* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

CHARCUTERIA; the soul of Spain (Surrey Books, 2014, 462 pages, ISBN 978-1-57284-152-9, $39.95 US hard covers) is by Jeffrey Weiss, chef at Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar in Pacific Grove, California (Monterey Peninsula). He earned a ICEX culinary scholarship to live in Spain, learn regional cuisines, and cook in top kitchens. This amazing book deals with Spanish butchering and meat-curing techniques in English for North Americans. There are more than 100 traditional Spanish recipes, with step-by-step photos, and engaging closeups of plated dishes. There's log rolling by Colman Andrews and Michael Ruhlman – at least they say something informative beyond "great book". It is also a partial travel book with some memoir material, good for the armchair traveler-cook or as a gift. There is some historical depth and a superb re-telling of "dead pig walking" as butchering is described. Not for the faint of heart, but real it is. There is a lot of material about charcuteria stylings, including some charts and fat levels. Then come the recipes: basic brines and cures, adobos, escabeche, confits, embutidos, pates and terrines, salsas, and desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents (and p.437 is blank). There is a Spanish sources list with street addresses, other sources, a glossary, a bibliography, and excellent photography. It weighs almost 2 kilos, but it should be an award-winning book at a great price.
Audience and level of use: it is a good book for those engaged in whole beast cookery; also very useful for the jaded cook who demands more.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: caldo blanco; cured egg yolks; bacalao in green sauce; partridge escabeche; alioli; bocadillo de chorizo (sandwich); panceta curada; preserved pork shank and ham bone; botifarra sausages; chistorra sausages.
The downside to this book: there may be too much info here for many people, but it is a good reference book.
The upside to this book: the index has both Spanish and English.
Quality/Price Rating: 93.


Dean Tudor, Wine Writer, www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1.SUPERJUICING (Firefly Books, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-307-2, $24.95 CAN soft covers) is by Tonia Reinhard, RD (director of Coordinated Program in Dietetics at Wayne State University in Detroit, and a teacher of college-level nutritional courses) with some writing and research by her husband John. She also authored SuperFoods (Firefly), the second edition coming out last month (see previous review). Juices are nutrient-dense foods packed with the vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, phytochemicals and other good things – for the least calories. Many are tasty on their own, others need palate help. Here are more than 100 veggie and fruit recipes (82 sweet, 18 savoury), combining plants with ginger and flax and other supplements. The leftover pulpy fibre can be added to quick breads, muffins, soups, stews, meatloaf, and more. No waste here, but the chart on page 147 could have been incorporated into an earlier chapter that deals with primer material. Each prep has a nutritional analysis, with graphs and charts in some cases. The photos are basic: there is nothing much one can do with glasses of juice. Garnishes do not help. There is also a helpful section on some juicers in the market. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no handy table of equivalents. She concludes with a glossary, a resources list, and a bibliography.
Audience and level of use: those into juicing; reference libraries.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: mango carotene; berried grapes; tropical kale (with pineapple, kiwi, mango); carrot limeberry; blackberry citrus; red pepper mango; pearberry tofu; curried avocado dal; and beany zucchini.
The downside to this book: the pulp chart on p147 needs to be expanded and re-positioned in the primer section.
The upside to this book: a look at some juicers.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

The Event: a portfolio tasting of FWP: Food Wines of Portugal, www.winesofpotugal.ca April 28/14

The Date and Time: Monday, April 28, 2014   6:30 PM to 7:30 PM

The Event: a portfolio tasting of FWP: Food Wines of Portugal, www.winesofpotugal.ca.

The Venue: Via Norte, College Street

The Target Audience: wine buyers of Portuguese wines.

The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available mainly through FWP.

The Quote/Background: it had been some time since Portuguese wines were featured in Toronto. Arlindo Beca, who has been operating FWP for over a decade, decided to have a portfolio tasting of wines ranging from about $15 to $75 a bottle.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Costers Del Sio Celistia Tuerra White 2011, $15.50 – my fave white

-Crasto Superior 2011 Red, $28.95 – my fave affordable red

-Julio Bastos J.B. Dona Maria Red 2011, $28

-Quinta Do Mouro Estromoz, $52

-Curriculum Vita CV Douro 2010, $135

 

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Campolargo Sparkling Espumante NV, $25.35

-Caves Transmontanas Vertice Cuvee Sparkling 2010, $25

-Sao Domingos Sparkling NV, $20

-Carm Maria de Lourdes Red 2008, $60

-Costers del Sio Celistia Estrellas Red 2009, $24

-Costers del Sio Celistia Tierra Red, $16.45

-Fea Cartuxa White 2011, $26

-Fonte de Paredes Herdade Grand Reserva 2009, $37

-Fonte de Paredes Herdade Reserva 2007, $22

-Julio Bastos J.B. Dona Maria White 2012, $23.85

-Lixa Pinho Real 2012 Vinho Verde, 9.5% ABV, $11.80

-Malhadinha Red 2011, %75 – still too young at this point

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fonte de Paredes Herdade Santa Ana Red 2011, $15.61

-Chocapalha Mar de Lisboa Red 2011, $18

-Chocapalha Mar de Palha Red 2009, $25.75

-Grous White 2012, $28.25

-Malhadinha Peceguina White 2012, $25

-Mouro Agil Red 2012, $14.29

-Passadouro Passa White 2012, $19

-Passadouro Passa Red 2011, $21

-Quadrus Douro 2010, $28

-Alento Reserva 2010, $27

 

The Food: the food that guys crave – fried calamari, fried shrimp, fried sardines, fried cod and potatoes, fried spring rolls – all along with appropriate sauces. And  food that ladies crave (if I may be allowed to stereotype) – rolled sushi with soy sauce. Unfortunately, the food went better with sparklers and white wines, which were just one-third of the show.

The Downside: waiting 20 minutes in bad weather for the College streetcar.

The Upside: a chance to reconnect with Portuguese wines, sorely lacking in Ontario promotional marketing.

The Contact Person: fwp@winesofportugal.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

tasteUS food promotion at Marche Restaurant, April 28/14

The Date and Time: Monday, April 28, 2014  5:30 PM to 7:30 PM

The Event: The launch of the first tasteUS Restaurant Promotion in Toronto.

The Venue: Marche Restaurant, Brookfield Place.

The Target Audience: opinion makers, PR consultants, writers.

The Availability/Catalogue: the LCBO general list wines were from Treasury Wine Estates. There were also some Washington State wines for restaurant consumers, but these were not at the launch. It was a joint promotion of food and wine.

The Quote/Background: The food promotion part centred around what was available at this time of year – fresh and dried figs, peanuts, pears, sweet potatoes, rise, citrus, field tomatoes, and watermelon. There were at least 15 other categories of foods (including meats, fruits, nuts) but these were not part of this initial promotion.

 

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Beringer Stone Cellars Chardonnay California, +606806, $13.95 – this currently available vintage (sorry, I did not take note) was surprisingly very good.

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Beringer Classics Cabernet Sauvignon, +113001, $9.95

-Beringer Classics Pinot Grigio, +112995, $9.95

-Beringer Stone Cellars Merlot California, +462473, $13.95

 

The Food: samples were offered: sweet potatoes and veggie salad boats; figs and cheese apps; fresh cheese with tomatoes.

The Downside: I had to leave early for another tasting.

The Upside: a chance to reconnect with tasteUS, who promise more restaurant promos.

The Contact Person: arbuluma@state.gov; larysa.kalyta@marche-int.com; dean.harrison@tweglobal.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Food and Wine Books in Review

3.BRASSICAS (Ten Speed Press, 2014; distr. By Random House, 167 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-571-6, $23US hard covers) is by Laura B. Russell, food writer and recipe developer in Portland OR. She's also written The Gluten-Free Asian Kitchen. There is even some logrolling from Andrew Weil and Deborah Madison. This current book is devoted to cooking the world's healthiest veggies: kale, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli, and leafy such as collards, mustard greens, rabe, arugula, bok choy and Napa cabbage – about 22 in all. There's a short section on why brassicas are good for you, special diets and some tables, and a bibliography. She has 80 recipes that call for roasting or sauteing, pickling, wilting and the like. All preps are useful for retaining the nutritional elements that the brassica is good for: vitamins, minerals, fibres, phytochemicals, and more. They tend to be anti- many things, such as anti-inflammatories, anti-oxidants, anti-carcinogenics. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: brassica lovers, those looking to improve their diet.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted kale chips; leek and broccoli soup; roasted cabbage wedges with vinaigrette; boke bowl cauliflower and Brussels sprouts salad; mizuna salad with cumin-roasted cauliflower; Moroccan turnip and chick pea braise.
The downside to this book: I would have liked more recipes, say, at least 100.
The upside to this book: there are alternatives given for gluten-free, soy-free, vegetarian and vegan diets.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

4.MY PARIS KITCHEN (Ten Speed Press, 2014; distr. Random House, 346 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-267-8, $35US hard covers) is by chef-author David Lebovitz. He spent 13 years at Chez Panisse, but then left the restaurant business to write books, moving to Paris in 2004. His blog davidlebovitz.com is very popular; he has written several dessert cookbooks plus a memoir. Here he combines the memoir aspect with 100 classic French dishes, giving us his own take on the preps, concentrating mainly on how the Parisian eat today. Log rolling includes Ottolenghi and Ruhlman, as well as Dorie Greenspan and Suzanne Goin. It is arranged by course, apps to desserts, with the largest section on the latter. He concludes with his pantry. Along the way he digresses and talks about Paris matters. It is a good read in its diversity, but he's best when writing about the food markets. Preparations have their ingredients listed mainly in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. At the end, there is a sources list, principally American.
Audience and level of use: armchair travellers, French food lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: onion soup; cassoulet; coq au vin; crème brulee; cheesecake; pistou; polenta with braised greens; quiche with ham and pear and blue cheese; kirsch babas; braised guinea hens.
The downside to this book: there are more desserts than I expected, especially since he has written so many sweets books.
The upside to this book: it is eclectic.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.



5.THE SOUTHERN BITE COOKBOOK (Nelson Books, 2014, 252 pages, ISBN 978-1-4016-0543-8, $24.99 US soft covers) is by Stacey Little, creator of southernbite.com blog (since 2008), which gets over a quarter million page hits a month. It is a mix of some 150 recipes, from his own family through four generations, and his reader contributions. The preps involve easy-to-make plates using spring and summer foods, some gluten-free options, and things to make with your kids. It's all arranged by occasion, beginning with party bite foods, followed by weeknights and then weekends. There are sides, potluck, holiday, and heirloom foods, as well as desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: lovers of southern US food, families.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chicken bacon ranch mac and cheese; hummingbird sheet cake; brunswick stew; blueberry salad with balsamic; green bean casserole; cornbread salad; cheese grits; cheesy corn and rice casserole.
The downside to this book: makes it seem too easy.
The upside to this book: good notes on using leftovers
Quality/Price Rating: 86.


6.DINNER ON THE GROUNDS; southern suppers and soirees (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3628-1, $35 US hard covers) is by James T. Farmer III, a designer with a flair for writing lifestyle books (plants, porch living, party drinks, decorations, etc.). He currently contributes to Southern Living magazine. Here he promotes the southern lifestyle, more uptempo than the preceding southern cuisine book (no. 5 above).  Traditions and heirlooms are stressed in these dinners and soirees in the open; the art of Southern entertaining is that each event is grandly presented with style and confidence rooted in hospitality. The collection of menus focus on 10 themes: family reunion, dinner in the garden, summer picnic, barn dinner in the mountains, dinner on the dock, birthday dinner, fireside dinner, opening  night dinner, rehearsal dinner, and wedding reception. There's large type and leading, and upfront and close pictures of plated dishes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. There is a resources section and a substitutions list.
Audience and level of use: those who entertain
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: from the fireside dinner, oven-poached salmon, roasted okra, roasted squash, skillet toast, sweet potato wedges, honey-lemon olive oil cake, amaretto peach bake.
The downside to this book: it helps to have "the grounds", sorely lacking in Canada except in mid-summer.
The upside to this book: good advice for entertaining.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.





7.PALEO ITALIAN SLOW COOKING (Cider Mill Press, 2014; distr. Simon & Schuster, 271 pages, ISBN 978-1-60433-464-7, $18.95 US soft covers) is by Dominique DeVito, with Breea Johnson RD. DeVito writes cookbooks and own a winery near Ghent, New York. The emphasis is on meats, fish, and seafood, with particular fruits and veggies plus nuts, seeds and oils. She's got material on slow cookers (and how to convert from conventional cooking), the paleo diet and Italian food. The first thing is to get rid of pasta and other grains, which will be hard to do with Italian food. But it has to happen. Also gone are crackers, chips, breads, sugar, candy, cookies, many oils, peanut butter, beans, most dairy. Then she has a list of what to have on hand in the "new" Italian pantry. All courses are covered (antipasti, minestre, secondi, contorni, dolci), but of course there is no "primi" since that would be pasta. Minestre or soup is in that position in the menu. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: slow cooker owners; Italian food lovers; paleo dieters.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chicken scottiglia; beef and sausage ragu; duck novarese; shellfish stew; stuffed peppers; lamb stew with prosciutto and bell peppers; asparagus with pancetta.
The downside to this book: not sure who the authors are – there is no bio material within or on the book. So I searched Amazon.
The upside to this book: there is a handy list of paleo-friendly foods on pages 268 – 269. Many of them fall into the Italian category.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.




8.THE PALEO FOODIE COOKBOOK (Page Street, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-62414-048-8, $28 US hard covers) is by Arsy Vartanian, who has also written an paleo slow cooker cookbook. It comes with a huge number of paleo log rollers, but I guess they tend to support each other. She's back with Amy Kubal, RD, her co-author on The Paleo Slow Cooker. Here are 120 preps for gluten-free and grain-free meals. There's a rundown on the paleo lifestyle followed by recipes divided by course, with chapters on snacks, seasonal soups and stews, sides, and sauces. There's large print, good clean white spaces, an engaging photo for most dishes, and a thorough index. I enjoyed the pan-fried halibut with avocado salsa, but I substituted haddock. Worked just as well. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois and some metric measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: paleo food lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: salmon ceviche; bacon-wrapped dates; roasted bone marrow (cut lengthwise); Thai coconut curried mussels (a personal fave); persian green bean stew; lemongrass and cashew beef; slow cooker lamb vindaloo; braised goat shoulder.
The downside to this book: nothing really, except too many log rollers.
The upside to this book: slow cooker recipes can be used, and converted back and forth. Pages also lie relatively flat.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

Dean Tudor, Wine Writer, www.deantudor.com

 

The Jura is out -- Jura wines tasted April 17/14, report....

The Date and Time: Thursday, April 17, 2014  1PM to 5 PM

The Event: Passion Jura 2014 – Vins du Jura

The Venue: Burroughes Building, 6th floor

The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers

The Availability/Catalogue: six agents were pouring, I managed to get three price lists, I do not know about their consignment availability. These are rare wines.

The Quote/Background: the seminar was conducted by my WWCC colleague, Evan Saviolidis. He carefully went through all the rules and regulations, with a visual presentation of slides, and augmented the booklet. There were many questions, especially on availability. In essence, there are five major grapes (Pinot noir, trousseau [red], poulsard [red], chardonnay and savagnin) in four AOC (Arbois, Cote de Jura, L'Etoile, Chateau-Chalon) doing cremant (25% of production), table red and white, vin jaune and/or vin de paille. Vin jaune has been likened to Spanish fino, while vin de paille has been compared to dry serial madeira.

The Wines: I did not taste every wine, and the six wines of the seminar were folded into the list below –

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cellier des Tiercelines Arbois Chardonnay Vielles Vignes 2011

-Domaine de la Pinte Jura Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay 2011

-Henri Maire Arbois Jaune Montfort 2003

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Arbois Chardonnay Les Graviers 2011, $49.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Cotes du Jura Chardonnay en Barberon 2011, $45 The Living Vine agency

-Benoit Badoz Cuvee Arrogrance [oaked chardonnay] 2012  Trialto wine group agency

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Savagnin 2009

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Cremant du Jura Blanc Brut NV

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Vin Jaune 2006

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Chardonnay Les Corvees Sous Curon 2011

-Domaine Desire Petit Brut NV  Violet Hill agency

-Domaine des Ronces Cotes du Jura Vieilles Vignes 2012

-Domaine des Ronces Cremant du Jura 2011

-Cellier des Tiercelines Cremant du Jura Blanc NV

-Fruitiere Vinicole d'Arbois Arbois Chardonnay 2012   CTIL agency

-Fruitiere Vinicole d'Arbois Cremant du Jura NV    CTIL agency

-Domaine Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Nature 2012    BND wines agency

-Domaine Berthet-Bondet Chateau-Chalon 2007   BND wines agency

-Domaine Daniel Dugois Chardonnay 2012

-Domaine Daniel Dugois Cremant du Jura [80% chardonnay] NV

-Henri Maire Cremant du Jura NV

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Cremant du Jura Blanc NV $28.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Arbois Chardonnay Les Bruyeres 2011, $49.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Arbois Trousseau Singulier 2012 $36.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Arbois Vin Jaune Les Bruyeres 2007 $119.95 The Living Vine agency

-Domaine Andre & Mireille Tissot Chateau Chalon 2007 $124.95 The Living Vine agency

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly L'Etoile 2009 Vin Jaune

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly L'Etoile 2006 Vin Jaune

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly Cremant du Jura NV

-Benoit Badoz Chardonnay 2012  Trialto wine group agency

-Benoit Badoz Cremant du Jura Blanc NV Trialto wine group agency

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Vin de Paille 2009 $44.95 half-bottle  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Cremant Brut Sauvage NV $26.95  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Chateau Chalon 2005 $64.95  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Jean Louis Tissot Cremant du Jura NV

-Domaine Pierre Richard Savagnin 2008

-Domaine Pierre Richard Vin Jaune 2006

-Domaine Pierre Richard Cremant 2010

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Chardonnay 2010

-Domaine des Ronces Cotes du Jura 2009

-Domaine Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Chardonnay 2012    BND wines agency

-Domaine Rolet Pere et Fils Arbois Rouge Poulsard Vieilles Vignes 2011

-Henri Maire Domaine du Sorbief Chardonnay Arbois 2012

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly Cotes du Jura [chardonnay] 2012

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly Cotes du Jura [chardonnay/savagnin] 2009

-Earl Claude & Cedric Joly Cotes du Jura [oaked savagnin] 2009

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Cremant Blanc Brut NV $21.95  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Baud Pere et Fils Chardonnay 2012 $19.95  Nicolas Pearce Wines agency

-Domaine Jean Louis Tissot Arbois Chardonnay 2011

-Domaine Jean Louis Tissot Arbois Savagnin 2009

-Domaine Jean Louis Tissot Arbois Trousseau 2010

-Domaine Pierre Richard Chardonnay 2009

-Domaine Pierre Richard Tradition Chardonnay 2008

 

The Food: bread, cheese, cold cuts, veggies, dips, crackers.

The Downside: considering that there were 11 wineries looking for importers, I saw too few agents in the room, unless they all came after 4:15 when I left.

The Upside: a rare chance to explore an unusual French region.

The Contact Person: lafortune@tuxedoev.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 86.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Jackson-Triggs wines in review April 2014

-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Methode Traditionelle VQA Niagara, +988338, $29.95: this is a good bones wine, a soft on the palate sparkling sauvignon blanc. It's been aged over 21 months on lees, 20% aged in older French oak barrels for three months, coming in at 10g/L in sweetness. 13.5% ABV, fresh and clean continuous flow of bubbles. On the palate, soft herbs and melons with a lemony crisp finish. Can be sipped, but you may want to drink it with veggies as part of a first course. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Brut 2011 Methode Traditionelle VQA Niagara, +234161 $22.95: very much one of the bargain sparklers in Ontario at this price level. The 2008 was one of my faves, and the 2010 (with more pinot noir, three years en tirage, and a red tinge, like a rose) hit a 94 on my taste scale last month. The 2011 is back to regular straw colour. It has been aged over two years en tirage, very crisp on the palate, somewhat tart but may improve with age. Refreshingly crisp with typical yeasty nose, nuts, and a long long length. There is some 2008 at the LCBO, time to snap it up, it has aged well (I bought some). But the 2010 is gone, and this 2011, at 12.5% ABV, should prove almost as great a replacement, with its pinot noir character. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Chardonnay Musque Reserve 2013 Sparkling VQA Ontario, $17.95: a lighter sparkler, like a moscato at 8.5% ABV. It's the first time done by J-T, from the lush 2013 vintage, and shows over-the-top floral grapey character of a musque - oranges, peaches, grapes. Ripe, good length on the finish, bubbles dance on the tongue. A pretty good wine for summer! Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Chardonnay Grand Reserve 2012 VQA Niagara, +988055, $19.95: I was a fan of the 2011 vintage when it arrived at the LCBO last year, and this one continues the orchard fruit with a lemon finish complexity, aided by creamy butterscotch. It's a bit lean, but the toastiness promotes a long finish on the mid-palate. I quite like it just as much as the 2011, but like the 2011, it could use a bit more bottle age. Full malolactic in French oak, then aged 5 months on the lees in one year old barrels. 13.5% ABV. Unfortunately, the price has gone up two bucks over the 2011 (which of course was underpriced). Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Delaine Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara, $24.95: from the single vineyard, Delaine Vineyards in Niagara. Barrel fermented in French oak, partial ML, six months barrel aging. Contemplatively rich and creamy, a definite Ontario chardonnay in its citric finish. Better than the 2011 Chardonnay GR, but then priced $7 higher, so it should be. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc Grand Reserve 2012 VQA Niagara, $19.95: done up in stainless steel, it is a mix of Euro and California style with some herbs and tropicality and a long citric finish. Best with food, of course. I had blind tasted this on a judging panel recentl6y and gave it a 90.13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs White Meritage Grand Reserve 2012 VQA Niagara, $24.95: herbs and honey dominate this 70%sauvignon blanc/30%semillon blend, which I had rated 91 points in a blind judged tasting last week. 10% of sauvignon blanc was barrel fermented in French oak; it gives the blend an extra kick and smoothness. Long finish. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Shiraz Grand Reserve 2011 VQA Niagara, +360735 Vintages, $24.95: grat MVC of mocha tones, blackberries, some red fruit (but not too much). Strong on the palate, tight. Needs time. More an Oz style. Malolactic fermentation in French and US oak, barrel aged for 18 months in French and US oak. 13.5% ABV. I blind judged this last week, giving it 89 points. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 -Jackson-Triggs Delaine Syrah 2011 VQA Niagara, $32.95: it is interesting comparing this wine to the JTGR above, especially since winemaker Marco Piccoli made both wines. Here, and on the label, it is more leaning to a deft Euro style with peppery spices, some leather, smoke, vanilla, red fruit. It has been in French and US oak for over a year, with total ML fermentation. 13.5% ABV. I judged this blind last week, giving it 90 points. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 26, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 26, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Catena Alamos Syrah 2012 Mendoza, +183848, $13.95: exceptional value in a Euro-styled syrah with fruit forward character, very rich on the palate, twist top, 13.5% ABV. Expect dark fruit tones. QPR: 91.

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Faustino I Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +976662, $32.95

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Malivoire Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara Escarpment, +277483, $15.95: Mosel-like, excellent off-dry textures, but finises a bit citric. 10.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Keint-He Voyageur Pinot Noir 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +373407, $17.95: great classic MVC for pinot noir, long, long finish, cork finish, 12.5% ABV. Expect cherries, plums,beets, underbrush. QPR: 89.

2.Casarena Ramanegra Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Mendoza, +366138, $18.95: yummy lushness, good acid levels for food. Sip or eat. 14.9% ABV. From 82 year old vines. QPR: 89.

3.Sister's Run Epiphany Shiraz 2011 McLaren Vale, +269464, $15.95: deep, dark, definitely in the shiraz style for Oz. Classic MVC. 14.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.

4.Pepin Conde Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 WO Coastal Region, +365981, $15.95: very well- made cabby in Euro style, cork finish, in small oak for 12 months. 14% ABV. Expect classic tones of leafiness and black fruit. QPR: 89.

5.Chateau Donissan 2010 Listrac-Medoc, +365874, $17.95: soft tones, classic fruit patterns of oak-spice-red and black fruits. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

6.Chateau Le Bourdillot Seduction 2009 Graves, +365908, $18.95: an affordable Graves to write home about, not yet ready, but good to lay down. Classic merlot blend, 13.5% ABV, good price. QPR: 89.

7.Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2010, +176776, $19.95: 13.5% ABV, rich and lively on palate, sangiovese cherries, and a longer finish. QPR: 89.

8.Valpantena Torre del Falasco Ripasso Valpolicella 2011, +642421, $17.95: the LCBO "ripasso of the month". QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Yalumba Viognier 2012 Eden Valley, +954644, $24.95 retail

2.Oldenburg Chardonnay 2011 WO Stellenbosch, +374645, $22.95.

3.Maison Roche be Bellene Montagny 1er Cru 2011, +233593, $26.95

4.Jeannot Pere & Fils Domaine de Riaux Poully-Fume 2012, +200063, $25.95.

5.Galli Camelback Shiraz 2008 Sunbury Victoria, +665125, $24.95.

6.Chateau de Maison Neuve 2010 Montagne Saint-Emilion, +365791, $23.95.

7.Chateau Le Bourdieu 2010 Medoc, +85084, $20.95.

8.Elias Mora Crianza 2009 DO Toro, +366815, $22.95.

9.Maetierra Dominum QP 2006 Rioja, +246660, $22.95.

10.La Rioja Alta Vina Arana Reserva 2005 Rioja, +368373, $39.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Southbrook Wine Tasting and Analysis, April 2014

-Southbrook Connect Organic White 2013 VQA Ontario, $14.95 +249078: this year's blend is vidal and riesling. The wine is a basic light and fruity white blend, drink just after you buy. It is all stainless steel to preserve freshness, and shows off tons of orchard fruits. A first course wine, a party wine, or just a sipper for the patio-deck. Twist top, 9.9% ABV, great for thirst quenching in summer. Vegan-friendly, which means no animal products were used in filtering or fining. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Connect Organic Red 2013 VQA Ontario, $15.95 +249565: the red companion to the white above, good for party-patio-deck-pool-first course, or just plain sipping. Here the blend is cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, gamay, zweitgelt, merlot, and some sauvignon blanc too. There is a lot going on, perhaps too complex in tone for what it purports to be. Raspberry and leaf tones dominate in this wine done up in both stainless steel and oak. Twist top, 12.%% ABV, vegan-friendly. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Whimsy! The Anniversary VQA Niagara, $34.95 at winery: an unusual wine, all chardonnay from 2001/2 harvests, barrel aged for six years, fortified to 15.9% ABV, and bottled in 2011 (now three years in bottle). Its own anniversary has lasted longer than many marriages...Vaguely reminiscent of a mild, dry Sercial Madeira, with its raisined fruit and oxidative style. Decompositional pear tones, woodsy compost earthiness. Worth a try, but it is assertive: cheese!!  Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc Rose Organic 2013 VQA Niagara, +279117, $19.95: one of the nifty Ontario roses to hit the market. This latest vintage is food friendly, exhibiting strawbs and herbs. For deck or patio, although it is dry and works better with a first course. Twist top, 12% ABV, vegan-friendly. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay Organic 2012 VQA NOTL, +172338 Vintages, $22.95: another triumph! Half barrel fermented, half stainless, all barrel aged after selection. I rated this over 90 points at Somewhereness, and nothing changed my mind when I tasted it at home in a relaxed frame of mind. Soft and engaging, toasty and tasty, long length. Twist top, 12.5% ABV, vegan friendly. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Triomphe Sauvignon Blanc Organic 2013 VQA Niagara, $19.95? at winery:

At 11.5% ABV, it seemed a little light. This is the first savvy from Southbrook that I have encountered since their 2008 (still available from the winery). Soft fruit on nose, but lots of lemon and citrus tones, plus herbs on mid-palate. Great to accompany salads, but a bit fruit shy. Best with food, not as a sipper. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc Organic & Biodynamic 2012 VQA NOTL, $21.95 at winery: Demeter certified, but not vegan-friendly? 12.9% ABV, partial oak and steel aging, showing black fruit and garrigue herbs. It's got some Merlot added, 12%. Best with food such as roasts or heavy pastas. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

 

Austrian wine tasting from Le Sommelier's portfolio, April 16/14

The Date and Time: Wednesday, April 16, 2014  2PM to 6PM

The Event: a walkabout tasting of Austrian wines in Le Sommelier's portfolio.

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve

The Target Audience: clients and wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are from Le Sommelier, www.lesommelier.com

as consignment or private orders.

The Quote/Background: It was a min-Austrian trade show, with wines from five producers, GVs, field blends and even reds, showcasing their organic and biodynamically-farmed wines. Andreas Wickhoff, an MW from Austria, talked one-on-one to interested clients and media, explaining more about the wines.

The Wines: I missed tasting the Loimer Langenlois Gruner Veitliner Kamptal DAC 2013, $22.95 consignment.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Loimer Langenlois Gruner Veitliner Terrassen Kamptal DAC Reserve 2012, $39.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Heinrich Dorflagen Pinot Noir 2013 Burgenland, $24.95

-Loimer Langenlois Spiegel Gruner Veitliner Kamptal DAC Reserve 2012, $64.95 [2007 coming to Classics in October at $56]

-Wieninger Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC 2013 Vienna, $20.95

-Nigl Gartling Gruner Veitliner 2012 Kremstal, $21.95 - consignment

-Loimer LOIS Gruner Veitliner Niederosterreich 2013, $18.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Sattlerhof vom Sand Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Styria, $18.95

-F.X.Pichler Loiber Klostersatz Gruner Veitliner Federspiel 2012 Wachau, $37.95 - cons

-Heinrich Blaufrankisch 2012 Burgenland, $24.95

-Heinrich Zweigelt 2012 Burgenland, $24.95 - consignment

 

The Food: charcuterie, breads, international cheeses, pate.

The Downside: the place was slammed, making it hard to get a sample of wine.

The Upside: the place was slammed, good for business.

The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Even more new cookbooks....

THE FARMSTEAD EGG GUIDE & COOKBOOK (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-62795-2, $19.99 US soft covers) is by Terry Golson, a James Beard nominated cookbook author and a chef. She's also a cooking instructor with a flock of hens for more than 18 years, and a website hencam.com for her to share expertise and answer questions. So here are 100 preps. This is the second egg book I've had for review this month: there must be a revival of interest in eggs since they were proven to be good for you. There are the usual egg dishes plus puddings, pies and tarts. If you want to do your own egg-laying hens, then she's got some 40 pages of advice for selecting, feeding and caring. Preps are arranged by topic, from scrambled eggs through fried, hard- and soft-cooked, poached and shirred, omelets and frittatas, stratas, quiches, tarts, sweet custards and puddings, sauces, meringues and general baking. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There's even a recipe index by course, so all the apps and soups are together, as well as the sides and breads.

Audience and level of use: home cooks, those wanting chicken layers for eggs.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beef and egg piroshki; Spanish garlic soup; egg panini; shirred eggs on polenta; smoked trout omelet; Bombay scrambled eggs; weekend French toast; kale and egg panzanella salad.

The downside to this book: no references between coddled and shirred eggs.

The upside to this book: good details on farming.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

10.ITALIAN DESSERTS & PASTRIES (Taunton Press, 2013, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-62710-474-6, $19.95 US soft covers) is from the Academia Barilla in Parma, Italy. There are 100 recipes here, from every region, and include all the classics (tiramisu, zuppa inglese, cannolis, cakes, pastries, cookies and puddings. All recipes are "traditional" but also include some modernization. The techniques are relatively simple. Three people contributed the text, while Chef Mario Grazia did the recipes, as well as some of the great looking photos. Arrangement is by type, with cakes and tarts followed by cookies and candies, pastries, frozen desserts, and then fruit desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: home cooks and lovers of desserts.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: mixed nut tart; Margherita cake; chocolate dessert salami; hazelnut biscotti; Sicilian cheesecake; bonet from Piedmont; ricotta mousse with almond milk; Saint Joseph's fritters.

The downside to this book: I would have liked more recipes.

The upside to this book: easy to use, with prep times indicated.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

11.ADIRONDACK COOKBOOK (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3273-3, $14.99 US spiral bound) is by Hallie Bond and Stephen Topper. It contains about 100 recipes "to please the modern palate that were inspired by the foods and foodways of the Adirondack past". So there is a bit of sidenote history as well as historical photos from the Adirondack Museum (Bond was with the Museum for 30 years; Topper has cheffed in the region). Arrangement is by course: apps, soups, salads, entrees, sides, desserts, breads, beverages. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: culinary historians.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: dandelion salad; pan-fried trout; maple-glazed root veggies; strawberry and rhubarb cobbler; herbed potato cakes; seared venison loin; forest mushroom and goose sausage; celery root and apple slaw; yellow perch fillets in broth.

The downside to this book: nothing really, fairly complete.

The upside to this book: spiral bound for ease of viewing while cooking.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

12.250 BEST MEALS IN A MUG (Robert Rose, 2014, 312 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0474-1, $24.95  CAN paper covers) is by Camilla V. Saulsbury, a freelance food writer and recipe developer. She's written many books for Rose, as well as winning top cooking competitions including the Food Network's $25K Ultimate Recipe Showdown. Here she covers homemade microwave meals in minutes, attuned to solo dining or families pressed for time. Just a few ingredients, a microwave, and a mug or outsized coffee cup. Even a measuring cup will work...Not only that, mug cookery is extremely useful for RVs, at your day job, dorm room or basement. Most of the recipes can be created from scratch in less time than it takes to defrost a store-bought meal. The book has the usual great Robert Rose layout and typeface with leading. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: home aloners, harried parents.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cauliflower and goat cheese casserole; smoked sausage and potato chowder; chicken pot pie soup; sweet potato and coconut soup; soupe au pistou; buttermilk biscuit.

The downside to this book: you'll need a microwave oven, of course.

The upside to this book: good advice to users, including the mug pantry.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

13.BACK TO BUTTER; a traditional foods cookbook (Fair Winds Press, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-587-9, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Molly Chester and Sandy Schrecengost, a mother-daughter team of bloggers at www.organicspark.com. Molly was a personal chef in Hollywood before moving on to Apricot Lane Farms, a quarter country section dealing with organic and biodynamic principles of farming. This is a whole foods book for traditional eating. It all begins with a well-stocked pantry, and that covers the first fifty pages: fats & oils, sustainable meat, dairy, nuts-seeds-beans-grains, and natural sweeteners. Then the recipes follow, in traditional order by course (apps to desserts). And of course, it is all historically based. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents. At the back there is a two page resources list.

Audience and level of use: home cooks looking for a great, wholesome diet.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seared scallops with creamy carrot puree; poppy seed chicken casserole; new potatoes, green beans and bacon with dill; confetti slaw; sour cream drops; multi-seed crackers; meaty baked beans.

The downside to this book: it can be preachy at moments, but it's not personal.

The upside to this book: a great collection of recipes.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com