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Tuesday, November 11, 2014

The Five Minute Wine Book, by Tony Aspler

Tony Aspler has a new wine book: an ebook, filled with distilled wine information about what you should/could/would want to know on vinous matters. The title does not refer to wine consumption, but rather that each chapter takes about 5 minutes to read. Perfect while mulling a glass of wine.
 
It would make a great modestly priced Christmas gift, cheaper than a cheap bottle of wine (ICBs excepted).
 
Purchase order details and descriptions are at:
 
 
 
 
Smashwords


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, November 10, 2014

The Event: Taste Ontario – Experience Ontario VQA Wines, annual tasting October 2014

The Date and Time: Thursday, October 2, 2014 10:30AM to 4PM
The Event: Taste Ontario – Experience Ontario VQA Wines, annual tasting
The Venue: ROM
The Target Audience: in the AM, the media; in the afternoon, the trade; in the evening, the consumers.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, either at the LCBO or at the winery. Some items are only available to restaurants.
The Quote/Background:
The Wines: Some of us had just tasted a round of Ontario sparkling wines the Friday before. Rather than repeat, and to save my palate, I've reproduced those notes here. The first price listed is the licensee, the second price is retail. Thanks to WCO for the spreadsheet data!
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cave Spring Cellars    NV    Blanc de Blancs    VQA Niagara $29.95     213983 LCBO
-Huff Estate Cuvee Peter F. Huff Brut 2010 PEC, $39.95 (2007 is at Vintages)
-Henry of Pelham        Cuvee Catharine Brut     $29.95     217521 LCBO
-Henry of Pelham    2009    Cuvee Catharine Carte Blanche Blanc de Blanc    $44.95 315200
-Henry of Pelham        Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut    $29.95     217505 LCBO
-Tawse    2011    Spark Blend     $24.95     384966
-Chateau des Charmes n/v Brut $22.95 224766  LCBO
-ANGELS GATE WINERY    2011    HANDSOME BRUT    $24.95    395160 LCBO
-Lake Erie North Shore    Cooper's Hawk Vineyards    Cabernet Merlot Reserve    2008    750 ml    13.7%    627843185653     $16.84      $19.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Bachelder    Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay    2011    750 ml    13.9%    302083     $26.50      $29.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Bachelder    Bachelder Wismer Vineyard Chardonnay 2011    750 ml    13.9%    366120     $38.50      $44.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Bachelder    Saunders Vineyard Chardonnay    2011    750 ml    13.7%    324103     $38.50      $44.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Di Profio Wines Limited    Sauvignon Blanc    2013    750 ml    13.7%         $15.03      $17.80
-Niagara Escarpment     Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery    Wismer Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc    2013    750 ml    12.6%    809381011212     $16.83      $19.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Thirty Bench Winery    Winemaker's Red    2012    750 ml    13.8%    0 48162 01172 4     $20.27      $24.00
-Niagara Escarpment     Thirty Bench Winery    Triangle Riesling    2013    750 ml    10.9%    0-4816201128-1     $25.33      $30.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Château des Charmes    "Old Vines" Riesling, Estate Bottled    2012    750 ml    12.5%    277228     $14.14      $16.95
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Jackson-Triggs Winery    Delaine Vineyard Syrah    2011    750 ml    13.6%    80011991     $27.65      $32.95
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Jackson-Triggs Winery    Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2012    750 ml    13.5%    988055     $16.67      $19.95
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Le Clos Jordanne    Village Reserve Chardonnay    2012    750 ml    13.7%    985879     $25.16      $30.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Le Clos Jordanne    Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir    2011    750 ml    13.5%    985895     $33.60      $40.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Konzelmann Estate Winery    Chardonnay Family Reserve    2012    750 ml    14.5%    624654100222     $42.17      $50.15
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Lailey Vineyard Wines    Syrah    2012    750 ml    13%    833078000500     $22.79      $27.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery    Ravine Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay    2011    750 ml    13%     $33.54      $40.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Southbrook Vineyards    Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay    2013    750 ml    13.1%    172338     $19.21      $22.75
-Prince Edward County    Closson Chase    Kocsis Chardonnay    2011    750 ml    13%         $29.33      $34.75
-Prince Edward County    Norman Hardie    Pinot Noir Unfiltered    2011    750 ml    12.3%    837654599532     $32.93      $39.00
-Prince Edward County    Norman Hardie    County Chardonnay Unfiltered    2012    750 ml    12.5%         $32.93      $39.00
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ANGELS GATE WINERY    2011    ARCHANGEL CHARDONNAY Brut    $23.95    227009 LCBO
-ANGELS GATE WINERY    2009    PINOT NOIR ROSE Brut    $25    BEAMSVILLE BENCH
-Fielding Estate Winery    NV Brut $34.95 Winery
-Jackson-Triggs 2011 Grand Reserve Series Entourage Spark. Brut $22.95 234161 Vintages
-Featherstone Winery 2010 Joy Brut    $34.95     310334 Twenty Mile Bench Dec 6, 2014
-Flat Rock Riddled Sparking     2009    VQA $24.95 Vintages               
-Creekside Estate The Trad Reserve Brut 2011 Queenston Road Vineyard MT $28.75
-Tawse    2013    Spark Riesling    $19.95     VQA 370361
-Grange of Prince Edward     2010    Lot 2 Brut     $29.95 Prince Edward County
-Niagara Escarpment     13th Street Winery Sandstone Vineyard Chardonnay 2010    750 ml    13%         $25.12      $29.95
-Niagara Escarpment     13th Street Winery June's Vineyard Chardonnay    2012    750 ml    13.5%         $16.68      $19.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Angels Gate Winery     Mountainview Chardonnay 2008    750 ml    13%    402492008234     $14.99      $17.75
-Niagara Escarpment     Bachelder    Bachelder Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012    750 ml    13.5%    361816     $38.50      $44.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Cave Spring Cellars    Riesling The Adam Steps    2013    750 ml    10.5%         $20.90      $24.75
-Niagara Escarpment     Creekside Estate Winery    [Backyard Block] Sauvignon Blanc    2013    750 ml    12.5%    341792     $14.99      $17.75
-Niagara Escarpment     Creekside Estate Winery    Reserve Viognier    2012    750 ml    13.5%         $25.12      $29.75
-Niagara Escarpment     Fielding Estate Winery    Lot No. 17 Riesling    2013    750 ml    10%    876584001166     $23.60      $27.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Flat Rock Cellars    Nadja's Vineyard Riesling    2013    750 ml    10.5%    18860100235     $16.84      $19.95
-Niagara Escarpment     The Good Earth Winery and Vineyard    the good wine 2013 Betty's Blend 2013    750 ml    12%    2014     $14.99      $17.75
-Niagara Escarpment     Rennie Estate Winery    Christine    Chardonnay Unfiltered    2012    750 ml    14%         $29.38      $34.80
-Niagara Escarpment     Tawse Winery    Tawse Chardonnay    2012    750 ml    12.5%         $16.84      $19.95
-Niagara Escarpment     Thirty Bench Winery    Winemaker's Riesling    2013    750 ml    10.6%    0-4816201126-7     $15.83      $18.75
-Niagara Escarpment     Westcott Vineyards Westcott Estate Chardonnay    2012    750 ml    13.5%    3755000004     $21.78      $26.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Cattail Creek Estate Winery Estate Series Riesling 2013 750 ml    12%    825020013010     $14.82      $16.95
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Château des Charmes    Equuleus, Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard    2010    750 ml    14%    319525     $33.60      $40.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Inniskillin Wines    Reserve Pinot Gris    2013    750 ml    14%    981415     $16.67      $19.95
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Lailey Vineyard Wines    Sauvignon Blanc    2013    750 ml    13%    833078000173     $16.88      $20.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Peller Estates    Private Reserve Chardonnay    2012    750 ml    13.5%    48162005556     $15.83      $18.75
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery    Ravine Vineyard Riesling    2013    750 ml    8%    629114 00142 0     $25.12      $30.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Southbrook Vineyards    Southbrook Whimsy! "Richness" Chardonnay    2012    750 ml    14.3%    621605     $29.34      $34.75
-Prince Edward County    Norman Hardie    County Pinot Noir Unfiltered    2012    750 ml    11.5%    400001253106     $32.93      $39.00
-Prince Edward County    Norman Hardie    Calcaire    2013    750 ml    10.8%    837654599679     $19.42      $23.00
-Burning Kiln Winery    Cureman's Chard    2012    750 ml    13%    UPC824799039122     $18.37      $21.75
-Union Wines    Union White    2013    750 ml    12.5%    197145     $13.00      $13.95
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ANGELS GATE WINERY    2011    SAUVIGNON BLANC Brut    $23.95 BEAMSVILLE BENCH
-Coyote's Run Winery    2011    Sparkling Chardonnay    $24.95    398388 LCBO Nov 22
-Coyote's Run Winery    2009    Sparkling Pinot Noir Rose    $29.95    359125 LCBO -Jackson-Triggs    2012    Reserve Series Cuvee Clos    $14.95    217679 LCBO
-John Howard Cellars of Distinction/Megalomaniac     2012    Bubblehead    $28.95     363655  LCBO
-Diamond Estates Winery    2012    FRESH Sparkling Rose    $13.95
-Lakeview Cellars    2008     GMR Sparkling    $19.95
-Diamond Estates Winery    2013    20 Bees Buzz & Bubbles    $13.95     332577 LCBO
-Jackson-Triggs    2010    Grand Reserve Series Entourage Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc    $29.95    353078 Vintages
-Jackson-Triggs    2010    Grand Reserve Series Entourage Sparkling Merlot    $29.95
-Sue-Ann Staff     2011    Sparkling & SASSY    $27.95     344622 Vintages
-Sue-Ann Staff     2011    Sparkling & Icy    $34.95     359703 Riesling Vintages Dec 4 -Colio Girls Night Out Sparkling $14.95
-PELEE ISLAND WINERY    2012    SECCO Sparkling    $15.75 LENS    225946    LCBO
-Grange of Prince Edward 2013    Sparkling Riesling $19.95 392746 Prince Edward C Vintages
-Palatine Hills    NV    Prestige Brut    VQA $20.00
-Redstone    2011    Sparkling    $24.95 at Tawse VQA
-Huff Estate Cuvee Janine Brut Rose 2012 PEC, $29.95 Winery
-Lake Erie North Shore    Cooper's Hawk Vineyards    Talon White    2013    750 ml    13%    853698001138     $14.31      $16.95
-Lake Erie North Shore    Cooper's Hawk Vineyards    Riesling    2013    750 ml    9%    853698001114     $14.31      $16.95
-Lake Erie North Shore    Sprucewood Shores Winery    Riesling 2012    2012    750 ml    12%    326249     $11.61      $13.75
-Niagara Escarpment     Domaine Queylus    Pinot Noir Réserve    2011    750 ml    12.5%    896131000213     $34.95      $45.00
-Niagara Escarpment     Di Profio Wines Limited    Riesling    2013    750 ml    11.2%         $14.86      $17.60
-Niagara Escarpment     Flat Rock Cellars    Chardonnay    2012    750 ml    13%    881860300291     $14.31    
-Niagara Escarpment     Henry of Pelham    Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2013 750 ml    13.5%    268342     $16.67      $19.75
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Marynissen Estates    Unoaked Chardonnay    2013    750 ml    13%         $12.49      $14.80
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Marynissen Estates    Pinot Gris    2013    750 ml    13.2%         $14.18      $16.80
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Palatine Hills Estate Winery    Riesling    2012    750 ml    11%    38956001413     $10.98      $12.80
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Palatine Hills Estate Winery    Neufeld Vineyard Chardonnay    2012    750 ml    13.5%    338956004163     $19.38      $22.80
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery    Ravine Vineyard Reserve Merlot    2010    750 ml    13.7%    629114 00072 2     $37.76      $45.00
-Niagara-on-the-Lake    Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery    Ravine Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon    2012    750 ml    13.5%         $29.33      $35.00
-Prince Edward County    Rosehall Run    Chardonnay Cuvee County    2011    750 ml    13%    834328002770     $17.98      $21.30
-Prince Edward County    Rosehall Run Hungry Point Unoaked Chardonnay    2013    750 ml    12.5%    834328002701     $16.67      $19.75
-Union Wines    Union Squared    2012    750 ml    13.5%    292359     $17.00      $17.95
                           
The Food: the media were fed huge gourmet sandwiches, green salad, salade composee, Nanaimo bars, coffees, etc.
The Downside: I had to race since I had a concert to attend.
The Upside: a great snapshot of the Ontario VQA wines.
The Contact Person: magdalena@winesofontario.org
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.
 


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, November 9, 2014

The Event: Colio winetasting with Lawrence Buhler, winemaker, in celebration of the new releases in the Bricklayer's series.

The Date and Time: Wednesday, October 1, 2014  6PM to 10PM
The Event: Colio winetasting with Lawrence Buhler, winemaker, in celebration of the new releases in the Bricklayer's series.
The Venue: Local Kitchen & Wine Bar, Queen St West
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are now in distribution except for the Syrah
The Quote/Background: Over 30 years ago, three Italian bricklayers arrived at Lake Erie to create a winery. They ran into a PREDICTAMENT when their backers pulled out but they persevered and created Colio Estate Wines. They later had REWARDS for their hard work, and ultimately had winemaker Lawrence Buhler create a CACHE for the wines produced only in the finer vintages. This dinner was a celebration of the new launch of wines. Buhler spoke to the wines at each course. We did not have a separate tasting since these are mainly food wines anyway.
The Wines: accompanied by food. Lily Sparkling was the aperitif before dinner. The Predicament series is entry-level, Reward series is small batches, and Cache is only made in better years. All wines are VQA LENS except the Vidal.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Lily Sparkling Wine, $16.95. [Riesling, cuvee close]
-Bricklayer's Reward Bookends Chardonnay 2013, $17.95
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bricklayer's Predicament Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio, +371567, $13.95
-Bricklayer's Reward Six Rows Riesling 2013, $15.95  8% ABV 150 cases
-Bricklayer's Reward Block 7 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, $19.95 300 cases
-Bricklayer's Reward Old Farm Cabernet Franc 2012, $19.95  400 cases
-Bricklayer's Reward Block 3 Merlot 2012, $19.95 300 cases
-Bricklayer's Cache Syrah 2012, $24.95 [barrel sample]
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bricklayer's Predicament Cabernet-Merlot 2013,  +371575, $14.95.
-Bricklayer's Reward Big Pond Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $15.95
-Bricklayer's Predicament Late Harvest Vidal 2013, VQA Ontario
 
The Food: we began with fresh veggies (lettuces, radicchio, carrots, peppers, cucumbers) and garlic-infused olive oil – a room temperature bagna cauda. Then came a line-caught BC albacore tuna crudo with pesto and black olives and pine nuts. We tried the Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio blend and the Sauvignon Blanc (The C-PG won). Great raw tuna. Next up was the caramelle di zucca e ricotta ravioli with a sweet onion sauce and the Riesling and Chardonnay. Here, the Riesling won out as being more food friendly. Next came a cabernet franc braised lamb shoulder with cannellini beans and mint leaves. The lamb was pulled and sculpted. I liked the Merlot and the Cab Franc best, although the Cache has its tannins flattened by the lamb. The three local cheese (creamy, hard, and blue) came with the Vidal.
The Downside: there was music in the background, with varying sound levels. And because of the impending one-time closing of the subway, I had to leave shortly after nine PM.
The Upside: a nice small venue, great chance to taste wines with two dozen other people.
The Contact Person: wcheropita@sympatico.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR NOVEMBER 8, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR NOVEMBER 8, 2014
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
NOTE: It is getting more difficult to endorse wines under $20 for the simple reason that the LCBO does not release many of them into the Vintages program, ones that can be deemed to be worthy of your consideration. So I will now just ADD some "under $25" suggestions, along with point values.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Chateau Fongaban 2008 Cotes de Castillon, +165720, $17.95: ready for that nice, ripe, matured Bordeaux with the typical MVC of cedar and cassis? This is it, at six years old, 14% ABV, medium finish. QPR: 92.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
M.Chapoutier Domaine Tournon Shay's Flat Vineyard Shiraz 2012 Pyranees Victoria, +311480, $37.95.
 
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2013 VQA Niagara, +80234, $16.95: longer length, 9.5% ABV, great MVC. Vintage over vintage, this is one of the best Rieslings in Ontario at this price. QPR: 90.
2.Rene Mure Signature Gewurztraminer 2012 Alsace, +387563, $21.95. QPR: 90.
3.Jean-Marc Brocard Sainte Claire Vieilles Vignes Chablis 2013, +329995, $24.95. QPR: 90.
4.La Casa Del Rey Alta Vista Premium Chardonnay 2013 Mendoza, +166504, $16.95: value priced, balanced MVC lemons, apples, old oak wood for mute tones. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
5.Garces Silva Boya Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Leyda Valley, +389726, $14.95: 12.5% ABV, twist top, fresh and almost startling, from an upcoming sauvignon blanc region in Chile. QPR: 89.
6.Boeckel Brandluft Riesling 2012 Alsace, +392928, $17.95: tropical fruits, good balance and heft, long food length, 13% ABV. QPR: 89.
7.G. Mardon Domaine Pre Baron Sauvignon Touraine 2013, +107128, $16.95: the parade of Touraine savvies continue. This month's release is a Gold Medal winner; it certainly delivers Sauvignon Blanc to your palate, fresh, 12% ABV. QPR: 89.
8.Lafage Novellum Chardonnay 2013 IGP Pays d'Oc, +390781, $17.95: I'm not sure if this is a IGP or VDP Cotes Catalanes. I suspect the appellation changed between lot bottlings, and so did the label. Nevertheless, this is an enjoyable Oc chardonnay produced by a negociant-shipper-importer, and worthy of your attention for its density and rich character. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Emina Crianza Ribera del Duero, +993220, $24.95. QPR: 89
2.Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2011, +977629, $24.95. QPR:89
3.Rivera Il Falcone Riserva Castel del Monte 2008 Puglia, +177295, $22.95. QPR: 90.
4.Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre 2012 Barossa Valley, +468629, $21.95. QPR: 90.
5.Roger Champault Les Pierris Sancerre Rouge 2013, +392084, $23.95. QPR: 90
6.Cave Spring Dolomite Cabernet Franc 2012 VQA Niagara Escarpment, +391995, $19.95: shows red fruit but also muted savoury tones because of hot 2012.14% ABV. Value. QPR: 89.
7.Vidal-Fleury Domaine de Vieille Fontaine Cotes du Rhone Villages 2012, +393215, $17.95: a well-priced complex wine with forest floor, leather, back fruit, and long length. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 90.
8.Di Majo Norante Ramitello 2011 Biferno Rosso Molise, +973214, $17.95: another cuties with North American off-dry appeal on the mid-palate, plumminess, Cal-Ital derived flavours, even some forest floor. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
9.Orestiadi Ludovico 2008 IGT Rosso Sicilia, +388645, $19.95: a powerful smokey wine, some brett or animal tones, rough and ready but the power is there. Maybe lay down a year more? Already six years old, 14.5%. Packaged in a heavy bottle. QPR: 90.
10.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $25
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Hidden Bench Chardonnay 2012 VQA Beamsville Bench Niagara, +68817, $28.95 retail.
2.Louis Latour Caradeux Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru 2011, +390500, $44.95.
3.Dr.Heidemanns-Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese 2012, +391045, $25.95.
4.Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2009 BC VQA Okanagan Valley, +626325, $44.95/
5.Quails' Gate Pinot Noir 2012 BC VQA Okanagan Valley, +585760, $26.95.
6.Flat Rock Gravity Pinot Noir 2012 VQA Twenty Mile Bench Niagara, +1560, $29.95.
7.Ontanon Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +939736, $39.95.
8.Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2004, +986117, $96.95.
9.Domaine Michel Magnien Cote de Nuits Villages 2011, +392688, $36.95.
10.Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2009, +708826, $41.95.
11.Meerlust Pinot Noir 2012 WO Stellenbosch, +377226, $27.95.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
15.CANADIAN CHEESE; a guide. Second edition. Updated and Expanded.(Firefly Books, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-362-1, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by the well-qualified Kathy Guidi, who founded the first full curriculum cheese appreciation school in North America and is a founding member of the ACS Cheese Professional Certification Program – over 40 years experience working with cheese mongers, consulates, trade organizations, and distributors from Europe and North America. It was originally published in 2010, and here it has been revised by new, spot-on tasting notes for 225 artisan cheeses (up from 180 in the first book), a new chapter on Canadian goat cheese, some notes on 31 Euro cheeses that have influenced Canadian styles, an expansion of her notes on Canadian washed rind cheese, and some notes from 11 other Canadian cheese professionals sharing their faves. She's got the cheese making process and ingredients, wine and beer pairing ideas, a ladder of appreciation to try similar cheeses, material on buying and serving cheese, plus opinions on raw milk cheese, discerning quality, and eating rinds. Plus, of course, how to actually taste cheese like a pro. It is all arranged by style, from fresh unripened cheese to hard and blue cheese. No recipes, just pairings. Quality/price rating: 91.
 
 
16.125 BEST CHOCOLATE CHIP RECIPES (Robert Rose, 2003, 2014, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0072-9, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Julie Hasson, a cookbook author and host of the Internet cooking show "Everyday Dish". It was originally published in 2003, and is here basically reissued with a new cover and colour photos. She uses mostly semisweet dark chocolate chips, with a variety of extras such as cocoa powder, unsweetened dark chocolate (now edging 95%), even chocolate bars for emergencies. White chocolate? Forget about it. There are six layer bar cookies, chocolate chip cranberry muffins, chocolate tiramisu, and more. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
 
17.SHADOWS IN THE VINEYARDS; the true story of the plot to poison the world's greatest wine (Twelve Grand Central Publishing, 2014, 289 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-1610-0, $27 US hard covers) is by Maximillian Potter, a journalism graduate with magazine credentials, now living in Denver. In fact this book began as a magazine story he wrote for Vanity Fair. So it is an expanded version. It's got large print and large leading, so I'm really not sure if expansion was needed. Certainly he has more room to flesh out the arc. As Daniel Boulud (one of five chefs or authors used as log rollers here) says, "Potter has taken a sinister plot and woven an intriguing story around the most revered wine estate in the world...a colorful tableau filled with fascinating historical evidence on why the terroir of Burgundy is one of the most treasured sites on earth." Is it still awaiting its UNESCO Heritage status? Nevertheless, the bare bones of the article has been filled out with his research into the matter and with background material on Burgundian terroir.  Essentially: Aubert de Villaine, owner of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, received in January 2010 an anonymous note threatening the destruction of his vines unless he paid one million Euros. This would lead to a Parisian sting operation, the primary suspect's suicide, and an investigation. It is a good read, and it even has an index. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
 
18.BASIL THYME CORIANDER AND OTHER HERBS (Fitzhenry & Whiteside, 2003, 2014, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-55455-288-7, $22.95 CAN paperback) is by Jean-Paul Grappe, a chef and professor at l'Institut de tourisme at d'hotellerie du Quebec in Montreal. It was previously published in French in 2003; this is the English translation in a paperback format. It is a nifty basic book of 20 herbs, with notes on their history, use, and therapeutic value, along with recipes such as sauteed chicken supremes with lemon balm sauce, lamb shoulder stuffed with rosemary, and pike back (loin) with nettles. Photography is pretty good, especially for the composition of the grilled veal kidneys with mustard sauce and the illustrations (photo and drawing) of the herb. Most preps are for mains, with some suggested series of veggie/starch accompaniments. There is a series of photos on butchering techniques and cooking techniques, as well as a glossary of terms. The 60 or so preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
19.NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FOODS FOR HEALTH (National Geographic Society, 2013, 2014, 320 pages, ISBN 978-1-4262-1275-8, $22.95US paper covers) has contributions from Barton Seaver, who runs the sustainable food program at Harvard School of Public Health, and P.K. Newby, a Doctor of Science specializing in diet and chronic diseases. It was originally published in 2013; this is the paperback reprint. The book deals with choosing and using the very best foods "for your family and our planet.", with seasonal menus and many prep tips. It is arranged by product, beginning with veggies (artichoke to turnip), then fruit (apple to strawberry), and then proteins, whole grains, fats and oils, and concluding with beverages (including alcohol). Each of the 150 or so foods cover common topics such as "choose and use" (where to find and how to enjoy), "for your health" (why it is good for you), and "for our planet" (such as carbon footprints). No recipes per se, just some guidance. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
20.150 BEST DIPS & SALSAS (Robert Rose, 2014, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0485-7, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Judith Finlayson, Canadian food author, and Jordan Wagman, a James Beard Award nominee. The recipes in this book also appeared in 750 Best Appetizers (Robert Rose, 2011), some in a slightly different form. Perhaps the other 600 apps from that book may be reprinted in their categories of Shooters, Wraps and Rolls, Savoury Tarts, Dumplings and Crepes, cheese, crackers, and more. You can still buy the 2011 book on Amazon, for as low as $5 used. Topics in this current book include veggies, fruit salsas, pulse dips and spreads, desserts, and a chapter on chips, crostini, and flatbreads. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
21.BERRIES AND OTHER SMALL FRUIT (Fitzhenry & Whiteside, 2005, 2014, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-55455-287-0, $22.95 CAN paperback) is by Jean-Paul Grappe, a chef and professor at l'Institut de tourisme at d'hotellerie du Quebec in Montreal. It was previously published in French in 2005; this is the English translation in a paperback format. It is a nifty basic book of "petit fruit" such as apricots, blackberries, blueberries, cranberries, figs, lychees – about 20 in all - with notes on their history, use, and therapeutic value, along with recipes such as rabbit thighs and apricots, sauteed poultry gizzards vol-au-vents with apricot, spiced French toast with cherry jam and chocolate curls, and almond cakes with figs and red wine reduction. Good-lookin' photography as well. The wide range of preps cover all courses and meals. There are tables and charts, as well as a glossary of cooking terms. The 60 preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
22.THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO HOME HERBAL REMEDIES (Robert Rose, 2014, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0489-5, $24.95 CAN paper covers) is by Melanie Wenzel, a homeopathist in Germany. It was originally published in German in 2013; this is the English translation. The publisher says that these are easy recipes using medicinal herbs to treat more than 125 conditions from sunburns to sore throats. I have a muscle cramp, but while there appears to be nothing specifically about it, there are (according to the index) references to muscles and tension. Cramps are not indexed. The 68 recipes are for oils, tinctures, compresses, herbal baths and infusions, plus drinks (teas, vinegars and wines). For coughs, sneezes and sore throats (which we all seem to have most of the time), she proposes top blockbusters such as fennel honey, gargling solutions, sea salt nasal spray, inhalation mixture, various teas and poultrices. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Other topics embrace a history of herbal medicine and the modern natural pharmacy, how to find and use the best quality ingredients, Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
 
 
23.WEIGHT WATCHERS COOK IT FAST (St. Martin's Griffin, 2014, 364 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-05295-7, $19.99 US paper covers) is from the Weight Watchers Publishing Group. Many recipes in this book were previously released in the Momentum Cookbook and Pantry to Plate, both Weight Watchers meeting room cookbooks. There are lots more resources at www.weightwatchers.com. Just about every time you see the word "fast" in a recipe, it also implies "easy". Here are 250 simple dishes for every meal of the day, broken into 15-, 20-, and 30-minute recipes. There are few ingredients, and most preps are from scratch. There's a bonus chapter of main dishes that take longer, and can be used for weekend or entertaining meals. Tips abound, but the best guidance possible is to set up your kitchen for fast cooking and do a mise en place. It is all basic stuff, such as spinach-feta scramble or pancakes for breakfast, Mediterranean turkey burgers for families at dinner, slow cookers such as beef stew provencal or chicken curry, and snacks (hummus, popcorn, nachos). There is even an index by PointsPlus. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
24.150 BEST BREAKFAST SANDWICH MAKER RECIPES (Robert Rose, 2013, 2014, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0484-0, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Jennifer Williams, a food and health writer. I enjoy single-implement cooking books almost as much as I enjoy single-ingredient books. Sometimes there are too many of them in the market at the same time. Not so here – come on, hands up if you have breakfast sandwich maker. Hands held higher if you've ever seen one? You won't find one in this book since there is no picture of it here – you'll have to to to Amazon or some other online small appliance catalogue to see the varieties of this hot selling single-implement. The author discovered it one day as a compact appliance that promised to cook breakfast in just 5 minutes. She developed 35 recipes for it and her off-to-college daughter. It was published as The Ultimate Breakfast Sandwich in 2013. This is an expansion of that book. She's got the classic breakfast sandwiches and omelets, gluten-free options, beef and burgers, gourmet meals for one or two, plus a variety of global faves and kid-friendly options. While it can go pretty fast, there are two caveats: you've got to like round sandwiches (the maker is round), and you should use medium eggs to make sure there is no run off. And of course, you can use this device for more than just breakfast. Typical preps include Canadian bacon and cheddar sandwich, artichoke frittata with roasted pepper and ricotta, avocado and garlic aioli sandwich, pepperoni and black olive pizza, and marmalade sandwich with white chocolate and coconut. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
25.TIN FISH GOURMET; gourmet seafood from cupboard to table (Arsenal Pulp Press, 1998, 2014, 161 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-546-4, $21.95 CAN paper covers) is by Barbara-JO McIntosh, a food professional who now owns Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks bookstore in Vancouver. A first edition of this book was published by Raincoast in 1998; this new edition has been redesigned with new chapters, recipes, and photos. It deals with canned seafood, a mother's helper: a quick filler for salads, casseroles, and sandwiches. But here there are recipes for taking it up a notch for tinned salmon, tuna, mussels, herring, clams, oysters, shrimp, crabmeat, sardines, anchovies, mackerel, caviar – but no octopus or squid. New preps include herring and beet lasagna, and many have added garnishes which fluff up the presentation and the taste crunch. There are 85 recipes here for the tins, arranged by type of seafood, and covering the range of apps through mains, sides, and salads. She's got an upscale pantry listing of foods which will uplift all the tinned foods. Preparations, such as crab and spaghetti sauce, anchovy-stuffed dates, or smoked mussel and chorizo paella,  have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. She's also got two menus, one for a tinned fish tea party, the other for an apero or cinq a sept "happy hour". Quality/price rating: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, November 3, 2014

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS OCTOBER

 
 
1.Strewn Terroir Merlot 2012 Strewn Vineyard VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $32 winery: at 14.6% ABV, this is a powerhouse wine. Has a Euro feel, suggesting plumminess like a Pomerol. Berries from the dark side, chocolate and coffee with some smoke needs to be resolved. Better after a few days of breathing (as I did) with a warm, softer finish, or double decanting. I had it with lamb at Thanksgiving-- terrific accompaniment. Label suggest 2017 for cellaring, but it can easily keep longer. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
2.Strewn Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $36 winery: another powerful wine at 14.5% ABV, loaded with mint, both black and red fruits, some leafy/cedar notes, a very deep and sturdy wine with suggestions of mushrooms. Label says keep to 2019, but it can last longer as the tannins will hold. My fave red of the tasting. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
3.Strewn Terroir Cabernet Franc 2012 VQA Niagara, $34 winery: savoury herbs, even some garrigue, cedar, some hints of buttercream. Cassis fruit. Rich, concentrated tones, some forest floor. Poise against fatty foods. 13.8% ABV. Could be aged five more years. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
4.Strewn Terroir Three 2012 VQA Niagara, $38 winery: suggestions of fennel and forest floor, almost like a Bordeaux in its complexity and finish. Strong tannins still need time to resolve, let it remain open for awhile, six years cellaring is recommended (on label) but it could easily take more time. Some figures – 21 months in French and US oak, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc (by barrel selection?), and 14.4% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
5.Strewn Terroir French Oak Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $28.15 winery: at 14.4% ABV (same as 2011). I was again wowed by the ripeness of the wine, loaded with spices and caramel, some orchard fruit, toasty with pineapple overtones, although a bit diminished over 2011. Long, long finish just got better over the days (tasted on Sat through Thursday). New and used French oak barrels, cork finish, bread-dough notes. Rich in an Euro style. Quality/Price rating for the French Oak is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
6.Strewn Terroir American Oak Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $25.15 winery: priced just under the French oak sibling, this one is a Gold Medalist from a wine competition in Canada. 14.2% ABV. Baked tones and vanillins dominate from mostly new US oak. Creamy aromas continue on mid-palate taste, right to the fruity but crisp finish. A bit restrained despite some ripe coconut, maybe not as concentrated as its French Oak sibling. But it tasted better as an opened but capped bottle a few days later and a few degrees higher temperature. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
7.Strewn Terroir Riesling 2013 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $19.15 winery: some Ontario "perfume" notes as found in local Rieslings, some sour lemons and green apples, best with food complexity rather than as a sipper. Good finish, very slightly off-dry in texture. Overall, good MVC lime tones. Twist top. Single vineyard, two yeast strains used. 12.4% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
8.Strewn Terroir Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Strewn Vineyard VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $20.15 winery: herby consistency, with lemons, peppers, melons, some peach undertones. Cold fermentation, good weedy length.  Twist top, 12.9% ABV. I gave the 2012 "three stars" or 85-88 points. Quality/Price rating here is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
9.Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 California, $14.95 +68924: basic chunky and dense California cab; brooding  young wine, a bit jammy and spicy at this point yet showing some dried cassis and other dark fruit plus pepper. This is a winemaker's wine that should appeal to most. Twist top, 14.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
10.Gnarly Head Pinot Noir 2012 California, $14.80, +358911: very much a California pinot full of creamy spiciness, lush and plush on the palate, mocha tones, black fruit. Sort of in your face Cali style. Best as a social wine rather than with food. Twist top. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
11.Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel 2012 Lodi, $17.95, +678698: the label that made the brand. There's a note about 35 – 80 year old vines with "head" trained pruning leading to a "gnarly looking" old vine. Lots of jammy and dense power here, black fruit, dark and rich tones, lots of toasty oak complexity. Best with BBQ or heavy meats and game. There is no mistaking this for Cali Zin, a perfect match for grilled meats. Twist top, 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
12.CARPANO BIANCO, $22.95 litre, from Majestic Wine Cellars – a nifty vermouth to savour or to use in blends with cocktails. It has more vanilla tones and sweetness than expected. Not for dry martinis, but great on the rocks, on its own for a comfort drink.  14.9% ABV. It may be coming to the LCBO, so watch for it. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
13.POLI VACA MORA AMARO, $35.95 for 700 ml, +662726 Vintages Nov 8/14: a grappa-based bitter from the Veneto that is on the dryish side of balanced. You don't find these too often in Ontario (I've had people tell me that even Campari is too sweet): this is a digestif, like Fernet, that is perfect for settling a tummy with its off-menthol tones coupled with fall spicings of cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg. At the risk of mixing my languages, it is a true "trou Normand". 32.9% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, November 2, 2014

An evening with Vina Santa Rita (Chile) Oct 30/14, at Woods

The Date and Time: Thursday, October 30, 2014  7PM to 10PM
The Event: and evening with Vina Santa Rita, from Chile, with guest Andres Ilabaca, Head Winemaker of Vina Santa Rita, repped by Mark Anthony.
The Venue: Woods Restaurant, Colborne Lane
The Target Audience: wine lovers and media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available at the LCBO
The Quote/Background: Winemaker Ilabaca was around for the Chile wine fair on Tuesday, doing business with the LCBO and contacting licensees, etc. He was also at a seminar in New York City. Rather than make a presentation, he spoke directly about each wine at the table while we tasted and commented amongst ourselves.
The Wines and Food:
 
We began with Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc 2014 DO Central Valley (+23606, $9.95, 87 points), affordable, fresh and bracing youthful crisp savvy that braced nivcely against the fattiness of the charcuterie (plus some duck ham, housemade mustards and pickles, crostini). The we moved on to the Santa Rita Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2013 DO Casablanca Valley, +275677, $13.95, 89 points)which had more a savvy feel to it, but a medium finish, more body, and it was able to take the Digby scallop with a brown butter cauliflower puree and bacon. The Santa Rita Reserva Chardonnay 2012 DO Casablanca Valley, +348359, $13.95, 89 points) worked with the Pacific cod primarily because it was balanced with low levels of oak that paired nicely to the wild mushrooms and Dungeness crab salad under the cod. It had a cork closure. All of the whites are in process of moving through the stores, so vintage dates will be changing as fresh stock comes in (e.g., the savvy reserva will soon be 2014, the chardonnay will be 2013 and may have a twist top). The heavy guns came with the heavy foods. We had a Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Camenere 2011 DO Colchagua, +392720, $17.95, 89 points) with venison and a sunchoke puree with more wild mushrooms (I tried the chardonnay against this, and it worked!). The Carmenere expressed herbs on the nose, but ultimately it was very milky and chocolatey. We ended with a Santa Rita Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 DO Maipo, about $71, rated 93) with a bison short rib and potato puree with root veggies. It was a delicious wine that might have overpowered the bison which was not as pungent as the venison. The wine came from 40 year old vines. The 2010 vintage is at classics for a bargain $60 (+337246, rated 92). It was late, and so I skipped dessert (apple tart) which had no sweet wine to companion it. Chef Carlos came out to take his bows. And winemaker Ilabaca told me that Santa Rita was developing a late harvest wine which we could have sampled, and a sparkler.
 
The Contact Person: dshing@markanthony.com; ailabaca@santarita.cl
 
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, October 30, 2014

The Event: Wines of Chile, Toronto trade show

The Date and Time: Tuesday, October 28, 2014   11:30 AM to 5PM
The Event: Wines of Chile, Toronto trade show
The Venue: ROM
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue was nicely laid out, with specific tables for cool climate wines, top wines for licensees, the 11th Annual Wines of Chile Awards winners (from January 2014), and a table for Vintages Licensee program.
The Quote/Background: There was a "cool climate" seminar with Chris Waters and Hector Vergara, MS and President of the Sommelier Association in Chile, plus winery reps. My interpretations are folded into the listings below.
The Wines: I did not – could not – taste every wine.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Calcu Winemaker's Selection Colchagua Valley, $45  Don Ackerman
-Carmen Gold Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Maipo, $65  Charton Hobbs
-Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Maipo, $69.95 +315176
-Errazuriz Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Aconcagua Costa 2011, $23.95 +203364
-Maquis Lien Colchagua Valley 2009, $27.95  Vintages Feb 19/15
-Maquis Viola Colchagua 2010, $52  Don Ackerman
-San Estaban In Situ Laguna del Inca Aconcagua Costa 2011, $28.95  +163865
-San Estaban In Situ Gran Reserva Carmenere Aconcagua Costa 2012, $18.95 +93542
-San Estaban In Situ QV (new oak) Aconcagua Costa 2012, $39.90 MCO
-Santa Rita Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2010, $70.95   Mark Anthony
-Siegel Unique Selection 2011 Colchagua, $38.95  J. Cipelli
-Echeverria Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Central Valley, $25.95 +389221
-San Pedro 1865 Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2011, $19.95
-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2012, $21.95 +337238
-Cono Sur Ocio Pinot Noir 2012 Casablanca, $69.95 +83378
-Ventisquero Kalfu Sumpai Pinot Noir 2013 Leyda, $24.99
-Ventisquero Kalfu Sumpai Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Atacama, $24.99
-Emiliana Signos de Origen White Blend 2013 Casablanca, $19.95
-Cono Sur Sparkling Pinot Noir Rose NV Bio Bio, $13.95 +365205
 
 
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Montes Purple Angel Colchagua 2011, +62364  $62.95
-Concha y Toro Terrunyo Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2010, $34.95 +562918
-Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Maipo, $16  +212993
-Antiguas Reservas Syrah 2012 Maipo, $16.95 Wine World Importers
-Emiliana Coyam 2011 Colchagua, $29.95
-Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay Aconcagua 2012, $22.95 +738393
-Errazuriz Single Vineyard Syrah Aconcagua 2012, $24.95 +387910
-Errazuriz Don Maximiano Aconcagua 2011, $79.95 +501247
-Leyda Singler Vineyard Garuma Sauvignon Leyda 2014, $19.95   Dionysus
-Maquis Franco 2010 Colchagua, $85   Don Ackerman
-Montgras Intriga Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Maipo, $24.95 +57901
-Montgras Ninquen Colchagua 2011, $29.95 +59329
-Morande Gran Reserva Carmenere Maipo 2010, $20.95 +371112
-Morande Edicion Limitada Sangiovese Maule 2012, $30      Majestic
-San Estaban In Situ Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Aconcagua Costa 2012, $13.95 +37952
-San Estaban In Situ Signature Chardonnay 60/Viognier 40 Aconcagua Costa 2012, $14.95 +311746
-San Estaban In Situ Signature Carmenere 55/Malbec 45 Aconcagua Costa 2012, $14.95 MCO
-Santa Alicia Sparkling Tierra Sur Bio Bio NV, $14.95   Eurovintage
-Santa Alicia Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2013 Maipo, $16.95 Eurovintage
-Santa Alicia Millantu Maipo 2012, $24.95  Eurovintage
-Tarapaca Gran Reserva Etiqueta Negra Maipo 2011, $29.95 +348045
-Maycas de Limari Quebrada Seca Chardonnay 2011 Limari, +331520 $30
-Concha y Toro Terrunyo Carmenere Rapel 2010, $34.95 +562892
-Tarapaca Gran Reserva Carmenere Maipo 2012, $17.95 +57513
-Morande Edicion Limitada Syrah/Cabernet Central Valley 201o, $30      Majestic
-Morande Brut Nature NV Casablanca, $40      Majestic
-San Pedro 1865 Carmenere Cachapol Valley 2011
-Carmen Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Alto Maipo, $16.95 +78980
-Ventisquero Grey Carmenere Maipo 2011, $19.95 +325415
-Morande Gran Reserva Pinot Noir 2012 Casablanca, $20  Majestic
-San Pedro 1865 Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Leyda, $19.95
-Montgras Amaral Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Leyda, $13.95 +367292
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cousino Macul Finis Terrae Maipo 2010, $44.95  Wine World
-Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Chardonnay 2013, $15.95  Wine World
-Perez Cruz Pircas de Liguai Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Maipo Andes, $37.95  Charton Hobbs
-Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Aconcagua Costa 2012, $18.95 +335174
-Perez Cruz Cabernet Franc Limited Edition Maipo Andes 2012, $19.95  Charton Hobbs
-Requingua Potro de Piedra Family Reserve Curico 2011 United Stars Corp
-Via Chilcas Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Colchagua Costa 2012, $14.95 John Gibson Agency
-Santa Rita Medalla Real Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Leyda, $17.95  Mark Anthony
-Via Chilcas Single Vineyard Pinot Noir Casablanca 2013, $18.95 John Gibson Agency
-Via Chilcas Single Vineyard Chardonnay Itata 2013, $18.95 John Gibson Agency
-Santa Rita Floresta Cabernet Franc Pumanque 2012, $24.99  Mark Anthony
-Calcu Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Colchagua, $13.95  Don Ackerman
 
 
The Food: Daniel et Daniel provided charcuterie and cheese platters, as well as terrines, pates and raw veggies. Passarounds included empanada turnovers.
The Downside: It was a long day with many wines, and some of the reps turned up late.
The Upside: a chance to taste award winning wines and some cool climate wines as well.
The Contact Person: lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

The Event: MontGras Chilean wine presentation, tasting and dinner

The Date and Time: Wednesday, October 8, 2014   6:30 PM to 9 PM
The Event: MontGras Chilean wine presentation, tasting and dinner
The Venue: Wildfire Steakhouse & Wine Bar, Cosmopolitan Hotel
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted the three wines that are available right now in the Ontario marketplace. More might be coming. The agency is The Kirkwood Group.
The Quote/Background: Jaime de la Cerda, Amaral winemaker, talked about the MontGras company (Hernan Gras once worked in Ontario as winemaker for Brights) which was founded in 1993 by the Gras brothers. He then presented the Amaral (Leyda) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 which is at the LCBO, and the 2014 which is coming soon. He also showed us two component wines, one from Lot 34 2014 (limestone), and one from Lot 7 2014 – these were part of the overall 2014 blend. He gave us some tasting overviews on the Syrah and Carmenere wines.
The Wines:
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-MontGras Amaral Sauvignon Blanc Leyda 2013 – persistent flavours from vines planted in 2006, +367292 LCBO, $13.85.
-Amaral Lot 34 Limestone
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-MontGras Amaral Sauvignon Blanc Leyda 2014
-Amaral Lot 7
-MontGras ANTU Syrah 2012, +675371 Vintages, $17.95
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-MontGras Reserva Carmenere 2013, +178624, $11.90
 
The Food: Wildfire has been established at the Cosmopolitan Hotel for a few months (the mother restaurant is near Hoggs' Hollow on North Yonge). Our menu began with the showoff food for the Amaral Sauvignon Blanc – a seafood ceviche of fish, shrimp, red onion and cilantro. It was dense and complex, much like the wine that accompanied it.
This was followed by a choice, so I took the Australian lamb rack since I wanted to compare it to the ANTU Syrah and the Carmenere Reserva. Both were good choices, but the Syrah was better.
The Downside: initially, it was a little noisy from the boisterous crowd downstairs, but then they left for the hockey game.
The Upside: a chance to talk to the winemaker.
The Contact Person: rochelle@mgbmc.com; rsandham@thekirkwoodgroup.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, October 27, 2014

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
21.TAPAS AND OTHER SPANISH PLATES TO SHARE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2010, 2014, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-570-2, $19.95 US hard covers) is a publisher's collection of assorted recipes – 60 preps for sharing, all with a Spanish theme. Recipes come from six writers, including Juliz Beresford (who has the most) and Linda Tubby (second-most). It was originally published in 2010 and slightly revised for 2014. It is a full range of meat, poultry, seafood and fish, veggies, cheese and eggs. Typical are chicken with garlic, Catalan chickpea salad, chorizo in red wine, pork and veal turnovers, ham and chicken croquettes, migas, and others, ending with tortilla campestre. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois and some metric measurements, but there is no table equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
22.EASY EVERYDAY SLOW COOKER RECIPES (Robert Rose, 2010, 2014, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0483-3, $27.95 CAN soft covers) is by Donna-Marie Pye, whose slow cooker books now have over a half million copies in print. The 200 preps here come from Slow Cooker Winners, a collection of 300 or so recipes, published in 2010. All courses are covered, from soups, stews, chilis, poultry, meats, big dinners, meals for two, and desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
23.FAMILY TABLE; recipes and strategies (Fitzhenry & Whiteside, 2008, 2014, 189 pages, ISBN 978-1-55455-037-1, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Marie Breton and Isabelle Emond, dieticians and mothers who have written other family cookbooks. This one was published first in French in 2006, then translated into English for publication in 2008, and it is now reissued as a soft covered book. It's a book about organizing a kitchen, menus and shopping lists in order to nutritionally feed a family. There are also some suggestions here for helping kids become good eaters and how to connect at dinner time. There are about 100 healthy, simple, fast and appetizing preps with nutritional values listed separately by dish and plenty of variations. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
24.JOHN SCHREINER'S OKANAGAN WINE TOUR GUIDE. Revised and updated fifth edition (Whitecap, 2014, 430 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-230-7, $19.95 Canadian paper covers) is by the renowned B.C. writer who has written many books about B.C. and Canadian wines, as well as snapping up major writing awards in this area. He's been busy in the past few
years, crafting works on Canadian wines (in general) and on BC wines. The publisher claims that Schreiner has added 60% new material to this fifth edition, yet the price has remained the same – and 60 more pages were added. This tour guide includes the Similkameen Valley as well, which is the most southerly wine region in BC but only 5% the size of the Okanagan. He describes the sub-regions, and this is followed by an
alphabetical order to the 196 (up from 178 in the last edition) wineries themselves including others not yet producing. For each, there is a description and commentary, followed by some specific but brief notes on a few of the wines. A black and white picture of the owner and/or winemaker appears, as well as the date opened, address, phone numbers, website, and times of day open. Maps appear on the back flaps. Schreiner concludes with a vineyard census, general production figures, and VQA sales. The most popular grape in BC is still Merlot, followed by Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gewurztraminer. The black and white photos are still on the dark side. Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
25.PEPPER; a history of the world's most influential spice (St. Martin's Press, 2013, 302 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-04866-0, $16.99 US soft overs) is by Marjorie Shaffer, a business and science writer currently at New York University School of Medicine. This is the paperback reprint of the 2013 hardbound edition. She's crafted details about what is arguably the most important of the taste spices: black pepper. It's not a thorough history of European pepper trading in Asia, but it does examine why – and how – our forebears wanted a single product. As such, it is also the business history of the trading routes and regions. And there are also some pages on the US pepper fortunes. The colour section is loaded with visuals of plants, plantations, older woodcuts, and early drawings. She's got maps of the Indian Ocean, India, Malaysia and Indonesia so that readers can track the trade routes. There are copious end notes, a well-researched bibliography, and a workable index. Quality/Price Rating: 90.
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Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, October 26, 2014

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
11.THE SOUP SISTERS AND BROTH BROTHERS COOKBOOK (Appetite by Random House, 2014, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-449-01642-8, $24.95 CAN paper covers) has been edited by Sharon Hapton, founder of Soup Sisters, a non-profit (with branches) that organizes multiple volunteer soup-making events across Canada – serving over 10,000 every month. This particular book of some 100 soups follows the seasons, and comes from both the volunteers and celebrity Canadian chefs such as Rob Feenie, Susur Lee, Michael Smith, Anna Olson and some international chefs. Included are vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. The Soup Sisters Cookbook was originally published in 2012; this second volume contributes different recipes. Preps have been sourced (eg. Mark McEwan's corn bisque, Daniel Hayes' gazpacho Andaluz) and most make 4 to 6 servings. There are savory rutabaga and red lentil soup, Mexican lime soup with chicken and feta, Parisian cream of green bean with white wine and herbs, and avgolemono soup. Sales from the book goes to support the programs. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Do visit www.soupsisters.org. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
12.THE GEFILTEFEST COOKBOOK (Grub Street, 2014, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-909166-25-7, $40 CAN hardback) is from Gefiltefest, a British Jewish food charity which explores the relationship between Judaism and food through education in heritage, ethics, culture and traditions. Over a three year period, 65 global chefs (including Deborah Madison, Fred Plotkin, Claudia Roden, Paula Wolfert, Yotam Ottolenghi) donated recipes to this project. The book is in regular format, beginning with starters, soups, salads, progressing to mains and desserts. There is also a history of Jewish cookbooks, contributed by Maureen Kendler. Preps are sourced (Madison's elixir of fresh peas, Tina Wasserman's Moroccan orange and olive salad, Florence Fabricant's leeks and fennel in anise vinaigrette) and each is labeled parve or dairy, etc., with variations. Each contributor is given a short bio. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
 
13.BROWN SUGAR KITCHEN (Chronicle Books, 2014, 225 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-2234-2, $29.95 US  hard covers) is by Tanya Holland, executive chef and owner of Brown Sugar Kitchen and B-Side BBQ in West Oakland, California. Jan Newberry is the focusing food writer. Log rollers include Alice Waters, Sara Moulton, and Bruce Aidells. This is a soul food place, and the book has 80 preps to reflect that, such as shrimp & chicken gumbo, summer squash succotash, North African spiced beef short ribs, blackened catfish, bourbon and chili-glazed salmon, or jerk baby black ribs. Arrangement is by course, from breakfast through snacks, salads, lunch, soups, sandwiches, big bowls, and sweets. There are a dozen beverages, not all alcoholic. And of course there is some memoir material about the restaurant. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and (mainly) avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
14.TACOLICIOUS (Ten Speed Press, 2014, 212 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-562-4, $22 US hard covers) is by Sara Deseran, co-owner of Tacolicious in San Francisco (4 locations in the area). It comes with log rolling from Mark Miller and three other chefs. She's had assistance from her husband (the other co-owner, her exec chef, and the beverage manager. It is a handsome book, with excellent photography and design, beginning with salsas, moving through snacks, sides, tacos, and then beverages (mainly cocktails) for 40 pages. There is a glossary, list of mail order sources, and even a listing of some her fave Latin restos in California and Mexico. She's got pork albondigas in chipotle sauce, carnitas taco, chile verde taco, potato and chorizo taco, and a Lone Star breakfast taco. There's also spicy pork ribs with jicama salad, halibut crudo with citrus and capers, and tuna tostadas. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com