The Event: California Wine Fair 2014 Tour

The Date and Time: Monday, April 7, 2014 1Pm to 5:30 PM
The Event: California Wine Fair 2014 Tour
The Venue: Fairmount Royal York
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: everything seemed to be available through the
LCBO channels or as private orders, consignments, etc.
The Quote/Background: I did not taste every wine, but we did have a media
room where it was quiet enough to do some tasting beyond sampling.
The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs NV, $27.95 September Vintages
-Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut NV, $27.95 December Vintages
-Sebastiani Chardonnay Sonoma 2012 Select
-Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2011 Napa, $63.95 Cons Rogers
-St. Supery Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Napa, $19.95 Vintages
-Beringer Luminus Chardonnay 2012 Oak Knoll, $39.95 TWE
-Hahn SLH Estate Chardonnay 2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Ponte
-Marimar Estate La Masia Chardonnay 2010 Russian River Valley Family Wine
Merchants
-Mumm Napa Brut Prestige NV Corby
-Nichols Winery Primitivo 2006 Paso Robles
-Silver Oak Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Napa

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating
terms):
-Robert Mondavi Oakville Fume Blanc 2012 Napa
-Domaine Chandron Rose NV Charton-Hobbs
-Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $17.95 Vintages
-Benovia Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Artisanal
-Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa
-Beringer Quantum Private Reserve 2010 Napa
-Buena Vista Chardonnay 2011 Carneros
-Ca'Momi Chardonnay 2012 Napa
-Ca'Momi Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa
-Chateau St.Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Sonoma
-Clos du Bois Marlstone Meritage 2010 Alexander Valley
-Toasted Head Chardonnay 2012 California, $17.95 LCBO
-Cuvaison Brandlin Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Mount Veeder Napa
-Deep Sea Chardonnay 2013 Santa Barbara
-Davis Bynum Chardonnay 2012 Russian River
-Dierberg Chardonnay 2011 Santa Maria Kylix
-Duckhorn The Discussion Red Wine 2010 Estate Grown Napa
-Etude Chardonnay 2010 Carneros
-Fog Crest Pinot Noir Estate 2011 Russian River Valley
-Fog Crest Elevage-Estate Chardonnay 2010 Russian River Valley
-Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Collection Chardonnay 2012 Monterey, $18.99
licensee
-Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay 2011 Carneros
-Hahn SLH Estate Pinot Noir 2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Ponte
-Heitz Trailside Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa Rutherford
-Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Napa Oakville
-Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa Rutherford
-Jordan Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Valley
-Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Alexander Valley
-Nichols Petite Sirah 2006 Paso Robles Le Sommelier
-Crossbarn by Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa Authentic
-Peju Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa Le Sommeleir
-Pine Ridge Dijon Clone Chardonnay 2012 Carneros
-Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Alexander
-Schug Chardonnay 2012 Carneros Lifford
-Schug Chardonnay 2012 Sonoma Coast Lifford
-Schug Pinot Noir 2011 Carneros Lifford
-Signorello Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis 2011 Napa Profile
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay Karia 2012 Napa
-Stags' Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa TWE
-J Vineyards Brut Cuvee 20 Russian River Halpern
-J Vineyards Brut Rose Russian River Halpern
-J Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Paso Robles Profile

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay 2012 Livermore, $16.95 LCBO
-Cline Cellars Viognier 2012 North Coast
-Dierberg Pinot Noir 2011 Santa Rita Hills Kylix
-Three Saints 67 Bordeaux Blend 2007 Happy Canyon Kylix
-Fog Crest Estate Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Valley
-Geyser Peak Winery XYZin Old Vine Zinfandel 2012 California Mondia
-Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Alexander
-Kenwood Zinfandel 2011 Sonoma Rogers
-Marimar Estate Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir 2010 Sonoma Coast Family Wine Merch
-Marimar Estate Acero Chardonnay 2012 Russian River Valley Family Wine
Merch
-Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2012 Russian River
-Pedroncelli Zinfandel Mother Clone 2011 Dry Creek Valley
-Pedroncelli Chardonnay 2012 Dry Creek Valley Kylix
-Peju Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Napa Le Sommelier
-J Wilkes Pinot Blanc 2012 Santa Maria Valley Grape Inc
-Waterstone Winery Pinot Noir 2011 Carneros Small Winemakers

The Food: terrines, cheeses, breads, dried fruit.
The Downside: it was difficult to challenge the crowds.
The Upside: the media room.
The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

21.A LA MERE DE FAMILLE (Chronicle Books, 2014, 280 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1828-4, $35 US, hard covers) comes from the Parisian confectioner of the same name (founded in 1761). It was first published in France in 2011 by Hachette; this is its North American debut in English, with a text by Julien Merceron and photography by Jean Cazals. There are 9 locations of the store in Paris, but of course, only one of them was the first. So of course, this is also the history of the company. There is a lot of material on the French style or manner of doing confections, followed by a judicious selection of recipes for chocolates, cakes and pastries, candymaking, jams, cookies, tuiles and meringues, syrups, candied fruits, and frozen treats. About 100 in all. The photography is drop dead gorgeous; my fave is the candied pineapple on p179. "As with all candied fruits, the process for candying stretches out over a week (p178)." But the techniques and steps are simple and do not take much time in themselves. These are recipes for the patient: praline paste, lady fingers, orange-chocolate cake, montelimar nougat, crunchy almond spread, pistachio ice pops. Well worth it if you have the available time for the project; many preps require a maturation period which is down time for the chef. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. No index, but there is a table of recipes and a handy bookmarker ribbon. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

22.THE FLEXITARIAN TABLE; inspired flexible meals for vegetarians, meat

lovers, and everyone in between (Houghton Mifflin, 2007, 2014, 342 pages,

ISBN 978-0-544-27390-0 $19.95 US soft covers) is by Peter Berley, a well-

known former chef and now cookbook author and magazine food writer.

This is his third such book – his last one got both a Beard and an

IACP. Yet he still needs logrolling from Rachel Ray and Mollie Katzen. This is the soft cover reprint of the 2007 book, with nothing changed. The book has been authored "with Zoe Singer" who is not identified, but is presumably a focusing

writer. A "flexitarian" is an outer limit vegetarian operating on the

fringes: a flexible vegetarian. It is also an excellent weasel word

used to describe those eaters who consume more non-meat than meat. He

has 150 recipes, sorted by 40 seasonally arranged menus (10 per

season). All recipes can be mixed and matched, but of course should

remain within the season if the principle of eating seasonally is to be

followed. Thus, he has convertible meals that can be prepared with a

vegetable and/or meat protein; some hearty vegetarian meals for the

meat lover; and meals with fish, poultry, and some red meats, with

ample veggie sides that could become mains when your back is turned. He

has additional ideas for adding flesh and for getting dinners quickly.

His main foods for heartiness include only organic or wild meats, beans

and tofu, dairy and eggs, plus nuts and seeds. US volume measurements

are used, but there are no metric tables of equivalents. One menu has lentil and

rhubarb curry with potatoes and peas, a cucumber lime raita, naan

bread, and roasted spring carrots with cumin and lime. Another has

roast duck with spiced red onion marmalade, goat cheese frittata, rice

with herbs, and sautéed asparagus and fiddlehead ferns. Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

23.THE HEALTHY SLOW COOKER. 2d ed. (Robert Rose, 2014, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0479-6, $27.95 CAN soft covers) is by Judith Finlayson, who has sold over a million cookbooks. The first edition was in 2006 when healthy food meant low fat, low calorie, no saturated fat. Since then, thought has shifted on saturated fats and on wheat. So it is back to the drawing board with new versions of older dishes. Since 2006, Finlayson has authored a slew of slow cooker books on comfort foods, veggies, gluten-free whole grains, and paleo dishes. Some of the recipes in this book had appeared in those earlier books. Indeed, the subtitle now reads "135 gluten-free recipes for health and wellness" – inasmuch as slow cookers can retain certain nutrients. Try her creamy morning millet with apples, leek and potato soup, Thai-style coconut fish curry, butternut chili, New Age succotash, or poached pears in chocolate sauce. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. She also has a reading list and a table of diabetes food values.

Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

24.THE NEW VEGETARIAN COOKING FOR EVERYONE (Ten Speed Press, 1997, 2014, 666 pages,

ISBN 978-1-60774-553-2 $40 US hard covers) is by Deborah Madison. It was

originally published in 1997, and it had won both a Beard and a Child

book award. It came back as a "tenth anniversary edition", but nothing was changed in that edition. Today, the food world has changed in the past 17 years, and Madison acknowledges this in a brisk introduction. "you will find nearly all of the recipes you have come to love. But you will also find over 200 new ones and information on new ingredients that we have come to know." If you have the original book, then there is no real need to buy this one, except as a gift or replacement copy. Our own copy for 1997 is still serviceable, but I will retain this one for the new recipes. In 1997, she had 9 quinoa recipes, which was probably – at that time – 9 more than any other book.

Quality/Price rating: 94 for first time purchase.

 

 

25.NEW FLAVOURS FOR THE LEBANESE TABLE (Ebury Press, 2007, 308 pages, ISBN 978-0-091917241, $22.99 CAN soft covers) is by Nada Saleh, a cookery writer from Beirut and lately a cook at Books for Cooks in Notting Hill. It is a straight reprint in paperback of the 2007 edition. 200 recipes are compiled, most of them classics with contemporary leanings. Everything here is highly aromatic, but may I recommend the makdouss? (cooked baby eggplants stuffed with walnuts and chili – can be frozen). Large typeface too. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 12, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 12, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Bertani Villa Novare Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010, +95810, $19.95: one of the finest appassimentos to come along from Valpolicella region in quite some time, absolutely delicious in its fruitiness and diminished dried black fruit. Smokey. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 92.

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Bollig-Lehnert Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spatlese 2005, +368787, $22.95 ISD.

 

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Lailey Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +193482, $19.95: very good quality in the balance of fruit and oak wood, from older vines, Mid-palate shines with orchard fruit. QPR: 89.

2.Seresin Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Marlborough, +9167, $17.95: another kiwi over-the-top savvy, for the savvy, lots of green tones with a citric-like finish. 13% ABV. QPR: 89.

3.Boekenhoutskloof Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2013 WO Western Cape, +126797, $13.95: excellent value in a Capricorn all-purpose savvy (sip, party, patio, first course wine). Warm, inviting, fresh: green tones but some ertswhile fruit for balance. Great price. QPR: 90.

4.Loosen Brothers Dr. L Riesling 2012 QbA Mosel, +599274, $13.95: probably the best value German riesling wine in the LCBO at this price, twist top, 8.5% ABV. It screams summer...QPR: 89.

5.Finca Nueva Blanco 2013 Fermentado en Barrica Rioja, +280560, $16.95: lightly oaked from barrel fermentation, just enough to ooze fruit tones and spices. Good mid-weight sipper or food. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Trivento Amado Sur Malbec/Bonarda/Syrah 2012 Mendoza, +37036, $16.95: another good value blend from Argentina. Mostly Malbec, but the other two support it with black fruits and some spicing. QPR: 89.

2.Valle Las Acequias Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendoza: this wine had me with "oak" on the front label – 10 months worth of French oak, full, oaky, value priced, 13.5%. Almost Euro with its currants and spices. QPR: 89.

3.Stella Bella Skuttlebutt Shiraz/Cabernet 2009 Margaret River, +58131, $19.95: almost everything from the Margaret River at the LCBO costs a buck more than something comparable from other Oz regions at the under $20 level. But it is worth it, here for its great syrah flavours and 14% ABV. Trust me. QPR: 89.

4.Zonte's Footstep Baron von Nemesis Single Site Shiraz 2010 Barossa, +212936, $17.95: loaded with character from the old vines used, bitterish character on the finish, well-developed now. 14.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.

5.Masseria Altemura Sasseo Primitivo 2011 IGT Salento, +366955, $16.95: bright, North American appeal (choco-cherry), off-dry on the palate. Gold Medalist. QPR: 89.

6.Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino 2011, +333575, $19.95: one of the last Montalcino bargains, affordable, better than a lot of comparable chianti, 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

7.Quinta do Portal Frontaria 2009 Douro, +324533, $14.95: smooth, silky, oak-inflected (is there such a phrase?), 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay 2011 Willamette Valley, +273334, $29.95 retail.

2.Sylvain Mosnier Vieilles Vignes Chablis 2010, +357152, $26.95.

3.Terres de Vidalba Tocs Grenache Blend 2006 Priorat, +268904, $37.95 ISD Flagship

4.Julicher 99 Rows Pinot Noir 2010 Te Muna Road Martinborough, +367979, $24.95.

5.Chateau La Croix de Gay 2010 Pomerol, +259150, $49.85.

6.Domaine des Marinelles Hermitage 2009, +112268, $54.95.

7.Michele Castellani Colle Cristi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008, +222109, $45.95.

8.Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009, +433417, $39.95 VE

9.Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore 2010, +479766, $25.95 VE

10.Club Lealtanza Reserva 2005 Rioja, +293852, $29.95.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

DONE; a cook's guide to knowing when food is perfectly cooked (Chronicle Books, 2014; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1963-2, $27.50 US hard covers) is by James Peterson, the prolific award-winning food writer and former restaurant chef. He's authored 15 books and has won seven Beards. And, of course, a great food reference book almost always trumps a cookbook in the category FOOF BOOK OF THE MONTH. Here, Peterson tells you how to know – by sound, smell, look and/or feel – when more than 85 vexatious cooked foods are really cooked to their standard. You can check out too-firm artichokes, rubbery shellfish (e.g. calamari), uncooked (in the middle) fish or chicken, runny pies, limp bacon, dry poultry, gray yolked eggs – and more. There are three alone for asparagus: boiled, steamed, roasted. Great photography of the finished products keyed to the text, so you can see what it "should" look like. He opens with a small section on how to determine "doneness", for sauteing, glazing, braising, frying, roasting, poaching, grilling, broiling, smoking, and barbecuing. Then he goes on to cover the elements of sauces, the prep work for eggs, and then the other foods of veggies, seafood, meats, and desserts. Lots of hand tests and visualizations. Terrific for beginners and an aide-memoire for the unsure. No real recipes (just narratives) but what there is have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, with no table of equivalents. Be aware that there are no fixes if you screwed up – just ways to prevent it from happening again. Quality/price rating: 91.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

County in the City: Tasting of Prince Edward County wines in Toronto, April 3/14

 

The Date and Time: Thursday, April 3, 2014  1PM to 4PM

The Event: County in the City – tasting of Prince Edward County wines in Toronto

The Venue: Berkeley Church

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines available through the winery, some are also at the LCBO.

The Quote/Background: I did not taste all the wines as I was off to another tasting afterward.

The Wines: all wines are VQA, most were also PEC but some were blends of PEC and Niagara (this becomes "VQA Ontario" on the label). Prices are retail.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Karlo Estates Chardonnay 2012 CHOA [local cherry, hickory, oak, ash staves], $25

-Keint-He Winery Hiller Blanc 2011, $28 [pinot meunier, chardonnay]

-Keint-He Winery Voyageur Chardonnay 2012, $16

-Norman Hardie Riesling 2012, $17.73 licensee

-Closson Chase Loyalist Chardonnay 2012

-Closson Chase Brock Chardonnay 2012

-Rosehall Run Chardonnay Estate 2011

-Rosehall Run Pinot Noir 2010

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Karlo Estates Pinot Noir 2010, $29

-Karlo Estates Lady on the Lake Riesling 2012, $22 [old oak]

-Keint-He Winery Portage Chardonnay 2012, $20

-Keint-He Winery Portage Pinot Noir 2011, $25

-Keint-He Winery Portage Pinot Noir 2012

-Keint-He Winery Fox Croft Chardonnay 2012, $28

-Keint-He Winery Voyageur Pinot Noir 2012, $18

-Grange of Prince Edward County Estate Pinot Noir 2009, $16.75

-Grange of Prince Edward County Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008, $24.75

-Broken Stone Winery Pinot Noir 2011

-Casa Dea Pinot Noir 2010

-Closson Chase Brock Chardonnay 2011

-Closson Chase Watson Pinot Noir 2011

-Devils Wishbone Winery Wicked White 2012, $19

-Harwood Estate Pinot Gris 2012

-Huff Estates South Bay Chardonnay 2010

-Huff Estates Off-Dry Riesling 2012

-Lighthall Chardonnay 2011

-Lighthall Progression Sparkling 2012

-Lighthall Gewurztraminer 2012

-Rosehall Run Pinot Gris 2012

-Stanners Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011

-Stanners Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010

-Stanners Vineyard Chardonnay 2012

-Three Dog Winery Vidal 2011

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Karlo Estates Pinot Gris, $21

-Karlo Estates Frontenac Gris Rose 2011, $16

-Norman Hardie Pinot Noir 2010, $32.93 licensee

-Sandbanks Sauvignon Blanc $13.34 licensee

-Grange of Prince Edward County Select Chardonnay 2009, $17.50

-Grange of Prince Edward County Estate Pinot Gris, $14.75

-Broken Stone Winery Pinot Noir 2010

-Casa Dea Riesling 2011

-Casa Dea Rose Sparkling 2012

-Devils Wishbone Winery Pinot Noir VQA PEC 2012

-Devils Wishbone Winery Riesling VQA PEC 2012

-Stanners Vineyard Riesling 2011

-Three Dog Winery Doghouse White Vidal/Riesling 2012

 

The Food: Canadian cheeses, crackers7

The Downside: there seemed to be a fairly light crowd.

The Upside: there was a separate area for wine writers to be alone with the bottles of wines, for concentration.

The Contact Person: brittany@powerjuncture.ca; brandielynnecm@gmail.com.

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
.

REPORT from the Good Food and Drink Festival, Direct Energy Centre, Toronto, April 3/14

The Date and Time: Thursday, April 3, 2014  6PM to 10PM
The Event: The Good Food and Drink Festival VIP Preview Party
The Venue: Direct Energy Centre, CNE grounds
The Target Audience: VIPs and media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines and foods are available, not only for sampling, but for purchase later from the winery, LCBO, or provisioner. The only things sold tonight were sampling tickets.
The Quote/Background: After 22 years, the the Festival opened up a VIP night. It gave me a chance to taste some wines. The regular show features music, a Taste Culinary Stage, and eight Food Trucks along Food Truck Alley. I started with the wines, moved over to the delightful Pommies Dry Cider (real Ontario apples from juice, $12.95 a four-pack, www.pommiesdry.com) and then took the opportunity to sample some draught beers. From Kensington Brewing Company, I enjoyed the bold IPA Baldwin FishEYE-PA (strong US hops) and Augusta Ale (British style). Granville Island Brewing was serving Lions Winter Ale, English Bay Pale Ale, and Robson Street Hefeweizen – all references were to Vancouver, of course. From St. Thomas, there was the delightful Dead Elephant IPA, named after the death of Jumbo in St. Thomas, by the aptly named www.railwaycitybrewing.com. It is a big beer of course, with lots of character and finish. Craft Brew United also had Witty Traveller and Bell City brews. There were more beers, but by this time my red tie was showing.

The Wines: I tried a variety, but not from every stand, and mostly whites.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Strewn Barrel Aged Chardonnay VQA NOTL, +522730, $12.95 [on sale to April 26, $11.95]
-Rockway White Assemblage 2012 Small Lot, $15.95 [75% chardonnay]
-Coyote's Run Estate VQA Niagara Red Paw Chardonnay 2012, +336115, $21.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Strewn Two Vines White 60% Riesling 40% Gewurztraminer, +467662, $11.95
-Strewn Terroir 2007 $24.95 [Bordeaux blend]
-Rockway Red Assemblage 2012 Small Lot, $16.95 [Bordeaux blend]
-Tenuta S. Anna Cabernet Franc Lison Pramaggiore Veneto 2011, +338368 $14.25
-Fabiano Bianco di Custoza Veneto 2012, +339341, $10.95
-Fabiano Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso, +338350, $17.95 [$1 off to April 26]
-Coyote's Run Estate VQA Niagara Rare Vintage Meritage 2010, $39.95 winery
-Coyote's Run Estate VQA Niagara Sparkling Chardonnay 2011, $24.95 winery
-Coyote's Run Estate VQA Niagara Five Mile White 2012, +195669, $14.95
-Coyote's Run Estate VQA Niagara Red Paw Pinot Gris, +116582, $16.95
-Coyote's Run Estate VQA Niagara Pinot Noir 2012, +53090, $19.95

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rockway Fergie Jenkins Series Baco Cabernet 2012, $14.95 [60% baco noir]
-Pelee Island Secco Sparkling, $14.45 [to April 27]  +225946
-Coyote's Run Estate VQA Niagara Five Mile Red 2010, +283416, $16.95

The Food: it was mainly samples, so I kept to the food trucks because I almost never come to one on the streets. The best was Busters Sea Cove (fish tacos).
The Downside: it was a long day, coming after the PEC tasting. I skipped the Dairy Farmers and the Wine Country Ontario trailer.
The Upside: a chance to taste some wines new to me.
The Contact Person: nathalie@thesirengroup.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

 

Dean Tudor, Wine Writer, www.deantudor.com

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1.SUPER FRESH JUICES & SMOOTHIES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-493-4, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Nicola Grimes, a former editor of Vegetarian Living magazine and an award-winning British author of more than 25 books. Here she emphasizes flavourful beverages for all occasions, such as pick-me-up, a detoxifier, a weight-loss aid or an anti-ageing rejuvenator. Fresh fruit and veggies are augmented in most cases by a variety of superfoods such as spirulina. wheatgrass, maca, baobab, lacuma, acai berries, chia seeds, and raw cacao – to name a few. And these are all going to be better for you than store-bought shelf-sitters. Over 100 recipes are presented – with no additives, no sugar, and no pasteurization. She's got the usual introductory material on buying a juicer or blender, what superfoods are, seasonal foods, and shopping tips. Other areas covered include making yogurt and nut milks, sprouting beans and seeds. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: those seeking nutritional beverages.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: apple zinger; breakfast booster; purple days; smooth as a peach; cherry aid; berry good; vanilla shake; virgin apple mojito; aniseed twist.

The downside to this book: too much colourful photography gives the book a party atmosphere, which may have also led to a disclaimer re: children.

The upside to this book: there is a list of both UK and US suppliers.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

KITCHEN WORKSHOP: PIZZA COOKBOOK

KITCHEN WORKSHOP: PIZZA; hands-on cooking lessons for making amazing pizza at home (Quarry Books, 2014, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-59253-883-6, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Ruth Gresser, owner of Pizzeria Paradiso (since 1991) in Washington, DC. It's being touted as a complete pizza kitchen manual, detailing all the techniques and skills needed to produce pizza at home. It is loosely arranged by level of difficulty: basics (seven variations on tomato-cheese style, including a gluten-free one), the "classics" (margherita, quattro formaggi, calzone), a selection of originals from the pizzeria, and  chapters for creating your own (seven sauces, seven protein toppings, seven veggies, and seven fruit). That's 49 in all, a good number to begin with. It is a nice book, easy to use, and is clearly meant for those who are bored with eating out of a box or doing takeout. Inviting food photos too. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Quality/price rating: 89.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Bouchard & Fevre Burgundy Tasting, March 24, RCYC

 

The Date and Time: Monday, March 24, 2014  11AM to 3PM

The Event: A review of the 2012 Vintage in Burgundy, from Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre Chablis, plus Villa Ponciago in Fleurie.

The Venue: RCYC St. George

The Target Audience: wine trade, private clients

The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available via special order, or is already at the LCBO.

The Quote/Background: It was a challenging vintage, said M. Bouchard. Volumes were down 25% in Nuits and 50% in Beaune. It took a winemaker's skill to produce concentrated wines that may take time to come around.

The Wines: There were over 25 high end wines plus some others at the LCBO and Vintages.

I did not taste every wine since I had to leave early.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2012, $123

-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2012, $143

-William Fevre Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru 2012, $58

-Champagne Henriot Brut Rose NV, $89.95

-Bouchard Pere & Fils Pouilly Fuisse 2012, +51466, $27.90

-Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune de Chateau Rouge 1er Cru 2009, +325142, $36.90

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Nuit St Georges Les Cailles 1er Cru, $146

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Chambolle Musigny, $76

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru, $130

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru, $119

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Montagny 1er Cru Cote Chalonnaise, $79

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Villa Ponciago Grand Cuvee La Roche Muriers 2011, $60

-William Fevre Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru 2011, $45.95

-William Fevre Chablis Villages Saint Bris 2012, $25 [sauvignon blanc]

-William Fevre Chablis Monte de Milieu 1er Cru 2012, $69

-William Fevre Chablis Montmains 1er Cru 2012, $58

-William Fevre Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru 2012, $58

-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2012, $97

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Macon-Lugny Saint-Pierre, +51573, $15.95

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2011 Meursault, $28.95 375 mL

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2011 Cote de Beaune Villages, +714998, $24.95

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2010 Pommard, $30 375 mL

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Chambertin-Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru, $406

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Le Corton Grand Cru, $175

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Beaune Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus 1er Cru, $149

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Pommard Rugiens 1er Cru, $120

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Savigny les Beaune les Lavieres 1er Cru, $62

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1er Cru, $111

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Gevrey Chambertin, $66

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, $250

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Meursault Les Clous, $64

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Puligny-Montrachet, $79

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Bouzeron Cote Chalonnaise, $28

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-William Fevre Chablis Royaux 2012, +27643, $21.95

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2011 Gevrey Chambertin, +661330, $49.95

-Bouchard Pere & Fils 2012 Beaune Clos de la Mousse 1er Cru, $76

 

The Food: international gourmet cheeses, dried fruit, toasts, crackers.

The Downside: I had to leave early.

The Upside: my one big chance to look at the 2012 vintage in Burgundy.

The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tasting Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck Champagnes at Select Wines, March 31...

The Date and Time: Monday, March 31, 2014  10AM to noon

The Event: a tasting of Champagnes from Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck

The Venue: Select Wines offices, Queen Street

The Target Audience: some wine writers and sales staff.

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are in the LCBO now or will be through the year.

The Quote/Background: Piper-Heidsieck winemaker Regis Camus made a quick stop in Toronto, and offered an impromptu tasting for four P-H Champagnes. Since P-H and Charles Heidsieck are owned by the same company, Select added four C H wines to the tasting – eight Champagnes in all, NVs, vintaged, rose and top-of-the-line vintaged. M. Camus spoke to the wines via a translator, telling us a little bit about each vintage and packaging details on bottle shapes. M. Camus ha been instrumental in reinventing Piper-Heidseick, with new techniques and changes in the reserve wines, a maturation change from the regulatory 15 months to a minimum of 24 months, and then to keep back the wines a minimum of three months after disgorging. He was named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year in 2013 (by the International Wine Cellars UK), for the eighth time since 2004 with seven consecutive times in a row. After he left, we tasted Charles Heidsieck Champagnes. Changes had been afoot there too as well: they now select from fewer crus (60, down from 120), the average years of aging for the reserves are at 10 instead of 8, and the extra years of aging in the bottle has moved from five to six. Charles Heidsieck is leading the way with bottle shape changes, becoming more of a pot shape, to distinguish it from other sparkling wines and to make it look more rustic and historical.

 

The Wines:

 

***** SUPERIOR – Five Stars (95+ in Quality):

-Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millesime 2002, +380315 Nov 2014 Vintages, $259.95 [chardonnay and pinot noir]

-Charles Heidsieck Millesime 2000 Brut, +52449, $99.95 [58% pinot noir, 42% chardonnay, 12 years aging before release]

-Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995, $264.75 [15 years aging before release]

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91- 94 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2006, $79.95 [pinot noir and chardonnay]

-Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV, +36962, $71 [40% reserve wine]

-Charles Heidsieck Rose Reserve NV, $84.95 [20% reserve wine and 5% red wine]

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Piper-Heidsieck Cuvee Brut NV, +462432, $54.95 [pinots noir and meunier]

-Piper-Heidsieck Rose Sauvage Brut NV, $69.95 [pinots noir and meunier]

 

The Food: croissants, gourmet breads, fresh fruit.

The Downside: a translator had to be provided; this slowed down the proceedings.

The Upside: a chance to taste some expensive Champagnes

The Contact Person: catherine@catchcom.ca; prodhon@selectwines.ca; haddleton@selectwines.ca.

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH –

-ENRICO SERAFINO BARBARESCO DOCG 2010, +341156, $20.85 LCBO: a good example of competition, with a lower priced Barbaresco produced by Campari. It's been aged for three years already, and exhibits spices in a rich but austere format – best with food (anything Italian, roasts, cheeses). It is a heavy nebbiolo wine, and could still use some aging. The lower price may mean that you need to so some work yourself, such as letting it cellar for a few more years. Well worth the effort for this old style wine. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-TENUTE DI TOSCANA CARIONE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2008 DOCG, +266668, $30.05 LCBO: wow, this is a general listed wine that has already seen five years plus of aging. It replaces the 2006 vintage, which had six years on it when first released at the LCBO. The rich texture lends to complexity in a new style Brunello, more acceptable to the North American market: ripe and fruity but with that Sangiovese depth of cherry fruit. 14%. Hard to find any kind of Brunello at this price point. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-SENSI VIGNE VINI BORGO BELLO BOLGHERI 2010 DOC TUSCANY, +341123, $18.80 LCBO: Bolgheri wines are very popular now that they show very well against supertuscan wines. They have DOC legally allowable cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the blend, along with sangiovese – the mix we find in expensive supertuscans costing upwards of $100 or more. Bolgheris might not do it better than supertuscans, but they approach them as "baby" supertuscans. This one shows fruit and spice, great North American appeal in that merlot is recognizable, modest tannins, balanced on the mid-palate, okay by itself or with food. Bolgheri is my fave supertuscan styled wine, and this one is no exception, especially for its low price under $20. Nicely aged for three years, 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2013 VQA NOTL, $14.95

Vintages +333260: this fresh and vibrant rose continues to please year

over year. Here it is 100% pinot noir, dry "old style", loaded with Ontario

cranberry and red fruit strawberry tones, coming in at 13% ABV. Stainless steel

of course, and twist top. Refreshing, just bottled. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 VQA NOTL, $14.95 +370320: from a nice ripe year, loaded with choco-berry and mocha tones. 10 months in French oak, but still done in a Euro style as a food wine. This may be their first vintage of an entire cab sauvignon; previous bottlings were either Cab-Merlot or St. David's Bench vineyards at almost twice the price. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

From Union Wine VQA Niagara –

 

1.Union White 2012 VQA Niagara, +197145 LCBO, $13.95: a virtual Ontario winery targeting the under-35 demo. It's strength seems to be in blended wines, hence "union".  This one definitely says "summer", as a blend of riesling, unoaked chardonnay, gewurztraminer, sauvignon blanc, and viognier all contribute to the North American-styled blend. 12.5% ABV, twist top, off-dry in what we used to call a (1), and intensely aromatic. Grape ratios may change from year to year, but these are the usual suspects. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.Union Gold 2011 VQA Niagara, +351049 LCBO, $14.95: The partnership of Allan Jackson (formerly of Jackson-Triggs) and Andrew von Teichman (of Von Terra wine agency) continues: twist top, 13% ABV, and a serious food wine here. Both the pinot gris (note the use of "gris" which is increasingly being applied to a higher style of pinot grigio) and the chardonnay have been barrel aged, while the aromatic sauvignon blanc and gewurztraminer are made in the tank. The result is a golden colour that is dry and crisp for food, with the edge of oak for complexity. The amount of gewurztraminer is very small, and I would like to taste the wine without its addition, just so I can check on its contribution. Maybe it adds character. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Union Red 2010 VQA Niagara, +197152 LCBO, $13.95: from the noble vintage of 2010, blended from merlot, cabernet (no indication if this is cab franc or cab sauv, so presumably it is both), gamay noir, and pinot noir. 13.5% ABV, twist top. A full-bodied Bordeaux-styled wine, suitable for later courses at the table. Shows some herbs (from the franc?) and black fruit. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4.Union Noir 2012 VQA Niagara, +277632 LCBO, $15.95: 13.5% ABV, twist top, and packed with upfront red fruit in a light style, better as a patio wine in summer or as a first course wine. Blend of pinot noir and gamay noir, very dry. Best served slightly chilled. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

From Stratus,

 

1.Wildass Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +129700 Vintages, $16.95: a compelling, fresh riesling that is basically a food wine with its lemony-apple citric finish. Best with food. Unoaked, of course. Twist top. 12% ABV. If you keep it a few years, it might get better as an aged riesling would. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

2.Wildass Red 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +86363 Vintages, $19.95: a

delightful wine but not as strong as previous years, comprising syrah

(11%), merlot (28%), cabernet Franc (31%), cabernet sauvignon (18%),

tannat (5%), Tempranillo (3%), sangiovese (1%), and petit verdot (3%). Gamay is also listed on the back label, but it isn't here. The eight red grapes (a real Euro blend) were 100% barrel aged in 11% new oak for 246 days. An exceptionally ripe wine, medium body emphasizing black fruit, coming in at 14.8% ABV. Twist top. Originally introduced for restaurants but now extremely popular as an Ontario red blend. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Wildass White 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +85100 Vintages, $19.95: a blend of some

81% sauvignon blanc, 7% semillon, 6% riesling and 6% gewurztraminer. All barrel aged in second fill French oak for 593 days. Tropical fruitiness is the order of the day,

with the impact of semillon, and gewurztraminer. In addition to the mouth-filling savvy, there are fresh peaches and other orchard fruit (apples, apricots) on display, and a touch of smoothness from the wood. Finishes with good acidity for food too. Twist top. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com