WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for July 9, 2016.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for July 9, 2016.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com

 

FAVE UNDER $20 – Olarra Laztana Reserva 2010 Rioja, 14% ABV, +433649, $19.95, MVC/QPR:92

 

20 under $20

=========

W-Gerard Bertrand Reserve Speciale Viognier 2014 IGP Pays d'Oc, +147975, $14.95,  MVC/QPR:  88

W-Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2013 VQA Short Hills Bench, 11% ABV, +557165, $17.96, MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Barahonda Sin Madera Monastrell 2014 Yecla, 14.5% ABV, +366823, $14.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Coppi Peucetico Primitivo 2010 Giola del Colle Puglia, 13.5% ABV, +724674, $14.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Viewpoint Estate Fine Pinot Noir 2010 VQA Lake Erie North Shore, 13% ABV, +443812, $19.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Chateau des Charmes St. David's Bench Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 VQA St.David's Bench, +430991, $19.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Tinhorn Creek Chardonnay 2014 BC VQA Okanagan Valley, 14% ABV, +378489, $19.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Stratus Kabang Gewurztraminer 2013 VQA NOTL, 13.4$ ABV, +442012, $17.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Tilimuqui Single Vineyard Torrontes 2015 Famatina Valley La Rioja Argentina, +450486, $13.95, MVC/QPR: 91 [organic AND Fair Trade cert.]

R-Finca El Origen Reserva Estate Malbec 2015 Uco Valley, 14.1%, +65664, $15.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Kaiken Terroir Series Corte Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Mendoza, 14% ABV, +384305, $15.95,

MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Casas del Bosque Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Casablanca Valley, 14% ABV, +974717, $14.95,

MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Santa Carolina Gran Reserva Petit Verdot 2013 Rapel, 14.5% ABV, +7484, $15.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Waimea Spinyback Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Nelson South Island, +694737, $19.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Toi Toi Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Marlborough, 13% ABV, +454785, $17.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Brampton Old Vine Red Blend 2013 WO Western Cape South Africa, 14% ABV, +455303, $15.95,

MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Domaine de la Chaise Touraine Sauvignon 2014, 13% ABV, +452540, $14.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Senorio de Los Baldios Crianza 2009 Ribera del Duero, 14%, +366393, $19.95,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Vicchiomaggio Ripa Delle Mandorle 2014 IGT Toscana, 13% ABV, +677930, $15.95,  MVC/QPR: 90

R-Lafage Tessellae Vieilles Vignes Carignan 2014 IGP Cotes Catalanes, 14.5% ABV, +343509, $17.95,

MVC/QPR: 89.

 

20 over $20

=========

W-Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2013 VQA Short Hills Bench, +616466, $29.95,   MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Flat Rock The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2013 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, +1552, $24.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Artesa Chardonnay 2013 Carneros, +657585, $29.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Bachelder Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay 2013 Burgundy,  13% ABV, +416602, $28.95, MVC/QPR:94.

R-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Meritage 2012 VQA Niagara, 13.5% ABV, +594002, $24.95, MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Delicato Irony Small Lot Reserve Chardonnay 2013 Napa Valley, 14.5% ABV, +27409, $21.95, MVC/QPR: 91.

W-La Crema Chardonnay 2014 Monterey, 13.5% ABV, +158683, $26.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Mahi Pinot Noir 2013 Marlborough, 13.5% ABV, +447532, $20.95,  MVC/QPR: 92.

R-Chateau Haut Rocher 2008 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, 13.5% ABV, +446252, $34.95,  MVC/QPR:89

R-Chateau Haut-Bellvue 2010 Haut-Medoc, 13.5%, +444307, $26.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Sivas-Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Sonoma County, +451377, $24.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Xavier Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2011, 14.5% ABV, +244814, $39.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Castello di Gabbiano Gran Selezione Bellezza Chianti Classico 2012, 14.5% ABV, +652438, $39.95,

MVC/QPR: 89.

R-La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2010, 14.5% ABV, +642561, $63.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Piazzano Blend 2 2013 IGT Toscana, 14% ABV, +455493, $24.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Lone Birch Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Yakima Valley, 13.9% ABV, +446971, $20.95,  MVC/QPR:88

W-Chatelain Les Charmes Pouilly-Fume 2013, 12.5% ABV, +727990, $21.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2013 IGT Toscana, 13.5% ABV, +727636, $29.95,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Georges Duboeuf Domaine Mont Chavy Morgon 2013, 12.5% ABV, +276477, $21.95,  MVC/QPR:87.

R-Chateau Bernadotte 2012 Haut-Medoc, 13.5% ABV, +970178, $22.95,  MVC/QPR: 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * Waldorf Astoria Bar Book (Penguin)

 

1.THE WALDORF ASTORIA BAR BOOK (Penguin Books, 2016, 406 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-312480-1, $25 USD hard covers) is by Frank Caiafa, who became bar manager of Peacock Alley in the lobby of the Waldorf-Astoria in 2005. It is a significant book for both home-use and professional bar use, with huge chapters on creating bitters, syrups, juices and sours.

It is based on two books by Albert Stevens Crockett (Old Waldorf Bar Days from 1931, and The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book from 1934), with of course other preps from other books of that era. He has added the recipe's origin next to the title of each entry that did not originate from either of Crockett's books. So in general there is acknowledgment of origins. Lots has been modernized, and many contemporary cocktails have been added. The original 1934 book had 625 preps. The index shows that most of the recipes seem to be gin-based. Apart from the garnishes/setups, punches and hot drinks, the cocktail preps are arranged alphabetically by name, A – Z. Use the index for type of spirit. At the very end there is a chapter on cocktails very rarely seen anymore: is it time to bring them back?  Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: those looking for authenticity in the cocktail business, a history of cocktails and cocktail books.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: some drinks from Peacock Alley itself include  Arrivederci, Au Pear, Autumn Solstice, Cinful, Pie on the Sill (lovely name), Cole Porter, and Islands in the Stream.

The downside to this book: nothing really.

The upside to this book: just a handful of illustrations (keeps the book's price down).

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

19.MICROGREENS; how to grow nature's own superfood (Firefly, 2010, 2016, 120 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-714-1, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Fionna Hill, a gardener-floral designer who also writes books and magazine articles. It's a revised edition of a 2010 book. Hill's definition is that they are larger than sprouts but smaller than baby salad greens. They are useful to grow in a limited amount of space such as an apartment balcony or a window sill. Most varieties are ready in a week, and they contain a large amount of nutritional material. Hill gives us data on 30 (up from 20 in the older edition) popular varieties (arugula, beet, kale, peas, broccoli, basil, et al), as well as 16 (up from 12) recipes. Flavours range from mild to hot, nutty or spicy, but microgreens are also interchangeable to some extent. A recipe may call for only as handful of microgreens: what they are will be up to what you grow. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, and  there is a table of equivalents. There's a glossary and resources listing. As she says, "Flavours change as the plant grows. As the leaves open, they begin to manufacture energy from light. That gives them a change in flavour. The most intense flavour comes when

that first leaf opens." No price change since the first edition. Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

20.THE COMPLETE ROOT CELLAR BOOK; building plans, uses, and 100 recipes (Robert Rose, 2010, 264 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0243-3, $27.95 Canadian, paper covers) is by Steve Maxwell, a home improvement author with his own root cellar, and Jennifer MacKenzie, a professional home economist, author and editor. Together they present 30 easy-to-follow illustrated

plans for all kinds of storage, plus 100 recipes to use the "roots". The book was originally published in 2010, and this is a reissue. The variety of storage includes cold rooms, storage containers, basement cellars, stand-alone cellars, outdoor structures, cellars for condos and townhouses, and cellars for a warmer climate. They have a huge list of fruits and veggies, and for each there are notes on optimal storage conditions for both outdoor and indoor storage, storage life in a cellar, plus what to do when the food starts to deteriorate. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. The book concludes with a resources list and a bibliography. Did you know that beets that have gone soft during storage are still good to eat after they are boiled? Try sauerkraut, vegetable pot pie, sage butter parsnip soufflé, or roasted onion and potato soup. Even a rumtopf. Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

21.RAW FOOD DETOX (Ryland, Peters and Small, 2012, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-728-7, $19.95 US hard covers) is by Anya Ladra, founder of Raw Fairies, a raw food delivery company in the UK. As the publisher notes, "revitalize and rejuvenate with these delicious low-calorie recipes to help you lose weight and improve your energy levels." The current book is a revision of her earlier book from 2012. It's got 70 recipes.  She uses plant-based organic ingredients and methods such as soaking, sprouting, and dehydrating. A raw food detox is supposed to promote clear glowing skin and give you better energy. It is also touted as painless. She begins with a five-day cleansing detox. Then there are chapters devoted to juices and smoothies, salads and dressings, mains, snacks, sweets and desserts. Carrot and lemon juice with omega-3 oils is a good start to the day, followed by a sprouted buckwheat salad or tomato quiche with almond pastry. For snacks, we could all enjoy spicy almonds or Italian flaxseed crackers. For the meat eaters, there's a mushroom pate and a range of desserts. The diet is easy; the dishes may take a little insight to prepare. Recipes have their ingredients listed mainly in avoirdupois with some metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. There's a list of suppliers in the UK and the US. Quality/price

rating: 87.

 

 

22.A HANDFUL OF HERBS (Ryland, Peters and Small, 2001, 2016, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-719-5, $19.95 US hard covers) is by Barbara Segall,Louise Pickford, and Rose Hammick. It was originally published in 2001. It's a listing-directory to 75 common herbs, as well as profiles of the 20 "superherbs" (basil, bay, chives, coriander, fennel, through to thyme). There is decorating advice for home-growing. Only 30 recipes, but they are versatile. Most of the book is about the herbs and how to grow; there is a directory of suppliers, including Canada. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

23.PASTA & NOODLES (Juniper Publishing, 2016; distr. Simon & Schuster, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-988002-11-8, $19.95 CDN soft covers) is from the Canadian Living Test Kitchen. They've gone through all their pasta preps and re-did and tested (according to the subtitle)  "101 long and short pastas, noodles, gnocchi, ravioli, baked pastas, sauces, and more!"

The CL Test Kitchen has about 18 other "tested" books in its portfolio, so the arrangement and techniques are pretty well standard by now, and this book should be snapped up by the fans. There are some gluten-free options here, as well as noodles: egg, rice, udon, soba, Asian wheat, and even sweet potato vermicelli. There are also a variety of meatballs, sauces and pestos. The book is neatly Mediterranean and Asiatic. Something for the whole family. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric weights and avoirdupois volume measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

24.MOCKTAILS, CORDIALS, INFUSIONS, SYRUPS AND MORE (Dog 'n' Bone, 2016; distr. T. Allen, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-909313-91-0, $19.95 US hard covers) is a publisher's books with recipes credited to a variety of people who write for Dog 'n' Bone and Ryland Peters & Small: Beshlie Grimes, Ben Reed, and Louise Pickford contributed most of the 80 preps here. These are alcohol-free drinks that have flavours: if you need alcohol, just add some white wine or vodka. Preps include elderflower cordial, strawberry syrup, mint syrup, lavenger lemonade, and so forth. Perfect for the teetotaller, designated driver or detoxer. Very nice illustrations too. Preparations have their ingredients listed in (mostly) metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

25.COOKING WITH CHEESE (Ryland Peters & Small, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-718-9, $21.95 US hard covers) is also a publisher's book with recipes credited to a variety of cookbook writers; the lion's share was done by Laura Washburn, Maxine Clark, and Hannah Miles. The 80+ preps deal mostly with the classics (cheddar straws, French onion soup) and some newer innovations (Manchego & piquillo Spanish tortilla, lavender honey cheesecake). I particularly enjoyed the pear, celery, and blue cheese soup with "salt and sweet" walnuts. Lots going on there... Preparations have their ingredients listed in (mostly) metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

26.THE TOTAL GRILLING MANUAL (Weldon Owens, 2016; distr. Simon & Schuster, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-68188-047-1, $29 US flexibound) has been edited by Lisa Atwood (other sources say "compiled by") – but we do not know from the book where the original texts came from. Nevertheless, this is a handy guide to tools, techniques, and recipes: 264 essentials for cooking with fire. It is arranged by food, from beef through pork, lamb, poultry, seafood, sides and drinks, along with an index that refers to tip number (there are no page numbers). Lots of photos and technique drawings for the basics (pros and cons of cooking over gas or charcoal, indirect and direct-heat cooking, choosing fuel, choosing woods, the right brine ingredients details of meat cuts, flavour combos, and different levels of skills for the recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in (mostly) metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

27.COOK HEALTHY & QUICK (DK, 2016, 400 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-4484-4, $30 US hardbound) is a publisher's title with 300 easy-to-follow recipes at a bargain price. Each has nutritional data (calorie, fat, sugar, etc.). There are options for gluten-free dishes, protein family brunches, low-sugar treats, low-calorie dinners, and lots of greens for lunches. These are step-by-step instructions for 30 minutes or less, with colour codes to show key nutritional benefits. Variations are, of course, included where possible. Typical dishes include cranberry-orange-chocolate quinoa bars, chilled pea and avocado soup shots, kiwi and pear juice, and baked tomatoes stuffed with couscous and black olives with feta. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88. 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Event: Overview of sustainable business practices at Jackson Family Wines Collection. June 20/16

The Date and Time:  Monday, June 20, 2016.  1PM to 3PM

The Event: Overview of sustainable business practices at Jackson Family Wines Collection.

The Venue: Wine Lab at GBC's Chef House, King Street

The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers

The Availability/Catalogue: wines are available by private order, consignment or at Vintages.

The Quote/Background: Julien Gervreau, Director of Sustainability at JFW in Sonoma spoke on the meaning o=f sustainability, organic and biodynamic practices, and the differences between  organic, biodynamic and sustainable farming and winemaking systems. In 2016, JFW garnered the California Green Medal Leader Award for leadership in sustainability. Gervreau said his company's strategy was to be heavily involved in water conservation, energy reuse efficiency, philanthropy, and commitment to future generations of winemakers. Jennifer Huether, MS and Prestige Account Manager Canada for JFW spoke on the wines themselves as we tasted. Gervreau had a PP presentation for each region in the tasting, along with specifics about each wine and the sustainability employed. Overall, JFW uses 30% less ground water (use rainwater), pays price premiums to growers using sustainable practices, and solar panels.

The Wines: The 11 wines came from a variety of regions, including California, Oregon, Tuscany, Australia and South Africa.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Capensis Chardonnay 2013 South Africa, $100.60  Halpern Consignment

-Cambria Benchbreak Pinot Noir 2014, $30.21   Halpern Consignment

-La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $109   B & W; Vintages Sept 22

-Stonestreet Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 $57.95    B & W  PO

-Lokoya Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $630   Halpern PO

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-K-J Vintners Reserve Chardonnay 2014, $19.95 Vintages Essentials

-Stonestreet Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2014, $49.95   B & W Wines; Vintages Sept 3

-La Crema Willamette Pinot Noir 2013 Oregon, $37.95  B & W; Vintages Oct 29

-Jackson Estate Outland Ridge Pinot Noir 2014 Anderson Valley, $49.95  Vintages

-Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico 2013 Tuscany, $29.95    B & W Consignment

-Yangarra Estate Shiraz 2013 Australia, $34.95   B & W  PO

 

The Food: The Cheese Boutique had a tray of international cheeses, led by Roquefort.

The Downside: I arrived late due to medical procedures.

The Upside: a chance to talk with Julien Gervreau, doing Q & A

The Contact Person: susan@thesirengroup.com or ruth@thesirengroup.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Winetario: celebrating the 22nd Annual Ontario Wine Awards. June 16/16

The Date and Time: Thursday, June 16, 2016  3PM to 5PM

The Event: Winetario: celebrating the 22nd Annual Ontario Wine Awards.

The Venue: The Atrium of George Brown College

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available. Unfortunately the catalogue only had a listing of wineries with spaces for notes, no listing of wines and prices, so I was spotty in recording exact information and prices.

The Quote/Background: 18 Wineries participated.

The Wines: I did not taste every wine.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut

-Konzelmann Estate Gewurztraminer Late Harvest 2013, $17 winery

-Palatine Hills Estate Chardonnay 2012 Neufeld Vineyard, $23

-Palatine Hills Estate Merlot 2012 GOLD $35

-Southbrook Vineyards Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2013 Biodynamic

-Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Wood Post 2014 Riesling, $30

-Thirty Bench Wine Makers Sparkling Riesling, $35

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2015, $15

-Creekside Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Reserve, $27

-Diamond Estates Viognier 2014, $18

-Diamond Estates McMichael Group of Seven Chardonnay 2014

-Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Riesling 2013

-Inniskillin Viognier Reserve 2015, $20

-Jackson-Triggs Meritage Red 2014, $25

-Kacaba Vineyards Terrace Syrah 2013, $29.95

-Kacaba Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, $24.95

-Konzelmann Estate Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot 2012 Family Reserve, $50

-Megalomaniac Bubblehead Rose NV Sparkling

-Niagara College Meritage 2011, $28

-Niagara College Gastronomy Chardonnay 2014, $18

-Palatine Hills Estate Riesling 2015, $13

-Peller Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2014

-Pillitteri Estates Cab-Merlot Canadian Gothic 2013, $13

-Southbrook Vineyards Seriously Cool Red

-Trius RH3 Merlot 2012

-Two Sisters Riesling 2014

-Two Sisters Merlot 2012

-Vineland Estates Dry Riesling 2015

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Kacaba Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2014, $24.95

-Megalomaniac Riesling 2015

-Niagara College Rose 2014

-Trius Rose 2015

-Pelee Island Chardonnay Reserve 2015

-Two Sisters Cabernet Franc 2012

-Vineland Estates Game Changer White 2013

 

The Food: some local cheeses via The Cheese Boutique plus breads and fruit. In the evening there were also apps.

The Downside: it was a smaller show than in previous years (last was 2014).

The Upside: more time to spend talking with pourers and winemakers.

The Contact Person: ange@iyellowwinegroup.com or tony.aspler@rogers.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 86.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

14.REMIXOLOGY; classic cocktails, reconsidered and reinvented (Skyhorse Publishing, 2016, 210 pages, ISBN 978-1-63450-659-5, $17.99 US hard covers) is by Michael Turback, owner of Turback's of Ithaca. He's written more than a dozen books on travel, wine and food, and now consults. This is another basic book on cocktails for the newly-inducted imbiber. It's the story of how classics came to be developed and how variations came to be shaped. The basic TEN cocktails are the arrangement (Alexander to Whiskey Sour); the variations are within each. So he has a Manhattan Nouveau, Jamaican Coffee, The Green Mary [tomatillos, kale, jalapeno], and the like. He's got over 250 distinctive preps for the home bar. A good layout and formula, well-worth reading and using. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

15.101 HANGOVER RECIPES (Dog 'n' Bone, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-909313-90-3, $19.95 US hard covers) has been compiled by Dan Vaux-Nobes, who runs a supper club in Bristol UK. It is a nifty little collection with the stable of RP&S writers such as Fiona Smith, Louise Pickford, and Ross Dobson, with 34 others listed. The variety means that if something doesn't work (or work well), then NEXT time, move on to another technique in the book. There are breakfast ideas, brunches, comfort food, superfood salads, juice smoothies, hair of the dog, and more. My fave is the huevos rancheros: beats away the blues every time...Preparations have their ingredients listed in (mainly) avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

16.THE BIG BOOK OF KOMBUCHA (Story Publishing, 2016, 383 pages, ISBN 978-1-61212-433-9, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Hannah Crum and Alex LaLory, creators of Kombucha Kamp which supplies quality brewing materials, information, and support for kombucha makers. They also own Kombucha Brewers International in LA. Kombucha is a fermented tea, a probiotic tea that promotes a healthy gut, improved digestion, improves eyesight, boosts metabolism. Its time has come, in conjunction with quinoa, chia seeds, kale, and microgreens. This is an all-in-one reference tome with many technique photos and more than 200 flavour combos. The authors also give us troubleshooting data for successful homebrewing. Scores and scorers of recipes can be found here in this book dedicated to the homebrewer. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

17.AFTERNOON TEA AT HOME (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-702-7, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Will Torrent, an award-winning consultant pastry chef to Waitrose UK and who has worked with just about all the important chefs (Blumenthal, Oliver) and TV shows. It is a very comprehensive book, detailing the UK tea party. Arranged by season, it covers "tea" nicely in 70 or so recipes (strawberry and champagne tarts, golden ginger custard creams, fig and ricotta crispbreads, fruited scones, Bakewell tarts, et al.). The sandwiches have their own special index, and include chicken, shrimp, beef, salmon. It's a very useful book stressing the food and not the beverage. Sweets and savouries (sandwiches, cured meats) are just about equally covered. At the end there are menus for "Father's Day tea", Birthday party, Anniversary, Bridal, Fireside, Baby, Garden party, among others – all with useful page references. The Resources list covers the US and the UK. Preparations have their ingredients listed in (mainly) metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

18.IDIOT'S GUIDES PRESSURE COOKING (Alpha Books, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-61564-888-7, $21.95 US softbound) is by Tom Hirschfield, a professional chef and recipe developer who  is also an award-winning blogger. It is a basic book, well-illustrated and laid out, full of ideas for pressure cooking for the workday weeknight meal. There's a primer and safety concerns, easy recipes (beginning with breakfast), some mains and sides, soups-stews-chilis, salads and desserts. It is all quick and easy with a pressure cooker. Typical preps include tacos, Korean beef stew, white bean and shiitake soup, New England fish chowder, southern collard greens and rustic split-pea soup. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Nutritional data on calories, carbs, sugar, fibre, protein, fat, cholesterol and sodium is included. Quality/price rating: 85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Launching of Hidden Burger lunches (11AM - 5PM). June 15, 2016

The Date and Time: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 11:30AM to 1PM

The Event: Launching of Hidden Burger lunches (11AM  - 5PM).

The Venue: BCE Place, inside Bottom Line at 22 Front Street West

The Target Audience: food media

The Availability/Catalogue: Hidden Burger's lunch menu combo (100% ground chuck, griddled cheeseburger with toppings, fresh cut fries, jalapeno dip sauce and soft drink) is $10 with tax when ordered through UNOapp @hiddenburgertdot or www.hiddenburger.ca. It keeps it all nice, neat and tidy.

The Quote/Background: There was surprising demand for a classic no-nonsense burger to go, a mobile-first business now developed by Wayne Cowley (NHL goalie, 1988-1995) owner of The Bottom Line sports bar. It is also open as a take-out or stand-up counter to the public via PATH or Front Street, as it is two doors from Hockey Hall of Fame. Free delivery comes if you order the Jughead Platter ($100 for ten burger combos). There are a variety of options, including a double burger at $15 or a veggie burger, and bicycle delivery via Foodora, so the website and UNOapp need to be checked.

The Food: the burger was excellent, meaty, no grease, lots of beef flavour. The cheese melted as it should, and the bun was griddle-toasted. Fries were fresh and bountiful. At the launch, we also had some beers (not available for delivery, just for consumption on site). Mine was the hoppy, phenomenal Boneshaker from Amsterdam.

The Downside: it took awhile for the media to roll in.

The Upside: I got a black Hidden Burger Tee-shirt.

The Contact Person: susan@thesirengroup.com or wayne@bottomlineto.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: POSH Supperclub VIP & Media Launch June 9, Yorkville!!

The Date and Time: Wednesday, June 9, 2016  6PM to 10PM

The Event: POSH Supperclub VIP & Media Launch

The Venue: POSH Supperclub, Cumberland and Yonge

The Target Audience: restaurant/wine media

The Quote/Background: we were greeted by Meg Sethi of Evolution PR, the owners, and Chef Racine. There was a walk-around tour and chats with friendly staff, plus the inevitable cocktails, beers and wines. Red wine was Barefoot Cabernet Sauvignon; white was Barefoot Pinot Grigio. Both were useful and serviceable party wines, made even more economical by the magnum. Actually, the whole wine list is affordable.

The Food: At restaurants, it is always about the food with us. Here there were enticing platters of well-done pork belly confit with Asian sauce, raw ahi tuna with cucumber, chicken breast roulade with smoked gouda and jamon, Greek lamb lollipops with tzatziki, diver scallops with jerk spices, shrimp, skewered meats, and a made-to-order orecchiette pasta with rosemary cream, mushrooms, thyme, and white truffled olive oil. The food was fab and enjoyed by all; there was also lots of it.

The Downside: it was a long day for both my wife and I, so we left before the major entertainment started (but we were greeted earlier on by a performing pianist).

The Upside: a chance to see a new party room in Toronto and to taste its small plates.

The Contact Person: meg.sethi@evolutionpr.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Tantalus Vineyards (Okanagan) portfolio tasting

The Date and Time: Wednesday, June 8, 2016  3PM to 7PM

The Event: Tantalus Vineyards (Okanagan) portfolio tasting

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve

The Target Audience: clients and wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available from the winery by private order through Hobbs & Co, but the Riesling 2015 can be had through Hobbs' consignment. Six bottle cases, including the icewine.

The Quote/Background: Winemaker/General Manager David Paterson presented his wines in a walk-around tasting highlighted by his knowledgeable insights and Margaret Hobbs' social graces. Tantalus overlooks Lake Okanagan and Kelowna. Originally founded as Pioneer Vineyards, the firm planted table grapes in 1927. It is the oldest continuously producing vineyard in BC. Today, Tantalus specializes in Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; the bottle labels alone are collector items.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Tantalus Okanagan Blanc de Noirs 2013, $53

-Tantalus Okanagan Riesling 2015, $38 Consignment

-Tantalus Okanagan Pinot Noir 2013, $47

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Tantalus Okanagan Old Vines Riesling 2013, $58  [38 year old vines]

-Tantalus Okanagan Chardonnay 2013, $47

-Tantalus Okanagan Syrah Icewine 2014, $103

 

The Contact Person: mhobbs@hobbswines.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for June 25, 2016.

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for June 25, 2016.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com

 

20 under $20

=========

W-Domaine de la Baume Elisabeth Viognier 2014 IGP Pays d'Oc, +438796, $16.95, MVC/QPR:  90.

R-Domaine Les Yeuses Les Epices Syrah 2013 IGP Pays d'Oc, 13.5% ABV,  +177584,  $15.95, MVC/QPR: 93 – ** FAVE OF THE MONTH **

R-Domaine des Terrisses Grande Tradition Gaillac 2012, 13% ABV, +451922, $17.95,  MVC/QPR:90

R-Chateau Saint-Roch Chimeres 2014 AP Cotes du Roussillon -Villages, 15% ABV, +119354, $19.95,

MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Domaine de L'Alba E'Ermite 2013 AC Corbieres, 13% ABV, +446138, $17,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Cave Spring Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer 2013 CSV VQA Beamsville Bench, 13.5% ABV, +302059, $17.95, MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Zuccardi Serie A Torrontes 2014 Salta, 14.5% ABV, +389262, $15.95, MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Tapiz Alta Collection Malbec 2013 Mendoza, 14.2% ABV, +450155, $19.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Santa Carolina Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2013 Casablanca, 14% ABV, $15.95, MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Santa Ema Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Leyda Valley, 13.5% ABV, +443507, $15.95, MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Cousino-Macul Don Matias Reserva Syrah 2014 Maipo, 14% ABV, +443515, $14.95, MVC/QPR:89

W-Jardin Inspector Peringury Chenin Blanc 2014 WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% ABV, +443473, $15.95, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Corte Medicea Aros 2014 IGT Toscana, 13.5% ABV, +456947, $14.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Vega Moragona La Duna Single Vineyard Tempranillo 2011 DO Ribera del Jucar, 14% ABV, +378877, $17.95, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Vina Eguia Reserva 2010 Rioja, 13.5% ABV< +325845, $17.95, MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Morgadio da Torre Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2014,  12.5% ABV, +960955,  $17.95, MVC/QPR:  88.

R-Qu Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Maipo, 13.5% ABV, +443531, $16.95, MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Featherstone Four Feathers 2015 VQA Niagara, 12.5% ABV, +341586, $14.95, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Michele Castellani San Michele Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2013, 14% ABV, +410688, $19.95, MVC/QPR: 88.

 

 

20 over $20

=========

R-Henry of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2013 VQA Ontario, 14% ABV, +461699, $24.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Manus dei du Chateau Sixtine Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2012, 15% ABV, +719120, $38.95,        MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Burrowing Owl Pinot Noir 2014 BC VQA Okanagan, 14%ABV, +556613, $40.95,  MVC/QPR: 88

W-Paul Hobbs Crossbarn Chardonnay 2014 Sonoma Coast, 14.1% ABV, +235945, $29.95, MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Rodney Strong Reserve Chardonnay 2013 Russian River Valley Sonoma, 14.5% ABV, +210039, $45.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Napa Cellars Merlot 2013 Napa, 14.2% ABV, +447300, $29.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Columbia Valley, 13.5% ABV, +269357, $20.95,

MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Blue Pyrenees Shiraz 2013 Victoria, 14.5% ABV, +935890, $23.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 2014, 12.8% ABV, +41780, $25.95,  MVC/QPR: 89

R-M Rolland Chateau Fontenil 2008 Fronsac, 14% ABV, +567404, $45.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-St.Urbans-Hof Old Vines Riesling 2014 Mosel, 9.5% ABV, +995746, $21.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Domdechant Werner Hochheimer Riesling Kabinett 2012 Rheingau, 10% ABV, +722413, $21.95, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Gemma Giblin Riserva Barolo 2007, 14% ABV, +185025, $38.95,  MVC/QPR: 91

R-Arpa Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 IGT Toscana, 14% ABV, +455527, $20.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2013, 13.5% ABV, +216309, $22.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Ridolfi Brunello di Montalcino 2010, 14.5% ABV, +458216, $48.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Monte del Fra Lena di Mezzo Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2011, 15.5% ABV, +47506, $53.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Marques de Vitoria Gran Reserva 2005 Rioja, 14% ABV, +699678, $30.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Podere La Cappella Querciolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2011 Unfiltered, 14.5% ABV, +95893, $38.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Domaine Bott-Geyl Schoenenbourg Grand Cru Riesling 2012 Alsace, 13.5% ABV, +456970, $50.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Tawse Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2012 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 14% ABV, +130997, $31.95, MVC/QPR: 88

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: A Taste of Spain – Rueda wines

The Date and Time: Sunday, May 29, 2016  11AM to 5PM

The Event: A Taste of Spain – Rueda wines

The Venue: Patria Restaurant

The Target Audience: wine trade, and then later, Spanish wine lovers.

The Availability/Catalogue: some of the wines are available by consignment, the occasional one turns up at Vintages. There are four on the General LCBO list, but they were not in this show.

The Quote/Background: Felipe Gonzalez-Gordon, Director of DO Rueda, spoke to the wines, most of which were not represented in Ontario. Ten wines were at the seminar, along with six wine writers. Rueda whites are the number one top quality selling white wines in Spain. They became a DO in 1980, and red/rose Rueda followed in 2008. Verdejo, at 10.5 Hectares, has 80% of the plantings, followed by sauvignon blanc (15%) and other varieties (mostly red). The area, like all of Spain, is tightly controlled in terms of expansion by the EU.

The Wines: I did not try every wine. Retail prices were estimates when available, but most verdejos were in the mid-teens or less, most sauvignon blancs were slightly higher. After 12:30 it became a consumer event, and it was tough to get a wine sample as every booth had lineups (not complainin', just explainin'). Some wines I just did not get to.

As far as I can tell, 36 wines were listed but I know for sure than at least one did not arrive.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Emina Personal Carlos Moro Fermentado en Barrica 2009

-Grupo Yllera Cantonsan Espumoso Reserva Familiar NV MT  $20   John Hanna

-Hijos de Alberto Dorado NV

-Jose Pariente Fermentado en Barrica 2013  $32.35  Cottonwood

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Finca Montepredoso Verdejo 2014  STEM

-Marques de Caceres Verdejo 2014   $14.95 Dionysus

-Finca La Colina 2014 Old Vines

-Sanz Sauvignon Blanc 2014   Wineonline

-Friz Sanz Te NV [semi-sweet]   Wineonline

-Hermanos del Villar Oro de Castilla 2014    ABCON

-Grupo Yllera Vendimia Nocturna 2014   $17   John Hanna

-Robert Vedel Cepas Viejas 2013

-Jose Pariente Cuvee Especial 2014  $32.35  Cottonwood

-Jose Pariente Apasionado 2013  [off-dry]  Cottonwood

-Felix Sanz Vina Cimbron Sauvignon Blanc 2014

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Protos Verdejo 2014  SpainOnly1 Imports

-Marques de Caceres Excellens Sauvignon 2014   Dionysus

-Emina Verdejo 2014

-Sanz Verdejo 2014   Wineonline

-GarciaRevalo Harenna Edicion Limitada 2014

-GarciaRevalo Tres Omios Lias 2014

-Grupo Yllera Vina 65 2014   $13   John Hanna

-Jose Pariente Verdejo 2014  $21.10  Cottonwood

 

The Food: Patria went all out for this one with appropriate food. Since there were only two kinds of white wine everywhere, the food went well with whatever one had on a plate. To begin with, there were Patria's well-known spiced nuts, olives, charcuterie/salumi, Spanish cheeses, octopus carpaccio on toasts, breads, meats. Served platters included flatbreads with anchovies and/or cooked red peppers, some deep fried cheeses, more meats. In a very crowded area there was shrimp paella, and some ribs with rice and truffle oil.

The Downside: we started late as we waited for stragglers for the seminar.

The Upside: for years we have had no wine trade events on Sundays. Suddenly, there were two such events this May. A good time, people seem to be available. Wine is always 24/7.

The Contact Person: felipe@parallel36.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 86.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com