APVSA Tasting in Toronto

The Date and Time: Tuesday, January 14, 2014  11AM to 4PM

The Event: the bi-monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des

vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Eaton Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the

principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to

comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such

places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,

Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show

will have wines from Canada, Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia.

Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available.

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be

acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines

that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be

any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made

available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few

have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good

value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB

cost. I did not try every wine, even though there were winery assistants this time.

The Wines: Prices are FOB. I did not taste every product.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Parigot Pommard Les Riottes 2011

-Champagne Waris Hubert Grand Cru Chardonnay, 13.5E

-Champagne Waris Hubert Blanc de Noirs Pinot Noir, 12E

-Champagne Waris Hubert Grand Cru Chardonnay Millesime, 18E

-Champagne Moussy Brut Classique Edition 2007, 10.40E

-Champagne Moussy Brut Cuvee de Reserve Edition 2007, 10.40E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Brut Tradition, 13.60E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Rose Brut, 15E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Prestige, 17.50E

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Les Jumeaux 2012 Blanc

-Chateau de Thauvenay Sancerre 2012, 7.10E

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price

Rating terms):

-Chateau la Caderie Authentique 2008 Rouge Bordeaux, 4.83E

-Chateau la Caderie Authentique 2010 Rouge Bordeaux, 4.83E

-Domaine Parigot Pommard 1er cru Les Charmots 2011

-Domaine Parigot Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Clos de la Perriere 2011

-Chateau Montana Dialogue Cotes du Roussillon 2012, 2.90E

-Chateau Montana La Rouge Eternel Dialogue Cotes du Roussillon 2012, 3.50E

-Chateau Montana Cotes du Roussillon 2011, 5.50E

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Aiguillettes 2013 Blanc

-Chateau de Thauvenay Les Vignes du Baron Sancerre 2012, 5.72E

-Domaine de la Mayonette Cotes de Provence 2012 Rose, 3.50E

-Domaine de la Mayonette Cotes de Provence 2012 Blanc, 3.50E

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Nimois Nitoi 2012 Rouge [Rhone], 2.85E

-Domaine du Vistre Cuvee de Gladiateur AOP Costieres de Nimes 2009 Rouge

-Domaine du Vistre Cuvee de Gladiateur AOP Costieres de Nimes 2012 Rouge

-Chateau Landra Ventoux Les Boutieres 2010 Rouge

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Joncy Coteaux Bourguignone 2013 Rouge

-Chateau la Caderie Expression 2012 Rouge Bordeaux, 3.52E

-Chateau de Garde Bordeaux 2008 Rouge, 3.01E

-Chateau de Garde Bordeaux 2008 Blanc, 2.51E

-Domaine de la Mayonette 2012 Rose, 2E

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Numa 2011 Rouge [Rhone], 4.75E

-Chateau Landra Ventoux 2011 Rouge

-Chateau Landra Ventoux 2011 Blanc

 

The Food: great hot pizzas, which went well with the wines, as always.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):

85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Annual Dinner, Jan 20, 2014

The Date and Time: Monday, January 20, 2014  6:15PM to midnight

The Event: the annual dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada, attended by members and their partners. It was terrifically well-organized by member Sheila Swerling-Puritt, an event planner/opinion maker who is also a WWCC member.

The Venue: Le Paradis

The Target Audience: ourselves – private party, for which we actually pay money.

The Availability/Catalogue: only one wine was available to all – a generous donation of six well-received Bottega sparklers (three proseccos and three roses) for the reception, accompanied by mushrooms on gaufettes and other canapes.

The Quote/Background: we get together every year in January for a dinner at some great restaurant in Toronto (previously, Edo, Tutti Matti, Mistura, Mideastro Bistro, Senses, Hemispheres, Royal York, etc.). In addition to paying for the dinner, each person is responsible for bringing a bottle of "good to great" wine, which is then shared by all.

The Wines:

 

There were a lot of good/great wines with the dinner, too many (over two dozen) to sample and to list – but I was struck by the Chateau Pichon Baron 1998, Trius Grand Reds of 2007 and 1999, the Urla Tempus 2010 from Turkey, the Graham's 30 Year Port, the 1974 Vintage Port, the Yatta white wine from Kenya in a tetrapak, the Cote Rotie 1998, the Kangaroo Springs Shiraz, Pommard, the Brunello, and the copious quantities of different Ontario icewines.

 

The Food: there was a set menu of French bistro food with lots of choices and courses (snails, duck, chicken, fish, salads, etc.). Everybody got a scrumptious grilled veal marrow bone – it certainly brought out the dogs.

The Downside: it was really cold outside.

The Upside: we were in a room all by ourselves, and comfortably fed by David Currie who also provided a great wait staff.

The Contact Person: spuritt@sympatico.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): A plus, of course.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 15, 2014

*** PLEASE BE AWARE THAT SOME LCBO STORES STOCK NEW RELEASES ON THE THURSDAY AND FRIDAY BEFORE RELEASE DATES...THAT FAVE VALENTINE WINE CAN MOST LIKELY BE PICKED UP BEFORE OR ON FEBRUARY 14...

 

 

 

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 15, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

*** PLEASE BE AWARE THAT SOME LCBO STORES STOCK NEW RELEASES ON THE THURSDAY AND FRIDAY BEFORE RELEASE DATES...THAT FAVE VALENTINE WINE CAN MOST LIKELY BE PICKED UP BEFORE OR ON FEBRUARY 14...

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Mountadam Vineyards Cabernet/Merlot 2009 Barossa, +641860: outstanding value at this price level, 14.6% ABV, twist top, already aged five years. War, approachable, intense, reminiscent of a Bordeaux with more sweet fruit. QPR: 90.

 

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

[HALF-BOTTLE ALERT] – Muga Reserva 2009 Rioja, +976928, $13.95 for 375 mL

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Colome Torrontes 2012 Calchaqui Valley Argentina, +357913, $13.95: lip smacking delicious, off-dry, great for a Valentine's Day in Toronto, the natural home of torrontes!! Indeed, it reminds me of summer, which is needed after the wretched winter thus far. Twist top. QPR: 89.

3.Lawson's Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Marlborough, +214460, $17.95: very grassy savvy, Gold Medalist, more full body than most, good price. QPR: 89.

4.Paul Zinck Portrait Gewurztraminer 2011 Alsace, +367433, $19.95: twist top, with some more pronounced gewurz flavours minus the slight bitterness at the end. Off-dry. QPR: 89.

5.Joseph Drouhin Macon-Villages 2012, +356956, $17.95: this month's value white burgundy, attractive style for food with lovely finish. QPR: 89.

6.Terres Blanches Muscat Sec 2012 Pays d'Oc, +653188, $13.95: how do I say it? "gewurz without zee edge". QPR: 89.

7.Boutari Santorini 2012 Greece, +47985, $17.95: grassy, herby, good price for an acid spine meant for food. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, +240093, $17.95: more than a match for their wonderful Merlot, 13.5% and juicy. QPR: 89.

2.Willow Bridge Dragonfly Shiraz 2011 Geographe Western Australia, +289249, $18.95: good intensity of Shiraz fruit, twist top, 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

3.Domaine des Ouches Igoranda Bourgueil 2011, +283424, $16.95: very useful food wine, slightly weedy and savoury, only 12.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

4.Poderi Angelini Primitivo di Manduria 2008 Puglia, +268136, $18.95: already five years old, still alive and kicking at 15% ABV. It's also a very heavy bottle, so it must be serious: only those with a six-pack can hoist it. QPR: 89.

5.Torre Saracena Riserva Salice Salentino 2009 Puglia, +362442, $16.95: deep dark chocolate tones, 13.5% ABV, check rated. QPR: 89.

6.Tasca d'Almerita Cygnus Nero d'Avola/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGT Sicilia, +909911, $19.95: mint dominates, pull it out as a surprise mystery wine and let everybody think it is from California. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

7.Tenuta Sant'Antonio Monti Garbi Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2010, +165126, $17.95: the Ripasso of the Month at the LCBO. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, +172338, $22.95 retail.

2.Mud House The Woolshed Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Marlborough, +312744, $20.95.

3.Waterkloof Circle of Life White 2011 WO Stellenbosch, +284588, $24.95.

4.Chateau des Charmes Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 VQA St.David's Bench Niagara, +332858, $35.

5.Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Nagambie Lakes Victoria, +138818, $21.95.

6.Daniel Rion & Fils Vieilles Vignes Nuits-Saint-Georges 2011, +356600, $53.95.

7.Chateau de Gaudou Renaissance Cahors 2010 Cuvee Boisee, +364786, $22.95.

8.Verbena Brunello di Montalcino 2008, +165126, $39.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

LCBO's Winter Wine Release (Caparzo Sangiovese) launch at Tutti Matti, Jan 23/14

The Date and Time:  Thursday, January 23, 2014, Noon – 3 PM

The Event: Luncheon with Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, proprietor of Caparzo, Doga delle Clavule, and Borgo Scopeto in Tuscany. The purpose was to introduce the new LCBO listing Caparzo Sangiovese 2011 IGT Toscana (+361022, $12.95). It is this year's Winter Wine Release at the LCBO.

The Venue: Tutti Matti

The Target Audience: wine media/bloggers

The Availability/Catalogue: wines appear from time to time through the LCBO. Here, only the Caparzo Sangiovese is at the LCBO. The rest are all through the agent.

The Quote/Background: The Winter Wine Release is a limited time offering via the LCBO; it is always red (in summer there is a white Summer Wine Release). The wine comes from three separate estate vineyards in Tuscany, those responsible for Chianti, Brunello and Maremma. Delicious black and red berries, some vanilla tones. Mostly food, but can also be a sipper at a party.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico 2010, $18.95

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2008, $39.95

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa Single Vineyard 2000

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa Single Vineyard 2004

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa Single Vineyard 2006

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Caparzo Sangiovese 2011 Toscana IGT, +361022, $12.95. Twist top.

-Tenuta Caparzo La Grance 2005 IGT Toscana [white, 75% BF chardonnay], $21.95

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa Single Vineyard 2008, $61.75

-Tenuta Caparzo Moscadello di Montalcino Vendemmia Tardiva 2006, $26.75 375 mL

 

The Food: owner-chef Alida Solomon matched her food with the wines, both being reflective of Tuscany. The antipasti was a selection of bruschetta and crostini, fried pancetta, rabbit terrine, headcheese, pecorinos, veggie pickles, white beans, prosciutto, and pate (with the Sangiovese and La Grance). The wild board ragu was with the Chianti; the braised short ribs with the Brunello 2008, while the cheeses (60 day pecorino and aged pecorino) went with the Brunello La Casa 2000, 2004, 2006, and 2008. Afterward, we all had coffees, biscotti from Italy, and the Moscadello. Terrific matching.

The Downside: it was cold outside and noisy inside.

The Upside: a chance to talk with a winery proprietor.

The Contact Person: joy@thecaseforwine.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Domaine de l'Arjolle Tasting Jan21/2014 Toronto

The Date and Time: Tuesday, January 21, 11AM to 1PM

The Event: Tasting a selection of wines from Domaine de l'Arjolle, represented in Ontario by HHD Imports [www.hhdimports.com]

The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Store #10

The Target Audience: wine writers

The Availability/Catalogue: only two wines are in the Ontario marketplace (the Zinfandel and the Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier) – the rest are private orders.

The Quote/Background: the tasting was led by Geoffroy de la Besnardiere, winemaker for the domaine which is owned in conjunction with Chateau Massamier La Mignarde and Chateau La Croix Martelle. The wines are from the IGP Cotes du Thongue appellation of the Languedoc, and are reflective of biodiversity naturalness. While the rules of the Thongue appellation allow for a free choice of grapes (such as zinfandel), the overarching rules of France's appellations prohibit more than a Vin de France label. Their one hectare of zinfandel, planted in the 1980s, is still the only growth in France.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine de L'Arjolle Z Zinfandel 2011 Vin de France, 14% ABV, +346072, $19.95.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine de L'Arjolle Equilibre Viogner Sauvignon Blanc 2013 [60/40] $15.95 Private

-Domaine de L'Arjolle Cabernet Merlot 2012 [60/40] $15.95 Private order

-Domaine de L'Arjolle K Carmenere 2010 Vin de France, $19.95 Private order

-Domaine de L'Arjolle Cabernet 2011 [70CS/30CF] $21.95 Private order

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-L'Arjolle Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2012 [60/40], +348904, $11.95.

-L'Arjolle Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 [60/40] $11.95 private order

 

The Food: pate, two blue cheeses, breads, summer sausage.

The Downside: it was a cold day

The Upside: a chance to talk with the winemaker, who had an extensive q and a with us.

The Contact Person: info@hhdimports.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

..all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or
classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-
editions"...

20. COOKING AT HOME WITH THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA. Rev. ed.
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 408 pages, ISBN 978—0-470-58781-2,
$35 US hard covers) presents the essentials of cooking: tools and
equipment, ingredients, pantry, techniques. It was originally published
by Wiley in 2003, selling at $60. This edition has 104 more pages, and
now has 250 new recipes and new colour photography. There are scores of
cooking techniques which are explained, with full instructions and
photos of processes, followed by basic recipes with more photos of
platings. The book starts with soups (and stocks) such as Thai hot and
sour soup, moving through the menu to desserts such as bread and butter
pudding. The basic and the classic are presented, with plenty of paged
cross-references from a recipe to the techniques involved. Gone, for
example, are the chicken thighs with duxelles stuffing and the braised
rabbit. Basics also include southern fried chicken and chicken breasts
made with diverse sauces. Classics include duck and orange sauce, osso
buco, and paella Valenciana. While there are illustrations of what you
can do with a knife (e.g., chop, dice, julienne, etc.), there are no
detailed instructions nor illustrations on how to hold the knife, nor
on the stroke action. What I do like about this book is its
authoritative style, very useful for beginners. Preparations have their
ingredients listed only in avoirdupois measurements, but there are
tabled of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88, for the home
cook

21. COUTURE CHOCOLATE; a masterclass in chocolate (Jacqui Small LLP,
2011, 2013, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-909342-45-3, $29.95 US soft covers)
is by William Curley, four time winner of Best British Chocolatier
award from the Academy of Chocolate. There's also log rolling from
Heston Blumenthal and Marco Pierre White, amongst others. This current
book, originally published in 2011, won the Guild of Food Writers
Cookery Book of the Year award in 2012. It is a colourful book
examining origins and bean qualities, plus other items in a chapter
dealing with essentials. This is followed by classes in truffles, bars,
bouchees, cakes, patisserie, ice cream and sauces, and so forth. It's a
DIY book, with absolutely gorgeous photos. There's a glossary, and a
resources list (almost all of it is British). Try chocolate and
pistachio cake, milk chocolate and jasmine granita, or caramelized
white chocolate and miso ice cream in coconut and orange cone.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Restaurant Australia and Wine Australia celebrate Australia Day Jan 23, 2014

The Date and Time: Thursday, January 23, 2014   5:30PM to 9 PM

The Event: Restaurant Australia celebrates Australia Day, with creations by Chef John Placko and appropriate wines.

The Venue: The 2nd Floor, King Street West.

The Target Audience: wine media/bloggers/opinion makers

The Availability/Catalogue: wines are in the LCBO system

The Quote/Background: Last year, we had a sit down dinner for Oz Day with Oz Chef John Placko, a molecular gastronomy consultant and chef at Humber College. There were only a few wines which nobody talked about, and only 24 people at the dinner. This year, there was similar food, but with more wines (and pourers to talk about them) and more trade (over 100). The drawback was that it was all stand up, noisy, and hard to match wines with other dishes. For awhile, until I brought it up, there were no spit buckets. Indeed, the quote of the day was "This is not a spit bucket event". Nevertheless, it was successful in exposing a lot of wine and a lot of food to a lot of people. As before, it was a joint effort with Tourism Australia, Wine Australia, and Air New Zealand.

The Wines: I may have missed some wines that were not put out until later.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Robert Oatley Tic Tok Pocket Watch Cabernet Sauvignon 2011.......$15.95

-Are You Game Shiraz 2010.....$16.95

-Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2012......$19.95

-Evans & Tate Metricup Road Shiraz 2010 Margaret River - $22.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Day Trippers Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2013.....$9.95

-Stonier Pinot Noir 2012 Mornington Peninsula.....$26.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Brokenwood Cricket Pitch Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2011.........$18.95

-Sticks Chardonnay 2010 Yarra - $19.95

-Little Yering Pinot Noir 2012......$19.95

-Chapel Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 McLaren Vale....$24.95

-Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2012..... $16.95

 

The Food: service was a la carte and a la minute, so there were lineups after 6PM when most people arrived. I guess with the younger crowd, everybody is used to lineups and noise. The trade was chatty, checked their email, talked on the cell, took pictures, etc. – while waiting. I read a book.

Menu – from Victoria, there was a white strip lamb served with minted cucumber, four year old cheddar, pickled apple, apricot paste. 7 wines from Victoria joined the food.

From New South Wales, there were lemon myrtle prawns with caramelized onion sponge and roasted macadamia crumbs and a dill fluid gel. With Pocket Watch and Cricket Pitch.

From South Australia, kangaroo and pepperberry sliders, quandong peach relish. Chapel Hill and Y Viognier here.

Things started slowing down with the wines – the barramundi with wilted greens, the butternut squash with goat cheese crumbs (my fave of the evening), and the wattle seed ice cream together got Evans and Tate Shiraz.

At the end, the great Tim Tam Slam!!

The Downside: it was cold outside and after a busy stand up day, I had to stand up some more (there was limited seating).

The Upside: good exposure of food and wine, although no notes or lineups were provided until after the event. Apparently, I was the only one taking notes – maybe that's old style? Maybe I wasn't supposed to?

The Contact Person: giovana.chichito@ketchum.com;  stacey.grimshaw@ketchum.com; johneplacko@gmail.com; popoffanne@gmail.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Restraurant/Celebrity Cookbooks

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been
around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are
automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant
or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere,
doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network.
Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or
the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in
these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved.
Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or
recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be
related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are
American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients;
sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there
is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite
recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on
"demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of
the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes
to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food
writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books)
don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim
to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food
researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and
advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant
world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity
books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much
self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo
shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other
celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited,
they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

13. PERFECT PATISSERIE; mastering macarons, madeleines and more
(Firefly Books, 2013, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-211-2, $24.95 CAN
hard covers) is by Tim Kinnaird, owner of Macarons & More. It was
launched after Kinnaird reached the finals of the BBC's MasterChef show
in 2010. His recipes are in two cookbooks derived from that show. He
also sells online at www.macaronsandmore.com. This book is for the home
baker, with details on how to make the various parts and how to
assemble them. It's fully and richly illustrated, with tips and advice
for a range of foods dealing with choux paste, tarts, gateaux,
entremets, petits fours, fillings and frostings, plus decorating.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.
There is also a glossary and a resource list. Try apple crumble and
custard caramel éclairs, maple syrup-bacon-blueberry macarons, green
tea and white chocolate and lemon delice, or arlette cookies. Have fun!
Quality/price rating: 86.

14. PAYARD DESSERTS (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 360 pages, ISBN
978-1-118-43589-2, $40 US hard covers) is by Francois Payard, owner of
Payard Patisserie & Bistro and other places in NYC. In 1995 he won a
Beard Award as Pastry Chef of the Year, and since then he was been
accoladed by his profession. He is one of 85 "best pastry chefs in the
world" via his membership in Relais Desserts International. Even so, he
needs a boatload of eight log rollers, including Thomas Keller, Dorie
Greenspan, Eric Ripert and Daniel Boulud. His focusing food writer is
Tish Boyle, an experienced dessert food writer, recipe developer, and
cookbook author. She does the instructions, ingredients and equipment,
but the preps are his. Chapters have section s that incorporate frozen
desserts, fruit desserts, pastries, meringues, custards, mousses,
tarts, soufflés, crepes, cold dessert soups, and even the cheese course
(warm ricotta tart, gorgonzola ice cream, chevre cheese, and more).
Each dessert also includes a beverage pairing suggestion from Olivier
Flosse, sommelier of A Voce restaurants in NYC: wine, beer, liqueur,
cocktail. Some specific brands are mentioned, but many are not.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. If you
do these procedures a lot, the recipes are not really complicated: you
just need to run through them a few times. For a four-hour baked apple
napoleon with caramel chantilly and caramel sauce, you'll need some
time, five recipes (including one for spiced tuiles) plus some assembly
instructions that are easier than IKEA. Quality/price rating: 88.

15. MODERN NATIVE FEASTS; healthy, innovative, sustainable cuisine
(Arsenal Pulp Press, 2013, 189 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-507-5, $21.95
paper covers) is by Andrew George Jr. who had earlier written A FEAST
FOR ALL SEASONS; traditional native peoples' cuisine (Arsenal Pulp
Press, 2010). He was recently head chef at the Four Host First Nations
pavilion at the 2010 Winter Olympics. He was also involved with the
World Culinary Olympics as part of the first all-Native team in the
competition's history. He instructed at the Kla-how-eya cooking school,
and also develops Native menus for restaurants and hotels
internationally. There are over 100 preps here for a variety of
appetizers, salads, soups, and mains that match traditional native
ingredients with modern flavours and techniques. In time for the 2013
holidays are the recipes for buffalo and cranberry stew, venison
tourtiere, and wild berry crumble. Other foods from native areas of
Canada, such as salmon, wild duck, oysters, caribou and elk are also
here. The emphasis is on "feast" foods and ceremonies, for a gathering
small or large; it could even be a family dinner. There are cultural
food notes. Try moose cannelloni, cranberry sweet and sour goose
breast, spicy elk wraps, or even three-game meatballs. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some
metric weights, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

16. GREAT HOMEMADE SOUPS; a cook's collection (Jacqui Small, 2013, 232
pages, ISBN 978-1-909342-23-1, $40 US hard covers) is a collection of
some 100 soup recipes, mostly from award-winning Chef Paul Gayler of
The Lanesborough (London). He's been on British TV and has over 20
cookery books under his name. It's a "master class" book, with
templated recipes to replicate or expand on. He's also got some guests
chefs: Daniel Boulud, Pierre Koffman, Susan Spicer, and five more.
There's the basic primer about soups and stocks and equipment. This is
followed by clear soups and consommés, smooth and creamy, hearty and
wholesome, some British favourites, wild and exotic soups, and chilled
soups (only a few are fruit-based). Globally, there is pho from
Vietnam, ajiaco from Colombia, miso noodle soup from Japan, and a
chickpea and fennel soup from Sardinia. One of my faves is the yam-
peanut-ginger soup from Ethiopia. Great photographs, but a tiny font
for the index makes it difficult to locate a recipe. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

17. DELICIOUS SOUPS; fresh and hearty soups for every occasion (Ryland,
Peters & Small, 2013, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-463-7, $24.95 US hard
covers) is by Belinda Williams, founder of the Yorkshire Party Company
(events and catering) and the Yorkshire Provender. She's been busy
designing soups for the latter. There are about 60 preps here, arranged
by style of soup. It is much the same as Gayler's book above, but with
fewer recipes. Her chickpea soup is a Moroccan harira; there is no pho
or miso. But there is a nifty sunchoke soup with sorrel and sage, and a
field mushroom soup or a creamy coconut and lamb soup. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price
rating: 86.

18. THE MODEL BAKERY COOKBOOK (Chronicle Books, 2013, 208 pages, ISBN
978-1-4521-1383-8, $35 US hard covers) is by Karen Mitchell and her
daughter Sarah, along with Rick Rodgers as the focusing food writer.
Karen founded Napa Valley's Model Bakery in 1984, and Sarah expanded it
to a market in 2008. Here are 75 preps featuring their most requested
foods: breads, desserts, fresh pastries – mostly along the lines of
pain au levain, sticky buns, peach streusel pie and ginger molasses
cookies. Model Bakery has been described as the quintessential hometown
bakery. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

19. THE FOUR & TWENTY BLACKBIRDS PIE BOOK; uncommon recipes from the
celebrated Brooklyn pie ship (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013, 224
pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-2051-0, $30 US hard covers) is by Emily and
Melissa Elsen, whose mother once owned the Calico Kitchen in South
Dakota. Her daughters later established Four & Twenty Blackbirds pie
and coffee shop in Brooklyn in 2010, and since then they seem to have
been featured all over the NYC media. There are 60 preps here, arranged
by season starting with spring, and with many photographs (some
illustrating techniques). With its lack of fresh fruit, winter brings
more nuts and citric pies, such as malted chocolate pecan pie,
grapefruit custard pie, lemon chess pie, buttermilk chess pie, or green
chili chocolate pie. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

New wines tasted this month

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

 

From Pelee Island Winery,

 

1.Pelee Island Vinedressers Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot VQA Ontario 2010, +530000 Winery, $19.95: gobs of both red and black fruit, mocha and toast, some drying in evidence at this stage, good food wine. 13% ABV. French, US and Hungarian oak used. 75% Cabernet. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

2.Pelee Island Vinedressers Cabernet Sauvignon VQA Ontario 2010, +530576 LCBO, $16.25: typical MVC for Cabernet, with black fruit and toastiness. Needs time, certainly. One to lay down. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Pelee Island Vinedressers Chardonnay VQA Ontario 2012, winery only, $14.95: a modestly priced rich chardonnay, brimming with fruity tones and a good body, almost late harvest in depth. Creamy and some vanilla and spicing, but little evidence of oaking. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4.Pelee Island Barrique Chardonnay VQA Pelee Island 2005, winery only, $13.95: still available, an amazing survivor through eight years of cellaring. Lots of life, somewhat off-dry, late harvested, excellent body and smokey. Food or sip (or both). Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

5.Pelee Island Singing Moon Pinot Blanc VQA Ontario 2012, LCBO Limited Release Wines to Watch Spring 2014, +326000, $14.95: with apple and citrus tones, this is like a lean, low alcohol (only 10% ABV) chardonnay suitable for a social wine gathering. Pinot Blanc is not seen too often in Ontario. Some auxerrois (14%) has been added for spine. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

6.Pelee Island Pinot Grigio VQA Ontario 2012, +326413, $13.95: good colour from the Gris component, 12.5% ABV. Flavours of stone fruit but with some pear drops, rich, mid-palate crispness, perhaps better with food. 15% chardonnay added. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

7.Pelee Island Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive VQA Pelee Island 2008, winery only, $16.95: probably one of the finest wines Pelee IW has ever made (of course, it is a personal fave of mine), in the distinct Alsatian style of (almost) late harvested Pinot Gris: rich, mid-sweet on the palate, but comforting. Definitely in the Gris mode and not the Grigio style. Already five years old and improving since I last had it, accented by pear tones which have gained strength as the wine ages. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

8.Pelee Island Alvar Pinot Noir VQA Ontario 2010, +458521, $15.95: one of their top end pinots, consistent from year-to-year. This vintage shows off much red fruit (cherries) and some vegetative patches (earth, mushrooms, herbs) good for food. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 1, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 1, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2006 Hunter Valley, +724492, $19.95: we've all been waiting for some older Hunter Valley semillons – here is what could be the first of many. A bit light in texture but redolent with beeswax and candied peel. Nicely aged, twist top, delightful sipper or food wine. Multiple Gold medalist. QPR: 92.

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Mountadam Estate Chardonnay 2009 High Eden Valley, +333211, $24.95 retail.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara, +80234, $16.95: a delight, with a long, long finish and Riesling MVC, 10% ABV, twist top. Food or sip. QPR: 89.

2.Tabali Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Limari, +662999, $14.95: very grassy, goose-y, and herbaceous, 13.5% ABV, great first course wine. QPR: 89.

3.Roux Pere & Fils Les Murelles Chardonnay Bourgogne 2012, +156455, $17.95: another fine mid-priced value chardonnay at that tender price point. Typical MVC flavours, more on the apple/lemon side but longer length. QPR: 89.

4.Beni di Batasiolo Granee Gavi del Commune di Gavi 2012, +75168, $16.95: fresh, appealing food wine, with citric acid and green fruit, some depth and nuttiness, concentrated tones. 12.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.S. Balbo Crios Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Unfined and Unfiltered Mendoza, +640979, $13.95: more on the herby side than on the jammy side, pretty good food wine. 14% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.

2.Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, +357517, $19.95: packs a lot of value as a delicious Bordeaux-styled wine. 14% ABV, one of the few Oz wines still left under cork. Delicious flavours. QPR: 89.

3.Dandelion Vineyards Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz 2011 Unfined and Unfiltered, +358127, $10.95 for 375 mL: Platinum medalist. Strong overt French tones, good value in a half-bottle, 14.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 90.

4.Schild Estate Old Bush Vine GMS Grenache/Mourvedre/Shiraz 2011 Barossa, +108183, $19.95: old vine complexity shines through, good depth. 55% grenache, some jammy fruit. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

5.Cathedral Cellar Triptych 2011 WO Western Cape, +53124, $16.95: good food wine with savouriness, longer finish, some oak tones from new French oak, 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

6.Chateau de Lafaurie-Monbadon 2010 Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon, +140012, $15.95: ripe, floral, sip or food. Harmonious balance. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

7.Chateau Haut Methee 2009 Bordeaux, +356592, $15.95: another well-priced wine, brimming with textured fruit with the MVC Bordeaux tones. 13% ABV. Gold Medalist. QPR: 90.

8.Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun 2011, +155804, $15.95: 

50 percent Sarah, 30 grenache, 20 mourvedre. Gold medalist. 14% ABV, good solid food wine. QPR: 89.

9.Montiverdi Atila Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, +344465, $19.95: excellent quality Chianti, valued for its MVC tones. 13% ABV. QPR: 89.

10.Villa Mora Montefalco Rosso Riserva 2006 Umbria, +357079, $19.95: intense fruit and tannins revealed under a whopping 15.5% ABV. Certainly a hidden gem, but not part of the current LCBO program. QPR: 89.

11.Ribota 2010 Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, +280628, $15.95: ripe and round, blueberries come to mind, fruity, long length, delicious at 14.5% ABV. Check it out. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

2.Roland Tissier & Fils Sancerre 2012, +108514, $21.95.

3.Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Coonawarra, +590471, $29.95.

4.Chateau Tour Saint Bonnet 2009 Medoc, +349282, $29.95.

5.Luca Bosio Barolo 2009, +365197, $33.95.

6.Folonari Nozzole La Forra Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, +362731, $23.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Annual Dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada, Jan 20/14, at Le Paradis, Toronto

The Date and Time: Monday, January 20, 2014  6:15PM to midnight

The Event: the annual dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada, attended by members and their partners. It was terrifically well-organized by member Sheila Swerling-Puritt, an event planner/opinion maker who is also a WWCC member.

The Venue: Le Paradis, Bedford Road.

The Target Audience: ourselves – private party, for which we actually pay money.

The Availability/Catalogue: only one wine was available to all – a generous donation of well-received Bottega sparklers: Bottega Il Vino dei Poeti (Prosecco) and their Rose Brut (both at the LCBO) for the reception, accompanied by mushrooms on potato gaufrettes and other canapes.

The Quote/Background: we get together every year in January for a dinner at some great restaurant in Toronto (previously, Edo, Tutti Matti, Mistura, Mideastro Bistro, Senses, Hemispheres, Royal York, etc.). In addition to paying for the dinner, each person is responsible for bringing a bottle of "good to great" wine, which is then shared by all.

The Wines:

There were a lot of good/great wines with the dinner, too many (over two dozen) to sample and to list – but I was struck by the Trius Grand Reds of 2007 and 1999, Neyen Espiritu de Apalta 2006 from Chile's Colchagua Valley, Soalheiro Alvarinho 2011, Art 2009 (Mencia from Bierzo), Comte Armand Pommard 2007, Zebras Brunello 2004, Comte Armand Pommard 2007, Château Pichon Longueville Lalande 1998, Rostaing Côte Rôtie La Landonne 1998, Kangaroo Springs Shiraz 2005, Urla Tempus 2010 (from Turkey: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc), Graham 30 Year Old Tawny Port and Kopke Colheita 1974, the Yatta white wine from Kenya in a tetrapak, and the

copious quantities of different Ontario ice wines.

 

The Food: there was a set menu of French bistro food with lots of choices and courses (duck, chicken, fish, salads, fricassé d'escargots, betteraves au chèvre frais, entrecôte du boeuf with béarnaise, trio of sorbets, etc.). Everybody got a scrumptious grilled veal marrow bone – it certainly brought out the dogs.

The Downside: it was really cold outside.

The Upside: we were in a room all by ourselves, and comfortably fed by David Currie who also provided a great wait staff.

The Contact Person: spuritt@sympatico.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): A plus, of course.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com