WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for September 3, 2016.

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for September 3, 2016.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com

 

BUY OF THE MONTH: Cave Spring Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer 2013 CSV VQA Beamsville Bench, +302059, $17.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 93.

 

20 under $20

=========

R-Arboleda Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Las Vertientes Vineyard Aconcagua Valley, +606764, $19.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Sauvignon Blanc 2015, +462614, $19.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Junta Momentos Reserve Syrah/Carmenere 2014 Curico Valley, +464396, $16.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Frogpond Farm Organic Vidal 2014 VQA Ontario, +469429, $14, 11.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Chateau des Charmes St.David's Bench Vineyard Gamay Noir Droit 2014 VQA St.David's Bench, +346742, $17.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2015 IGP Vins de Pays du Val de Loire, +672345, $15.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Bod. Coral Duero Rompesedas 2006 Toro, +425868, $19.95, 15% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Vinos Sin Ley M Old Vine Monastrell 2011 Yecla, +344226, $17, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Emiliana Signos de Origen La Vinilla Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne/Roussanne 2015 Casablanca Valley, +63909, $19.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Maycas del Limari Sumaq Reserva Chardonnay 2014 Limari, +378471, $14.95, 13.5% ABV,

MVC/QPR: 88.

R-De Martino Legado Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Maipo, +205674, $18.95, 13.5% ABV,

MVC/QPR: 88

R-Escudo Rojo 2013 Maipo, +464354, $18.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Vina San Esteban In Situ Reserva Syrah 2014 Aconcagua, +662817, $15.95,  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Vignerons de Buxy Buissonnier Montagny 2014, +382879, $19.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2014 VQA Short Hills Bench, +268342, $19.95, 13.5% ABV,

MVC/QPR: 88.

W-De Wetshof Limestone Hill Unwooded Chardonnay 2015 WO Robertson, +419622, $16.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Domaine du Vieux Chai Sur Lie Muscadet de Sevre & Maine 2014, +200048, $14.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Chateau Godard Bellevue 2011 Cotes de Bordeaux, +426049, $14.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Domaine Lafage Tessellae Old Vines Grenache/Sytah/Mourvedre Cotes du Roussilon 2014, +343517, $18.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Cesari Justo 2013 IGT Leggero Appasimento Veneto, +451732, $14.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R-Montgo Monastrell 2012 Alicante, +452136, $13.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

 

20 over $20

=========

W-J. Moreau & Fils Chablis 2015, +466144, $21.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Louis Max Cote de Nuits-Villages 2014, +445312, $29.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2014 BC VQA Okanagan, +208694, $33.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013 VQA Four Mile Creek, +997353, $29.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Quails' Gate Pinot Noir 2014 BC VQA Okanagan, +585760, $28.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay 2014 Sonoma Coast, +251223, $99.95, 14.1% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Columbia Crest H3 Chardonnay 2014 Horse Heaven Hills, +441998, $20.05, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-J.Johr Los Osos Merlot 2014 Paso Robles, +27516, $21.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-La Crema Pinot Noir 2014 Monterey County, +367896, $26.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Rodney Strong Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Knights Valley Sonoma, +456723, $35.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Walter Clappis The Hedonist Shiraz 2013 McLaren Vale, +90191, $21.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR:90

W-Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +912337, $24.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-E. Guigal Saint-Joseph 2012, +30031, $36.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2011, +651141, $61.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR:90

R-Convento San Francisco 2010 Ribera del Duero, +206409, $20.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-CVNE Cune Gran Reserva 2009 Rioja, +393553, $39.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos 2013 Bierzo, +446484, $24.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Vina Real Reserva 2010 Rioja, +94896, $21.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Dandelion Vineyards Menagerie of the Barossa Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2014, +399899, $20.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Auntsfield Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013 Southern Valleys South Island NZ, +361246, $31.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

 

SOME 20 NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH –

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH –

 

1.Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2014 VQA Short Hills Bench Niagara, +268342 Vintages, $19.95: re-released in Vintages September 3, 2016...a really fresh tasting chardonnay, tempered by balanced oak notes from barrel fermentation (90% French oak, one-quarter new) and some short aging in barrels for about 8 months. It typifies deftness at 13.5% ABV: ripeness, balance of oaking and fruit, integrated style in place, while wood integration produces creaminess in the finish. Cork closure. No price increase in over a year. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

2.Henry of Pelham Riesling 2013 VQA Niagara, +268375 LCBO $14.95: absolutely delicious Euro MVC riesling in a Rhine style, with an off-dry palate but a dry finish (good acid levels on the finish). Citrus and flowers on the mid-palate, sip or food. 11% ABV.

Cool fermentation is stressed. Try with goat cheeses, hams, grilled veggies. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

3.Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot 2010 Peck Family Reserve Tier VQA Short Hills Bench, +616433 Vintages, $39.95: made from Pelham's oldest Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot vineyards, from specially selected barrels for this top level. Aged in French oak for 20 months, 60% new and 40% 1 year old barrels. I did enjoy this wine over a week after opening with daily tasting and decanting. Needs more aging to appreciate some nuances, otherwise the wine is useful now. Best with wine-braised meats such as lamb, venison or other game. 13.5% ABV, vinified by cropping and selection.

Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

4.Marimar Estate Acero Chardonnay 2014 Don Miguel Vineyard Russian River Valley, +331884 Vintages, $34.95: a surprise "unoaked" Chardonnay from California ("acero" is Spanish for steel), showing some voluptuous fruit that had developed during its six months or so in stainless tanks. This includes full malo-ferm. It's an organic vineyard with Euro dense planting, here using the See clone. On the palate, expect white fleshed orchard fruit (apple, pears) with some tropicality expressed by a certain overripe quality. Long, long finish, but as a sipper it can also deal with first course food. Twist-top, 13.8% ABV. Nicely aged for consumption now. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

5.Best's Great Western Shiraz 2013 Bin 1 Victoria, +222323 Vintages, $19.95: very ripe and juicy with a longer than expected finish. 14% ABV is not hot at all. Typical black fruit of shiraz but also with some mint. Ir is a keeper for the next few years. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

6.Torres Cos Perpetual 2013 Priorat Catalunya, +265710 Vintages, $49.95: both Garnacha and Carinena grapes are used here, and they are about 80 – 100 years old. It shows, with much body and texture ("cos" is Catalan for "body"). With 18 months in new French close-grain oak, it is very Rhonish and toasty with nuances of coffee and chocolate and lots of black fruit. 15% ABV! Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

7.Quinta de Curvos Prova Cega Tinto 2013 Douro, +446054, $13.95: a very drinkable red made from the famous Port varieties such as Touriga Nacional (30%), Touriga Franca (20%), Tinta Roriz (20%), Tinta Barroca (10%) and Sousao (20%); the latter is widely used in other countries in the production of port-like wines. It is a basic Portuguese wine with both red and black fruits, some spice on the length, but here with some soft finsihing tannins. Well-priced for heartier dishes. 14.5% ABV.Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

8.Escudo Rojo Blend 2013 Maipo, +464354 Vintages, $18.95: nifty red blend of carmenere, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and cabernet franc. It changes every year, but it is mostly one-third of each of the first three, with some franc finishing off the complexity. It has plenty of black fruit (black cherries, cassis, blackberry), plus mocha and toasted tones. It's dense, not yet ready, but will repay time spent in the cellar. Half of 2013 wine was aged in one year old oak barrels for a year. 14% ABV. Good price. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

9.Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2013 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard VQA St David's Bench,

+287268, $22.95 at winery, online, boutiques: one of several chardonnays at different price points from Chateau des Charmes. It is classic Burgundian: barrel fermented and barrel aged in French barrique oak for a year, with lees stirring. Burnt cream and buttery complexity, baked pie, vanilla-caramel arcing tones on the palate. Long finish. One of my fave chards, but do not serve overchilled. Definitely underpriced. 13.7% ABV. Cork closure. Could use more time in the bottle. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

10.Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2014 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard VQA St.David's Bench,

+332858, $35 at winery, online, boutiques: Quite a powerful wine, lots of stylish Burgundian forest floor (mushrooms, earth) to complement the red berry fruit. It was last produced in 2010 (the 2011, 2012, and 2013 years were declassified). Needs some time, maybe two more years. 13% ABV. It will also show better with food such as an Asian salmon preps or veal. Cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

11.Cape Bay Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc 2015 WO Western Cape, +439885, $10.95 LCBO: here is another value white wine from South Africa, a blend of the better taste components of chardonnay and chenin blanc. At this price level, some of the best wines are bi-varietal, as in Chile and Argentina. Expect some creamy chardonnay tones coupled with some citric and off-dry fruity chenin blanc tones. A good blend for quaffing or aperitifs. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

12.Cape Bay Cabernet-Shiraz 2014 WO Western Cape, +396648, $10.80 LCBO: here is another value red wine from South Africa, a blend of the better taste components of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. At this price level, some of the best wines are bi-varietal, as in Chile and Argentina. Expect some black fruit cassis cabernet tones coupled with some gutsy shiraz mouth brimming fruit tones. A good blend for quaffing or red wine aperitifs. 12.5% ABV, twist top. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

13.Mount Riley Limited Release Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +447425 Vintages, $18.95: half from Wairau Valley fruit and half from Awatere Valley fruit. This is a very fruity wine, especially on the mid-palate, with the long herbaceous finish of a Kiwi wine. Aperitif or seafood is the best pairing. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

14.Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +734798, $18.95 Vintages: a very lively savvy, zesty with lots of citric and green tones (herbs, grass, gooseberry, beans, typical low ripeness). Some tropical fruit peeps out. Very much a Kiwi Savvy, best at lunch. 13.5% ABV, twist top. Available at LCBO in the past at same price for 2014, 2013, and 2011 vintages. Tried with Georgian Bay trout: great match. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

15.Sue-Ann Staff Estate Fancy Farm Girl Foxy Pink 2014 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +469338 LCBO $14.95: while I (as a long time wine writer in Ontario) have a problem with the word "foxy" applied to any wine label, I have no problem with this particular wine, which scores well with the MOR crowd who want lower alcohol (11%) but higher sugar (14 g/L residual sugar). It's an engaging blend of 92% riesling and 8% cab franc – which gives it a combo peachy-strawb fruit palate. Best as a patio/deck/pool quaffer, or social drink, or first course app with non-white fatty meats (salmon, tuna, pork).Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

16.My wine bargain of the month:  Cathedral Cellar Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2010 WO Western Cape South Africa, +462762, $16.95 Vintages: this probably the closest non-Champagne I have ever had, one that tastes like Champagne – creamy, small bubbles, great mousse and nose, yeasty biscuit character, and some aging with hazelnuts. It is Traditional Method (MC) of secondary fermentation in the bottle, and it is now 6.5 years old. Made mainly from chardonnay with some pinot noir and two years ageing on the lees. 12% ABV. Please bring it back !! Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

17.Thelema Mountain Vineyards Sutherland Chardonnay 2012 WO Elgin South Africa, +146423, $15.95 Vintages: another fine chardonnay from South Africa, with both fresh fruit and toasty butterscotch plus some great bottle aging, a very over-the-top wine but not heavily oaked. Extremely long length, with a tang. 13.5% ABV. Very affordable and worth while. Buy it all up! And LCBO, please bring it back!! Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

18.Hahn GSM 2014 Central Coast, +441568, $18.70 LCBO: a popular GSM blend of grenache (65%), syrah (31%), and mourvedre (4%), from different locations in the Central Coast AVA. The first gives the red cherry-berry fruit character, the syrah gives it black fruit plumminess and some herbs, while the mourvedre adds anise and polish. This rich, ripe Cali style wine for casual social drinking or white meat (pork, poultry) has 14.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

19.Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2015 Estate Grown VQA NOTL, $15.95 Vintages +333260: this fresh and vibrant rose continues to please year over year as I have said before. It is still 100% pinot noir, dry "old style" as in Europe, but loaded with Ontario cranberry, red fruit strawberry, and some discreet black cherry tones from the hot summer, coming in at 12.6% ABV. Stainless steel fermentation of course, and twist top. Refreshing. Ontario Wine Awards Gold Winner for 2016. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

20.Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir "Droit" 2014 St. David's Bench Vineyard VQA St. David's Bench, +582263 Vintages, $16.95: medium-full-bodied, suggestive of Beaujolais grand cru wines such as Morgon or Moulin a Vent in its capacity for ageing. Dark cherry-berry flavours dominate, but there is added spicing and even some nuances of smokey earth and eucalyptus, although the wine is unoaked. Cork finish. Good with BBQ, cheese, or something substantial, but some tannic structure is present to carry through a whole meal. Des Charmes is the only winery using this particular gamay clone. 13% ABV. National Wine Award Gold 2016 and Ontario Wine Award Gold 2016. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! : True Beer (Sprinkle), pub by Skyhorse Pub

 

 

1.TRUE BEER (Skyhorse Publishing, 2016, 199 pages, ISBN 978-1-63450-642-7, $16.99 USD paperbound) is by Timothy Sprinkle, a business journalist and editor living in Denver. His tome is a major work in American beer history by concentrating on the neighbourhood nanobreweries making extremely local beers. There are about 4000 craft breweries in the US (more if you factor in Canada) making hundreds of different styles of beer that are sold locally. In my own part of  the High Park area of Toronto, there are a half-dozen microbreweries within easy walking distance. They all serve good, well-hopped beers, with seasonal variations. Sprinkle's work concentrates mainly on Colorado, which has long been known as the Napa Valley of beer (I heard that phrase back in the early 1970s when I was there).The business part and the names may be of Colorado, but the techniques and the ingredients are global. So apart from the sense of beer community, there are good chapters on styles of beer, the process of beer-making, the ingredients, the flavours, and the need for its local nature. I actually avoid all bottled beer, and prefer draught (or, as in the USA, "draft") beer for its freshness, nonpasteurization, and low carbonation.

Audience and level of use: craft beer lovers.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts:  Most nanobreweries are run by owner-operators who control labour costs by absorbing them as the brewers and owner-operators themselves. This justifies higher consumer costs due to the exclusivity of their product. And well worth it!!

Quality/Price Rating: 92.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * (Cooking with Beer, 2016)

 

COOKING WITH BEER (Dog 'n' Bone, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-909313-89-7, $19.95 USD hardbound) is by Mark Dredge, a multiple UK beer writing award winner for 2011, 2013, and 2014. He has written other books, such as Craft Beer World. One of his earlier books was Beer and Food, all about pairing beers with foods. Here, he is actually cooking with beer, specifically, lagers, IPAs, wheat beers, stouts and others, in about 65 recipes. Every occasion is covered, from brunches to mains and desserts. He's got an Ultimate section, for preps that use a variety of beers. For example, the Ultimate beer burger prep will have a beer cheese sauce (p105), beer brioche buns (p114), beer ketchup (p118), snakebite pickles (p60), smoked beer mayo (p90), beer-baked fries (p34), beer onions (p102) and beer-caramelized bacon (p102) – using eight different types of beer! Beer is added to everything except to the beef itself, which of course should be top quality needing only salt and pepper. What goes with the Ultimate beer burger, as a drink? How about an IPA he writes? But in my mind, I picture a bock beer. There's an Ultimate beer pizza and beer quesadilla too – all that guy food. Preparations have their ingredients listed in some metric with avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: beer lovers, those looking for a novel twist.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for dessert, try a milk stout ice cream or IPA honey cornbread, or PBK crumble cakes.

The downside to this book: too short, needs more preps.

The upside to this book: covers all courses.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

My wine bargains of the month: South African white and fizz...

Cathedral Cellar Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2010 WO Western Cape South Africa, +462762, $16.95 Vintages: this probably the closest non-Champagne I have ever had, one that tastes like Champagne – creamy, small bubbles, great mousse and nose, yeasty biscuit character, and some aging with hazelnuts. It is Traditional Method (MC) of secondary fermentation in the bottle, and it is now 6.5 years old. Made mainly from chardonnay with some pinot noir and two years ageing on the lees. 12% ABV. Please bring it back !! Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

AND

 

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Sutherland Chardonnay 2012 WO Elgin South Africa, +146423, $15.95 Vintages: another fine chardonnay from South Africa, with both fresh fruit and toasty butterscotch plus some great bottle aging, a very over-the-top wine but not heavily oaked. Extremely long length, with a tang. 13.5% ABV. Very affordable and worth while. Buy it all up! And LCBO, please bring it back!! Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for August 20, 2016.

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for August 20, 2016.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com

 

WINE VALUE OF THE MONTH: RED-Vina Olabarri Crianza 2011 Rioja, +461277, $14.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 92.

 

20 under $20

=========

W-Calamus Steely Chardonnay 2013 VQA Niagara, +210062, $14.95, 12.7% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay Musque 2014 CSV VQA Beamsville Bench, +246589, $16.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2014 VQA Niagara, +89029, $18.30, 10% ABV,  MVC/QPR:88

W-Trail Estate Riesling 2014 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, +468082, $19.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +734798, $18.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Spier Vintage Selection Chenin Blanc 2015 WO Swartland, +455618, $16.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2014 Alsace, +224626, $19.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Schloss Schonborn Riesling 2011 Rheingau, +653535, $16.95, MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Contini Pariglia Vermentino di Sardegna 2014, +455238, $18.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Val de Vid Verdejo 2015 Rueda, +452086, $14.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Agostino Inicio Malbec 2014 Mendoza, +330670, $14.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Gouguenheim Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Mendoza, +194290, $14.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Robert Oatley Signature Series Shiraz 2014 Barossa, +460907, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Chateau Lamothe-Vincent Intense 2014 Bordeaux, +458588, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Chateau La Bastide Optimee Corbieres 2011, +448662, $19.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Domaine de l'Arnesque Cotes du Rhone 2014, +223487, $14.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Velenosi Brecciarolo Rosso Piceno Superiore 2013 Marche, +732560, $13.95, 13.5%ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Jose Maria da Fonseca Domini 2012 Douro, +452730, $13.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Alceno Premium 50 Barricas Syrah 2012 Jumilla, +398933, $14.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Alidis Tinto 6 Messes en Barrica 2011 Ribera del Duero, +461335, $15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

 

20 over $20

=========

W-Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 VQA Prince Edward County, +148866, $29,    MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Diamond Ridge Chardonnay 2014 Napa, +458794, $22.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

W-La Crema Chardonnay 2014 Sonoma Coast , +962886, $29.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

W-Andre Goichot Les Guignottes Montagny 2014, +455139, $26.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Jean Collet & Fils Montee de Tonnerre Chablis 1er Cru 2014, +405720, $37.95, 12.5% ABV,

MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Saint Claire Chablis 2014, +356634, $23.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR:

89.

W-Les Charmelles Sancerre 2014, +448571, $27.95, 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Mario Schiopetto Bianco 2011 UGT Venezia Giulia, +382374, $42.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Norman Hardie County Unfiltered Pinot Noir 2014 VQA Prince Edward County, +125310, $45.20, 10.9% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Duckhorn Goldeneye Pinot Noir 2012 Anderson Valley, +659854, $69.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel 2014, +942599, $21.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Don Sebastiani Sivas-Sonoma Old Vine Zinfandel 2013 Sonoma County, +291096, $24.95, 15%  ABV.  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 2013 Dundee Hills Oregon, +961284, $52.95, 13.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.

R-L'Expression de Margaux 2010 Margaux, +431734, $33.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Monterinaldi Campopazzo Chianti Classico 2012, +454512, $20.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Losi Millennium Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2010, +459735, $39.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012, +356220, $49.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Bod. Balbas Ritus Special Selection 2010 Ribera del Duero, +461236, $21.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.

R-Calandro Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 IGT Toscana, +455519, $22.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulcano 2012, +685180, $33.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

GUEST COOKBOOK REVIEWER: ANN TUDOR LOOKS AT "Chickpea Flour Does It All"

Chickpea Flour (a new book) August 14, 2016 Ann Tudor

 

In case you hadn't noticed, there's been a lot of hoopla the last few years about wheat. Everybody and her brother avoids bread and pasta. And, full disclosure, I admit that I have stopped making bread, stopped eating wheat, and have a cupboard overwhelmingly stocked with the non-wheat baking staples: rice flour (brown and white), teff flour, millet flour, buckwheat flour, sorghum flour, potato starch, tapioca starch, and almond flour. Plus a few others for good measure.

 

I just found a new cookbook that might change everything. Chickpea Flour Does It All, by Lindsey S. Love (New York: The Experiment, LLC, 2016).  The subtitle describes it as "Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free, Vegetarian Recipes for Every Taste and Season." I highly recommend this book.

 

Divided by seasons and subdivided by months, the book features soups, appetizers, main dishes, crackers and breads, and desserts for every season. Spices and herbs from many cultures enliven the dishes, so you will never get bored. The vegetarian dishes are inventive and inviting, full of flavour and colour.

 

Most of us know, however, that you can eat gluten-free very easily in all categories except bread. So what's particularly helpful in this book are the variations on the "bread" theme: in addition to the expected socca (also called farinata or panisse) you'll find flatbreads, wraps, pancakes, crackers, pie crusts, biscuits, brownies, and muffins--all made with chickpea flour.

 

One of the recipes I tried was for "Ratatouille Tartlets".  I'm a sucker for tarts, tartlets, pie crusts in any form, and I particularly hunger for them because making wheat-free versions is a royal pain. Lindsey Love's tartlet recipe was so easy and so delicious that I'll be making it for other kinds of fillings as well. Here's her tartlet recipe:

 

 

1 1/2 c. (GF) rolled oats

1 c. chickpea flour

1/2 c. sunflower seeds

2 T sesame seeds

1 t. sea salt

1/4 t. freshly ground pepper

1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil

1/4 c. ice water

 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease six tartlet pans and place them on a baking sheet; set aside. In a food processor fitted with a metal S blade, pulse together the oats, flour, seeds, sea salt and pepper until finely ground, about 30 seconds. Place the pulsed mixture in a large bowl, pour in the oil and water, mix thoroughly with a fork until mixture is wet and clumpy. Divide the dough evenly among the tart pans, pressing the dough into the bottoms and sides. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.*

 

The remainder of the recipe tells how to make the ratatouille filling (which is added, cooked, to the already baked tart shells, with no further baking needed). I'll let you find your own version of ratatouille. Mine, that day, consisted of a leftover mixture of red and yellow pepper that I had sauteed with onion and garlic. For my tart filling, I cooked an additional half an onion in olive oil, then added a thinly sliced zucchini and my last tomato, chopped, and I let these cook for six or so minutes, at which point I chopped and stirred in the leftover pepper mixture. A quick trip to the back yard gave me some basil and parsley to throw in to the mix. When the tart shells were done I removed them from the pans and filled them with my eggplant-free ratatouille. The nutty, slightly crunchy, very tender tart shells were delicious.

____

*The tart shells are pretty fragile, so if appearance is important to you, it might be useful to allow for breakage by making a few extra. Any broken tart shells can be crumbled and saved to sprinkle on top of a gratin some day, or to add to your breakfast granola.

 

 

My preliminary review of Ontario craft ciders....

Ontario Craft Ciders are far and away better than the "big boys" of Canada or of other countries (e.g., UK, SA, USA). They are at least equal to Quebec, but less definitive than Normandy/Brittany (e.g., Le Pere Jules). Above all, though, avoid flavoured ciders. Read the label to make sure that they are indeed 100% made from pears (perry), raspberry, et al.

 

-Spirit Tree Estate Cidery, Spirit Tree Draught Cider, Caledon: +413153, $3.20: 6.0% ABV. Natural draught style, not pasteurized (they use a UV glass panel to destroy pathogens, no heat). Some animal (e.g., saddles) tones usually found in wine from hotter climates, may be a factor of yeast. Gives the cider texture and character. My yum-yum Ontario fave. Quality/Price rating is 92+ points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Brickworks Ciderhouse, Small Batch: 1904 [white can], Toronto, +394015, $3.15 LCBO: 4.7% ABV. Light carbonation, aromas of fresh heritage orchard cider apples from Georgian Bay and Niagara, all GMO free. Citric finish plus spices suggest apple pies. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Brickworks Ciderhouse: Queen Street 501 [red can, seasonal], +413807, $3 LCBO: 5% ABV, similar to the 1904 but more off-dry in character. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southern Cliff Brands, Pommies Cider Co., Pommies Farmhouse Cider, Caledon, +418582, $3.10 LCBO: 6.0% ABV. Baked apples dominate and the effervescence is high. Some wood tones: did they use a wooden hand press? They also make Pommies Cider, +453118, same price at LCBO. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Coffin Ridge Boutique Winery, Forbidden Wicked Artisanal Cider, Annan: +374496, $3 LCBO: 6.5% ABV. Cold pressed and filtered, pale colour, fresh apple flavours, lemon finish. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Thornbury Village Cidery Inc., Thornbury Premium Apple Cider, Thornbury, +333583, $3 LCBO: 5.3% ABV. A bit green and lean with some grass orchard fruit notes among the fresh apple tones. Finishes balanced and useful for patios and parties. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Small Talk Vineyards, Shiny Apple Cider, Niagara-on-the-Lake, +407668, $3.25: 7.0% ABV. Hot tones from the higher alcohol, but definitely apples, could double as a medium-value sparkling grape wine with its apple-lemon complexity. Producer says made from "shiny" Ontario apples. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: 25th Anniversary Celebration for Conundrum Wines, celebrated by the wine media and the Wagner Family of Wines

The Date and Time: Tuesday, July 26, 2016   2 Pm – 5 PM

The Event: 25th Anniversary Celebration for Conundrum Wines, celebrated by the wine media and the Wagner Family of Wines

The Venue: Milestones Patio, Yonge and Dundas

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines but one are (or will be) at Vintages.

The Quote/Background: it was a great opportunity to taste some stunning California wines from Conundrum, Mer Soleil, Emmolo, and Caymus.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Conundrum White 2014, +694653 $24.95 Vintages Essential

-Mer Soleil Reserve Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2013, +378661 $34.95 Vintages California Walkabout Sept 22

-Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, +711663, $175.95 (V2013 Vintages release Nov 26 2016)

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Conundrum Rose 2015, $24.95 (available later, TBD)

-Mer Soleil Silver  Chardonnay 2014, +220343 Vintages $29.95

-Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc 2014, +960165, $27.95 Vintages California Walkabout Sept 22

-Emmolo Merlot 2013, +96024,  $69.95 Vintages

-Caymus Zinfandel 2013 $59.95 (V2014 Vintages release Fall 2016)

-Caymus Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 $103.95 (V2014 Vintages release Nov 26 2016)

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Conundrum Red 2013, +294298 $24.95 Vintages Essential

 

The Food: we walked around with fried calamari, prime rib sliders, lettuce stuffed tacos, fish tacos, Asian Thai chicken bites, mostly from Cathryn our waitress.

The Downside: it was a blazing hot day, the entire patio was exposed to the naked sun except for one umbrella which was coveted. For serious tasting, I brought some glasses inside.

The Upside: pretty good food to match the wines.

The Contact Person: carrie.may@andrewpeller.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 86.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for August 6, 2016.

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for  August 6, 2016.

=======================================================================

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.

 

This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com

 

** My wine bargain of the month:  Cathedral Cellar Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2010 WO Western Cape South Africa, +462762, $16.95. MVC/QPR – 92 points **

 

20 under $20

=========

W- Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2015 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +80234, $16.95, 9.5% ABV,        MVC/QPR:  89

R-Best's Bin No. 1 Shiraz 2013 Great Western Victoria, +222323, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90

W-Thelema Mountain Vineyards Sutherland Chardonnay 2012 WO Elgin South Africa, +146423, $15.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91

R-Chateau Tour de Sarrail 2010 Bordeaux, +448829, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-B & V Marchesseau Vignoble des Robinieres L'Alouette Bourgueil 2014,  +450494, $19.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir Les Aspres Grenache/Mourvedre/Syrah 2013 Cotes du Roussillon, +413245, $18.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Tenuta Ulisse Unico Pecorino 2014 IGP Terre di Chieti Abruzzo, +249128, $19.95, 13% ABV,

MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Casa Santos Lima Confidencial Reserva 2012 Vinho Regional Lisboa, +452789, $14.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89,

R-Bod. Classica Hacienda Lopez de Haro Reserva 2009 Rioja, +357335, $17.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Megalomaniac Narcissist Riesling 2014 Edra's Vineyard VQA Niagara, +67587, $17.95, 11.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Fielding Red Conception 2013 VQA Niagara, +189183, $18.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.

W-Cline Viognier 2014 North Coast, +128421, $18.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Troupis Moschofilero 2015 PDO Mantinia Greece, +463422, $16.95, 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Tsantali Naoussa Reserve 2011 Greece, +209627, $15.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Columbia Crest H3 Merlot 2013 Horse Heaven Hills Columbia Valley, +209874, $19.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Graffigna Grand Reserve Malbec 2012 San Juan Argentina, +162149, $17.95, 14.5ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Casas Del Bosque Reserva Pinot Noir 2014 Casablanca Valley, +995068, $15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Mitolo The Nessus Shiraz 2013 McLaren Vale, +457291, $16.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +606848, $18.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88

R-Pietra Pura Mandu Primitivo di Manduria 2013, +216457, $16.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Gordo Tinto 2012 Yecla, +432435, $18.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

 

 

 

20 over $20

W-Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2013 VQA Four Mile Creek Niagara, +586347, $24.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Sanford Chardonnay 2012 Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara County, +956003, $30.95, 14.4% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Torres Cos Perpetual 2013 Priorat Spain, +265710, $49.95, 15% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

W-Marimar Estate Acero Chardonnay 2014 Don Miguel Vineyard Russian River Valley Sonoma County, +383943, $34.95, 13.8% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

W-Mer Soleil Silver Unoaked Chardonnay 2014 Monterey County, +220343, $29.95,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Alpha Estate Turtles Vineyard Syrah 2011 Florina Greece, +115295, $21.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Davis Bynum Jane's Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 Russian River Valley Sonoma County, +458893, $39.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Sonoma County, +226944, $24.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Chateau La Fleur Pourret 2009 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, +455667, $38.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.

R-Estate Papaioannou Single Vineyard Agiorgitiko 2010, +47944, $20.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 92

R-J & J Kekfrankos 2011 Eger Hungary, +446591, $24.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR:88.

R-Umberto Fiore Barolo 2012, +454470, $32.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2008, +318352, $46.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Villa Cerna Riserva Chianti Classico 2012, +349407, $28.95, 13.5%ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Bod. Balbas Ardal Reserva 2006 Ribera del Duero, +167700, $21.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.

R-Luis Canas Reserva 2010 Rioja, +334094, $26.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.

R-Damilano Lecinquevigne Barolo 2011, +454488, $46.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.

Champagne – Gardet Cuvee Saiunt Flavy Brut Tradition, +924654, $42.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.

W-Buena Vista Chardonnay 2014 Sonoma County, +396440, $24.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.

R-Josef Chromy Pepik Pinot Noir 2014 Tasmania, +162990, $21.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! (The Curious Bartender's Gin Palace, 2016)

THE CURIOUS BARTENDER'S GIN PALACE (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2016, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-701-0, $21.95 USD hardbound) is by Tristan Stephenson, best-selling author of the Curious Bartender series of drinks books (The Artistry and Alchemy of Creating the Perfect Cocktail;  An Odyssey of Malt, Bourbon & Rye Whiskies). It is a generous book for the price, with detailed history of the origins and time-lines of gin throughout the world, with great illustrations. Of course he continues with how gin is made, and then proceeds to describe the great gin companies and their formulas (half the book). Superb tasting notes. So for England and Scotland we have Adnam's, Hendrick's, Gordon's, Beefeater, Tanqueray, Bombay Sapphire – and many more that don't turn up (usually) in Ontario. There are also listings for other countries and regions, such as Europe. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: gin lovers, liquor historians.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the classics – gin fizz, tonic water syrup, French 75, Negroni, sloe gin, gimlet, martini, etc.

The downside to this book: there are only a few micro-descriptions of other gin distilleries, none for Canada (candidates: Ungava, Victoria's).

The upside to this book: a good collection of historical notes.

Quality/Price Rating: 91.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com