WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for AUGUST 31, 2019 --

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for AUGUST 31, 2019 --

 

IT'S THE BLUE MOON RELEASE !!

 

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com

 

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

 

NOTE: The first portion  is based on my sampling of the table wines chosen by the LCBO from this release for tasting. That presentation is about 50+  different labels out of about 125 released every two weeks. These wines are basically those that fit the categories of  any of the Featured Themes, Wines of the Month, Local Talent, and "new" -- wines that the LCBO has ordered in sufficient quantities for the Ontario marketplace. Not put out for us are the re-orders (even though they may be of a different vintage) , ISDs, or the expensive wines.  Thus, my report comes from a restricted database. I did not taste every one of these 50+ category wines, nor did I rate several of the wines I did sample because they did not seem to be of particularly good value in terms of their price. And as we edge closer to the "double sawbuck" wine, I've segregated them in honour of the BLUE MOON!! --

 

R+10591    PÉREZ CRUZ LIMITED EDITION CABERNET FRANC    Fundo Liguai de Huelquén, DO Maipo Valley    2016    $19.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+323741    ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Margaret River, Western Australia    2017    $19.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+666628    CHÂTEAU TANESSE    AC Côtes de Bordeaux - Cadillac    2015    $19.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+698175    WATERKLOOF CIRCLE OF LIFE RED    WO Stellenbosch    2015    $19.95  13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

 

NOTE: The second part (at the end) is a simple listing of  those wines that were NOT presented to the media, and are given here simply as a record of  what sampling I could not do. I have left in the name of the agency, in fairness to all.

 

PART ONE:  The "best" wines of a reduced tasting  --

 

THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --

 

Sherry+10648    TÍO PEPE FINO EN RAMA    DO    2019    $22.95  15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92

 

HALF-BOTTLE ALERT --

W+10866    J. LOHR ESTATES RIVERSTONE CHARDONNAY    Arroyo Seco, Monterey County    2017    $12.95  13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

 

Under $20

=========

W+80234                      FEATHERSTONE BLACK SHEEP RIESLING  VQA Niagara Peninsula     2018 $17.95  10 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+ 519025    FEATHERSTONE PHOENIX  VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2018    $18.95  13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5

W+149336    THORNBURY CHARDONNAY    Gisborne, North Island    2017    $18.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.5

W+914390    RASCALLION 33 1/3 RPM WHITE BLEND    WO Western Cape    2017    $18.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+610907    SIMONSIG CHENIN BLANC    WO Stellenbosch    2018    $13.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89.5

R+646091    DALVA BRANCO    DOC Douro    2017    $12.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+64618                      FEATHERSTONE CABERNET FRANC  VQA Niagara Peninsula 2017     $17.95    12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+646844    H J. FABRE RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGON    Mendoza    2016    $18.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.5

R+10591                      PÉREZ CRUZ LIMITED EDITION CABERNET FRANC    Fundo Liguai de Huelquén, DO Maipo Valley    2016    $19.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+323741    ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Margaret River, Western Australia    2017    $19.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+648550    HENRY FESSY GAMAY NOIR    France    2017    $16.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+550293    CHÂTEAU LOUMELAT CUVÉE J.J. LESGOURGUES    AC Côtes de Bordeaux - Blaye    2015    $17.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92

R+666628    CHÂTEAU TANESSE    AC Côtes de Bordeaux - Cadillac    2015    $19.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+526632    COURTOIS LA GRANGE VINSOBRES    AC    2015    $17 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: % ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

R+699025    RHONEA ROAIX CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES    AC    2016    $17.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+380741    GUILLAUME AURÈLE VIOGNIER    IGP Pays d'Oc    2018    $14.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+698175    WATERKLOOF CIRCLE OF LIFE RED    WO Stellenbosch    2015    $19.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

W+10621                      GÉRARD BERTRAND CÔTE DES ROSES WHITE    AP    2018    $18.95     13%ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5

R+10121                       DUCA DI SARAGNANO SIR PASSO    IGT Toscano Rosso    2017    $16.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+488007    PERIQUITA RESERVA    Vinho Regional Península de Setúbal    2016    $16.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

 

Over $20

=========

W+488825    DEUX ROCHES VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ    AP    2016    $41.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

W+927186    CLOS HENRI PETIT CLOS SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island    2017    $21.95 13 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+660597    FESS PARKER PINOT NOIR    Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County    2016    $32.95  14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+171587    FARINA LE PEZZE AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO    DOCG    2015    $37.95  14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

W+667501    DOMAINE DE CONGY POUILLY-FUMÉ    AC    2017    $32.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

W+142125    LES VIGNERONS DU CASTELAS CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC    AC    2017    $15.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+108076    COCO RÔTIE SYRAH/VIOGNIER    South Australia    2017    $24.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

R+648063    CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR PEYRABON    AC Pauillac    2014    $48.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5

R+644799    CHÂTEAU LA PIROUETTE    AC Médoc    2016    $23.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+10143                      DULUC DE BRANAIRE-DUCRU    4e cru, AC Saint-Julien    2015    $55.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+981787    DOMAINE DU GRAPILLON D'OR GIGONDAS    AC    2016    $34.95     15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+644567    CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH ROUBIALS    IGP Côtes Catalanes    2016    $24.95     15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+534909    ANZIVINO GATTINARA    DOCG    2012    $29.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+702761    MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES RESERVA    DOCa Rioja    2014    $24.95     16% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+10720                       PUELLES RESERVA    DOCa Rioja    2009    $19.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

 

PART TWO: The "rest" of the release [not offered for sampling by media] with agents --

 

    435784    VIENI MOMENTI SPARKLING WINE    Charmat method, VQA Ontario        $13.95    VIENI ESTATES INC.

    168948    CAVE DE BEBLENHEIM BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE    Traditional method, AC, Alsace, France        $19.95    VIN VINO WINE MERCHANTS    

                   636704    BAGRATIONI 1882 CLASSIC DRY SPARKLING    Charmat method, Georgia        $14.95    MATVIL

    708305    FRANCIS COPPOLA DIAMOND COLLECTION GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY    Monterey County    2017    $23.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS    

                  658112    MCMANIS FAMILY VINEYARDS VIOGNIER    River Junction    2017    $19.95    THE VINE AGENCY

    655381    STAGS' LEAP WINERY CHARDONNAY    Napa Valley    2017    $41.95    MARK ANTHONY WINE & SPIRITS

    191593    JOEL GOTT SAUVIGNON BLANC    California    2017    $19.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    258145    A TO Z PINOT GRIS    Oregon    2017    $19.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC

    389262    ZUCCARDI SERIE A TORRONTÉS    IP Salta    2017    $16.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.

    928580    SANTA CAROLINA GRAN RESERVA CHARDONNAY    Certified carbon neutral, DO Itata Valley    2017    $18.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC

    271387    TAHBILK VIOGNIER    Nagambie Lakes, Central Victoria    2018    $18.95    GRAPE EXPECTATIONS WINE AGENCY

    285882    WITS END LUNA CHARDONNAY    Adelaide Hills, South Australia    2018    $19.95    AZUREAU WINE AGENCY

    9167    MOMO ORGANIC SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island    2018    $19.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.

    259770    JOSEPH CATTIN HATSCHBOURG GEWURZTRAMINER    AC Alsace Grand Cru    2016    $26.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.

    438796    DOMAINE DE LA BAUME ELISABETH VIOGNIER    IGP Pays d'Oc    2018    $16.95    ANDREW PELLER IMPORT AGENCY

    409706    VILLA WOLF GEWÜRZTRAMINER    Qualitätswein    2017    $14.95    SELECT WINE MERCHANTS INC.

    395756    NALS MARGREID PUNGGL PINOT GRIGIO    DOC Südtirol - Alto Adige    2016    $29.95    MONDO VINO

    37648    ZENATO PINOT GRIGIO    IGT delle Venezie    2018    $17.95    JOSEPH CIPELLI WINES & SPIRITS

    12088    COTNARI FETEASCA ALBA    DOC Cotnari    2016    $13.95    CARTO ENTERPRISE

    131540    FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $19.95    FEATHERSTONE WINERY

    145888    CLOSSON CHASE CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR    VQA Prince Edward County    2016    $34.95    CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARDS INC.

    381327    CASA-DEA RESERVE CABERNET FRANC    VQA Prince Edward County    2015    $26.95    STELLAR WINE & SPIRITS INC.

    553321    MISSION HILL RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON    BC VQA Okanagan Valley    2017    $29.95    MARK ANTHONY WINE & SPIRITS

    1602    FREEMARK ABBEY MERLOT    Napa Valley    2014    $44.95    BREAKTHRU BEVERAGE CANADA INC.

    281758    FREI BROTHERS RESERVE ZINFANDEL    Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County    2016    $26.95    E&J GALLO WINERY CANADA LTD.

    369959    EDNA VALLEY VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Central Coast    2017    $22.95    E&J GALLO WINERY CANADA LTD.

    652883    BELLE GLOS CLARK & TELEPHONE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR    Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County    2017    $59.95    ANDREW PELLER IMPORT AGENCY

    95752    TREFETHEN FAMILY VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley    2015    $79.95    VINEXX

    704353    IRONSTONE MERLOT    Lodi    2017    $17.95    LIFFORD WINE & SPIRITS

    25080    HESS SELECT CABERNET SAUVIGNON    North Coast    2016    $24.95    LIFFORD WINE & SPIRITS

    508184    LEESE-FITCH ZINFANDEL    California    2016    $21.95    WOODMAN WINES & SPIRITS

    209874    COLUMBIA CREST H3 MERLOT    Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley    2016    $19.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    70573    14 HANDS WINERY CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Columbia Valley    2016    $17.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    29280    TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES RESERVA MALBEC    Mendoza    2017    $19.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC

    512202    LOS HAROLDOS ESTATE BLEND    Mendoza    2017    $14.95    M.ANDREW FINE WINES,BEERS&SPIRITS

    166298    LA POSTA PIZZELLA MALBEC    Mendoza    2017    $15.95    TRIALTO WINE GROUP LTD.

    542183    RAVANAL GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Colchagua Valley    2016    $15.95    LAMPRECHT INTERNATIONAL

    469270    INDÓMITA DUETTE PREMIUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON/CARMENÈRE    Maipo Costa    2016    $19.95    RARE EARTH WINES

    661    CHATEAU LOS BOLDOS VIEILLES VIGNES CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Cachapoal Andes    2017    $20.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC

    138818    TAHBILK CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Certified carbon neutral, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria    2016    $22.95    GRAPE EXPECTATIONS WINE AGENCY

    525931    CHÂTEAUX VIEUX CHEVROL    AC Lalande de Pomerol    2015    $29.95    WOODMAN WINES & SPIRITS

    557660    CHÂTEAU LE PUY EMILIEN    AC Côtes de Bordeaux - Francs    2015    $31.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.

    320499    BASTIDE MIRAFLORS SYRAH/VIEILLES VIGNES GRENACHE    AP Côtes du Roussillon    2017    $19.95    GLENCAIRN WINE MERCHANTS

    143578    TELIANI VALLEY MEDIUM-SWEET RED    Alazani Valley, Kakheti    2017    $15.95    BLACK SEA WINE

    262956    DONNACHIARA IRPINIA AGLIANICO    DOC    2015    $24.95    THE CASE FOR WINE

    639799    ROBERTO SAROTTO RISERVA BARBARESCO    DOCG    2013    $33.95    GARAGE WINE COMPANY

    508630    JERZU MARGHIA CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA    DOC    2017    $17.95    FRONTIER WINE MERCHANTS

    487090    TORNATORE NERELLO MASCALESE/NERELLO CAPPUCCIO    DOC Etna Rosso    2017    $24.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC

    85209    IL MOLINO DI GRACE CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2014    $19.95    FRONTIER WINE MERCHANTS

    353201    RUFFINO RISERVA DUCALE ORO GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2014    $47.95    ARTERRA WINES CANADA INC.

    473116    PIETRANERA RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO    DOCG    2012    $80.95    FRONTIER WINE MERCHANTS

    993360    VICCHIOMAGGIO AGOSTINO PETRI RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2015    $29.95    SIGNATURE WINES & SPIRITS

    23259    TOMMASI RAFAÈL VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE    DOC    2016    $19.95    UNIVINS AND SPIRITS CANADA INC.

    159400    DUE TORRI RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE    DOC    2016    $20.95    VIN VINO WINE MERCHANTS INC.

    379883    HERDADE GRANDE GERAÇÕES COLHEITA SELECCIONADA    Vinho Regional Alentejano    2013    $22.95    VINYA

    574426    SEÑORÍO DE BARAHONDA CARRO    DO Yecla    2017    $14.95    WINEONLINE MARKETING COMPANY LTD

    692780    R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA CUBILLO CRIANZA    DOCa Rioja    2010    $31.95    JOHN HANNA & SONS LIMITED

    312140    VILLACRECES PRUNO    DO Ribera del Duero    2016    $22.95    TRIALTO WINE GROUP LTD.

    100164    ANDREW PELLER SIGNATURE SERIES VIDAL ICEWINE    Oak aged, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario    2017    $45.95    ANDREW PELLER LIMITED

    652149    ANDREW PELLER SIGNATURE SERIES RIESLING ICEWINE    VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario    2016    $49.95    ANDREW PELLER LIMITED

    343020    BELLE GLOS OEIL DE PERDRIX PINOT NOIR BLANC ROSÉ    Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County    2018    $29.95    ANDREW PELLER IMPORT AGENCY

    74617    DOMAINES OTT CHÂTEAU DE SELLE ROSÉ    Cru classé, AP Côtes de Provence    2018    $51.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS

    981027    LOUIS ROEDERER BRUT CHAMPAGNE    AC    2012    $104.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS

    440891    LOUIS ROEDERER ET PHILIPPE STARCK BRUT NATURE CHAMPAGNE    AC    2009    $117.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS

    695577    IONA SAUVIGNON BLANC    Elgin Valley    2018    $29.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC

    10576    LEYDA LOT PINOT NOIR    Leyda Valley    2015    $29.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    648501    MARATRAY-DUBREUIL VIEILLES VIGNES LADOIX    AC    2017    $38.95    WINE SOLUTIONS

    973719    DOMAINE COURBIS LES ROYES SAINT-JOSEPH    AC    2017    $52.95    M.C.O.

    688119    POGGIO IL CASTELLARE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO    DOCG    2013    $72.95    NATURAL VINES                   

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* NEW RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS...

...are the hottest trend in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

 

 

 

3.GENNARO'S PASTA PERFECTO! (Interlink Books, 2019, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-62371-926-5 $30 USD hardbound) is by Gennaro Contaldo, He has appeared on many cooking shows, most notably his own "Two Greedy Italians" on PBS. He has long owned Passione the London UK restaurant. He is reputed to have taught Jamie Oliver all he knows about Italian cooking (Oliver says: "His talent for cooking and storytelling changed my life and food forever"). His previous books for Interlink were about Italian baking and faster cooking. This one has 100 preps to create an Italian feast in 40 minutes or less. It will call for a larger Italian pantry (extended to the refrigerator, to the freezer, and to fresh produce that keeps for a bit, such as salad greens, herbs, bell peppers) to make sure that all ingredients are on hand. It is arranged by course: salads, soups, pasta, et al through to desserts. There are primer chapters on Italian fast cooking and simple sauces. As he says, "gone are the days when women stayed at home" and made their own pasta or soaked their own beans. Try prosciutto with roasted apples and pears or cavatelli with sausage, mushrooms, and sun-dried tomatoes – or even hake with mixed potatoes and red onion agrodolce. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 89

 

 

4.CRU OYSTER BAR NANTUCKET COOKBOOK (St. Martin's Griffen, 2019, 294 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-19365-0 $40 US hardbound) is by Erin Zircher (executive chef at Cru), Jane Stoddard and Carlos Hildalgo (both managing partners), with Martha W. Murphy as the focusing food writer. It's arranged by seasonal topic, from waterfront lunch and sailing, summertime grilling, beach cruising, through to sunsets at summer's end. Along the way there are sections on the raw bar, cocktails, Nantucket Bay scallops, Christmas/New Year's, with multiple indexes by occasion (picnic, grilling, brunch, etc.) and by category (starters, mains, sides, soups, sandwiches, etc.)– with page references. At the end there is a general index to topics and to all of the recipes. Highlights include crispy fried oysters, crudo scallops, clam chowder, and pear tarte tatin. The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 89

 

 

 

5.THE FIGHTER'S KITCHEN (Alpha, 2019, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-8373-7 $19.99 US paperbound) is by champion professional boxer/kickboxer Chris Algieri. He also has an MA in clinical nutrition, and is certified as a sports nutritionist. This book is all about fighters fueling their bodies with precise nutrients delivered at specific times to help them achieve their functional physiques. If you are one of them, then this is obviously the book for you. Or if you just want to keep in shape. He's got 100 preps for meals and snacks, with macro-nutrient breakdowns to easily see the calories, carbs, protein and fat in every recipe. Weekly meal plans and detailed shopping lists complete the package. Great layout graphics. Yet the book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. It just doesn't seem right to have ingredients listed in avoirdupois and nutrients listed in metric. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

6.ATSUKO'S JAPANESE KITCHEN (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2019, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-081-9 $19.95 USD hardbound) is by Atsuko Ikeda, a Japanese chef, writer, and food photographer. Her Japanese cookery courses sell out in Shoreditch London UK. She had previously written a sushi book. Here she promotes a wider variety of home-0cooked Japanese comfort food. These are all umami-rich dishes that are commonly found in the Japanese home and restaurant: gyoza, ramen, katsu curry, teriyaki. Basics, of course, are covered, followed by  apps, soups, noodles, one plate meals, sides, dressings, and desserts. Special occasion meals are given a separate chapter. She opens with the "secrets of Japanese cuisine" and the Golden Rule of Five (tastes, colours, methods, meal layout). The larder and tools section is next, followed by the preps themselves. By tomorrow night, you could be enjoying goma senbei (sesame snaps with miso caramel sauce) or matcha no tiramisu. Soy simmered lemon sole or simmered beef and tomatoes on rice are good for the carnivore eater. The book could have been improved if it also used more volume metrics in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK......

 

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

3.AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS (Lonely Planet Food, 2019, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-78868-131-5 $19.99 USD hardbound) is a very well put together anthology of global food from food trucks. About three dozen writers were involved in listing food from chefs on the road in Berlin, Cape Town, Hong Kong, Lima, London, Melbourne, New York City, Portland, San Francisco and more. Veggie options are clearly marked. The arrangement is geographical by country, beginning with Europe and moving through Africa, Middle East, Asia, the Americas, and Oceania. For each there are photos and a brief profile plus social media sites (how else are you going to find them?). Then comes a recipe, such as spicy Killary lamb samosas, langoustine roll, sea bass ceviche, mollete of roasted pork, pakora wrap – all of them converted to home production for "serves four". The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 89

 

 

 

4.FIESTAS (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-328-56755-0 $19.99 USD hardbound) is by Marcella Valldolid, a longtime Food Network host and judge. She's written three other cookbooks, details at www.chefmarcela.com Here she covers 75 Mexican-style cocktails and apps for an opener to meals, or even a meal in itself. The book is in three parts: drinks, nibbles, and sweet. It is all pretty basic but usefull compiled into one book, along with advice on entertaining. Preps include Picadillo Lettuce Cups and a crudites platter with chimichurri and some jalpeno-cilantro aioli.

The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 87

 

 

5.MY GREEK TABLE (St. Martin's Griffin, 2018, 386 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-16637-1 $44.99 CAD hardbound) is by Diane Kochilas, cooking school owner and host/chef of My Greek Table on public US television. This book accompanies the TV series, with recipes and stories about her family gatherings and school in Greece. Cooks would appreciate an avocado-tahini spread or a kale-apple-feta salad. The Aegean Island stuffed lamb will leave you, well, stuffed. It's arranged by ingredient or course, beginning with breakfast and moving on to dips, meze, salads, breads, veggies, beans, ancient grains, soups – and then some mains. There is also a good summary at the back of the state of Greek winemaking today plus its unique grape varietals. This is followed by a resources list for Greek food.

The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 89

 

 

6.STEAK AND CAKE (Workman Publishing, 2019, 260 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-8574-1 $22.95 USD paperbound) is by Elizabeth Karmel, a grilling and BBQ expert. She was the founding executive chef of the Hill Country restaurants in New York, and she has written other BBQ/grilling cookbooks. Here she has 100+ recipes for steak and for cake. She's paired various steaks with a related dessert, as, for example, "Steak and truffled eggs with latte cake with hazelnut glaze" or "Porterhouse for two and My mother's freshly grated coconut cake". It works, but it will stuff you. Not for the faint of heart. There are 35 combos, with recipes for sides and other desserts. At the end she gives us the conditions for side dishes (some of the sides can be apps), a primer on steaks, and a primer on cakes. Not everything is a steak: there are also some surf and turf, sandwiches, kebabs, stroganoff, tacos, and burgers. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

 

7.THE BRISKET CHRONICLES (Workman Publishing, 2019, 278pages, ISBN 978-1-5235-0548-7 $19.95 USD paperbound) is by Steven Raichlen, who has been writing about BBQ for decades. He is probably best known for his public television cooking series on BBQ. He's also won five Beard Awards and three IACP Awards. Here he focuses on beef brisket to be smoked, braised, cured, grilled and barbecued, and then presented in different formats such as Texas kahuna, jerk brisket, Korean-styled, corned beef, pastrami, Passover, burgers, and tacos. Of particular note is the salty-sweet kettle popcorn with burnt ends. There's about 60+ recipes here, and sides and sauces are included. There are profiles of other BBQ competitors and some sourcing of their recipes too. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 90

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW

 

THE NEW RUM (The Countryman Press, 2018, 333 pages, ISBN 978-1-68268-000-1 $25.95 USD hardbound) is by Bryce T. Bauer, an award winning drink journalist who has also written often about bootleggers. It's subtitle is "a modern guide to the spirit of the Americas"; the book expands on a previously written article entitled "Rum's Revenge". Bauer tells a historical and cultural history of rum, from its origins in the Caribbean to its value as an inexpensive vacation seaside drink to its modern day craft revival. This is a producer-focused drink guide covering dozens of the best producers in the world" Martinique rhum agricole to Barbados aged sippers and the Dominican aged sippers.  Bauer makes sure that rum now has its time. Good quality colour photos.

Audience and level of use: rum fans and those who like spirit cultural histories.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: rum punch, el dorado mai tai, rum negroni, rabo de galo, and navy grog.

The downside to this book: I wanted more cocktails.

The upside to this book: because it is time.

Quality/Price Rating: 89

 

 

3.THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BEER COCKTAILS (Skyhorse Publishing, 2018, 114 pages, ISBN 978-1-5107-2821-6 $16.99 USD hardbound) is by Jon and Lindsay Yeager, founders of PourTaste a Nashville bar consulting firm and festival organizers. Here they have 50 creative recipes for combining beer and spirits. There is a history of this mixture, and they present it well, followed by a two page description of each of the cocktails, with photos. For example, Southern Drum calls for Woodford Reserve rye, Woodford Reserve Sassafras & Sorghum bitters, and Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout. Sounds intriguing but difficult to do in Canada. More reasonable is Mississippi Porter Punch which uses bourbon, VSOP cognac, dark rum, Angostura bitters, and Samuel Smith Taddy Porter. You can fudge on the porter and use almost any dark thick beer, if you have to. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: the curious and the specialized cocktail pursuer.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seersucker, printers alley punch, frozen brandy crusta, fancy Tokyo tippler, sunset kingdom.

The downside to this book: particular beers are specified, and if you don't have it, then you must substitute or do without somehow.

The upside to this book: great conversation piece.

Quality/Price Rating: 86

 

 

 

4.NOW & AGAIN (Chronicle Books, 2018, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-6492-1 $35 USD hardbound) is by Julia Turshen, author of cookbooks Feed the Resistance and Small Victories. It comes with log rolling by Yotam Ottolenghi and others. The emphasis here is on recipes and menus that can for the basis of endless ideas for reinventing leftovers. For example, shrimp with tequila and lime can be shrimp kimchi pancakes next time. 150 preps are sorted into 20 menus built around easy to do food that can then convert any leftovers to yet another menu. In our house, any remains after leftover use are known as "holdovers". The book is arranged by season, with five menus for each. There is an index to recipes by type (e.g. breakfast, salads, soups, sauces, etc.), further menu suggestions, a kitchen primer on tools and ingredients, plus a general index. Preparations have their ingredients listed mainly in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: beginners, those who want ideas for leftover usage.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted red cabbage with anchovy and pine nuts; steak and kimchi quesadillas; lamb burgers with grilled red onions; chicken tikka tacos; mango with cardamom syrup and pistachios; champagne and honey-poached pears.

The downside to this book: each menu comes with a time line for what has to be done a month ahead, a week ahead, etc. This can be a problem without kitchen rigour.

The upside to this book: good philosophy that also cuts own on food waste.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

 

5.HAPPY FOOD (Hardie Grant Books, 2018, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-78488-157-3 $29.99 USD hardbound) is by Bettina Campolucci Bordi, who grew up in Tanzania with Norwegian, Danish and Bulgarian heritage. Over her catering/event management career as a freelance chef she had some health problems that seemed to go away when she shifted to a gluten-free plant-based diet. She now writes about and only deals with largely vegan foods. Here she calls it "Happy Food" since all of it is fresh and fast and you feel so good after eating. It's divided into categories of breakfast, home alone (smaller portions, less wasteful, fewer leftovers), quick and simple, feast and sharing, dips and sides, and sweets. Her pantry is called "favourite basics", for dishes that can be made from scratch and stored for a long period of time. Menu plans are given at the back.

Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: vegans, vegetarians.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: spicy Thai noodles with creamy peanut dressing; pasta pesto and nut parmesan; sweet potato cakes with dill and cashew yoghurt; marinated maple and turmeric-roasted cauliflower with yogurt sauce; rosemary and garlic focaccia; Italian stuffed veggies.

The downside to this book: no conversion charts

The upside to this book: lots of icons for each dish (batch cookable, freezable, lasts for 3+ or 5+ days in the fridge, nut-free, etc.)

Quality/Price Rating: 87

 

 

 

 

6.CAULIFLOWER (Hardie Grant Books, 2018, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-78488-178-8 $19.99 USD hardbound) is by food writer Oz Telem of www.thekitchencoach.co.il. He's got 70 preps to roast, rice, mash, bake, steam and fry one of the world's healthiest veggies. One of its features is its ability to substitute for other ingredients, such as a low-carb replacement for rice, mash up like potatoes, or be part of meaty main dishes. It can give tofu a run for its money in emulation: cauliflower wings, cauliflower pakoras, cauliflower ragu, and gluten-free dishes. The book is arranged by type of food – salads, pickles, starters, sides, patties, fritters, soups,, and international specialties. The book was originally crowd-funded and published in Hebrew – this is its first commercial publication. The index is arranged by food groups, so there are plenty of vegan recipes, fast recipes (under 30 minutes), dairy recipes, egg recipes, and gluten-free recipes. There are four meat preps and three fish recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed mainly in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: cauliflower lovers, vegetarians

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: braised cauliflower greens; cauliflower and spinach shakshooka; cauliflower tabbouleh; kohlrabi and apple slaw; seared cauliflower with lemon butter; creamy cauliflower mash.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for AUGUST 17, 2019

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for AUGUST 17, 2019

 

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com

 

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

 

NOTE: The first portion  is based on my sampling of the table wines chosen by the LCBO from this release for tasting. That presentation is about 50+  different labels out of about 125 released every two weeks. These wines are basically those that fit the categories of  any of the Featured Themes, Wines of the Month, Local Talent, and "new" -- wines that the LCBO has ordered in sufficient quantities for the Ontario marketplace. Not put out for us are the re-orders (even though they may be of a different vintage) , ISDs, or the expensive wines.  Thus, my report comes from a restricted database. I did not taste every one of these 50+ category wines, nor did I rate several of the wines I did sample because they did not seem to be of particularly good value in terms of their price.

 

NOTE: The second part (at the end) is a simple listing of  those wines that were NOT presented to the media, and are given here simply as a record of  what sampling I could not do. I have left in the name of the agency, in fairness to all.

 

PART ONE:  The "best" wines of a reduced tasting --

 

THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FIND --

 

Fizz+644773    COOPER'S HAWK NORTH BLOCK SPARKLING    Charmat method, VQA Ontario    2016    $23.95.  12%ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.5

 

Under $20

=========

W+277228    CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES OLD VINES RIESLING    VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake    2015    $18.95  MVC/QPR: 89

W+483958    LAKEVIEW CELLARS SAUVIGNON BLANC    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $18.95  12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

W+115329    CINCO SENTIDOS RESERVA TORRONTÉS    Mendoza    2017    $16.95     12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+ 10411    MOUNTADAM EDEN VALLEY CHARDONNAY    Eden Valley, South Australia    2017    $19.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+647735    WINZER KREMS GRÜNER VELTLINER    DAC Kremstal    2017    $15.95     12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+667766    MARQUIS DE GOULAINE VOUVRAY    AP    2017    $19.95     12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5

W+665992    DR. SIEMENS HERRENBERG RIESLING SPÄTLESE FEINHERB    Prädikatswein    2009    $19.95 10% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+562454    INDOMITO FALANGHINA DEL BENEVENTANO    IGT    2018    $14.95     12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5

W+105908    EDETÀRIA VIA TERRA GARNATXA BLANCA    DO Terra Alta    2017    $16.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+10704    WESTMOUNT PINOT NOIR    Willamette Valley    2015    $19.95     13.8% ABV, MVC/QPR:  88.5

R+107102    SAGELANDS MERLOT    Columbia Valley    2016    $19.95     13.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+272575    GÉRARD BERTRAND GRAND TERROIR TAUTAVEL    AP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages    2016    $19.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+591974    DI MAJO NORANTE SANGIOVESE    IGT Terre degli Osci    2017    $17.95

13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5

R+232637    BENMARCO CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Los Árboles, Uco Valley, Mendoza    2016    $18.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+492736    FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA CABERNET FRANC    Mendoza    2016    $18.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+114983    H J. FABRE BARREL SELECTION MALBEC    Patagonia    2016    $18.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+271205    MANOS NEGRAS MALBEC    Uco Valley, Mendoza    2017    $17.95    14 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+10435   EMILIANA SIGNOS DE ORIGEN LA CANTERA GARNACHA/MOURVÈDRE/SYRAH    DO Colchagua Valley    2015    $19.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+638791    JUAN CARRAU TANNAT    Las Violetas, Canelones    2017    $15.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+121731    LUCIANO ARDUINI FONTANA DEL FONGO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO    DOC    2017    $15.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+122002    PROVOLO TENUTA CA'NOVE VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE    DOC    2014    $17.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+646083    CARMIM TERRA LENTA PREMIUM REGUENGOS    DOC Alentejo    2016    $13.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+10638    BARAHONDA ORGANIC MONASTRELL/MERLOT    DO Yecla    2017    $14.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+10635    MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS SPECIAL SELECTION OLD VINE GARNACHA    DOP Cariñena    2016    $16.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

 

Over $20

=========

W+644740    LEANING POST WISMER-FOXCROFT VINEYARD RIESLING    VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2016    $24.95 12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5

W+644732    LUNDY MANOR CHARDONNAY    VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2016    $25.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

W+688077    SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY    Finca Dominio Gualta, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Mendoza    2016    $20.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+649855    JEAN BOUCHARD PETIT-CHABLIS    AC Petit Chablis    2017    $23.95     12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+113191    EL ESTECO MALBEC Calchaquí Valley    2015    $21.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+10042    VALLEY OF THE MOON CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Sonoma County    2015    $29.95     MVC/QPR: 89

R+ 668749    TRAPICHE COSTA & PAMPA PINOT NOIR    Chapadmalal, Buenos Aires    2017    $23.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+477315    COLOMÉ ESTATE MALBEC    Calchaquí Valley, Salta    2016    $24.95     14.9%ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+647974    CHÂTEAU PONTET-FUMET    AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru    2015    $34.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+645200    DOMAINE BELLE CUVÉE LOUIS BELLE CROZES-HERMITAGE    AC    2015    $43.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+646901    DESTINO FIFTH EMPIRE RED BLEND    DOC Douro    2015    $22.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+648204    HAZAÑA VIÑAS VIEJAS    DOCa Rioja    2014    $21.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

 

 

PART TWO: The "rest" of the release [not offered for sampling by media] with agents --

 

    317842    FORREST THE DOCTOR'S SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018  Marlborough South Island $19.95  ABCON INTERNATIONAL WINE MERCHANTS

     485656    LES VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON BLANC    AC    2017    $15.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    366948    FONTANAFREDDA GAVI DI GAVI    DOCG    2017    $19.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    316968    QUINTA DA LIXA POUCO COMUM ALVARINHO    Vinho Regional Minho    2017    $14.95    GLENCAIRN WINE MERCHANTS

    645119    PACO & LOLA PRIME ALBARIÑO    DO Rías Baixas    2016    $27.95    AZUREAU WINE AGENCY

    117960    CREEKSIDE LAURA'S RED    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2016    $24.95    HOBBS & COMPANY

    86363    WILDASS RED    VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake    2016    $19.95    STRATUS VINEYARDS

    613059    EASTDELL PINOT NOIR    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $15.95    TRAJECTORY BEVERAGE PARTNERS

    942599    RAVENSWOOD OLD VINE ZINFANDEL    Lodi    2016    $21.95    ARTERRA WINES CANADA INC.

    186171    DECOY CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Sonoma County    2016    $37.95    ROGERS & COMPANY

    10098    CHOP SHOP CABERNET SAUVIGNON    California    2017    $19.95    ROGERS & COMPANY

    380188    LAKE SONOMA WINERY CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Sonoma County    2016    $34.95    HOBBS & COMPANY

    486043    PRIMUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Maipo Valley    2015    $19.95    ROGERS & COMPANY

    89599    MAXWELL SILVER HAMMER SHIRAZ    McLaren Vale, South Australia    2016    $19.95    ALTO VINO

    295873    YALUMBA THE STRAPPER GSM    Barossa Valley, South Australia    2016    $19.95    BREAKTHRU BEVERAGE CANADA INC.

    327106    MOLLYDOOKER TWO LEFT FEET    South Australia    2016    $31.95    B AND W WINES

    142398    WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Coonawarra & Clare Valley, South Australia    2016    $24.95    VIN VINO WINE MERCHANTS INC.

    522342    ZONTE'S FOOTSTEP HILLS ARE ALIVE SHIRAZ    Adelaide Hills, South Australia    2017    $23.95    CRU WINE MERCHANTS

    743989    CHAPEL HILL SHIRAZ    McLaren Vale, South Australia    2016    $28.95    THE CASE FOR WINE

    590414    OYSTER BAY PINOT NOIR    Marlborough, South Island    2017    $20.95    DELEGAT CANADA LIMITED

    349308    CHÂTEAU PEY LA TOUR RÉSERVE DU CHÂTEAU    AC Bordeaux Supérieur    2016    $21.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    647933    CHÂTEAU BEAU-SITE    AC Saint-Estèphe    2015    $51.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.

    404285    CHÂTEAU PLAISANCE    AC Bordeaux Supérieur    2006    $19.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC

    123489    CHÂTEAU HAUCHAT    AC Fronsac    2016    $17.95    CONNEXION OENOPHILIA

    368134    STÉPHANE AVIRON VIEILLES VIGNES MOULIN-À-VENT    AC    2016    $23.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC

    65995    DOMAINE BONNARD SANCERRE RED    AC    2016    $26.95    M.C.O.

    370254    CHÂTEAU DE SÉGURE VIEILLES VIGNES FITOU    AP    2017    $17.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS

    276956    HALOS DE JUPITER CÔTES DU RHÔNE    AC    2017    $17.95    HALPERN ENTERPRISES

    224915    DOMAINES ANDRÉ AUBERT VISAN    AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages    2016    $15.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC

    493403    DOMAINE COMTE DE LAUZE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE    AC    2016    $41.95    LAMPRECHT INTERNATIONAL

    102954    CHÂTEAU LA CAMINADE MALBEC/MERLOT    AC Cahors    2017    $19.95    THE CASE FOR WINE

    142109    TBILVINO ALAZANI VALLEY RED    Kakheti    2018    $15.95    BANQPAY INTERNATIONAL

    908079    BENI DI BATASIOLO NEBBIOLO    DOC Langhe    2017    $17.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC

    181396    PECCHENINO SAN GIUSEPPE BAROLO    DOCG    2014    $66.95    THE CASE FOR WINE

    569954    ROMIO PRIMITIVO    IGT Puglia    2017    $13.95    DU CHASSE WINES & SPIRITS

    730804    LAMOLE GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2012    $34.95    VIN VINO WINE MERCHANTS INC.

    644997    BANFI POGGIO ALLE MURA ROSSO DI MONTALCINO    DOC    2016    $28.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS

    713719    VAL DI SUGA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO    DOCG    2013    $54.95    CHURCHILL CELLARS LTD.

    735597    ORENO    IGT Toscana    2016    $86.95    TRIALTO WINE GROUP LTD.

    121160    VILLA TRASQUA CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2015    $18.95    FRONTIER WINE MERCHANTS

    517029    IL PALAGIO MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE    IGT Toscana    2016    $24.95    LE SOMMELIER INC.

    487074    TENUTA DI GRACCIANO DELLA SETA VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO    DOCG    2015    $29.95    NEWGENWINES

    356089    CONDE VALDEMAR CRIANZA TEMPRANILLO    DOCa Rioja    2015    $16.95    WINE GURU SELECTION INC

    368720    SUE-ANN STAFF VIDAL ICEWINE    VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario    2016    $24.95    SUE-ANN STAFF ESTATE WINERY

    498758    GAME CHANGER THE MEMORY ROSÉ    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2018    $14.95    VINELAND ESTATE WINES LTD.,

    409771    DOMAINE DE TRIENNES ROSÉ    IGP Méditerranée    2018    $19.95    HALPERN ENTERPRISES

    450908    XAVIER VIGNON CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROSÉ    AP    2018    $16.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.

    496919    CHÂTEAU DE NAGES VIEILLES VIGNES ROSÉ    AC Costières de Nîmes    2018    $19.95    DU CHASSE WINES & SPIRITS

    451146    DUCA CATEMARIO COLLEZIONE PRIVATA PINOT GRIGIO ROSÉ    IGT delle Venezie    2018    $14.95    GLENCAIRN WINE MERCHANTS

    747386    LOUIS ROEDERER PREMIER BRUT CHAMPAGNE    AC        $485.00    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS

    994939    GREYWACKE MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS    Marlborough, South Island    2016    $28.95    CONNEXION OENOPHILIA

    636753    CHÂTEAU D'ARCHE    2e cru, AC Sauternes    2010    $40.95    CONNEXION OENOPHILIA

    665950    SELBACH OSTER RIESLING KABINETT    Qualitätswein    2017    $29.95    TRIALTO WINE GROUP LTD.

    336644    LUNAE VERMENTINO    DOC Colli di Luni    2017    $36.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.

    252304    MATETIC VINEYARDS EQ SYRAH    DO Casablanca    2014    $34.95    H.H.D. IMPORTS

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH: The Nimble Cook, by Ronna Walsh

THE NIMBLE COOK (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019, 400 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-93550-1 $30 USD hardbound) is by Ronna Welsh, owner of a NYC cooking school The Purple Kale Kitchenworks. She specializes in teaching cooks to strategize efficiently while cooking simply and creatively. Notable log rollers include Jacques Pepin, Amanda Hesser, and Dorie Greenspan. Here she has a book of great meals that make the most of your ingredients. She rides the crest of books that use the whole food item in cooking, with no waste. She tries to get you to learn new techniques for releasing flavour so you eventually cook without recipes, putting the ingredients first. She cleverly uses end papers of the book to layout graphs of cooking chicken, herbs, pork, and citrus, showing relationships created by herb-infusions, roasted whole lemons, sausage, and chicken stock – for example. It is all arranged by type of ingredient, from aromatics through leaves, stalks, shoots, heads, bulbs, summer veggies, winter roots, mushrooms, apples, lemons, fish, poultry, meat, pasta and polenta, and grains. She concludes with a pantry: eggs, bread, wine, vinegar, dried fruit, nuts and seeds, rubs, butters, condiments, and cheese. The chapters of ingredients are sub-arranged by seasons. She then gives us some fave preps for each (called "starting points"), followed by ways to use these preps with other dishes (which she calls "explorations"). The starting points should see you through more than one dish, thus allowing you to get the ingredients ready for another use. She says, "Your kitchen starts to sustain itself". Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but the book could have been so improved if it also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart.

Audience and level of use: cooks, innovators.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seared sausage with julienned celeriac; pulled pork and pickled squash sandwich; cabbage and green lentils with orange vinaigrette; sauteed unravelled Brussels sprouts with caraway, lemon and dill; braised chicken legs with rhubarb compote and sun-dried tomatoes; spiced lamb meatballs with chickpeas, pickled parsley and yogurt.

The downside to this book: publishers should please think about ROW (rest of the world) when dealing with measurements. Of the developed countries, the USA stands alone with avoirdupois measurements. At least quality US bakers use metric in scaling their recipes.

The upside to this book: good material on how to use food that used to be thrown away.

Quality/Price Rating: 91.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH: That's the Spirit, by Jonathan Ray

 

THAT'S THE SPIRIT (Hardie Grant, 2019, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-78713-264-1 $22.99 USD hardbound) is by Jonathan Ray, who has been drinks/wine editor of the Spectator (UK), GQ,  and the Daily Telegraph in his lifetime. Plus, he's the author of several wine books. He's selected 100 of the best spirits, liqueurs and digestifs to drink with style. His coverage is alphabetical, from Absolut Elyx Single Estate Handcrafted Vodka through Pimm's No. 6 Cup to Wynand Fockink Citroen Likeur. Each is described on a page, with a bottle shot. There are features throughout, such as material about cocktails through the ages, how spirits are made, cognac, essentials for a home cocktail, mixers, top international cocktail bars (including one from Toronto, BarChef, with its 5000 bitters), and, of course, recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. His book comes complete with comic quotes from great drinkers, old advertisements, an alphabetical index, and a listing of the 100 spirits by type (Scotch, Cognac, Calvados, Grappa, Rum, et al.

Audience and level of use: bartenders, drinkers, millennials, reference libraries.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Classics – The Old Fashioned, The Dry Martini, The Manhattan, The Sidecar, Margarita, The Daiquiri/Mohito, The Negroni, et al.

The downside to this book: what, Fernet Branca did not make the cut? WOW

The upside to this book: a good collection of 100 bottles for your bar, if you have the room or if you are a restaurant/hotel bar.

Quality/Price Rating: 91.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for AUGUST 3, 2019

 

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for AUGUST 3, 2019

 

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com

 

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

 

NOTE: The first portion  is based on my sampling of the table wines chosen by the LCBO from this release for tasting. That presentation is about 50+  different labels out of about 125 released every two weeks. These wines are basically those that fit the categories of  any of the Featured Themes, Wines of the Month, Local Talent, and "new" -- wines that the LCBO has ordered in sufficient quantities for the Ontario marketplace. Not put out for us are the re-orders (even though they may be of a different vintage) , ISDs, or the expensive wines.  Thus, my report comes from a restricted database. I did not taste every one of these 50+ category wines, nor did I rate several of the wines I did sample because they did not seem to be of particularly good value in terms of their price.

 

NOTE: The second part (at the end) is a simple listing of  those wines that were NOT presented to the media, and are given here simply as a record of  what sampling I could not do. I have left in the name of the agency, in fairness to all.

 

PART ONE:  The "best" of a reduced tasting based on --

 

THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --

 

Sherry+645267    HIDALGO FINO SECO SHERRY    DO Jerez $21.95 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

 

Under $20

=========

W+645770    VITESE GRILLO    DOC Sicilia    2017    $14.95     12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+149542    DELTA ESTATE CHARDONNAY    Marlborough, South Island    2017    $19.95      13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

W+536276    HUNTAWAY RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island    2017    $19.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

W+651711    CEDERBERG CHENIN BLANC    WO Cederberg    2018    $18.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89

W+355438    DE WETSHOF LESCA ESTATE CHARDONNAY    WO Robertson    2018    $24.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

W+668848    CHÂTEAU VERMONT PRESTIGE BLANC    AC Entre-Deux-Mers    2017    $14.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

W+648451    BLASON DE BOURGOGNE    AC Mâcon-Villages    2016    $17.95     12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

W+644831    CANTI ESTATE MOSCATO D'ASTI    DOCG    2018    $14.95    5.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.5

R+668335    ARGENTO RESERVA CABERNET FRANC    Mendoza    2015    $14.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+ 652693    STRANDVELD FIRST SIGHTING SHIRAZ    WO Cape South Coast    2016    $14.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+667238    CHÂTEAU NODEAU    AC Côtes de Bourg    2016    $14.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+168716    M. CHAPOUTIER LES VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES    AC    2017    $15.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

R+277079    LE CIRQUE GRENACHE NOIR/CARIGNAN/SYRAH    IGP Côtes Catalanes    2015    $16.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+300004    AMASTUOLA PRIMITIVO    IGP Puglia    2015    $15.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91

R+464412    ESPINO RESERVA ESPECIAL CARMENÈRE    DO Central Valley    2017    $15.95   MVC/QPR:  89

R+646919    ALMEIDA GARRETT ENTRE SERRAS    DOC Beira Interior    2015    $12.95     13.5 % ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+70730                    HERDADE SÃO MIGUEL COLHEITA SELECCIONADA TINTO    Vinho Regional Alentejano    2017    $17.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+391896    SEIN    DO Alicante    2011    $16.95      15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92.5

 

Over $20

=========

W+441089    ROMBAUER CARNEROS CHARDONNAY  Carneros    2017    $64.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.5

W+220343    MER SOLEIL SILVER UNOAKED CHARDONNAY    Monterey County $24.95  14.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

W+665919    BOEDECKER CELLARS FINNIGAN HILL VINEYARD CHARDONNAY    Chehalem Mountain, Willamette Valley    2015    $29.95     13.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+10044                    MARTIN RAY NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Napa Valley    2016    $44.95 14.6% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+651810    SPIER 21 GABLES CABERNET SAUVIGNON    WO Stellenbosch    2014    $39.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+644708    CHÂTEAU BEAUSÉJOUR    AC Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion    2015    $37.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+666602    CHÂTEAU LA PICHERIE    AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion    2016    $26.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88

R+922054    SILVIO NARDI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO    DOCG    2013    $50.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+377986    SAN SILVESTRO PATRES BAROLO    DOCG    2014    $35.95    15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90

R+964221    LE VOLTE DELL'ORNELLAIA    IGT Toscana    2017    $29.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89

R+630947    INSURGENTE VINHO TINTO    DOC Dão    2015    $17.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92

 

PART TWO: The "rest" of the release [not offered for sampling by media] --

 

    414896    SEYRINGER HIMBEER RASPBERRY LIQUEUR    Austria        $23.95    B. COJOCARU AGENCIES INC.

    148866    CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY    VQA Prince Edward County    2017    $29.95    CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARDS INC.

    341792    CREEKSIDE BACKYARD BLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC    VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula    2017    $24.95    HOBBS & COMPANY

    302083    BACHELDER NIAGARA CHARDONNAY    VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake    2017    $24.95    S. SCHIRALLI AGENCIES LTD.,

    213173    ORGANIZED CRIME RIESLING    VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2017    $19.95    JAN TARASEWICZ

    265983    MCMANIS CHARDONNAY    River Junction    2018    $19.95    THE VINE AGENCY

    418228    J. LOHR FLUME CROSSING SAUVIGNON BLANC    Arroyo Seco, Monterey County    2018    $23.95    BARRIQUE WINE IMPORTS LTD.

    119099    VIÑA COBOS FELINO CHARDONNAY    Mendoza    2017    $19.95    ROGERS & COMPANY

    375212    SAN PEDRO 1865 SELECTED VINEYARDS SAUVIGNON BLANC    DO Leyda Valley    2018    $18.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    406967    TABALÍ PEDREGOSO GRAN RESERVA VIOGNIER    DO Limarí Valley    2018    $13.95    ALEGRIA FOOD AND DRINK INC.

    483495    OLD COACH ROAD SAUVIGNON BLANC    Nelson, South Island    2018    $21.95    AZUREAU WINE AGENCY

    435073    HENRI EHRHART RÉSERVE PARTICULIÈRE RIESLING    AC Alsace    2017    $19.95    RUBY WINES & SPIRITS

    356956    JOSEPH DROUHIN MÂCON-VILLAGES    AC    2017    $22.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    733501    ALAIN GEOFFROY BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU    AC    2017    $39.95    EX-CELLARS WINE SERVICES

    264945    PASCAL JOLIVET SANCERRE    AC    2018    $31.95    HALPERN ENTERPRISES

    484139    DOMAINE DU TARIQUET SAUVIGNON BLANC    IGP Côtes de Gascogne    2017    $13.95    EPIC WINES AND SPIRITS INC.

    74203    BROTTE LES HAUTS DE BARVILLE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC    AP    2017    $36.95    MARK ANTHONY WINE & SPIRITS

    437004    TENUTA ROVEGLIA VIGNE DI CATULLO RISERVA LUGANA    VQPRD, DOC    2014    $26.95    CARPE VINUM INTERNATIONAL

    461327    BERONIA RUEDA VERDEJO    DO Rueda    2017    $15.95    WOODMAN WINES & SPIRITS

    320986    THIRTY BENCH WINEMAKER'S BLEND RED    VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2017    $24.95    ANDREW PELLER LIMITED

    626325    OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN    BC VQA Okanagan Valley    2015    $53.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC

    330241    STERLING MERLOT    Napa Valley    2016    $36.95    MARK ANTHONY WINE & SPIRITS

    537597    IRONSTONE CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Lodi    2017    $17.95    LIFFORD WINE & SPIRITS

    25106    IRONY CABERNET SAUVIGNON    North Coast    2016    $24.95    SELECT WINE MERCHANTS INC.

    269357    CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Columbia Valley    2016    $21.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.

    144352    ALTA VISTA ATEMPORAL    Albaneve Vineyard, Uco Valley, Mendoza    2015    $22.95    H.H.D. IMPORTS

    66837    SOPHENIA ESTATE MALBEC    Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza    2017    $19.95    SYLVESTRE WINES & SPIRITS INC.

    569699    TABALÍ PEDREGOSO GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON    DO Maipo Valley    2016    $15.95    ALEGRIA FOOD AND DRINK INC.

    143214    MONTES ALPHA PINOT NOIR    DO Aconcagua Coast    2016    $19.95    VIN VINO WINE MERCHANTS INC.

    15495    3 RINGS SHIRAZ    Barossa Valley, South Australia    2016    $17.95    VINOLUNA

    627844    GEMTREE UNCUT SHIRAZ    McLaren Vale, South Australia    2016    $24.95    GARAGE WINE COMPANY

    360636    SISTER'S RUN BETHLEHEM BLOCK CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Barossa, South Australia    2017    $19.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC

    66555    SCHILD ESTATE SHIRAZ    Barossa Valley, South Australia    2016    $19.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC

    493163    GRASSHOPPER ROCK EARNSCLEUGH VINEYARD PINOT NOIR    Central Otago, South Island    2016    $44.95    PARADIGM FINE WINE AGENCY

    388330    CHÂTEAU LE GRAND VERDUS RÉSERVE    AC Bordeaux Supérieur    2016    $19.95    M.C.O.

    487165    LAURENT PERRACHON ROCHE BLEUE JULIÉNAS    AC    2016    $20.95    HERITAGE CELLARS

    526640    COURTOIS LA SOURCE CÔTES DU RHÔNE    AC    2017    $14.95    VINOLUNA

    78790    LE GRAVILLAS SABLET CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES    AC    2016    $15.95    TERRA FIRMA WINES

    736876    CHÂTEAU DE NAGES JT COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES    AP    2015    $26.95    DU CHASSE WINES & SPIRITS

    460410    KÖNIGSCHAFFHAUSER STEINGRÜBLE TROCKEN PINOT NOIR    Qualitätswein    2016    $18.95    H.H.D. IMPORTS

    225086    UMBERTO CESARI LIANO SANGIOVESE/CABERNET SAUVIGNON    IGT Rubicone    2015    $27.95    UNIVINS AND SPIRITS CANADA INC.

    260802    BRANCAIA RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2013    $38.95    TRIALTO WINE GROUP LTD.

    275867    CANONICA A CERRETO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2013    $24.95    FRONTIER WINE MERCHANTS

    631614    MONTE ZOVO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE    DOC    2017    $17.95    H.H.D. IMPORTS

    23390    VILLA SANDI MERLOT    DOC Venezia    2016    $16.95    BARRIQUE WINE IMPORTS LTD.

    161844    VILLA GIRARDI BURE ALTO RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE    DOC    2016    $19.95    LIBERTY WINES INC.

    338939    TOMMASI GRATICCIO APPASSIONATO    Italy    2017    $15.95    UNIVINS AND SPIRITS CANADA INC.

    976662    FAUSTINO I GRAN RESERVA    DOCa Rioja    2006    $35.95    SELECT WINE MERCHANTS INC.

    547208    MURIEL FINCAS DE LA VILLA CRIANZA    DOCa Rioja    2015    $15.95    WINEWORLD IMPORTERS & EXPORTERS LTD

    132597    ESCONDIDO TEMPRANILLO    DO Ribera del Duero    2016    $16.95    THE CASE FOR WINE

    388702    THE FOREIGN AFFAIR AMAROSÉ    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2018    $18.95    CORBY SPIRIT AND WINE LIMITED

    707281    CHÂTEAU VAL-JOANIS TRADITION ROSÉ    AP Luberon    2018    $16.95    THE VINE AGENCY

    556266    RICASOLI ALBIA ROSÉ    IGT Toscana    2018    $16.95    CHURCHILL CELLARS LTD.

    667279    CHARLES SPARR GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG RIESLING    AC Alsace Grand Cru    2012    $24.95    WINEWORLD IMPORTERS & EXPORTERS LTD

    285866    MARCHAND-TAWSE MEURSAULT    AC    2016    $76.95    BURGUNDY DIRECT LTD.

    903237    GRGICH HILLS ESTATE GROWN ZINFANDEL    Napa Valley    2014    $49.95    ROGERS & COMPANY

    541128    VALDIVIESO ÉCLAT VIGNADORES DE CARIGNAN    Dry farmed, old vines, DO Maule Valley    2011    $32.95    WINE LOVERS AGENCY INC.

    10142    CHÂTEAU FONTESTEAU    Cru Bourgeois, AC Haut-Médoc    2015    $32.95    HALPERN ENTERPRISES

    490888    DOMAINES OTT CHÂTEAU DE SELLE ROSÉ    Cru classé, AP Côtes de Provence    2018    $112.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS

    10481    OTT BY OTT ROSÉ    AC Côtes de Provence    2018    $64.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS

Chimo! www.deantudor.com