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Sunday, August 17, 2014

New Wines Tasted this month

1.Stratus Kabang Red 2011 VQA Niagara, + $: another juicy cabernet blend from JL Groulx, winemaker behind Stratus. The blend is largely Bordeaux-style (cabernet sauvignon 28%, cabernet franc 15, merlot 24, petit verdot 9, malbec 4, with syrah at 21%), and the usual fine tuning of French oaking (247 days) with 13% new oak. Results are mostly black fruit tones and wood spices at 14.8% ABV in a twist top bottle. As the winery says, it is ready to go. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
2.Stratus Wildass Rose 2013 VQA Niagara, +71712, $17.95: another top notch Groulx blend with merlot, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, and semillon in the mix. It's been in used French oak for three months, and tops out at 13.9% ABV in a twist top bottle. The 2012 was a much darker red colour but its alcohol was only 12.5% ABV. The pale red tones, the dried fruit tones, and the garrigue tones strongly suggest the south of France. Ultimately, this wine is better with food (first course, salad) than with sipping. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
3.Sileni Cellar Selection Chardonnay 2013 Hawke's Bay New Zealand, +358994, $15: a fairly basic chardonnay, MVC for the region, brimming with orchard fruit and some oak tones (due to partial French oak barrel fermentation). And there was some partial malolactic fermentation. 12.5% ABV, twist top. Good price-point. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
4.Poquito Moscato NV Valencia Spain, +377143 seasonal $5.95: a nifty idea – a half-bottle (375 mL) of a fizzy moscato, but here from Spain. 5% ABV, crown cap for ease of opening, great price for two people to finish off a meal. It's the Muscat of Alexandria grape, known far and wide as the grapey sweet wine under 140 other different names such as moscatel and zibibbo. Lots of oranges and peaches, and a nice fizz component. At this price it should fly off the shelves!  Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
5.Jackson-Triggs Chardonnay Grand Reserve 2012 VQA Niagara, +593996, $19.95: I was a fan of the 2011 vintage when it arrived at the LCBO last year, and this one continues the orchard fruit with a lemon finish complexity, aided by creamy butterscotch. It's a bit lean, but the toastiness promotes a long finish on the mid-palate. I quite like it just as much as the 2011, but like the 2011, it could use a bit more bottle age. Full malolactic in French oak, then aged 5 months on the lees in one year old barrels. 13.5% ABV.  Unfortunately, the price has gone up two bucks over the 2011 (which of course was underpriced). Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
6.Chateau des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2013 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake,
$25.95 for 200 mL, +565861: a compact icewine with apricot as the defining aroma and flavour, followed by honey tones. Ready now, but should be aged – but then it will taste different and, in my opinion, taste better. 9% ABV. Perfect for gifting (comes in a handsome box). Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
7.Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir Old Vines 2013 VQA NOTL, +256834, $18.95: I think that this is the first de Charmes' "Old Vines" Pinot in some time. Quite a powerful wine (the 2007 was a Cuvee winner), lots of forest floor (mushrooms, earth) to complement the red fruit. Needs time. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
8.Saint Clair Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +237255, $15.95: full of ripe fruit and cut grass, with zesty kiwi savvy tones (herbs, grapefruit). 13% ABV. Twist top, best with anything grilled (e.g., veggies). Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
9.Two Oceans Pinot Grigio 2014 WO Western Cape South Africa, +295022, $10.25: my first 2014 wine this year, typical with crisp lemon tones, finish suggests first course foods. 12.5% ABV, Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
10.Nugan Estates Alfredo Dried Grapes Shiraz 2012 SEA Riverina, McLaren Vale, NSW, +376707 Vintages, $26.95: a limited release of an Oz amarone style (dried shiraz grapes) then done up in US and French oak for a year. Plums and peppers (savoury), both black and red fruit, dark chocolate and mocha, underbrush. Dense and chewy at this point, needs back-and-forth decanting. 14.5% ABV, twist top. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
11.Nugan Estates Alfredo Second Pass Shiraz 2012 SEA, +368811, $15.95: a limited release of an Oz ripasso style (the wine is pressed onto the pomace and yeast lees of Dried Grape Shiraz, noted above) and then into French and US oak (the reverse of the Dried Grapes Shiraz above) for a year. The label suggests tones of rhubarb, cherry, tobacco, but I could also add some earth/underbrush and mocha.14% ABV, twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 16, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 16, 2014
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
NOTE: It is getting more difficult to endorse wines under $20 for the simple reason that the LCBO does not release many of them (in the Vintages program) that can be deemed to be worthy of your consideration. So I will now just ADD some "under $25" suggestions, along with point values.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
Gerard Bertrand Saint Chinian Syrah/Mourvedre 2009, +370247, $17.95: this month;s candidate for a nicely aged syrah from the south of France. MVC all the way, with some movvie tones. 14.5% ABV, cork closure. QPR: 92.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Dr.Hermann Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese 2005 Mosel, +376368, $23.95. QPR: 92.
2.Tawse Redstone Limestone Vineyard South Riesling 2012 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, +381251, $18.95: off-dry and delicious, 9.5% ABV, twist top. Perfect for summer sipping, lovely fruity flavours. QPR: 89.
3.Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara Escarpment, +38117, $19.95: one of the finest traditional-styled Rieslings in Ontario, distinguished, age-worthy, 9% ABV. Good Mosel character. QPR: 89.
4.Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2012 Casablanca, +390203, $19.95: well-priced treasure chest of chardonnay aromas and bouquets, balanced, toasty wood-finish, 14%, cork closure. QPR: 91.
5.Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +734798, $18.95: some good character, tamed grass, tropical fruit peeps out, long finish, twist top, 13% ABV. QPR: 89.
6.Excelsior Sauvignon Blanc 2013 WO Robertson South Africa, +382085, $12.95: nice price-point for a balanced savvy that is delicious and not overly zesty. QPR: 89.
7.Guillaume Aurele Viognier 2013 IGP Pay d'Oc, +380741, $13.95: layers of fruit, longish finish, good south of France MVC feel, affordable twist top. QPR: 89.
8.Durbacher Klingelberger Riesling Trocken 2012 Baden, +378331, $16.95: close to Alsace in style (it is made not far away, same climate), very good Riesling character, 11.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Decero Remolinos Vineyard Malbec 2011 Agrelo Mendoza, +247304, $22.95. QPR: 90.
2.Chateau de Lastours Grande Reserve Corbieres 2008, +383067, $22.95. QPR: 90.
3.Ninin de Antonio Izquierdo 2009 Ribera del Duero, +380766, $23.95. QPR: 91
4.Domaine Bousquet Reserve Malbec 2012 Uco Valley Mendoza, +55244, $15.95: very bright fruit driven wine, 15% ABV, organic grapes, malbec to a T. QPR: 89.
5.Chateau de Gourgazaud Cuvee Mathilde Minervois 2011, +958629, $14.95: good blend of syrah and mourvedre, not at the level of Bertrand (above) but still very syrah-dominated. 13.5% ABV. Cork closure, QPR: 89.
6.Apollonio Copertino Rosso 2007 Puglia, +23226, $18.95: plummy, good depth to the aging (now seven years old), 14% ABV, a bargain. QPR: 89.
7.Zeni Marogne Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2011, +220830, $17.95: this month's LCBO ripasso. QPR: 89.
8.Lopez de Haro Crianza 2008 Rioja, +377481, $15.95: a nicely aged wine, 18 months in French and American oak – which is three times the norm for a Crianza. Expect tobacco and dried fruit tones, excellent for the next year. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $25
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Norman Hardie Niagara Unfiltered Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara, +184432, $39.20 retail
2.Chateau Les Cruzelle 2010 Lalande-de-Pomerol, +257907, $39.95
3.Patrizi Barolo 2008, +653527, $28.95
4.Villa Annaberta Amarone della Valpolicella 2010, +338921, $39.95
5.Prats & Symington Post Scriptum de Chryseia 2011 Douro, +67538, $29.95
6.Bodegas Olarra Erudito Reserva Especial 2008 Rioja, +378885, $36.95
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, August 11, 2014

The Event: Pan American Food Festival Launch of Peruvian Pisco Santiago Queirolo Pisco Acholado 2013

The Date and Time: Sunday August 10, 2014  3PM to 5PM
The Event: Pan American Food Festival Launch of Peruvian Pisco Santiago Queirolo Pisco Acholado 2013
The Venue: Daniels Spectrum
The Target Audience: wine and food media
The Availability/Catalogue: this pisco is not yet available in Ontario, but was launched here as part of Peru's sponsorship of the Pan Am Food Festival. Jose Luis Peroni, Director of the Trade Office of Peru spoke to us about Peru. They will be hosting the Pan Am games in Lima in 2019.
The Quote/Background: Giancarol Cassinelli Ledgard, director of exports, spoke about his pisco with a slide presentation
The Beverages: we had three beverages. First up was Ciao Bianco Pinot Grigio NV IGT Veneto, one litre tetra pak at $12.65, +669200, a colourless vinous wine suitable for quaffing. Next there was a fabulous Mexican red, L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah 2011, which has been coming into Vintages for quite some time and is now a Vintages Essential at $11.95, +988742. I had some that was opened the night before, it was pretty good in flavour. The fresh sample I had was still tannic, so I'd suggest a double-(or more) decant first. The highlight was of course the Peruvian Pisco Santiago Queirolo Pisco Acholado 2013, 42% ABV, competitively priced but not yet available in Ontario. Pisco is made from grapes of the muscat family, so the flavour and character is pretty much grapey, a good thing. The closest I can some to would be Italian Moscato grappa. But Giancarlo took pains to assure me that the clear spirit comes from fresh-pressed grape juice, and not pomace. They make other pisco, notably "uva Quebranta" and "uva Italia".
The company also makes a range of wines, and these too might be available in Ontario – in the run-up to the Peruvian Pan Am games.
The Food: Moustache Friendly, through Prince Massey, provided the food, with a detailed deiscussion on how the food goes with pisco and wines. We began with spicy beets and goat cheese salad on biscuits with sprouts, continuing with tandoori skewers with a jalpeno/mango chutney, then a bison burger on thinly sliced ciabatta. This was followed by picana (tri-tip, best cut in Latin America) both with and without grilled pineapple, and then skewers of fruit. Excellent preparations and catering all round, kudos.
The Downside: there were only about 20 people attending
The Upside: a chance to taste some wine and pisco with the food of Moustache Friendly.
The Contact Person: yvette.astorga@gmail.com; peroni@perucanadatrade.com;
gcassinelli@santiagoqueirolo.com; mjordan.cipelli@bellnet.ca.
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, August 9, 2014

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
13.THE HUNGRY GIRL DIET (St. Martin's Griffin, 2014, 285 pages, ISBN 978-0-312-67679-7, $26.99 US hard covers) is by celebrity Lisa Lillien, author and TV personality of a series of Hungry Girl books going back five years – over 2 million were sold. She's got hungry-girl.com (with a free companion app to create shopping lists and track one's food) and shows on the Food Network and Cooking Channel. Here she proposes a diet of big portions, big results, and dropping 10 pounds in four weeks. It has all been vetted by David Grotto, RD. There are 60 easy recipes, including Hungry Girl classics such as oatmeal bowls, egg mugs, salads, and foil packs. And the usual tips, tricks, hints, strategies, how-tos, and food swaps or substitutions. The emphasis, as always, is on lean protein, fat-free and reduced dairy, fresh fruits and vegetables, and huge portions for volume. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
14.FIRE & SMOKE (Clarkson Potter, 2014, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7704-3438-0, $24.99 US soft covers) is by Chris Lilly, executive chef and partner of Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q. Their competition cooking team has won 10 World BBQ Championships, six other world titles, and other competitions. Lilly has also written Big Bob Gibson's BBQ Book. It is just one of many new BBQ books unleashed this season (see below for others), by competition champion celebrities and cookbook authors. Each, of course, has pitmaster secrets and also reflects as a Good Ol' Boy. Lilly combines the speed of grilling with smoky flavours of low-and-slow BBQ. No special equipment required: just the hot grill of smoldering coals and a rack or pan. There are 100 preps here, covering BBQ oysters, lamb ribs, grilled pizza, smoked pork belly confit, and cowboy ribeye. Sides, apps, salads, desserts, and cocktails are also here. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Profusely illustrated. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
15.VIRGIL'S BARBECUE ROAD TRIP COOKBOOK; the best barbecue from around the country without ever leaving your backyard (St. Martin's Press, 2014, 335 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-04109-8, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Neal Corman, executive chef of Alicart Restaurant Group, with freelancer Chris Peterson as the focusing food writer. Virgil's has been doing BBQ since 1994 in New York City, with ideas from US BBQ country of Texas, North Carolina, Kansas City and Memphis.  Here there are preps for beef (Texas brisket, chicken fried steak, burnt ends), pork (baby ribs, pulled pork, slow ham), and chicken (pulled, fried, jerked). No lamb. It's arranged by course, from apps to desserts, with suggested menus (social gatherings, game day, afternoon grill fest, fish fry, Sunday brunch – 7 in all). There are also beer notes. These are recipes modified for home use from the restaurants which use 1400 pound smokers. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
 
16.WILEY'S CHAMPIONSHIP BBQ (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3631-1, $19.99 US spiral bound) is by Wiley McCrary, a former Atlanta BBQ caterer, now a BBQ pitmaster champion and owner of Wiley's Championship BBQ restaurant in Savannah, Georgia. He's a co-author here with his wife Janet and Amy Paige Condon, associate editor of Savannah magazine and food writer (she's also co-authored The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook). It is all done with the engaging subtitle "secrets that old men take to the grave". It is thorough and comprehensive, with pix of techniques. The spiral binding in a plus, for the recipes can lie flat on the counter or by the BBQ. There's the primer on smoking and BBQ, calculating, sauces (he also has a line he sells), and a section on how to use this cookbook, including getting a notebook for your own revisions. He's got a beef tri-tip, a smoked leg of lamb, pulled pork, deep-fried turkey, smoked and stuffed chicken breasts, and even a seafood casserole. Sides and accompaniments include fried pickles, black-eyed pea hummus, grilled peaches, and a bread pudding with bourbon. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents on the inside back cover.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
17.THE LUCKY SANTANGELO COOKBOOK (St.Martin's Press, 2014, 162 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-01465-8, $27.99 US hard covers) is by novelist Jackie Collins, who needs no further attribute. Here are 100 recipes inspired by the seven novels featuring Lucky Santangelo: the world of lust, intrigue, violence, and redemption. Maybe the latter involves cooking. Most of the dishes here are traditional Italian, glam desserts, and over-the-top cocktails. Just what Collins' readers need. The Italian dishes include pasta puttanesca, angel hair pasta, fettuccine with crab and cream, chicken Milanese, and the like. There are little tidbits from the novels. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Definitely a book for her fans. Quality/price rating: 83.
 
 
18.ARTISAN BREAD (Race Point Publishing, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-937994-42-6, $30 US hard covers) is by Keith Cohen. He bought the 100-year old Orwasher's, an Upper East Side New York bakery, in 2007, and returned it to its beginning roots. Just about everything is sourced locally, and Orwasher's now has a line of artisan wine and beer breads to complement some re-inspired kosher rye and challah breads. The wine bread uses wine grape starters with natural yeasts for the leavening process. Beer breads use a local stout for the dough. There are other techniques too, and this is all carefully explained with lots of instructions and engaging photography of the techniques. The 30 recipes are all scaled. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents. A glossary concludes the book. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
19.RAWLICIOUS AT HOME; more than 100 raw, vegan and gluten-free recipes to make you feel great (Appetite by Random House, 2014, 174 pages, ISBN 978-0-449-01618-3, $29.95 paper covers) is by Angus Crawford and Chelsea Clark, founders and co-owners of a Rawlicious mini-chain/franchise in Toronto and southern Ontario (six in all, and one just around the corner from me). This is an easy cookbook, inspired by their own resto dishes, for home preps. There is a full ranger here from drinks/smoothies, breakfasts, apps, soups, right through to desserts. There is even a section of 12 preps for common staples such as pizza crust, burger buns, tortillas, herb and onion flatbreads, and various "cheeses" from nuts. A primer covers the "raw life" and pantry/larder. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Typical recipes embrace a raw/vegan/gluten-free side of pad Thai, nori rolls, coffee cheesecake, and mint chocolate chip ice cream. Lots of white space and large type is a good thing here for the kitchen, but the typeface for the index is smaller than it could be. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
20.MARC FORGIONE; recipes and stories from the acclaimed chef and restaurant (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 417 pages, ISBN 978-1-11830278-1, $40 US hard covers) is by the eponymous chef in Tribeca, New York City. It is an acclaimed restaurant, and Forgione is also on Iron Chef America. Recently, he's opened three other restaurants. He's assisted here by Olga Massov, a Brooklyn-based food writer and blogger. There is also some heavy log rolling from Alfred Portale and Michelle Bernstein, and others. This is an illustrated memoir of his journey through life, from line cook to chef, with 170 recipes and more photos. There's also primer material on prepping food and his thoughts on the New American cuisine. His resto's most popular recipes are here: Chili Lobster, Chicken Under a Brick, Bacon-Crusted Hampshire Pork Chop, and Tortellini d'Avanzi. Other recipes are family faves or native American traditions. Most of the recipes were home-tested by his mother. There's a tool list and a sources list. All of the recipes are well-detailed. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. A great book for his fans and armchair cooks. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
21.GALE GAND'S LUNCH (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-54422650-0, $27.99 US hard covers) is by a Bear Award winner and co-founder of TRU in Chicago. She has made multiple appearances on Food Network shows, including hosting Sweet Dreams. She's written seven other cookbooks. Focusing writer Christie Matthews is a food writer, and coauthor of other food books, including one other book with Gale Gand. To complete the picture there is an A-list of log rollers, including Batali, Cat Cora, Moulton, and Dupree. Gand tries to re-invent lunch, steering people away from a medley of breakfast leftovers and vending machines and food courts, to some decent and relevant food. There are 150 heal;thy and homemade lunches here. Some of them are school lunches, while others are picnics or midday parties. All of it is fine, but it helps to have kids to partially prepare their own meals, and there is still the problem of socializing at work. There is a vast difference between eating at your desk, in a work lunchroom, and in a food court. Although, maybe with social media, we actually no longer have to talk to anybody over lunch – just text your way through the meal. Rustic ratatouille tart shines, as does a variety of veggie and fruit salads. Chipotle cheddar biscuits are filling, and Israeil couscous with cranberries and toasted pecans is something new. Well worth looking at, although time can be a problem. Healthwise, lunch should be the biggest meal of the day, loaded with energy and protein and carbos – to sustain you.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
22.TEA & TREATS; perfect pairings for brews and bakes (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-497-2, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Liz Franklin, a finalist in the BBC Masterchef competition, BBC food host and producer, and now cookery school owner and food writer. She's written two other cookbooks. Here she offers us ideas on tea time. She has 60 recipes matching tea and sweet treats. She defines the types of teas and then proposes a small baked good. So for white sweet tea (pai mu tan), there is cardamom shortbread; for fennel tea, there is lemon and almond financier. For teas you don't like, you can always make the treat and have them with something comparable. The major arrangement is by class: breakfast tea, calming tea, different tea, afternoon tea, and dinner party tea. It is a great gift book for a tea lover. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There is also a sources list (UK and US only). Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
23.THE SODA FOUNTAIN (Ten Speed Press, 2014, 218 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-484-9, $19.99 US hard covers) is the first book I've seen for summer. It is by Gia Giasullo and Peter Freeman, co-founders of the Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda Fountain. They've appeared on various TV shows and channels. And they have log rolling from such celebrities as Alain Ducasse and the Borough President. Their place, opened in 2010, replicates the soda fountain, and here the recipes deal with floats, sundaes, egg creams, and more. There are vintage illustrations and adverts, plus a memoirish history involving seltzer water. The range is from classics to contemporary, such as the Sundae of Broken Dreams, topped with broken pretzel bits, or the Makin' Whoopie with hot fudge and chocolate whoopie cake. You can make your own milkshakes and syrups and a variety of toppings (they also suggest others). There are even some resources pages, a bibliography, and a cocktail alcohol beverage section. Scaling is encouraged, so recipes have volumes indicated with weight equivalents. But preparations have their ingredients listed only in avoirdupois measurements; there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
24.EXTRA VIRGIN (Clarkson Potter, 2014; distributed by Random House Canada, 272 pages, ISBN  978-0-385-34605-4, $32.50 US hard covers) is by Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos. Debi is an actress (Entourage, Goodfellas) while Gabriele was raised in Tuscany. Together they are the producers and co-hosts of Cooking Channel's primetime show Extra Virgin, which is all about Tuscan food. This book developed out of the show. It is a book about everyday good rustic food from Tuscany; most of it is traditional. Log rolling comes from Mario Batali, Michael Symon, Marty Scorsese, Bourdain, Madonna, Cat Cora, and many more. Arrangement is by course: apps, pastas, risotto, soups, salads, mains, sides, pizza, panini, desserts and drinks. There are no wine notes at all. Good classic Tuscan food. There are two dough recipes: one for pizza dough, and another for Tuscan bread dough (involving a starter). The pizza dough is in avoirdupois measurements by volume like the rest of the book. But the Tuscan bread recipe is only in metric, and it is scaled. As preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, and there is no table of metric equivalents, I find this can be confusing to the avid reader. And there is no explanation anywhere. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
25.MAN MADE MEALS; the essential cookbook for guys (Workman Publishing, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 631 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-6644-3, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Steven Raichlen, author of seven grilling books (one of which is the award-winning Barbecue! Bible which I reviewed in 1998, with its 500 BBQ recipes) and host of the PBS series Barbecue University and Primal Grill. The book concentrates on guy food: heavy, substantial flavours, lots of protein and starches. Veggies are mainly chiles, beans, corn, potatoes, mushrooms, kale, cauliflower, and collard greens, although he does have a (downplayed) salad chapter. The 300 preps here stress that knowledge is power and that all men have an inner chef who loves showing off that power. Like in the wine world, Raichlen advises kicking butt (in the introduction)-- whatever sells the book which is being billed as a cookbook, textbook, and guidebook to male cooking. He also manages to pull in material from Thomas Keller, Michael Pollan, and Mark Bittman, among others. The 17 food chapters embrace courses and meals, such as breakfast, sandwiches, pizza, breads, ribs, chili, soups, and a short sweet chapter (rum and coke float, affogato, bourbon brown cow, Mexican chocolate pudding, bananas Foster). There are lots of lists and tables (male things) scattered throughout, plus an opening primer. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. I found some inconsistencies in the index, such as the matter of corn-flour-taco-tortilla. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
26.ONE-HOUR CHEESE (Workman Publishing, 2014, 260 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-7748-7, $14.95 US paper covers) is by Claudia Lucero, a developer of DIY Cheese kits and the Williams-Sonoma's home cheesemaking kit. These preps, with colour photos of each step, tell us how to make 16 fresh cheeses at home, in an hour or less, using basic ingredients and equipment. There are also some recipes for the cheeses that we have just made, such as Mexican bahn mi torta, grilled eggplant rolls, butternut and chive crostini, and curry lettuce wraps. There is a pix of the plated dish, but no pix of the prep steps for the application of the cheeses. Covered are: ricotta, mozzarella, chevre, paneer, burrata, fresco, cottage cheese, haloumi, and others, grouped around three types (creamy, chewy, and melty). Fun for all, and quite easy. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of equivalents. There is a supplies list and a bibliography. Check out urbancheesecraft.com for more. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
27.BUVETTE; the pleasure of good food (Grand Central Life & Style, 2014, 286 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-2552-2, $30 US hard covers) is by Jody Williams, chef and owner of Buvette, a top restaurant in NYC. She recently opened a second Buvette in Paris. With some log rolling headed by Alice Waters and Mario Batali, the book is a pretty good account of a restaurant's life in the world of French and Italian bistro cooking. She makes and serves the classic dishes in a book arranged by time of day (mornings, afternoons, aperitifs, evening, sweets). There is a chapter on beverages that deals with cocktails and covers some French wine regions, but otherwise there are no wine recommendations for the courses. Her chapter on larders discusses crème fraiche, vinaigrette, herbes de provence, pistou, pickles, rouille, and about a dozen more. Try oxtail marmalade, leeks in vinaigrette, salmon rillettes, pate de campagne, duck confit, or almond toffee. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
28.THE TEXAS FOOD BIBLE; from legendary dishes to new classics (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013, 2014; distr. Hachette, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-7430-8, $30 US hard covers) is by Dean Fearing, former chef at the Mansion on Turtle Creek and now at Fearing's. He's been a fave chef of mine for years; maybe it's his first name. Here he offers a history of Texas food through culinary experiences. He expands it all to the southwestern regional experience through such as Navajo fry bread, sweet potato spoonbread, enchiladas, and BBQ. It is a guide to regional grilling-smoking-braising, with additional recipes from other chefs. There is also material about local suppliers. He begins with a pantry, and moves through the courses of breakfast, brunch, apps, salads, mains, sides – with other chapters on the grill and BBQ. Good boldfacing of ingredient lists, as well as a list of sources. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Try poblano-mango-carmelized onion quesadillas with cilantro-lime-sour cream, or molasses-tabasco duck with smoked veggie dressing, or even smoked salmon tartare with roast jalapeno cream and roasted garlic. Innovative stuff. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
29.THE NOLAN RYAN BEEF & BARBECUE COOKBOOK; recipes from a Texas kitchen (Little Brown and Co., 2014; distr. Hachette, 172 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-24826-6, $25 US hard covers) is by baseball great Nolan Ryan and three others: JP Rosenthal (food and baseball writer), Cristobal Vazquez (executive chef at Texas Rangers Ballpark), and Charlie Bradbury (CEO of Nolan Ryan Beef). Texas BBQ is all about beef, so here it is: hamburgers, hot dogs, T-bones, rib-eyes, strip steaks, tenderloins, sirloin, roasts, ribs, brisket, flank steak, flat iron steak – plus some salads and sides and desserts. It is not Dean Fearing, but it is Texas and it is beef. The idea too is to pitch Texas beef, specifically Beefmaster cattle (half Brahman, quarter Hereford, quarter Shorthorn). So you can order it, at least in the USA, and try it out on the BBQ grill. He's got easy T-bone with soy and pineapple, slow-roasted prime rib with natural jus, beer-braised country ribs, and grilled balsamic flank steak. It is a good introduction to Texas beef, with many compelling recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
30.SAUSAGE MAKING (Chronicle Books, 2014, 207 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-0178-1, $35 US hard covers) is by Ryan Farr, author of Whole Beast Butchery, and owner of 4505 Meats, an artisanal meat company where he teaches butchery classes and makes sausages. Jessica Battilana is the focusing food writer. It is a basic book for home cooks, with the techniques skills and equipment needed for cooking/curing/smoking every type of sausage. The arrangement is by texture, with a section on coarse (chorizo, merguez, Italian), firm (linguica, Polish, bratwurst), soft (boudin noir, scrapple), smooth (bierwurst, bologna, wieners), and combination (duck confit and cherry terrine, headcheese). There is a major discussion of selecting meats and fats (including frog), techniques of grinding-mixing-stuffing-twisting, and cooking styles – most with photos. Typical preps of the 38 sausages here include those for goat sausage with peppers, turkey-apple-campari sausage, guinea hen and kimchee links, smoked trout and pork sausage, and the veal-sweetbread-morels en croute combo. Other recipes cover condiments and breads. There is a resources list and a picture of a side view of each sausage. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both US and metric measurements, along with ratio tables. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
31.COOLHAUS ICE CREAM BOOK; custom-built sandwiches with crazy-good combos of cookies, ice creams, gelatos, and sorbets.(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-12004-4, $25 US hard covers) is by Natasha Case (CEO) and Freya Estreller (business  manager), with Kathleen Squires as the focusing food writer. Coolhaus began as a food truck, but now it is a national brand. Their sandwiches are sold throughout the US at supermarkets and trucks. There are also tips on ice cream making and some memoir-like materials. Ice cream sandwiches are divided into fruity, boozy, cakey, cheesy, nutty, salty, savory, smoky/spicy – the Eight Dwarfs (my phrase) of the business. Other chapters explore gelato, sorbet, and vegan sandwiches. There is a nice chapter on vegan and gluten-free cookies to make your own. There are guides to flavours and to toppings, and of course, "making your own" is encouraged. Both my faves Earl Grey and Green Tea ice cream sandwiches are included. You can have fun with this book. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, August 7, 2014

The Event: OltrePo' Pavese (Lombardy) meets Canada, via the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario

The Date and Time: Thursday, July 10, 2014  4:30 PM – 8 PM
The Event: OltrePo' Pavese (Lombardy) meets Canada, via the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario
The Venue: Gardiner Museum
The Target Audience: members of the Chamber, guests, wine writers, wine agencies.
The Availability/Catalogue: not much is available, so this was a great introduction.
The Quote/Background: Stemming from a viticulture heritage of more than 2000 years, the Oltrepo' vines benefit from a combination of well-drained, clayish soil and a microclimate that create a unique terroir for the native grapes. Oltrepo' is also considered Italy's capital of Pinot Noir. The area produces more than half of Lombardy's wine production and two-thirds of its DOC-designated wines.
 
The Wines: There were 8 wineries with about three wines each.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Az. Agr. Ca di Frara Moscato 2013 6.5%
-Bruno Verdi OP Rosso Riserva Cavariola DOC 2010
-Calatroni vini Pinot Nero DOC Cruasè Rose
-Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Pinot Nero Brut DOC
-Tenuta Fornace Soc. Agr. Pinot Noir 66 MC 2008 66 months in bottle
-Tenuta Fornace Soc. Agr. Sangue di Guida Il Tardio Sparkling
-Az. Agr. SanMichele ai Pianoni Pinot Nero Pynos DOC 2006
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Az. Agr. Ca di Frara Pinot Nero 2012
-Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Buttafuoco "Vigna Pregana" DOC 2010
-Az. Agr. SanMichele ai Pianoni Rosso dei Pianori DOC 2010
-Az. Agr. SanMichele ai Pianoni Profondo di San Michele Rosso Riserva DOC 2010
-Bruno Verdi OP Rosso Riserva Cavariola DOC 2009
-Bruno Verdi OP Buttafuoco DOC 2013
-Bruno Verdi OP Metodo Classico 70PN/30Ch
-Azienda Agricola Montelio Comprino 2011
-Azienda Agricola Montelio Oltrepo' Pavese Rosso DOC 2011
-Azienda Agricola Montelio Oltrepo' Pavese Rosso Riserva 2009
-Gravanago di GoggiP. Pinot Nero Big Black 2011
-Gravanago di GoggiP. Moscato blue bottle 2013 4.5%
-Calatroni vini Pinot Nero 2012
-Calatroni vini Rosso OPDOC Perorossino 2010 7 grape blend
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tenuta Fornace Soc. Agr. Pinot Grigio 2013
-Az. Agr. Ca di Frara Pinot Grigio 2013
-Gravanago di GoggiP. Bonarda DOC 2013
-Calatroni vini Pinot Grigio DOC Unico Rose
-Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Pinot Nero V/R Blau DOC 2010
-Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Barbera Poggio Anna DOC 2011
 
The Food: cheeses, breads, biscuits, veggies, dips.
The Downside: it was lightly attended
The Upside: a good chance to explore a region I had  not tasted much of
The Contact Person: Giorgio Tinelli tinelli@italchambers.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

FRENCH FOOD COOKBOOKS STILL POPULAR!!!

THE FRENCH COOK: souffles (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 128
pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3612-0, $21.99 US hard covers) is by Greg Patent, a Bear Award winning author for 2002, a blogger, and radio host. This is the third in a new series on French cuisine, here dealing with the basics of souffles: mainly how to beat eggs and how to create the sauces. There are photos and step-by-step techniques. The basic souffles are here (hot, cold, sweet, savoury, molded, unmolded) plus more and some variations are noted. The book is set up as a primer for beginners. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginner
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: leek and pancetta souffle; fennel and salmon; chocolate; vanilla; fresh fruit; almond and praline.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
27.BUVETTE; the pleasure of good food (Grand Central Life & Style, 2014, 286 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-2552-2, $30 US hard covers) is by Jody Williams, chef and owner of Buvette, a top restaurant in NYC. She recently opened a second Buvette in Paris. With some log rolling headed by Alice Waters and Mario Batali, the book is a pretty good account of a restaurant's life in the world of French and Italian bistro cooking. She makes and serves the classic dishes in a book arranged by time of day (mornings, afternoons, aperitifs, evening, sweets). There is a chapter on beverages that deals with cocktails and covers some French wine regions, but otherwise there are no wine recommendations for the courses. Her chapter on larders discusses crème fraiche, vinaigrette, herbes de provence, pistou, pickles, rouille, and about a dozen more. Try oxtail marmalade, leeks in vinaigrette, salmon rillettes, pate de campagne, duck confit, or almond toffee. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
39.SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD. 40th Anniversary Ed. (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 1974, 1992, 2014, 455 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-24220-3, $24.99 US hard covers) is by the late Richard Olney, one of the better passionate writers of French cuisine. I remember reviewing this book in 1974 for the American Library Association, but over the years I had misplaced it. Olney began with "The French Menu Cookbook", criticized by some for being overly complicated. He was persuaded to come up with a "simple" book. This latest reissue comes with the original Foreward by James Beard (1974), the Introduction by Patricia Wells (1992), and a New Foreward by Mark Bittman (2014). There is also unabashed log rolling from Jacques Pepin and Alice Waters. He opens with some thoughts about French cooking, wine, breads, and then moves on to courses by ingredients. He also did all of the drawings in this book. As Wells says, "Olney shares with us the tactile, aromatic, visual joys of food." His reclusive ways belied his editing of all 27 volumes of the Time Life Good Cook series. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 92.
 
 
42.LA MERE BRAZIER; the mother of modern French cooking (Rizzoli, 2014; distr. Random House Canada, 272 pages, ISBN 978-0-8478-4096-0, $35 US hard covers) is by Eugenie Brazier who opened La Mere Brazier in 1921 in Lyon. She was awarded multiple Michelin stars. Her book was first published in 1977 in France (just as she died), but here it is in North America, available in English for the first time. Most of the recipes here come from her niece's husband, Roger Garnier, who was Brazier's chef for 20 years. The rest come from taped transcriptions in 1975. This is, in all senses, a Gallic memoir. There are photos, line drawings and classic menus (with page references). Paul Bocuse lends an informal foreward. Arrangement is by ingredient (eggs, fish, poultry, meat) or by course (apps, first courses, baking, desserts, butters). There is also glossary of cooking terms. This is classic French cooking, over 300 recipes, with reminiscences: beurrecks a la turque, ecrevisses a la nage, langouste au ricard, poulet saute a la provencale. Regional wine recommendations for each dish are made. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

The Event: Grand opening of Kadbanu, 771 Dundas Street West

The Date and Time: Wednesday, July 30, 2014  6PM to 9PM
The Event: grand opening of Kadbanu, 771 Dundas Street  West
The Venue: Kadbanu
The Target Audience: tastemakers, opinionmakers, and media.
The Quote/Background: Kadbanu (www.kadbanu.ca} is an Iranian restaurant opened by the Mohyeddin family who have Banu (www.banu.ca) at 777 Queen Street West, just a few blocks south of Kadbanu (which means "lady of the house"). The new restaurant will feature classic Iranian fare such as mirza ghasemi (smoked eggplant and tomato/garlic puree – my all-time fave), gormeh sabzi, tachin, and a Persian brunch, with the emphasis on "homemade"  casual family food, not high-end dining.
The Wines: There is a nominal wine list, including pinot grigio, but the emphasis is on spirits, with some cocktail punches. On offer tonight was an excellent cucumber punch with Iranian syrup, mint, and vodka. Outside on the patio, there was a delightful watermelon punch with syrup, mint and vodka. I had a serving of each, and ended up blending the two for a delightful cuke-melon cocktail, augmented with San Pellegrino sparkling water.
The Food: a pile of goodies were plattered and passed around, including dates with herbal cheese, chilled corn soup in shooyers, khoresht gheymeh (split pea and beef stew with saffron rice), a watermelon salad with sheep cheese feta, a roasted beet salad, mini-kofteh meatballs, and shakshuka (egg baked in a spicy tomato sauce). All yummy.
The Upside: I had been going to Banu off and on for quite some time so I was familiar with some of the food.
The Contact Person: ruggierh@gmail.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, August 4, 2014

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 
Casa Bianchi LEO Premium Malbec 2011 Mendoza, +375121 Vintages, $19.95: a nifty black fruit-laden wine, plummy and loaded with sweet tannins. Forest floor and savoury too, could be best with food. At the reserve level, 15% ABV. Part of its proceeds go to Leo Messi health and education projects to help disadvantaged Argentine youth. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
Strewn Terroir French Oak Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara, $24.95 winery: at 14.4% ABV, I was wowed by the ripeness of the wine, loaded with spices and caramel. Long, long finish after some tropicality. New and used French oak barrels, cork finish. For 2012, this wine was aged in two different ways – one in US oak, the other in French oak, selling for the same price of $24.95. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Riesling 2011 VQA Niagara, $16.95 winery: at 11.2% ABV, this wine beguiled me. Very much in the Mosel mode with lovely concentrated aromatics and the apricot-peach-citric triangle of tastes. Ever so slightly off-dry, enough for sipping on the patio or with a first  course. The 2012, at 11.9% ABV, is a bit drier, same price. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Fume Blanc 2012 VQA Niagara, $18.95 winery: a new wine to the portfolio, done up with barrel fermentation of sauvignon blanc (50% US and 50% Canadian oak). Rich and herby, tempered by the wood. Obviously needs time to resolve the toastiness, but will be worth the weight (I had the bottle open for a week). 13.6% ABV, twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 VQA Niagara, $29.80 winery: rich and meaty, ripe mintiness, black fruit, mocha, forest floor. 13.1% ABV, can be enjoyed now (almost 4 years after vintage), but will definitely improve. My fave red of the tasting. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Cabernet Franc Dry Late Harvest 2011 VQA Niagara, $38 winery: again, rich and meaty but this time from the late harvested grapes that were partially dehydrated on the vine (no drying on the mats here). Some dried fruit tones, raisins, figs, mocha, leather/earth, even "dusty". Needs rich or fatty foods, and more time – save a few more years. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Noble Cabernet Botrytis Affected 2011 VQA Niagara, $35 375 mL, winery: nicely sweet with a dry component on the finish, succulent, pale red just beyond rose, harvested third week into November. Cabernet Franc at 83%, Cabernet Sauvignon at 17%. With that decaying intensity, it is delicious anytime. 14.9% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay VQA, $30 +33936 June Vintages: I've tasted Le Clos Jordanne over the years (often calling it "Closer Dan", as a nod to baseball's lights out relief pitchers in the ninth inning: it has often shut down the competition). Here, at 13.5% ABV, the wine is a bit more restrained. Currently, the minerality is showing, but the core needs to soften a bit for harmony. This will come with age. On the mid-palate, the balance is shading to some aged complexity, and I can expect more of this in the future as the pattern holds for later consumption. From three estates around Jordan, each expressing the MVC of stone fruit, minerality, and acid balance – tempered by wood aging and, later of course, time. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2011 VQA, $40 +56929 July Vintages: here, with a delimited quantity of estate grapes from one vineyard, the wine is progressing with more orchard fruit tones. There is also more structure and complexity, leading to more concentration and finesse. Oaking is more mute and balanced, but will still need time to resolve. One for the cellar, certainly affordable at this price. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 VQA, $30 +33894 Vintages: the 2011 vintage in Ontario was very cool. Ontario pinot noir should then exhibit a range of Burgundian characteristics, muting any showiness typical of a warmer climate. This Village Reserve pinot, from four different vineyards about Jordan, is at 13% ABV according to the label. What had begun as complex red cherries has now evolved into some depth of red fruit in general (strawbs, rasps, cherries) with upper floral notes being integrated into the wood treatment. Forest floor is also present. Chosen by the winemaker Sebastien Jacquey as his Cuvee 2014 entry. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011 VQA, $40 +33902 Vintages: the cool 2011 vintage continued to show Burgundian characteristics in Ontario pinot noirs. From the eastern side of the vineyard. Ontario cranberries are showing well here, but there is also a dollop of black fruit (plum, black currants, blueberries). Tannins are maturing, but there is also some mushroom component as the forest floor continues to evolve. But some succulence is also here on the finish. A cellar keeper for many years.
13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2012 VQA NOTL, $19.95: uses exclusively the chardonnay clone 809 (18-year old vines, now about 20-years old, the same age as the Ontario Wine Awards by which this wine was declared a medal winner), an almost in-your-face aromatic honeysuckle beauty with some "muscat" grape quality. Unoaked, of course, and refreshing. 13% ABV, useful for social sipping or with lighter white meats. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir 2012 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $12.95, +57349 LCBO: medium-bodied, suggestive of Beaujolais (same grape variety). Easy drinking of cherry-berry flavours with occasional nuances of spices. Best for patios, parties, BBQ. Ready now, but with some tannic structure to carry through a whole meal. 13.5% ABV, cork closure. Winner of a Gold Medal at Ontario Wine Awards 2014.
Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Launch of Little Sister Indonesian Food Bar, July 23

The Date and Time: Wednesday July 23, 5PM to 9PM
The Event: Tastemaker's Event at Little Sister Indonesian Food Bar (2031 Yonge Street)
The Venue: Little Sister Indonesian Food Bar, Yonge Street
The Target Audience: opinionmakers and food/wine media
The Quote/Background: We were served two wines, S Balbo Crios Torrontes Mendoza on reception, followed by Tierra Divina Reds of Lodi California. Other white wines on the well-thought out list included Tawse Spark, Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine, Cave Spring Riesling, and Tawse Gewurztraminer. The bar list had eight cocktails, two of which were showcased tonight: Ubud Hangout (Rangpur gin, jalapeno black pepper syrup, fresh cilantro, cucumber and orange), and Little Brother (extra old rum, lime, housemade chai, angostura bitters, mint and ginger beer). Michael van den Winkel and Jennifer Gittins, co-owners (and they also own Quince across the street), described the food – The cuisines of Eastern Indonesia are similar to Polynesian and Melanesian cuisine, with elements of Chinese cuisine. Spices such as pala (nutmeg/mace), cengkeh (clove), daun pandan (Pandan leaves), kluwek (Pangium edule) and laos (galangal) are native to Indonesia. The Indonesian cuisine influenced colonial Dutch and Indo people that brought Indonesian dishes back to the Netherlands due to repatriation following the independence of Indonesia. In "The Art of Dutch Cooking" (1962) is written "There exist countless Indonesian dishes, some of which take hours to prepare; but a few easy ones have become so popular that they can be regarded as "national dishes". The author
provided recipes for nasi goreng (fried rice), pisang goreng (baked bananas), lumpia
goreng (fried spring rolls), bami (fried noodles), satay (grilled skewered meat), satay sauce(peanut sauce), and sambal oelek (chilli paste). One of the most well know Dutch-Indonesian fusion dish is the Rijsttafel ("Rice table"), which is an elaborate meal consisting of up to several dozen small dishes (hence filling "an entire table"). While popular in the Netherlands, Rijsttafel is now rare in Indonesia itself, as it
demonstrated both colonial opulence and the diversity of Indonesian cuisine. In contemporary Indonesian cuisine, it has been adapted into a western style prasmanan buffet. Quince serves a Rijsttafel about three times a year, by reservation.
The Food: we had samples of just about the entire menu, and all of them thrilled. Perhaps one of the best was the Balinese spiced chicken (satay lilit), although the pork satay babi was no slouch, nor was the chicken peanut stay ayam. These were followed by a selection of beef croquettes with Sumatra spicing (our next fave) and jakarta beef wontons, shrimp sambal, shredded chicken taco, and beef pendang taco, another fave. From the mains section, we had samples of just about everything (the fish was not offered): roasted pork belly babi panggang, braised beef semur Java, shrimp coconut curry, ayam panggang chicken, and sambal daging tamarind braised pork. A feast! Just about a scaled-down Rijsttafel – thirteen dishes in all! Hard to beat this kind of ambience with delicious cocktails, wines, and a parade of highly charged, spicy (but not hot) foods. Not to mention some of the people we managed to talk to...We were sent home with prawn crackers and peanut sauce.
The Contact Person: shannon@thecanadianoffice.com; info@quincetoronto.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 2, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 2, 2014
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By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
NOTE: It is getting more difficult to endorse wines under $20 for the simple reason that the LCBO does not release many of them (in the Vintages program) that can be deemed to be worthy of your consideration. So I will now just ADD some "under $25" suggestions from my BYOB section, along with point values.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Tanunda Creek Vineyards Loan Wines Special Reserve Semillon 2005 Unoaked Barossa, +301127, $16.95: delicious over-the-top waxy "Hunter Valley" style MVC semillon, 13.5% ABV, twist top. Even better as a mid-course BBQ wine. QPR: 92.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $25:
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1.Angels Gate Old Vines Chardonnay 2011 VQA Beamsville Bench, +116350, $23.95. QPR: 93
2.Nyarai Cellars Viognier 2012 VQA Niagara, +378414, $21.95. QPR: 90
3.Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +164228, $24.95. QPR: 90
4.Chateau Thieuley Cuvee Francis Courselle Blanc 2010 Bordeaux, +2170, $22.95. QPR: 90
5.Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 2012, +183574, $21.95. QPR: 90
6.Henry of Pelham Family Tree White 2010 VQA Niagara, +251116, $17.95: meant to accompany the highly rated Red reviewed a few issues ago. This one is quality through mostly chardonnay (including musque), with gewurztraminer (29%) and viognier (14%). Try alone as a sipper. QPR: 89.
7.Fincas Patagonicas Zolo Torrontes 2013 Mendoza, +183913, $13.95: this is a dryish version, sip or food, with the lingering aromatic floral tones. Long finish promotes this wine to first-course food. QPR: 90.
8.Ventisquero Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Casablanca Valley, +211904, $13.95: terrific MVC savvy from Chile, 12.5% ABV, affordable. QPR: 89.
9.Chateau de la Bigotiere Sevre & Maine Sur Lie Muscadet 2012, +377739, $15.95: definite accompaniment to the catch of the day, straight down the middle MVC muscadet, 12% ABV. QPR: 89.
10.Domaine de Millet Colombard/Ugni Blanc 2012 IGP Cotes de Gascogne, +380733, $14.95: a good value summer food wine, lemons and herbs (garrigue) abound, nicely light at 11.5% ABV. Twist top. QPR: 89.
11.Camp Romain Laudun Cotes du Rhone-Villages Blanc 2013, +380725, $17.95: loaded with floral notes but better with seafood with its grenache blanc, clairette, viognier, and roussanne blend. 13% ABV, cork closure. QPR: 89.
12.Darting Durkheimer Michelsberg Riesling Kabinett 2012 Pfalz, +950212, $18.95: delicious exotic fruit tones, with citric backbite that also makes it useful with a first course, in addition to just sipping as an off-dry wine. 9.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.
13.Boutari Santorini 2013 Greece, +47985, $18.95: extremely fresh and youthful Santorini, the current darling white from Greece. Good acid and green fruit balance, lemon-fresh finish. QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $25:
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1.Evans & Tate Metricup Road Cabernet/Merlot 2011 Margaret River, +376848, $22.95. QPR: 90.
2.Teusner The Riebke Shiraz 2012 Barossa, +48470, $24.95. QPR: 90.
3.Nederburg Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 WO Western Cape, +68767, $16.95: classic cabby, cork closure, 14.5% ABV. Will please everyone. QPR: 89.
4.Collefrisio Zero Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2011, +379040, $16.95: made in a modern North American appeal style with some finishing acid. Organic. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
5.Piccini Sasso Al Poggio 2008 IGT Toscana, +134809, $19.95: affordable supertuscan blend, 14% ABV, red and black fruit, some raisins, drying out nicely after six years. QPR: 89.
6.Tommasi Poggio Al Tufo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 IGT Toscana, +203927, $17.95: soft and fruity in North American style, 1 year in oak and should improve. 13% ABV. QPR: 89.
7.Arrocal 2012 Ribera del Duero, +67868, $17.95: All tempranillo, with depth, flavours, and oaking – all are here. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
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Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Angels Gate Old Vines Chardonnay 2011 VQA Beamsville Bench, +116350, $23.95 retail.
2.Nyarai Cellars Viognier 2012 VQA Niagara, +378414, $21.95.
3.Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +164228, $24.95.
4.Chateau Thieuley Cuvee Francis Courselle Blanc 2010 Bordeaux, +2170, $22.95.
5.Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 2012, +183574, $21.95.
6.Jean-Max Roger Cuvee C.M. Sancerre Blanc 2012, +196667, $27.95.
7.Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 VQA Niagara, +33894, $30.
8.St. Helena Road Winery Maier Family Meritage 2007 Sonoma County, +377135, $27.95.
9.Evans & Tate Metricup Road Cabernet/Merlot 2011 Margaret River, +376848, $22.95.
10.Teusner The Riebke Shiraz 2012 Barossa, +48470, $24.95.
11.Clos Marsalette 2010 Pessac-Leognan, +257691, $43.85.
12.Alpha Estate Red 2008 Unfiltered PGI Florina Greece, +92361, $31.95.
13.Molino del Piano Brunello di Montalcino 2008, +378422, $37.95.
14.Feudi San Pio Nero di Lupo Amarone della Valpolicella 2010, +375527, $36.95.


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Launch of Pan American Food Festival, Aug 8 through August 10

The Date and Time: Monday, July 21, 2014  2PM to 4PM
The Event: media presser for the second annual Pan American Food Festival, slotted for Friday, August 8 through Sunday August 10.
The Venue: Valdez Restaurant, King Street
The Target Audience: wine and food writers and bloggers
The Quote/Background: The Pan American Food Festival is the only festival in the world that celebrates the food and culture of the Western Hemisphere. It returns to Toronto for a second year (Aug 8 – 10) and at least a third year in 2015, when it will be in mid-July at the same time as the Pan Am Games. [I have mixed feelings about this timing since it may be overwhelmed by the Games; my own thoughts would be to have it immediately before or afterward]. Daniel Gorcia Herros (Festival Director), Mary Luz Meija (culinary director), and Francisco Alvarez (Board chair) spoke about the PanAm Festival which will be held at Daniels Spectrum, 585 Dundas East at Regent Park. This year, 41 countries will be represented, including 20 Pan American chefs demoing dishes. This year's feature chef is South Florida's Norman Van Aken, considered the founder of fusion Latin New World cuisine (he's on at 3PM Saturday Aug 9). The Host country is Peru, which is bringing up Chef Roger Arakaki from Lima. As part of the festival, there is the Totalmente Tamales Competition, Pan/orama art exhibit, a Wine a& Spirits Salon, and a Youth World Cup football-soccer event. Out on the street there will be a Pan American Market with food vendors, tourism information, and merchandise. For more details, visit Facebook (PanamericanFoodFestival) and www.panamfoodfest.com, which has the schedule.
The Wines: we had no alcohol, just water
The Food: cornmeal empanada (beef, potato, and pea mix) and hot sauce, followed by wood-toasted bread with chicken and a tangerine mayo dressing, both prepared by Chef Steve Gonzalez (who will be representing Columbia at the event).
The Contact Person: Amanda Fruci, mediadirector@panamfoodfest.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com