MY 20TH ANNUAL TOP GIFT FOOD BOOKS FOR 2016

MY 20TH ANNUAL SURVEY OF FOOD AND DRINK-RELATED BOOKS

SUITABLE AS HOLIDAY GIFTS FOR THE 2016/17 PARTY PERIOD

 

NOVEMBER 16, 2016

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By Dean Tudor, Ryerson Journalism Professor Emeritus and Gothic Epicures Writing,

www.deantudor.com (World Wine Watch Newsletter).

Blogs: http://gothicepicuresvincuisine.blogspot.com.

           http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com.

          Twitter: @gothicepicures

 

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There are always many new food and wine books out there for people who have picky tastes!! What to choose? I have cast about for material and have come up with a decent selection of materials published in 2016 to satisfy any pocketbook, any host, and any friend or relative. All books and book-like materials that are listed here are RECOMMENDED for gifting, and can be purchased at a discount via Amazon.Ca, Chapters.Indigo.Ca (with free delivery on a total purchase of over $35 or so), or even The Book Depository in Guernsey (free delivery and no GST from the UK).

Price Alert: because of US dollar fluctuations with Canada, all prices will vary.

 

Part One: TOP GIFT IDEAS

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A. Art/travel/restaurant cookbooks might be some of the best books to give a loved one (or to yourself, since you are your own best loved one). Most may cost you an arm and a leg. Books for the coffee table have their place in the gift scheme: just about every such book is only bought as a gift! And are often perused first by the donor (you). Don't let the prices daunt you. Such books are available at a discount from online vendors. Because of the "economy", not too many pricey food and wine books were released last year and this year, and some book reviewers were cut off from receiving many expensive imported books but sent galley proofs, a PDF or a BLAD instead.

 

 

** NUMBER ONE HOLIDAY TOP GIFT BOOK FOR ANY CATEGORY **

 

TASTE OF PERSIA (Artisan, 2016,  392 pages, $50 CAD hardbound)  is by Naomi Duguid, author of  award-winning cookbooks dealing with the world stage such as Burma (2012). Here she travels through Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Iran and Kurdistan, her memoirs coupled with recipes from the old Persian Empire, gateway through the culinary world. As she says, the cuisine reflects a love for the fresh and the tart. Pomegranates, saffron threads, kebabs, barbari breads, pilafs: 125 recipes cover these and more. Typical are preps dealing with "ash" (stews), rose water, filled dumplings, stuffed veggies and halvah. The tome is part regional cuisine and part stories, magnified by her own photography. Studio shots are done by Gentl + Hyers. There's a small section on Georgian wine and Armenian brandy, followed by a glossary, bibliography, and conversion charts. An adventure in flavour and community indeed.

 

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--LE MANOIR AUX QUAT' SAISONS; the story of a modern classic (Bloomsbury Publishing, 2016, 480 pages, $99 CAD hardbound) is by Raymond Blanc, owner-chef of the establishment hotel-restaurant located in Great Milton, Oxford. As the publisher notes, this is a chance to step within the walls for a personal tour by Blanc, season by season. He reveals how every element of the place--from the Japanese garden to the Citronelle bedroom--was brought to life, and takes the reader into the kitchen to show the culinary secrets of this double Michelin-starred restaurant (it has had its stars for the past 26 years). The book features 120 of Le Manoir's celebrated dishes, including ricotta agnolotti, venison grand veneur, blood orange carpaccio, and apple tart Maman Blanc. Illustrated with full-color photography--of the gardens, rooms and recipes--and specially commissioned artwork that captures its magical quality. Totally self-taught, Raymond Blanc is one of Britain's most respected chefs. In 2007 he was awarded an OBE for services to culinary excellence. He is the bestselling author of several books, including Kitchen Secrets.

 

 

--TEN RESTAURANTS THAT CHANGED AMERICA (Liveright-Norton, 2016, 529 pages, $47 CAD hardbound) is by Yale history prof Paul Friedman who writes historical books about taste and spices. Here he continues his writings through a social/cultural  history of different foods and tastes in the USA. These are the ten most influential restaurants that affected dining out in America: Le Pavillon (French cuisine), Chez Panisse, Antoine's (New Orleans regional cuisine), Howard Johnson's (travel and road houses), Schrafft's (urban lunch spots that catered to women), Mama Leone's (Italian), The Mandarin (San Francisco Chinese), Delmonico's (the first, from 1830's), The Four Seasons, and Sylvia's (Harlem, Afro-American food). His text is well-written and approachable, illustrated with vintage photos, menu covers, cartoons, and promotional flyers. No fast/junk food joints. It is easy to criticize choice of restaurants, but I could not replace any; I could just add to with at least  Stars (Jeremiah Tower) and Moosewood (Mollie Katzen). Just add your own three more for a Top 15!!

 

 

--THE SERIAL ENTERTAINER'S PASSION FOR PARTIES (Gibbs Smith, 2016, 192 pages, $42 CAD hardbound) is by designer Steven Stolman. It's his fourth work as the Serial Entertainer, with a home in Palm Beach where most of his entertaining is done. He's got it all arranged by theme: what to do on New Year's Eve, weddings, birthdays, tent parties, goody bags, and galas for high society and red carpets. I am in awe. Most of his menu planning and decor can be trickled down for home use. But not cheaply since there are economies of scale. Oh, and he has a few recipes too. A nifty title for that entertainer friend of yours – just to give him/her some ideas. But beware the glint in the eye...

 

 

 

--TASTE & TECHNIQUE (Ten Speed Press, 2016, 386 pages, $54 CAD hardbound) is by Naomi Pomeroy, chef-owner of Beast and Expatriate in Portland OR. It weighs in at 2.5 kilos, most of which is needed to support the gorgeous photos by Chris Court, although Naomi does her own food styling. These are, in words of the subtitle, "recipes to elevate your home cooking" and your muscles. [I always make photocopies of recipes so I don't have to hoist the cookbook or spill anything on it]. Her tome is arranged by course or food group (app to dessert), with much material on the pantry/larder/ingredients/techniques components. It is mostly French style cuisine, with a detailed approach to mastering balance, acidity, and seasoning. The 140 preps of her fundamentals and building blocks are dedicated to the farming community. A strong gift cookbook.

 

--SOMETHINGTOFOODABOUT (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 240 pages, $39 CAD hardbound) is by Ahmir  "Questlove" Thompson, a hip-hop music producer who attempts to answer the question: can food be art? These essays and narratives here talk about the matter as Thompson explores creativity with innovative chefs. He's got conversations with ten chefs, interviewing them on what makes them creative, how they see the world, and what drives them in their work. No recipes, just the interviews and photos. A good book for the advanced foodie in your life.

 

--OTTAWA COOKS (Figure 1 Publishing, 2016,  232 pages, $37.95 CAD hardbound) is by Anne DesBrisay. It's part of a series of works on local chefs and their food. For the last two years, it was Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver and Calgary. This year it is Ottawa and Edmonton. Here are the signature recipes from the great chefs of the NCC area. There are 41 preps from dining places which include Beckta, Beau's All Natural Brewing, and Supply & Demand. A good gift for anyone from Ottawa.

 

--EDMONTON COOKS (Figure 1 Publishing, 2016, 256 pages, $37.95 CAD hardbound) is by Tina Faiz and Leanne Brown. Here are the signature recipes from the great chefs of the Edmonton area. There are 38 preps from dining places which include Culina, Little Brick and Tzin.  A good gift for anyone from Edmonton.

 

--ARAXI: roots to shoots (Figure 1 Publishing, 2016, 232 pages, $37.95 CAD hardbound) centres around just the one place in Whistler, BC. It's been around for awhile (it it opened in 1981). Currently, James Walt and his two sous-chefs run it (Aaron Heath and Jason Redmond), and they are the authors here. In layout it is pretty well standard, with chapters dealing with apps, mains and desserts – but matched by top-notch photography (worth the price alone). Together the authors tell the story of the restaurant and its bar in an engaging memoir style. Over 100 preps cover their signature dishes over time and their cocktails. A nifty gift for anyone who has visited the place.

 

--CINCIN (Figure 1 Publishing, 2016, 232 pages, $37.95 CAD hardbound) centres around Cin Cin Ristorante in Vancouver, which promotes a wood-fired cucina. Andrew Richardson is the executive chef at CinCin; he opened it in 2012 after a career in Europe and BC. It is Mediterranean cuisine, principally Italian, and arranged as an Italian meal: antipasti, primi, secondi, contorni, and dolci. There are 73 of them plus 19 "basics". It is as you would expect at the restaurant, but tailored for home use. There are wood-grilled Alaska sea scallops, ravioli of fire-cooked squash, and lemon crema with smoked pistachios. A very useful gift for someone with that wood-burning smoker.

 

--DINNER AT THE LONG TABLE (Ten Speed Press, 2016, 2016, 314 pages, $54 CAD hardbound) is by Andrew Tarlow (owner of Diner, in Brooklyn, along with five other restaurants in the NYC area) and Anna Dunn, the bartender for the group. These are preps from the chefs in the Tarlow group, organized by 17 menus that emphasize the long table experience of community dining. There's a men for birthday celebrations, one for each of the seasons, one for the New Year, another for an afternoon around the fire. One of my faves is the "agro & dolce", a lunch for eight that features roasted beets, homemade yogurt, smoothie (for the whey), rosemary and olive focaccia, saffron artichokes, sardines, and cod – plus some sides. It is a posh gift-book, with great photography and a fabric ribbon bookmark (always classy).

 

--JAPAN: from the source (Lonely Planet Books, 2016, 272 pages, $35.99 CAD hardbound) is by Tienlon Ho, Rebecca Milner, and Ippo Nakahara. Each is responsible for a specific geographical area; there are five of these, plus a glossary. These are the best local dishes from restaurant chefs, such as squid croquettes or scallops simmered in miso. And, of course, there are cultural notes about the dish, the region, and the chef.

 

 

--SPAIN: from the source (Lonely Planet Books, 2016, 272 pages, $35.99 CAD hardbound) is by Sally Davies. There are four geographical regions (NE, Central, NW and South) plus a glossary. These are the best local dishes from restaurant chefs, such as mallorquin flatbreads or duck with pears. And, of course, there are cultural notes about the dish, the region, and the chef.

 

 

--APPETITES; a cookbook (Ecco, 2016, 304 pages, $46.50 CAD hardbound) is by Anthony Bourdain, well-known chef and TV personality (e.g., Parts Unknown). This is his FIRST cookbook in ten years, so that kind of makes it an automatic choice for a gift. It's here in this section because it is also pricey. This is home cooking and home entertaining. Since he now has a young daughter he is more "available" at home. In his own words,  he has "morphed into a psychotic, anally retentive, bad-tempered Ina Garten." He is as unapologetic as always, but it is home cooking, probably at its best.

 

 

--SICILY (Hardie Grant Books, 2016, 272 pages, $56.99 CAD hardbound) is by Katie and and Giancarlo Caldesi,  authors of other Italian cookbooks (Amalfi Coast, Venice, Rome) and owners of restaurants and cooking schools. It is part memoir, part cookbook, part travelogue, with descriptions of local cooks. Arranged by course (antipasti through dolci).  Of particular interest to many GF people is the pasta fresca senza glutine. And the rice timbale...A perfect way to cook and eat a bowl of pasta while watching Montalbano, the best detective Sicily can offer up.

 

 

--DISHING UP NEW JERSEY (Storey Publishing, 2016, 278 pages, $28.95 CAD paperbound) is by John Holl. It is one of a series, "Dishing Up", rotating through the 50 states of the USA. Virginia and Maryland have been done, as was Minnesota (see below). The standard is 150 recipes from the Garden State: diners, boardwalks, food trucks, farm stands, restaurants. Such local items appear as disco fries and funnel cakes. Preps are sourced as to origin. Good gift for anyone you know who comes from New Jersey.

 

--DISHING UP MINNESOTA (Storey Publishing, 2016, 281 pages, $28.95 CAD paperbound) is by Teresa Marrone. The "Land of 10,000 Lakes" has 150 recipes to share, from chefs, farmers, state fairs, food trucks, foragers, winemakers, and brewers. Some local items include herring, trout, walleye, as well as morels and chanterelles, wild blueberries and wild game. Preps are sourced as to origin. This is the ninth in the "Dishing Up" series. A nifty gift for that local Minnesotan you know.

 

--THE BREAD BAKER'S APPRENTICE. Rev. Ed., 15th Anniversary Edition (Ten Speed Press, 2001, 2016, 322 pages, $54 CAD hardbound) is by Peter Reinhart, co-founder of Brother Juniper's Bakery. It's a tutorial tome on bread-making, one of the first of its kind. It won a Beard Award and an IACP Cookbook of the Year in the same year. The tutorial covers the first 100 pages; the recipes follow in the latter 200. There have been a few changes and tweaks, and he did update the resources list through 2015. But there are no gluten-free accounts. If you do not have the original, this is a good cookbook.

 

--THE TASHA TUDOR FAMILY COOKBOOK (Skyhorse Publishing, 2016, 168 pages, $29.99 CAD hardbound) is by her grandson Winslow Tudor, who grew up in Vermont next door and now runs the family business. Here are heirloom recipes and memoirs from her Corgi Cottage, featuring Tasha Tudor receipts (as she called them) and watercolour illustrations. He philosophy was "In all things moderation except gardening". So she had a huge veggie garden as a source of food, along with a freezer and a larder – not much meat was eaten. The cookbook is pretty basic, with beef pies, chicken pies, apple dumplings, chocolate puddings, and all manner of local vegetables. It's comfort food to match the comfort watercolours...a good too for her fans and admirers, and a chance to buy some reproductions of her art.

 

 

--POLSKA: new Polish cooking (Quadrille Books, 2016, 256 pages, $50 CAD hardbound) is by Zuza Zak. She says that most Poles prefer to eat at home or at the home of friends and family, rather than at a restaurant. With that in mind, she has developed a tome of traditional Polish food with contemporary twists, such as Polish kimchi with venison. She covers the basics of Polish food cultural history, emphasizing regionalism and the seasons along with Jewish and Gypsy influences. Her Polish pantry contains yellow wax beans, twarog cheese, herrings, Polish sausage, dill, buckwheat, sauerkraut, gherkins and more. It's arranged by course with special sections on beans, kasza, dumplings, and zakaski party foods. There is even a bibliography for further readings.

 

 

--CUBA! (Ten Speed Press, 2016, 250 pages, $40 CAD hardbound) is a travel food book which explores Cuba through its recipes and food stories. Photographers Dan Goldberg and Andrea Kuhn have visited the country off and on over five years. Jody Eddy did the text, and Mollie Hayward did the recipe development. There are 75 preps that are indicative of where Cuba is now in the food hierarchy. It ranges from the bites of pork and mango salsa through the grilled shrimp with sugarcane, fish with mojo, verdado lobster roll, pistachio pistou, and yucca fries – followed by the mains and usual sides and desserts. They have a discussion on the Cuban pantry, which contains conch, chorizo, mojo, plantains, and bijol. Excellent graphic design and layout and sharp travel notes about the food and the kitchens (commercial and family).

 

 

--ISRAEL EATS (Gibbs Smith, 2016, 240 pages, $50 CAD hardbound) is by Steven Rothfeld, who also did the photography. The  work is oversized, but this gives him more space to do a comprehensive survey of Israeli food through five areas: Tel Aviv, North, Jerusalem and Judean Hills,  Centre, and South. These are the innovative cooks of Modern Israel: farmers, chefs, local artisans. They all have stories and recipes to tell. So this is a memoir of travels with many photos of people, places, and 100 attributed dishes and recipes. Here the classic dishes are updated and contemporary new ones created. A tome for the fans of Yotam Ottolenghi.

 

--THE LOVE AND LEMONS COOKBOOK (Viking, 2016, 295 pages, $35 CAD hardbound) is by Jeanine Donofrio of loveandlemons.com. It's subtitle is "an apple-to-zucchini celebration of impromptu cooking", with seasonal produce and savoury flavours. There are 100 vegetarian recipes here, drawn from her website, with vegan and gluten-free options. What is also good about the book is that she has some recipe variation charts for lots of comfort and homey foods.

 

 

--THE LONDON COOKBOOK (Ten Speed Press, 2016, 290 pages, $47 CAD hardbound) is by Aleksandra Crapanzano, with top log rolling from Yotam Ottolenghi ("London's favorite restaurants offering their favorite recipes"), Ruth Rogers ("uncover the city's best-kept culinary secrets"), Claudia Roden ("the best chefs behind it and their glorious dishes"), Daniel Humm ("a wonderful ode to this incredible food, this fascinating city, and its remarkable chefs"), Ruth Reichl ("irresistible portraits of the fascinating people who are changing the way we eat"), Danny Meyer ("winning collection of recipes") and Dan Barber ("deftly captures the pulse and vitality"). 100 eclectic preps from restos, dessert shops, coffee houses, cocktail lounges, and holes-in-the-wall – all adapted for the home kitchen.

 

--PURE ARTISTRY (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 342 pages, $50 CAD hardbound) is by Emily Lael Aumiller, who has come up with a variety of extraordinary special-occasion vegan and gluten-free cakes. These are recipes, techniques and designs from Brooklyn`s Lael Cakes. These cakes are all bright, playful, classic, geometric, and even dramatic. These are high end creations, and there are terrific pictures and technique instructions. The best recipes, to my mind, are the Mexican chocolate cake, the Madagascar vanilla bean cake, and the lemon poppy cake. Lael Cakes use a gluten-free flour blend of millet, tapioca, corn starch, potato starch, and brown rice flours.

 

--FAR AFIELD (Ten Speed Press, 2016, 304 pages, $54 CAD hardbound) is by Shane Mitchell (text) and James Fisher (photos). It is a large format travel title detailing rare food encounters from around the world. Many of the chapters were also published in travel and food magazines, but quite a few are new or redone. There are taro farmers in Hawaii, Icelandic shepherds still using Viking techniques,  gauchos in Uruguay, potato farmers in Peru, and fishermen in Kenya (among others). For each, there are texts, photos, and a handful of relevant recipes. The chapter dealing with tribeswomen of the India subcontinent include preps such as goat stew, raw mango chutney, stuffed peppers, and more. Given its size and price, this can be a pretty good coffee table tome!

 

--FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 336 pages, $45 CAD hardbound) is by Mimi Thorisson, host of some French cooking shows and author of  "A Kitchen in France". It's about an old chateau in the Medoc region (No. 1 rue de Loudenne) that she and her husband Oddur have restored. It is basically meals and moments from a village in the vineyards (or so says the subtitle). There are notes on shopping, renovating and cooking as she meets the local farmers and artisans. Great photos by Oddur, but no wine recommendations. The recipes are sourced from her and the locals, and include such as guinea hen ravioli or pearl onion tarte tatin.

 

 

--THE ADVENTURES OF FAT RICE (Ten Speed Press, 2016, 312 pages, $47 CAD hardbound) is by Abraham Conlon, Adrienne Lo, and Hugh Amand. These are their collected recipes from the newly hot Chicago restaurant Fat Rice, which specializes in food from Macau (Portuguese-influenced SEA food, located an hour ferry ride from Hong Kong). As a trading port with spices, the city did a lot of curries as reflected in this cookbook. There is material about culture and about food plus a huge assortment of preps such as Min Chi (Macanese minced meat hash) or Po Kok Gai (chicken curry with chourico and olives). This is a good contribution to the international cookbook shelf.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Tasting of Beaujolais and Gamay arranged for the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada by Andre Proulx.

The Date and Time:   Saturday, November 26, 2016  Noon to 4PM

The Event: Tasting of Beaujolais and Gamay arranged for the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada by Andre Proulx.

The Venue: The Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Clubhouse

The Target Audience: members of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada – expected audience of 12.

The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wine are available in Ontario.

The Quote/Background: It had taken some time to round up these wines, and we'd like to thank Sopexa for their strong participation.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Jean-Michel Dupre Vieilles Vignes de 1935 Morgon 2014, $19.95 Vintages +440297

-Lucien Lardy Cote du Py Morgon 2014, $24.95 Vintages +468694

-Chateau de Pizay 2014 Morgon TBD France Sopexa

-Henry of Pelham 2015 Gamay $19.95 Niagara At Winery

-Chateau des Charmes 2015 Gamay Droit $17.95 Niagara Vintages +346742

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Jean-Michel Dupre Vieilles Vignes de 1940 Beaujolais Villages 2014, $16.95 Vintages +468710

-Lucien Lardy 2014 Beaujolais Villages Blanc price TBD  Hobbs & Co

-G Descombes 2014 Brouilly TBD France Sopexa

-Oak Bay 2012 Gamay $18.50 BC Okanagan At Winery

-Dominique Piron 2014 Chiroubles TBD France Lifford

-Chateau Thivin 2013 Cote De Brouilly TBD France Sopexa

-Chateau Bonnet 2013 Chenas TBD France Sopexa

-Grange of Prince Edward Select 2013 Gamay $22.95 PEC At Winery

-13th Street 2014 Sandstone Gamay $29.95 Niagara Vintages +130195

-13th Street 2015 Gamay $19.95 Niagara Vintages +177824

-Eastdell 2014 Gamay $13.95 Niagara LCBO +214890 

-Cave Spring Cellars 2014 Gamay $15.95 Niagara LCBO +228569 

-Malivoire 2015 Small Lot $19.95 Niagara At Winery

-Malivoire 2015 Le Coeur $24.95 Niagara At Winery

-Chateau des Charmes 2014 Gamay $14.95 Niagara LCBO +57349 

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Casa Dea 2014 Gamay $15.95 PEC At Winery

-Rezin 2013 Beaujolais TBD France Sopexa

-Georges Duboeuf 2014 Morgon - Cote De Py TBD France Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd

-Grange of Prince Edward 2013 Gamay $16.95 PEC LCBO +615062 

-Malivoire 2014 Gamay $17.95 Niagara Vintages +591313

 

The Food: basic nuts, pretzels, breads, water

The Contact Person:  andre.proulx@bellmedia.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 94.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Time for my annual Christmas Greeting to all my beloved friends and relatives...A Child's Christmas in Toronto

 

A Child's Christmas in Scarborough

 

By Howard Engel  (with apologies to Dylan Thomas)

 

Whenever I remember Christmas as a child in Scarborough Toronto, I can never remember whether the slush was new or old, or whether we lived on the sixth street north of the shopping plaza stoplights and I was seven years old, or whether it was the seventh street and I was six. But still my nose and fingertips tingle at the thought of Christmas in the row-housing, whose names rang their challenging, forlorn ways down to the fast-backed, nerve and gear-wracking lanes of the freeway: Elegance Manors, Tweedingham Mews, Buckingham Back Courts; and I am again a boy among boys, riding our crash-barred, chrome-bedazzling bikes through the supermarket swing doors, grabbing girls' toques and Popsicles in the Mac's Milk and diving with our arms spread to make angels in the snow-banks that the ploughs churned up, plunging our hands to the soggy, stitch-straining armpits and pulling out, as I am doing now, uncles with ham-red hands, scratchy and sizzling-hot in their wife-bought cable-knits and après ski, who through the live-long Christmas afternoons watched the Buffalo Bills and the Los Angeles Rams battling in full colour on a purple field, and sat through Sugar Bowls and Dust Bowls, Cotton and Flannel Bowls until the punch bowl was emptied for the last time and they moved up the queasy, shifting stairs from the rec-room to the hall. And clear as the chlorinated water in the taps, but not so clear as a secret rivulet in the snows that we boys found near the highway that was gone in the spring when the hill was cleared for a condominium, I see Uncle Harry turning away the Salvation Army girl at the door and making us all laugh as she fell on the path on the ice I should have chipped away.

 

Christmas in Scarborough was nothing if it was not families and laughter. But before the compacts and the late-models and the single sports car owned by Aunt Hetty, the divorcee, who bought the Fugs record, before the hoards of uncles and aunts and cousins jousted for a parking spot and the superintendent appeared to ask us to remove a car that had been parked in someone else's spot, there were the presents that smoothed Father's absence due to overtime, and Mother's voice raised in the kitchen downstairs while the supper held in the stove at low heat congealed.

 

And there were disappointments, for as one scavenged among boxes and ribbons and discarded batteries from robots that never worked, and broken strings from suddenly mute Talking Barbies, there had to be one, small, bright and unutterably just right present that lies forever hiding over the rim of memory even now, as I remember, I can see it dancing somewhere in the dark room before sleep, and even in the dreams of Christmas night, when I ran through the vanished fields of our subdivision and climbed and tumbled in the haylofts of the vanished barns, it was there amongst the ghosts of swallows and blue jays and horses -- all gone now, like the words we wrote in last year's snow: Fanny Hill puts out. And, in the moonlight in the dark of the yard unlit by streetlights because of Charlie's air rifle and where no car would desecrate its stillness and the dark velvet of its shadows with the cold incandescence of its lights, I crept close to the sleeping whaleback of the hay-breathing house. I stole past the oaken veneer majesty of my parents' door, and finally warm in the acrylic goose down of my bed above orchards and cockcrow and the sailing ship moon on the skating pond; I slept until dawn sped back the whole farm and the cattle and the soft-eyed horses back to the darkest corner of my room where the sun never shines and socks can sometimes be found amid the slut's wool.

 

And then it was afternoon: and all the cousins, friends of friends, who had been stuffed into spare rooms and cautioned to nap because they had stayed up all night in candy-caned anticipation of catching Santa and delayed for a day his return to the department store throne, were awakened and sent off into the streets. And, waking from a dream in which I chased the blue and white stocking-capped boys, bigger boys from the skating rink at City Hall, glimpsed once on television, I dress in my fur-lined boots, was stuffed into station wagons with protesting uncles who drove as though the football games of all the world were punting in the shadows of the last-minute goalposts. And then we were sliding down the slopes of everlasting snow, everlasting for as long as the machine flew Niagaras of chipped ice over its diesel-throbbing back. And there, in that spinning time, I have my ski-lift ticket stapled to me, as though I were my own receipt for being, and hug for dear day the live cable that pulls me to the top and almost doesn't let go, and then I am poised on last year's skis, and am ready to take my turn. And then I do that. And I do it again, and then I come home for tea, uncles and the barracks of my Christmas soon-to-be-forgotten child's life.

 

And I remember that Aunt Hetty, who was the centre of attention in the kitchen but was not allowed in to help with the gossip, lay stretched out on the Spanish sofa, her soft, brandy-breath keeping Ernie, her latest lover, stupefied. Then Uncle Herbert appeared from the depths of the basement like a drunken porpoise and chased the whole kitchen gaggle with a plastic spring of mistletoe, and came to a bad end with his elbow in the gravy boat. Then Father phoned from Number 41 Station to say that he had been in the eggnog again and that he would be detained, and Mother drank the cooking sherry, and the turkey went unbasted. Then Uncle Frank who had been a stockbroker and then a convict tried again to dance the Windfall of '65 and fell through the picture window. Then the neighbours knocked on the wall and we knocked on the neighbour's wall and then the police came.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Great New Wines tasted in November: some notes

1.Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2014 St. David's Bench Vineyard VQA St David's Bench, +430991, $19.95 Vintages: one of several chardonnays at different price points from Chateau des Charmes. My last vintage tasted was the 2012. Barrel fermented and barrel aged in French oak for almost a year, with lees stirring. 25-year old vines. Expect soft balance with nuances of minerality and some muted tropicality, served up with orchard fruit. Cork closure. Long finish. One of my fave chards, but do not serve overchilled. 495 cases. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

2.Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot Old Vines 2012 VQA NOTL, $21.95 +222372 Vintages: a substantial wine made from plots planted beginning in 1983-1985 and then again in 1992-1996 (all four of their vineyards) – about a third each of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot, coming in at 13.5% ABV after 10 months time in non-new French oak. Expect medium mocha, cedar, vanilla and cassis, but double-decant the bottle before serving. The extra airing will help soften it and give it a longer length from the older vines. Tasted successfully over a number of days. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

3.Chateau Devise d'Ardilley Haut-Medoc 2012, +642512, $29.95 Vintages Dec 10: this popular brand is useful for the mid-Atlantic style for North American Bordeaux drinking. Composed of 45% merlot, 50% cabernet sauvignon, and 5% petit verdot, 13% ABV. Lots of black fruit with a strong wood component, lingering but mild finish. A first course wine? Haut-Medocs are really "good buy" in wines. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

4.Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir Tautavel 2013 Cotes du Roussillon Villages, +272575, $18.95 Vintages Jan 7, 2017: one of the real few values in the opening January release at Vintages. It's a blend typical of the south Rhone – with syrah, grenache, and carignan -  and coming in at 14% ABV. Grand Terroir is Bertrand's range of specific vineyards in the Roussillon region. A third of the wine is aged in French oak barrels for nine months; the rest goes into vats.  Red fruit and black fruit dominate with nuances of aging and wood. Some garrigue too. Best with food. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

5.Ferraton Pere & Fils Samorens Cotes-du-Rhone 2014, +168708, $14.95 Vintages Jan 21/17: a good Rhone blend of grenache (85%), syrah (10%) and cinsault (5%). It's matured in vats as a simple Rhone, at 13.5% ABV. Aromas and texture are basically a grenache papery sensation, with dark berry complexity and modest spicing. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

6.Maynard's Port Encyclopedia, vol. II, $54.95, +464917 LCBO Gift Purchase: this is a great introduction for tasting port, a sort-of tutorial. And very useful for a Christmas gift at that price range. Here are six of the Barão de Vilar's fine Ports for this sampling set. They have been in the business of port for 16 generations; the LBV concept was originated by them in 1954. The six tubes are 60 mL each: 12 ounces in total. Just perfect for 2 – 3 persons, say about $18 each. There are notes on the inside of the box (which looks like a book), and if you want more, there is always Wikipedia. The first three may not seem much like a bargain (white, ruby, LBV 2012) but the latter three are bargains in this context (10-, 20, 30-year old tawnies). There are tasting notes provided (the tawnies regularly get over 90 points just about everywhere) as well as suggested pairings with food. Unfortunately, the food pairings are difficult since the quantity of wine is so small: by the time a couple have tasted and enjoyed the ports, there is little left but the aromas. But it is worth a shot if you go at it alone. One suggestion: the package will cost a bit more, but it may be appropriate to just keep the ports on the dark side by dropping the white port and adding a colheita after the LBV, a sort-of comparison with the tawnies. White ports are about $17 a full bottle, colheitas are twice that. My fave, of course, was the 20-year old tawny, with its complicated nose and dried fruit tones on the palate. Quality/Price rating of the package is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Wines of Spanish Garnacha Tasting Showroom at Boehmer

The Date and Time: Monday November 28, 2016   1PM to 4PM

The Event: Wines of Spanish Garnacha Tasting Showroom

The Venue: Boehmer

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: the wines were nicely arranged by tables of availability: we began with wines without an agent, then wines with agent (consignment, private orders), followed by wines available at the LCBO (General, Vintages).

The Quote/Background: Garnacha is a rising star in Spanish exports (there are 70,000 hectares planted of red, 2300 of white), and this is its third marketing event of the year in Ontario. The success of Monasterio de La Vinas in Ontario is compelling, not only for its modest pricing but also for its quality and aging.

The Wines: There were two dozen wines to try: red, white and rose. My best buy was the Beso de Vino at under $10.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Solar de Urbezo Ecologico Old Vines Garnacha 2015 Carinena 2015 TBD   No Agent

-Celler Batea Tipicitat Garnacha 2012 Terra Alta (with 15% carignan) TBD   No Agent

-Las Morada de San Martin Las Luces Garnacha 2008 Vinos de Madrid TBD   No Agent

-Vinas del Vero Secastilla Old Vines Garnacha 2013 Somonyano, $40

-Santo Cristo Legado del Moncayo Old Vines Garnacha 2015 Campo de Borja, $13

-Aragonesas Fagus Seleccion Especial Old Vines Garnacha 2013 Campo de Borja, $25 - $30

-San Alejandro Las Rocas Old Vines Garnacha 2013 Calatayud, $21 

-Ignacio Marin Old Vines Garnacha 2010 Carinena,  $12.75 Vintages

-Grandes Vinos y Vinedos Monasterio de Las Vinas San Jose de Aguaron Reserva Old Vines Garnacha 2008 Carinena, $14.95  Vintages

-Grandes Vinos y Vinedos Monasterio de Las Vinas Gran Reserva Old Vines Garnacha 2007 Carinena, $17.95 Vintages

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Ecovitres Mesie Garnacha White 2013 Terra Alta  TBD   No Agent

-Cellers Unio Perlat Garnacha 2014 Montsant TBD   No Agent

-Las Morada de San Martin Senda Garnacha 2012 Vinos de Madrid TBD   No Agent

-Altavins Ilercavonia Garnacha White 2015 Terra Alta TBD   No Agent

-Las Morada de San Martin Initio Garnacha 2010 Vinos de Madrid TBD   No Agent

-Virgen de la Sierra Cruz de Piedra Seleccion Especial Garnacha 2014 Calatayud, $17.95

-Paniza Garnacha 2012 Carinena, $18.95

-Pablo Menguante 2012 Carinena, $16.95 Vintages

-Grandes Vinos y Vinedos Beso De Vino Old Vines Garnacha 2014 Carinena, $9.95 LCBO

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cellers Unio Clos Dalian Garnacha White 2015 Terra Alta TBD   No Agent

-Celler Batea Vall Major Garnacha White 2015 Terra Alta TBD   No Agent

-Botera Vila Closa Garnacha White 2015 Terra Alta

-Paniza Garnacha Rose 2014 Carinena, $16

-San Valero Castillo de Monseran Garnacha 2015 Carinena, $9.95 LCBO

 

The Food: smoked meats and fish, apple packets, chocolate barks, Manchego cheese, breads and fruit.

The Downside: ballpoint pens handed out with the catalogue did not work well on the the glossiness of the catalogue, so I switched to feltipped pens. Also, the yellow ink used for the name of the wine was very difficult to read in the shadowy light.

The Upside: a chance to capture the leading edges in garnacha from Spain.

The Contact Person: frederique.charron@sopexa.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Maynard's Port Encyclopedia, vol. II, $54.95, +464917 LCBO Gift Purchase:

Maynard's Port Encyclopedia, vol. II, $54.95, +464917 LCBO Gift Purchase: this is a great introduction for tasting port, a sort-of tutorial. And very useful for a Christmas gift at that price range. Here are six of the Barão de Vilar's fine Ports for this sampling set. They have been in the business of port for 16 generations; the LBV concept was originated by them in 1954. The six tubes are 60 mL each: 12 ounces in total. Just perfect for 2 – 3 persons, say about $18 each. There are notes on the inside of the box (which looks like a book), and if you want more, there is always Wikipedia. The first three may not seem much like a bargain (white, ruby, LBV 2012) but the latter three are bargains in this context (10-, 20, 30-year old tawnies). There are tasting notes provided (the tawnies regularly get over 90 points just about everywhere) as well as suggested pairings with food. Unfortunately, the food pairings are difficult since the quantity of wine is so small: by the time a couple have tasted and enjoyed the ports, there is little left but the aromas. But it is worth a shot if you go at it alone. One suggestion: the package will cost a bit more, but it may be appropriate to just keep the ports on the dark side by dropping the white port and adding a colheita after the LBV, a sort-of comparison with the tawnies. White ports are about $17 a full bottle, colheitas are twice that. My fave, of course, was the 20-year old tawny, with its complicated nose. nuttiness, and dried fruit tones on the palate. Quality/Price rating of the package is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Client Celebration of Presidential Gourmet Catering with the Royal Ontario Museum.

The Date and Time: Wednesday, November 23, 2016  6PM to 9 PM

The Event: Client Celebration of Presidential Gourmet Catering with the Royal Ontario Museum.

The Venue: ROM, Age of Dinosaurs Gallery

The Target Audience: food and wine event planners and media.

The Availability/Catalogue:

The Quote/Background: PG Catering does corporate events, weddings, home and office parties, with about 30 venues that they are associates (including the Ontario Science Centre, the ROM, Roy Thomson Hall, et al). They have a wide-range of sustainable menus for all their events. Some of what they can do were on display tonight. Their new Exec Chef Jay Suppiah provided a new menu, which began with hors d'oeuvre in motion followed by food stations and a dessert display table. This food preview showcase was complemented by a good upscale range of Canadian wines. For more details see www.presidentialgourmet.ca

The Wines: These were pretty impressive wines for a media/preview gathering.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut Rose NV  VQA

-Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2013 VQA

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Thirty Bench Riesling Winemakers Blend 2015 VQA

-Mission Hill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 BCVQA

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-G. Marquis The Silver Line Pinot Noir 2015 VQA

 

The Food: this is what we were here for...THE MENU !!

 

"Hors d'oeuvre in Motion"

 

-Pork Belly Mini Sliders (braised pork belly and pineapple slaw sandwiched between Polynesian style pineapple buns: a meal in themselves!)

-Portobello Poke (Portobello mushroom on top of a taro chip with togarashi cream)

-Huili Huili Chicken (chicken, ginger, soy, garlic, mustard and sherry

served in a crispy spice wonton taco: my absolutely fave dishes of the night)

-Shrimp 'n' Grits (Creole spice, coffee and micro cilantro served on a spoon: grits were more like polenta)

 

Food Stations

 

-Japanese Sujuki Market (chicken katsu, sushi rice, scallions, sesame seeds, nori

Vegetarian option: braised Japanese eggplant) – took some time to build, so there was a line-up.

-Maple-Candied Muskoka Trout (smoked cucumber, citrus segments, fennel slaw, cocoa-vanilla vinaigrette: great flavours_

-Deconstructed Beef Wellington (truffle jus, King Oyster mushroom, roasted Brussels sprouts: I'm not a fan of beef or of Brussels sprouts, but this won me over)

 

Dessert Display (I try to stay away from sugar, but could not resist the red velvet and the verrine. My wife Ann helped me out on this one.)

 

-Petit Gateau

-Vanilla Yogurt Mousse with Maple Fudge and Strawberry Gelee Center

-Dark Chocolate Mousse with Cherry Ganache Center

-Matcha Tea Mousse with Yuzu Mousse Center

-Carrot-Walnut Cake with Buttermilk Glaze

-Red Velvet Cake Pops with Cream Cheese Icing

-Orange Chocolate Layer Cake

-Verrine (buttermilk panna cotta, plum gelee, almond tuile)

-Tartelettes (citrus pate sucree, orange pastry cream, fresh fruit)

-Mendiant (chocolate pate sucree, gianduja ganache, toasted pecan, candied lemon peel)

-Eclaire (butterscotch pastry cream with glazed marzipan)

-Macarons, Chocolate and Spekuloos

-Chocolate Mint Truffle

-Guava Pate de Fruit

-Dark Chocolate Hazelnut Bon Bon

-Passion Fruit Marshmallow

-Montelimar Square

The Downside: I wished I had a larger appetite and could eat some of the desserts.

The Upside: a chance to also see the famed Dale Chihuly glass exhibit of 11 installations.

The Contact Person: ruth@thesirengroup.com; rick@presidentialgourmet.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 94.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: A Tasting of Wines from Italy: 21ST Anniversary

The Date and Time: Monday, October 31, 2016  9:30AM – 4PM  [WRITTEN NOVEMBER 10]

The Event: A Tasting of Wines from Italy: 21 years.

The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall Lobbies

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: The catalogue was for all of Canada, so Vancouver and Calgary along with Montreal were also included. Not all wines were offered for tasting in all locations, so we had to pay attention to the small print as to which wine was where. We had to stay sober as well...Otherwise, there was detail on grape varieties and names of agents and others. Prices were lacking, but we just had to ask. Of course, not everybody knew their own prices – which was a marketing shame...Most wines were seemingly private orders, or perhaps consignment and a few in Vintages. Some wines would be available next year (2017) at the LCBO.

The Quote/Background: Nobody had a firm grip on the numbers of different wines. Some wines never showed up, others were substituted, some were completely new, and vintages varied. Once again, many tables could not pin down even an estimated price. There were many tables of wines with wineries looking for an agent. I could not in all good conscience taste and review these when there were so many other wines in the room that are already here in Ontario and needed to be tasted.

The Wines: I did not taste every wine – WHO COULD IN FOUR HOURS ??? I concentrated only on the oldest reds I could find.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche dell'annunziata 2011, $75 Profile

-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche dell'annunziata 2010 n/a Profile

-Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche dell'annunziata 2008 $175 Profile

-Bersano Barolo Riserva 2007, $74  Profile

-Camperchi Toscana IGT Sangiovese 2008, $30  United Stars Corp

-Casetta Flli Barolo Riserva La Serra 2010, $60   Signature

-Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011, $75   Colio Estate

-Gerardo Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Il Bosco 2010, $73.95  Profile

-Gussalli Beretta Franciacorta Cuvee 7 Lo Sparviere, $29.95  Eurovintage

-Cantine Petrosino Terre Siciliane IGP Saluq Shiraz 2012, 7.50E  AMV-Whiz Trading

-Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva di Fizzano 2013, $35.95  Profile

-San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013, $38  Groupe Soleil

-Statti Mantonico IGT Calabria Bianco 2014, $20 Majestic

-Tenute Piccini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Fattoria di Valiano 2010, $29  Wine Lovers

-Togni Rocca dei Forti Cuvee Asti, $12.95   Dionysus

-Torraccia di Presura Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2010, $69  The Vine Agency

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Barone Mantalto Viognier Collezione di Familiglia 2015 Terre Siciliane, +435479, $15.95 Feb 4/17 Vintages

-Cusumano Alta Mora Etna Bianco 2015, $22.95  Family Wine Merchants

-Marchesi Mazzei ChiantiClassico GranSelezione Castello Fonterutoli 2011,$54.95 Profile

-Monte del Fra Bianco di Custoza Ca del Magro 2014, $25  Signature

-Cantine Petrosino Terre Siciliane IGP Brezza Mediterranea 2015, 4.90E AMV-Whiz Trading

-Statti Greco IGT Calabria Bianco 2015, $17 Majestic

-Togni Gran Casale Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2013, $21  Dionysus

-Togni Casalfarneto Anfora Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2015, $14.95 Dionysus

-Torrevento Matervitae Fiano Puglia 2015, $14.95  Majestic

-Ca'Tullio Friuli Aquileia Viola Traminer Aromatico 2015, $18  Signature

-Fazio Erice Pietrasacra 2010 Nero d'Avola, $55.95   Profile

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Amastuola Salento IGP Bianco 2015, $16  Majestic

-Cusumano Sicilia Shamaris 2015, $14.95   Family Wine Merchants

-Cantine Ermes Sicilia IGT Tenute Orestiadi Ludovico 2009, $19.95  Charton Hobbs

-Feudo Disisa IGT Terre Siciliane Tornamira 2012, $35   Vintage Trade

-Monteci Lugana 2015, $24.95  The Case for Wine

-Statti Lamezia Bianco 2015, $16 Majestic

 

The Food: Cibo Wine Bar did the food very well: some cheeses, meat platters, dried fruit, breads, pasta, olives, arancini, creamy gorgonzola, pickles.

The Downside: for the first time ever I missed the seminar, with John Szabo and some great wines from Puglia.

The Upside: I had a chance to taste some fine wines in the walkabout.

The Contact Person: p.titone@ice.it

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Tasting hosted by Rodolfo Opi Sadler, winemaker at Mascota Vineyards (Mendoza, Argentina)

The Date and Time: Wednesday, October 26, 2016   Noon to 2PM

The Event: Tasting hosted by Rodolfo Opi Sadler, winemaker at Mascota Vineyards (Mendoza, Argentina)

The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Kitchen, Scrivener Square

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: three wines are at the LCBO, as noted below.

The Quote/Background: "Opi" spoke to the wines as we tasted them. Most of the wines are aged in all French barrels, with a few in US and French oak. The winery was proclaimed "Argentine Wine Producer of the Year 2014" by the IWSC. Not tasted were the La Mascota Cabernet Franc and Shiraz (lined price at $13.95).

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, +292110 LCBO   14%ABV

-Mascota Big Bat Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, $70   14%  TBD

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Mascota Extra Brut Trad. Meth. 2013, $19.95 [100% pinot noir]   TBD

-Mascota Opi Chardonnay 2015, $10.95  13.5%ABV TBD

-Gran Mascota Malbec 2012, $23.95  +443333  15%ABV

-Mascota Unanime 2011, $29.95 +466938  60%CabSauv/25Malbec/15CabFr

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Mascota Malbec 2014, $13.95   TBD  14%ABV

 

The Food: appetizer platters of parilla (beef ribs, steak, sausage, mango salsa), white sandwiches, empanadas de carne.

The Downside: the winemaker was tied up in traffic, so we had a red and a white wine and the food first, followed by his arrival and discussion.

The Upside: a chance to pair Argentine food with Argentine wine.

The Contact Person: catherine@catchcom.ca; joyce.phillips-nitsos@mondiaalliance.ca; marika.synnett@mondiaalliance.ca.

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for November 26, 2016.

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for  November 26, 2016.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com

 

THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --

 

UNDER $20 --

Chateau Roc de Levraut 2014 Bordeaux Superieur, +468280, $13.95,  13.% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92.

Cathedral Cellars Chardonnay 2014 WO Western Cape, +328559, $16.95,13.5 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.

 

OVER $20 --

Weinert Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Mendoza, +656363, $25.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 94

Balbas Reserva 2005 Ribera del Duero, +85183, $22.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92

 

20 under $20

=========

R-Montebuena Cuvee KPF 2014 Rioja, +211029, $15.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Koyle Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Colchagua Valley, +256073, $19.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.

R-Rotllan Torra 2011 Priorat, +267989, $19.95, 14.1% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Castano Solanera Vinas Viejas 2013 Yecla, +276162, $17.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90+

R-Robert Oatley Signature Series Shiraz 2014, +327387, $19.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.

W-Tenuta Cocci Grifoni Colle Vecchio Offida Pecorino 2013, +414011, $16.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.

R-Xavier 100% Cotes du Rhone 2012, +437079, $16.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.

W-Famille Ternynck Sur Calcaire Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay 2015, +470930,  $17.95, 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Quinta de Curvos Afectus Alvarinho 2015 Vinho Verde,+471276, $17.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R-Borsao Bole 2013 Campo de Borja, +471565, $15.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.

W-Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Pinot Gris 2014 Alsace, $17.95, +641597, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89+

R-Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir La Clape Syrah/Carignan/Mourvedre 2013, +370262, $18.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay 2014 VQA Beamsville Bench, +256552, $18.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.

R-Peninsula Ridge Beal Vineyard reserve Merlot 2015 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +257311, $19.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Columbia CrestH3 Les Chevaux Red Blend 2012, +287425, $19.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Santa Julia Magna 2014 Mendoza, +93799, $15.95, 13.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88+

R-Chateau Peyros Vieilles Vignes Madiran 2011, +234997, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

 

20 over $20

=========

R-Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2013, +24190, $84.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88.

R-Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Stag's Leap District Napa, +45476, $139.95, 15.3% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Domaines Schlumberger Kessler Riesling Alsace, +61176, $27.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 BCVQA Okanagan, +73098, $44.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Chateau Griviere 2011 Medoc, +469783, $23.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88.

R-Bodegas LAN Crianza 2012 Rioja, +424531, $29.95 MAGNUM, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Wynn's Coonawarra Estate Shiraz  2012, +433060, $22.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Rodney Strong Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2014, +465724, $29.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Cotes de Lechet Chablis 1er Cru 2003, +470435,  $51.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90.

R-M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem 2014 MAGNUM, +474957, $55.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Baron de Ley Reserva 2010 Rioja, +958868, $21.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89+

R-Ruffino Modus 2013 IGT Toscana, +412379, $69.95 MAGNUM, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Michele Castellani CinqueStelle Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012, +75127, $56.95, 15.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R-Donna Olimpia 1898 2013 Bolgheri, +163857, $32.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88.

R-Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012, +356220,  $49.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88.

R-Ceppaiano Violetta 2010 IGT Toscana, +474627, $22.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino 2009, +474734, $49.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88.

R-Muriel Gran Reserva 2007 Rioja, +984187, $29.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88.

R-Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2010 VQA Short hills Bench, +616433m 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

W-Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Riesling 2013 VQA Short Hills Bench, +643361, $24.95, 11% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Stratus Petit Verdot 2012 VAQ Niagara-On-The-Lake, +142638, $38.20, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R-Versado Reserva Ancient Malbec 2012 Mendoza, $59.95, 14.1% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.

W-2027 Cellars Aberdeen Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2013, +472241, $30, % ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Tawse Estate Chardonnay 2012 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, +344804, $38.40, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

 

The Event: Discover the Somewhereness Wines of Ontario

The Date and Time: Monday, October 24, 2016  1:30PM – 5 PM

The Event: Discover the Somewhereness Wines of Ontario

The Venue: St. James Cathedral Centre

The Target Audience: wine media and trade

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the LCBO or at the winery.

The Quote/Background: There are now 12 members of Somewhereness, mostly in Niagara, and they subscribe to a sense of place (the Lake Ontario effect), the ancient soils, the quality of the premium wines, and a sens of stewardship towards the conditioning of the earth. They grow site-specific wines in small lots. All the wineries are family owned. It began in 2007 with five wineries. John Szabo led a seminar of some 12 Niagara wines, a mix of contemporary and older vintages for Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir. These have been folded in below.

The Wines: I did not taste all the wines. All prices are retail; all wines are VQA.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Bachelder Niagara Wismer Wingfield #1 Chardonnay Twenty Mile Bench 2013, $44.95

-Bachelder Niagara Wismer Foxcroft #2 Chardonnay Twenty Mile Bench 2013, $44.95

-Cave Spring Cellars Blanc de Blancs CSV 2008 Beamsville Bench, $39.95

-Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV 2014 Beamsville Bench, $29.95

-Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV 2010 Beamsville Bench [Winery Library]

-Charles Baker Riesling Picone Vineyard 2013 Vinemount Ridge, $35

-Domaine Queylus Pinot Noir Reserve 2013 Niagara Peninsula, $45

-Domaine Queylus Pinot Noir La Grande Reserve 2013 Niagara Peninsula, $60

-Flat Rock Nadja's Vineyard Riesling Twenty Mile Bench 2009 [Winery library]

-Flat Rock Riddled Traditional Method Sparkling Twenty Mile Bench 2010, $29.95

-Flat Rock The Rusty Shed Chardonnay Twenty Mile Bench 2012, $24.95

-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay Beamsville Bench 2013, $29.75

-Hidden Bench Estate Nuit Blanche Beamsville Bench 2014, $40

-Malivoire Bisous NV Brut Beamsville Bench, $29.95

-Norman Hardie Cuvee de Roche 2014 VQA Ontario [blend of Niagara and PEC]  Winery

-Norman Hardie Chardonnay Niagara Peninsula 2009  [winery library]

-Southbrook Estate Grown Small Lot Wild Ferment Chardonnay Four Mile Creek 2012, $34.95

-Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay Four Mile Creek 2013, $49.95

-Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay Four Mile Creek 2009, [winery library]

-Southbrook Estate Grown Small Lot Witness Block Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc Four Mile Creek 2013, $39.95

-Stratus White NOTL 2013, $38

-Stratus Red NOTL 2012, $44

-Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard Riesling Vinemount Ridge 2014, $23.95

-Tawse Limestone Ridge Sparkling Riesling 2014 Twenty Mile Bench, $19.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-13th Street Winery Cuvee Rose NV Niagara, $27.95

-13th Street Winery Viognier 2015 Niagara, $19.95

-Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay Mineralite 2013, $44.95

-Bachelder Niagara Lowrey Pinot Noir St. David's Bench 2013, $44.95 

-Bachelder Niagara Wismer Parke Pinot Noir Twenty Mile Bench 2014, $34.95 

-Bachelder Niagara Parfum Pinot Noir 2014, $26.10 

-Cave Spring Cellars Chardonnay CSV 2013 Beamsville Bench, $29.95

-Cave Spring Cellars Pinot Noir Estate 2014 Beamsville Bench, $39.95

-Charles Baker Riesling Ivan Vineyard 2015 Twenty Mile Bench, $27

-Domaine Queylus Merlot Cabernet Franc La Grande Reserve 2012 Niagara Peninsula, $49.95

-Flat Rock Gravity Pinot Noir Twenty Mile Bench 2012, $29.95

-Malivoire Mottiar Pinot Noir Beamsville Bench 2013, $34.95

-Malivoire Small Lot Pinot Noir Beamsville Bench 2014, $29.95

-Norman Hardie Chardonnay Niagara Peninsula 2014, $39

 

The Food: three dense cheeses from Monforte (cow and goat), a variety of local cheeses from the Cheese Boutique, terrific sliced salmon from the Fat Chance Cold Smoked Salmon Company, sliced bread from de le terrs bakery, and wonderful salumi from Paganelli (boar sausage, local prosciutto, etc.)

The Downside: the seminar went on too long (it ran over by an hour) and I had to leave early to catch the trade show.

The Upside: great to keep in touch with some of the leading wines of Ontario.

The Contact Person: trisha@dorianandassociates.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com