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Thursday, August 7, 2014

The Event: OltrePo' Pavese (Lombardy) meets Canada, via the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario

The Date and Time: Thursday, July 10, 2014  4:30 PM – 8 PM
The Event: OltrePo' Pavese (Lombardy) meets Canada, via the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario
The Venue: Gardiner Museum
The Target Audience: members of the Chamber, guests, wine writers, wine agencies.
The Availability/Catalogue: not much is available, so this was a great introduction.
The Quote/Background: Stemming from a viticulture heritage of more than 2000 years, the Oltrepo' vines benefit from a combination of well-drained, clayish soil and a microclimate that create a unique terroir for the native grapes. Oltrepo' is also considered Italy's capital of Pinot Noir. The area produces more than half of Lombardy's wine production and two-thirds of its DOC-designated wines.
 
The Wines: There were 8 wineries with about three wines each.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Az. Agr. Ca di Frara Moscato 2013 6.5%
-Bruno Verdi OP Rosso Riserva Cavariola DOC 2010
-Calatroni vini Pinot Nero DOC Cruasè Rose
-Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Pinot Nero Brut DOC
-Tenuta Fornace Soc. Agr. Pinot Noir 66 MC 2008 66 months in bottle
-Tenuta Fornace Soc. Agr. Sangue di Guida Il Tardio Sparkling
-Az. Agr. SanMichele ai Pianoni Pinot Nero Pynos DOC 2006
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Az. Agr. Ca di Frara Pinot Nero 2012
-Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Buttafuoco "Vigna Pregana" DOC 2010
-Az. Agr. SanMichele ai Pianoni Rosso dei Pianori DOC 2010
-Az. Agr. SanMichele ai Pianoni Profondo di San Michele Rosso Riserva DOC 2010
-Bruno Verdi OP Rosso Riserva Cavariola DOC 2009
-Bruno Verdi OP Buttafuoco DOC 2013
-Bruno Verdi OP Metodo Classico 70PN/30Ch
-Azienda Agricola Montelio Comprino 2011
-Azienda Agricola Montelio Oltrepo' Pavese Rosso DOC 2011
-Azienda Agricola Montelio Oltrepo' Pavese Rosso Riserva 2009
-Gravanago di GoggiP. Pinot Nero Big Black 2011
-Gravanago di GoggiP. Moscato blue bottle 2013 4.5%
-Calatroni vini Pinot Nero 2012
-Calatroni vini Rosso OPDOC Perorossino 2010 7 grape blend
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tenuta Fornace Soc. Agr. Pinot Grigio 2013
-Az. Agr. Ca di Frara Pinot Grigio 2013
-Gravanago di GoggiP. Bonarda DOC 2013
-Calatroni vini Pinot Grigio DOC Unico Rose
-Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Pinot Nero V/R Blau DOC 2010
-Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Barbera Poggio Anna DOC 2011
 
The Food: cheeses, breads, biscuits, veggies, dips.
The Downside: it was lightly attended
The Upside: a good chance to explore a region I had  not tasted much of
The Contact Person: Giorgio Tinelli tinelli@italchambers.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

FRENCH FOOD COOKBOOKS STILL POPULAR!!!

THE FRENCH COOK: souffles (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 128
pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3612-0, $21.99 US hard covers) is by Greg Patent, a Bear Award winning author for 2002, a blogger, and radio host. This is the third in a new series on French cuisine, here dealing with the basics of souffles: mainly how to beat eggs and how to create the sauces. There are photos and step-by-step techniques. The basic souffles are here (hot, cold, sweet, savoury, molded, unmolded) plus more and some variations are noted. The book is set up as a primer for beginners. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginner
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: leek and pancetta souffle; fennel and salmon; chocolate; vanilla; fresh fruit; almond and praline.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
27.BUVETTE; the pleasure of good food (Grand Central Life & Style, 2014, 286 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-2552-2, $30 US hard covers) is by Jody Williams, chef and owner of Buvette, a top restaurant in NYC. She recently opened a second Buvette in Paris. With some log rolling headed by Alice Waters and Mario Batali, the book is a pretty good account of a restaurant's life in the world of French and Italian bistro cooking. She makes and serves the classic dishes in a book arranged by time of day (mornings, afternoons, aperitifs, evening, sweets). There is a chapter on beverages that deals with cocktails and covers some French wine regions, but otherwise there are no wine recommendations for the courses. Her chapter on larders discusses crème fraiche, vinaigrette, herbes de provence, pistou, pickles, rouille, and about a dozen more. Try oxtail marmalade, leeks in vinaigrette, salmon rillettes, pate de campagne, duck confit, or almond toffee. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
39.SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD. 40th Anniversary Ed. (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 1974, 1992, 2014, 455 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-24220-3, $24.99 US hard covers) is by the late Richard Olney, one of the better passionate writers of French cuisine. I remember reviewing this book in 1974 for the American Library Association, but over the years I had misplaced it. Olney began with "The French Menu Cookbook", criticized by some for being overly complicated. He was persuaded to come up with a "simple" book. This latest reissue comes with the original Foreward by James Beard (1974), the Introduction by Patricia Wells (1992), and a New Foreward by Mark Bittman (2014). There is also unabashed log rolling from Jacques Pepin and Alice Waters. He opens with some thoughts about French cooking, wine, breads, and then moves on to courses by ingredients. He also did all of the drawings in this book. As Wells says, "Olney shares with us the tactile, aromatic, visual joys of food." His reclusive ways belied his editing of all 27 volumes of the Time Life Good Cook series. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 92.
 
 
42.LA MERE BRAZIER; the mother of modern French cooking (Rizzoli, 2014; distr. Random House Canada, 272 pages, ISBN 978-0-8478-4096-0, $35 US hard covers) is by Eugenie Brazier who opened La Mere Brazier in 1921 in Lyon. She was awarded multiple Michelin stars. Her book was first published in 1977 in France (just as she died), but here it is in North America, available in English for the first time. Most of the recipes here come from her niece's husband, Roger Garnier, who was Brazier's chef for 20 years. The rest come from taped transcriptions in 1975. This is, in all senses, a Gallic memoir. There are photos, line drawings and classic menus (with page references). Paul Bocuse lends an informal foreward. Arrangement is by ingredient (eggs, fish, poultry, meat) or by course (apps, first courses, baking, desserts, butters). There is also glossary of cooking terms. This is classic French cooking, over 300 recipes, with reminiscences: beurrecks a la turque, ecrevisses a la nage, langouste au ricard, poulet saute a la provencale. Regional wine recommendations for each dish are made. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

The Event: Grand opening of Kadbanu, 771 Dundas Street West

The Date and Time: Wednesday, July 30, 2014  6PM to 9PM
The Event: grand opening of Kadbanu, 771 Dundas Street  West
The Venue: Kadbanu
The Target Audience: tastemakers, opinionmakers, and media.
The Quote/Background: Kadbanu (www.kadbanu.ca} is an Iranian restaurant opened by the Mohyeddin family who have Banu (www.banu.ca) at 777 Queen Street West, just a few blocks south of Kadbanu (which means "lady of the house"). The new restaurant will feature classic Iranian fare such as mirza ghasemi (smoked eggplant and tomato/garlic puree – my all-time fave), gormeh sabzi, tachin, and a Persian brunch, with the emphasis on "homemade"  casual family food, not high-end dining.
The Wines: There is a nominal wine list, including pinot grigio, but the emphasis is on spirits, with some cocktail punches. On offer tonight was an excellent cucumber punch with Iranian syrup, mint, and vodka. Outside on the patio, there was a delightful watermelon punch with syrup, mint and vodka. I had a serving of each, and ended up blending the two for a delightful cuke-melon cocktail, augmented with San Pellegrino sparkling water.
The Food: a pile of goodies were plattered and passed around, including dates with herbal cheese, chilled corn soup in shooyers, khoresht gheymeh (split pea and beef stew with saffron rice), a watermelon salad with sheep cheese feta, a roasted beet salad, mini-kofteh meatballs, and shakshuka (egg baked in a spicy tomato sauce). All yummy.
The Upside: I had been going to Banu off and on for quite some time so I was familiar with some of the food.
The Contact Person: ruggierh@gmail.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, August 4, 2014

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 
Casa Bianchi LEO Premium Malbec 2011 Mendoza, +375121 Vintages, $19.95: a nifty black fruit-laden wine, plummy and loaded with sweet tannins. Forest floor and savoury too, could be best with food. At the reserve level, 15% ABV. Part of its proceeds go to Leo Messi health and education projects to help disadvantaged Argentine youth. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
Strewn Terroir French Oak Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara, $24.95 winery: at 14.4% ABV, I was wowed by the ripeness of the wine, loaded with spices and caramel. Long, long finish after some tropicality. New and used French oak barrels, cork finish. For 2012, this wine was aged in two different ways – one in US oak, the other in French oak, selling for the same price of $24.95. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Riesling 2011 VQA Niagara, $16.95 winery: at 11.2% ABV, this wine beguiled me. Very much in the Mosel mode with lovely concentrated aromatics and the apricot-peach-citric triangle of tastes. Ever so slightly off-dry, enough for sipping on the patio or with a first  course. The 2012, at 11.9% ABV, is a bit drier, same price. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Fume Blanc 2012 VQA Niagara, $18.95 winery: a new wine to the portfolio, done up with barrel fermentation of sauvignon blanc (50% US and 50% Canadian oak). Rich and herby, tempered by the wood. Obviously needs time to resolve the toastiness, but will be worth the weight (I had the bottle open for a week). 13.6% ABV, twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 VQA Niagara, $29.80 winery: rich and meaty, ripe mintiness, black fruit, mocha, forest floor. 13.1% ABV, can be enjoyed now (almost 4 years after vintage), but will definitely improve. My fave red of the tasting. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Cabernet Franc Dry Late Harvest 2011 VQA Niagara, $38 winery: again, rich and meaty but this time from the late harvested grapes that were partially dehydrated on the vine (no drying on the mats here). Some dried fruit tones, raisins, figs, mocha, leather/earth, even "dusty". Needs rich or fatty foods, and more time – save a few more years. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Noble Cabernet Botrytis Affected 2011 VQA Niagara, $35 375 mL, winery: nicely sweet with a dry component on the finish, succulent, pale red just beyond rose, harvested third week into November. Cabernet Franc at 83%, Cabernet Sauvignon at 17%. With that decaying intensity, it is delicious anytime. 14.9% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay VQA, $30 +33936 June Vintages: I've tasted Le Clos Jordanne over the years (often calling it "Closer Dan", as a nod to baseball's lights out relief pitchers in the ninth inning: it has often shut down the competition). Here, at 13.5% ABV, the wine is a bit more restrained. Currently, the minerality is showing, but the core needs to soften a bit for harmony. This will come with age. On the mid-palate, the balance is shading to some aged complexity, and I can expect more of this in the future as the pattern holds for later consumption. From three estates around Jordan, each expressing the MVC of stone fruit, minerality, and acid balance – tempered by wood aging and, later of course, time. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2011 VQA, $40 +56929 July Vintages: here, with a delimited quantity of estate grapes from one vineyard, the wine is progressing with more orchard fruit tones. There is also more structure and complexity, leading to more concentration and finesse. Oaking is more mute and balanced, but will still need time to resolve. One for the cellar, certainly affordable at this price. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 VQA, $30 +33894 Vintages: the 2011 vintage in Ontario was very cool. Ontario pinot noir should then exhibit a range of Burgundian characteristics, muting any showiness typical of a warmer climate. This Village Reserve pinot, from four different vineyards about Jordan, is at 13% ABV according to the label. What had begun as complex red cherries has now evolved into some depth of red fruit in general (strawbs, rasps, cherries) with upper floral notes being integrated into the wood treatment. Forest floor is also present. Chosen by the winemaker Sebastien Jacquey as his Cuvee 2014 entry. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011 VQA, $40 +33902 Vintages: the cool 2011 vintage continued to show Burgundian characteristics in Ontario pinot noirs. From the eastern side of the vineyard. Ontario cranberries are showing well here, but there is also a dollop of black fruit (plum, black currants, blueberries). Tannins are maturing, but there is also some mushroom component as the forest floor continues to evolve. But some succulence is also here on the finish. A cellar keeper for many years.
13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2012 VQA NOTL, $19.95: uses exclusively the chardonnay clone 809 (18-year old vines, now about 20-years old, the same age as the Ontario Wine Awards by which this wine was declared a medal winner), an almost in-your-face aromatic honeysuckle beauty with some "muscat" grape quality. Unoaked, of course, and refreshing. 13% ABV, useful for social sipping or with lighter white meats. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir 2012 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $12.95, +57349 LCBO: medium-bodied, suggestive of Beaujolais (same grape variety). Easy drinking of cherry-berry flavours with occasional nuances of spices. Best for patios, parties, BBQ. Ready now, but with some tannic structure to carry through a whole meal. 13.5% ABV, cork closure. Winner of a Gold Medal at Ontario Wine Awards 2014.
Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Launch of Little Sister Indonesian Food Bar, July 23

The Date and Time: Wednesday July 23, 5PM to 9PM
The Event: Tastemaker's Event at Little Sister Indonesian Food Bar (2031 Yonge Street)
The Venue: Little Sister Indonesian Food Bar, Yonge Street
The Target Audience: opinionmakers and food/wine media
The Quote/Background: We were served two wines, S Balbo Crios Torrontes Mendoza on reception, followed by Tierra Divina Reds of Lodi California. Other white wines on the well-thought out list included Tawse Spark, Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine, Cave Spring Riesling, and Tawse Gewurztraminer. The bar list had eight cocktails, two of which were showcased tonight: Ubud Hangout (Rangpur gin, jalapeno black pepper syrup, fresh cilantro, cucumber and orange), and Little Brother (extra old rum, lime, housemade chai, angostura bitters, mint and ginger beer). Michael van den Winkel and Jennifer Gittins, co-owners (and they also own Quince across the street), described the food – The cuisines of Eastern Indonesia are similar to Polynesian and Melanesian cuisine, with elements of Chinese cuisine. Spices such as pala (nutmeg/mace), cengkeh (clove), daun pandan (Pandan leaves), kluwek (Pangium edule) and laos (galangal) are native to Indonesia. The Indonesian cuisine influenced colonial Dutch and Indo people that brought Indonesian dishes back to the Netherlands due to repatriation following the independence of Indonesia. In "The Art of Dutch Cooking" (1962) is written "There exist countless Indonesian dishes, some of which take hours to prepare; but a few easy ones have become so popular that they can be regarded as "national dishes". The author
provided recipes for nasi goreng (fried rice), pisang goreng (baked bananas), lumpia
goreng (fried spring rolls), bami (fried noodles), satay (grilled skewered meat), satay sauce(peanut sauce), and sambal oelek (chilli paste). One of the most well know Dutch-Indonesian fusion dish is the Rijsttafel ("Rice table"), which is an elaborate meal consisting of up to several dozen small dishes (hence filling "an entire table"). While popular in the Netherlands, Rijsttafel is now rare in Indonesia itself, as it
demonstrated both colonial opulence and the diversity of Indonesian cuisine. In contemporary Indonesian cuisine, it has been adapted into a western style prasmanan buffet. Quince serves a Rijsttafel about three times a year, by reservation.
The Food: we had samples of just about the entire menu, and all of them thrilled. Perhaps one of the best was the Balinese spiced chicken (satay lilit), although the pork satay babi was no slouch, nor was the chicken peanut stay ayam. These were followed by a selection of beef croquettes with Sumatra spicing (our next fave) and jakarta beef wontons, shrimp sambal, shredded chicken taco, and beef pendang taco, another fave. From the mains section, we had samples of just about everything (the fish was not offered): roasted pork belly babi panggang, braised beef semur Java, shrimp coconut curry, ayam panggang chicken, and sambal daging tamarind braised pork. A feast! Just about a scaled-down Rijsttafel – thirteen dishes in all! Hard to beat this kind of ambience with delicious cocktails, wines, and a parade of highly charged, spicy (but not hot) foods. Not to mention some of the people we managed to talk to...We were sent home with prawn crackers and peanut sauce.
The Contact Person: shannon@thecanadianoffice.com; info@quincetoronto.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 2, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 2, 2014
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
NOTE: It is getting more difficult to endorse wines under $20 for the simple reason that the LCBO does not release many of them (in the Vintages program) that can be deemed to be worthy of your consideration. So I will now just ADD some "under $25" suggestions from my BYOB section, along with point values.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Tanunda Creek Vineyards Loan Wines Special Reserve Semillon 2005 Unoaked Barossa, +301127, $16.95: delicious over-the-top waxy "Hunter Valley" style MVC semillon, 13.5% ABV, twist top. Even better as a mid-course BBQ wine. QPR: 92.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Angels Gate Old Vines Chardonnay 2011 VQA Beamsville Bench, +116350, $23.95. QPR: 93
2.Nyarai Cellars Viognier 2012 VQA Niagara, +378414, $21.95. QPR: 90
3.Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +164228, $24.95. QPR: 90
4.Chateau Thieuley Cuvee Francis Courselle Blanc 2010 Bordeaux, +2170, $22.95. QPR: 90
5.Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 2012, +183574, $21.95. QPR: 90
6.Henry of Pelham Family Tree White 2010 VQA Niagara, +251116, $17.95: meant to accompany the highly rated Red reviewed a few issues ago. This one is quality through mostly chardonnay (including musque), with gewurztraminer (29%) and viognier (14%). Try alone as a sipper. QPR: 89.
7.Fincas Patagonicas Zolo Torrontes 2013 Mendoza, +183913, $13.95: this is a dryish version, sip or food, with the lingering aromatic floral tones. Long finish promotes this wine to first-course food. QPR: 90.
8.Ventisquero Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Casablanca Valley, +211904, $13.95: terrific MVC savvy from Chile, 12.5% ABV, affordable. QPR: 89.
9.Chateau de la Bigotiere Sevre & Maine Sur Lie Muscadet 2012, +377739, $15.95: definite accompaniment to the catch of the day, straight down the middle MVC muscadet, 12% ABV. QPR: 89.
10.Domaine de Millet Colombard/Ugni Blanc 2012 IGP Cotes de Gascogne, +380733, $14.95: a good value summer food wine, lemons and herbs (garrigue) abound, nicely light at 11.5% ABV. Twist top. QPR: 89.
11.Camp Romain Laudun Cotes du Rhone-Villages Blanc 2013, +380725, $17.95: loaded with floral notes but better with seafood with its grenache blanc, clairette, viognier, and roussanne blend. 13% ABV, cork closure. QPR: 89.
12.Darting Durkheimer Michelsberg Riesling Kabinett 2012 Pfalz, +950212, $18.95: delicious exotic fruit tones, with citric backbite that also makes it useful with a first course, in addition to just sipping as an off-dry wine. 9.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.
13.Boutari Santorini 2013 Greece, +47985, $18.95: extremely fresh and youthful Santorini, the current darling white from Greece. Good acid and green fruit balance, lemon-fresh finish. QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Evans & Tate Metricup Road Cabernet/Merlot 2011 Margaret River, +376848, $22.95. QPR: 90.
2.Teusner The Riebke Shiraz 2012 Barossa, +48470, $24.95. QPR: 90.
3.Nederburg Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 WO Western Cape, +68767, $16.95: classic cabby, cork closure, 14.5% ABV. Will please everyone. QPR: 89.
4.Collefrisio Zero Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2011, +379040, $16.95: made in a modern North American appeal style with some finishing acid. Organic. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
5.Piccini Sasso Al Poggio 2008 IGT Toscana, +134809, $19.95: affordable supertuscan blend, 14% ABV, red and black fruit, some raisins, drying out nicely after six years. QPR: 89.
6.Tommasi Poggio Al Tufo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 IGT Toscana, +203927, $17.95: soft and fruity in North American style, 1 year in oak and should improve. 13% ABV. QPR: 89.
7.Arrocal 2012 Ribera del Duero, +67868, $17.95: All tempranillo, with depth, flavours, and oaking – all are here. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Angels Gate Old Vines Chardonnay 2011 VQA Beamsville Bench, +116350, $23.95 retail.
2.Nyarai Cellars Viognier 2012 VQA Niagara, +378414, $21.95.
3.Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +164228, $24.95.
4.Chateau Thieuley Cuvee Francis Courselle Blanc 2010 Bordeaux, +2170, $22.95.
5.Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 2012, +183574, $21.95.
6.Jean-Max Roger Cuvee C.M. Sancerre Blanc 2012, +196667, $27.95.
7.Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 VQA Niagara, +33894, $30.
8.St. Helena Road Winery Maier Family Meritage 2007 Sonoma County, +377135, $27.95.
9.Evans & Tate Metricup Road Cabernet/Merlot 2011 Margaret River, +376848, $22.95.
10.Teusner The Riebke Shiraz 2012 Barossa, +48470, $24.95.
11.Clos Marsalette 2010 Pessac-Leognan, +257691, $43.85.
12.Alpha Estate Red 2008 Unfiltered PGI Florina Greece, +92361, $31.95.
13.Molino del Piano Brunello di Montalcino 2008, +378422, $37.95.
14.Feudi San Pio Nero di Lupo Amarone della Valpolicella 2010, +375527, $36.95.


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Launch of Pan American Food Festival, Aug 8 through August 10

The Date and Time: Monday, July 21, 2014  2PM to 4PM
The Event: media presser for the second annual Pan American Food Festival, slotted for Friday, August 8 through Sunday August 10.
The Venue: Valdez Restaurant, King Street
The Target Audience: wine and food writers and bloggers
The Quote/Background: The Pan American Food Festival is the only festival in the world that celebrates the food and culture of the Western Hemisphere. It returns to Toronto for a second year (Aug 8 – 10) and at least a third year in 2015, when it will be in mid-July at the same time as the Pan Am Games. [I have mixed feelings about this timing since it may be overwhelmed by the Games; my own thoughts would be to have it immediately before or afterward]. Daniel Gorcia Herros (Festival Director), Mary Luz Meija (culinary director), and Francisco Alvarez (Board chair) spoke about the PanAm Festival which will be held at Daniels Spectrum, 585 Dundas East at Regent Park. This year, 41 countries will be represented, including 20 Pan American chefs demoing dishes. This year's feature chef is South Florida's Norman Van Aken, considered the founder of fusion Latin New World cuisine (he's on at 3PM Saturday Aug 9). The Host country is Peru, which is bringing up Chef Roger Arakaki from Lima. As part of the festival, there is the Totalmente Tamales Competition, Pan/orama art exhibit, a Wine a& Spirits Salon, and a Youth World Cup football-soccer event. Out on the street there will be a Pan American Market with food vendors, tourism information, and merchandise. For more details, visit Facebook (PanamericanFoodFestival) and www.panamfoodfest.com, which has the schedule.
The Wines: we had no alcohol, just water
The Food: cornmeal empanada (beef, potato, and pea mix) and hot sauce, followed by wood-toasted bread with chicken and a tangerine mayo dressing, both prepared by Chef Steve Gonzalez (who will be representing Columbia at the event).
The Contact Person: Amanda Fruci, mediadirector@panamfoodfest.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Ontario Wine Promotion Program, Sep 14 - Oct 11: media preview

The Date and Time: Thursday, July 10, 2014  10 AM to 4 PM
The Event: Taste Local: annual LCBO Ontario wine promotion September 14 to October 11, media preview.
The Venue: LCBO Large Tasting Room
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: all NEW wines will be available by September 14.
The Quote/Background: This year's promotion features 173 products from more than 30 Ontario wineries, running in 484 stores from September 14 to October 11. On Sept 13, Vintages will include 22 Ontario VQA wines in its release and add 4 new VQA wines to the Vintages Essentials portfolio. About 155 restaurants across Ontario will have their own Taste Local program with by-the-glass servings during this period. The Taste Ontario promotion will effectively end after the signature Ontario wine tasting at the ROM, October 12, 6:30 – 9 PM.
The Wines: There are 21 new Ontario VQA wines available, we tasted most of them today, plus some others from the Vintages and Essentials release.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Peller Family Series Sauvignon Blanc VQA 2013, +371864, $11.95.
-Angels Gate Handsome Brut VQA sparkling, $24.95
-Norm Hardie County Pinot Noir 2012 VQA PEC, +125310 Vintages, $39
-Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling Vinemount Ridge VQA 2011, +241182 Vintages, $35.20
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Colio Bricklayer's Predicament Cabernet Merlot VQA 2012, +371575, $14.95
-Vintage Ink Rite of Passage Chardonnay VQA 2012, +245712, $16.95
-Vintage Ink Mark of Passion Merlot-Cabernet VQA 2011, +250209, $17.95
-Inniskillin Pinot Grigio VQA 2013, +348979, $14.95
-Silver Ray Riesling Gewurztraminer VQA 2013, +372771, $13.95
-Peninsula Ridge Riesling VQA 2013, +387043, $12.95
-Featherstone Cab Franc 2012 VQA, +64618 Vintages $17.95
-The Foreign Affair Conspiracy Red 2012 VQA, +149237, $19.95 Vintages
-Hidden Bench Pinot Noir 2011 VQA, +274753, $32.95 Vintages
-Bricklayer's Reward Sauvignon Blanc 2013 VQA, Vintages +391466, $15.95
-Sprucewood Shores Chardonnay Unoaked Hawk's Flight 2013 VQA LENS, +391730, $16.95
-Tawse Grower's Blend Pinot Noir 2010 VQA, +1300989 Vintages, $24.95
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sandbanks Sauvignon Blanc VQA 2012, +355974, $16.95
-Bricklayer's Predicament Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio VQA 2013, +371567, $14.95
-Silver Bay Pinot Noir VQA 2013, +372789, $14.95
-Wayne Gretzky Estates Riesling VQA 2101, +144865, $13.95
-EastDell Estates Soaring White VQA 2013, +387431, $13.95
-Angels Gate Riesling VQA 2010, $13.95 +160523
-Open Smooth White VQA 2013, +387050, $11.95
-Scarlet Red Cabernet Franc VQA 2013, +387067, $14.95
-Pillitteri Canadian Gothic Chardonnay VQA 2012, $12.95
-Pillitteri Canadian Gothic Cabernet Merlot VQA 2011, $12.95
-Rockway Patio 9 White VQA 2013 spoarkling, $12.95, +341693
-Rosehall Run Cuvee County Chardonnay 2011 PEC VQA $21.95 +132928 Vintages
-13th Street Cabernet Merlot 2012, +56598, $19.95 Vintages
 
The Food: none
The Contact Person: cheryl@themintagency.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, July 28, 2014

HEALTHY COOKBOOKS GALORE!!

KEEP YOUR BRAIN YOUNG (Robert Rose, 2014, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0472-7, $24.95 CAN soft covers) is by Fraser Smith, ND, prominent naturopathic academic, and Ellie Aghdassi, PhD, RD, dementia researcher and academic in Toronto. It is a book in line with other self-health books from Rose, covering arthritis, skin, diabetes, liver, et al. Because we are all growing older, we need to keep our brains in shape to avoid neurological diseases such as Alzheimer's and Parkinson's. It is more important than ever to age well. The book deftly summarizes the issues on age-related diseases, proposes a 12-step healthy brain diet to help prevent or delay damage, and has 150 recipes done up in Rose style, with tips and notes and nutrient tables. Recipes come from other Rose books, and these are noted as to author or authority. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.  At the end there are periodical and book references as well as websites and web-pages listed.
Audience and level of use: those interested in a program to prevent brain damage.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the number of those with Alzheimer's is expected to triple by 2050. Anti-oxidants from fruits and veggies can protect the brain against disease. The brain can make new neural connections in the elderly.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
4.HOMEGROWN TEA; an illustrated guide to planting, harvesting, and blending teas and tisanes (St.Martin's Griffin, 2014, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-03941-5, $23.99 US paper covers) is by Cassie Liversidge, a UK gardener-food writer who last wrote Grow Your Own Pasta Sauce, about eating home grown food. Here she looks at tea gardening (backyard, balcony, and window sill). She delves into growing tea from seeds, cuttings and small plants. She gives details on when and how to harvest, plus how to prepare and dry the teas for year-long storage. She's got sections on nutritional and medicinal benefits as well as an illustrated guide on prepping fresh and dried teabags. Arrangement is by part of the plant: leaves, followed by seeds, fruits, flowers, and roots. There is also a plant reference chart, and index of plants, and some recommended sources.
Audience and level of use: a book for the tea completist.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: under sage, she lists varieties and botanical names, medical benefits, growing, harvesting, making the tea, some relevant tips for making bag blends – as well as an illustration of the leaves.
The downside to this book: no recipes for cooking with teas.
The upside to this book: good encouragement for tea drinkers.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
6.THE FRENCH COOK: souffles (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 128
pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3612-0, $21.99 US hard covers) is by Greg Patent, a Bear Award winning author for 2002, a blogger, and radio host. This is the third in a new series on French cuisine, here dealing with the basics of souffles: mainly how to beat eggs and how to create the sauces. There are photos and step-by-step techniques. The basic souffles are here (hot, cold, sweet, savoury, molded, unmolded) plus more and some variations are noted. The book is set up as a primer for beginners. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginner
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: leek and pancetta souffle; fennel and salmon; chocolate; vanilla; fresh fruit; almond and praline.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
9.GLUTEN-FREE MADE EASY (Front Table Books, 2014, 268 pages, ISBN 978-1-4621-1408-5, $22.99 US paper covers) is by Christi Silbaugh and Michelle Vilseck. Silbaugh is an active blogger, with three on the go, plus lots more food social media interactions; her daughter was diagnosed with celiac disease in 2009. Vilseck has needed to be gluten-free for the past 11 years or so. Together they have created more than 150 preps in this book plus the tips and tricks involved in putting the dishes together. There's a primer (here, called FAQ) and some resources, plus a glossary and endnotes. The thrust here is on family cooking, so there are lots of things that kids could make, eat and enjoy. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those who need GF foods.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: raspberry breakfast bars; peanut butter power balls; cauliflower pizza crust and cheesy bread; parmesan crusted halibut; mini-taco salads; flour-free cloud bread.
The downside to this book: like many other GF books, this one – sadly – has no "chewy" bread recipe. It's the Holy Grail of GF food.
The upside to this book: I love the large print and the bolding of the ingredient lists.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
11.THE GREEK YOGURT KITCHEN (Grand Central Life & Style, 2014; distr. Hachette, 242 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-5120-0, $20 US paper covers) is by Toby Amidor, MS, RD, a top nutrition advisor and consultant to major groups, including Foodnetwork.com. Here she gives us a basic yogurt cookbook, using Greek yogurt as the base since it is a trendy power food. And with seven log rollers. So long as the nutritional benefits of Greek yogurt carry through, then you can cook with it. Otherwise, it may be best just as it comes out of the fridge. It's a form of yogurt that has been strained to remove a lot of the whey, which results in a lower fat content and higher protein content. This also means that it has lower levels of lactose. If you have to, you could substitute just about any unflavoured organic yogurt. Whatever you do, you must check the label to see what is in the yogurt: go for simple, cultured, and unflavoured. The 133 recipes here are a beginning. They range from traditional breakfast food through snacks, apps, salads, mains, and desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those who are lactose sensitive, health food fans.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: crustless mushroom quiche; buttermilk chicken fingers; mexican-sty6led creamed corn; coconut lemon cookies; dulce de leche bowl.
The downside to this book: the use of "Greek" yogurt is overplayed when other forms can also be used.
The upside to this book: good selection of recipes, including one for making your own low-fat Greek yogurt by straining out the whey.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
13.THE HUNGRY GIRL DIET (St. Martin's Griffin, 2014, 285 pages, ISBN 978-0-312-67679-7, $26.99 US hard covers) is by celebrity Lisa Lillien, author and TV personality of a series of Hungry Girl books going back five years – over 2 million were sold. She's got hungry-girl.com (with a free companion app to create shopping lists and track one's food) and shows on the Food Network and Cooking Channel. Here she proposes a diet of big portions, big results, and dropping 10 pounds in four weeks. It has all been vetted by David Grotto, RD. There are 60 easy recipes, including Hungry Girl classics such as oatmeal bowls, egg mugs, salads, and foil packs. And the usual tips, tricks, hints, strategies, how-tos, and food swaps or substitutions. The emphasis, as always, is on lean protein, fat-free and reduced dairy, fresh fruits and vegetables, and huge portions for volume. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.
 
19.RAWLICIOUS AT HOME; more than 100 raw, vegan and gluten-free recipes to make you feel great (Appetite by Random House, 2014, 174 pages, ISBN 978-0-449-01618-3, $29.95 paper covers) is by Angus Crawford and Chelsea Clark, founders and co-owners of a Rawlicious mini-chain/franchise in Toronto and southern Ontario (six in all, and one just around the corner from me). This is an easy cookbook, inspired by their own resto dishes, for home preps. There is a full ranger here from drinks/smoothies, breakfasts, apps, soups, right through to desserts. There is even a section of 12 preps for common staples such as pizza crust, burger buns, tortillas, herb and onion flatbreads, and various "cheeses" from nuts. A primer covers the "raw life" and pantry/larder. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Typical recipes embrace a raw/vegan/gluten-free side of pad Thai, nori rolls, coffee cheesecake, and mint chocolate chip ice cream. Lots of white space and large type is a good thing here for the kitchen, but the typeface for the index is smaller than it could be. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
21.GALE GAND'S LUNCH (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-54422650-0, $27.99 US hard covers) is by a Bear Award winner and co-founder of TRU in Chicago. She has made multiple appearances on Food Network shows, including hosting Sweet Dreams. She's written seven other cookbooks. Focusing writer Christie Matthews is a food writer, and coauthor of other food books, including one other book with Gale Gand. To complete the picture there is an A-list of log rollers, including Batali, Cat Cora, Moulton, and Dupree. Gand tries to re-invent lunch, steering people away from a medley of breakfast leftovers and vending machines and food courts, to some decent and relevant food. There are 150 heal;thy and homemade lunches here. Some of them are school lunches, while others are picnics or midday parties. All of it is fine, but it helps to have kids to partially prepare their own meals, and there is still the problem of socializing at work. There is a vast difference between eating at your desk, in a work lunchroom, and in a food court. Although, maybe with social media, we actually no longer have to talk to anybody over lunch – just text your way through the meal. Rustic ratatouille tart shines, as does a variety of veggie and fruit salads. Chipotle cheddar biscuits are filling, and Israeil couscous with cranberries and toasted pecans is something new. Well worth looking at, although time can be a problem. Healthwise, lunch should be the biggest meal of the day, loaded with energy and protein and carbos – to sustain you.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
22.TEA & TREATS; perfect pairings for brews and bakes (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-497-2, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Liz Franklin, a finalist in the BBC Masterchef competition, BBC food host and producer, and now cookery school owner and food writer. She's written two other cookbooks. Here she offers us ideas on tea time. She has 60 recipes matching tea and sweet treats. She defines the types of teas and then proposes a small baked good. So for white sweet tea (pai mu tan), there is cardamom shortbread; for fennel tea, there is lemon and almond financier. For teas you don't like, you can always make the treat and have them with something comparable. The major arrangement is by class: breakfast tea, calming tea, different tea, afternoon tea, and dinner party tea. It is a great gift book for a tea lover. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There is also a sources list (UK and US only). Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
33.THE WHOLE LIFE NUTRITION COOKBOOK; a complete nutritional and cooking guide for healthy living (Grand Central Life and Style, 2014; distr. Hachette, 449 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-8189-4, $26 US paper covers) is by Alissa Segersten (once a personal chef and now cooking instructor) and Tom Malterre (an academic nutritionist). Together they also run the Whole Life Nutrition website. Here are over 300 "whole foods" recipes, including gluten-free, dairy-free, soy-free, and egg-free dishes. Almost something for everyone. It was originally published in 2008, and it is now updated into virtually a brand-new book. Even the bibliography is current: there are references to 2014 works. It is thorough and comprehensive, beginning with a primer on diet sensitivities, the need for whole foods, the larder, the equipment, the cooking techniques. The recipes are arranged by courses, from soups to desserts, with diversions to smoothies, bacteria-cultured foods, whole grains, dips and sauces, snacks and beverages. All with large type, easy to use instructions, and tips/tricks. There is also a web resources listing; there's more at www.wholelifenutrition.net(recipes, courses, newsletters, blogs). Various diets are discussed as there is some benefits in every one of them. I could not find any discussion on alcoholic beverages, not even through the index. While there is a table of US equivalents (weights and volumes), preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
34.TRUE FOOD; season, sustainable, simple, pure (Little,
Brown, 2012, 2104, 255 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-12940-4, $19 US
paper covers) is by Andrew Weil and Sam Fox, with Michael
Stebner. Weil is well-known for his books and columns on
alternative health practices and issue (including many food
recipes). He is partner with Sam Fox in the True Food
Kitchen chain. Stebner is the executive chef of these
restaurants. The work comes heavily endowed with log
rollers Alice Waters and Marion Nestle. This is the 2014
paperback reprint. It's a book based
on SLOFE principles (seasonal, local, organic, fast, and
easy); there are about 150 recipes adapted from the six
restaurant chain. The important thing you need to know
about Andrew Weil is that the guy is completely
trustworthy: he has impressed me for over 20 years. Other
than that, this is good food with plenty of explanations
from Weil and a pantry to start up. You cannot go wrong
here. There are good illustrations and sufficient white
space in the book's layout. The chapters follow a daily
meal, with breakfast, appetizers, salads, soups, mains,
pasta, veggies, desserts and drinks (only a few with
alcohol). This is a good book for the struggling dieter –
you will get your appetite sated. Dishes include chocolate-
banana tart, stir-fried long beans with citrus-sesame
sauce, bibimbap, bison umami burger, and halibut with
fingerling potatoes. There are no tables of nutritional
sources. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents, which is a shame for international sales.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
35.CROHN'S & COLITIS DIET GUIDE. 2D ed (Robert Rose, 2008, 2014, 336 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0478-9, $24.95 CAN soft covers) is by A. Hillary Steinhart, MD, Mount Sinai Hospital, and Julie Cepo, RD. It accompanies Dr. Steinhart's Crohn's & Colitis Understanding & Managing IBD (also in a second edition). The major part of the book, here revised since its 2008 publication date, is a FAQ about food and IBD, along with a primer on causes, symptoms and therapies. These are proven dietary strategies for managing IBD, with menus and meal planning, tips on maintaining good nutrition, and 175 recipes. Over 25 new ones have been added, to take into account new foods such as banana cinnamon quinoa waffles, or new techniques such as slow cooker squash couscous. The preps largely come from two dozen Rose cookbooks, which have been vetted, of course, for their IBD relationship. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of metric equivalents. Each recipe has been noted as vegetarian or vegan, low cal, low fat, high protein, lactose, fibre, sodium, and others. Lots of tips for following a low fibre diet. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
36.THE GLUTEN-FREE TABLE; the Lagasse girls share their favorite meals (Grand Central Life & Style, 2012, 2014, 230 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-1687-2, $17 US soft covers) is by Jilly and Jessie Lagasse, daughters of Emeril Lagasse. It was originally released in hardback in 2012, and this is the paperback release. In 2004 Jilly was diagnosed with celiac disease. Jessie, at some point, needed to follow a gluten-free diet. Both of course have been food-inspired by their upbringing, so it seemed to be a no-brainer that a gluten-free cookbook was in the shaping. They have taken their fave preps from childhood and family and redeveloped them into tasty, celiac-friendly alternatives.
There's about 100 recipes, of family favourites, Southern classics, and
ten original preps from Emeril himself. It's all arranged by course,
from apps to sweets. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
There's a concluding list of resources and website. Some interesting or unusual recipes redefine Southern food: cornbread and Andouille stuffed pork chops; baked halibut with creole tomato and Vidalia onion vinaigrette; cheesy shrimp and crab grits; mini goat cheese and fig pizzas. Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
38.DELICIOUS DIABETES COOKING FOR ONE OR TWO PEOPLE (Robert Rose, 2014, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0476-5, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Michelle Berriedale-Johnson, founder of the Free From Food Awards (food allergy/intolerance). It was originally published in 2013 in London by Grub Street. These preps have been specifically designed for one or two (they can be scaled upwards), and can be used by anyone who needs low-sugar restrictions. With some modifications they can also be used for managing dairy or gluten allergies. Everything is fairly easy. Each prep has full nutritional analysis, larger type face, and tips. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Arrangement is by course, from apps and soups to baked goods and desserts. Typical are herb frittata, moules marinieres, pasta and broccoli gratin, and cod with chilies. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
43.BLOOD SUGAR: quinoa & healthy living (New Holland, 2013; distr. T.Allen, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-74257456-1, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Michael Moore. It is a collection of previously published recipes from his Blood Sugar cookbook series, with some additional new preps using quinoa. Moore has owned or managed numerous restaurants in London and Sydney, including the Ritz Hotel London and the Bluebird London. He is currently the chef and owner of O Bar and Dining in Sydney. This is basically a diabetic book (Moore is a diabetic) but also one for clean, healthy living. It is divided into meals, with breakfast, light meals and snacks, mains and desserts. He's got figs on toast with ricotta, hot milk and barley porridge, homemade breakfast bars, plank-roasted salmon with quinoa tzatziki, strawberry quinoa custard pie, and more. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
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Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, July 26, 2014

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! - Egg (Ruhlman)

EGG; a culinary exploration of the world's most versatile ingredient (Little, Brown and Company, 2014; distr. Hachette, 236 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-25406-9, $40 US hard covers) is by Michael Ruhlman, who started writing about and collaborating with the lives of chefs two decades ago. His food reference series includes The Book of Schmaltz, Ruhlman's Twenty, Ratio, The Elements of Cooking, and Charcuterie. He co-wrote books with Thomas (French Laundry) Keller. He's a Beard Award winner and an IACP winner. He envisioned the structure for this book as a flowchart with the whole egg at the top; it is included in a pocket, inside the back cover. The egg is the Rosetta stone to the kitchen, and Ruhlman treats it that way, with deep respect. There are about 100 preps here to celebrate basic poached and scrambled eggs, followed by mayonnaise, pasta, custards, quiches, and cakes. The recipes have chapters based on techniques: whole eggs (in shell, out of shell, blended), as ingredient in doughs, and separated (yolk, white, used together but separated). There is an index by technique and a general index, as well as many technique step-by-step photos by his wife. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly metric with avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents listed.
Audience and level of use: beginners can use this book
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: shirred eggs Florentine; picadillo meatballs;  corn and sweet pepper fritters; Italian drop cookies with lemon glaze; profiteroles; rum-soaked cherry bread; omelet with creamy moral mushrooms; crepes.
The downside to this book: nothing really, except it is heavy by weight.
The upside to this book: excellent photography by his wife, Donna Turner Ruhlman.
Quality/Price Rating: 92.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Friday, July 25, 2014

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! - Craft Beer Revolution

THE CRAFT BEER REVOLUTION; how a band of microbrewers is transforming the world's favorite drink (Palgrave Macmillan, 2014; distr. Raincoast, 250 pages, ISBN 978-1-137-27876-0, $25 US hard covers) is by Steve Hindy, co-founder of the Brooklyn Brewery, It comes loaded with 17 different log rollers, most of whom are associated with the US microbrewing industry. It is a basic history of the past 50 years' explosion of artisanal crafted beer. The pioneers started the demand for strong flavours, all-malt, and higher alcohol than the frankly acknowledged horse piss of the major players. It is also about independence and the frontier, reflected in the labels that are just short of cuss words and incitement to riots. There are more than 3000 craft brewers in the US, with more being added all the time; they have about 10% of the total market. There is comparable growth in Canada, but the regulatory bodies have nipped the flashy labeling. For example, in the UK, 140 labels have been pulled since 1989. Rebel brands are a big deal in the US, especially south of the Mason-Dixon line where some labels really are rebel, as in Civil War. Still, there are fractious factions in the craft brewing industry, and he pulls no punches. Hindy also discusses the acquisition period where big money meets craft brewing (1994 – 2000). There are notes on the associations (Brewers' Association of America and the Association of Brewers). But nothing on NAFTA or free trade. There are black and white photos scattered throughout this good business history book.
Audience and level of use: students of beer.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: "The future of craft brewing largely depends on how that [Brewer's Association] power is wielded."
The downside to this book: American examples and usage.
The upside to this book: much of the scene in Canada follows the US course.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com