanilla lobster spoons, and lobster deviled eggs (poached with
beet juice)
-Chef Brad Lomanto (Cambridge Mill Restaurant): cardoon ravioli, tongue
bacon, celery.
-Chefs Michael Robertson and Jamie Meireles (Oliver & Bonacini): maple
and chili smoked Pacific salmon, preserved peach and squash pickle,
sage crème fraiche, and grilled bannock.
-Chef Vanessa Yeung (Aphrodite Cooks): pork pot stickers, carrot and
daikon radish slaw.
-Chef Tawfik Shehata (Toronto International Centre): Willow Grove Hill
pork milk braised, Alberta barley cake pan-fried, jalapeno, chick pear
flour, eggs – my overall fave!!
-Chef Wanda Beaver (Wanda's Pie in the Sky): sour cherry tarts, meyer
lemon tarts, pecan squares.
-Chef Dufflet Rosenberg (Dufflet Pastries): caramel dacquoise of
hazelnut meringue and white chocolate, cappuccino dacquoise, and
hazelnut dacquoise.

 

The Downside: I had previously killed my tasting palate in the
afternoon at the ICE show.
The Upside: it was terrific congratulating all the winners!
The Contact Person: debby@mdgassociates.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
94.

 

 

 

 

 

3. The Date and Time: Tuesday, November 5, 2013  10AM to noon
The Event: Champagne Deutz tasting with Export Director Philippe Rivet
and the team from his Ontario agency, Tandem Selections.
The Venue: Independent Wine Education Guild Toronto offices
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: mostly from the agent.
The Quote/Background: M. Rivet spoke to his company before we tasted
the wines – they use first pressings only, 80% of their total acreage
is Grand or Premier Cru (mostly around Ay), and they use the same
distinctive unique bottle shape for all labels. There was a visual tour
of the facilities and vineyards, as well as graphs and charts.
The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Deutz Brut Rose NV, $79.95 - strawbs
-Deutz Brut 2006, $94.95
-Deutz Blanc de Blancs 2007, $109.95
-Deutz Cuvee William Deutz 2000, $199.95 – my personal fave of the
tasting (1998 is in BC), nicely decomposing.
-Deutz Amous de Deutz 2005, $229.95 – chardonnay, slightly off-dry

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Deutz Brut Classic NV, $64.95

 

The Contact Person: crupcic@tandemselections.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
90.

 

 

 

 

 

4. The Date and Time: Tuesday, November 5, 2013   2PM to 6PM
The Event: Mark Anthony Portfolio Tasting
The Venue: Soho House
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is landed (Vintages,
Consignment) or Private Order. The spiral catalogue, while a good idea,
was awkward to use in the limited space, and the page numbers were not
large enough for the dim lighting. I know that some users were
confused.
The Quote/Background: There were 25 suppliers, from a range of
companies.
The Wines: I did not try every wine. Prices are licensee.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dona Paula Seleccion de Bodega Malbec 2008, $39.95 PO
-Dona Paula Yacochuya 2006, $49.95 Vintages
-Santa Rita Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $61.95
-Chateau Laroque St-Emilion Grand Cru 2005, $59
-Simonet-Febvre Les Clos 2010, $94.95
-Lanson Gold Label Vintage Brut 2002, $79.95  - my fave of the tasting
-Lanson Extra Age Brut NV, $99.99
-Lanson Vintage 1993, $517.95 magnum
-Gunderloch Riesling Spatlese Nackenheim Rothenberg 2012, $36.95
-Gunderloch Riesling Auslese Nackenheim Rothenberg 2011, $55.60
-Gunderloch Riesling Beerenauslese Nackenheim Rothenberg 2008, $239.95 
375mL
-Falesco Montiano Lazio 2010, $44.95
-Tenuta Sant' Antonio Campo Dei Gigli Amarone 2006, $79.95 LCBO Spring
2014
-Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $59.95
-Rodney Strong Alexander's Crown Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $99.95
-Rodney Strong Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $99.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Mission Hill Oculus 2010, $70.79
-Mission Hill SLC Syrah 2010, $32.79
-Mission Hill Perpetua 2010, $30.99
-Mike Weir Riesling 2012, $19.21
-Stoney Ridge Excellence Chardonnay 2011, $16.67
-Stoney Ridge Excellence Merlot 2010, $16.67
-Stoney Ridge Pinot Grigio 2011, $11.61
-Santa Rita Bougainville Petite Sirah 2010, $99.95
-Santa Rita Pehuen Carmenere 2007, $59.95 PO
-Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2012 Alsace, $19.25
-Louis Latour Merusault 1er Cru Chateau de Blagny 2009, $77.95
-Louis Latour Chateau Corton-Grancey Grand Cru 2008, $138.95 PO
-Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2010, $199.95 PO
-Simonet-Febvre Chablis 2010, $19.95
-Lanson Black Kaleb NV, $53.95
-Chateau Montus 2007 Rouge, $32.95
-Chateau Montus 2010 Blanc
-Chateau Montus La Tyre 2002 $104.95
-Schloss Johannisberg Grunlack Spatlese 2012, $37.95
-Schloss Johannisberg Silberlack Grosses Gewachs 2012, $53.95
-Cavas Hill Cava Brut NV, $13.95 LCBO Spring 2013
-Collavini Broy Collio 2011 Bianco, $49.95
-Tormaresca Roycello Fiano 2012, $21.95
-Alois Lageder Porer Pinot Grigio 2012, $27.95
-Alois Lageder Lowengang Chardonnay 2010, $49.95
-Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico 2011
-Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
-Montelvini Venegazzu Prodry Prosecco NV, $192 for 16 litres on draught
-Tenuta Sant' Antonio Amarone Selezione 2010, $44.95 LCBO Spring
-Nederburg Manor House Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $16.95  LCBO Spring 2014
-Tangley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $25.95
-Sanford Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills 2009, $54.95
-Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2011 Sonoma

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mike Weir Pinot Noir 2009, $14.14
-Mike Weir Unoaked Chardonnay 2012, $16.67
-Chateau Bois Pertuis 2012, $15.95
-Alois Lageder Dolomiti Pinot Grigio 2012, $16.95
-Castello Monsanto Chianti Monrosso 2011, $16.95
-Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio 2008, $65
-Falesco Tellus Syrah 2011 Umbria, $17.95
-Nederburg Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, $16.95 LCBO Spring 2014
-Nederburg Heritage Heroes Anchor Man Chenin Blanc 2012, $27.95
-Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $79.95
-Rodney Strong Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $27.95

 

The Food: charcuterie plate with cheeses, fruit, breads and toasts.
The Downside: it was pretty crowded, mainly because the laneway between
tables was not wide enough to accommodate two lines of tasters.
The Upside: a chance to speak with reps from the companies.
The Contact Person: portfoliotasting@markanthony.com,
dshorrocks@markanthony.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
86.

 

 

 

 

 

5. The Date and Time: Thursday, November 14, 2013  1PM to 5:15PM
The Event: Media tasting with Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble: Argentina
meets BC meets Nova Scotia.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are at the LCBO in some format.
The Quote/Background: This was a tasting of their "out-of-province"
wine portfolio, of soon to be released wines.
The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Benjamin Bridge Blanc de Blanc 2004 MC Nova Scotia, $280 N/A – my fave
-Benjamin Bridge Reserve Brut 2007 MC Nova Scotia, $280 +275396 $74.95
-Sperling Vineyards Estate Brut Sparkling 2008 MC VQA Okanagan,
+361436, $39.95
-Sperling Vineyards Estate Old Vines Riesling 2011 VQA Okanagan,
+361204, $34.95
-Versado Reserva Malbec 2010 Single Vineyard Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza,
+316984, $59.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Sperling Vineyards Estate Sper…itz Moscato 2011 VQA Okanagan, +364166,
$12.95 375 mL
-Versado Malbec 2012 Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza, +317008, $25.95
-Clos du Soleil Signature 2011 VQA Okanagan [Bordeaux-type red blend]
-Clos du Soleil Capella 2011 VQA Okanagan [Bordeaux-type white blend]

 

The Downside: nothing
The Upside: on the way to the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo
The Contact Person: versadowine@gmail.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
91.

 

 

 

 

 

6. The Date and Time: Thursday, November 14, 2013 6Pm to 10PM
The Event: 19th Annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo
The Venue: Metro Convention Centre
The Target Audience: VIPs night, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: I did some wines, most are available via
LCBO. There was also a great Casa Toscana olive oil/balsamic tasting.
The Quote/Background: each booth had its own system of displaying its
wares, so it was a bit chaotic and noisy. I did not visit every booth,
of course, but Select and Trialto were the better ones for notes about
the wines. Everybody should use business cards. Other booths visited
included Strewn, AltoVino, New Zealand, MCO, Food Wines Portugal,
Pontos Imports.

 

The Wines: From AltoVino as private orders, I tasted Farr Rising
Chardonnay 2009 (3.5 stars), Key Brothers Block 6 Shiraz 2008 ($99.50,
3.5 stars), By Farr Shiraz 2009 ($79, 3.5 stars), J.J. Ahn Regional
Shiraz/Cabernet 2010 ($21.95, 3.5 stars), Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz
2012 ($35, 3.5 stars), Rob Dolan True Colours CSM 2012 ($25, 4 stars),
Kalleske Shiraz 2010 ($109, 3 stars) and Kalleske Shiraz Pirathan 2012
($29, 3 stars). From Pontos Imports, Luna Sicana Fiano 2012 ($25, 3.5
stars), Luna Sicana Catarrato 2012 ($25, 3.5 stars), Luna Sicana Luna
Sol NV ($40, 3 stars), Mastrogiureto Calabria Rosso 2010 ($30, 4
stars), Techni Alipiac 2008 ($25, 3.5 stars), plus two Greek wines with
winery names written in Greek: a Roditis 2012 ($18, 3 stars) and a
Assyrtiko Drama Idisma Drios 2011 (3 stars).

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Strewn Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2012 VQA, $12.95 – RWF Award
-Hidden Bench Chardonnay 2011 VQA, $28.95 Vintages
-Pinho Real Vinho Verde 2012, $11.80 FWP
-Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Chile, $21.95 LCBO
-Catena Malbec 2011 Mendoza, $19.95 Vintages
-Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $19.96 Vintages
-Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Calcaire 2011 Alsace, $24.95 Vintages
-Herve Seguin Pouilly Fume 2011 Loire, $19.75 Vintages

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Hidden Bench Riesling 2012 VQA, $23.95 Vintages
-Hidden Bench Terroir Cache 2009 VQA Beamsville, $32.95 Vintages
-Strewn Cottage Block Sauvignon Blanc/Riesling VQA Niagara 2012, $12.95
LCBO
-Strewn Two Vines White Riesling/Gewurztraminer VQA NOTL, $11.95 LCBO
-Esporao Red Reserva 2010 FWP
-Oyster Bay Wines Sparkling Cuvee Brut NV, $21.95 Vintages
-Oyster Bay Wines Chardonnay 2012, $18.95 Vintages
-Saint Clair Family Estate Vicar's Choice Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $15.95
LCBO
-Vina Maipo Vitral Reserva Chardonnay Casablanca, $13.95 LCBO
-Trivento Fair Trade Malbec Argentina, $11.95 LCBO
-Ebeia Roble Tempranillo Ribera del Duero, $14.95 LCBO
-Project Paso Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, $17.95 LCBO
-Mendel Malbec 2010 Mendoza, $24.95 Vintages
-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $22.95 Vintages
-Chateau Pipeau Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010, $35.95 Vintages
-Chateau L'Orangerie Bordeaux 2011, $13.95 Vintages
-Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese 2011 Mosel, $25.95
Vintages
-Michel Delhommeau Harmonie Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2011, $13.95
Vintages
-Vina San Esteban In Situ Signature Chardonnay-Viognier Aconcagua 2011,
$15.95 LCBO
-Vignerons de Buzet red Badge Merlot/CabSauv 2010, $12.95 LCBO
-Vina San Esteban In Situ Winemakers Selection Carmenere Aconcagua
2010, $13.95 Vintages
-Chateau Pineraie Cahors 2009, $15.95 Vintages
-Dornier Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot South Africa 2010, $16.95 Vintages

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Strewn Terroir Sauvignon Blanc 2012 VQA, $18.95
-Esporao Alandra White 2012, $8.05 LCBO
-Esporao Alandra Red 2012, $7.255 LCBO
-Brancott Estate Letter Series B Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $19.95 LCBO
-Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2012, $16.95 LCBO
-Firesteed Pinot Gris Oregon, $17.80 LCBO
-Asio Otus Red Blend Cab/Merlot/Syrah Italy. $13.95 LCBO
-Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon California, $19.95 LCBO
-Lodez Chardonnay-Viognier France, $12.65 LCBO
-Montresor Amarone della Valpolicella, $35.60 Vintages

 

The Food: I sampled some free junk food for I was hungry and shameless.
The Downside: too dim, too noisy, but it was opening night.
The Upside: a chance to met old friends on the floor and behind the
booths.
The Contact Person: Christopher.waters@sunmedia.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
87.

 

 

 

 

 

7. The Date and Time:  Sunday, November 17, 2013  7Pm to 9PM
The Event: a tasting of Cavas La Capilla Mendoza wines
The Venue: TOCA
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: the wines are available from the agent,
CTIL Fine Wines and Spirits (www.ctilwinesandspirits.com)
The Quote/Background: Lorena Meco, Commercial Director of Tradearg, led
the tasting, along with Hector Scarsi, company winemaker, and Brijesh
Patel from the agency. Noel Gallardo, export manager for Capilla, was
also present, giving us a steady stream of facts and figures and
prices. Capilla calls itself a boutique winery, with just over a 50,000
case production. Lately, it has been seeking export markets. Its
Penitente Malbec won best wine at Intervin, over 1400 other wines.
The Wines: We tasted a range of Malbecs, skipping one entry level, plus
a white wine for refresher.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cavas La Capilla Aldebaran Torrontes 2012 San Carlos Uco, $20.45 –
slightly oily
-Cavas La Capilla Penitente Malbec 2011 Lujan de Cuyo/San Carlos,
$43.95 – creamy, long length, ready
-Cavas La Capilla Templum Malbec Gran Reserva 2010 Altamira, $82.95 –
very Euro, Bordeaux-like, one more year but approachable now.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Cavas La Capilla Aldebaran Malbec 2012 Lujan de Cuyo, $25.95

 

The Food: an international and Quebec cheese plate and a charcuterie
plate, garnished with savouries veggies and dried/fresh fruit, plus
breads.
The Downside: I had just eaten dinner, and was assured that crackers
were on offer, so I was surprised at all the food! I know, I know – I
didn't have to eat it. My fault.
The Upside: a chance to taste some really good higher end Argentine
wines.
The Contact Person: lorena@tradearg.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
93.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH!

CANADIAN WINERIES (Firefly Books, 2013, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-
244-0, $29.95 CAN paper covers) is by Tony Aspler, well-known and
prolific Canadian wine writer, and photographer Jean-Francois Bergeron.
It is a photographic essay-profile to 82 of Canada's finest wineries.
Aspler provides the context with stories of the regions and the people,
while Bergeron illustrates the winemakers and modern facilities, the
vineyards, and the settings with his photos. Currently, there are over
560 wineries in Canada, and (if you include fruit wines and grape
juice) wine is made everywhere. Over the years, Aspler has written many
books about Canadian wines, and some have been photographed principally
by Steve Elphick. Here, Bergeron and Aspler have roamed around Canada
over the years in different seasons to produce what could actually be a
wine-touring guide (although it is a weighty book). To be selected in
the top 15% or so, a winery had to have quality and consistency in
vintages over the years, had to be historically significant in an
impact manner, and had to be aesthetically appealing for its setting.
There are 34 wineries here from Ontario, an equal number for BC, 9 from
Quebec, and 5 from Nova Scotia. Each gets a directory listing, a photo
of a wine bottle, a photo of people or building or vineyard (and more),
and a profile of the people and the business.
Audience and level of use: wine lovers, Canadian winery visitors,
reference libraries.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seven million tourists visit
Canadian wineries each year. Wineries contribute $6.8 billion a year
and support 31,000 jobs.
The downside to this book: no real tasting notes.
The upside to this book: a good look at important wineries and the
people behind them.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com