Search This Blog

Saturday, July 14, 2018

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH: Tabletop Distilling

 
 
1.TABLETOP DISTILLING (Schiffer Publishing, 2018, 176 pages, ISBN 978-0-7643-5511-0 $34.99 USD hardbound) is by Kai Moller, who wrote it for the German market in 2016. This is the English translation. In Germany, private distilleries are prohibited, and this applies to all systems between 0.5 and 5 litres boiler volume. So the book is useful for the 500 mL capacity "nano"-distilleries. Table-top distilling at its best! Given the nature of the setup and the lack of aging potential, it might be more useful to just make essences and essential oils, perhaps the odd infusion or two. If so, then this is the book for you. In this detailed book Moller applies the tools and techniques and procedures to safely distill raw materials. He covers the step-by-step nature of mashing, fermenting, distilling, and refining spirits. It's a lot of work for basic vodka or moonshine, but it is an extremely useful book for essential oils (which cost an arm and a leg on the open market). Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those looking to widen their scope of alcohol experiences, and make their own essential oils.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: "Distill whenever you feel like it. It always works...I have heated a still without a condenser and steamed water with orange peel and cloves in the chamber....This is not any more complicated than putting a tea light under a fragrance lamp."
The downside to this book: no index
The upside to this book: good for making small lots of medicinal herbs and oils.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Friday, July 13, 2018

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * Just Add Sauce (America's Test Kitchen)

.JUST ADD SAUCE (America's Test Kitchen, 2018, 318 pages, ISBN 978-1-945256-24-0 $29.99 USD paperbound) will pretty well sell itself. It's the 40th book they've published in the non-chronological series. This time they attack sauces: 175 simple and modern sauces that can be paired with 100 easy recipes – or make up your own!! There are small sauces, such as a dollop on veggies or drizzled on steaks, and large sauces, such as curries. All done with the American avoirdupois measurement system. The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, but at least it had metric conversion charts. The arrangement is, in fact, done up by size. The first chapter starts with drizzles and dollops, plus dips. Then it moves on to relishes and salsas, then vinaigrettes, pasta sauces, stir-fry, simmering sauces, and then dessert.
Audience and level of use: fans of the TV show
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: za'atar-rubbed chicken with yogurt-tahini sauce; roasted bone-in chicken breasts with leek and white wine pan sauce; sauteed pork chops with port-cherry pan sauce; arugula salad with pears and apple cider-sage vinaigrette; spring rolls with hoisin-peanut dipping sauce; Thai green curry with kale and squash.
The downside to this book: it can be dogmatic, but give it a chance – do it their way FIRST.
The upside to this book: their books are fairly comprehensive with notes on why the recipe works.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
Chimo!   www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

The Event: Riesling & Co. Toronto German Wine Trade Show June 21 2018

The Date and Time: Wednesday June 21 2018  11:30AM - 4PM
The Event: Riesling & Co. Toronto German Wine Trade Show
The Venue: Arcadian Lofts
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are here or on the water or available by PO. The spiral bound catalogue was a good model, with relevant names and numbers and addresses of the principals, agents and wine labels, including vintages. Prices were not available for all wines, but were listed for some. The wine tables were in catalogue order, thus we did not have to flip back and forth to find an entry.
The Quote/Background: There was a seminar "Taste the New Germany" (new wines from varietals) led by Jurgen Hammer, Director of the German Wine & Sommelier School in Berlin. There were 9 wines, and I folded them into the results below.
The Wines:  I did not taste all the wines.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Donnhoff 2015 Riesling Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Qualitatswein Trocken Nahe $48 Cons Groupe Soleil
-Donnhoff 2015 Riesling Operhauser Brucke Spatlese Nahe $65 Cons Groupe Soleil
-Donnhoff 2015 Riesling Niederhauser Hermannshohle Spatlese Nahe $76 Cons Groupe Soleil
-Donnhoff 2015 Riesling Niederhauser Hermannshohle Grosses Gewachs Nahe $105 Cons Groupe Soleil
-Weingut Pfeffingen 2016 Ungsteiner Harrenberg Grosses Gewachs Pfalz $55 Cons Context Wines
-Edition Abtei Himmerod Cremant Mosel Brut $24.95 Andrew Peller
-Hiestand 2013 JJ-Riesling Kreuz Gossese Gewachs Rheinhessen $50 Univins
-Kuhling-Gillot 2016 Riesling Qvinterra Rheinhessen $24.95  Cons Le Sommelier
-Kuhling-Gillot 2014 Riesling Kabinette aus der Steillage Rheinhessen $31.95  Cons Le Sommelier
-Meiser 2015 Riesling Alzeyer Rotenfels Rheinhessen $32.50  Winelovers
-Deinhard Gelblack Rheingau Schloss Johannisberger Gutswein $35 Mark Anthony
-Prinz von Hessen 2016 Riesling Royal Kabinett Rheingau $29.95 PO  Kylix Wines
-Prinz von Hessen 2016 Riesling Dachsfilet Rheingau $46.95 PO  Kylix Wines
-Schloss Reinhartshausen Chateau Riesling Brut Sekt Rheingau $27.95  PMA
-Schloss Reinhartshausen 2016 Riesling Schlossberg Grosses Gewachs Rheingau $37  PMA
-Schloss Reinhartshausen 2015 Riesling Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Grosse Lage Spatlese Rheingau   PMA
-Schloss Reinhartshausen 2013 Riesling Erbacher Marcobrunn Grosse Lage Auslese Rheingau
PMA
-Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2016 Riesling Alte Reben Mosel $32 HHD Imports
-Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2016 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett Mosel $24.9  Sept Vintages  ** MY FAVE WINE TODAY **
-Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2013 Riesling Piesporter Goldtropfchen Spatlese Mosel  HHD Imports
-Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2015 Riesling Josephshofer Spatlese Mosel $40 HHD Imports
-Selbach Oster 2016 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spatlese Mosel $38.95 +561183 Vintages
-Selbach Oster 2014 Riesling Graacher Domprobst Alte Reben Spatlese Mosel $35.95 +532721 Classics
-Dr. Loosen 2016 Riesling Dr. L Mosel Brut $13.95 +423566 LCBO
-Weingut Schloss Lieser Mosel 2016 Riesling Kabinett Wehlenher Sonnuher $32  CGU Fine Wines
-Weingut A. Christmann Pfalz 2016 Riesling $22.50 CGU Fine Wines
-Julius Treis Mosel 2014 Riesling Sekt Prestige Brut
-Weingut Siegrist Pfalz 2013 Pinot Noir Ilbesheimer Kalmir
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Siegbert Bimmerle 2017 Riesling Baden Kabinett $24.95 Andrew Peller
-Siegbert Bimmerle 2017 Riesling Baden Kabinett Off-dry $24.95 Andrew Peller
-Donnhoff 2015 Riesling Trocken Nahe $28 Cons Groupe Soleil
-Weingut Lucashof 2017 Riesling Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Erste Lage Pfalz The Vine
-Weingut Pfeffingen 2016 Dry Riesling Qualitatswein Pfalz $22 Cons Context Wines
-Kuhling-Gillot 2016 Riesling Nierstein Rheinhessen $31.95  Cons Le Sommelier
-Schloss Reinhartshausen 2016 Riesling Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Grosse Lage Kabinett $28.95 Rheingau   PMA
-Balthasar Ress 2016 Hattenheim Schutzenhaus Riesling Kabinett +735241 Vintages Churchill Cellars
-Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2017 Riesling Wiltinger Mosel $26.95   HHD Imports
-Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2014 Riesling Kaseler Nies'chen Kabinett Mosel $28 HHD Imports Spring 2019
-Selbach Oster 2016 Riesling Mosel $24.95 Noble Estates
-Selbach Oster 2015 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Mosel $46.95 +540476 Vintages
-Weingut Schloss Lieser Mosel 2016 Riesling Trocken $21  CGU Fine Wines
-Weingut A. Christmann Pfalz 2016 Riesling Gimmeldingen Trocken $32 CGU Fine Wines
-Hiestand 2017 Gruner Sylvaner Rheinhessen  Univins
-Weingut Nagelsforst Baden 2016 Pinot Blanc
-Weingut Lucashof Pfalz Pinot Gris 2017  The Vine
 
The Food: chicken schnitzel sliders, sausage sliders, cold cuts, cheeses, breads, fruit and nuts, dumplings, spaetzle noodles (with cheese, meats).
The Downside: I was waitlisted for the seminar, but I got in because there was a 25% rate of no shows. On behalf of my no-show "colleagues", I'd like to apologize on their behalf to the the Consul General of the Federal Republic of Germany.
The Upside: The first table was an uncatalogued tasting of some sekt wines, to set up the palate. And the second table was Donnhoff, who showed four of the top and most expensive wines in the show. What a way to start!
The Contact Person: lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, July 9, 2018

The Event: The Lord of Chianti Classico tasting: Toronto June 18 2018

The Date and Time:  Monday June 18 2018  11AM to 5PM
The Event: The Lord of Chianti Classico tasting: Toronto 2018
The Venue: AGO
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available through the LCBO or by consignment, some are on the water, etc,
The Quote/Background: There was a seminar at 11, with about 50 attendees and nine wines (each with a rep to speak about the wines). The theme was the "9 communes" of the region – 4 from south of Florence and 5 from north of Sienna. It was a Masterclaas led by Michael Godel who carefully illustrated the microclimates with comments from the panel.
The Wines: There were 27 wines estates with a range of Chianti Classico, CC Riserva, and CC Gran Selezione. I did not taste all the wines; the seminar wines are folded into the ratings below.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2014 $30.95 Consignment Le Sommelier **Overall FAVE
-Cantine Melini Chianto Classico Riserva 2011  P Dandurand
-Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva 2013 $29.95    Univins
-Casale dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Parona 2013
-Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Riserva Ser Lapo 2014 $23.95 Sept Vintages
-Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013  $60  Profile
-Castello di Gabbiano Bellezza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013
-Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2012 $69  Colio Estate
-Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico 2016  Carpe Vinum
-Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio 2016  Carpe Vinum
-Famiglia Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Valore di Famiglia 2015  Charton Hobbs -Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Margone 2012  Frontier Wine
-Lornano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2012  Frontier
-Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Don Tommaso 2014 Artisanal Wine Imports
-Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva 2014  Grape Brands
-Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva 2013 $37.95
-Rocca di Castagnoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Stielle 2013  Signature Wines -Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2012  Arterra
-Viticcio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Prunaio 2013  Eurovintage
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bibbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Capannino 2015 Le Sommelier PO
-Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico Riserva Misciano 2013 The Case for Wine
-Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva 2014 Apparition Wine & Spirit
-Castello di Albola Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Santa Caterina 2015
-Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico 2015
-Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione La Prima 2015  Signature
-Famiglia Cecchi Chianti Classico Villa Cerna Primocolle 2015 $23  Charton Hobbs -Fattoria di Valiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 6.38 2013   Wine Lovers
-Felsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia 2013
-Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Losi Millennium 2010  Natural Vines
-Vallepicciola Chianti Classico Riserva 2015
-Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Bastignano 2014 Nicholas Pearce
-Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Nerento 2012  Frontier Wine
 
The Food: this was a buffet luncheon, with quiche, two different salads (green, chickpea), asparagus and mushrooms, and brined roast chicken (drumette with some breast attached). It was tender enough that I knew it was chicken and not cooked Gallo Nero – which would have been "too much" in symbolism...but still it was close enough. LOL.
The Downside: there was a tragedy on the subway which meant that many of us were late for the 11 AM start.
The Upside: good selection of wines, and excellent food.
The Contact Person: chianticlassicotoronto@gmail.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, July 4, 2018

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for July 7, 2018

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for  July 7, 2018
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
These notes for wines available through the LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at  http://www.deantudor.com
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
20 under $20
=========
W+557165    HENRY    OF    PELHAM    ESTATE    RIESLING    VQA    Short    Hills    Bench        Niagara    Escarpment        2016    $19.95  11.5 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+273672    STORIA    ANTICA    RIPASSO    VALPOLICELLA    SUPERIORE    DOC        2016    $18.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+570085    ADEGAMÃE    DORY    RED    Vinho    Regional    Lisboa        2015    $15.95         14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+394288    GÉRARD    BERTRAND    GRENACHE/SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE    CORBIÈRES        2015    $18.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+265983    MCMANIS    CHARDONNAY    River    Junction 2016    $19.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+391847    THIERRY    DELAUNAY    TOURAINE    SAUVIGNON    BLANC    AC        2017    $16.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+701094    MAS    DES    BRESSADES    CUVÉE    TRADITION    BLANC    AP    Costières    de    Nîmes    2017    $17.95    13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90
W+599274    LOOSEN    BROS.    DR.    L    RIESLING    Qualitätswein        2016    $14.95
8.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+541805    POGGIOARGENTIERA    VERMENTINO    IGT    Toscana        2016    $16.95     12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+292029    ARCA    NOVA    VINHO    VERDE    DOC    Quinta    das    Arcas    2016    $13.95 10.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+534362    CHÂTEAU    DE    CRANNE    6ÈME    GÉNÉRATION    AC    Côtes    de    Bordeaux        2014    $17.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+416701    CHÂTEAU    LA    ROCHE    BAZIN    AC    Côtes    de Bordeaux Blaye        2014    $18.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+426247    CHÂTEAU    LES    TOURELLES     Bordeaux 2015 $15.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+391896    SEIN    DO    Alicante        2011    $17.95    15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+310151    TARIMA    MONASTRELL    DO    Alicante    Bodegas    Volver    2015    $14.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+569806    CASALE    DEL    GIGLIO    SATRICO    IGT    Lazio    Bianco        2017    $17.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+    485839    MARCEL    CABELIER    VIEILLES    VIGNES    CHARDONNAY    AP    Côtes    du    Jura        2014    $19.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+183897    PASCUAL    TOSO    RESERVE    MALBEC    Barrancas    Vineyards        Mendoza        2015    $19.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+557603    MCBAINS    OF    COONAWARRA    CABERNET    SAUVIGNON    Coonawarra        South    Australia        2015    $16.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+556449    BAPTISTE    &    LAURENT    LE    MEILLEUR    DES    2    MONDES    SAINT-AMOUR    AP        2015    $19.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+562587    DOMAINE    D'ALBAS    ROUGE    AP    Minervois        2015    $15.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+566059    JULES      CÔTES DE    PROVENCE    AP    2014    $18.95  13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
 
 
20 over $20
=========
R+82180    VIÑA    VILANO    CRIANZA    DO    Ribera    del    Duero        2013    $23.95         14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+213132    LA    PIEVE     BAROLO    DOCG        2013    $36.95  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+570838    VALLEY    OF    THE    MOON    BLEND 41    Sonoma    County    Madrone    Vineyards    Estate    2013    $26.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+986133    LEEUWIN    PRELUDE    VINEYARDS    CABERNET    SAUVIGNON/MERLOT    Margaret River Western    Australia        2013    $32.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+158683    LA    CREMA    MONTEREY    CHARDONNAY    Monterey        2016    $26.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+148866 CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2016 $29.95 13.3 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
W+1552    FLAT    ROCK    THE    RUSTY    SHED    CHARDONNAY    VQA    Twenty    Mile    Bench     Niagara    Escarpment    2016    $26.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+424507    WESTCOTT    ESTATE    CHARDONNAY    VQA    Vinemount    Ridge        Niagara    Peninsula        2016    $27.95    13.2% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+251223    KISTLER    LES    NOISETIERS    CHARDONNAY    Sonoma    Coast        2016    $99.95    14.1% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+378604    KIM    CRAWFORD    WILD    GRACE SMALL PARCELS    CHARDONNAY    Hawkes Bay        North    Island        2016    $24.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+931006    HAMILTON    RUSSELL    CHARDONNAY    WO    Hemel-en-Aarde    Valley        Walker    Bay        2017    $44.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R+316083    SCHOLA    SARMENTI    CUBARDI    PRIMITIVO    IGT    Salento        2012    $20.95    15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+473124    SOPRASASSO    AMARONE    DELLA    VALPOLICELLA    DOCG        2014    $34.95    15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+958868    BARÓN    DE    LEY    RESERVA    Estate    bottled        DOCa    Rioja        2013    $22.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+677450    DOG    POINT    SAUVIGNON    BLANC    Marlborough        South    Island        2017    $26.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+570465    CHARTON    ET    TRÉBUCHET    POUILLY-FUISSÉ    AC        2016    $34.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+303511    LEGÓN    RESERVA    DO    Ribera    del    Duero    Valtostao    2012    $35.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+515486    CARPINETO    BRUNELLO    DI    MONTALCINO    DOCG        2012    $64.95 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+985929    ORTAS    PRESTIGE    RASTEAU    AC    Cave    de    Rasteau    2013    $20.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
 

Tuesday, July 3, 2018

The Event: The annual Taste and Buy Preview of the latest (2016) vintage from Burgundy, hosted by Luc Bouchard and Woodman Wines.

The Date and Time: Thursday June 14, 2018  11AM to 3PM
The Event: The annual Taste and Buy Preview of the latest (2016) vintage from Burgundy, hosted by Luc Bouchard and Woodman Wines.
The Venue: Canoe
The Target Audience: buyers and media
The Availability/Catalogue: some wines were available at LCBO for popular wines; 2016 upper echelon wines are available via Woodman in six packs. 41 other wines were also available for ordering, but there were no tasting samples of these.
The Quote/Background: it was a smaller assortment of labels than in previous years because 2016 was one of the smallest harvests in 25 years. While weather played havoc during most of the year, there was a wonderful ripening period for the small crop. There were about 25 Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village wines from Bouchard Pere & Fils, William Fevre Chablis, Villa Ponciago in Fleurie, and Champagne Henriot.
The Wines:  I did not taste all the wines. Indeed, I tasted very few wines since I had a deep freeze dental appointment at 10AM and could not taste. I brought along my Burgundy expert, Brian Dawson, a retired financier with deep pockets and an even deeper cellar. He assisted me in tasting and ratings. I spent the early part of the session assembling my notes and writing strategies. Prices are RETAIL.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Champagne Henriot Brut Souverain NV $75 Consignment
-Champagne Henriot Brut Blanc de Blancs NV $105 PO
-Champagne Henriot Brut Rose NV $95 Classics +384099
-Champagne Henriot Brut Vintage 2008 $133 PO
-Champagne Henriot Brut Hemers 2005 $325 PO   
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 2015 $50 +545152 Vintages
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Aloxe Corton 2015 $60 +972240 Vintages
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 2015 $60 +661330 July Classics
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Pommard 1er Cru 2015 $80 +129602 August Classics
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Le Corton Grand Cru Domaine 2016 $190 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Nuits St Georges les Cailles Domaine 1er Cru 2016 $160 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Pommard 1er Cru 2016 $99 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Gevrey Chambertin 2016 $74 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru Domaine 2016 $272 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Meursault Genevrieres Grand Cru Domaine 2016 $135 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Montagny 1er Cru 2016 $40 PO  **VALUE
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune du Chateau 1er Cru Domaine 2016 $64 PO  -- another good value
-William Fevre Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru 2016 $67 PO
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux 2016 $26 +461640 Vintages   **BEST VALUE
-William Fevre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru Domaine 2016 $105 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune Clos de la Mousse 1er cru Monopole 2016 $83 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus 1er cru Monopole 2016 $163 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Monthelie les Duresses 1er Cru Domaine 2016 $59 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1er Cru Domaine 2016 $121 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Nuits-Saint-Georges 2016 $71 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Crus Domaine 2016 $505 PO
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Meursault Perrieres 1er Cru Domaine 2016 $147 PO (more mineral, less floral)
-Bouchard Pere & Fils Meursault les Clous Domaine Village 2016 $78 PO
 
The Food: oysters, charcuterie, cheeses, breads.
The Downside: I could not taste until near the end.
The Upside: I enjoyed the wine banter with Brian.
The Event: The annual Taste and Buy Preview of the latest (2016) vintage from Burgundy, hosted by Luc Bouchard and Woodman Wines.
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.
 

Sunday, July 1, 2018

SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING REVIEWS THIS MONTH –

1.Chateau des Charmes Aligote 2017 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $15.95, +556951 LCBO: made from the rare French vinifera (seldom seen outside Burgundy) that Paul Bosc has cultivated since 1978, loaded with orchard fruit (apples and pears) and ending with a finishing crisp acidity suggesting food more than sipping. It was often used in Burgundy as the white wine base for Kir; now, almost any dry white is used for a Kir in North America. It's refreshing for summer, and is unoaked. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
2.Chateau des Charmes Riesling 2017 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $14.95, +3464 LCBO: it has been a long while since I last reviewed this wine in an earlier vintage. It's done up in stainless, slight and light honeyish citrus tones, but refreshing length. Good bones and flesh, off-dryish style (20gm/L residual sugar) that is also useful as a sipper. 10.6% ABV. Spiffy clear "riesling-shaped" bottle, twist top, clean effective and useful labels (both front and back). Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, June 30, 2018

The Event: Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri en primeur Toronto June 8, 2018

The Date and Time: Friday June 8 2018  11AM to 10PM
The Event: Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri en primeur Toronto
The Venue: Liberty Grand
The Target Audience: wine trade, media, the public in the evening
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available or will be available through the agents or the LCBO
The Quote/Background: This is part of the world tour that features wines of the highest standing (three glasses) plus the new bottling of "potential" winners. More than 20% of the wines awarded this year in Italy are labeled as "green", which includes organic and biodynamic wines as well.
The Wines: I was physically unable to taste all wines, but I did try to get around to most agents. I could not make the seminars as I was at the LCBO tasting lab.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Campolongo di Torbe 2011 Authentic
-Masi Amarone Valpolicella Cl. Vaio Amaron Sergeo Aligheri 2011 Authentic
-Trento Brut Conte Federico Riserva 2012 Bossi Fedrigotti $85 magnum Authentic
-Varvaglione Primitivo di Manduria Papale Oro 2015 Puglia  est$20  Caliber
-Villa Raiano Fiano di Avellino Alimata 2015 Campania $34.95 Connexion Oenophilia
-Fellini Primitivo di Manduria Sinfarosa Zinfandel 2015 Puglia  Eurovintage
-Pasqua Cecilia Peretta Amarone della Valpolicella Famiglia Pasqua 2013   Hobbs & Co
-Bis Cantina Tollo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Mo Riserva 2013 Abruzzo $40  J.Cipelli
-Torrevento Castel del Monte Rosso V. Pedale Riserva 2014 Puglia  Majestic
-Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli 2013 $79.95 Mark Antony
-Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Sup. V.V. 2015 $33 PO Noble Estates
-Cavit Trento Brut Altemasi Graal Riserva 2010 Trentino $60 Noble Estates
-Petra Rosso 2014 Tuscany Noble Estates
-Velenosi Rosso Piceno Sup. Roggio del Filare 2014 Marche $40 Consign Profile
-Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva di Fizzano 2014 $37.95  Profile
-Ottella Lugana Molceo Riserva 2015 Veneto   United Stars
-Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2013 $95  Woodman
-Poggio al Tesoro Bolgheri Sup. Sondraia 2014 Tuscany  $60    P. Dandurand
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fiamberti OP Riesling Ida 2017 Lombardy $24 Cottonwood
-Cantine del Notaio Aglianico del Vulture Il Repertorio 2015 Basilicata $35  Dionysus
-Cantina Sociale di Carpi e Sorbara Lambrusco di Sorbara Secco Omaggio a Gino Friedmann Emilia Romagna $17.95 Dionysus
-Fattoria Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Montaperto 2015 $69.95 Grape Brands
-Medici Ermete & Figli Reggiano Lambrusco Concerto 2016 Emilia Romagna Profile
-La Guardiense Falanghina del Sannio Janare Senete 2016 Campania $18.95 Vine Agency
-Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica Vign. Fogliano 2015 Marche  The Vine Agency
 
The Food: cheeses (Parmigiano Reggiano, creamy and regular Gorgonzola, etc.), breads, focaccia, prosciutto on bread sticks, salads, marinated veggies, orecchiette pasta with veggies and sausage, stew and polenta, tiramisu, cannoli, espresso, etc.
The Downside: I had to taste about 150 wines at the LCBO lab for the wine media before this show, and hence I could not attend the two seminars on Prosecco and Barbera.
The Upside: a great opportunity to taste some stunning wines.
The Contact Person: gamberorossocanada@sogood.it
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://winewriterscircle.ca
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.

Wednesday, June 27, 2018

SOME TOP NEW HOST/HOSTESS GIFT BOOKS TO ENJOY OVER THE SUMMER !!!

 
All of these books are recommended values for their intended purposes...Prices are in Canadian dollars...
 
--EATING LOCAL IN THE FRASER VALLEY (Appetite by Random House, 2018, 264 pages, $24.95 paperbound) is a food guide by Angie Quayle, owner of a gourmet food store, Well Seasoned. She's got  over 70 recipes from farmers, producers and chefs who work in the valley.  These are stories and anecdotes from the region, along with maps and itineraries for day trips. There are mini-profiles of the major players, and as such, forms a perfect gift for anybody having an interest in British Columbia food and wine. 
 
 
 
--THE STORY OF FOOD (DK Publishing, 2018, 360 pages, $45 hardbound) is a heavily illustrated history of everything we eat. The audience level is anyone over the age of 10 who is interested in great food. As with agricultural history, it begins with nuts and seeds, moving through veggies and fruits, meat, fish and shellfish, grains and pulses, dairy and eggs, sugars and syrups, oils and condiments, then herbs and spices. There are overall sections dealing with the nature of food followed by the type chapters. So for nuts and seeds, there are sections on nutcrackers, hoarding, almonds, walnuts, brazil nuts, pecans, cashews, pistachios, sesame seeds, coffee, etc. Very entertaining for a mid-day read.
 
 
--THE LATIN TABLE (Skyhorse Publishing, 2018, 168 pages, ISBN 978-1-5107-2866-0  $38.99 hardbound) is by Isabel Cruz, chef-owner of three US west coast restaurants plus a farm near Portland. Her debut cookbook (Isabel's Cantina) was a bestseller. Here she delves into "Latin fusion cuisine" which celebrates the chili, but with innovative and healthy twists on traditional foods.  She's got "three piggie tacos" (carnitas, bacon, chicharron), blackened salmon with pineapple jicama salas, and rack of lamb with cumin, cinnamon and cardamon rub. Drinks are covered too. Preps come from California, Mexico, Puerto Rico, znd down into South America. She's got memoirs and family archives and recipes plus a "Latin pantry" -- ending with a sources list.
 
 
 
 
--A TABLE IN VENICE (Appetite by Random House, 2018, 268 pages, $40 hardbound) is by Skye McAlpine, who blogs about living and cooking in Venice (www.frommydiningtable.com). These are her recipes and photos; she's lived there since she was six. About 100 recipes are here, including bigoli with creamy walnut sauce, grilled radicchio with pomegranate, and scallops with pistachio gratin. The photography embraces the gastroporn of markets, plated dishes, and Venice.  As the back cover says,  these are the "markets, meals and afternoon spritzes from the floating city".  A good job, made even better by including both metric and avoirdupois measurements in the listing of ingredients.
 
 
--TASTING PARIS (Clarkson Potter, 2018, 256 pages, $40 hardbound) is by Clotilde Dusoulier,  who has written four other cookbooks and runs the blog chocolateandzucchini.com. Here she give us 100 recipes to eat like a local. It's all arranged by time of day, beginning with morning, noon, afternoon, early evening, through to late night.  It is also a stroll through Paris with a tour of Parisian cuisine and what local people do during the day, a day in which food forms the centrepiece. Recipes have variations, and there are mini-profiles of food artisans, such as La Maison Poilane (bread) and La Maison Berthillon (ice cream). Markets are also covered, as well as her favourite shopping streets. Truly a delightful too for the lover of all things Parisian.
 
 
--CUBAN FLAVOR (Skyhorse Publishing, 2018, 228 pages, $46.99 hardbound) is by Liza Gershman, food-lifestyle-travel photographer. As was noted, it is a well-researched combination of a cookbook, scrapbook, travel guide and "love letter" to Cuba. 78 recipes have been gathered, from apps through mains to desserts and drinks. She's got some general information on travelling and what to take plus a suggested eight-day itinerary. Major food topics (all with great photography) include (to give them their Spanish names) carne, pollo, pescado y marisco, huevos, vegtariano, dulce and bibidas. And yes, there is the usual "Moors and Christians" as well as so many others. A good souvenir gift book.
 
 
--TUSCANY (Grant Hardie, 2017, 2018,  272 pages, $ hardbound) is by Katie & Giancarlo Caldesi who have been working their way through Italian food and travel: with preps from separately published books dealing with the Amalfi Coast, Venice, Rome, and Sicily. Now it is Tuscany's turn, one of the most food-obsessed regions in Italy. So it's a culinary journey beginning with breakfast, and following through with lunch, dinner and the weekend feast. It is a diverse landscape of simple meals and fab feasts from Tuscany, and the Caldesis do it well. Excellent photos blend plating, techniques and travel illustrations together.
 
 
--TOKYO NEW WAVE (Ten Speed Press, 2018, 296 pages, $54 hardbound) is by writer Andrea Fazzari, a Tokyo-based international food stylist, restaurant consultant, and photographer. Here she has gathered notes and recipes (plus, of course, her photos) from 31 chefs that are defining Japan's next generation – 30 men and 1 woman. Profiles illuminate their techniques and philosophies, and how they feel about their country's food. If you cannot get to Tokyo (or would like a visual remembrance), this is the next best thing. Each chef is given a separate chapter, and at the back there is a listing with advice about websites and Japanese fluency. Interviews are summaries, with Qs and As. Delicious, and well-worth looking at.
 
 
--BETWEEN HARLEM AND HEAVEN (Flatiron Books, 2018, 272 pages, $48.99 hardbound) is by  J.J. Johnson and Alexander Smalls. "JJ" is a James Beard nominee working in NYC kitchens and in Ghana (Villa Monticello). Smalls is an award winning chef-owner in NYC, and together they have operated The Cecil, which is now part of Minton's. Veronica Chambers is the focusing coauthor (she's done other books with Ripert and Samuelsson). This is Afro-Asian-American fusion cooking for big nights, weekends, and every day. The openers are collections of memoirs by the authors, with a careful explanation of Harlem and where they had their roots. This is followed by chapters dealing with salads, meat and poultry, fish, vegetarian, rice and sides, desserts, and more profile material about Bengali Harlem, sauces, Minton's Playhouse, and the Afro-Asian flavour profile. The range includes BBQ brisket egg roll, king mushrooms with harissa vinaigrette and roasted carrots, roti with black-eyed pea hummus and eggplant/carrot puree, charred okra, collard green salsa verde, gullah shrimp mini burgers, and green apple curry.
 
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, June 26, 2018

The Event: Canadian Cheese Industry Conference at the Third Canadian Cheese Awards (held biennially) -- June 6 2018

The Date and Time: Wednesday June 6 2018 1PM to 8PM
The Event: Canadian Cheese Industry Conference at the Third Canadian Cheese Awards (held biennially).
The Venue: St Lawrence Market, Temporary North Hall
The Target Audience: cheese producers, some media
The Quote/Background: There were a number of seminars on offer, such as taking advantage of the opportunity of CETA, NAFTA and TPP; innovations to think outside of the box (Dr. Art Hill, Chair of Guelph's Dept of Food Science and expert in cheese technology); innovation from an American perspective; and panel discussions on expectations from the cheese supply chain. This was followed by the Canadian Cheese Awards Ceremony – see www.cheeseawards.ca for a list of the winners in 19 main categories, nine special categories, five regional divisions, plus the Cheese of the Year. There were 378 entries in all, with the big winners coming from PQ, ONT, PEI, and NS. This is the only pan-Canadian cheese competition open to all milks used in cheese-making – cow, goat, sheep, water buffalo – as pure natural cheese. It was all co-ordinated by founder Georgs Kolesnikovs with Gurth Pretty (Loblaw) and other hosts. There was a jury of 12 who tasted in February all cheeses blind within their categories (directed by Dr. Art Hill).
 
From six to eight PM there was the tasting gala for sampling cheeses, and it included charcuterie, baked goods, wine, beer and cider. The cheese awards are supported by Loblaw Companies with the Dairy Farmers of Canada as Principal Partner, Cow Milk Cheese. Overall, there were two major major cheese winners: the Best Cow Cheese winner was awarded $5000 (this was Cows Creamery 3 Year Old Cheddar from PEI, which  also won the Best Atlantic Canada Cheese), and the Canadian Cheese of the Year also got $5000 (this was Louis d'Or from Fromagerie du Presbytere in Sainte-Elizabeth-de-Warwick PQ).
The Food: We were offered samples of all of the cheese winners in their respective categories. My overall fave was the Best Raw-Milk Cheese, Louis d'Or vieilli 2 ans from PQ – similar to the Cheese of the Year Louis d'Or but a year older in aging. Other samples of food and wine included Ottawa's Big Rig Brewery radlers and pilsener, some Woolrich goat triple crème brie, Janice Beaton's jams and jellies (which are specifically designed to accompany cheeses), Game Changer White and Red wine from Vineland Estates (88 points, $15 LCBO) with pinot blanc and riesling in the white and both cabernets and merlot in the red, assorted breads and biscuits, Brickworks Cider Batch 1904 and its Queen Street 501 (both some of my fave ciders), Ottawa's Seed to Sausage amazing charcuterie (www.seedtosausage.ca) and Sweet Nature Bakery offering grilled raclette cheese sandwiches.
The Downside: I had to miss the seminars as I was at a matinee play that day. The next day I was at the Ontario Wine Awards in Niagara, so I missed everything that day, which included an industry showcase and the big Artisan Cheese Night Market.
The Upside: I managed to re-connect with some friends in the cheese business.
The Contact Person: heather@cheeselover.ca; georgs@cheeselover.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, June 24, 2018

The Event: Wines of South Africa spring release tasting of wines from the Western Cape.

The Date and Time:  Wednesday May 30, 2018  11:30AM to 2PM
The Event: Wines of South Africa spring release tasting of wines from the Western Cape.
The Venue: National Club
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are landed, some are private orders.
The Quote/Background: Seven Western Cape producers were part of the luncheon. Each gave details about their wines in general and the wine being tasted in particular. Wineries included De Wetshof Estate, DGB, Ken Forrester Wines, MAN Family Wines, Mulderbosch, Rustenberg, and Spier.
The Wines: There were three flights: Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc/Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon – 14 wines in all.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mulderbosch 1000 Mile Sauvignon Blanc 2017 $29 private order Abcon
-Ken Forrester Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2016 Vintages $17.95
-Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2007 N/A  – my FAVE of the tasting
-DGB Bernard Series Chenin Blanc 2016 Vintages $29.95
-De Wetshof Limestone Hill Chardonnay 2017 $19.95 private order Glencairn
-De Wetshof LESCA Chardonnay 2015 $24.95 private order Glencairn
-Rustenberg Five Soldiers Chardonnay 2015 $49 Classics June
-Mulderbosch Fable Syrah 2014 $44 private order Abcon
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-MAN Family Wines Tormentoso Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Vintages $17
-Rustenberg John X Merriman 2014 Vintages $24.95
-Spier Creative Block 3 2015 $29.95 Sylvestre
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Spier Signature Chardonnay 2017 $12.30 Sylvestre
-DGB Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2016 LCBO $15.55
-MAN Family Wines Skaapveld Shiraz 2016 Vintages July $14.95
 
 
The Food: breads, salads, chicken breasts, and custards.
The Downside: I had to leave early, to attend a play.
The Upside: a chance to taste some South African wines new to the Ontario market. Plus we were all given a copy of the 2018 Platter Wine Guide.
The Contact Person: keenan@propellerpr.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com