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Sunday, October 5, 2008

TRADE TASTING: Vinexx Portfolio, September 24, 2008

 The Time and Date:  Wednesday, September 24, 2008   4PM to  8PM

The Event: a select client wine tasting by Vinexx, showing off most of their portfolio.

The Venue: Le Select Bistro.

The Target Audience: clients, wine media, LCBO

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through Vintages or Consignment. Selected higher end California wines (Cohn, Dry Creek, Cline, Dutton Goldfield) are by private order only.

The Quote: "There are a lot more people here than last year; that's good news!"

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Dutton Goldfield Russian River Chardonnay 2006, $525 case of 12

-Chateau des Charmes NV Brut Niagara on the Lake, +207944, $22.95

-Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling 2006 Niagara on the Lake, +432930, $19.95 for 375 mL.

-Graham Beck Franschoek South Africa Rhona Muscadel 2003, $16.8%, $21.80 for 500 mL.

-Mas des Bressades Costieres de Nimes Cabernet Syrah 2006, +712174, $18.95.

-Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva 2004, +177345, $23.95.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Dutton Goldfield Russian River Pinot Noir 2006, $565 case of 12

-B.R. Cohn Sonoma Chardonnay 2007, $360 a case of 12

-Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek Merlot 2005, 13.5%, $303 case of 12

-Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, 13.5%, $300 case of 12

-Chateau des Charmes Rose Sparkling 2005, $28.95, Vintages in December.

-Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay St.David's Bench 2005, +430991, $19.95.

-Canyon Oaks Central Valley California Chardonnay 2007, $13.80 consignment.

-Chateau des Charmes Estate Riesling Niagara on the Lake 2006, +277228, $16.95.

-Cline Cellars Sonoma Zinfandel 2006, +489278, $12.95

-Graham Beck Western Cape South Africa The William 2003 [cabernets, pinotage], +593467, $24.95.

-Chateau des Charmes Estate Cabernet Merlot 2004 Niagara-on-the-Lake, +222372, $19.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cline Cellars Sonoma Live Oak Zinfandel Contra Costa County, 15.5%, $229.50 case of 6.

-Cline Cellars Sonoma Big Break Oak Zinfandel Contra Costa County, 15.5%, $229.50 case of 6.

-Cline Cellars Sonoma Syrah 2006, +733758, $12.95.

-Errazuriz Ovalle Colchagua Valley Panul Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006, $14.65 consignment.

-Jacuzzi Vineyards Sonoma Primitivo 2005, +67736 $18.95

 

The Food: finger foods from servers included terrific pied de cochon, quiche lorraine, tarte nicoise, mushroom tart, pork and chicken liver terrine, steak tartare, and salmon gravlax. This probably hits all the major culinary regions of France.

The Downside: it was an almost perfect experience.

The Upside: a great chance to catch up with Michele Bosc of Chateau des Charmes.

The Contact Person: jdesautels@vinexx.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

 

 

 
 

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

BYOW Bottle Reviews for Sept, 2008, at the LCBO now

1. R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Reserva 2001 Rioja (+529586 $36.95
retail, suggested $49.99 on wine card) is a well-aged Rioja, ready now.
2. Lorentz Gewurztraminer Altenberg de Bergheim 2002 Alsace Grand Cru
Vieilles Vignes (+21311 $32.95 retail, suggested $37 on wine card) is
13.5% ABV with elements of spicy marmalade.
3. William Fevre Chablis Montmains 2006 1er cru (+977587 $34.95 retail,
suggested $49 on wine card) has firm minerals for shellfish.
4. Studert-Prum Riesling Spatlese 2006 (+912659 $25.95 retail,
suggested $39 on wine card) delicious stoney minerals plus peaches.
5. Flat Rock Cellars Gravity Pinot Noir 2006 (+1560 $29.95 retail,
suggested $45 on wine card) is a charming blend from different clones
and different types of barrels.
6. Clos du Val Pinot Noir 2005 Carneros Napa (+3384 $32.95 retail,
suggested $48 on wine card) has Burgundian character from the French
oak.
7. Innisfree Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa (+38125 $28.95 retail,
suggested $43 on wine card) approachable wine from Insignia's
vineyards, almost a second label.
8. Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinfandel 2006 Sonoma (+363358 $22.95
retail, suggested $37 on wine card) is a toasty, jammy resto wine for
California lovers.
9. Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz 2003 (+971705 $39.95 retail,
suggested $55 on wine card) is elegant, dark fruit tones, wood from
French and US oak.
10. Alain Jaume & Fils Clos de Sixte 2005 Lirac (+76349 $26.95 retail,
suggested $40 on wine card) is 50% Grenache, 35% syrah, and 15%
mourvedre, a pretty wine reflective of southern Rhone.
11. Ornellai Le Volte 2006 Toscana (+964221 $25.95 retail, suggested
$39 on wine card) is probably the best value SuperTuscan out there
since the Cab and Merlot come from their own estates.
1.Alain Geoffroy Chablis Beauroy 2006 1er Cru (+733501 $31.95 retail,
suggested $45 on wine card) is minerally, needs seafood.
2. Chateau de la Cree Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 2006 1er cru (+87163
$79.95 retail, suggested $95 on wine card) is good value for BYOW.
3. Duvergey-Taboureau Puligny-Montrachet 2006 (+84434 $53.95 retail,
suggested $69 on wine card) is another forest floor Burgundy.
4. Raphael Dubois Cote de Nuits-Villages Les Monts de Boncourts 2006
(+84905 $31.95 retail, suggested $46 on wine card) has good wood and
length.
5. Tomas Fogarty Pinot Noir 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains (+75994 $29.95
retail, suggested $45 on wine card) has cherry, mocha and earth.
6. Domaine Chanson Beaune Teurons 2005 1er cru (+84426 $52.95 retail,
suggested $67 on wine card) has deep red fruit.
7. Beronia Gran Reserva 1996 Rioja (+940965 $30.95 retail, suggested
$45 on wine card) is a bargain for a 12 year old Rioja. Fine aging, can
take more.
 
 
 
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Saturday, September 27, 2008

REPORT: National Study on the Perception of French Wines in Canada (CROP)

The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 17, 2008  10AM to 2 PM

The Event: unveiling of the results of a national study on the perception of French wines, done by CROP for Sopexa.

The Venue: Third floor gallery of Burroughes Building, Queen St West

The Target Audience: wine importers, media

The Quote: "Overall, there was nothing new…BUT there is hard evidence to support what we already knew about. That's useful"

In summary, promotional activies revolve around in-store tastings, newsletters, wine classes, and newspaper articles. The demographics were 18-24 (entry level, cheap, social wines); 24-34 (exoticism, social), 35-54 (hard core), and 55+ (traditional, no real health concerns). French wines, of course, really do well in Quebec, but taper off as one moves westward. There was a suggestion that Sopexa could downsize its Montreal office and enlarge its Vancouver office for more promotion, especially with VANOC 2010. The survey made no distinction between Cellared in Canada and VQA wines, which was unfortunate since most people reported drinking "Canadian" wines. The overall perception of French wines: too expensive, not daring enough, snobby. There was little attachment to French wines outside of Quebec. But there is a potential for growth in Canada through awareness of more artisanal wineries and wine education, such as a French wine club (the former Compagnons de Vins de France? Come on down, Kristine Bach…).

The Wines: with the lunch, we sampled some wines from France (where else?): Leon Beyer Pinot Gris 2006 Alsace (attractive), Domaine Lamargue Viognier 2007, Le Bourgogne Chanson Pinot Noir 2006, Chateau Pey La Tour Reserve 2006 (needs time; Vintages Essentials), and the stunning Mas des Bressades Cabernet Syrah 2006 (from Vinexx).

The Food: a nice spread of salmon and chicken, plus salads and whole grains, desserts, etc., from Daniel et Daniel.

The Downside: too much data was transmitted too fast, and there were no handouts to rely on. We desperately needed summary sheets.

The Upside: the survey covered more than French wines – other countries' wines were also analyzed and how Canadians perceived them.

The Contact Person: annmarie.koumettou@sopexa.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84.

 

 
 

Thursday, September 25, 2008

TRADE TASTING: Sonoma Wine Affair, Toronto September 18, 2008

The Time and Date: Thursday, September 18, 2008   2:30 – 5 PM

The Event: the 2008 Sonoma Wine Affair

The Venue: Arcadian Court, The Bay

The Target Audience: wine media, wine trade, sommeliers

The Availability/Catalogue: wines were all over the map, with access through Vintages or Consignment or Private Order.

The Quote: "Nice, quiet little show, no feel of being rushed. It was 5 PM before I even knew it. What happened to E & J Gallo? They were only in Vancouver".

The Wines: I did not try all the wines. Notable with their absence from Toronto were Gallo and Geyser Peak, plus Schug Carneros and Sonoma Cutrer.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages 2004 $105

-Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

-Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $80 Vintages March 2009

-Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs 2004 Vintages sparkler

-Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2006 $39.65 Lorac

-Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill Estate 2006 $26.99 Mark Anthony

-Rodney Strong Symmetry Meritage 2005 Mark Anthony

-Seghesio Family Home Ranch Zinfandel 2006 $45 Dionysus

 

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Arrowood Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay 2005 $49.95 Vintages

-Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2005 $45 Vintages March 2009 Authentic

-Ferrari-Carano Winery Chardonnay Alexander Valley 2006 $40.25

-Flowers Winery Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2006 $66  Rogers

-La Crema Chardonnay 2006

-Landmark Steel Plow Syrah 2006 $39.65 Lorac

-Pedroncelli Winery Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley 2006 $14 Grape Expectations.

-Ravenswood Barricia Zinfandel 2005

-Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005

-Sebastiani Vineayrds Secolo 2006 Vintages February 2009

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Blackstone Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $16.95

-Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 $37.95 Consignment John Gibson Agencies

-Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2007

-Ferrari-Carano Winery Fume Blanc 2007 $23.95 Authentic

-Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2006 $26.50 Lifford

-Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2006 $26.50 Lifford

-Kendall Jackson Vintner`s Reserve Chardonnay 2006

-Murphy-Goode Chardonnay 2006 The Vine

-Trentadue Merlot Alexander Valley 2005 $31.20 John Gibson

-Trentadue La Storia Zinfandel Alexander Valley 2004 $35 John Gibson

 

 

The Food: cheese and pate, crackers, lots of fresh veggies left over.

The Upside: a chance to taste some really great wines – it has been three years since the Sonoma team came to Toronto.

The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

 
 

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

A tasting of Fabiano (Veneto) wines, and a lunch at Romagna Mia, Sept 16, 2008

The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 16, 2008  1 PM to 3:30 PM

The Event: a tasting of Fabiano (Veneto) wines, and a lunch.

The Venue: Romagna Mia

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available. We tasted four off the General List, plus five that are on Rapid Release at the LCBO for Saturday September 27. Apparently, Veneto wines are the hottest category, and the LCBO could not wait until October 25 when a huge release of Veneto wines are to appear.

The Quote: "Romagna Mia is doing a festival of Fabiano wines this month."

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fabiano Negraro Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +96875, $23.95.

-Fabiano I Fondatori Amarone 2003, +96859, $75.95

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fabiano Storica Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +96883, $18.95.

-Fabiano Rugala Amarone 2004, +96867, $45.95

-Fabiano Storica Amarone 2004, +673566, $47.95

-Fabiano Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +34058, $14.65

 

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fabiano Pinot Grigio Terre Degli Osci 2007, +34066, $14.65

-Fabiano Valpolicella, +117259, $16.75 en magnum 1.5L

-Fabiano Soave, +116988, $13.75 en magnum, 1.5L

 

The Food: to accompany the wines, which we could drink and match in any order, we had mixed Italian cold cuts with diverse breads, strozzapreti all Romagnola (a meat-based sauced pasta), and the dolce of gelato al Parmigiana-Reggiano (cheese ice cream) – the latter paired nicely with the Amarone. Plus coffee.

The Downside: it was lightly attended, maybe because it conflicted with other tastings plus the LCBO Tuesday tasting. Product Consultants were skedded to come after 3:30.

The Upside: enough room to spread out and to question the agent, Laura Higgins of Eurovintage

The Contact Person: Laura Higgins vintages@eurovintage.com

The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86.

 
 
 

Monday, September 22, 2008

BOOK REVIEW: The No-Nonsense Guide to World Food (by Wayne Roberts)

THE NO-NONSENSE GUIDE TO WORLD FOOD (Between the Lines, 2008, 192
pages, ISBN 978-1-897071-44-1, $16 CAD soft covers) is by Wayne
Roberts, a Toronto-based environmental activist who writes for NOW and
co-ordinates the Toronto Food Policy Council (he's also the author of
"Real Food for a Change" from 1999). It has been co-published with the
New Internationalist as one of its "No-Nonsense" series, basic guides
to activist projects albeit on a higher plane that Dummies or Idiots
series. Other series topics include animal rights, climate change, fair
trade, globalization, human rights, sexual diversity, women's rights,
and world poverty. It's a great survey of the problems that plague
global food production and distribution, all of it in the macros (since
this is a survey book) of social justice, public health, and green
economics. Of course, he brings in related systems with sustainable
living, the role of governments, the hundreds of groups that have
united (with stories behind these organizations). He deals effectively
with the hunger campaigns in Cuba and Brazil. All we see in the papers,
though, are stories about escalating food prices, high levels of
obesity, and threats to food from global warming. He tries to go behind
these stories to get at the issues by highlighting the post-World War
II evolution of a cheap food system, the government subsidies, and the
disconnect between humans and their environment. He has end notes after
each chapter, lists of international contacts and websites, and an
index.
Audience and level of use: serious foodies, fans of Michael Pollan,
etc.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "Food production is one of the
world's dirtiest industries, doing more damage to more territory than
logging, mining or heavy industry. About 170 million food producers are
child laborers, which speaks to the poverty and mistreatment
subsidizing low food prices."
The downside to this book: I wish Roberts had spent more space talking
about Via Campesina. This really important group needed further
exploring. Also, there is no mention of biodynamic or Demeter.
The upside to this book: according to the publisher, "there are on-the-
spot reports of heartwarming experiments around the world". And there
are doable proposals. But still…
Quality/Price Rating: 94.
 
 

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Demeter and Organic Tasting of Ceago and Jeriko California Wines, Sept 16, 2007.

The Time and Date: Tuesday September 16, 2008  3 PM – 5 PM

The Event: a tasting of two newish California wineries, Ceago Vinegarden (Biodynamically Certified by Demeter) located in Lake County and owned by Jim Fetzer, and Jeriko Estate (Organic Certified) located in Mendocino County and owned by Daniel Fetzer.

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street West

The Target Audience: wine writers.

The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines have been sourced and will be available through different streams of Vintages, Consignment, Private Orders, and the like, through the Ontario agent, The Living Vine (Mark Cuff).

The Quote: "The Fetzers are brothers, and now have finished their eight year non-compete clause since selling Fetzer Vineyards to Brown Forman".

The Wines: all of these organic wines were very good quality and fairly priced. We were also able to taste a few other organic wines from the Living Vine portfolio; these are also included below. Prices are retail.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Tres Sabores Napa Valley Rutherford Perque No? Zinfandel 2005, $29.95 [dense, chunky]

-Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Spatlese 2007, $36.95 [ripe body]

-Erbaluna La Morra Piedmont Barolo 2004 Vigna Rocche, $67.95 [quality, extract]

-Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Sauvignon Blanc Kathleen's Vineyard 2007, $25.95 [good MVC}

-Jeriko Estate Mendocino Chardonnay 2006, $19.95 [well-integrated oak]

-Jeriko Estate Mendocino Merlot 2004, $26.95 [dynamite finish]

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Erbaluna La Morra Piedmont Barolo 2004, $54.95

-Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Chardonnay Del Lago 2007 $28.95

-Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Cabernet Franc Del Lago 2005, $55.95.

-Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Merlot Del Lago 2006, $30.95.

-Jeriko Estate Mendocino Brut Sparkling Wine 2005, Chardonnay, [first organic sparkler in North America], $39.95.

-Jeriko Estate Mendocino Syrah 2004, $26.95.

-Jeriko Estate Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $30.95.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Organic Vignerons South Australia Grenache/Viognier Rose 2007, $18.75 [off-dry]

-Vina Esencia Mendoza Occhioverde Unoaked Merlot 2007, $16.95

-Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Kabinett Off-Dry 2007, $23.95

-Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Estate 2007, $25.95

-Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Syrah 2006, $30.95

 

The Food: California styled pizza at room temperature; the one with bitter greens was excellent. Apparently, one writer (NOT me) finished off all the pizza.

The Downside: this was a hurry-up call, with barely 15 hours notice.

The Upside: a chance to taste some really good Demeter and Organic wines.

The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca

The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

 
 
 
 

Monday, September 15, 2008

Chile Wine Trade Show in Toronto, Oct 1 (pre-tasting, Sept 10)

 The Time and Date: Wednesday September 10, 2008  11AM to 1:30 PM

The Event: Media Preview Tasting of Wines of Chile, in advance of the October 1 show at the Fermentations in the Distillery District.

The Venue: Crush Wine Bar (downstairs)

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available in the LCBO system except for two which were private orders.

The Quote: "Some amazing wines here…"

The Wines: some 50 wines were offered in a blind tasting. Sometimes we did not know the varietals.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vina Cousino Macul Riesling Dona Isidora 2007, +57182, $11.95.

-Vina Amayna Chardonnay 2006 Leyda Valley, +76265 Vintages, $23.25.

-Vina Caliterra Carmenere Tributo 2006, $16.95 consignment (Calibrium).

-Vina Valdivieso Malbec Reserva 2006, $22.45 consignment (Carriage Trade)

-Vina Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Syrah Haras Elegance 2004, +640672 Vintages, $33.75.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vina MontGras Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2007 +58632, $11.95.

-Vina Maipo Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Especial 2008 +81216 Vintages Nov. 22, $16.95

-Vina Maipo Carmenere Reserva 2007 Rapel, $13.95 consignment (Select)

-Vina Botalcura Carmenere La Porfia Grand Reserve 2005, +61887, Vintages, $18.95.

-Vina Undurraga Carmenere Sibaris Reserva Especial 2007, +96602 Vintages, $15.95.

-Vina Cono Sur Pinot Noir Vision 2007, +689992 Vintages, $15.95.

-Vina Errazuriz Shiraz Max Reserva 2006, +614750, $17.75.

-Vina Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere Albis 2004, +579813 Vintages, $55.

-Vina Anakena Cabernet/Merlot/Carmenere ONA 2006, +59493, $17.95.

-Vina Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005, +32110 Vintages, $17.95.

-Vina Requingua Cabernet Sauvignon Toro De Piedra Reserva 2006, +39362 Vintages, $14.95.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vina Cono Sur Carmenere Vision 2007, +59360 Vintages, $15.95.

-Vina Cousino Macul Cabernet Sauvignon Antiguas Reservas 2006, +212993, $15.45.

-Vina MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2007, +619205, $12.20.

-Vina Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Digna Reserve 2006, +177451 Vintages, $14.95.

 

The Food: basic gourmet sandwiches and salads from Crush.

The Downside: initially, there was no paper on which to write notes.

The Upside: relaxing, easy to focus on the task at hand, no one talking to me.

The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com

The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.