MY IRISH TABLE

MY IRISH TABLE; recipes from the homeland and Restaurant Eve (Ten Speed Press, 2014; distr. Random House Canada, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-430-6, $35 US hard covers) is by Cathal Armstrong (an award-winning Irish chef with seven restaurants in the Washington DC area) and David Hagedorn (once a chef but now a food writer with the Washington Post). It comes with some heavy log rolling from Phyllis Richman and Alice Waters. The book was published relatively close to St. Patrick's Day, so I decided to have it jump the queue so this review will be released in a timely fashion. Ireland has much produce, dairy, seafood, and grass-fed meats, helped along by foreign investments. Armstrong talks about his Irish culinary heritage, and in memoirs here, writes about his progress from Dublin to Washington. One of the places he owns is named after his daughter Eve. Through it all, we learn that Armstrong is heavily involved with sustainability and local food movements, and is using his influences to heavily promote them. It is a great read. His book has 130 preps, mostly the Irish classics but tempered with his French culinary training. The arrangement is by topic: there are sections on Irish breakfasts, food his mother cooked, Friday fish days, special occasions (Sunday, St. Patrick's Day, Easter, birthday, Halloween, Christmas), preps from Restaurant Eve, garden food, breads, and desserts. There is a glossary, a resources list, and primers on sauces and stocks. Try an Irish Caesar salad, Irish BLT, pork belly with braised cabbage and poached apples, Irish coffee (of course), and Cashel Blue cheese and toasted pecan terrine with frisee and apple jam. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are conversion tables of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE NEW SOUTHERN TABLE

THE NEW SOUTHERN TABLE; classic ingredients revisited (Fair Winds, 2014, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-585-5, $21.99 US soft covers) is by Brys Stephens, food writer and restaurant critic, now operating as www.cookthink.com. His book is arranged by ingredient: okra, field peas, squash, rice, collards, corn, sweet potatoes, lima beans,peanuts, pecans,figs, peaches, and watermelons – with something for everyone. There are about 100 recipes showing French, Mediterranean, Latin and Asian roots through combinations and techniques. Okra and feta shows off Greek tones, hoppin' john with coconut seems to be from the Caribbean, while Sicilian watermelon pudding is from Italy. Each product is introduced, there is photography, and some general food matching principles. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: lovers of Deep South food looking for a change.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: buttermilk pecan ice cream; chick, collard, and country ham saltimboca; forbidden coconut rice with mango; steak tacos with watermelon salsa; quick cook collards, chard and escarole; flounder in parchment with field peas, squash and peppers; peaches with pecan mint pesto.

The downside to this book: more recipes would have been useful because this is a great idea.

The upside to this book: good concept.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

RAWSOME VEGAN BAKING

RAWSOME VEGAN BAKING (Page Street, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-62414-055-6, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Emily von Euw, creator of the blog www.thisrawsomeveganlife.com which gets about a half million page views a month. The techniques, tips and preps come from the blog's site. It is a handsome book, made even the better with the exclusive Premium Binding which stays open for hand free viewing. The subtitle pretty much says it all: "an un-cookbook for raw, gluten-free, vegan, beautiful and sinfully sweet cookies, cakes, bars and cupcakes". It manages to combine three trends in one: raw, vegan, and gluten-free. Certainly these are healthier alternatives to many current desserts that are laden with bad sugars and bad fats. Over 100 recipes go into details such as use of the food processor and blender. An example given is the vanilla chocolate chunk cheesecake with peanut butter which uses oats, pitted dates, bananas, coconut oil, cashews, carob powder, peanut butter and chocolate – everything is raw. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: vegans, desert lovers, gluten-free eaters, fans of raw food.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: s'mores cupcakes; sorbet with strawberries, agave and mint; rhubarb almond crumble with maple oregano glaze; caramel tarts with pistachios and pumpkin seeds; chocolate nut butter cups; blueberry strawberry banana ice cream cake; "endless energy bars" (nuts seeds, figs, raisins, coconut).

The downside to this book: I would have liked more recipes, but I suppose these can be found at the blog.

The upside to this book: the concept and the binding.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 1, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 1, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Bodegas Alitus Balbas Ardal Crianza 2005 Ribera del Duero, +167601, $17.95: and here we are 8.5 years later, with a Ribera drinking well, augmented by forest floor tones, fresh wood tones of vanilla and cream, and terrific black fruit. 14% ABV. Buy it all...QPR: 92.

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 VQA NOTL, +1935723, $22.95.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Maison Roche de Bellene Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne Chardonnay 2011, +299867, $18.95: remarkable value if the label is correct: 65-year old vines, handpicked, 10% new oak. Astounding. QPR: 90.

2.Berthet-Rayne Tradition Cairanne Cotes du Rhone Villages 2011, +354100, $17.95: 14% ABV, bright, juicy, fruity, good depth and length but still best with food. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2012 VQA Niagara, +64618, $17.95: dark fruit and loaded with food-friendly tannins, twist top, 13% ABV. QPR: 89.

2.Rockway Vineyards Small Lot Cabernet Merlot 2011 VQA Twenty Mile Bench Niagara, +370346, $15.95: value packed, 13% ABV, twist top, engaging with a slight tartish finish, best with food.

3.Finca Sophrenia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Mendoza Tupongato, +350090, $17: 14.5% ABV, needs time, but otherwise a smart purchase for its bright fruit and crafty designed toasty finish. QPR: 89.

4.Flagstone Treaty Tree Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012 WO Western Cape: twist top, 14% ABV, California style of fruitiness, soft, approachable. Mocha, cherries, cream. QPR: 89.

5.Chateau La Gravette Lacombe 2010 Medoc, +295808, $19.95: good tasting Bordeaux for the price, 13.5% ABV, ready any day now.

6.Roux Pere & Fils La Moutonniere Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2012, +365064, $19.95: a classy Burgundy, 12.5% ABV, priced for Ontario. All-purpose pinot. QPR: 89.

7.Chateau Fontenelles Cuvee Renaissance 2010 Corbieres, +148692, $18.95: juicy in the North American appeal style, 14% ABV, largely syrah. Gold Medalist. QPR: 89.

8.Santa Duc Les Vieilles Vignes Cotes du Rhone 2009, +101543, $15.95: pretty good depth (old vines) and smokey toast. One to keep for awhile. QPR: 89.

9.Apollonio Squinzano 2008 Puglia, +362475, $17.95: Gold Medalist, 14% ABV, heavy-heavy density of ripe plums, mocha and darker fruit. "CalItal" comes to mind. QPR: 89.

10.Morgante Nero d'Avola 2011 IGT Sicilia, +40816, $16.95: deep and delicious, off-dry fruit feel, but best with food. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

11.Bodegas Olarra Anares Reserva 2006 Rioja, +244723, $19.95: hard to beat this price point for a Rioja Reserva that is now 7.5 years old, and remains MVC delicious (mocha, smoke, plums) at 14% ABV. QPR: 90.

12.Lan Crianza 2010 Rioja, +166538, $15.95: the procession of valued Spanish reds continue with this notable traditional Rioja, 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +33936, $30 retail.

2.Domaine du Chardonnay Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2010, +365106, $29.95.

3.Pascal Marchand Tawse Meursault 2011, +285866, $66.95.

4.Domaine Franck Millet Sancerre 2012, +297879, $26.95.

5.Farina Gran Colegiata Roble Frances Crianza 2008, +358796, $24.95.

6.Mitchell McNicol Shiraz 2004 Clare Valley So Australia, +278572, $44.95.

7.Domaine Vincent Prunier Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru 2010, +356949, $57.95.

8.G.D.Vajra Albe Barolo 2008, +179879, $39.95.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

14.WEEKNIGHT FRESH & FAST; simple, healthy meals for every night of the week (Weldon Owen, 2011, 2013, distr. Simon & Schuster, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-686-6, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Kristine Kidd, once food editor of Bon Appetit – for over two decades. This 2013 paperback reprint is the same as the 2011 edition; it restores it to print, with added stickers. The book covers some 100 quick ideas for dinner, much like Krieger's book above. It is in the Williams-Sonoma series of cookbooks for Weldon Owen publishers. The arrangement is by season, beginning with spring. It is loaded with tips for fresh and fast meals – well worth a look. Try spice-scented roast chicken and vegetables, clams with white beans and fennel, grilled shrimp and summer squash, or Asian-styled tofu-rice-broccoli salad. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents. Nice exciting photography of the plated dish. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

15.GLUTEN-FREE 101; the essential beginner's guide to easy gluten-free cooking (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-53912-5, $19.99 US paper back) is by Carol Fenster, author of ten other cookbooks, including 1,000 Gluten-Free Recipes. Here she has 175 preps for everyday family dishes: pancakes, muffins, pizza, fried chicken, banana bread, cookies, cupcakes. The book has been around for a decade; it was last printed up in 2008 by Savory Palate publishers. As the author notes, these preps have been reviewed, revised, rewritten and reworked over the years, with input mainly from her students. It is also 30 preps larger. There are more whole-grain recipes, more dried bean and legume preps, more time saving techniques, more small meals, and more menus. She gives a framework for gluten-free flours and starches, including a recipe for a flour blend than uses sorghum, potato starch, and tapioca flours. This book is better than many other gluten-free books since the emphasis is on wheat/barley/rye replacement in breaded products. You could try some French bread or pumpernickel bread. I also like the fact that the largest typeface in the book has been reserved for the index, so you don't have to squint. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There are also nutrient data for each recipe. Quality/price rating: 90.

 

 

 

16.KEEP CALM AND SLOW COOK (Thunder Bay Press, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-60710-926-6, $19.95 CDN hard covers) is a strange publication: distributed in Canada by Raincoast but  published by Thunder Bay Press (Baker & Taylor imprint) and produced by Collins & Brown (Anova Books imprint of the UK), with a copyright for The National Magazine Company Ltd. The cataloguing data shows a Barbara Dixon as author, but otherwise she is nowhere to be found. The verso lists many photographers (so the pictures were leased?) and a dozen home economists and five food stylists. It is what we used to call in library land "bibliographically untidy". At least it has an index! Other than that, it is a hard bound collection of slow cook/braised recipes, ranging from tasty soups through fish, chicken, meats, veggies, and sweets. There is a chapter on slow cookers, but otherwise the book is about braises. No introduction is needed, apparently. Each prep has timings, service numbers, some minimal nutrition data, an indication of ease, and cook's tip. Try pasta and chickpea soup with pesto, or honey pork with roast potatoes and apples, or caramelized onion and goat cheese tart. The more than 100 preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 84.

 

 

 

17.KEEP CALM AND VEG(ETARIAN) (Thunder Bay Press, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-60710-927-3, $19.95 CDN hard covers) is a strange publication: distributed in Canada by Raincoast but  published by Thunder Bay Press (Baker & Taylor imprint) and produced by Collins & Brown (Anova Books imprint of the UK), with a copyright for The National Magazine Company Ltd. The cataloguing data shows a Barbara Dixon as author, but otherwise she is nowhere to be found. The verso lists many photographers (so the pictures were leased?) and eleven home economists and six food stylists. It is what we used to call in library land "bibliographically untidy". At least it has an index! Other than that, it is a hard bound collection of vegetarian dishes, ranging from tasty soups through light bites, sides, mains, egg and cheese dishes, legumes, grains, pastas and pizzas, pies, pastries, breads and desserts. No introduction is needed, apparently. Each prep has timings, service numbers, some minimal nutrition data, an indication of ease, and cook's tip. Try

endive-blue cheese-walnut salad, cheese scone twists, roasted Mediterranean veggies, or artichoke and mushroom lasagna. The more than 100 preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Quality/price rating: 84.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

9.WEEKNIGHT WONDERS; delicious, healthy dinners in 30 minutes or less (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-40949-7, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Ellie Krieger, host of the Food Network's Healthy Appetite. She's also a registered dietician who has a Beard Award for a previous cookbook (The Food You Crave). Here, with log rolling from both Jacques Pepin and a "Food Network star", she gives us some 150 easy to prepare dishes for the busy cook who comes home late. Every prep can be done in 30 minutes or less, with an emphasis on fresh and flavour. From among the fish dishes, try pistachio-crusted tilapia, pasta in creamy tuna sauce with arugula, or mojito mahi mahi with mango and avocado. Of course, it helps to have the right ingredients handy, so there is advanced work in maintaining some kind of pantry inventory. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Nutritional data is given for each prep, and concludes serving sizes, calories, a breakdown of nutrients, and a an indication of how excellent the dish is as a source. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

10.THE POUND A DAY DIET (Grand Central Life & Style, 2014; distr. Hachette, 298 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-2367-2, $26 US hard covers) is By Rocco DiSpirito, a former restauranteur who created Union Pacific in NYC and currently hosts "Restaurant Divided" on the Food Network. He's also written nine cookbooks; this is his tenth. Most of his books advocate weight reduction. Here he takes it more slowly, but the cover does scream out: "lose up to 5 pounds in 5 days by eating the foods you love". It comes with a forward by a medical doctor. There's a large disclaimer, beginning with the words "This publication is intended to provide helpful and informative material...". He says over 95% of the participants who followed the program as specified lost 6 pounds of fat in the first week. Then he goes on to say that all of the participants maintained or lost more weight  after going off the diet. It is basically a low-cal six-meal-per-day program, with little or no cooking or exercise. One of the keys is the weekend: go wild. So you are five days on and two days off, repeatable for as long as you want. As I lifelong dieter, I find the idea intriguing, but I also realize that the first five pounds off is mainly water. Still, there are 60 quick preps here, most with five ingredients or less. The important principle here is always to have a plan and to stick with it. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Nutrient contents are listed for each recipe. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

11.TARTINE BOOK NO. 3: modern ancient classic whole (Chronicle Books, 2013, 336 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1430-9, $40 US hard covers) is by Chad Robertson co-founder of Tartine Bakery in San Francisco. As the title says, it is number three in the series of baking books. He's also a Beard Award winner. This current book looks to ancient grains and flavours in a modern interpretation. So there are 85 recipes for whole-grain versions of Tartine specialties. There are also preps for porridge breads and sprouted grain breads. There are also some previous Tartine pastry recipes redone with whole gains and nut milks. Maybe next time Robertson could also redo everything with gluten-free flours – wouldn't that be a treat!! Bread reparations have their ingredients listed in baker's percentages and by metric weight. Other recipes have both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Try the sprouted emmer with maple and beer, or rye porridge. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

12.MIRAVAL'S SWEET & SAVORY COOKING (Hay House, 2014; distr. Raincoast, 206 pages, ISBN 978-1-4019-4190-1, $29.95 US hard covers) is by husband and wife Justine Cline Macy and Kim Macy, both culinary teachers and TV personalities – but also executive chef and pastry chef (respectively) at the Miraval Resort & Spa in Tucson Arizona. This is food that conforms to well-being and delicious treatments. It is also known as "spa food", and it is very useful to get you on track again. Sweet and savoury actually have no meaning (since all food is either sweet or savoury), except to indicate that there are items here for every type of course which includes a sweetener and/or salt. It is a complete package, as you find in a spa, with Kim's breakfasts, quick breads, yeast breads, cookies, bars, baked goods, cakes, custards, and Justin's soups, salads, appetizers, and mains. Both contribute side dishes. Along the way there are some pix and text about the resort, about the staff, and plated foods. It's a very nice package if you have ever been to a spa. Try some parmesan and olive crackers (gluten-free) or quinoa fettuccine with seasonal veggies. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of equivalents at the back. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

13.COWGIRL CREAMERY COOKS (Chronicle Books, 2013,  256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1163-6, $35 US hard covers) is by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, a farmstead cheese producer in Point Reyes California. It is mostly cows' milk as the name implies, with some sheep and goat. The book has the story of the artisanal creamery and how it evolved into a force within the organic food movement. It's also got strong log rolling from Ina Garten, David Tanis and Suzanne Goin. There are 75 apps, soups, salads, snacks, mains, and desserts: Earl Grey panna cotta, chilled garlic and asparagus soup with crème fraiche, and blue butter on grilled rib-eye. The arrangement is by type of cheese, with preps for various parts of the meal strewn about each chapter. There's even a glossary. Material about cheeses include accompaniments for cheese, tasting, sorting, aging, pairing beverages, serving, storage – even a discussion about rinds. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JANUARY, 2014

 

2.THE HOME BREWER'S GUIDE TO VINTAGE BEER (Quarry Books, 2014, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-59253-882-9, $24.99 US spiral bound) is by Ronald Pattinson, a brewing historian now based in Amsterdam. He has collaborated on new batches of old beers with a variety of beer bloggers and craft brewers. This current work contains rediscovered recipes for classic brews dating from 1800 to 1965. This historical collection, also with modernized preps, allows you recreate the originals or adapt them to suit your own palate. It is mainly British in orientation, with chapters devoted to porter, stout, IPA, Scottish ales, pale ales/bitters, stock ale, and then moving on to light and European beers – all in 12 chapters. There are profiles for each beer, plus of course the recipes. There's an 1880 Whitbread FA, a 1910 Fuller's AK, an 1804 Barclay Perkins TT porter, an 1853 Younger XP, and a 1868 Tetley East India Pale Ale – 100 in all. The first 35 pages deal with brewing techniques and ingredients; there are also historical photos and label reproductions strewn about. At the end there is a glossary, a weights and measures conversion chart, and an index.

Audience and level of use: beer makers, libraries.

Some interesting or unusual facts: "Where rice was used extensively in the late nineteenth century might come as a surprise: Germany. The Reinheitsgebot was applied to the whole of Germany only in 1906".

The downside to this book: while the spiral binding is a plus for laying flat, it also leads to vandalism in libraries and bookstores. It may be safer to order it online.

The upside to this book: each chapter is preceded by a generous history of the style of beer.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

3.THE ALL-NEW VEGETARIAN PASSPORT; 350 healthy recipes inspired by global cuisines Whitecap, 2013, 432 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-179-9, $34.95 CDN paper covers) is by Linda Woolven, who specializes in natural health writing (she's written or co-authored more than six books, appeared in broadcasting, and has written newsletters and articles). Here she promotes the vegetarian diet which is higher in fibre, nutrients and anti-oxidants, and lower in bad fats – than meat-based diets. There is a lot of general health material as well as signpost logos which are attached to each prep: logos indicating that the dish is good for fighting cancer, or candida, celiac disease, diabetes, gout, heart disease, memory loss, multiple sclerosis, osteoarthritis, and/or rheumatoid arthritis. There is also a sign for indicating that the dish is vegan. The arrangement of the recipes is by region: North Africa and the Middle East, the Mediterranean, Europe, India, Asia, Latin America, North America – with a separate chapter for desserts and beverages. There's a glossary and some pantry advice. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: vegetarians, those needing more natural health.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Greek feta, kefalotiri, and kale bake; pasta with chard and feta; grilled Asian vegetables; Mexican black bean soup; kidney bean and salsa salad; red potato, onion and celeriac salad.

The downside to this book: this book could get heavy use, and the binding may become less secure with time.

The upside to this book: the glossary and the signposts.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

4.WEEKNIGHT GLUTEN FREE; simple, healthy meals for every night of the week (Weldon Owen, 2013; distr. Simon & Schuster, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-687-3, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Kristine Kidd, once food editor of Bon Appetit – for over two decades. It includes over 100 preps plus advice for the gluten-free lifestyle. She emphasizes cooking with the seasons, although the book is arranged by main ingredient (almost meatless, seafood, poultry, meat) followed by desserts. If you have gluten-intolerance you'll need to read packaging and labels carefully. Otherwise, you avoid wheat, barley, and rye (so this includes barley beer as well). The hardest part is bread-avoidance and cooking with flours. There is not much you can do about replacing the "chew" in breads, and the inventory for flours can be onerous in space. But this is still a nifty quick and easy cookbook for the weeknight. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: gluten-free eaters.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lamb burgers with mint Greek salad topping; grilled skirt steak with Thai cucumber and peanut salad; quick herb-roasted pork and sweet potatoes; chopped salad with chicken, citrus, and avocado.

The downside to this book: not enough breaded substitutes.

The upside to this book: goods photography on the plating.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

5.PALEO ON A BUDGET; saving money, eating healthy (Front Table Books, 2013, 198 pages, ISBN 978-1-4621-1327-9, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Elizabeth McGaw, blogger at www.paleoonabudget.com from whence is derived this print book. It is, of course, dedicated to the paleo diet for the budget-conscious. The stress is on meat, eggs, nuts, vegetables and fruits in balance. Overall, the selection of food is based on being wallet-friendly, and also being healthy. But it is still a diet book, meant for everyday meals. The arrangement is by course – breakfast, soups/salads, snacks/sides, fish, chicken, meat, and "splurges". Paleo 101 and basic preps cover the first third of the book. She does her own photography, which is quite good. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: paleo dieters and other looking for healthy budget food.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: coconut pumpkin cookies; panzanella salad; baked scallops; zucchini boats; almond butter truffles; broken-down burrito.

The downside to this book: I think it needs more recipes.

The upside to this book: nice looking index, with a large typeface and leading.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

 

6.STUFFED; the ultimate comfort food cookbook (Page Street, 2014, 206 pages, ISBN 978-1-62414-011-2, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Dan Whalen, creator-blogger for www.thefoodinmybeard.com. As he explains, this book takes your fave comfort foods to the next level with extreme stuffed recipes. There are some log rolling endorsements, such as one from "Eater Boston". The idea is to combine popular foods, stuffing one with the other. So for mac and cheese, there are lobster stuffed fried mac and cheese balls, mac and cheese chile rellenos, mac and cheese raviolis, and mac and cheese stuffed burger (I don't suppose you would want to stuff macaroni? Too labour intensive). I find a little goes a long way, but the ideas are sound and useful. Arrangement is by main ingredient, so you have stuffed breads (sandwiches?), stuffed pasta/rice, stuffed meats, stuffed veggies/fruits, and stuffed sweets. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Good typeface size and leading in the index, and the pages lie flat.

Audience and level of use: home cooks, probably male.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lasagna timpano; avocado eclairs; bacon avocado chicken salad stuffed tomatoes; jalapeno popper dog; turducken (of course); cheeseburger ravioli burger. Sfogliatelle and Epic Timpano too (although each could use a photo).

The downside to this book: a little goes a long way, but then comfort food is limiting.

The upside to this book: I love the way the book lies flat due to the page work from premium binding (stays open, hands free)

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

7. THE ARTISAN FOOD ENTREPRENEUR; profiles in passion and success (WWW Press - Quarry Books, 2014, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-59253-894-2, $26.99 US paper covers) is by Jo Packham, President of Chapelle which publishes magazines such as Where Women Create and Where Women Cook. Here she presents success stories of 20 top professional small business women in the US artisanal food business. These are bios with pix of food entrepreneurs; typical businesses include The Santa Fe School of Cooking, Slide Ridge Honey, Queen City Cookies, and Dry Soda. These are stories of successful restaurant owners, caterers, farmers, bakers, and beekeepers among other occupations. Some of them are Beard winners, other are Child winners, some have a "top food blog", another has authored multiple cookbooks.

Audience and level of use: business schools, hospitality schools looking for role models.

The downside to this book:

The upside to this book:

Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

8. STRAIGHT FROM THE EARTH; irresistible vegan recipes for everyone (Chronicle Books, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1269-5, $27.50 US soft covers) is by the mother-daughter team of Myra Goodman and Marea Goodman. Myra is the co-founder of Earthbound Farm. Here they advocate a plant-based diet, and since everything from their California business is organic, all the veggies should also be organic. There is some memoir-ish material about their lifestyle and vegans, followed by cooking tips and an arrangement of courses or ingredients. First up is breakfast, followed by salads, soups, apps, entrees, sides and desserts. At the end, there are the appendices: 11 theme menus and metric conversion charts, plus a chart on greenhouse gas emissions for common foods (the highest id=s for lamb, the lowest is for lentils and tomatoes). The 90 or so preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly avoirdupois measurements with some metric by weight, but there are tables of equivalents. Each recipes comes with nutritional data, and there are also some cooking charts.

Audience and level of use: great for vegetarians and vegans.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Thai fresh spring rolls with peanut dipping sauce; pasta with creamy mushroom sauce; grilled fig sandwiches roasted pistachio pesto and balsamic caramelized onions; cabbage and carrot crunch salad.

The downside to this book: nothing really.

The upside to this book: straightforward, easy-to-read, uncomplicated.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD AND DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1.THE CANADIAN CRAFT BEER COOKBOOK (Whitecap, 2013, 184 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-193-5, $29.95 CDN soft covers) is by David Ort, a food and beer writer in Toronto (PostCity.com, TorontoLife.com, SpotlightToronto.com). Here he has developed preps for craft beers that can be found locally just about anywhere in Canada, ranging from abbey ale, India pale ale, barley wine, witbier, pilsen, brown, lager, bock – the full panoply. There is a rundown on pairing beers with food, and 75 or so preps for the full range of apps through salads, mains, desserts. Each has specific beer recommendations, so you might have to look around for comparable local brands. There are even some beer cocktails. The usual and expected are here: welsh rarebit, Flemish beef stew, stout braised lamb shanks. But there are also some new and welcomed interpretations. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: beer drinkers; cooks wanting to use beer and bittering agents.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: currywurst; brownies with spiced ale chocolate sauce; rapini with dopplebock; soba salad with sriracha dressing; witbier onion rings; IPA guacamole.

The downside to this book: there are a lot of pictures and some interesting profiles of people, but I would have appreciated more recipes in these spaces. The aim should have been for over 100 recipes.

The upside to this book: there's a bibliography for more reading and recipes.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Australia Today 2014 Trade Show and Seminar, Feb 6/14

The Date and Time: Thursday, February 6, 2014  12:30 Pm to 5 PM

The Event: Australia Today 2014 Trade Show and Seminar

The Venue:AGO

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines are landed at the LCBO or in Consignment. The balance were private orders (PO) with estimated prices.

The Quote/Background: There was a seminar at 12:30, with an extensive waiting list so it was jam packed. John Szabo and Mark Davidson led the presentation which stressed evolving classics of distinct wines (chardonnay, pinot noir, and shiraz), primarily from Victoria. There were also "focus" tables in the trade area, showcasing old vines and chardonnays.

The Wines: I have folded in the seminar wines with the trade wines. I did not try every wine.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Yering Station Reserve Chardonnay 2012 Yerra Valley

-Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 Mornington, $50

-Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir 2009 Mornington

-Fowles Wine Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2010 Strathbogie Ranges, $35

-Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2008 Eden Valley

-Camelback Sunbury Shiraz 2008 Victoria, $24.95

-Stella Bella Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 Margaret River, $32

-Hardy's Heritage Reserve Bin Chardonnay 2011 Pemberton and Yarra, $30 PO Mondia

-Mitolo Wines Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 McLaren, $52.95

-Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2012 Adelaide Hills, $40 PO Select

-Schild Estate Edgar Schild Reserve Grenache 2012 Barossa, $54 PO Halpern

-Shaw + Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $24.95 Lifford

-Saltram Winemakers Reserve Select Shiraz Tempranillo 2010 Barossa, $44.95

-Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Margaret River, $49.95

-Yalumba Old Bush Vine Grenache 2012 Barossa, $24.95

-Penfolds Magill Estate Estate 2010 Barossa, $119.95 PO Treasury

-Yabby Lake Block 1 Chardonnay 2012 Mornington Peninsula, $85 PO Von Terra

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Wolf Blass White Label Chardonnay 2012 Adelaide Hills

-Yering Station Village Pinot Noir 2011 Yarra Valley

-Jamsheed Garden Gully Syrah 2012 Great Western, $60 PO Living Vine

-Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2005 Canberra District

-Brothers in Arms Side by Side Malbec 2012 Langhorne Creek, $37.75 PO Sylvestre

-Brothers in Arms No. 6 Shiraz 2009 Langhorne Creek, $26.65 PO

-Brothers in Arms No. 6 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Langhorne Creek, $26.65 PO

-Stella Bella Chardonnay 2010 2009 Margaret River, $32

-Grant Burge Fisell Shiraz 2011 Barossa, $32.95 PO Trialto

-Grant Burge Corryton Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Barossa, $32.95 PO Trialto

-Heggies Eden Valley Chardonnay 2012, $34 PO Charton Hobbs

-Ringbolt 21 Barriques Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Margaret River, $44.95

-Jacob's Creek Reserve Chardonnay 2013 Adelaide Hills, $14.95

-Jamsheed Garden Gully Riesling 2013 Victoria, $40 PO Living Vine

-Jamsheed Beechworth Syrah 2012, $60

-Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Shiraz 2011 Clare, $39.95

-Mitolo Wines G.A.M. Shiraz 2010 McLaren, $39.95

-St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz 2010 Barossa, $45

-Robert Oatley Signature Series Chardonnay 2012 Margaret River, $17.95.

-Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay 2012, $42.95 Lifford

-Shaw + Smith Shiraz 2010, $42.95 Lifford

-Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz 2010 McLaren, $34.95

-Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Coonawarra, $27.95

-Vasse Felix Heytesbury Cabernet Petit Verdot Malbec 2010 Margaret River, $94.95

-Yalumba The Y Series Vermentino 2011 South Australia, $19.95

-Yalumba Menzies The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Coonawarra, $44.95

-Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Shiraz 2009 Barossa, $67.95 PO B&W

-Wolf Blass Gold Label Chardonnay 2012 Adelaide Hills, $22.95

-Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2008 Tasmania and Adelaide Hills, $125

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Stonier Chardonnay 2012 Mornington Peninsula, $30

-Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2012 Yarra Valley, $29.95

-Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Prodigal Grenache 2012 Clare Valley, $29.95 PO Charton Hobbs

-Hardy's Tintara Shiraz 2012 McLaren Vale, $30 PO Mondia

-Henry's Drive Morse Code Chardonnay 2010 Padthaway, $13.95 PO Christopher Stewart

-Henry's Drive H Syrah 2012 Padthaway, $26.95 PO Christopher Stewart

-Jamsheed Harem Le Blanc Plonk Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Victoria, $26 PO Living Vine

-Jamsheed Harem La Syrah 2013 Victoria, $26 PO Living Vine

-Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Covenant Shiraz 2012 Clare, $39.95 PO Charton Hobbs

-Nugan Estate Alfred Dried Grape Shiraz 2012 SEA, $26.95

-Shingleback Davey Estate Shiraz 2011 McLaren, $24.95 PO Lifford

-Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2011 Margaret River, $27.95

-Hill Smith Estate Chardonnay 2010 Eden Valley, $19.95

 

The Food: international cheeses and breads, and panforte.

The Downside: we had to wait a half hour for the seminar to begin, but after tasting the wines I slipped out early to catch the show at 2PM.

The Upside: the seminar was extremely valuable, at least for letting me taste 12 wines ahead of the show itself (some of these wines were not even in the show).

The Contact Person: emily.england@wineaustralia.com; angela.slade@wineaustralia.com; popoffanne@gmail.com.

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

APVSA Tasting in Toronto

The Date and Time: Tuesday, January 14, 2014  11AM to 4PM

The Event: the bi-monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des

vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Eaton Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the

principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to

comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such

places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,

Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show

will have wines from Canada, Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia.

Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available.

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be

acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines

that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be

any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made

available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few

have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good

value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB

cost. I did not try every wine, even though there were winery assistants this time.

The Wines: Prices are FOB. I did not taste every product.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Parigot Pommard Les Riottes 2011

-Champagne Waris Hubert Grand Cru Chardonnay, 13.5E

-Champagne Waris Hubert Blanc de Noirs Pinot Noir, 12E

-Champagne Waris Hubert Grand Cru Chardonnay Millesime, 18E

-Champagne Moussy Brut Classique Edition 2007, 10.40E

-Champagne Moussy Brut Cuvee de Reserve Edition 2007, 10.40E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Brut Tradition, 13.60E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Rose Brut, 15E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Prestige, 17.50E

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Les Jumeaux 2012 Blanc

-Chateau de Thauvenay Sancerre 2012, 7.10E

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price

Rating terms):

-Chateau la Caderie Authentique 2008 Rouge Bordeaux, 4.83E

-Chateau la Caderie Authentique 2010 Rouge Bordeaux, 4.83E

-Domaine Parigot Pommard 1er cru Les Charmots 2011

-Domaine Parigot Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Clos de la Perriere 2011

-Chateau Montana Dialogue Cotes du Roussillon 2012, 2.90E

-Chateau Montana La Rouge Eternel Dialogue Cotes du Roussillon 2012, 3.50E

-Chateau Montana Cotes du Roussillon 2011, 5.50E

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Aiguillettes 2013 Blanc

-Chateau de Thauvenay Les Vignes du Baron Sancerre 2012, 5.72E

-Domaine de la Mayonette Cotes de Provence 2012 Rose, 3.50E

-Domaine de la Mayonette Cotes de Provence 2012 Blanc, 3.50E

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Nimois Nitoi 2012 Rouge [Rhone], 2.85E

-Domaine du Vistre Cuvee de Gladiateur AOP Costieres de Nimes 2009 Rouge

-Domaine du Vistre Cuvee de Gladiateur AOP Costieres de Nimes 2012 Rouge

-Chateau Landra Ventoux Les Boutieres 2010 Rouge

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Joncy Coteaux Bourguignone 2013 Rouge

-Chateau la Caderie Expression 2012 Rouge Bordeaux, 3.52E

-Chateau de Garde Bordeaux 2008 Rouge, 3.01E

-Chateau de Garde Bordeaux 2008 Blanc, 2.51E

-Domaine de la Mayonette 2012 Rose, 2E

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Numa 2011 Rouge [Rhone], 4.75E

-Chateau Landra Ventoux 2011 Rouge

-Chateau Landra Ventoux 2011 Blanc

 

The Food: great hot pizzas, which went well with the wines, as always.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):

85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Annual Dinner, Jan 20, 2014

The Date and Time: Monday, January 20, 2014  6:15PM to midnight

The Event: the annual dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada, attended by members and their partners. It was terrifically well-organized by member Sheila Swerling-Puritt, an event planner/opinion maker who is also a WWCC member.

The Venue: Le Paradis

The Target Audience: ourselves – private party, for which we actually pay money.

The Availability/Catalogue: only one wine was available to all – a generous donation of six well-received Bottega sparklers (three proseccos and three roses) for the reception, accompanied by mushrooms on gaufettes and other canapes.

The Quote/Background: we get together every year in January for a dinner at some great restaurant in Toronto (previously, Edo, Tutti Matti, Mistura, Mideastro Bistro, Senses, Hemispheres, Royal York, etc.). In addition to paying for the dinner, each person is responsible for bringing a bottle of "good to great" wine, which is then shared by all.

The Wines:

 

There were a lot of good/great wines with the dinner, too many (over two dozen) to sample and to list – but I was struck by the Chateau Pichon Baron 1998, Trius Grand Reds of 2007 and 1999, the Urla Tempus 2010 from Turkey, the Graham's 30 Year Port, the 1974 Vintage Port, the Yatta white wine from Kenya in a tetrapak, the Cote Rotie 1998, the Kangaroo Springs Shiraz, Pommard, the Brunello, and the copious quantities of different Ontario icewines.

 

The Food: there was a set menu of French bistro food with lots of choices and courses (snails, duck, chicken, fish, salads, etc.). Everybody got a scrumptious grilled veal marrow bone – it certainly brought out the dogs.

The Downside: it was really cold outside.

The Upside: we were in a room all by ourselves, and comfortably fed by David Currie who also provided a great wait staff.

The Contact Person: spuritt@sympatico.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): A plus, of course.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com