The Jura is out -- Jura wines tasted April 17/14, report....

The Date and Time: Thursday, April 17, 2014  1PM to 5 PM

The Event: Passion Jura 2014 – Vins du Jura

The Venue: Burroughes Building, 6th floor

The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers

The Availability/Catalogue: six agents were pouring, I managed to get three price lists, I do not know about their consignment availability. These are rare wines.

The Quote/Background: the seminar was conducted by my WWCC colleague, Evan Saviolidis. He carefully went through all the rules and regulations, with a visual presentation of slides, and augmented the booklet. There were many questions, especially on availability. In essence, there are five major grapes (Pinot noir, trousseau [red], poulsard [red], chardonnay and savagnin) in four AOC (Arbois, Cote de Jura, L'Etoile, Chateau-Chalon) doing cremant (25% of production), table red and white, vin jaune and/or vin de paille. Vin jaune has been likened to Spanish fino, while vin de paille has been compared to dry serial madeira.

The Wines: I did not taste every wine, and the six wines of the seminar were folded into the list below –

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cellier des Tiercelines Arbois Chardonnay Vielles Vignes 2011

-Domaine de la Pinte Jura Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay 2011

-Henri Maire Arbois Jaune Montfort 2003

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Arbois Chardonnay Les Graviers 2011, $49.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Cotes du Jura Chardonnay en Barberon 2011, $45 The Living Vine agency

-Benoit Badoz Cuvee Arrogrance [oaked chardonnay] 2012  Trialto wine group agency

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Savagnin 2009

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Cremant du Jura Blanc Brut NV

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Vin Jaune 2006

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Chardonnay Les Corvees Sous Curon 2011

-Domaine Desire Petit Brut NV  Violet Hill agency

-Domaine des Ronces Cotes du Jura Vieilles Vignes 2012

-Domaine des Ronces Cremant du Jura 2011

-Cellier des Tiercelines Cremant du Jura Blanc NV

-Fruitiere Vinicole d'Arbois Arbois Chardonnay 2012   CTIL agency

-Fruitiere Vinicole d'Arbois Cremant du Jura NV    CTIL agency

-Domaine Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Nature 2012    BND wines agency

-Domaine Berthet-Bondet Chateau-Chalon 2007   BND wines agency

-Domaine Daniel Dugois Chardonnay 2012

-Domaine Daniel Dugois Cremant du Jura [80% chardonnay] NV

-Henri Maire Cremant du Jura NV

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Cremant du Jura Blanc NV $28.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Arbois Chardonnay Les Bruyeres 2011, $49.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Arbois Trousseau Singulier 2012 $36.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Arbois Vin Jaune Les Bruyeres 2007 $119.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Chateau Chalon 2007 $124.95 The Living Vine agency

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly L'Etoile 2009 Vin Jaune

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly L'Etoile 2006 Vin Jaune

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly Cremant du Jura NV

-Benoit Badoz Chardonnay 2012  Trialto wine group agency

-Benoit Badoz Cremant du Jura Blanc NV Trialto wine group agency

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Vin de Paille 2009 $44.95 half-bottle  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Cremant Brut Sauvage NV $26.95  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Chateau Chalon 2005 $64.95  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Jean Louis Tissot Cremant du Jura NV

-Domaine Pierre Richard Savagnin 2008

-Domaine Pierre Richard Vin Jaune 2006

-Domaine Pierre Richard Cremant 2010

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Chardonnay 2010

-Domaine des Ronces Cotes du Jura 2009

-Domaine Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Chardonnay 2012    BND wines agency

-Domaine Rolet Pere et Fils Arbois Rouge Poulsard Vieilles Vignes 2011

-Henri Maire Domaine du Sorbief Chardonnay Arbois 2012

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly Cotes du Jura [chardonnay] 2012

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly Cotes du Jura [chardonnay/savagnin] 2009

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly Cotes du Jura [oaked savagnin] 2009

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Cremant Blanc Brut NV $21.95  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Chardonnay 2012 $19.95  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Jean Louis Tissot Arbois Chardonnay 2011

-Domaine Jean Louis Tissot Arbois Savagnin 2009

-Domaine Jean Louis Tissot Arbois Trousseau 2010

-Domaine Pierre Richard Chardonnay 2009

-Domaine Pierre Richard Tradition Chardonnay 2008

 

The Food: bread, cheese, cold cuts, veggies, dips, crackers.

The Downside: considering that there were 11 wineries looking for importers, I saw too few agents in the room, unless they all came after 4:15 when I left.

The Upside: a rare chance to explore an unusual French region.

The Contact Person: lafortune@tuxedoev.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 86.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Jackson-Triggs wines in review April 2014

-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Methode Traditionelle VQA Niagara, +988338, $29.95: this is a good bones wine, a soft on the palate sparkling sauvignon blanc. It's been aged over 21 months on lees, 20% aged in older French oak barrels for three months, coming in at 10g/L in sweetness. 13.5% ABV, fresh and clean continuous flow of bubbles. On the palate, soft herbs and melons with a lemony crisp finish. Can be sipped, but you may want to drink it with veggies as part of a first course. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Brut 2011 Methode Traditionelle VQA Niagara, +234161 $22.95: very much one of the bargain sparklers in Ontario at this price level. The 2008 was one of my faves, and the 2010 (with more pinot noir, three years en tirage, and a red tinge, like a rose) hit a 94 on my taste scale last month. The 2011 is back to regular straw colour. It has been aged over two years en tirage, very crisp on the palate, somewhat tart but may improve with age. Refreshingly crisp with typical yeasty nose, nuts, and a long long length. There is some 2008 at the LCBO, time to snap it up, it has aged well (I bought some). But the 2010 is gone, and this 2011, at 12.5% ABV, should prove almost as great a replacement, with its pinot noir character. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Chardonnay Musque Reserve 2013 Sparkling VQA Ontario, $17.95: a lighter sparkler, like a moscato at 8.5% ABV. It's the first time done by J-T, from the lush 2013 vintage, and shows over-the-top floral grapey character of a musque - oranges, peaches, grapes. Ripe, good length on the finish, bubbles dance on the tongue. A pretty good wine for summer! Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Chardonnay Grand Reserve 2012 VQA Niagara, +988055, $19.95: I was a fan of the 2011 vintage when it arrived at the LCBO last year, and this one continues the orchard fruit with a lemon finish complexity, aided by creamy butterscotch. It's a bit lean, but the toastiness promotes a long finish on the mid-palate. I quite like it just as much as the 2011, but like the 2011, it could use a bit more bottle age. Full malolactic in French oak, then aged 5 months on the lees in one year old barrels. 13.5% ABV. Unfortunately, the price has gone up two bucks over the 2011 (which of course was underpriced). Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Delaine Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara, $24.95: from the single vineyard, Delaine Vineyards in Niagara. Barrel fermented in French oak, partial ML, six months barrel aging. Contemplatively rich and creamy, a definite Ontario chardonnay in its citric finish. Better than the 2011 Chardonnay GR, but then priced $7 higher, so it should be. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc Grand Reserve 2012 VQA Niagara, $19.95: done up in stainless steel, it is a mix of Euro and California style with some herbs and tropicality and a long citric finish. Best with food, of course. I had blind tasted this on a judging panel recentl6y and gave it a 90.13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs White Meritage Grand Reserve 2012 VQA Niagara, $24.95: herbs and honey dominate this 70%sauvignon blanc/30%semillon blend, which I had rated 91 points in a blind judged tasting last week. 10% of sauvignon blanc was barrel fermented in French oak; it gives the blend an extra kick and smoothness. Long finish. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Shiraz Grand Reserve 2011 VQA Niagara, +360735 Vintages, $24.95: grat MVC of mocha tones, blackberries, some red fruit (but not too much). Strong on the palate, tight. Needs time. More an Oz style. Malolactic fermentation in French and US oak, barrel aged for 18 months in French and US oak. 13.5% ABV. I blind judged this last week, giving it 89 points. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Delaine Syrah 2011 VQA Niagara, $32.95: it is interesting comparing this wine to the JTGR above, especially since winemaker Marco Piccoli made both wines. Here, and on the label, it is more leaning to a deft Euro style with peppery spices, some leather, smoke, vanilla, red fruit. It has been in French and US oak for over a year, with total ML fermentation. 13.5% ABV. I judged this blind last week, giving it 90 points. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 26, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 26, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Catena Alamos Syrah 2012 Mendoza, +183848, $13.95: exceptional value in a Euro-styled syrah with fruit forward character, very rich on the palate, twist top, 13.5% ABV. Expect dark fruit tones. QPR: 91.

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Faustino I Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +976662, $32.95

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Malivoire Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara Escarpment, +277483, $15.95: Mosel-like, excellent off-dry textures, but finises a bit citric. 10.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Keint-He Voyageur Pinot Noir 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +373407, $17.95: great classic MVC for pinot noir, long, long finish, cork finish, 12.5% ABV. Expect cherries, plums,beets, underbrush. QPR: 89.

2.Casarena Ramanegra Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Mendoza, +366138, $18.95: yummy lushness, good acid levels for food. Sip or eat. 14.9% ABV. From 82 year old vines. QPR: 89.

3.Sister's Run Epiphany Shiraz 2011 McLaren Vale, +269464, $15.95: deep, dark, definitely in the shiraz style for Oz. Classic MVC. 14.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.

4.Pepin Conde Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 WO Coastal Region, +365981, $15.95: very well- made cabby in Euro style, cork finish, in small oak for 12 months. 14% ABV. Expect classic tones of leafiness and black fruit. QPR: 89.

5.Chateau Donissan 2010 Listrac-Medoc, +365874, $17.95: soft tones, classic fruit patterns of oak-spice-red and black fruits. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

6.Chateau Le Bourdillot Seduction 2009 Graves, +365908, $18.95: an affordable Graves to write home about, not yet ready, but good to lay down. Classic merlot blend, 13.5% ABV, good price. QPR: 89.

7.Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2010, +176776, $19.95: 13.5% ABV, rich and lively on palate, sangiovese cherries, and a longer finish. QPR: 89.

8.Valpantena Torre del Falasco Ripasso Valpolicella 2011, +642421, $17.95: the LCBO "ripasso of the month". QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Yalumba Viognier 2012 Eden Valley, +954644, $24.95 retail

2.Oldenburg Chardonnay 2011 WO Stellenbosch, +374645, $22.95.

3.Maison Roche be Bellene Montagny 1er Cru 2011, +233593, $26.95

4.Jeannot Pere & Fils Domaine de Riaux Poully-Fume 2012, +200063, $25.95.

5.Galli Camelback Shiraz 2008 Sunbury Victoria, +665125, $24.95.

6.Chateau de Maison Neuve 2010 Montagne Saint-Emilion, +365791, $23.95.

7.Chateau Le Bourdieu 2010 Medoc, +85084, $20.95.

8.Elias Mora Crianza 2009 DO Toro, +366815, $22.95.

9.Maetierra Dominum QP 2006 Rioja, +246660, $22.95.

10.La Rioja Alta Vina Arana Reserva 2005 Rioja, +368373, $39.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Southbrook Wine Tasting and Analysis, April 2014

-Southbrook Connect Organic White 2013 VQA Ontario, $14.95 +249078: this year's blend is vidal and riesling. The wine is a basic light and fruity white blend, drink just after you buy. It is all stainless steel to preserve freshness, and shows off tons of orchard fruits. A first course wine, a party wine, or just a sipper for the patio-deck. Twist top, 9.9% ABV, great for thirst quenching in summer. Vegan-friendly, which means no animal products were used in filtering or fining. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Connect Organic Red 2013 VQA Ontario, $15.95 +249565: the red companion to the white above, good for party-patio-deck-pool-first course, or just plain sipping. Here the blend is cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, gamay, zweitgelt, merlot, and some sauvignon blanc too. There is a lot going on, perhaps too complex in tone for what it purports to be. Raspberry and leaf tones dominate in this wine done up in both stainless steel and oak. Twist top, 12.%% ABV, vegan-friendly. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Whimsy! The Anniversary VQA Niagara, $34.95 at winery: an unusual wine, all chardonnay from 2001/2 harvests, barrel aged for six years, fortified to 15.9% ABV, and bottled in 2011 (now three years in bottle). Its own anniversary has lasted longer than many marriages...Vaguely reminiscent of a mild, dry Sercial Madeira, with its raisined fruit and oxidative style. Decompositional pear tones, woodsy compost earthiness. Worth a try, but it is assertive: cheese!!  Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc Rose Organic 2013 VQA Niagara, +279117, $19.95: one of the nifty Ontario roses to hit the market. This latest vintage is food friendly, exhibiting strawbs and herbs. For deck or patio, although it is dry and works better with a first course. Twist top, 12% ABV, vegan-friendly. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay Organic 2012 VQA NOTL, +172338 Vintages, $22.95: another triumph! Half barrel fermented, half stainless, all barrel aged after selection. I rated this over 90 points at Somewhereness, and nothing changed my mind when I tasted it at home in a relaxed frame of mind. Soft and engaging, toasty and tasty, long length. Twist top, 12.5% ABV, vegan friendly. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Triomphe Sauvignon Blanc Organic 2013 VQA Niagara, $19.95? at winery:

At 11.5% ABV, it seemed a little light. This is the first savvy from Southbrook that I have encountered since their 2008 (still available from the winery). Soft fruit on nose, but lots of lemon and citrus tones, plus herbs on mid-palate. Great to accompany salads, but a bit fruit shy. Best with food, not as a sipper. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc Organic & Biodynamic 2012 VQA NOTL, $21.95 at winery: Demeter certified, but not vegan-friendly? 12.9% ABV, partial oak and steel aging, showing black fruit and garrigue herbs. It's got some Merlot added, 12%. Best with food such as roasts or heavy pastas. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

 

Austrian wine tasting from Le Sommelier's portfolio, April 16/14

The Date and Time: Wednesday, April 16, 2014  2PM to 6PM

The Event: a walkabout tasting of Austrian wines in Le Sommelier's portfolio.

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve

The Target Audience: clients and wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are from Le Sommelier, www.lesommelier.com

as consignment or private orders.

The Quote/Background: It was a min-Austrian trade show, with wines from five producers, GVs, field blends and even reds, showcasing their organic and biodynamically-farmed wines. Andreas Wickhoff, an MW from Austria, talked one-on-one to interested clients and media, explaining more about the wines.

The Wines: I missed tasting the Loimer Langenlois Gruner Veitliner Kamptal DAC 2013, $22.95 consignment.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Loimer Langenlois Gruner Veitliner Terrassen Kamptal DAC Reserve 2012, $39.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Heinrich Dorflagen Pinot Noir 2013 Burgenland, $24.95

-Loimer Langenlois Spiegel Gruner Veitliner Kamptal DAC Reserve 2012, $64.95 [2007 coming to Classics in October at $56]

-Wieninger Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC 2013 Vienna, $20.95

-Nigl Gartling Gruner Veitliner 2012 Kremstal, $21.95 - consignment

-Loimer LOIS Gruner Veitliner Niederosterreich 2013, $18.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Sattlerhof vom Sand Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Styria, $18.95

-F.X.Pichler Loiber Klostersatz Gruner Veitliner Federspiel 2012 Wachau, $37.95 - cons

-Heinrich Blaufrankisch 2012 Burgenland, $24.95

-Heinrich Zweigelt 2012 Burgenland, $24.95 - consignment

 

The Food: charcuterie, breads, international cheeses, pate.

The Downside: the place was slammed, making it hard to get a sample of wine.

The Upside: the place was slammed, good for business.

The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Even more new cookbooks....

THE FARMSTEAD EGG GUIDE & COOKBOOK (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-62795-2, $19.99 US soft covers) is by Terry Golson, a James Beard nominated cookbook author and a chef. She's also a cooking instructor with a flock of hens for more than 18 years, and a website hencam.com for her to share expertise and answer questions. So here are 100 preps. This is the second egg book I've had for review this month: there must be a revival of interest in eggs since they were proven to be good for you. There are the usual egg dishes plus puddings, pies and tarts. If you want to do your own egg-laying hens, then she's got some 40 pages of advice for selecting, feeding and caring. Preps are arranged by topic, from scrambled eggs through fried, hard- and soft-cooked, poached and shirred, omelets and frittatas, stratas, quiches, tarts, sweet custards and puddings, sauces, meringues and general baking. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There's even a recipe index by course, so all the apps and soups are together, as well as the sides and breads.

Audience and level of use: home cooks, those wanting chicken layers for eggs.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beef and egg piroshki; Spanish garlic soup; egg panini; shirred eggs on polenta; smoked trout omelet; Bombay scrambled eggs; weekend French toast; kale and egg panzanella salad.

The downside to this book: no references between coddled and shirred eggs.

The upside to this book: good details on farming.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

10.ITALIAN DESSERTS & PASTRIES (Taunton Press, 2013, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-62710-474-6, $19.95 US soft covers) is from the Academia Barilla in Parma, Italy. There are 100 recipes here, from every region, and include all the classics (tiramisu, zuppa inglese, cannolis, cakes, pastries, cookies and puddings. All recipes are "traditional" but also include some modernization. The techniques are relatively simple. Three people contributed the text, while Chef Mario Grazia did the recipes, as well as some of the great looking photos. Arrangement is by type, with cakes and tarts followed by cookies and candies, pastries, frozen desserts, and then fruit desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: home cooks and lovers of desserts.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: mixed nut tart; Margherita cake; chocolate dessert salami; hazelnut biscotti; Sicilian cheesecake; bonet from Piedmont; ricotta mousse with almond milk; Saint Joseph's fritters.

The downside to this book: I would have liked more recipes.

The upside to this book: easy to use, with prep times indicated.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

11.ADIRONDACK COOKBOOK (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3273-3, $14.99 US spiral bound) is by Hallie Bond and Stephen Topper. It contains about 100 recipes "to please the modern palate that were inspired by the foods and foodways of the Adirondack past". So there is a bit of sidenote history as well as historical photos from the Adirondack Museum (Bond was with the Museum for 30 years; Topper has cheffed in the region). Arrangement is by course: apps, soups, salads, entrees, sides, desserts, breads, beverages. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: culinary historians.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: dandelion salad; pan-fried trout; maple-glazed root veggies; strawberry and rhubarb cobbler; herbed potato cakes; seared venison loin; forest mushroom and goose sausage; celery root and apple slaw; yellow perch fillets in broth.

The downside to this book: nothing really, fairly complete.

The upside to this book: spiral bound for ease of viewing while cooking.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

12.250 BEST MEALS IN A MUG (Robert Rose, 2014, 312 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0474-1, $24.95  CAN paper covers) is by Camilla V. Saulsbury, a freelance food writer and recipe developer. She's written many books for Rose, as well as winning top cooking competitions including the Food Network's $25K Ultimate Recipe Showdown. Here she covers homemade microwave meals in minutes, attuned to solo dining or families pressed for time. Just a few ingredients, a microwave, and a mug or outsized coffee cup. Even a measuring cup will work...Not only that, mug cookery is extremely useful for RVs, at your day job, dorm room or basement. Most of the recipes can be created from scratch in less time than it takes to defrost a store-bought meal. The book has the usual great Robert Rose layout and typeface with leading. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: home aloners, harried parents.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cauliflower and goat cheese casserole; smoked sausage and potato chowder; chicken pot pie soup; sweet potato and coconut soup; soupe au pistou; buttermilk biscuit.

The downside to this book: you'll need a microwave oven, of course.

The upside to this book: good advice to users, including the mug pantry.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

13.BACK TO BUTTER; a traditional foods cookbook (Fair Winds Press, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-587-9, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Molly Chester and Sandy Schrecengost, a mother-daughter team of bloggers at www.organicspark.com. Molly was a personal chef in Hollywood before moving on to Apricot Lane Farms, a quarter country section dealing with organic and biodynamic principles of farming. This is a whole foods book for traditional eating. It all begins with a well-stocked pantry, and that covers the first fifty pages: fats & oils, sustainable meat, dairy, nuts-seeds-beans-grains, and natural sweeteners. Then the recipes follow, in traditional order by course (apps to desserts). And of course, it is all historically based. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents. At the back there is a two page resources list.

Audience and level of use: home cooks looking for a great, wholesome diet.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seared scallops with creamy carrot puree; poppy seed chicken casserole; new potatoes, green beans and bacon with dill; confetti slaw; sour cream drops; multi-seed crackers; meaty baked beans.

The downside to this book: it can be preachy at moments, but it's not personal.

The upside to this book: a great collection of recipes.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Some new cookbooks

ALMONDS; recipes, history, culture (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3464-5, $21.99 US hard covers) is by Barbara Bryant and Betsy Fentress, co-authors of "The Bryant Family Vineyard Cookbook". Recipes are by Lynda Balslev, a food writer and recipe developer in the Frisco Bay Area. Along with some high powered log rolling, the team has produced a unique book of 60 recipes featuring the cuisines of China, India, Lebanon, France, Italy, Mexico and the US. All forms of almonds are here: raw, blanched, ground, roasted, slivered and sliced. The range is for every course, from snacks and starters to baked goods. Much of the data came from the Almond Board of California (www.almonds.com) but they also have a short bibliography. In addition to cultural notes and histories, there are sidebars from time to time with tidbits of material. The photography is also really good. Preparations have their ingredients listed mainly in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: nut lovers.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: almond granita and raspberries; mixed greens with roasted beets, feta and toasted almonds; almond and apricot skillet bread; almond and lemon crusted salmon; pulled pork with red mole; white peach and prosciutto salad; winter kale and quinoa salad with carrots and raisins; green olive and almond tapenade.

The downside to this book: more recipes would have been appreciated.

The upside to this book: a nifty book for almond lovers.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

4.THE NEW SOUTHERN TABLE; classic ingredients revisited (Fair Winds, 2014, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-585-5, $21.99 US soft covers) is by Brys Stephens, food writer and restaurant critic, now operating as www.cookthink.com. His book is arranged by ingredient: okra, field peas, squash, rice, collards, corn, sweet potatoes, lima beans,peanuts, pecans,figs, peaches, and watermelons – with something for everyone. There are about 100 recipes showing French, Mediterranean, Latin and Asian roots through combinations and techniques. Okra and feta shows off Greek tones, hoppin' john with coconut seems to be from the Caribbean, while Sicilian watermelon pudding is from Italy. Each product is introduced, there is photography, and some general food matching principles. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: lovers of Deep South food looking for a change.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: buttermilk pecan ice cream; chick, collard, and country ham saltimboca; forbidden coconut rice with mango; steak tacos with watermelon salsa; quick cook collards, chard and escarole; flounder in parchment with field peas, squash and peppers; peaches with pecan mint pesto.

The downside to this book: more recipes would have been useful because this is a great idea.

The upside to this book: good concept.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

5.RAWSOME VEGAN BAKING (Page Street, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-62414-055-6, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Emily von Euw, creator of the blog www.thisrawsomeveganlife.com which gets about a half million page views a month. The techniques, tips and preps come from the blog's site. It is a handsome book, made even the better with the exclusive Premium Binding which stays open for hand free viewing. The subtitle pretty much says it all: "an un-cookbook for raw, gluten-free, vegan, beautiful and sinfully sweet cookies, cakes, bars and cupcakes". It manages to combine three trends in one: raw, vegan, and gluten-free. Certainly these are healthier alternatives to many current desserts that are laden with bad sugars and bad fats. Over 100 recipes go into details such as use of the food processor and blender. An example given is the vanilla chocolate chunk cheesecake with peanut butter which uses oats, pitted dates, bananas, coconut oil, cashews, carob powder, peanut butter and chocolate – everything is raw. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: vegans, desert lovers, gluten-free eaters, fans of raw food.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: s'mores cupcakes; sorbet with strawberries, agave and mint; rhubarb almond crumble with maple oregano glaze; caramel tarts with pistachios and pumpkin seeds; chocolate nut butter cups; blueberry strawberry banana ice cream cake; "endless energy bars" (nuts seeds, figs, raisins, coconut).

The downside to this book: I would have liked more recipes, but I suppose these can be found at the blog.

The upside to this book: the concept and the binding.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

6.EGGS ON TOP; recipes elevated by an egg (Chronicle Books, 2014; distr. Raincoast, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-2368-4, $24.85 US paper covers) is by Andrea Slonecker, a food writer who is also head of the Portland Culinary Alliance and a chef instructor at the Art Institute of Portland (OR). It is a nifty, basic book about perfect protein. The first part of the book deals with how to cook eggs in different ways, including special basting with bacon dripping or special poaching in wine. The rest of the book (110 pages) covers recipes about adding whole eggs to dishes. The first chapter covers eggs on bread/sandwiches, then there is a section on eggs on soups and stews, followed by eggs on salads, eggs on veggies, eggs on grain and legumes, and eggs on noodles. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: egg lovers; those looking for relatively quick food.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: welsh rarebit with hide-and-seek eggs and burnt broccoli; oeufs en meurette; crispy lemon eggs and avocado on toast; sweet potato red flannel hash with fried eggs; Swiss chard, chickpeas and crunchy egg stew; salad of favas, radishes, beet-pickled eggs and wheat berries.

The downside to this book: there is a very short few paragraphs on using eggs on leftovers, which could be expanded.

The upside to this book: a unique presentation, well thought out.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

7.SUPER GRAINS & SEEDS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-488-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Amy Ruth Finegold, who markets gluten-free baking mixes in the UK via Whole Foods. See www.amy-ruths.com. She now lives in the US. Here are 60 preps using chia, quinoa, flax, farro, and other grains and seeds. A good introductory book, based on her own health problems – that have largely disappeared with her new food eating patterns. She's divided the grains into gluten and non-gluten, and has also added acai berries, almond flour and coconut oil. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: beginning cooks, those with health problems.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: almond flour tea loaf with fresh berries; spice cake with mesquite flour; quinoa spaghetti with chilli crab; beetroot herb dip with seeded amaranth crackers; wild rice with artichoke, peaches and pine nuts.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

8.THE ITALIAN VEGETABLE COOKBOOK (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, 326 pages, ISBN 978-0-547909165, $30 US hard covers) is by Michele Scicolone, author or co-author of some 19 books, including The Sopranos Family Cookbook. She's gathered 200 preps from home cooks, chefs, produce vendors, and vineyard owners in Italy. Some are from Italian magazines, while others are her family faves. The whole range is here: antipasti, soups, pasta, mains, desserts. For the most part it is vegetarian except for some optional pancetta, anchovies or chicken broth as flavour enhancers. No other flesh is here. There is some material on storing veggies and fruit. This is followed with course-by-course sections of the meal. There is a good layout with leaded font giving the cook lots of room to view the instructions and the ingredients. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: home cooks who love veggies or Mediterranean foods.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Easter Swiss chard and cheese pie; stuffed mushrooms; dragged penne; stuffed eggplant; acquacotta (bread, tomatoes and cheese); fruit focaccia; plum crostata; watermelon granita.

The downside to this book: a too short sources list – why bother?

The upside to this book: good selection of rustic recipes.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Report on Somewhereness Ontario VQA wines, April 9 tasting

The Date and Time: Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11AM to 1PM
The Event: Somewhereness Trade Show (Media portion)
The Venue: St. James Cathedral Centre
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available from the winery, with a
few at the LCBO. The catalogue gave both licensee and retail prices; I will
quote retail.
The Quote/Background: There are now 12 wineries who are part of
Somewhereness, a terroir driven group of wine producers who strive for a
sense of place.
The Wines: I had to leave by before 12:45, so I did not taste every wine.
Needless to say, all the wines are VQA wines.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hinterland Wine Company Limited - Rosé Method Traditional 2011, $37
-13th Street Winery Cuvee 13 Rose NV, $24.95 retail.
-13th Street Winery Pinot Gris 2012, $19.95
-13th Street Winery Reserve Syrah 2011, $21.95
-Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2011, $29.95 [half-Wismer]
-Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2011 Wismer Vineyard, $44.95
-Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2011 Saunders Vineyard, $44.95
-Cave Spring Cellars Dolomite Brut NV, $24.95
-Cave Spring Cellars Gewurztraminer Estate Bottled, $17.95
-Charles Baker Wines - Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2012, $35.20
-Charles Baker Wines - Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2009
-Charles Baker Wines - Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2007
-Tawse Winery - Limestone Ridge "Spark" Riesling 2012, $20.15
-Tawse Winery - Quarry Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2011, $36.15
-Flat Rock Cellars - Chardonnay 2010, $17.15
-Stratus Vineyards - Tollgate Viognier 2011, licensee only $19.21
-Stratus Vineyards - Stratus White 2010, $44.20 Vintages
-Stratus Vineyards - Stratus Red 2010, $44.20
-Southbrook Vineyards - Triomphe Chardonnay 2012, $22.95
-Southbrook Vineyards - Whimsy! Winemaker's White 2012, $34.95
-Norman Hardie Winery - County Chardonnay Unfiltered 2012, $39.20
-Norman Hardie Winery - Riesling 2012, $21.20
-Hidden Bench Estate Terroir Cache 2010

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating
terms):
-Malivoire Wine Company - Mottiar Chardonnay 2011, $29.95
-Norman Hardie Winery - County Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2012, $39.20
-Norman Hardie Winery - County Cabernet Franc Unfiltered 2012, $25.20
-Stratus Vineyards - Stratus Cabernet Franc 2010, $38.20
-Stratus Vineyards - Tollgate Red 2011, $19.95
-Flat Rock Cellars - Nadja's Vineyard Riesling 2012, $20.15
-Flat Rock Cellars - Nadja's Vineyard Riesling 2013, $20.15
-Flat Rock Cellars - Riesling 2013, $17.15
-13th Street Winery Riesling 2012 Creek Shores, $23.95
-Cave Spring Cellars Dolomite Riesling 2012, $16.95
-Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV 2011, $29.95
-Charles Baker Wines - Charles Baker Ivan Vineyard Riesling 2013, $27.20
-Charles Baker Wines - Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2011
-Charles Baker Wines - Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2008
-Charles Baker Wines - Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2010, $35.20
+241182 Vintages
-Tawse Winery - Limestone Ridge Vineyard Riesling 2012, $22.15
-Tawse Winery - Frost Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2012, $20.15
-Tawse Winery - Grower's Blend Pinot Noir 2010, $27.15
-Flat Rock Cellars - Gravity Pinot Noir 2011, $30.15
-Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2012, Vintages $23.75
-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2012, Vintages $28.75
-Hidden Bench Estate Rose 2013, $19.75
-Hidden Bench Estate Pinot Noir 2010 Locust Lane
-Hinterland Wine Company Limited - Ancestral Method Ancestral 2013, $25
-Hinterland Wine Company Limited - Lacus Method Charmat 2012, $22


*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Flat Rock Cellars - Unplugged Chardonnay 2012, $17.15
-Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery - Felseck Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2011,
$28.20
-Hinterland Wine Company Limited - Whitecap Method Charmat 2013
-Malivoire Wine Company - Melon 2013, $19.95

The Food: some cheese was given to us by Monforte Dairy and the Upper Canada
Cheese company, and Fat Chance Hand Sliced Cold Smoked Salmon provided some
fish.
The Downside: I had to leave early, so unfortunately, I could not taste
everything.
The Upside: Schott Zwiesel glasses.
The Contact Person: somewhereness@gmail.com or jennifer@flatrockcellars.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Report: Burgundy wine tasting at Victor Restaurant, April 8...

The Date and Time: Tuesday, April 8, 2014 11AM to 3 PM
The Event: One Moment – One Bourgogne Wine seminar tasting and lunch
The Venue: Victor Restaurant, Mercer Street
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: all 15 of the wines are available in Ontario
The Quote/Background: the seminar was led by John Szabo, with the presence
of Francois Labet, Chairman of the BIVB Marketing and Communication
Commission (since the beginning of this year). Regions were talked about, we
sampled, and each wine had a Q & A session for over an hour in total.
The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-J Defaix Rully 1er Cru Mont Palais 2011, $41.99 Cons Lifford
-Chateau Vitallis Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes 2010, Vintages +360496,
$27.95
-V Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 2011, Vintages +364141,
$55.75
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune de Chateau 2009 Beaune 1er Cru +325142, $36.90
-Roche de Bellene Beaune 1er cru Les Greves 2010, $46.95 Cons Tannin
-D Rion Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes 2011, Vintages +356600, $53.75

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating
terms):
-La Chablisienne Chablis 1er cru Montmains 2010, Vintages +265090, $28.95
-Louis Jadot Bourgogne Blanc 2013, Vintages Ess $20.95
-J Burrier Chateau de Beauregard Pouilly-Fuisse Vers Cras 2010, $49.95 Cons
Lifford
-Dom Thenard Givry 1er Cru Cellier aux Moines 2008, Cons $32.50 Small
Winemakers

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine Gautheron Chablis 2012, +207902 Vintages, $24.95
-J Drouhin Macon Villages 2012, Vintages +356956, $17.75
-A Delorme Bourgogne Rouge 2010, Vintages +366427, $20.95
-A Bichot Dom du Pavillon Pommard Clos des Ursuline 2011, +23820 Vintages,
$49.95
-Dom A Verdet Morey-Saint-Denis 2010, Vintages +354316, $36.25

The Food: we had choices. I opted for the sushi "pizza" of lobster salad,
tuna, wasabi mayo, and crispy rice, followed by cassoulet with pork loin,
duck confit and house sausage. There was a cheese course with three slivers
of artisanal cheeses (Quebec for the most part?) and nuts and dried fruit,
and for dessert there was a light cheesecake or a pot de crème. There seemed
to be no point to dessert since there were no wines, no marc or cremant. But
it was enjoyable. Call me a cheap date, but the wines I enjoyed most with
the food were the Bouchard Beaune ($36.90) and the Vitallis Pouilly-Fuisse
($27.95). Also appreciated with the food were the Nuits-Saint-Georges
($53.75) and the Chassagne-Montrachet ($55.75).
The Downside: unlike other regional presentations from Sopexa, there were no
regional wines on sale from the SAQ in Quebec, which was a shame.
The Upside: a chance to match definite food wines with food.
The Contact Person: susan@thesirengroup.com and johanna.raynaud@sopexa.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: California Wine Fair 2014 Tour

The Date and Time: Monday, April 7, 2014 1Pm to 5:30 PM
The Event: California Wine Fair 2014 Tour
The Venue: Fairmount Royal York
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: everything seemed to be available through the
LCBO channels or as private orders, consignments, etc.
The Quote/Background: I did not taste every wine, but we did have a media
room where it was quiet enough to do some tasting beyond sampling.
The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs NV, $27.95 September Vintages
-Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut NV, $27.95 December Vintages
-Sebastiani Chardonnay Sonoma 2012 Select
-Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2011 Napa, $63.95 Cons Rogers
-St. Supery Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Napa, $19.95 Vintages
-Beringer Luminus Chardonnay 2012 Oak Knoll, $39.95 TWE
-Hahn SLH Estate Chardonnay 2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Ponte
-Marimar Estate La Masia Chardonnay 2010 Russian River Valley Family Wine
Merchants
-Mumm Napa Brut Prestige NV Corby
-Nichols Winery Primitivo 2006 Paso Robles
-Silver Oak Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Napa

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating
terms):
-Robert Mondavi Oakville Fume Blanc 2012 Napa
-Domaine Chandron Rose NV Charton-Hobbs
-Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $17.95 Vintages
-Benovia Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Artisanal
-Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa
-Beringer Quantum Private Reserve 2010 Napa
-Buena Vista Chardonnay 2011 Carneros
-Ca'Momi Chardonnay 2012 Napa
-Ca'Momi Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa
-Chateau St.Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Sonoma
-Clos du Bois Marlstone Meritage 2010 Alexander Valley
-Toasted Head Chardonnay 2012 California, $17.95 LCBO
-Cuvaison Brandlin Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Mount Veeder Napa
-Deep Sea Chardonnay 2013 Santa Barbara
-Davis Bynum Chardonnay 2012 Russian River
-Dierberg Chardonnay 2011 Santa Maria Kylix
-Duckhorn The Discussion Red Wine 2010 Estate Grown Napa
-Etude Chardonnay 2010 Carneros
-Fog Crest Pinot Noir Estate 2011 Russian River Valley
-Fog Crest Elevage-Estate Chardonnay 2010 Russian River Valley
-Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Collection Chardonnay 2012 Monterey, $18.99
licensee
-Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay 2011 Carneros
-Hahn SLH Estate Pinot Noir 2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Ponte
-Heitz Trailside Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa Rutherford
-Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Napa Oakville
-Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa Rutherford
-Jordan Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Valley
-Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Alexander Valley
-Nichols Petite Sirah 2006 Paso Robles Le Sommelier
-Crossbarn by Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa Authentic
-Peju Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa Le Sommeleir
-Pine Ridge Dijon Clone Chardonnay 2012 Carneros
-Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Alexander
-Schug Chardonnay 2012 Carneros Lifford
-Schug Chardonnay 2012 Sonoma Coast Lifford
-Schug Pinot Noir 2011 Carneros Lifford
-Signorello Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis 2011 Napa Profile
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay Karia 2012 Napa
-Stags' Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Napa TWE
-J Vineyards Brut Cuvee 20 Russian River Halpern
-J Vineyards Brut Rose Russian River Halpern
-J Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Paso Robles Profile

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay 2012 Livermore, $16.95 LCBO
-Cline Cellars Viognier 2012 North Coast
-Dierberg Pinot Noir 2011 Santa Rita Hills Kylix
-Three Saints 67 Bordeaux Blend 2007 Happy Canyon Kylix
-Fog Crest Estate Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Valley
-Geyser Peak Winery XYZin Old Vine Zinfandel 2012 California Mondia
-Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Alexander
-Kenwood Zinfandel 2011 Sonoma Rogers
-Marimar Estate Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir 2010 Sonoma Coast Family Wine Merch
-Marimar Estate Acero Chardonnay 2012 Russian River Valley Family Wine
Merch
-Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2012 Russian River
-Pedroncelli Zinfandel Mother Clone 2011 Dry Creek Valley
-Pedroncelli Chardonnay 2012 Dry Creek Valley Kylix
-Peju Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Napa Le Sommelier
-J Wilkes Pinot Blanc 2012 Santa Maria Valley Grape Inc
-Waterstone Winery Pinot Noir 2011 Carneros Small Winemakers

The Food: terrines, cheeses, breads, dried fruit.
The Downside: it was difficult to challenge the crowds.
The Upside: the media room.
The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

21.A LA MERE DE FAMILLE (Chronicle Books, 2014, 280 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1828-4, $35 US, hard covers) comes from the Parisian confectioner of the same name (founded in 1761). It was first published in France in 2011 by Hachette; this is its North American debut in English, with a text by Julien Merceron and photography by Jean Cazals. There are 9 locations of the store in Paris, but of course, only one of them was the first. So of course, this is also the history of the company. There is a lot of material on the French style or manner of doing confections, followed by a judicious selection of recipes for chocolates, cakes and pastries, candymaking, jams, cookies, tuiles and meringues, syrups, candied fruits, and frozen treats. About 100 in all. The photography is drop dead gorgeous; my fave is the candied pineapple on p179. "As with all candied fruits, the process for candying stretches out over a week (p178)." But the techniques and steps are simple and do not take much time in themselves. These are recipes for the patient: praline paste, lady fingers, orange-chocolate cake, montelimar nougat, crunchy almond spread, pistachio ice pops. Well worth it if you have the available time for the project; many preps require a maturation period which is down time for the chef. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. No index, but there is a table of recipes and a handy bookmarker ribbon. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

22.THE FLEXITARIAN TABLE; inspired flexible meals for vegetarians, meat

lovers, and everyone in between (Houghton Mifflin, 2007, 2014, 342 pages,

ISBN 978-0-544-27390-0 $19.95 US soft covers) is by Peter Berley, a well-

known former chef and now cookbook author and magazine food writer.

This is his third such book – his last one got both a Beard and an

IACP. Yet he still needs logrolling from Rachel Ray and Mollie Katzen. This is the soft cover reprint of the 2007 book, with nothing changed. The book has been authored "with Zoe Singer" who is not identified, but is presumably a focusing

writer. A "flexitarian" is an outer limit vegetarian operating on the

fringes: a flexible vegetarian. It is also an excellent weasel word

used to describe those eaters who consume more non-meat than meat. He

has 150 recipes, sorted by 40 seasonally arranged menus (10 per

season). All recipes can be mixed and matched, but of course should

remain within the season if the principle of eating seasonally is to be

followed. Thus, he has convertible meals that can be prepared with a

vegetable and/or meat protein; some hearty vegetarian meals for the

meat lover; and meals with fish, poultry, and some red meats, with

ample veggie sides that could become mains when your back is turned. He

has additional ideas for adding flesh and for getting dinners quickly.

His main foods for heartiness include only organic or wild meats, beans

and tofu, dairy and eggs, plus nuts and seeds. US volume measurements

are used, but there are no metric tables of equivalents. One menu has lentil and

rhubarb curry with potatoes and peas, a cucumber lime raita, naan

bread, and roasted spring carrots with cumin and lime. Another has

roast duck with spiced red onion marmalade, goat cheese frittata, rice

with herbs, and sautéed asparagus and fiddlehead ferns. Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

23.THE HEALTHY SLOW COOKER. 2d ed. (Robert Rose, 2014, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0479-6, $27.95 CAN soft covers) is by Judith Finlayson, who has sold over a million cookbooks. The first edition was in 2006 when healthy food meant low fat, low calorie, no saturated fat. Since then, thought has shifted on saturated fats and on wheat. So it is back to the drawing board with new versions of older dishes. Since 2006, Finlayson has authored a slew of slow cooker books on comfort foods, veggies, gluten-free whole grains, and paleo dishes. Some of the recipes in this book had appeared in those earlier books. Indeed, the subtitle now reads "135 gluten-free recipes for health and wellness" – inasmuch as slow cookers can retain certain nutrients. Try her creamy morning millet with apples, leek and potato soup, Thai-style coconut fish curry, butternut chili, New Age succotash, or poached pears in chocolate sauce. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. She also has a reading list and a table of diabetes food values.

Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

24.THE NEW VEGETARIAN COOKING FOR EVERYONE (Ten Speed Press, 1997, 2014, 666 pages,

ISBN 978-1-60774-553-2 $40 US hard covers) is by Deborah Madison. It was

originally published in 1997, and it had won both a Beard and a Child

book award. It came back as a "tenth anniversary edition", but nothing was changed in that edition. Today, the food world has changed in the past 17 years, and Madison acknowledges this in a brisk introduction. "you will find nearly all of the recipes you have come to love. But you will also find over 200 new ones and information on new ingredients that we have come to know." If you have the original book, then there is no real need to buy this one, except as a gift or replacement copy. Our own copy for 1997 is still serviceable, but I will retain this one for the new recipes. In 1997, she had 9 quinoa recipes, which was probably – at that time – 9 more than any other book.

Quality/Price rating: 94 for first time purchase.

 

 

25.NEW FLAVOURS FOR THE LEBANESE TABLE (Ebury Press, 2007, 308 pages, ISBN 978-0-091917241, $22.99 CAN soft covers) is by Nada Saleh, a cookery writer from Beirut and lately a cook at Books for Cooks in Notting Hill. It is a straight reprint in paperback of the 2007 edition. 200 recipes are compiled, most of them classics with contemporary leanings. Everything here is highly aromatic, but may I recommend the makdouss? (cooked baby eggplants stuffed with walnuts and chili – can be frozen). Large typeface too. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com