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Sunday, March 12, 2017

The Event: New Gems and Old Favourites from Northern Italy

The Date and Time: Thursday, February 9, 2017  11AM to 3PM
The Event: New Gems and Old Favourites from Northern Italy
The Venue: Chef's House, George Brown College
The Target Audience: wine trade, media
The Availability/Catalogue: There were four wines at the seminar and about a dozen more for just the trade. The agents were there to sample wines and perhaps sign up an Italian winery to represent. Reps from the wineries had just arrived from Miami and warmer weather.
The Quote/Background: We began with a short talk on the traceability and regulation of Italian DOC wines from Federdoc, and then moved on to the seminar moderated by Michael Fagan. About 40 attended the seminar and the panel presentation. None of the wines are currently in the Ontario marketplace. The Friuli region is in the process of regularizing its name on the label.
The Wines: Hey, I tried every wine!
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Villa Mattielli San Giacomo Valpolicella Ripasso DOC 2014 $25–30 USD retail
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Scusa Ribolla Gialla Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC 2015
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Casa Vinicola Antonutti Pinot Grigio Friuli Grave DOC 2015, $18-29 USD retail
-La Scusa Friulano Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC 2015
 
The Food: a light buffet lunch included roast pork loin with mushroom sauce and roasted roots of potatoes, carrots and onions. There was also a vegetarian lasagne and a green salad followed by a dessert.
The Downside: I thought that there would be more interplay with the audience, especially since there were only 4 wines.
The Upside: it was good to sit and break bread with some agents, something we don't normally do.
The Contact Person: p.titone@ice.it
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, March 9, 2017

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1.A SPOT AT THE BAR (Hardie Grant, 2016, 224 pages, ISBN 978-174379131-8, $29.99 USD hardbound) is by Michael Madrusan and Zara Young who together run The Everleigh Bar in Melbourne. This is "the art of good drinking in three hundred recipes". The stylish book  covers aperitif hour, beer, wine, savoury drinks, digestifs, nightcaps, and various specialties. There is also memoir material about bar life in Melbourne and about the drinks themselves. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: drinkers looking for a bar book.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: palma fizz; rumble; blue collar cocktail; andy shandy; drowsy girl; fog cutter; diamond fizz; Toronto [rye & fernet-branca]
The downside to this book: a bit too much about Australia, although it is an Australian book.
The upside to this book: a welcome addition to bar literature.
Quality/Price Rating: 86
 
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH --

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH --
 
1.Luigi Bosca Malbec 2013 Single Vineyard Lujan de Cuyo +74922 Vintages, $21.95: aged in new French oak for 14 months with ML fermentation. Highly structured but with red fruit and mocha tones, not light (14% ABV. Oak aging adds some toastiness.
Better with food such as heavy meats. Quality/Price rating is 99 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
2.Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot Estate 2012 VQA Short Hills Bench, +395855 Vintages, $24.95: both cabernet franc and sauvignon are used in this Bordeaux-styled blend which comes across as a mid-Atlantic version of Cali/Bordeaux New World and Old World. It is still in its youth at 4 years of age, and it would be a shame to consume it this young. You could do what I did: open it and drink it over a couple of weeks, exposing it to air gently or speeding up the process by double-triple decanting. You will get several different wines out of one bottle over the course of time. Extended maceration in stainless, followed by French and US oak (40% new) for 18 months. Currently, you could match it with heavy meats. 14% ABV on label. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
3.Gerard Bertrand Gris Blanc 2015 IGP Pays d'Oc +409870 March 18 Vintages, $16.95: from between the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees, and from two different grenache varieties (noir and gris). Red fruit all the way, with very pale pink and grey colours. It looks different when viewed from different angles. Aromas of melons are fresh, just almost perfect for lazy summer drinking, so you might want to load up. Twist top. 13% ABV.
Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
4.Gerard Bertrand Terroir Languedoc Red 2013 +413237 March 18 Vintages, $16.95: a blend of syrah and grenache, promising both black fruit and red fruit tones at an affordable price. Local garrigue is apparent, complemented by some fennel. Part of the wine is transferred over to oak barrels where it is aged for roughly 10 months. 13.5% ABV.
Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
5.Fess Parker Pinot Noir 2013 Sta. Rita Hills +382333 March 18 Vintages, $33.95: lots of bright red fruit such as raspberries, with spicy-toast woodsy points and some vanilla and pepper. From three different vineyards in the region, finishing off at 12 months in 1/3 new French oak. A whopping 14.2% ABV may still need to be tamed despite its quaffability. Juicy-jammy California wine all the way. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
6.Southbrook Triomphe Pinot Noir 2015 VQA Niagara Peninsula [Organic], +621605, $29.95 Winery only: natural fermentation with 40% whole clusters, aged 9 months in large French oak (12% new oak), 12.5% ABV. It's what a natural pinot noir should be: red fruit dominated by cherries, some forest floor, and a seam of acidity in the finish for food. At a recent cool climate pinot noir tasting with a group that had been tasting wine together for 30 years, I made it a Mystery Wine (the other 10 wines had already been determined for months), and it went up against Burgundy (half the wines), Oregon, New Zealand, and Ontario. In the final vote, seven of the tasters – including me – ranked it in their top three wines; it was exceeded only by a pair of $100 Burgundies. I thought it needed more time, but obviously others were ready to drink it now. Vegan- and vegetarian-friendly. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
7.La Crema Pinot Noir Monterey 2014, $26.95 Vintages June 24 or TBD: this wine is cool climate from the coast coolness in the evening and the early morning, and with fruit crafted by an experienced Canadian winemaker who knows cool climate. Expect a combo of black cherry-berry, underbrush and earth, balanced but low oaking, some mocha, fennel spices. Very savoury -- I had it with haggis; it went very well. 100% French oak, 17% being new. Not a heavy pinot noir (only eight months in barrel), unlike many others from California. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
8.La Crema Chardonnay Monterey 2015, +158683 Vintages June 24 or TBD $26.95: this is a Vintages re-order of the Monterey appellation Chardonnay from La Crema, but for the later 2015 harvest. Last time the release in Ontario was at the same price, when the CAD was better. So it becomes more of a bargain now. It is pretty much a cool climate chardonnay and fills a niche in the California Chardonnay landscape. It's angularity stresses brightness in the orchard fruit, with a nice lemony finish and refreshing pineapple acidity. Most of it was aged for 5 months in primarily French oak (20% new), the balance in stainless; the 13.5% ABV is down a bit from the 2013. Nuances of light oaking show with a reduced vanilla feel but still with a full body. A food wine, not a sipper (fish, first course, chicken), Good price. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
9.Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay 2015 California, +369686 Vintages Essentials $19.95: a killer wine winner since 1982, the KJC is at Vintages Essentials, although given that the brand is sixth in US sales by dollar values (sells for $12.10USD on average) and should be selling equally well here, it ought to be a General List wine. It's always been barrel-fermented in part and exploits a creamy palate and finish. All chardonnay from Monterey (56%), Santa Barbara (27%), Mendocino (15%) and Sonoma (2%) done up sur lie and aged seven months in 44% French and 53% US oak. Good integration of off-dry tropical flavours on the mid-palate with vanilla and cream, followed by slight oak nuances in the finish. A key example of a winemaker's wine blend: consistent from year to year. With a plastic cork there is no need to store – drink as you buy. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, March 5, 2017

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 
...all reflect a boom in cookbook publishing. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
 
20.THE NAKED COOKBOOK (Ten Speed Press, 2015, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-994-3, $24.99 USD hard/softbound) is by Tess Ward. It was originally published in the UK by Quadrille, and this is the North American printing. Ward is a London-based food blogger who has worked at Ricer Cottage and The Ritz. The preps are for you to eat: raw, pure, stripped, bare, nude, clean and thus detox. Even down to the physical book itself (just boards for covers, no spine at all (just stitching) – to emphasize how serious it all is. Clean eating will give you more energy. Help you to lose weight, and ultimately purify (detox) your body. It is a good lifestyle with uncomplicated and simple recipes. Her "naked" yogurts include such as basil yogurt dressing, cumin yogurt dressing, and cilantro yogurt dressing. He naked dips include goat milk ricotta, wasabi crème fraiche, and a cucumber-radish-goat cheese raita. Along with sauces, they add a huge variety of flavours to basic everyday food such as molasses and ginger pork balls with bok choy, or avocado boats with peas-feta-mint. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Lots of pantry advice. Small typeface is used for the index. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
21.THE SOUTH OF FRANCE COOKBOOK (Weldon Owen, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-68188-053-2, $35 USD hardbound) is by Nina Parker, a London-based chef and caterer. It was originally published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson in the UK in 2014; this is the North American printing. It is arranged by meal, from breakfast through lunch, teatime, canapes, dinner and dessert. The subtitle confines it by saying "recipes and stories from St. Tropez", although the dishes are evocative of the region (eg, "le sticky bun", apricot and almond jam, or provencal tomatoes). The stories/memoirs are hers of course. But while the picture of the ruby red roasted duck La Verdoyante (from the nearby restaurant in Gassin) is phenomenal, there are also many pix of just her in various settings.
Preparations have their ingredients listed mostly in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
22.PICNIC IN PROVENCE (Back Bay Books – Little, Brown and Co., 2015, 2016, 368 pages, $15.99 USD soft covers) is by Elizabeth Bard, a US journalist based in Provence. She had previously written "Lunch in Paris", and continues the French theme of memoirs + recipes with this volume about Provence. This is a memoir about love and marriage and family, moving from Paris to Provence and setting up an artisanal ice cream shop. Local recipes are included (and indexed), such as broiled whole sea bass with lemon and herbs, or salade composee au foie de volaille. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
 
23.VARIETAL WINES (Hardie Grant, 2015, 308 pages, ISBN 978-1-74270860-7, $44.95 CAD hardbound) is by Oz wine critic James Halliday who has been at it for 45 years. He has written or contributed to more than 70 books on wine. This book was originally published in 2004, profiling 84 varieties of grapevines grown in Australia. Since that time, more have been added to the viticulture in Oz, and the book's coverage has grown to 130 varietal wines. Every varietal in Oz still remains set in an international context here. These are the classic (cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, chardonnay, riesling), second tier, and alternative varieties currently grown in Australia. He's got histories for all, along with diversity of regional styles, the best producers, and production stats from Oz and the ROW. Details of the lesser 95 red and white varieties are also given, although a case could be made for also separating these "lesser"  into two tiers by at least name recognition. Aucerot? Biancone? In the same listing as Pedro Ximenez? As Silvaner? Or Prosecco? The public's fancy seems to dominate, as Prosecco will surely ascend in the rankings, which is how Pinot Grigio (a second tier white if there ever was one) got to be a "classic" of the same ranking as chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. And whatever happened to Malbec? There is not a mention of it in his book, yet it has been grown in Australia for decades. Just check out www.vinodiversity.com/malbec.html#inoz
Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
 
24.VEGETABLES; the essential reference (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 516 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-71528-8, $35 USD hardbound) comes from the editors of Eating Well magazine. I was once a charter subscriber while the magazine was part of the Canadian cooking landscape situated in Vermont. It is now owned by Meredith Corporation, home of Better Homes and Gardens, Family Circle, Martha Stewart Living, and many others dealing with home life. Most of the preps here have appeared in Eating Well, and contributors are noted. You could try Bruce Aidells' Bavarian leek and cabbage soup or pork & shrimp stuffed eggplant, Lidia Bastianich's braised greens and cannellini bean panini, or Mario Batali's penne alla primavera. Alice Waters contributes a sauteed Brussels sprouts with bacon and onions, while Deborah Madison encourages us with roasted sweet potato wedges. Even Toronto's own Naomi Duguid is here (fish sauce with chiles). Even an impressive book such as this one required some log rolling. There are 101 veggies, arranged A – Z with 200 recipes (some use meat too, so the book is not all vegetarian). There are basic descriptions, cooking technique styles, nutritional data, colour photos and recipes for each. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There are special interest indexes for gluten-free, heart-healthy, and vegan. There is even a short section on how to read an Eating Well recipe! Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
25.BROOKS HEADLEY'S FANCY DESSERTS (W.W.Norton, 2014, 2016, 273 pages, ISBN 978-0-393-35238-2, $24.95 USD paperbound) is by Brooks Headley, former executive chef at Del Posto now chef-owner of Superiority Burger. He has also written food articles for the press. The preps here were created while he was running pastry at Del Posto's. This is the paperbound reprint of a 2014 hardbound book; he has left Del Posto in the meanwhile. Still, he won a Beard while at Del Posto. His approach: fruit is king, veggies can be used in desserts, acidity is the key, and simplicity is the goal. So he has 50 pages on such as cucumber creamsicle, candied cucumber, avocados and strawbs, carrot sauce, and: fried Roman artichokes with ricotta gelato, honey and matzo chocolate. He's got tips, photos of techniques, stories about other pastry chefs in NYC, and a variety of eclecticisms. As Bill Buford said, Headley is "brave, extreme and wacky. It is the best anti-cookbook cookbook I have ever read."  Throughout, there is a trail of salt, vinegar and breadcrumbs. In true baker style the ingredients are scaled: preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
26.THE HAPPY COOKBOOK (St. Martin's Griffen, 2015, 2016, 248 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-09227-4, $24.99 USD paperbound) is by Lola Berry, an Australian nutritionist who devised a 20/20 Diet based on her years of experience helping people to shed excess pounds. Her book was originally published in Australia last year by Pan Macmillan, and this is its US debut. The subtitle says it all: 130 wholefood recipes for health, wellness, and a little extra sparkle. Some preps are sugar-free, others are gluten-free, and there are some paleo delights as well. It is all arranged by form, with chapters on smoothies, loaves, salads, veggies, brekkies, surf and turf, and ending with desserts and sweets. It concludes with a series of festive menus, and the dishes listed have page references. Her biggest contribution is the happy thoughts that one needs for a stress-free existence. The 20/20 diet, not really given here, is a way to lose 20 kilos (44 pounds) over 20 weeks. I think all the preps here are part of that diet, but there is no rigour involved. Typical are spiced roasted sweet potato with pecans and creamy tahini dressing, quirky carrot salad, poached chicken salad with maple-roasted pumpkin, feta and pepitas, and broccoli and chickpea patties with tahini and lime dressing. But too many pix of Lola deter from an interesting book. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
27.POSH – EGGS (Quadrille, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-788-6, $19.95 USD hardbound) is one of a publishers cookbook series. Here it celebrates upscale uses for eggs, ranging from advocaat to zabaglione. The publisher says that the egg is the original superfood, and they are right. Here are over 70 recipes: kedgeree at breakfast, green shakshuka at lunch, crab souffle at dinner (with iles flottantes for dessert). Preps are mainly quick, come with a photo, have a somewhat British/Australian twist, and easy to read instructions. Lucy O'Reilly did the writing and the food styling. It's arranged by mealtime. Try bacon salad with beetroot and quail eggs, or sole maltaise. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
28.POSH – TOAST (Quadrille, 2015, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-700-8, $19.95 USD hardbound) is one of a publishers cookbook series. Here it celebrates upscale uses for toast, which it claims is the ultimate fast food. Platforms will vary, but toasts can be made from sourdough, corn tortilla, spelt, seeded, rye, and then made into open faced sandwiches, crostini, even panini. Over 70 recipes are arranged by mealtime, from breakfast through snacks to dinner. Preps are mainly quick, come with a photo, have a somewhat British/Australian twist, and easy to read instructions. Emily Kydd did most of the the recipe writing and the food styling. The range is from anchovy spread to white bean puree. You may want to try mozzarella and kale pesto, spiced potted crab, or chipotle prawns and corn avocado crème tostada. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
29.THE ILLUSTRATED KITCHEN BIBLE (DK Books, 2008, 2016, 544 pages, ISBN 978-
1-4654-5155-2, $24.96 USD paperbound) is by a book packager, with Victoria Blashford-Snell as editor-in-chief. She runs her own catering firm, teaches, acts as a presenter on UK TV, and has written eight popular cookbooks. Here she assembles 1000 preps plus some 3,000 colour instructional photos for techniques. She has menu planners, shopping lists, easy step developments, an idea of what can be made ahead, and ideas for both leftovers and holdovers. All courses, all foods, and all seasons are covered here. Each prep has an indication of serving numbers, prep times, and equipment needed, and storage time lengths. Each of the three categories (starters, mains and sides, desserts) has a special table of contents that lists the title of the recipe, a short one or two line description, a small picture, prep times, and storage times, and of course the page reference. Sub-categories for the three
larger groups include a breakdown by topic. For example, for starters, there are topics like seafood starters, snacks on toast, weekend brunch, healthy snacks, party bites, hearty soups, etc.  Some interesting or unusual recipes include herbed fish goujons, anchovy and olive bruschetta, sesame shrimp toast, sausages with lima beans,  and ginger cream sauce. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
30.CANADIAN LIVING MAKE IT AHEAD! (Juniper Publishing, 2016, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-988002-27-9, $19.95 CAD paperbound) continues the mega-output from this magazine: I think that this is the 24th book in the series. There are 100 plus recipes for batch cooking, freezing, and other storage. Their Tested-Till-Perfect approach ensures a consistency for a variety of situations, such as weeknights or emergency entertaining. This is stuff you could always have on hand. But of course it also depends on the right storage containers. There are good tips her to prevent freezer burns. It's arranged by course, from apps through pastas, burgers, mains, sides, condiments, and desserts. Each prep has nutritional data and some tips, along with timings. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois for volumes and metric for weight measurements, but there is no table of  equivalents. Try cheeseburger spring rolls or mini Cubanos. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
31.POSTCARDS FROM GREECE (Hardie Grant Books, 2014, 2016, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-78488-061-3, $24.99 USD hardbound) is by food and drink writer Rebecca Seal, who has also written "Istanbul: recipes from the heart of Turkey". Her Greek tome was originally published in 2014 as "Islands of Greece" , and for some reason was re-titled on its reissue. So all of the preps here come from places such as Milos, Santorini, Rhodes, Crete, and other islands. These are regional specialties, presented in order of breads, mezedes, seafood, meat, veggies, and desserts. It is also part travel too with some memoir-type material and photos from her life partner. I was disappointed that Greek wines were not covered since they are approaching now on the mainstage...Try sweet Ester bread, olive oil chocolate mousse, volcanic lamb with egg and lemon sauce, and salt cod fritters. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
32.GRAIN BOWLS (Hardie Grant Books, 2016, 192 pages,  ISBN 978-1-78488-048-4, $19.99 USD paperbound) is by Anna Shillinglaw Hampton. It was originally published in hard covers; this is the paper cover reprint. She says that the only tools you will need for this book are: bowl, wooden spoon, knife, frying pan, and saucepan. She introduces "grain bowls", which are (as in the subtitle) mainly bulgur wheat, quinoa, barley, rice,  and spelt. And then she tells how make the perfect grain bowl by layering. Other grains employed include the now-popular  cracked freekeh, buckwheat groats, and kamut. It is a "build-a-bowl", similar to other books which also deal with salads and soups in this build fashion. 80 recipes cover salad grain bowls, vegetarian grain bowls, meaty grain bowls, and diverse dressings and toppings. Well-worth a look for its variety.  Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and  avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of  equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
33.SOUPS (Hardie Grant Books, 2015, 2016, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-78488-038-5, $19.99 USD paperbound) is by Anna Helm Baxter. It was originally published in hardbound; this is the paperbound reprint. It's a companion book to Grain Bowls (above). These are quick and easy soups for every season and every occasion. The opening chapters deal with  soup design and construction, so then it all becomes a technique. There are sections on quick toppings and quick garnishes. The arrangement starts with chilled, moves on to smooth, to stock-based, and then to hearty. Over 80 recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of  equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
34.BEST DIPS, APPS, & SIDES (The Countryman Press, 2015, 2016, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-581-57421-0, $14.95 USD paperbound) is by Monica Sweeney, a food writer/editor who had previously written "Best Dips & Apps Ever" and "Best Side Dishes Ever" for Hollan Publishing in 2015. This paperback reissue is a selection of preps from those two books, combined for paperbound packaging. There are over 50 recipes here, featuring a spinach/bacon dip, savoury pinwheels, and beef lettuce wraps. It is arranged by function: dips and breads, hearty eats, salads and veggies, and more substantial (but still small plate-sized) pasta-potatoes-casseroles. Each is illustrated and the typeface is great for seniors. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating:  85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for March 4, 2017.

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for March 4, 2017.
=======================================================================
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.
 
This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com
 
THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --
 
R+209874 COLUMBIA CREST H3 MERLOT Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley 2014 $20.95 14.5
% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
R+472720 VIÑA BUJANDA GRAN RESERVA DOCa Rioja 2009 $27.95  13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+480020 LA GARNACHA SALVAJE DEL MONCAYO    DO Navarra Proyecto Garnachas de España 2014 $14.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
 
 
20 under $20
=========
W+246140 DIRTY LAUNDRY WOO WOO VINES GEWÜRZTRAMINER BC VQA Okanagan Valley     2015 $18.95    13.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+388363 HÃHÃ SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island 2015 $16.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+408443 PIETRO MARINI TORRONTÉS Salta 2015 $13.95  MVC/QPR:  89
W+464495 DOMAINE BOYAR QUANTUM TRAMINER 2015    $15.95     12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+470955 DOMAINE A DEUX SAUVIGNON BLANC    IGP Val de Loire 2015 $13.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+477737 LUNGAROTTI CABERNET SAUVIGNON IGT Umbria  2014 $14.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+480996 MAYU RESERVA CARMENÈRE/SYRAH Elquí Valley 2014    $15.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+481002 CONCHA Y TORO CASILLERO DEL DIABLO PRIVADA RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON Maipo Valley    2015 $17.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+694737 SPINYBACK SAUVIGNON BLANC    Nelson, South Island    Waimea Estates 2015    $19.95
13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+739995 VINUM AFRICA CHENIN BLANC WO Stellenbosch The Winery of Good Hope    2015 $15.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
R+973271 CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE PRESTIGE DU MALBEC    AC Cahors Alain Gayraud, Prop., Vign. 2013 $19.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+86106 ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES SAUVIGNON BLANC Margaret River    2016 $18.95    12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+265983 MCMANIS CHARDONNAY River Junction  2015 $19.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88
W+65997 DASHWOOD PINOT GRIS Marlborough, South Island 2015    $18.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+485326 FERGIE JENKINS LIMITED EDITION RIESLING    VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment    Rockway Vineyards    2014    $15.95     10% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+350041 PACO & LOLA ALBARIÑO    DO Rías Baixas 2015    $17.95     12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+353177 SALENTEIN RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Uco Valley, Mendoza    2014    $19.95
14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+467290 ANTON BAUER GMÖRK  GRÜNER VELTLINER    Wagram/Osterreich 2014 $18.95  12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+477976 BARONE MONTALTO COLLEZIONE DI FAMIGLIA PASSIVENTO NERO D'AVOLA IGT Terre Siciliane 2015    $17.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+482455 S. DELAFONT LANGUEDOC    2015    $17.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+483909 PIEDRA NEGRA RESERVA MALBEC    Uco Valley, Mendoza    François Lurton 2015    $17.00
14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
 
20 over $20
=========
R2+4430 CHÂTEAU CANTENAC    AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru  2012    $34.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
R+64329 MEERLUST RUBICON    WO Western Cape 2010 $43.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+74922 LUIGI BOSCA D.O.C MALBEC    Single vineyard, DOC Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2013 $29.95    14 % ABV, MVC/QPR:  88
W+140525 DOMAINE BONNARD SANCERRE    AC 2015 $24.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+142240 LOIMER LANGENLOIS GRÜNER VELTLINER DAC Kamptal 2015 $21.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  87
R+142398 WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON Clare Valley/Coonawarra, South Australia 2014 $24.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+204792 BOLLA LE ORIGINI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO    DOC 2009 $47.95 16.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R+229781 A TO Z WINEWORKS PINOT NOIR Oregon    2014    $25.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
W+275552 RODNEY STRONG CHALK HILL CHARDONNAY Sonoma County 2014 $26.95 14.5
% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
W+377770 QUAILS' GATE CHARDONNAY BC VQA Okanagan Valley 2014 $23.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+382945 IL MOLINO DI GRACE RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG 2009 $24.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+437681 12 LINAJES RESERVA    DO Ribera del Duero    Bodegas Gormaz 2009 $32.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R+438580 QUERCECCHIO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011 $33.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+472977 VALDEMAR INSPIRACION LAS CANTERAS DOCa Rioja  2012    $34.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+480061 VIÑA OLABARRI RESERVA DOCa Rioja 2011 $21.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+485342 CHÂTEAU DE LAVERNETTE CUVÉE JEAN JACQUES DE BOISSIEU POUILLY FUISSE 2013    $37.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+585737 BURROWING OWL MERLOT    BC VQA Okanagan Valley 2013 $40.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R+642496 BARÓN DE LEY GRAN RESERVA DOC Rioja  2010 $29.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+344416 CASTELGREVE RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG    Castelli del Grevepesa 2011 $21.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.
W+461640 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHAMPS ROYAUX CHABLIS 2015 $23.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
 
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, February 23, 2017

The Event: 2017 Wines of British Columbia Toronto Trade Tasting

The Date and Time: Wednesday February 8, 2017  11AM to 3PM
The Event: 2017 Wines of British Columbia Toronto Trade Tasting
The Venue: Arcadian Loft
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers.
The Availability/Catalogue: Twelve wineries participated, geared to an audience of mainly sommeliers but also wine writers.
The Quote/Background: Ten wines were poured at the seminar led by David Lawrason; the same wines were also in the show itself, along with about two dozen other wines.
The Wines: I was unable to taste all the wines.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Church & State Wines Lost Inhibitions Red Blend Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2015 N/A BC only  **BEST RED TODAY**
-Dirty Laundry Woo Woo Gewurztraminer 2015 $19.99  HHD Imports  March 4 Vintages
-Dirty Laundry Cabernet Merlot 2014 $25.95  HHD Imports
-Joie Farm En Famille Reserve Pinot Noir 2014 $39.90
-Laughing Stock Portfolio Red Blend Merlot, CS, CF, Malbec, PV 2014 $54.95 Licensee Rogers
-Poplar Grove The Legacy Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 +353110 $52
-Sperling Vineyards Chardonnay Vision 2014 +378570 $32    **BEST WHITE TODAY**
-Cipes Brut NV Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc $24.90   N/A
-Cipes Blanc de Noir Pinot Noir Brut 2008 $32 N/A
-Cipes Ariel Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier Brut 1998 $77 N/A
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2014 +208694 $33.95
-Church & State Wines Lost Inhibitions White Blend Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc 2015 N/A BC Only
-Burrowing Owl Merlot 2012 +585737 $40.95
-Laughing Stock Blind Trust Red Malbec, Merlot, CS, CF 2014 $36.95 Licensee Rogers
-Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2015 +137348 $44.25
-Burrowing Owl Malbec 2014 +284256 $44.25
-Moraine Estate Cliffhanger Red Malbec and Merlot 2014 +464131 $24.95
-Poplar Grove Pinot Gris 2016 +467555 $23.95
-Poplar Grove Syrah 2013 $44.95 Trialto
-St. Hubertus Riesling 2014 $17.95  Terroir
-Cipes Rose Brut NV Pinot Noir $26 N/A
-Therapy Vineyards Freud's Ego Merlot, Cab Sauv, Syrah, Cab Franc 2015 $24.95 Dionysus
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Joie Farm Pinot Noir 2014 $26.95
-Joie Farm A Noble Aromatic White Blend 2015 $24.95
-Mission Hill Chardonnay 2014 +281212 $15.95
 
The Food: It was a great idea – amuse bouche style food right in front of each pouring table – smoked fish crostini, pastrami and other meats on some kind of platform, chicken samosas, beef in choux paste. Kudos!
The Downside: I was at the dentist, so I could not make the seminar.
The Upside: a good chance to reconnect with BC VQA wines.
The Contact Person: Lkittmer@winebc.com or Tnykilchuk@winebc.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, February 21, 2017

The Event: Wine Australia Winter Trade Tasting with Mark Davidson

The Date and Time:  Tuesday February 7, 2017   11AM to 4PM
The Event: Wine Australia Winter Trade Tasting with Mark Davidson
The Venue: Verity
The Target Audience: wine writers and sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: there was a catalogue with prices indicating availability or N/A. There were 55 wines.
The Quote/Background: Tables were arranged by type – alternative varieties, aromatic whites, chardonnay, pinot noir and grenache, cabernet blends, and shiraz blends (largest). There was a seminar of 14 wines led by Mark Davidson and a team of six local sommeliers. Sixty people attended this seminar; the names of the wines have been folded in to the listing below.
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines, and some I could not get to because of the tables and crowds.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tahbilk Goulburn Valley Marsanne 2010  **BEST WHITE TODAY** [not listed at LCBO]
-Domaine Naturaliste Rebus Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2015  $32.95
-Kalleske Pirathon Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 $33.42
-Henschke Keyneton Euphonium Barossa Valley Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc 2012 N/A
-Vasse Felix Heytesbury Margaret River Chardonnay 2015 +111368 $69.95
-Cullen Diana Madeline Margaret river Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2010 N/A
-Luke Lambert Yarra Valley Syrah 2012  N/A   **BEST RED TODAY**
-Rockford Basket Press Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 +195254 $94.95 [oldest wine today]
-Bindi Quartz Macedon Ranges Chardonnay 2015  $121.23
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tahbilk Goulburn Valley Marsanne 2016 +117945 $18.95
-Jansz Premium Tasmania Cuvee NV +566828 $26.95
-Domaine Naturaliste Discovery Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2014  +489906 $22.95
-Vasse Felix Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 +686543 $43.95
-Tahbilk Glulburn Valley Viognier 2016 $18.95
-Vasse Felix Filius Margaret River Chardonnay 2015 +106103 $24.95
-Bindi Dixon Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir 2012 $84.65
-Ringbolt Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 +606624 $21.95
-Ulupna Limited Edition Goulburn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 $36.95
-Ulupna Royal Phoenix Goulburn Valley Shiraz 2015 $45.95
-Jasper Hill Georgia's Paddock Heathcote Shiraz 2013 $102.11
-Kay Brothers Hillside McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 $52.92
-Mitolo GAM McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 $52.95
-Langmeil Valley Floor Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 +140912 $27.95
-Glaetzer Bishop Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 +627869 $39.95
-Ochota Barrels Sense of Compression Adelaide Hills Grenache 2015 $86,95
-Yalumba The Octavius Barossa/Eden Shiraz 2012 $129.95
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-O'Leary Walker Polish Hill Clare Valley Riesling 2015 $27.55
-Domaine Naturaliste Sauvage Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2015 $32.95
-Alpha Box & Dice Golden Mullet Fury McLaren Vale Semillon Viognier 2014 +237446 $20
-Tyrrell's Vat 1 Hunter Semillon 2012 +930495 $55.95
-By Farr Tarrside Geelong Pinot Noir 2014 $82.72
 
The Food: platters of international gourmet cheeses, crispbreads, preserves, and grapes.
The Downside: once the seminar was over, the tables were moved back. But there was still so little room that it was difficult to get to all the wines, pour and then spit and dump.
The Upside: most of the discussion came from the sommelier panel, and this was very refreshing.
The Contact Person:  anne.popoff@wineaustralia.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, February 14, 2017

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for February 18, 2017.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for February 18, 2017.
=======================================================================
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.
 
This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com
 
THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS – (all under $20)
 
R+383018 RAMIREZ DE LA PISCINA CRIANZA Rioja 2012    $15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
W+485243 16 Mile Cellar  REBEL CHARDONNAY VQA Niagara Peninsula 2012 $19.95, MVC/QPR: 91
R+481184 CASTELSINA CHIANTI RISERVA 2010 $14.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
 
20 under $20
=========
R+17111 FINCA FLICHMAN EXPRESIONES RESERVE SHIRAZ/CABERNET SAUVIGNON Mendoza 2014 $15.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
R+60244 SANTA ALICIA GRAN RESERVA DE LOS ANDES CABERNET SAUVIGNON Maipo Valley 2013    $15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+89029 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING VQA Niagara Peninsula 2014 $18.95,
MVC/QPR:  91
W+162651 LANDER-JENKINS CHARDONNAY    California 2014 $18.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+194753 Bodegas Franco-Españolas RIOJA BORDÓN RESERVA 2009 $19.95, 13.5% ABV,
MVC/QPR:  89
R+244699 ABAD DOM BUENO CRIANZA DO Bierzo    2006    $15.95, 14.1% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+246579 CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY MUSQUÉ Cave Spring vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment 2014    $16.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+251439 FIELDING ESTATE BOTTLED RIESLING    VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment 2015 $19.95,  MVC/QPR:  89
R+265967 FOWLES STONE DWELLERS SHIRAZ Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria  2013 $19.95,  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+287961 Small Gully Wines OSCAR'S ESTATE VINEYARD SHIRAZ/VIOGNIER Barossa Valley, South Australia 2013    $18.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+295626 STADT KREMS GRÜNER VELTLINER Kremstal 2015 $16.95, 12.5% ABV,
MVC/QPR: 89
R+317008 VERSADO MALBEC Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza 2013 $19.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
W+350900 ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES CHARDONNAY    Margaret River, Western Australia 2015 $18.95, MVC/QPR: 89
R+397422 Quinta de Porrais PARCELAS DOC Douro  2013 $14.95,  14% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88
R+413245 GÉRARD BERTRAND GRAND TERROIR LES ASPRES SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE/
GRENACHE Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres 2013    $18.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+474031 PENMARA THE WHITE RIBBON SÉMILLON Hunter Valley, New South Wales    2016 $14.95,  MVC/QPR: 88
R+476390 AIA VECCHIA LAGONE TOSCANA    IGT Toscana    2013    $19.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+477752 VALLE REALE SENTIERI PECORINO DOC 2015    $15.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+479659 Michel Gassier CHÂTEAU DE NAGES VIEILLES VIGNES COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES
2014    $19.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+480673 XENYSEL PIE FRANCO MONASTRELL DOP Jumilla 2015 $13.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+482497 EMBOCADERO    DO Ribera del Duero    San Pedro Regalado    2012    $15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+675223 KILIKANOON KILLERMAN'S RUN CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Clare Valley, South Australia 2014 $19.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+973214 DI MAJO NORANTE BIFERNO ROSSO RAMITELLO DOC 2012    $18.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
20 over $20
=========
R+28837 CLARENCE DILLON CLARENDELLE RED    AC Bordeaux     2012    $23.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.
R+32508 PININO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010    $54.95,  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+90365 WATERBROOK CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Columbia Valley 2013 $24.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+204750 GIUSEPPE CAMPAGNOLA AMARONE DELLA CLASSICO 2012    $43.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+219469 TWO HANDS SEXY BEAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON    McLaren Vale, South Australia 2015 $29.95,  14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R+225052 MAISON NICOLAS PERRIN SAINT-JOSEPH 2013    $39.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+268391 HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE PINOT NOIR    VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment 2012 $24.95, 13.6% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
R+293431 VIVANCO RESERVA Selección de Familia Rioja 2010 $24.95. 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+357475 DANDELION LIONESS OF MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ McLaren Vale, South Australia 2014    $21.95, 13.4% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+479709 CHÂTEAU ROMBEAU CUVÉE PIERRE DE LA FABRÈGUE Côtes de Roussillon 2012 $22.95,  14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+484626 ROCKWAY WILD FERMENT CHARDONNAY VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment  2014    $22.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+485102 PLANETA CHARDONNAY    DOC Sicilia    2014    $45.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+684530 CONO SUR 20 BARRELS LIMITED EDITION PINOT NOIR Casablanca Valley    2014 $29.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+695908 Jean Pabiot et Fils DOMAINE DES FINES CAILLOTTES POUILLY-FUMÉ  2015 $26.95
13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88
R+699454 ROCCA DELLE MACÌE RISERVA DI FIZZANO SINGLE VINEYARD GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013    $33.95,  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+740639 CHÂTEAU SIXTINE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2013 $47.95,  15.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88
R+998476 JIM BARRY THE LODGE HILL SHIRAZ Clare Valley, South Australia 2013 $24.95,  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

 

Monday, February 13, 2017

The Event: lunch and wine tasting with Pieroangelo Tommasi

The Date and Time: Monday, February 6, 2017  Noon - 3PM
The Event: lunch with Pieroangelo Tommasi
The Venue: Modus Ristorante
The Target Audience: wine writers, lcbo
The Availability/Catalogue: the current releases are all available through Vintages, with one private order. The older vintages were N/A. The agency is Univins and Spirits.
The Quote/Background: Pieroangelo spoke about his family's company and their latter-day expansion before leading the tasting. Currently, they own 6 wineries through 5 regions (Veneto, Lombardy, Tuscany, Apulia, and Basilicata. We tasted 4 wineries today – 7 Amarones in two styles and 4 other wines. The major difference between the Amarones is that Ca'Florian comes in at 4 g/l sugar and 75% corvina while the basic Amarone has 8 g/l sugar and only about 50% corvina. I preferred the lower sugar levels, and of course they went better with the food. The 2009 Amarones are the company's 50th harvest.
The Wines:
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Casisano Brunello di Montalcino 2011, +483800, $49.95 Vintages April 1/17
-Tommasi Amarone Classico 2007, 15.5% ABV, n/a
-Tommasi Amarone Classico 2009, 15.5% ABV, n/a
-Tommasi Ca' Florian Amarone Classico 2007, 15.5% ABV, n/a  *BEST RED TODAY*
-Tommasi Ca' Florian Amarone Classico 2008, 15.5% ABV, n/a
-Tommasi Ca' Florian Amarone Classico 2009, 15.5% ABV $99.95 private order 6-pack
-Paternoster Aglianico del Vulture 2012 Basilicata, $35.95 Vintages July 6 2017
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Poggio al Tufo Alicante 2013 Tuscany, +70797, $22.95 Vintages
-Tommasi Amarone Classico 2008, 15.5% ABV, n/a
-Tommasi Amarone Classico 2012, 15.48% ABV, +356220, $49.95 Vintages
-Paternoster Don Anselmo Aglianico del Vulture 2012 Basilicata, $67.95 Vintages Sept 7 2017
 
The Food: Before we began, there were some amuse bouche (meatballs in tomato sauce, shrimp, truffled wild mushroom crostini). We ordered with a range of choices: I did the grilled shrimp with beans and red peppers, and the prime strip loin – both with the Amarones in mind as good accompaniments.
The Downside: wow – my palate needed a cleanser after the heavy-heavy Amarones (15.5% ABV)
The Upside: a good chance to exchange views and opinions about Tommasi wines and the Italian wine industry.
The Contact Person: cbreuer@univins.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, February 11, 2017

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 
...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. They've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
15.COCONUT OIL (Quadrille, 2015, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-838-8, $22.95 USD hardbound) is by Lucy Bee, founder of the leading UK brand of coconut oil: it is raw, organic, extra virgin, cold pressed, and Fair Trade. As a celiac, Lucy found coconut to be extremely useful. The book was originally published in the UK last year, and this is its Canadian release. She's got over 100 recipes, mostly on ingesting but also on beauty ideas to feed one's skin. It's arranged by mealtime and by course, apps to desserts, with material on a pantry. There's a glossary and nutritional information; there are also icons for gluten-free, wheat-free, dairy-free, lactose-free, vegetarian and vegan. Try lentil and vegetable moussaka, blackberry and lemon sauce pudding, or sweet potato nachos. One drawback: the index has a teeny tiny type font. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88. 
 
 
16.DEEP SOUTH: new Southern cooking (Quadrille Books, 2016, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-720-6, $35 USD hardbound) is by Brad McDonald, Mississippi-born career chef who now explores Southern foodways as a chef outside of North America. The book is loaded with pix of Southern life and plated dishes. It's arranged with a larder/pantry first, followed by  apps, fish, meat, veggies, sides and sweets. The range is thorough and comprehensive, from pickled watermelon rind through chess pie, collard greens, grits, shrimp, crawfish boil, and pork rinds. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
17.ALIMENTARI (Hardie Grant Books, 2016, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-74379129-5, $29.99 USD paperbound) is by Linda and Paul Jones, owner-operators of two Mediterranean eateries/delis in Victoria, Australia. These 100+ dishes are they ones that they serve (among many), scaled to home use. It is arranged by time of day (morning, midday, and later) with sweets. The first two emphasis a diner with takeouts; the later meal is the substantial dinner. Lots of pix and memoir-words describe the feel and history of the place, as well as how they do food. It is all very engaging, with smoked salmon, Persian feta, and cherry tomato tarts or saffron rice with chickpeas, lentils and baharat salad.  Larger dishes include sambusic, whole snapper, roast chicken with harissa or slow-cooked lamb shoulder.  Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
18.LOVELY LAYER CAKES (Quadrille Publishing, 2015,  160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-729-9, $24.95 USD hardbound) is by Peggy Porschen, who has prepared cookies and cakes for many A-listers such as Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow. Many of her preps and commissions have been written up in a variety of UK celebrity watch magazines. Here she gives us thirty recipes for such as passion fruit and mascarpone cake, cheeky monkey cake, mad hatter's checkerboard cake, and pina colada cake. Instructions are detailed and go for pages, with pix of final product and slices and techniques. At the inside back cover there are two cake decorating stencils that can be useful for budding cakers. This is a well-thought through tome for home use. Needless to say, all the baking preps are scaled. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
19.PEACE & PARSNIPS (The Experiment, 2016, 328 pages, ISBN 978-1-61519-321-9, $25 USD hardbound) is by Lee Watson, an experienced chef who has also hosted and worked on the Fox TV show "Meat v Veg". He now works as a vegan chef in Snowdonia National Park in Wales. This current tome has 200 plant-based recipes in an adventuresome mode for both the committed and the newly arrived. Four years ago he went completely vegan, and has adapted many of his earlier influences into strong flavoured foods: Mexican street food, Turkish bazaars, French country food, Spain, and India. It's arranged by course, beginning with breakfast and moving through juices, soups, salads, sides, small plates, big plates, curries, burgers, stuffed, and sweets. Typical are turnip and spinach kashmiri curry with beet raiti, clay-baked potatoes and parsnips with roasted garlic and date masala, smoked tofu sausage sandwiches with red onion marmalade, and dark chocolate and beet brownies. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, February 1, 2017

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for February 4, 2017.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for February 4, 2017.
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By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.
 
This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com
 
FIND OF THE MONTH --
 
R+89003 RIDGEPOINT PINOT NOIR VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment 2011 $14.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  93
 
20 under $20
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R+143206    TRAPICHE FINCA LAS PALMAS GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON Mendoza 2014 $16.95  14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  91
R+190520    SIERRA CANTABRIA SELECCIÓN Rioja     2014    $15.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
R+268136 PODERI ANGELINI PRIMITIVO DI MANDURI 2012 $18.95 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+278390    RUSTENBERG RM NICHOLSON    WO Stellenbosch 2014 $19.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
R+350066    SANTA EMA BARREL RESERVE 60/40 CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MERLOT Maipo Valley    2014    $16.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
R+391581 Bodega Del Abad  GOTIN DEL RISC MENCIA Bierzo 2010    $15.95 14.6% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
W+468215    SCHÖNLAUB PINOT BLANC Qualitätswein 2015 $12.95 12% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
W+471284    CURVOS LOUREIRO Vinho Verde 2015    $12.95 12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+475988 DAINERO IGT Toscana Castiglion Del Bosco    2013 $19.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+479774    VALPIDIO Ribera del Duero    Calvo Casajús    2013 $18.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
W+80764 TUSSOCK JUMPER CHENIN BLANC WO Western Cape 2015 $12.95 MVC/QPR: 90
R+480822 Bodega Volcanes TECTONIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Maipo Valley    2013    $19.95
14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+480905    Miguel Torres SANTA DIGNA RESERVA SYRAH Central Valley 2013    $14.95  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+745349 DOMAINE JACKY MARTEAU SAUVIGNON TOURAINE 2015 $14.95 MVC/QPR:  89
R+195107 CHATEAU SAINT-ROCH VIEILLES VIGNES SYRAH/GRENACHE Côtes de Roussillon 2014    $15.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+347740    MATETIC CORRALILLO SAUVIGNON BLANC San Antonio Valley 2015    $15.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88
W+435479    BARONE MONTALTO COLLEZIONE DI FAMIGLIA VIOGNIER IGT Terre Siciliane 2015    $15.95     MVC/QPR:  88
W+439554 AVONDALE JONTY'S DUCKS PEKIN WHITE WO Paarl 2015 $15.95  MVC/QPR:  88
W+479667 SIMONNET-FEBVRE BOURGOGNE CHITRY    AC Bourgogne 2014    $19.95     12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88
 
20 over $20
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R+276030    MURIEL RESERVA VENDIMIA SELECCIONADA Rioja 2011    $20.95  13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
R+286492    CHÂTEAU D'ANGLÉS GRAND VIN LA CLAPE     AC 2012  $28.95  14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
R+360016 PIER RIO SORDO BARBARESCO 2009 $30.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+366815    ELIAS MORA CRIANZA  Toro 2012 $21.95 15 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+392738    DOMAINE QUEYLUS TRADITION PINOT NOIR VQA Niagara Peninsula 2013 $29.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
W+395699 BERINGER LUMINUS CHARDONNAY Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2014 $39.95 14.3% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
R+418178 OCHOA RESERVA Single vineyard, DO Navarra  2009 $24.95  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+465864    TWO RIVERS TRIBUTARY PINOT NOIR Marlborough, South Island    2014    $28.95  13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
W+469767    JEAN BIECHER & FILS SCHOENENBOURG RIESLING AC Alsace Grand Cru 2014 $23.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
R+484022    CASTELL DE RAIMAT TEMPRANILLO    Costers del Segre 2012 $14.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+489591    DOMAINE QUEYLUS TRADITION CHARDONNAY VQA Niagara Peninsula 2014 $24.95  13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+512384    MARCHESE ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2013    $42.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
W+685222    LA CHABLISIENNE GRANDE CUVÉE CHABLIS 1ER CRU    2014    $29.95
13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+708842    MOUNT VEEDER WINERY CABERNET SAUVIGNON Napa 2013 $49.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+320507    PIPOLI AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE 2013 $15.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+70797    TOMMASI POGGIO AL TUFO ALICANTE IGT Toscana 2013    $22.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88
R+324137    MASI COSTASERA RISERVA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2011    $69.95     15.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+403618    THE MENTORS SHIRAZ    WO Paarl KWV 2012  $29.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+468314    CHÂTEAU LES CHARMES GODARD    AC Côtes de Franc 2012 $22.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

Chimo! www.deantudor.com