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Friday, April 4, 2014

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1.SUPER FRESH JUICES & SMOOTHIES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-493-4, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Nicola Grimes, a former editor of Vegetarian Living magazine and an award-winning British author of more than 25 books. Here she emphasizes flavourful beverages for all occasions, such as pick-me-up, a detoxifier, a weight-loss aid or an anti-ageing rejuvenator. Fresh fruit and veggies are augmented in most cases by a variety of superfoods such as spirulina. wheatgrass, maca, baobab, lacuma, acai berries, chia seeds, and raw cacao – to name a few. And these are all going to be better for you than store-bought shelf-sitters. Over 100 recipes are presented – with no additives, no sugar, and no pasteurization. She's got the usual introductory material on buying a juicer or blender, what superfoods are, seasonal foods, and shopping tips. Other areas covered include making yogurt and nut milks, sprouting beans and seeds. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those seeking nutritional beverages.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: apple zinger; breakfast booster; purple days; smooth as a peach; cherry aid; berry good; vanilla shake; virgin apple mojito; aniseed twist.
The downside to this book: too much colourful photography gives the book a party atmosphere, which may have also led to a disclaimer re: children.
The upside to this book: there is a list of both UK and US suppliers.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, April 3, 2014

KITCHEN WORKSHOP: PIZZA COOKBOOK

KITCHEN WORKSHOP: PIZZA; hands-on cooking lessons for making amazing pizza at home (Quarry Books, 2014, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-59253-883-6, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Ruth Gresser, owner of Pizzeria Paradiso (since 1991) in Washington, DC. It's being touted as a complete pizza kitchen manual, detailing all the techniques and skills needed to produce pizza at home. It is loosely arranged by level of difficulty: basics (seven variations on tomato-cheese style, including a gluten-free one), the "classics" (margherita, quattro formaggi, calzone), a selection of originals from the pizzeria, and  chapters for creating your own (seven sauces, seven protein toppings, seven veggies, and seven fruit). That's 49 in all, a good number to begin with. It is a nice book, easy to use, and is clearly meant for those who are bored with eating out of a box or doing takeout. Inviting food photos too. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Bouchard & Fevre Burgundy Tasting, March 24, RCYC

 
The Date and Time: Monday, March 24, 2014  11AM to 3PM
The Event: A review of the 2012 Vintage in Burgundy, from Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre Chablis, plus Villa Ponciago in Fleurie.
The Venue: RCYC St. George
The Target Audience: wine trade, private clients
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available via special order, or is already at the LCBO.
The Quote/Background: It was a challenging vintage, said M. Bouchard. Volumes were down 25% in Nuits and 50% in Beaune. It took a winemaker's skill to produce concentrated wines that may take time to come around.
The Wines: There were over 25 high end wines plus some others at the LCBO and Vintages.
I did not taste every wine since I had to leave early.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2012, $123
-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2012, $143
-William Fevre Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru 2012, $58
-Champagne Henriot Brut Rose NV, $89.95
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Pouilly Fuisse 2012, +51466, $27.90
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune de Chateau Rouge 1er Cru 2009, +325142, $36.90
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Nuit St Georges Les Cailles 1er Cru, $146
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Chambolle Musigny, $76
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru, $130
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru, $119
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Montagny 1er Cru Cote Chalonnaise, $79
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Villa Ponciago Grand Cuvee La Roche Muriers 2011, $60
-William Fevre Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru 2011, $45.95
-William Fevre Chablis Villages Saint Bris 2012, $25 [sauvignon blanc]
-William Fevre Chablis Monte de Milieu 1er Cru 2012, $69
-William Fevre Chablis Montmains 1er Cru 2012, $58
-William Fevre Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru 2012, $58
-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2012, $97
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Macon-Lugny Saint-Pierre, +51573, $15.95
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2011 Meursault, $28.95 375 mL
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2011 Cote de Beaune Villages, +714998, $24.95
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2010 Pommard, $30 375 mL
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Chambertin-Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru, $406
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Le Corton Grand Cru, $175
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Beaune Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus 1er Cru, $149
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Pommard Rugiens 1er Cru, $120
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Savigny les Beaune les Lavieres 1er Cru, $62
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1er Cru, $111
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Gevrey Chambertin, $66
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, $250
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Meursault Les Clous, $64
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Puligny-Montrachet, $79
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Bouzeron Cote Chalonnaise, $28
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-William Fevre Chablis Royaux 2012, +27643, $21.95
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2011 Gevrey Chambertin, +661330, $49.95
-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Beaune Clos de la Mousse 1er Cru, $76
 
The Food: international gourmet cheeses, dried fruit, toasts, crackers.
The Downside: I had to leave early.
The Upside: my one big chance to look at the 2012 vintage in Burgundy.
The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Tasting Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck Champagnes at Select Wines, March 31...

The Date and Time: Monday, March 31, 2014  10AM to noon
The Event: a tasting of Champagnes from Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck
The Venue: Select Wines offices, Queen Street
The Target Audience: some wine writers and sales staff.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are in the LCBO now or will be through the year.
The Quote/Background: Piper-Heidsieck winemaker Regis Camus made a quick stop in Toronto, and offered an impromptu tasting for four P-H Champagnes. Since P-H and Charles Heidsieck are owned by the same company, Select added four C H wines to the tasting – eight Champagnes in all, NVs, vintaged, rose and top-of-the-line vintaged. M. Camus spoke to the wines via a translator, telling us a little bit about each vintage and packaging details on bottle shapes. M. Camus ha been instrumental in reinventing Piper-Heidseick, with new techniques and changes in the reserve wines, a maturation change from the regulatory 15 months to a minimum of 24 months, and then to keep back the wines a minimum of three months after disgorging. He was named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year in 2013 (by the International Wine Cellars UK), for the eighth time since 2004 with seven consecutive times in a row. After he left, we tasted Charles Heidsieck Champagnes. Changes had been afoot there too as well: they now select from fewer crus (60, down from 120), the average years of aging for the reserves are at 10 instead of 8, and the extra years of aging in the bottle has moved from five to six. Charles Heidsieck is leading the way with bottle shape changes, becoming more of a pot shape, to distinguish it from other sparkling wines and to make it look more rustic and historical.
 
The Wines:
 
***** SUPERIOR – Five Stars (95+ in Quality):
-Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millesime 2002, +380315 Nov 2014 Vintages, $259.95 [chardonnay and pinot noir]
-Charles Heidsieck Millesime 2000 Brut, +52449, $99.95 [58% pinot noir, 42% chardonnay, 12 years aging before release]
-Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995, $264.75 [15 years aging before release]
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91- 94 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2006, $79.95 [pinot noir and chardonnay]
-Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV, +36962, $71 [40% reserve wine]
-Charles Heidsieck Rose Reserve NV, $84.95 [20% reserve wine and 5% red wine]
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Piper-Heidsieck Cuvee Brut NV, +462432, $54.95 [pinots noir and meunier]
-Piper-Heidsieck Rose Sauvage Brut NV, $69.95 [pinots noir and meunier]
 
The Food: croissants, gourmet breads, fresh fruit.
The Downside: a translator had to be provided; this slowed down the proceedings.
The Upside: a chance to taste some expensive Champagnes
The Contact Person: catherine@catchcom.ca; prodhon@selectwines.ca; haddleton@selectwines.ca.
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, March 31, 2014

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH –

-ENRICO SERAFINO BARBARESCO DOCG 2010, +341156, $20.85 LCBO: a good example of competition, with a lower priced Barbaresco produced by Campari. It's been aged for three years already, and exhibits spices in a rich but austere format – best with food (anything Italian, roasts, cheeses). It is a heavy nebbiolo wine, and could still use some aging. The lower price may mean that you need to so some work yourself, such as letting it cellar for a few more years. Well worth the effort for this old style wine. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-TENUTE DI TOSCANA CARIONE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2008 DOCG, +266668, $30.05 LCBO: wow, this is a general listed wine that has already seen five years plus of aging. It replaces the 2006 vintage, which had six years on it when first released at the LCBO. The rich texture lends to complexity in a new style Brunello, more acceptable to the North American market: ripe and fruity but with that Sangiovese depth of cherry fruit. 14%. Hard to find any kind of Brunello at this price point. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-SENSI VIGNE VINI BORGO BELLO BOLGHERI 2010 DOC TUSCANY, +341123, $18.80 LCBO: Bolgheri wines are very popular now that they show very well against supertuscan wines. They have DOC legally allowable cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the blend, along with sangiovese – the mix we find in expensive supertuscans costing upwards of $100 or more. Bolgheris might not do it better than supertuscans, but they approach them as "baby" supertuscans. This one shows fruit and spice, great North American appeal in that merlot is recognizable, modest tannins, balanced on the mid-palate, okay by itself or with food. Bolgheri is my fave supertuscan styled wine, and this one is no exception, especially for its low price under $20. Nicely aged for three years, 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2013 VQA NOTL, $14.95
Vintages +333260: this fresh and vibrant rose continues to please year
over year. Here it is 100% pinot noir, dry "old style", loaded with Ontario
cranberry and red fruit strawberry tones, coming in at 13% ABV. Stainless steel
of course, and twist top. Refreshing, just bottled. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 VQA NOTL, $14.95 +370320: from a nice ripe year, loaded with choco-berry and mocha tones. 10 months in French oak, but still done in a Euro style as a food wine. This may be their first vintage of an entire cab sauvignon; previous bottlings were either Cab-Merlot or St. David's Bench vineyards at almost twice the price. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
From Union Wine VQA Niagara –
 
1.Union White 2012 VQA Niagara, +197145 LCBO, $13.95: a virtual Ontario winery targeting the under-35 demo. It's strength seems to be in blended wines, hence "union".  This one definitely says "summer", as a blend of riesling, unoaked chardonnay, gewurztraminer, sauvignon blanc, and viognier all contribute to the North American-styled blend. 12.5% ABV, twist top, off-dry in what we used to call a (1), and intensely aromatic. Grape ratios may change from year to year, but these are the usual suspects. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
2.Union Gold 2011 VQA Niagara, +351049 LCBO, $14.95: The partnership of Allan Jackson (formerly of Jackson-Triggs) and Andrew von Teichman (of Von Terra wine agency) continues: twist top, 13% ABV, and a serious food wine here. Both the pinot gris (note the use of "gris" which is increasingly being applied to a higher style of pinot grigio) and the chardonnay have been barrel aged, while the aromatic sauvignon blanc and gewurztraminer are made in the tank. The result is a golden colour that is dry and crisp for food, with the edge of oak for complexity. The amount of gewurztraminer is very small, and I would like to taste the wine without its addition, just so I can check on its contribution. Maybe it adds character. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
3.Union Red 2010 VQA Niagara, +197152 LCBO, $13.95: from the noble vintage of 2010, blended from merlot, cabernet (no indication if this is cab franc or cab sauv, so presumably it is both), gamay noir, and pinot noir. 13.5% ABV, twist top. A full-bodied Bordeaux-styled wine, suitable for later courses at the table. Shows some herbs (from the franc?) and black fruit. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
4.Union Noir 2012 VQA Niagara, +277632 LCBO, $15.95: 13.5% ABV, twist top, and packed with upfront red fruit in a light style, better as a patio wine in summer or as a first course wine. Blend of pinot noir and gamay noir, very dry. Best served slightly chilled. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
From Stratus,
 
1.Wildass Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +129700 Vintages, $16.95: a compelling, fresh riesling that is basically a food wine with its lemony-apple citric finish. Best with food. Unoaked, of course. Twist top. 12% ABV. If you keep it a few years, it might get better as an aged riesling would. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
2.Wildass Red 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +86363 Vintages, $19.95: a
delightful wine but not as strong as previous years, comprising syrah
(11%), merlot (28%), cabernet Franc (31%), cabernet sauvignon (18%),
tannat (5%), Tempranillo (3%), sangiovese (1%), and petit verdot (3%). Gamay is also listed on the back label, but it isn't here. The eight red grapes (a real Euro blend) were 100% barrel aged in 11% new oak for 246 days. An exceptionally ripe wine, medium body emphasizing black fruit, coming in at 14.8% ABV. Twist top. Originally introduced for restaurants but now extremely popular as an Ontario red blend. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
3.Wildass White 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +85100 Vintages, $19.95: a blend of some
81% sauvignon blanc, 7% semillon, 6% riesling and 6% gewurztraminer. All barrel aged in second fill French oak for 593 days. Tropical fruitiness is the order of the day,
with the impact of semillon, and gewurztraminer. In addition to the mouth-filling savvy, there are fresh peaches and other orchard fruit (apples, apricots) on display, and a touch of smoothness from the wood. Finishes with good acidity for food too. Twist top. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Rose tasting: one writer's account...

The Date and Time: Friday, March 28, 2014
The Event: a tasting of new and older rose wines available in Ontario.
The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Scrivener Square Private Tasting Room
The Target Audience: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada members, 13 in attendance at self-pour tables.
The Availability/Catalogue: WWCC had assembled some 70 rose wines in play in the Ontario marketplace. About a quarter were sparkling, the balance were Ontario or imported still wines, and others were sweet.
The Quote/Background: WWCC tries to highlight category wines three times a year (usually rose, sparkling, and fortified). This tasting was assembled just ahead of Easter, Mother's Day, graduation days, and summer.
The Wines: I tasted most of the wines, and the notes below reflect only my opinions. I do not speak for the 13 WWCC members that attended.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Sparkling 2010 Methode Classique 234161 $22.95 Constellation [my fave of the tasting, based on QPR=94]

-Champagne Taittinger    Prestige Rose    NV    83.95    993113    Champagne     Family Wine Merchants
-Cono Sur    Sparkling Rose    NV    13.95    365205    Bio Bio Valley Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants
-Château des Charmes    Rosé sparkling Méthode Traditionelle    2011    $28.95 78055    Niagara-on-the-Lake   
-Henry of Pelham    Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut    NV    29.95    217505    Niagara
-Graham Beck Brut Rosé Methode Cap Classique    NV    19.95    175588    Western Cape -Cuvage s.r.l.    Viticolotori Acquesi Brachetto d'Acqui D.O.C.G. Sparkling Rose    NV    $13.95    375667    Piedmont    Select Wines & Spirits
-Union Wines    Union Rose    2013    $13.95    275685    Niagara Peninsula    Von Terra -Malivoire     Moira Rose    2013    $21.95         Beamsville Bench   
-GreenLane Estate Winery    Rosé    2012    $15.95 Lincoln Lakeshore   
-Henry of Pelham    Sibling Rivalry Pink    2013    13.95    171033    Niagara Peninsula
-Henry of Pelham    Rose    2013    12.95    613471    Niagara Peninsula    Henry of Pelham,
-SA Ackerman     Remy Pannier Rose d'Anjou    2012    12.95    12641    Loire    Eurovintage -ANGELS GATE WINERY    ARCHANGEL PINOT NOIR ROSE    2009    25    203034    NIAGARA
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Calamus Estate Winery    StarStruck    2011    $26.95         Niagara    winery
-Calamus Estate Winery    125 Rosé    2012    12.7        Niagara    winery
-Flat Rock Cellars    Pinot Noir Rose    2013    $16.95    39974    Niagara Peninsula
-Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte    Brut Rose    NV    57.95    267039    Champagne    Lifford  -Henry of Pelham    Pink House Wine Company    2013    $12.95     324558    Niagara -Konzelmann Estate Winery    Method Cuve Close - Rose    2010    16.2    184176
-Codorniu    Codorniu Seleccion Raventos Pinot Noir     NV    15.95    370080    Penedes
-Diamond Estates Winery    Fresh Sparkling Rosé $13.95    2012        341347    Niagara   
-Bottega    Il Vino dei Poeti Rose Brut    NV    13    277202    Veneto 
-Bisol    Jeio Cuvee Rose    NV    $13.95    325703    Veneto    Symposium -Creekside Estate    Cabernet Rose    2013    $15.95     48819    Niagara
-Oyster Bay    Sparkling Cuvee Rose    2012    $21.95    280172 Pinot Noir Marlborough
-Miguel Torres Chile    Santa Digna Estelado Rose Sparkling    NV     $19.95     31766
-Ogier    Cotes du Ventoux Rose    2012    10.95    134916    Rhone   
-Château des Charmes Cuvée d'Andrée Rosé    2013    $14.95 333260    Niagara-on-the-Lake   
-Bastianich    Rosato di Refosco Spumante    2012    18.95    Cons        The Vine
-Bodega Norton Malbec Rosado    2013    $10.95    #0367110    Mendoza
-Cono Sur    Bicicleta Pinot Noir Rose    2013    $9.95    318014    Bio Bio Valley
-Concha y Toro    Casillero del Diablo Shiraz Rose    2013    11.95    614016 Central Valley   
-Cave Spring Cellars    Rosé    2012    $14.95    295006    Niagara Peninsula   
-Malivoire     Ladybug Rose    2013    $15.95     559088    Niagara Peninsula
-Featherstone Winery    Rose    2013    14.95    117861    20 Mile Bench   
-Peninsula Ridge    Top Bench Rose VQA    2013    11.95    #324541    Lastiwka Vineyard, Twenty Mile Bench
-Rockway Vineyards    Patio 9 Pink Spritz    2012    $12.95     323766    Ontario   
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Soljans Estate     Fusion Sparkling Rose    NV    $21.75 Kumeu NZ Glen Ward Wines
-Fresita    Fresita    NV    $13.95    138388    Churchill Cellars
-Bernard Massard GmbH    Cuvée de l'Ecusson Brut Rosé Methode Traditionelle    N/V $19.95    369074    Luxembourg    hhdimports
-Julian Chivite    Gran Feudo Rosado    2012    11.95    165845    Navarra    Churchill
-Masi    Rosa dei Masi    2013    15    377267    Venetian    Authentic Wine & Spirits -Sophora    Sophora Sparking Rose    NV    $19.95    353664    Gisborne & Hawkes Bay   
-John Howard Cellars of Distinction    Bubblehead    2011    28.95    363655    Niagara
-Alliance Loire    De Chanceny' Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé    NV    18.8    211466
-Sandbanks Winery    Rosé    2012    12.95    244616    Ontario   
-Di Profio Wines    Gamay Rosé    2012    $15.70     n/a    Niagara    Carollynn Desjardins
-REIF ESTATE WINERY    CABERNET ROSE    2012    $12.95     372466       
-Pelee Island Winery    Pelee Pink    2012    $10.75     529354   
-Rosehall Run     Pixie Sparkling Rose    2012    17.95        Ontario
-Tawse Winery    Tawse Rose    2012    $15.95     N/A - Licensee only   
-Diamond Estates Winery    EastDell Summer Rosé    2012    $11.95     560243    Niagara
-Diamond Estates Winery    Fresh Rosé    2011    $11.95     192633    Niagara
-Ridge Road Winery    Rose    2013    $14.95         Niagara   
-Kacaba Vineyards    Rebecca Rose    2013    $14.95     227025    Niagara Escarpment   
-John Howard Cellars of Distinction    Pink Slip    2013    17.95    85126    Niagara
-Inniskillin Niagara     Pinot Noir Rose    2013    14.95    988133    Niagara   
-Emiliana    Adobe Reserva Rose    2013    11.95    #274399    Rapel Valley
-Francis Ford Coppola Winery    Sofia Rose    2013    19.95    284943 Monterey County Lifford
-Kim Crawford Pansy! Rosé    2013    $17.95     650325    Hawke's Bay   
-Sandbanks Winery    Love    2012    14.95    half-bottle 318394 Ontario [kir]
-MARTINI & ROSSI    Martini Rose NV    $13.95     125765    Piedmont & Veneto
 
The Food: none
The Downside: WWCC got a good response from Niagara. In the imported range there were only 11 still wines. While such wines were slated for early summer release (not late spring), samples were generally not available for media tastings. There were few wines from LENS and PEC.
The Upside: a chance to taste a range of sparkling rose wines as well
The Contact Person: deantudor@deantudor.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.
 
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 29 2014 – BLUE MOON RELEASE

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 29 2014 – BLUE MOON RELEASE
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
WHITE – Coopers Creek Select Vineyards Dillons Point Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Marlborough, +66092, $19.95: a kiwi savvy with a great gusto on the finish, terrific tartish flavours on the mid-palate. Twist top. QPR: 90.
 
RED – Arturo Garcia Solar de Sael Crianza Mencia 2007 Bierzo, +311902, $16.95: well-aged beauty, 14% ABV, made from older vines (80 years old or more), some raisins showing. QPR: 90.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Maison Roche de Bellene Vieilles Vignes Chassagne-Montrachet 2011, +241158, $49.95.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Featherstone Four Feathers 2011 VQA Niagara, +341586, $14.95: an engaging blend of riesling, with sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and gewurztraminer. Orchard fruit all the way, twist top, 12% ABV. A summery wine. QPR: 89.
2.Casa Silva Cuvee Colchagua Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2013, +24216, $14.95: savvy green tones (apples, grass, herbs, gooseberries) are fresh, good with food. Twist top. QPR: 89.
3.Cave du Haut-Poitou Vallee Loire Sauvignon Blanc 2012, +357293, $16.95: the last time I had Haut-Poitou the region was VDQS. Now it is AC, and still represents good value in a savvy. 13% ABV. Tangy and long citric finish with diminished grass tones. It must be savvy month at the LCBO: summer is upon us!!! QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Maipo, +18721, $17.95: lots of black fruit here, juicy blackberry and cassis. Aged in French and US oak for a year. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
2.Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Clare Valley, +744235, $17.95: a multiple gold winner and Decanter fave. 14% ABV, twist top, and leaning to the savoury side, a good match with food. QPR: 89.
3.Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2009 WO Western Cape, +561142, $15.95: an undervalued mid-priced wine series from KWV, here with 14.5% ABV, already five years old. Many ripe tones, and can keep even more in your cellar.
4.Chateau Argadens 2009 Bordeaux Superieur, +681643, $17.95: from Sichel (since 2002), a pleasant blend of 63merlot/32cabernetsauvignon/5cabernetfranc. 14% ABV. Very fruity and capable of further aging. QPR: 89.
5.Sogrape Quinta Dos Carvalhais Colheita 2010 Dao, +13474, $17.95: great length and finish, fruity food wine. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Kim Crawford SP Spitfire Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +38240, $24.95 retail.
2.Planeta Chardonnay 2010 IGT Sicilia, +109652, $38.95 ISD.
3.Fries Family Duck Pond Pinot Noir 2010 Willamette Valley, +427872, $25.95.
4.Ringbolt 21 Barriques Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Margaret River, +367870, $44.95.
5.Yangarra Shiraz 2010 McLaren Vale, +911974, $29.95
6.Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2012 Marlborough, +598813, $39.95.
7.Chateau Fleur de Jean Gue 2010 Lalande-de-Pomerol, +729137, $24.95.
8.Clos Lunelles 2010 Cotes de Bordeaux-Castillon, +258053, $49.85.
9.Gemma Giblin Riserva Barolo 2006, +185025, $40.95.
10.Tenuta Vitanza Andretta Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +367367, $53.95.
11.Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2010, +356220, $49.95.
12.Beronia Gran Reserva 2006 Rioja, +940965, $34.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, March 24, 2014

Benvenuto Brunello Toronto walk around tasting, March 10/14

The Date and Time: Monday, March 10, 2014  1PM to 4PM
The Event: Benvenuto Brunello Toronto walk around tasting
The Venue: AGO
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: 31 wineries were here, including a few looking for agent importers. Wines were available through a variety of distribution channels, including private orders and consignment.
The Quote/Background: Featured were Brunello di Montalcino (and Riservas and single vineyards), Rosso di Montalcino, Sant'antimo and Moscadello di Montalcino.
The Wines: My palate fatigued rather easily with the onslaught of heavy duty reds. And I did not taste all of the red wines. Apart from one white (Fanti) used as a palate refresher, I tasted only red wines. All of the Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino wines I tasted the day before or at this show – there is a separate writeup under March 9 (Sunday). Most producers/agents did not mind that I started with the Riservas and worked downwards.
 
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2006, $109 TWC Con
-La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2007, $85 TWC Con
-Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2008 Castello Banfi
-Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 200 Riserva Poggio alla Mura $95
-Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2008 Vigna La Casa Case for Wine
-Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 1997, +961714, $132
-Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2004 Riserva Poggio al Vento
-Collosorbo Sant'Antimo Rosso Ciacci Giovanna 2012, $28.95 PMA
-Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2008
-Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva Vigna Paganelli
-La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva
-La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino 2009 Selezione I Poggiarelli
-San Polino Brunello di Montalcino 2008
-Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2009 Majestic
-Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Poggio Doria  Majestic
-Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2009, $59.95 Le Sommelier
-Fanti Santi'Antimo Rosso Sassomagno 2011, $19.95 Le Sommelier
-Fanti Santi'Antimo Bianco Soralisa 2012, $17.95 Le Sommelier
-La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2007, $66  TWC con
-La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2008, $66 TWC con
-Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva Poggio all'Oro
-Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2008
-Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva
-Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2009
-Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva
-Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2008 Riserva
-Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2009
-Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva
-Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2008
-Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2006
-Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva Poggio al Vento
-Collosorbo Sant'Antimo Rosso Le Due Gemme 2012, $15 – 17 PMA
-La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2008
-La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino 2008
-La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino 2009
-Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva
-Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino 2008
-Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Manachiara
-Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Vigna Spuntali
-Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino 2009
 
The Food: international cheeses, charcuterie, breads, dips/condimenti.
The Downside: the food ran out by 3 PM
The Upside: a chance to see several new producers, and the venue was spacious.
The Contact Person: p.titone@ice.it
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Tuscan wine tasting, March 9/14

The Date and Time: Sunday, March 9, 2014   4PM to 6PM
The Event: Donatella Cinelli Colombini Tuscan wine tasting, with Violante Gardini, the heir to the business.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina
The Target Audience: private clients and wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through Le Sommelier (www.lesommelier.com), some by private order, others in consignment or LCBO.
The Quote/Background: Violante was in town for next day's Brunello tasting; I have folded into here all of her wines from both shows.
 
The Wines: Some of her leading wines are in the Prime Donne series – four women winemakers/advisers select wines from the best barrels to produce a blend designated as top quality, but not every year. Over the passage of time, it appears that the best barrels are actually from 700 litre tonneau.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso di Montalcino 2011, $26.95
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Il Drago e le 8 Colombe IGT Toscana Rosso 2010, $28.95 Consignment (60sangiovese, 20merlot, 20sagrantino)
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donna 2007, $66.95 consigment
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donna 2008, $69.95 private
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2009
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2008
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Leone Rosso Orcia 2010, $20.95 Consignment
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004, $89.95 consignment
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2007, $57.95 consignment
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2008
-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2007
 
The Food: charcuterie, cheese, breads.
The Downside: I did not speak with Violante, mainly because it was a selling situation and the room was packed with people, including a cluster around her.
The Upside: a chance to taste her wide variety of wines at both shows.
The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Discover the world of Michel Chapoutier, a tasting of Chapoutier wines with lunch, March 4/14

The Date and Time: Tuesday, March 4, 2014 11AM to 2 PM

The Event: Discover the world of Michel Chapoutier, a tasting of Chapoutier
wines with lunch

The Venue: Ciao Wine Bar, Yorkville

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines that are available at the LCBO are
indicated below.

The Quote/Background: Michel Chapoutier is certainly eccentric, electric,
exotic, eclectic, erratic, energetic, exquisite and emotional. Welcome to
his charismatic and passionate world of winemaking. From the small (Braille
on Rhone labels) to the large (biodynamic vineyards in Hermitage), M.
Chapoutier is a "presence". In relation to his company, he also spoke to us
on quantum mechanics, Napoleon, and AOC status (it should be based on soil
health). He's responsible for 60 wine labels. Nevertheless, he opened his
seminar-talk with a glass of Champagne for all of us.

The Wines: We also tasted a variety of wines from a number of non-Rhone
locations (Alsace, Roussillon, Portugal, Australia).



**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chapoutier Chante-Alouette 2011 Hermitage, $79.95, 14% ABV, biodynamic,
Classics Online +140541

-Chapoutier Bila Haut Occultum Lapidem 2011 Cotes du Roussillon Villages,
$25.45, 14.5% ABV. +643239 Vintages in October

-Chapoutier Le Meal 2011 Ermitage 2011 Rouge, $294.95, 14% ABV, oak aged,
biodynamic [Classics Online +360800 in September]

-Chapoutier Domaine Tournon Lady's Lane 2010 Victoria, $69.50, 14% ABV,
Classics Online +297465



***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating
terms):

-Schieferkopf Riesling Lieu-Dit Fels 2011 Alsace, $45.95, 13.5% ABV

-Chapoutier Le Meal 2011 Ermitage 2011 Blanc, $296.35, 14% ABV, oak aged,
biodynamic

-Chapoutier Pinteivera 2011 Portugal, $37.55, 14% ABV, +360537 Vintages

-Chapoutier Monier de la Sizeranne 2011 Hermitage, $105.50, 13.5% ABV,
biodynamic

[2010 vintage is +182725 at Vintages now, same price]



The Food: we ate off the menu. I tried pitted olives, focaccia, polenta logs
with dips, sauteed wild mushrooms, and grilled calamari. These went well
with the remainder of the wine in my glasses. Overall, with the food, I
preferred the Chante Alouette.

The Downside: we ate off a high top table, my feet dangled down.

The Upside: a chance to connect with Michel Chapoutier.

The Contact Person: jcocks@pdandurand.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.





Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, March 17, 2014

APVSA Tasting in Toronto

The Date and Time: Monday, February 24, 2014 11AM to 5 PM

The Event: the bi-monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des

vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Eaton Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to rep the

principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there was sales staff available to

comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such

places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,

Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show

will have wines from Canada, Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia.

Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available.

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be

acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines

that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be

any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made

available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few

have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good

value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB

cost. I did not try every wine, even though there were winery assistants
this time.

The Wines: Prices are FOB. I did not taste every product. There were also
two excellent Bernard Boutinet Pineau des Charentes (17.5% ABV), one rouge
and one blanc, made with four year old Bernard Boutinet cognac. Available in
750mL and 375mL bottles.



**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Nimois Nitoi 2012 Rouge Costieres de Nimes, 2.85E

-Chateau Coustolle La Horse Canon Fronsac 2009, 17E

-Domaine du Bon Remede Vignes Rousses Ventoux 2011 Red, 3.80E

-Domaine Modat Comme Avant Cotes du Roussillon Villages Caramany 2011 Red,
6.5E

-Domaine Modat Sans Plus Attendre Cotes du Roussillon Villages Caramany 2011
Red, 8E



***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price

Rating terms):

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Les Jumeaux 2012 Blanc
Pays d'Oc, 4.75E

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Numa 2011 Rouge Costieres de Nimes, 4.75E

-Chateau Coustolle Canon Fronsac 2011, 7E

-Chateau Gobert Bordeaux 2012, 2.5E

-Chateau Haut Mousseau Prestige Cotes de Bourg 2009

-Chateau la Besage Bergerac 2011 Red Oak Aged, 3.90E

-Chateau la Maroutie Monbazillac 2011 [sweet], 5.31E

-La Place Anglaise Sauvignon Blanc Bergerac 2012

-Domaine de Fregate Bandol Rose 2012, 6.80E

-Domaine de Fregate Bandol 2009 Rouge, 7E

-Domaine de Berguerolles Le Clos IGP Cevennes 2012 White, 4.65E

-Domaine Modat De-ci De-la Cotes du Roussillon 2012 White, 6.50E [organic]

-Domaine du Bon Remede Pensee Sauvage Ventoux 2013 Rose, 2.40E



*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Aiguillettes 2012 Blanc
Pays d'Oc, 2.55E

-Domaine Guiot Tradition 2012 Rouge Costieres de Nimes, 2.65E

-Domaine Guiot Tradition 2012 Rose Costieres de Nimes, 2.65E

-Chateau Bellevue Favereau Bordeaux Superieur 2011 Red 2.90E

-Chateau Pontac Gadet Medoc 2010

-Les Brissaux Merlot/Cabernet Bergerac 2012 Red, 2.75E

-Clos d'Yvigne Bergerac 2008 Red Oak Aged, 5.95E

-Domaine de Berguerolles Merlot IGP Cevennes 2012, 2.22E

-Domaine de la Chastelle Cotes du Rhone Villages 2012, 3.90E

-Domaine de la Chastelle Cotes du Rhone 2012, 3.20E

-Domaine de la Chastelle Cotes du Rhone [labelling red] 2012, 2.80E



The Food: great hot pizzas, which went well with the wines, as always.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):

85



Chimo! www.deantudor.com