The Event: Alvear Family wine tasting – Bodegas Alvear DO Montilla Moriles and Bodegas Palacio Quemado DO Ribera de Guadiana with Maria Alvear.

The Date and Time: Monday April 4, 2016, 2 – 4 PM

The Event: Alvear Family wine tasting – Bodegas Alvear DO Montilla Moriles and

Bodegas Palacio Quemado DO Ribera de Guadiana with Maria Alvear.

The Venue: Mideastro Yorkville

The Target Audience: wine writers

The Availability/Catalogue: there are a few items at the LCBO, but the rest would be private orders from Kirkwood Diamond.

The Quote/Background: The Alvear family established their original bodega in Montilla Moriles, near Cordoba in 1729, now guided by the 8th generation. The Alvear wines from Montilla share similarities with Sherry some 211 kilometres to the south-west — but the two regions are distinct. In the Sherry region the Palomino Fino is used, and in Montilla the Pedro Ximenez is grown to create the same styles of bone dry or semi dry. And the Pedro Ximenez in Montilla, as in Sherry, is used to create unctuous and world renowned ultra-sweet wines. Palacio Quemado wines are New World in style with a focus upon the personality of the grape types Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, with experimentation involving other local varieties. For the most part, oak aging takes place in 500 litre Fr barriques and less so in US barrels.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alvear Fino en Rama 2008 DO Montilla Moriles. $19.95 500mL bottle, cases of 6: unfiltered, unfortified Fino from Pedro Ximenez grapes aged under flor for three years. -Palacio Quemado Reserva 2011 DO Ribera de Guadiana, $21.95, cases of 6: all Tempranillo from oldest vineyards, aged 70% in Fr oak and 30% in US oak for 16 months. -Palacio Quemado, Los Acilates 2013 DO Ribera de Guadiana, $25.95, cases of 6: single plot field blend with different varieties depending on the vintage, aged a year.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alvear Fino DO Montilla Moriles, +112771, $12.45.

-Alvear Medium Dry Amontillado DO Montilla Moriles, +112789, $12.45.

-Alvear Solera 1927 Pedro Ximenez DO Montila Moriles 375 mL, +383422, $15.55 (moving to Vintages)

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Palacio Quemado, La Zarcita 2014 DO Ribera de Guadiana, $16.95, cases of 6: Tempranillo, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 8 months in Fr oak.

 

The Food: bread and water

The Upside: we had a chance to sample the wonderful Brandy Alvear Presidente Gran Reserva Brandy (nutty, pungent) $59.95 bottle, cases of 6.

The Contact Person: Barry Brown  <info@spanvino.com>; Rsandham@kirkwooddiamond.com; maria.alvear@alvear.es

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW

3.HOMEGROWN; celebrating the Canadian foods we grow, raise and produce with 160 recipes (Whitecap, 2015, 407 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-232-1, $39.95 paper covers) is by Mairlyn Smith, madcap TV personality and author of six award-winning cookbooks. She is also a Professional Home Economist (PHEc). Her book contains recipes from a variety of her  sources, such as the Ontario Home Economics Association, some of her students, and her own files, and 17 others which had been previously published. All preps have been acknowledged. She begins with breads and quick-breads, moving on to eggs, cheese, grains, soup, veggies, salads, legumes, pork and lamb, fish and seafood, poultry, beef, and fruit for desserts. So it is a good but basic cookbook in salute of foods grown in Canada (except for a few condiments such as black pepper or capers): lentil soup from Saskatchewan, BC blueberry pie, Nova Scotia scallops, Albertan barley flour pancakes with Quebec maple syrup. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Recipes are sourced as to who was responsible for the prep along with accompanying stories and tales.

Audience and level of use: patriotic and local cooks

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pumpkin oatmeal muffins; gluten-free toasted walnut pear muffins; apple sage cheddar bread; maple pulled pork; Canadian cassoulet; chickpea and cauliflower curry; Asian-style eggplant.

The downside to this book: Shepherd's Pie is made with lamb. If it is made with beef, it is called Cottage Pie and not "Shepherd's Pie with Beef".

The upside to this book: a good swing through the food countryside from the east coast to the west coast.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

4.SIR JOHN'S TABLE; the culinary life and times of Canada's first prime minister (Goose Lane Editions, 2015, 228 pages, ISBN 978-0-896492881-8 $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Lindy Mechefeske, a Kingston ON free lance writer and food columnist, author of the cookbook "A Taste of Wintergreen". She's been fascinated by local legend Sir John A. Macdonald and tells his story through his culinary life from the rations on his passage to Upper Canada through his boyhood of stealing fish, to the political high teas, campaign picnics, and dinner parties. It's a journey from eating hardtack biscuits to drinking Champagne biscuit flavours. As she says, "These are the food stories of Sir John...a character who loved his family, surrounded himself with lots of company, and adored a party. This is not a cookbook but a tale of our gastronomic past, found in old recipes books, tales of pioneer life in Canada...and the context of nineteenth-century society in Upper Canada." Each chapter has "receipts" of the era, chosen against three criteria: authentic, feasible and edible. All preps are in the original form, lacking directions in many cases. But updates can easily be found through Internet searches and something comparable prepared at home. Recipes are indexed in the general index by ingredient or theme, but there is also a separate recipe title index (which does not appear in the general index).  Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements. There are also a timeline for Sir John's life, end notes, and bibliography. A very readable book.

Audience and level of use: Canadian culinary historians.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: toad in the hole; wedding cake; fried oysters; artificial asses milk; classic Montreal tourtiere; gooseberry pie; parsnip soup.

The downside to this book: the food entries in the general index are just run ons, with page numbers only. So there are 17 refs to Champagne, and 14 to vegetables with no clarifications. And "champagne" as used in the book is not capitalized.

The upside to this book: lots of historical photos.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

5.WE LOVE KALE (Taunton Press, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-63186-362-2, $16.95 US soft covers)

 

and

 

6.WE LOVE QUINOA (Taunton Press, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-63186-361-5, $16.95 US soft covers) are being co-published with Quantum Books from the UK. Taunton Press, of course, also publishes Fine Cooking magazine. These books have been written by five bloggers and recipe developers. KALE is led by Kristen Beddard; QUINOA is led by Karen S. Burns-Booth. Both are set-up the same way, with different preps of course: 50 recipes plus 50 variations. There is introductory material about kale or quinoa, followed by meal divisions: breakfast, brunch, snacks, appetizers, drinks, mains, soups, salads, sides, desserts. The recipes are not meatless, but many have been coded for being gluten-free or dairy-free, wheat-free, vegan, vegetarian. Each book has 10 ways to pump more kale or quinoa into your body; each recipe has prep and cook times, tips, and instructions. And yes, I did check the indexes: there are no kale preps in the quinoa book and no quinoa preps in the kale book. Still, one of my fave dishes is eggs/kale/quinoa at breakfast. That should have been mentioned somewhere in the two books!! Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: those looking for healthy food, millennials.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: risotto-style quinoa with caramelized onions and mushrooms; vegetable paella-style quinoa; quinoa pizza with blue cheese and eggplant; kale summer roll variations; kale and chorizo tortilla bites; kale and sweet potato dosas with coconut chutney. 

The downside to this book: just the bit about combining kale and quinoa with a few recipes..

The upside to this book: good preps, nice and tasty, and the variations just seem to keep coming.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

7.THE PLANTIFUL TABLE (The Experiment, 2015, 311 pages, ISBN 978-1-61519-247-2, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Andrea Duclos, a top rated family blogger at ohdeardrea. It is a book about simple and natural living, with over 125 dishes for children and adults. Its subtitle is easy, from-the-earth recipes for the whole family. It is a vegan cookbook, although her family is mostly veganish. The title indicates that only plants are used. There's a glossary that can serve as a shopping list, and a bibliography. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. International themes are stressed, injecting more flavours into the dishes.

Audience and level of use: vegans, vegetarians, those with families.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: aloo gobi; pad thai; ramen; arepas with corn and avocado; bahn mi chay; burger bean and quinoa salad; heart of palm patties.

The downside to this book: there is still a tendency to make a vegan dish out of a classic comfort food (e.g., mac and cheese, cottage pie)

The upside to this book: kid-friendly tips to that one meal can feed everyone.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

 

8.THE VEGETABLE BIBLE; the complete guide to growing, preserving, storing and cooking your favorite vegetables (Thunder Bay Press, 2015, 320 pages, ISBN 978-1-62686-436-8, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Tricia Swanton, a NYC writer-researcher with her own upstate New York garden.

 

AND

 

9.THE BEANS & GRAINS BIBLE; the ultimate resource from kidney beans and black beans to modern superfoods such as quinoa and farro (Thunder Bay Press, 2015, 320 pages, ISBN 978-1-62686-437-5, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Emma Borghesi, a food writer-researcher in Melbourne.

 

Both books are unusual in shape: 6 inches wide, more than 11 inches high, and 2.5 pounds in weight. It may or may not be convenient to hold them. The first 270 pages of the veggie book deals with listing the vegetables; there are almost 175 of them, arranged by category (leafy, fruits (eg olives, tomatoes), pods, bulb and stem, root and tubes, sea vegetables. The book concludes with a growing guide. In between there are a dozen pages of recipes, about four to a page, so let's say 50 preps. These are indexed, but only under their title, and not their ingredients. So the index shows "Satay Chicken" but nothing under "chicken". But then you don't go looking under chicken in a book dealing with veggies...maybe. Each veggie is covered in a page or two with photos, descriptions, history, cooking style, medicinal uses (if appropriate), and the like for directory data. The beans & grains book is similarly structured, with the divisions being cereal grains, ancient grains, pseudograins (buckwheat, amaranth, quinoa, chia, flaxseed), beans (dry and fresh). It goes to page 286, and the the recipes begin, arranged as 7-day meal plans (vegetarian and vegan, gluten-free). Again there are about 50 preps, and again they indexed under recipe title (e.g. Roast Pumpkin but not also under "pumpkin"). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: mostly vegetarians and vegans

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: carrot and lentil soup, basil pesto, bell pepper and cannellini bean wraps, pickled sunchokes.

Quality/Price Rating: 82.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Some wines sampled this month ...

1.La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2013, [2014 is now at Vintages, +962886, $29.95, but a new Vintages release of the 2013 will be in August 2016; it is now available only by consignment via Jackson Family Wines]. It is a fairly consistent wine from year to year, with bottle aging being the main difference. Cool climate (as much as California would allow) from the coast in the evening and the early morning. Expect a combo of lemons, toast and orchard fruit tones, with a smooth finish from secondary malolactic fermentation. One of my really fave Cali chards. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013, +719435, $31.95 Vintages, [also as 375mL +732040, $17.95; 2014 is expected at Vintages over the winter of 2016/17, God willing and the crick don't rise]. This is wine is cool climate (as much as California would allow) from the cool coast in the evening and the early morning. Expect a combo of cherry-berry, underbrush, balanced but low oaking, some mocha, spices. I had it with salmon; it went very well. Not a heavy pinot noir (only seven months and a bit in barrel), unlike many others from California. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

3.Chateau des Charmes Riesling "Old Vines" 2013 Estate Bottled VQA NOTL, +277228, $16.95 Vintages: Made from vines largely planted in 1978, now a mature vineyard.

12.1% ABV. Succulence like you would not believe, but off-dry Alsatian character (citric tones, spices), with now two years plus of aging. A beaut. Twist top. Price has been held steady at this level for years with no compromise for quality levels. Quality/price rating 90 points by Dean Tudor.

 

 

4.Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc 2013 VQA NOTL, +162602 LCBO, $13.95: it has been many years since I tasted the entry level Cab Franc from Chateau des Charmes (I usually have access to their St David's Bench Vineyard Franc wines, costing twice as much), and they have another winner. Made in a warmer-than-usual Fall, it has some over-the-top full-bodied black fruit (cassis, blackberries, black cherries) while still retaining some Ontario cranberries and bell peppers. Reminds me of their 2007 Cab Franc. Aged for 9 months in French oak with some toast. Price has not changed in years. Sip or with first course food. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

5.Baron de Hoen Riesling Reserve 2014 Alsace, +446427, $14.95 Vintages: a classic straight-up Alsatian Riesling in the MVC dry mode, 12% ABV, twist top, fairly priced. Orchard fruit dominates, with a nice lemony citric finish meant for fish. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

6.Chateau Haut Philippon 2014 Entre-Deux-Mers, +445171, $14.95 Vintages: yet another classic and affordable white wine from France. Here it is the classic blend of white Bordeaux – 70% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon, and 10% muscadelle – which leads to a savouriness perfectly suitable to fish or seafood. Lemony nose, some grass, citric finish tempered by aging on lees for several months. 11.5% ABV, cork finish. Gold medalist.

Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

7.Waterkloof Seriously Cool Chenin Blanc 2014 WO Stellenbosch, +443382, $16.95 Vintages: from a biodynamic producer, here emphasizing the cool climate nature of dry chenin blanc as found in the Loire. 40 year old vines, with plenty of orchard fruit bouquets, citric finish, cork closure. Best with white meats (13.5% ABV).

Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

8.Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir La Clape Syrah/Carignan/Mourvedre 2011 Coteaux du Languedoc, +370262, $18.95 Vintages: the bargains continue at the LCBO with this southern Rhone clone emphasizing aromatic red fruit and garrigue. Nice long finish for that heavy meat dish. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

9.Torres Salmos 2012 Priorat, +450734, $30.95 Vintages: a delicious red fruit concoction like Chateauneuf-du-Pape with its carinena, garnacha and syrah blend. 14.5% ABV. Expect meatiness and berries, and extremely long finish. Aged in French oak for 14 – 16 months. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for APRIL 2, 2016.

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for APRIL 2, 2016.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market, with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at www.deantudor.com

 

20 under $20  My BEST BUY  is Mas des Bressades Cuvee Tradition 2014 Costieres de Nimes, +143099, $16.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.

 

W - Baron de Hoen Riesling Reserve 2014 Alsace, +446427, $14.95, 12% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W - Chateau Haut Philippon 2014 Entre-Deux-Mers, +445171, $14.95, 11.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88

W- Waterkloof Seriously Cool Chenin Blanc 2014 WO Stellenbosch, +443382, $16.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R - Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir La Clape Syrah/Carignan/Mourvedre 2011 Coteaux du Languedoc, +370262, $18.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-  Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2012 VQA Short Hills Bench Niagara, +557165, $17.95,        MVC/QPR:  90.

R – Ca' Momi Rosso di Napa 2014 Napa Valley, +449744, $19.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R – Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel 2014 Lodi, +942599, $19.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Hogue Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Columbia Valley, +275123, $18.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R – Norton Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Mendoza, +663120, $17.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W – Aresti Trisquel Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Leyda Valley, +443341, $18.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R – Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Maipo Valley, +18721, $17.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R – Zonte's Footstep Avalon Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Fleurieu Peninsula South Australia, +353193, $17.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Stellenrust Timeless 2011 WO Stellenbosch, +443325, $19.95, 14% ABV, Bordeaux-style blend, 

MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Chateau Brehat 2008 Cotes de Bordeaux – Castillon, +348672, $18.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R – Mas des Bressades Cuvee Tradition 2014 Costieres de Nimes, +143099, $16.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.

W – Dr. Hermann From The Slate Riesling 2013 Mosel, +446617, $17.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W – Rocca di Montemassi Calasole Vermentino 2014 Maremma Toscana, +435446,  $14.95, 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Farina Solers Le Bocce 2011 IGT Toscana, +309393, $15.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R – Aroa Jauna Crianza 2011 Navarra, +353524, $14.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R – Papale Linea Oro Primitivo di Manduria 2013 Puglia, +261784, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88

 

 

20 over $20 My BEST BUY is Coto de Imaz Reserva 2010 Rioja, +23762, $22.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 92

=========

R – Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013 VQA Four Mile Creek Niagara, +79228, $24.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R - Torres Salmos 2012 Priorat, +450734, $30.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R- G. Marquis The Silver Line Epic 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +310367, $29.95, 13.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.

W – Chateau St. Jean Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 Alexander Valley Sonoma County, +990499, $39.95, 14.4% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

W – Iris Pinot Gris 2013 Oregon, +445726, $23.95, 12.6% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2013 Napa Valley, +126607, $29.95, 14.9% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Sonoma Coast, +226944, $22.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Emiliana Coyam 2012 Colchagua Valley, +63891, $29.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R – Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Shiraz 2013 Barossa, +18796, $21.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R – Xanadu DJL Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Margaret River Western Australia, +444802, $22.95, 14% ABV,   MVC/QPR: 90.

W- Stoneleigh Latitude Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +324228, $21.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W – Loimer Langenlois Gruner Veltliner 2014 Kamptal Austria, +142240, $21.95, 12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W – Henri de Villamont La Canee Auxey-Duresses 2012, +445270, $39.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R – Chateau de Lisennes Cuvee Prestige 2009 Bordeaux Superieur, +444364, $21.95, 12.5% ABV,

MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Tsantali Reserve Rapsani 2011 Thessalia Greece, +734855, $20.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Ruffino Modus 2012 IGT Toscana, +912956, $29.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R – Bodegas Langa Pi-3.1415 Concejon 2012 Aragon Catalayud, +313841, $21.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R – Coto de Imaz Reserva 2010 Rioja, +23762, $22.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 92

R – Vina Vilano Crianza 2011 Rivera del Duero, +82180, $21.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R – Rocca delle Macie Riserva Chianti Classico 2012, +930966, $22.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

19.BAKING WITH MARY BERRY (DK, 2015, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-5323-5, $19.95 US soft covers) is by the British Queen of Baking, who was one of the judges on The Great Holiday Baking Show (now available on US TV) and The Great British Bake Off. She's authored over 80 cookbooks, selling 6 million copies. This current book is tied to TGHBS launching in the US. It is a basic primer of tips, advice, and step-by-step instructions for 100 or so recipes, covering mainly the classics, and with colour photos of finished plates. She ranges through cakes, cupcakes, pies, tarts, crumbles, cobblers, brownies, special occasion desserts (rich Christmas cakes, souffles, pavlovas, roulades, mille-feuilles) and British faves such as scones, Dundee cake, and treacle tart. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

20.MOVEABLE FEAST WITH FINE COOKING; inspiring recipes from seasons 1 and 2 (Taunton Press, 2015, 238 pages, ISBN 978-1-63186-373-8, $30 US hard covers) is from the editors of Fine Cooking magazine. The preps come from the award-winning PBS "Moveable Feast" series; it is a companion book. The series, and the book, feature US chefs from across the land  sharing their recipes, tips and techniques for using regional/seasonal ingredients. There are also food gathering adventures with chefs and food purveyors. 75 preps comes from 40 different chefs, accompanied by colourful photos of feasts prepared in different locations. Thus, from LA there is the Ruby Cigar Cocktail, a lobster and chorizo queso fundido, carnitas with rice and salsa, charred baby octopus salad with pickled jalapeno plus plums and peaches, followed by a dessert of kahlua with espresso and chocolate trifle and candied peanuts. Great fun. All recipes are sourced, and each feast is a menu that can be recreated at home. At the back, there is a recipe index by course. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

 

 

 

21.SUPERFOODS 24/7 (The Experiment, 2015, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-61519-278-6, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Jessica Nadel, owner-baker of Oh My Bakeshop in Sudbury, Ontario, an organic vegan special order bakery, and Tucos Taco Lounge, a vegan taco restaurant. Previously she had written GRRENS 24/7 in 2014. Here she presents more than 100 quick and easy vegan preps for superfoods (almonds, blueberries, leafy greens such as kale) – meant for every meal of the day plus desserts and snacks. Try one of the green smoothies for brekkies. 35 superfoods are covered. She begins with nutritional profiles and prep guides for each type, followed by the recipes (golden turmeric milk, mole tofu with slaw, fresh cherry berry jam, seedy quinoa flatbread). She's got an international flavour as well, with spicing from the Mediterranean, Asia, and Latin America. There is also nutritional data for each prep. Nadel has been blogging for almost six years at http://www.cupcakesandkale.ca. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. At the beginning she has some typical day superfood meal plans (with page references) that are worth considering. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

 

22.SOUPING (DK Publishing, 2015, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-4930-6, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Alison Velazquez, owner of Soupology, a company specializing in health-based soups (she's been a vegetarian for 20 years) and special diets. Here she presents 80 preps to help you lose weight, cleanse, detoxify, and generally re-energize yourself. It comes with the lovely artwork that DK is well-known for, and after the primer, it is arranged by season – ending with broths and consomme. Each season also emphasizes a cleanse: there's a three day metabolism cleanse in the spring, as well as an energizing cleanse. In the summer, there is a weight loss five day cleanse as well as a two day hydrating cleanse. There are two more in each of fall and winter, centering on detox, immune boosts, beauty reboots, and alkalizing. Typical soups include broccoli arugula soups, carrot and fennel soup, ancient grains soup, and ginger sweet potato soup. Each recipe has quantities, time prep notes, and nutritional data. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

23.LUCKY RICE (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-8041-8668-1, $25 US hard covers) is by Danielle Chang, with a PBS series "Lucky Chow" and founder of the Lucky Rice festivals (night markets, dumpling making, feasts). She's got good company for log rollers such as Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and Susur Lee. She has a range of some 100 Asian culture recipes that include comfort foods done in a new way, new techniques, and classics. There is sweet Vietnamese coffee frozen into pops, one-hour homemade kimchi, and a variety of cocktails for the millennials. As the subtitle says, these are stories and recipes from family tables. At the end she's got 10 festive menus, unfortunately with no page references to the recipes, so you will have to dig them up through the index. Thus, for a Malaysian supper, she recommends herbal bone broth tea, okra with shrimp paste, sambal stingray, curry, Indonesian fried rice, and Thai mango pudding. Although she encourages you to mix and match to suit your palate or whimsy, for the Thai menu (or the Malay, or the BBQ, or dim sum, or Korean, etc.), you've got to use whatever is appropriate to the style or to the region. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

24.FAST FOOD MANIAC (Three Rivers Press, 2016, 278 pages, ISBN 978-0-553-41803-3, $15 US soft covers) is by Jon Hein, who was the host of Fast Food Mani on Discovery TV. He's a rabid fast food fan within pop culture. As such he caters to over a quarter of a million fast food places in North America. His book explores the cultural history and menu items of national (first part) and regional (second part) chains, ranking the food, and making his own expert tips on where to go and what to eat (third part of the book). He's got some short notes on chains no longer with us, such as Red Barn. The book is profusely illustrated with menus and logos and pix of the typical food. But there is no index. A fun book, especially for American families who eat out a lot. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

25.HAPPY HENS & FRESH EGGS (Douglas & McIntyre, 2015, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-77162-097-0, $22.95 CAN soft covers) is by Signe Langford, a former Toronto chef (Riverside Cafe, Amber) who now writes for a wide variety of publications. She's got some hens at her place: the book's subtitle is "keeping chickens in the kitchen garden, with 100 recipes". It is an interesting book on urban farming, and there are many cities where it is legal to have chickens in the back yard (Vancouver, Victoria, London, Niagara Falls, Kingston). If you ant to raise urban chickens for their eggs, then this is the book for you. She tells all you will need to know about coops, roosters, year round production, best breeds for backyards (e.g. Chantecler, Ameraucana), feeding and gardening, and the like. Many, many stories too about life with the ladies. The recipes (some from well-known contributors such as Vij, Calder, Reader and Cushing) all deal with eggs, and like the birds, they are arranged by season (Spring through Winter), covering many uses for eggs beyond the breakfast plate. She's got a few pages on treating illnesses, but I also wish she had some more pages on what to do with the flock when their time is up (even if she needed pages edged in black). There must be more to death than just stock and pot pies. Still, an engaging book, well-worth the time in reading. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents given. Two indexes complete the book, one for the chickens and the gardens, and another for the recipes. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! ENCHILADAS (Trinity University Press)

ENCHILADAS: Aztec to Tex-Mex (Trinity University Press, 2015, 239 pages, ISBN 978-1-59534-751-0, $39.95 US hard covers) is by Cappy Lawton, who has designed, developed and operated 29 restaurants in Texas. Today, with his wife Suzy and his son Trevor, he actively owns three in San Antonio: La Fonda on Main (in business since 1932), Cappy's and Cappyccino's. His co-author is Chris Waters Dunn, a San Antonio food writer with a creative writing MFA and culinary degree from CIA. Major log rollers include Mark Miller and Anne Lindsay Greer, who have both written about southwest US food. The book collects a variety of more than 60 regional enchiladas and 40 sauces and garnishes, from Baja to Yucatan, ending up with Tex-Mex. Just about all of them are lavishly illustrated with up close photos. The first 90 pages deal with a primer about ingredients and the techniques of making tortillas, roasting chiles, making refried beans, assembling, and some tips on garnishing and accompaniments. Then follows the parade of contents: pork, beef, poultry, seafood, dairy, and vegetable. The Tex-Mex section is entirely different, and has notes on brisket, chicken, cheese, and gravies. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Source material at the back carefully explains the derivation of each particular recipe (some are from books), including changes and modifications and some updating. A lot of the recipes come from La Fonda on Main, but even these have been changed a bit for the US home kitchen. At the back there is a glossary of Spanish food terms. This was a recent winner at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

Audience and level of use: those interested in Mexican food

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: enchiladas de atun (tuna), enchiladas banderas, enchiladas de nayarit, enchiladas de langosta, enchiladas nortenas,  de pato, enchiladas rojas, napa slaw, red rice, roasted tomato salsa.

The downside to this book: weight-wise, it is close to five pounds.

The upside to this book: it does a good job of dissing the notion that enchiladas are just rolled and smothered in some gravy.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

 

26.VEGETABLES, HERBS & FRUIT; an illustrated encyclopedia (Firefly, 2013, 2015, 640 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-200-6, $29.95 CAN soft covers) is by Matthew Biggs, Jekka McVicar, and Bob Flowerdew. Separately, they had written books dealing with vegetables (Biggs, 1997), herbs (McVicar, 1994) and fruit (Flowerdew, 1995), and they had last been revised in 2002. Here they have been collated into three distinct sections, with glossary, bibliography, seed sources, yearly calendar, and practical gardening matters. Each botanical plant has been identified, illustrated, given a variety of names under which it is known ("species"), some cultivation notes, some culinary uses, some medicinal uses, and some warnings and other uses. So for example, parsley has three zone 5 species, it propagates by seed, pests are notes, gardening and harvesting are noted, two preps (fine herbes and fish bouquet garni) are given, diuretic use and poultices are mentioned, and other uses include killing head lice. The warning is to not use parsley for medicine during a pregnancy. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Caution: the book weighs 2 kilos. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

27.THE SCHOOL OF SOPHISTICATED DRINKING (Greystone Books, 2013, 2015, 244 pages, ISBN 978-1-77164-119-7, $22.95 CAN soft covers) is by Beate Hinderman and Kerstin Ehmer. It's "an intoxicating history of seven spirits" according to the subtitle, although one of the seven is Champagne which is actually a wine. The book was originally published in Germany in 2013 and translated for the North American market. It is a general overview but lively account of how (in separate chapters) brandy, vodka, whisky, rum, gin, tequila and Champagne have fared through history, looking at them from angles dealing with social, political, and scientific themes. Both authors are part of the team behind the Victoria Bar in Berlin; they began a lecture series there known as the School of Sophisticated Drinking. Cocktails are mentioned throughout, and their recipes are collected at the back, with page references. While it has some end notes and a bibliography, it has no index, a major failing. I think it should have had an alphabetical index to the cocktail recipes, at the very least. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

28.THE WINE BIBLE. 2d ed. Revised and updated. (Workman Publishing, 2001, 2015, 996 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-8083-8, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Karen MacNeil, once Culinary Institute of America director of wine in Napa. She's now a consultant and a free-lancer for food and wine magazines. The book was originally published in 2001; of course, much has happened in the wine world since then (and 90 pages have been added). Every chapter has been researched and consulted with experts. The problem with the misspelling "ice wine" has been fixed. With a lot of data and facts being crammed into this book (all of it readable and legible; no squinting at the typeface), there are bound to be some misprints. Each wine region chapter concludes with a few pages on "wines to know"; these are thumbnail sketches of wineries with short, generic tasting descriptions for a half-dozen of so US nationally distributed wines from each region, accompanied by its wine label. The notes reflect the generalities of the producer, not the vintage being sold. So there is really no detail on the quality of any particular vintages. There is no range of prices, so you do not know what it is selling for. And there is a separate "Index of Producers Found in Wines to Know", so you can clearly access these wines quickly. There is an extensive table of contents (five pages) plus 72 pages of indexes, wines laws, glossaries, and bibliography. All the usual wine data are covered, with black and white photos, "what to look for" sidebars, technical discussions, and interesting notes scattered about in screened boxes. Her opinions are, for the most part, spot on. The Canadian section has been doubled since the 2001 edition. What I do like about this book is its price and its value to both the casual and the professional user. QPR: 92.

 

 

 

 

29.THE PLAN COOKBOOK (Grand Central Life & Style, 2014, 2015, 214 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-5651-9, $17.99 US soft covers) is by Lyn-Genet Recitas who wrote the bestseller, The Plan. This is the 2015 paperback reprint, reissued as is. It is an anti-inflammatory nutrition protocol. Some material from the first book is necessarily repeated here, but I should think that you would not need both books. If you are indeed interested in The Plan, then this is the book, with all of its recipes. The Plan seems to have helped people lose weight fast and forever by discovering which food work for their unique body chemistry. Her preps are supposed to boost your energy and cut inflammation, as well as make you lose weigh. It is a lifestyle change. Preps cover all meals, from breakfast through salads, soups, sides, apps, sauces, dressings, mains, and desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Some interesting recipes include vegan cream of mushroom soup, duck breast tacos, whipped coconut cream, venison medallions in apple bourbon sauce, mini lamb meatballs, and steak fajitas. Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

30.W.C. WHITFIELD'S MIXED DRINKS AND COCKTAILS (Skyhorse Publishing, 2015, 132+ pages, ISBN 978-1-63450-222-1, $16.99 US hard covers) is an historical book. It is a reprint of Whitfield's two cocktail books, with over 600 recipes: Just Cocktails (1939) and Here's How: Mixed Drinks (1941). Both were originally published as hand-lettered and sans-serif type with nifty and funny line drawing illustrations, and this has been continued here. It is an illustrated, old-school bartender's guide, with quotes scattered throughout. Hey, if we are drinking old-school cocktails, then we certainly need an old-school guide!! Try Pink Whisker, Magnolia Blossom, White Cargo, Bachelor's Bait, Five Fifteen Beauty Spot. And the cocktail names could also serve as names of boy bands.

Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

 

31.SUPER FOOD EVERY DAY (Ten Speed Press, 2015, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-940-0, $14.99 US soft covers) is by Sue Quinn, a UK food writer, book author, and journalist. It was originally published in France as "Super Food: La Bible"  and then in Australia as "Cooking with Superfoods". This is the North American edition. There are 65 recipes here using kale, blueberries, chia seeds – about 52 in all (greens, tubes, squashes, nuts, seeds, fruit, beans, oily fish). It is all arranged by course, from breakfast through apps, sides, mains, and desserts. The primer includes drawings, and the photos are sharp for the plated dishes. There's a creamy comfort soup (mainly cauliflower and beans), containing Vitamins C and K, folate, molybdenum, and fibre. Or a detox bowl with squash and dried cranberries, loaded with six different goodies. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

32.THE BEST AND LIGHTEST (Clarkson Potter, 2015, 336 pages, ISBN 978-0-8041-8534-9, $25 US soft covers) is from the editors of Food Network Magazine. It is a selection of 150 recipes for all three daily meals. It's a basic cookbook, emphasizing lightness in food, arranged by categories from soups and stews through sweets. To lighten a dish, the magazine substitutes ingredients. For stuffed baked potatoes, they mixed pureed cauliflower into the filling. Ham and mushroom risotto has a barley substitution, although here they lose the gluten-free crowd. Fried fish is now baked fish. And so on – with 500 calories being the cap, per person. Icons show which dishes are GF, vegan or just vegetarian. Nutritional data is also supplied. There are two recipe indexes: the one at the front is a pictorial index so that you can see what the dish looks like (it is arranged in page order); the one at the back is an alphabetical index by ingredient. It's basic food such as sardine salad sandwiches, scallops with cabbage, chicken salad with gazpacho dressing, turkey and avocado sandwich, and shrimp tacos. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

 

33.THE WORLD ATLAS OF COFFEE (Firefly, 2014, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-470-3, $35 CAN hard covers) is by James Hoffmann, barista champion and operator for a coffee roasting company in London UK. It is a reissue-reprint of a popular book from 2014. There are details on some 29 coffee growing countries in Africa, Asia, and the Americas, along wit harvesting, processing, roasting and brewing methods. The best way to make coffee at home is also covered. Detailed maps locate key growing areas and chart trends worldwide. Lots of great colour illustrations and photos. Updates include the Potato Defect, organic and fair traded coffees, and modern business information. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

34.THE DORITO EFFECT; the surprising new truth about food and flavor (Simon & Schuster, 2015, 2016, 261 pages, ISBN 978-1-4767-2423-2, $22 US soft covers) is by Mark Schatzker,  an award-winning food journalist and author of "Steak". He's on CBC and writes often for the Globe and Mail. This book was originally published in 2015; this is the 2016 paperback reprint. His premise is that the flavour of food is changing: all food seems to be bigger and cheaper but blander. Also, technology now produces in the lab those flavours that have been lost due to agribusiness. The lab materials are added to the bland chicken as "seasonings". Our natural sense of eating well through evolution has been transformed into eating unnatural flavours that create addictions to foods the create obesity. The easy answer to reverse this is to produce better tasting natural food, getting rid of chemically-induced habit-forming unnatural flavours. At the end of the narrative he proposes his principles on how to live long and eat flavourfully: eat real flavour; flavour starts in the womb; eat organic from a small farm; eat herbs/spices/chocolate/wine; avoid synthetic flavours; avoid restaurants that use synthetics. There is a bibliography, end notes, and index. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

35.THE NEW TRAILSIDE COOKBOOK; 100 delicious recipes for the camp chef (Firefly Books, 2013, 2015, 191 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-189-4, $19.95 CAN soft covers) is by Kevin Callan and Margaret Howard. He has written several books on camping, while she has written books on outdoor grilling and preserving. The book is a reprint-reissue of a popular 2013 title. The 100 preps here are easy, nutritious, and full of energy. They range from "gorp" (which we ourselves make at home with bitter chocolate, raisins and almonds, but here -- in this book – references "good old raisins and peanuts") to gourmet (which needs a bit more time). Chapters cover all courses, plus dehydrating food, shopping/packing, camp stoves, cold weather camping, weekend gourmet and living off the land. There's also a planner for all the work to be done at home and at camp. There is even a seven day menu plan. Tips and advice in the form of sidebars provide references to handling bears (!!), cooking at high altitudes, smoking, storage, ax handling, and one litre boxed wines. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both

metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Some interesting preps include grilled banana oatmeal pancakes, herb and garlic pasta, peanut butter banana muffins, pesto avocado dip, polenta appetizer pie, tuna quesadilla, baked veggie loaf. Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

36.MY KITCHEN IN ROME (Grand Central Life & Style, 2016, 384 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-8515-8, $28 US hard covers) is by Rachel Roddy, a former actress from London but living in Rome since 2005. She fell in love with the Testaccio quarter that centres around a slaughterhouse and a food market. This is her account of a year of cooking in Rome (shopping, cooking, eating, writing). In 2008 she began a blog documenting her daily food activities in the "cucina romana", and this became the foundation for her book (first published in 2015 by Hodder & Stoughton in the UK). There is some rich text on how it all began for her, followed by 5 sections: antipasti, soup & pasta, meat & fish, vegetables, and dolci. Try the beef rolls in tomato sauce, or the oxtail with tomatoes and celery, sweet and sour onions, octopus and potato salad, or the ricotta and lemon bundt pie. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements (with added metric in the baking area where she scales), but there is no table of metric equivalents. A useful urban Italian cuisine cookbook with some scenic non-food photos. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

----------------------------------------------------

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Media tasting and dinner with Periklis Drakos, Exports Director at Tsantali Winery.

The Date and Time: Wednesday, March 9, 2016  6:30PM to 10PM

The Event: Media tasting and dinner with Periklis Drakos, Exports Director at Tsantali Winery in northern Greece. He also handles Santo winery on Santorini. We tasted wines from both.

The Venue: Vintage Conservatory

The Target Audience: wine media, mostly Wine Writers' Circle of Canada

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available or will be soon.

The Quote/Background: Mr. Drakos spoke about the current situation in Greek wines and how price is a factor. Germany is their best market. He led us through the tasting, emphasizing the consistency of the brands' wines year over year. Both wineries use all French oak. Between tastings, he showed videos of the vineyards and production techniques.

The Wines: Wines are also available via Kolonaki Group www.kolonakigroup.com

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Santorini Assyrtiko 2015, $14.95 June General List LCBO, bottled in Feb.

-Santorini Assyrtiko Grande Reserve 2013, $34.95 TBD, 12 months medium toast French oak at 14.7% ABV.

-Tsantali Rapsani Grande Reserve 2009, ~$50 [equal parts xinomavro, krassato, stavroto]

18 months in French oak, from Mount Olympus.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Santorini Assyrtiko Sparkling Brut NV Methode Traditionelle, $26.95 TBD

-Santorini Vinsanto 2008 $37.95 LCBO Store #4 750 mL or Kolonaki Group consignment [85% assyrtiko. 15% aidani]

-Tsantali Rapsani Reserve 2012, $19.95 Vintages [equal parts xinomavro, krassato, stavroto]

 

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Tsantali Rapsani 2013, $13.40 General List [equal parts xinomavro, krassato, stavroto]

 

 

The Food: we started with a reception cheeseboard and charcuterie platter, followed by a Caesar salad (with the white wine), beef tenderloin on polenta (with the red wine), and tiramisu (with the vinsanto). All was well as the Caesar was lightly dressed.

The Downside: there was some confusion about hot to let people into the secured space (we had to navigate through two sets of locked doors).

The Upside: a chance to talk with Perikles.

The Contact Person: zis.passas@kolonakigroup.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for March 19, 2016.

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for March 19, 2016.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market, with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at www.deantudor.com

 

20 under $20

=========

Fruit - Georgian Hills Bartlett Frozen to the Core 2014 Blue Mountains Ontario, +347401, $19.95 375 mL, sweet pear,  MVC/QPR: 92.

 

R-Zaccagnini dal Tralcetto Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2013, +396382, $19.95,  MVC/QPR:  89.

R-Antichi Poderi Jerzu Chuerra Riserva Cannonau di Sardegna 2011 Sardinia, +270272, $17.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2011 Tuscany, +324160, $19.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Frascole Chianti Rufina 2012 Tuscany, +85167, $17.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Renzo Masi Erta e China 2012 IGT Rosso di Toscana, +132308, $16.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Konzelmann Late Harvest Gewurztraminer 2013 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +392357, $14.75, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2014 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +89029, $17.95, 10% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Indelible Wines Vintage Ink Sauvignon Blanc 2014 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +391953, $16.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Susana Balbo Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Uco Valley Mendoza, +260919, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Vina Montgras Antu Syrah 2014 Colchagua Valley, +675371, $17.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Alto Casablanca Primus The Blend 2013 Colchagua Valley, +712463, $19.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Ad Lib Hen & Chicken Chardonnay 2014 Pemberton Western Australia, +297697, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Winery of Good Hope Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2013 WO Stellenbosch, +739955, $15.95,

MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Cedre Heritage Malbec 2012 Cahors, +148635, $17.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Chateau Bellevue La Foret 2011 Fronton, +354134, $13.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Fontes de Cunha Mondeco Red 2010 Dao, +442210, $13.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-San Jose de Aguaron Monasterio de las Vinas Reserva 2006 Carinena, +166579, $14.95, 13% ABV. MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Arroyo Senorio de Sotillo Crianza 2011 Ribera del Duero, +438648, $19.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Vinicola Real Vina Los Valles Tempranillo/Graciano Crianza 2010 Rioja, +438721, $19.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

 

 

20 over $20

=========

R-Villa Mora Montefalco Sagrantino 2009 Umbria, +342394, $25.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-A & G Natale Fantino Cascina Dardi Bussia Barolo 2010 Piedmont, +268515, $49.95,  14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Riserva Chianti Classico 2012, +943613, $24.95, MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Il Molino di Grace Il Margone Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2010, +435115, $39.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2012, +566216, $24.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2012, +241182, $35.20, 11% ABV, MVC/QPR: 94.

W-Culmina Decora Riesling 2014 BC VQA Okanagan Valley, +444836, $24.95,  13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Henry of Pelham Estate Cabernet/Merlot 2012, +395855, $24.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2011 BC VQA Okanagan Valley, +626325, $44.95, 13.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-L.F. Edwards Merea Chardonnay 2014 Leyda Valley Chile, +439349, $22.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Intriga Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Maipo, +57901, $22.95, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Burch Family Howard Park Miamup Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Margaret River, +410019, $22.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2013 WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley South Africa, +999516, $57.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Michel Picard Les Chalumeaux Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2008, +446237, $64.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Marnier-Lapostelle Chateau de Sancerre Sancerre 2014, +340893, $24.95, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Chateau Coufran 2005 Haut-Medoc, +446666, $56.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Cheateau de L'Ou Infiniment Syrah 2012 IGP Cotes Catalanes, +440610, $26.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2011, +959627, $46.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92

R-Quinta Vale do Armo Vila Jardim Special Selection 2011 VR Tejo, +277624, $22.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Muga Seleccion Especial 2010 Rioja, +712067, $39.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Benvenuto Brunello Toronto 2016

 

The Date and Time: Tuesday, March 8, 2016  Noon to 4PM

The Event: Benvenuto Brunello Toronto 2016

The Venue: AGO

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available through an agency, although some wineries were looking for representation.

The Quote/Background: The Consorzio di Brunello di Montalcino was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the DOC appellation. The walk around tasting featured 37 wineries from the region, most with principals attending here. There was an LCBO public buying function later that evening, but the Rosso wines were not available for purchase.

The Wines: I did not try all the wines, preferring to begin with the oldest first. In addition to the reds, there were three sweet wines (half-bottles). All of the Brunellos listed are, of course, DOCG; the Rossos are DOC.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-PODERE LE RIPI LUPI E SIRENE RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009    

-UCCELLIERA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Riserva 2010

-VOLIERO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-SASSODISOLE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Riserva 2007

-LIVIO SASSETTI PERTIMALI RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010

-ARGIANO RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010

-FATTORIA DEI BARBI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2005

-CAPANNA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2010

-COL D'ORCIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA POGGIO AL VENTO 2008

-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-FANTI RISERVA VIGNA LE MACCHIARELLE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010

-FANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010

-IL GRAPPOLO RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009

-LA FIORITA RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2007

-LISINI UGOLAIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009

-MASTROJANNI VIGNA LORETO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-PALAZZO RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009

-PALAZZO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2010

-RENDOLA ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2009 [Vintages-May, $14.95]

 

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-LA FIORITA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010

-PODERE LE RIPI AMORE E MAGIA ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2010

-LA FIORITA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009

-FANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VALLOCCHIO 2011

-PODERE LE RIPI LUPI E SIRENE RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010

-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO PRIME DONNA 2011

-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2010

-RENDOLA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004

-LIVIO SASSETTI PERTIMALI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-PIETRANERA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011    

-POGGIOTONDO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-PICCINI VILLA AL CORTILE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2010

-NARDI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-BANFI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010    

-BANFI POGGIO ALLE MURA RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009

-VILLA I CIPRESSI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-MASTROJANNI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-VILLA I CIPRESSI ZEBRAS BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009    

-CAPARZO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2010

-CASA RAIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010   

-MARCHESI DE' FRESCOBALDI CASTELGIOCONDO RIPE AL CONVENTO RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009

-BERTANI VAL DI SUGA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

-VAL DI SUGA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010    

-UCCELLIERA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011    

 

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-PICCINI VILLA AL CORTILE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011    

-ARGIANO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011    

-ALTESINO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011             

-ALTESINO MONTOSOLI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011    

 

The Food: international cheeses, breads and breadsticks.

The Downside: it got really crowded really fast.

The Upside: a small enough selection of wines to perfectly fit the afternoon; it was a reasonable amount to handle.

The Contact Person: p.titone@ice.it

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Some New wines tasted this month

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

1.Henry of Pelham Family Tree White 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +251116, $17.95 Vintages: HOP makes a very serious blended white wine and red wine (see below), with grapes from their site (about 40% of the blend) and from across Niagara. The grapes change from year to year, as do the percentages. For 2012, they've got chardonnay (60%), viognier (20%), gewurztraminer (11%), and sauvignon blanc (9%). Each, of course, contributes various distinctive aromatics and flavour profiles. Not only that, about 40% of it is barrel fermented and aged in barrel for 8 months (I'm guessing mostly chardonnay), and the balance is in stainless steel with no malolactic so as to preserve freshness (the wine is about four years old now). So we have orchard fruit, citrus, and some lingering spicy aftertaste. Cork closure, 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

2.Henry of Pelham Family Tree Red 2013 VQA Ontario, +247882, $18.95 Vintages: This red blend for 2013 (it can change with each release) comprises syrah (40%), cabernet franc (30%), cabernet sauvignon (15%), merlot (10%), and baco noir (5%). The latter may have resulted in a VQA Ontario designation rather than a VQA Niagara. It's all barrel aged, 65% French oak and 35% US oak for 17 months. It is substantial, reflecting the aromatics and flavour profiles of the grapes used. Cherry-berry tones, fresh spices on the finish, some spine to stand up to hearty food. Cork closure, 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

3.Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot Estate VQA Short Hills Bench, +395855, $24.95 Vintages: both cabernet franc and sauvignon are used in this Bordeaux-styled blend which comes across as a mid-Atlantic version of Cali/Bordeaux New World and Old World. It is still in its youth at 3.5 years of age, and it would be a shame to consume it this young. You could do what I did: open it and drink it over a couple of weeks, exposing it to air gently or speeding up the process by double-triple decanting. You will get several different wines out of one bottle over the course of time. Extended maceration in stainless, followed by French and UA oak (40% new) for 18 months. Currently, you could match it with heavy meats. 14% ABV on label. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

4.Abeille-Fabre Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2011, +959627, $43.95 Vintages: a bargain wine for its price, still too young to consume unless you double-decant and drink it over a few days. Half of the wine was made in barrels, the other half in vats. A selection of the better barrels is made into a single blend after 18 months, and stored for six months before release. It will be well-aged after another 10 years. Of the 13 permitted varieties, grenache, syrah, and mourvedre are dominant, with cinsault, counoise, muscardin, and vaccarese added. Still tight but plenty of black fruits and spices. 14.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

5.Culmina Family Estate Decora 2014 BC VQA Okanagan Valley, +444836, $24.95 Vintages: this single vineyard 100% riesling comes in at 13% ABV. It is a solid beam of energy, bone dry but with emerging "petrol" notes dancing on top of floral and citric tones, not unlike a Clare riesling. Well-framed and well-priced. Best with a variety of lightly-hot spicy foods, or pork/poultry/seafoods. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

6.Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2014 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $13.95, +81653 LCBO: A consistent wine, year in and year out, my fave chardonnay at this price level. There's a new label, and a new back label with more info, stressing its lighter body and fruity finish (orchard fruit) with some buttery complexity from the barrel fermentation, and with a longer finish. Aged in oak for 9 months. Tastes amazingly richer than previous vintages, buy it up. Cork closure, 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

7.Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2012 VQA NOTL, +454967, $16.95 LCBO: A nifty well-aged wine (almost four years now), with some forest floor (mushrooms, earth) to complement the red fruit (strawberries are suggested). Estate grown and bottled. Good written notes on the back label are spot on. Just under subtle oaking, with a moderate intensity of medium flavours. Ready to drink now. Cork closure, 13.1% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

8.Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Maipo Valley, +337238 Vintages Essentials, $21.95: one of the better values from Concha y Toro, a determined prize winner every year. Some changes this year: fruit comes from both the acclaimed Puente Alto and the Pirque Vineyards, plus further aging (after initial French oak barrels) is now done in 5000 litre foudres from Piedmont. This has led to retention of its black fruit component but it is also in a more fruity, more juicy and less oaky style with a lingering food-friendly finish. 6% Cabernet Franc has been added plus small buts of Syrah and Merlot. 14% ABV, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com