LCBO Vintages Release Notes for Nov 7, 2009

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR NOVEMBER 7, 2009
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing <deantudor@deantudor.com>
Always at www.deantudor.com since 1995. Also visit my "Wines, Beers and
Spirits of the Net Compendium", a guide to thousands of news items and
RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits.
My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are
QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated
wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the
release for wine writers or product consultants. Also, some defective
or corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Catena Chardonnay 2007 Mendoza: 14% ABV, stylish, edgy and smoky,
from higher altitude grapes. +918895, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007 Maipo: MVC for
the toasty pear tones, butter. +342857, $17.95, QPR: 90.
3. Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Chardonnay 2008 Eden Valley: good creamy
consistency, smooth toasted at end, twist top, 14% ABV. +651349,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Louis Hauller Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: well-rounded, MVC muscat
tones, slightly bitter on finish. +141754, $16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Jean-Michel Sorbe Quincy 2008: very herby and delicious, citrus,
long engaging finish, refreshing, palate cleansing. +608877, $18.95,
QPR: 90.
6. Laurent Miquel Nord Sud Viognier 2008 Pays D'Oc: partially done up
in oak barrels for added succulence and vanilla complexity. +673236,
$16.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Clos du Bois Sonoma Reserve Merlot 2006 Alexander Valley: soft,
black fruit and mocha, strong restaurant wine. +34900, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Round Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California: another good resto
wine, hits all the MVC cabernet sauvignon buttons. +526418, $14.95,
QPR: 90.
3. Bodega Francois Lurton Reserva Malbec 2007 Mendoza: quality mocha,
smoke and toast. Food wine. +903153, $17.95, QPR: 90.
4. Weinert Malbec 2004 Mendoza: good depth and tang, well-aged. 14.5%
ABV. +556795, $15.95, QPR: 90.
5. Concha y Toro Winemaker's Lot 115 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Quebrada
de Agua Vineyard Maule Chile: very tasty black fruit and cassis,
greater development possible. +30965, $17.95, QPR: 90.
6. Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier 2006 Barossa: Rhone style syrah shines
through. +524926, $19.95, QPR: 90.
7. Chateau de Lafaurie-Monbadon 2005 Cotes de Castillon Bordeaux: rich,
dense black fruit, great price. Buy it all! +140012, $15, QPR: 92.
8. Chateau de Gourgazaud Cuvee Mathilde 2006 Minervois: good dense
flavours of black fruit, long long finish. +958629, $14.95, QPR: 90.
9. Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvee Notre Dame 2007 Corbieres: appears
sweeter than the Minervois above but structured the same (Grenache
replacing mourvedre). +106518, $16.95.
10. Château Val Joanis Tradition Syrah 2006 Luberon: 14% ABV, good
syrah hit, nicely priced to sell. +965616, $15.95, QPR: 90.
11. Les Vignerons du Castelas Cotes du Rhone 2007: good syrah Rhone
typicity, longer finish, more food than just party. +142125, $13.95,
QPR: 90.
12. Perrin & Fils Les Cornuds Vinsobres 2007 Cotes du Rhone: red fruit
and lovely finish, best with food. +566844, $17.95, QPR: 90.
13. Nuova Cappelletta Barbera del Monferrato 2007: biodynamic wine
shoes good fruit and density, longer finish. +719518, $16.95, QPR: 90.
14. A-Mano Primitivo 2007 Puglia: good standby, useful zinfandel-like
tones. +972588, $15.95, QPR: 90.
15. Poggio Al Tufo Alicante 2007 Maremma Toscana: deep, dense and
delicious, very Italianate, character in the structure. +70797, $18.95,
QPR: 90.
16. Marques de Valcarlos Reserva Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Navarra: raisin nose, stretched oak over palate, longer finish, needs
food. +928853, $17.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are ready to enjoy right now. Consumers
could buy and bring to those restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma/Santa Barbara/Monterey,
+356501, $32.95 retail.
2. Yalumba Viognier 2008 Eden Valley, +954644, $22.95 retail.
3. Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2007 Twenty Mile Bench
Niagara, +33951, $21.
4. Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa, +73817, $21.95.
5. Murdock Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Coonawarra, +994210, $32.95.
6. Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2005, +512384, $35.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Oct 1/09 Event: A tasting with Laura Catena from Bodega Catena Zapata

The Time and Date: Thursday, October 1, 2009   10AM to 11:30 AM
The Event: A tasting with Laura Catena from Bodega Catena Zapata at her
agent Calibrium International's Toronto office.
The Venue: Calibirum, Liberty Village
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: these are mainly upcoming LCBO Vintages
releases from her family's winery and high altitude vineyards.
The Quote/Background: Laura said: "If you think too much you don't make
good wine". And that's also true of tasting and identifying wine.
The Wines: we tried seven wines. Most were of sterling, first rate
quality, characterized by intense and dense flavours.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

 

-Catena Alta Chardonnay 2007, $39.95, coming in 2010.
-Catena Zapata Malbec Nicasia Vineyard 2005, $70
-Catena Zapata Malbec Adrianna Vineyard 2005, $70

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $50 Vintages November 21.
-Nicolas Catena Zapata 2005 (78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Malbec), $83 Vintages
Online
-Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino 2005 (sourced from Nicasia & Adrianna vineyards),
$83

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Catena Alta Malbec 2006, $55.95 Vintages November 21.

 

The Downside: it was early in the morning
The Upside: a chance to speak with Laura Catena, one of the most
dynamic Argentine wine personalities.
The Contact Person: agaunt@calibrium.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Food and Wine Books In Review, Aug- Oct 2009

THE TROPICAL VEGAN KITCHEN; meat-free, egg-free, dairy-free dishes
from the tropics (Home Books, 2009; distr. Penguin, 179 pages, ISBN
978-1-55788-544-9, $18.95 US paper covers) is by Donna Klein, author of
other vegan cookbooks. She's a free lance writer for several
publications, writing on vegan and vegetarian matters. There are 225 or
so preps here, covering the tropics of the Caribbean, Africa, South
Asia, and Latin America. There is a primer on tropical fruits and
veggies with data on buying and storing. Each recipe has a nutritional
analysis. Arrangement is by course, with many soups and salads.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there are metric tables of equivalents. It is a straightforward
book, covering avocado, banana, chayote, jackfruit, kiwi, mango and
more – 20 in all. Two recipes or so on a page, many with cook's notes.
And just about everything is fast and easy to do.
Audience and level of use: vegans and vegetarians looking for spicy
food.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: avocado-cucumber sushi
rolls; black bean and tropical fruit salads; spicy Bolivian-style
lentils over rice; cabbage stuffed tortillas;
The downside to this book: I would have liked some menu suggestions.
The upside to this book: she includes chilies as a tropical item, thus
there are many preps here with different peppers in the mix.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

4. ALMOST MEATLESS; recipes that are better for your health and the
planet (Ten Speed Press, 2009, 148 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-961-6,
$22.50 US paper covers) is by Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond.
Both are food writers living in Philadelphia. Here are 60 plus preps
that de-emphasize meat. It includes vegetarian variations on meat-based
recipes for flexitarians. Meats here are flavour enhancements and
garnishes. Most of the preps are classics and standbys, re-jigged to
have less meat but more veggies. So the recipes remain delicious but
also healthier and even economically worthy since there are less beef
and pork to buy. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
There is also a bibliography and website listing for healthier eating.
Audience and level of use: first to those meat eaters who want to cut
back on their meat consumption.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: shrimp and slow-roasted
tomato risotto; chicken and biscuit pot pie; turkey verde soup; turkey
and pinto bean corn bread pie; caramelized onion meat loaf; albondigas;
grits roulade.
The downside to this book: more recipes are needed.
The upside to this book: seems to satisfy the need for less meat.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

5. MODERN SPICE; inspired Indian flavors for the contemporary kitchen
(Simon & Schuster, 2009, 265 pages, ISBN 978-1-4165-6659-5, $25 US hard
covers) is by Monica Bhide, who has authored two previous Indian
cookbooks. Despite that, the publisher needs a half dozen logrollers,
especially from Mark Bittman and the head of egullet.org. Here are some
125 recipes plus some essays (a few like memoirs), which covers
culinary trends in Indian food in North America, contemporary updates
of Indian classics, and notes on Indian culture in North America. She
also has a guide to the modern Indian pantry. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric
table of equivalents. More details are at www.monicabhide.com.
Audience and level of use: Indian food lovers looking for some North
American adaptations.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pan-seared eggplant with
ginger and honey; baby besan crepes with potatoes; pomegranate-mango
toss; chicken breast stuffed with paneer; stir-fried lamb; strawberry
and kiwi pudding; guava fool; salmon with kumquat chutney.
The downside to this book: there are eight photos, not particularly
inspired – and with no page references to the recipes.
The upside to this book: larger typeface is very useful, especially in
the index.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

6. JAM IT, PICKLE IT, CURE IT and other cooking projects (Ten Speed
Press, 2009, 148 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-958-6, $24.95 US hard covers)
is by Karen Solomon, a San Francisco food and lifestyle writer. This is
a handy collection of some 75 recipes for making what the publisher
calls "artisan foods" at home. There are preps here for homemade
cheeses, condiments, smoked meats, pickles, noodles, crackers and
breadsticks, popsicles, jams, and cordials. Just like the book from
decades ago, "Better than Store Bought". She also has ideas for
creative packaging should you want to give any of these preps as gifts.
He guide has projects that can be completed over a weekend. And to that
end, she has detailed instructions, timelines for planning ahead,
shopping lists, and how to inventory your pantry. The book is arranged
by themes: munch it, bottle it, brine it, noodle it, hook it (fish),
hunt it (meats), milk it, jam it, sugar it, freeze it, unwrap it 
(candy), and drink it. There are several photos of techniques. Keen
instructions and storage notes are useful. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: great for generation Y to learn about how to
make these things at home instead of spending money on purchased stuff.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ricotta salata; kimchee;
marshmallows; chocolate fudge pops; beef jerky; olives; mustard.
The downside to this book: I would have liked more recipes for more
home prepping.
The upside to this book: good to have a book to appeal to younger,
budding cooks.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

7. HOW TO LAUNCH YOUR WINE CAREER (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2009, 354
pages, ISBN 978-1-934259-06-1, $29.95 US paper covers) is by Liz Thach
(developer of the Wine MBA program at Sonoma State University) and
Brian D'Emilio (Director of Talent for Foster's Wine Estates Americas).
Together, they detail job descriptions, educational and skill
requirements, the ladder to success in one's career, how to get
started, job hunting strategies and the like. Apparently, there fifty
career roles in the wine business. Each chapter ends with a guide to
available resources (books, websites, and conferences). The appendix
has an "Action Plan Worksheet). Along the way, there are in-depth
interviews with some important wine people, such as Michael Mondavi,
James Laube of the Wine Spectator and Leslie Sbrocco, wine author.
There is a long and useful chapter on wine writers and wine educators,
and how to get there. The book is written and arranged by typical
career divisions, including winemaker, viticulturist, wine marketing,
public relations, distributors-importers-direct sales, retailing to
stores and restaurants, wine writers, wine educators, administration,
and wine supplies. There are a lot of strategies here for job-hunting.
Audience and level of use: wine schools, students, career changers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: E-commerce/web specialist or manager
roles focus specifically on the winery's Internet presence. They manage
website design, e-commerce software and sales, and email
communications. Wineries offer customers the opportunity to purchase
directly via the Internet.
The downside to this book: big chunks are not applicable to Canada,
which has liquor monopolies.
The upside to this book: the book is focused on just the US wine
industry
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

8. 200 FAST & EASY ARTISAN BREADS; no-knead, one bowl (Robert Rose,
2009, 317 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0211-2, $27.95 Canadian, soft covers)
is by Judith Fertig, an American food writer, book author, and recipe
developer. It is a fairly easy and useful compilation of preps, being
based on the Sullivan Street Bakery's (and others') lead recipe in the
New York Times a few years back. The basic premise is to create a biga,
to let the bread breathe on its own. This means no proofing, no
kneading, and no baking on the same day. You can wait several days. The
result is a more interesting kind of bread, here made with instant or
bread machine yeast. (Bread machines are not called for in this book,
but the bread machine yeast is needed). Arrangement is by type of
bread, such as whole-grains, seeded, filled, flavoured, slow-rise,
gluten-free, festive breads, brioche, bagels, bialys, buttery yeast
breads, and more. But the book makes concessions to its dual audience
of Americans and Canadians: throughout the book, there is a box for
nearly every recipe headed "Baking with Canadian Flour". The box
explains the difference between US and Canadian flours and how to
compensate. It was off-putting after a dozen times: there must be some
150 occurrences of it in the book. Recipe preparations have their
ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements.
Audience and level of use: basic bread baking primer.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: slow-rise herbed polenta
dough; granola dough; Roquefort and walnut fougasse; sun-dried tomato
and feta flatbread; rustic Italian hoagie rolls; sour Graham dough.
The downside to this book: the constant view of the Canadian Flour box
becomes boring.
The upside to this book: it should encourage more cooks to do baking.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

9. WINESPEAK; a vinous thesaurus of (gasp!) 36, 975 bizarre, erotic,
funny, outrageous, poetic, silly and ugly wine tasting descriptors
(WineSpeak Press, 2009; distr. Wine Appreciation Guild, 346 pages, ISBN
978-0-9800648-0-3, $29.95 US paper covers) has been compiled by Bernard
Klem of www.winespeak.com. For eight years, Klem has collated wine
tasting terms from real wine reviews in English. I'm there. So is
Richard Best from Oakville. Terms are organized in 27 different
categories of appearance (clarity, colour, and age), smell and taste
(17 here), balance, complexity, typicity, and finish. There are another
20 categories of special collections, such as a series of words
describing terroir, chocolate, and minerals-rocks (have we ever sucked
rocks?). My fave from these last categories is the description
"California Chardonnay is like giving Pinocchio a blow job". Near
misses to: "health hazard", "can be cellared for up to 10,000 years",
and "mutt of the blend". This may be a fun book, but it is also a
serious book: people actually wrote these words. Klem is hard at work
on a second edition, and maybe he'll propose some Parker numbers for
the words.
Audience and level of use: wine freaks and completists, new wine
writers looking to expand their vocabulary.
Some interesting or unusual facts: none of this was made up.
The downside to this book: he misses a few Internet phrase generators
such as the Silly Tasting Note Generator. Also, he misstated my first
name as "Anthony" (Anthony Tudor was a ballet choreographer), although
my website is correct and so is "Tudor's Faint Praise Index".
The upside to this book: whew, what a collection, very complete. There
should be no complaints. Just memorize everything.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

 

 

 

10. WINE SECRETS; advice from winemakers, sommeliers, and connoisseurs
(Quirk Books, 2009; distr. Raincoast, 191 pages, ISBN 978-1-59474-261-
3, $19.95US hard covers) is by Marnie Old, who also authored the wine
half of "He Said Beer, She Said Wine" (2008). She's a Master Sommelier,
a native of Winnipeg, and now a Philadelphia-based wine writer. She's
taken excerpts from the writings of 40 important wine people. I am
surprised at how many of these people I actually know, such as Don
Ziraldo, Gina Gallo, Ed Sbragia, Michael Mondavi, Tom Stevenson,
Randall Grahm, Jean Trimbach, and Natalie MacLean. Most of the rest I
had heard of. Topics range from basic winemaking, terroir, oak
treatment, old world/new world styles, tasting wines, aroma-body-
acidity-tannin, closures (twist tops, corks, boxes, et al) – forty in
all at four pages or so each. Then Marnie puts her own spin and
comments on the advice. Little bios are given for each source.
Audience and level of use: good gift book
Some interesting or unusual facts: Wines that will age gracefully for
decades are becoming rarer every year.
The downside to this book: I would have liked more comments and
articles.
The upside to this book: fairly comprehensive for beginners.
Quality/Price Rating: 89,

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

Some Interesting Cookbooks for the Fall 2009

 RISOTTO WITH NETTLES; a memoir with food (Chatto & Windus, 2009;
distr. Random House Canada, 326 pages, ISBN 978-0-701-18098-0, $34.95
Canadian hard covers) is by Anna Del Conte, who has written a dozen
books on Italian cooking. Many of them have won awards. Here, she
recounts her life in a sort-of memoir/autobiography. She was born in
pre-war Italy, arrived in England in 1949, married an Englishman and
stayed on. She has been well-known for bringing forth Italian food to
the English palate. This is her story of food in her life, and the
tastes associated with her food – with recipes and plenty of cook's
notes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric
measurements, but there is no avoirdupois table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: memoir lovers, food historians.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: bollito misto; bomba di
panna e marrons glace; pasta and bean soup; gnocchi; polenta biscuits;
baked sardines; Swiss chard torte.
The downside to this book: the few photos are dark and murky.
The upside to this book: There's a general index to the book, and a
separate index to recipes and food.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

4. SLOW COOKER: the best cookbook ever with more than 400 easy-to-make
recipes (Chronicle Books, 2009, 544 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6657-6,
$24.95 US paper covers) is by Diane Phillips, author of 14 cookbooks
and a food consultant/teacher. This is a convenient book in that it
adapts many conventional recipes to the slow cooker. As many readers
know, you put a few items in the slow cooker in the A.M., set it for
some hours, and then it will be ready when you get home. Almost like
magic. Philips gives extensive details on the workings of the slow
cooker, the need for a dry pantry. spices and a larder, plus
maintenance/care of the cooker. There have been other books over the
years, but this one is one of the fattest with a wider range of
applications. It's arranged by technique, from soup and chiles through
casserole and stews, with separate chapters on fish, beef, poultry,
pork, lamb, veggies, breads and desserts. And there are seventy-five
pages on party planning. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents at
the back.
Audience and level of use: home cooks, beginners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cheesy broccoli soup, huevos
rancheros, beef enchiladas with chipotle sauce, artichoke spinach dip,
grits casserole, cherries jubilee lava cake, braised root vegetables.
The downside to this book: I found the typeface to be a little on the
light side.
The upside to this book: good database and selection of recipes.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

 

 

5. THE ILLUSTRATED QUICK COOK (DK, 2009, 544 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-
5577-8, $35 US) has been edited by Heather Whinney, a British food
writer and editor. The basics here: 700 plus recipes, many to be ready
in 30 minutes or less, 1,000 photos of finished dishes, quick
techniques, step-by-step master recipes. Categories involve everyday
family meals and express entertaining. Of course you will need three
things that not everyone has: a larder-pantry, a mise-en-place, and
food prepared in advance. She has planners, tables, and an illustrated
table of contents. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there are also metric tables
of equivalents and conversion charts. Extra features include: menu
planners, recipe chooser galleries, Cheat tips, Cook's Notes, recipe
variations, and practical information to introduce every time-saving
device. Signs are used to indicate prep times and cooking times.
Audience and level of use: harried beginners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: quesadilla with feta cheese,
green olives and peppers; asparagus and herb tart; spiced pork and
chicken pie; shepherd's pie (which correctly calls for lamb); coq au
vin; pork with fennel and mustard.
The downside to this book: the book weighs too much – it is not
convenient at more than five pounds.
The upside to this book: gorgeous colour photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

6. THE ENTERTAINING ENCYCLOPEDIA; essential tips for recipes and
perfect parties (Robert Rose, 2009, 477 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0219-8,
$24.95 US paper covers) is by Denise Vivaldo, founder of Food Fanatics,
a catering, recipe-development and food-styling firm
(foodfanatics.net). Some of her earlier books start with the title "Do
It for Less" – as guides to parties or weddings. This current book
presents about 200 recipes and scores of proven party ideas, menus and
tips. She neatly divides and conquers by telling us that there are only
six basic elements to entertaining: theme, location, décor, guests,
food and beverages, and entertainment. Then she proceeds to give us an
analysis of each with her advice. In the recipe section (which begins
on page 201), she gives us the essential preps for appetizers, salads,
soups, etc. through to desserts and beverages. Then come the 25 theme
menus with page references fort each recipe suggested. International
cuisine and party favours are highlighted, as in a Turkish Twilight, a
German Feast, a Mexican Fiesta, a Western Hoedown, or a Chinese
Banquet. And there is a quick reference guide which also serves as a
checklist. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric
and avoirdupois measurements, and there is no need for tables of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: the adventuresome who wish to throw a party.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: oven-roasted kalua pork;
pear bread pudding; smoked turkey on sage mini scones; crab and blue
cheese bundles; rock shrimp salad wraps; petit lobster pot pies;
cheddar cumin scones with Black Forest ham.
The downside to this book: many regular recipes (e.g., French onion
soup) can be located in other, more general cookbooks.
The upside to this book: great collection of ideas, all in one place.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

7. THE NEW THANKSGIVING TABLE; an American celebration of family,
friends, and food (Chronicle Books, 2008, 2009, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-
8118-6493-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Diane Morgan, a Portland, OR
freelance food writer and multiple cookbook author for Chronicle Books.
This book is best meant for the US market, since it presents preps from
every region in the US. It is available in time for American purchase,
but not for Canadian (I just got the book near the end of September).
Nevertheless, it does a fine job in presenting the parameters of the
holiday, which appears to loom larger in US minds than in Canadian
minds. There are lots of material on the nature of celebration, the
harvest and seasonal foods, and special holiday equipment and tools.
This is followed by categories of appetizers, soups, mains, sides, and
desserts. There is of course, a special chapter on leftover faves and a
series of menus for regional thanksgivings with their own timetables
for the countdowns, beginning three weeks ahead. There is a New England
dinner, a Heartland, a Southern Style, and a Pacific Northwest. I think
she could have added a Southwest dinner and even a Cajun/Creole dinner
(didn't the deep fried whole brined turkey idea come from Louisiana?).
Each recipe has a page reference. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: for the consummate Thanksgiving Day lover.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for leftovers, try – turkey
sandwiches (several styles), turkey enchiladas, pot pie, tetrazzini,
turkey and andouille sausage gumbo, hash and eggs, turkey and veggie
chowder, turkey chili.
The downside to this book: a couple more menus could be useful, and we
can even apply them to Canada.
The upside to this book: good concept.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

8. A YEAR IN LUCY'S KITCHEN; seasonable recipes and memorable meals
(Random House Canada, 2009, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-679-31458-5, $29.95
US paper covers) is by Lucy Waverman, acclaimed food writer for the
Globe and Mail and the LCBO's Food & Drink magazine, plus several other
cookbooks. Some of the recipes are from the Globe and the LCBO. There's
even some logrolling from former GG Adrienne Clarkson and Chef Lynn
Crawford. It's arranged by month, instead of by season, which makes it
more manageable in handling the local produce and the local holidays.
Each month also has a theme, such as pasta and marmalade for January.
But otherwise, there are no free-standing recipes – everything is tied
into some celebration or theme. With February come bean soups as a
theme, with celebrations for Valentine's Day and Chinese New Year, plus
a family birthday. Husband Bruce contributes thorough wine notes,
suggesting varieties or regions rather than brand names. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no metric table of equivalents. Good use of leading in the layout.
Audience and level of use: for fans and those who want some pre-planned
menus for the year.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for a Spanish dinner, try –
shrimp with Romesco sauce; fideos (noodle nests) with chorizo, mussels
and clams; salad of arugula and artichoke fritters; tarragon-roasted
strawberries with caramel cream,
The downside to this book: it's a paperback, and it'll get heavier-
than-normal use.
The upside to this book: good tight photography of the finished dish
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

 

9. SAVORY BAKING; warm and inspiring recipes for crisp, crumbly, flaky
pastry (Chronicle Books, 2009, 168 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5906-6,
$24.95 US paper covers) is by Mary Cech, a top rated pastry chef in the
USA. She was once Charlie Trotter's pastry chef, and went on to start
the pastry program at the CIA (Greystone) in California. There is a
refreshing lack of logrolling here – she quite plainly does not need
it. The book's arranged by type: quick breads, flaky pastries, rustic,
puff pastries, cookies, and diverse sauces and spreads. She has 72
preps, ranging for easy to engaging. There is the usual baking primer
information on flours, equipment and techniques, including how to work
with pastry. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners and up, plus those who are pastry
AND savoury addicts (like me).
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: buttermilk tarragon loaf;
white cedar-zucchini pancakes; baked pomodori dumplings on an olive
salad; onion and sherry cream turnovers; spicy tomato crumble; chicken
Dijon brown betty; thyme, lemon and sea-salt shortbreads.
The downside to this book: given the need for this book, I should think
that more recipes would have been useful.
The upside to this book: there's a pronouncing glossary in case you
don't know what a pancake is.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

 

10. NORTH BAY FARMERS MARKETS COOKBOOK (Gibbs Smith, 2009, 216 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4236-0313-9, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Brigitte Moran, a
French woman who started the San Rafael farmers market in 1989. In 2004
she joined the Marin Farmers Markets and Marin Agricultural Institute
as their Executive Director. The book, also written with Amelia Spilger
as a focusing food writer, comes endorsed by Wolfgang Puck. It its
basic form, she gives us a history of farmers markets in California,
noting that there are more than 4500 farmers markets all over the USA.
There are sections on slow food and local sustainable agriculture, plus
a suggested reading list, and a resources list for farmers markets in
the North Bay area (north of San Francisco). Other than that, this is a
straightforward book highly useful for California cooks since the
emphasis is on "local" (i.e. local to California) foods. Soups to
desserts are covered, all using locally available seasonal foods.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: mostly Californian cooks, but others who use
fresh foods.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pork tamales; rabbit a la
bretonne; chicken with dates and apricots; baked halibut with red
pepper and onion; avocado and zucchini salad; blueberry-orange tartine;
asparagus and grilled shiitake; baked salmon with tomato, cucumber and
basil beurre blanc.
The downside to this book: as she prefers "sustainable", there is not
too much on organic certified foods.
The upside to this book: upbeat and positive account of people, with
good pix.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

 THE NEW PORTUGUESE TABLE (Clarkson Potter, 2009, 256 pages, ISBN
978-0-307-39441-5, $32.50 US hard covers) is by David Leite, a three-
time Beard Award winning writer and website publisher
(www.leitesculinaria.com). He's also a magazine writer with articles in
Gourmet, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, et al. Notable logrollers endorsing
this book include Anthony Bourdain, Lynne Rosetto Kasper, the Lee
Brothers, and Paula Wolfert. This book is basically a collection of
updated Portuguese classics. Leite was taught by his Portuguese
grandmother to make deeply smoked sausages, use peppers and olive oil,
beans, tomatoes, garlic, and cilantro – as well as seafood. Then he
visited Portugal, and discovered that it had all changed. The cuisine
is lighter and makes use of more ingredients. Here are 100 re-invented
preps for the home cook. All 11 provinces are covered, as well as a
generalized pantry of Portuguese food (complete with a pronunciation
guide) that includes clams, chourico, various herbs and spices, kale,
lard, salt cod, turnip greens and more. He begins with acepipes
(appetizers) and continues with sopas, fish, poultry, carnes, breads,
eggs and veggies, and desserts. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of
equivalents. He has no real discussion on wines, just lists. The book
concludes with a listing of US sources.
Audience and level of use: home cooks and those who have traveled to
Portugal.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cilantro bread soup with
poached eggs; olive oil poached fresh cod with roasted tomato sauce;
Azorean garlic-roasted pork; sweet-sour carrots; cheese-stuffed pork
tenderloin; mini-lamb meatballs.
The downside to this book: the book is weighty because of the paper
needed for the photography.
The upside to this book: there's a good description of Portuguese
queijo.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1. WHAT PRICE BORDEAUX? (Vendange Press, 2009, 292 pages, ISBN 978-1-
934259-20-7, $34.95 US hard covers) is by Benjamin Lewin, Master of
Wine. As a long-time academic and writer of molecular biology, Lewin is
now focusing on wine. In his first book (there are more on the way), he
explores an overview of the financial forces making Bordeaux wines so
pricey today. He scrutinizes the 1855 classification, looking at the
original motives and its modern relevance. The real value of this
classification was to promote the value of the properties contained
therein, to perpetuate the class structure and the pecking order. He
investigated the unique terroir of chateaux, the many brands they
market, the negociant-broker setup, the en premeur system, the
influence of wine writers and winemakers such as Robert Parker or
Michel Rolland, and the rise and fall of individual chateaux through
ownership changes amongst banks and insurance companies. He proposes a
reclassification based on his forensic investigations. He would like
fewer than half of the chateaux to retain their original
classification, and he would like to drop several altogether.
Throughout the book, there are colourful graphs and charts clearly
illustrating his points. There is also a bibliography and many pages of
end notes.
Audience and level of use: a good marketing book, useful for Bordeaux
specialists and wine schools.
Some interesting or unusual facts: find out who is really making money
in Bordeaux.
The downside to this book: physically, the book is hefty to hold – this
is because of the coated paper needed for the colour charts.
The upside to this book: a must read, gripping in its intensity.
Quality/Price Rating: 92.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

The Event: Vintages Platinum Wine Tasting from Wine Australia, Sept 30/09

The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 30, 2009   Noon to 4PM

The Event: Vintages Platinum Wine Tasting from Wine Australia

The Venue: Brassaii Restaurant

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are at Vintages, or will be at Vintages through Feb 9, 2010. Some of them will only be available online. Relevant details in the catalogue were clearly spelled out, with names of importers, release dates, quantities, etc.

The Quote/Background: I had already tasted many of these wines at the last Australian show in August (see my August 2009 notes, and the Yalumba wines last week (see above). So I tasted only some of the other wines. My time was limited because I was to go to a matinee at 1:30.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Evans & Tate The Reserve Chardonnay 2004, +140699, $29.95, Oct online (fave white)

-Evans & Tate X & Y Margaret River Shiraz 2004, +41194, $15.95 Dec 5 (fave red)

-Heartland Director's Cut Shiraz 2007, $31.95, +48496 Oct 24

-Katnook Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, +590471, $29.95 Oct 24

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Rosedale Winery Cat Amongst the Pigeons Alley Cat Shiraz Grenache 2007, $21.95, +127621

-Grant Burge Filsell Old Vine Shiraz 2007, $29.95, +987463 Oct 10

-Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz 2007, +627869, $29.95 Oct 10

-Stonier Chardonnay 2007, $24.95, +25353 Oct 28 VSO

-Katnook Estate Founder's Block Merlot 2004, +141267, $16.95 Nov 7

-Grant Burge Summers Chardonnay 2007, +67315, $19.95 Nov 21

-Richard Hamilton Gumprs McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007, +600122, $18.95 Nov 21

-Katnook Estate Founder's Block Sauvignon Blanc 2008, +122285, $15.95 Jan 9/10

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Coriole Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, +107888, $24.95

-Wakefield Estate Shiraz 2007, +943787, $17.95

-Coriole Redstone Shiraz 2006, +59915, $17.95

-Thorn Clarke Shotfire Shiraz, +18796, $24.95

-Shingleback McLaren Vale Shiraz 2006, +57844, $23.95 Oct 10

-Alkoomi White Label Shiraz, +138560, $14.95, Jan 9/10

-Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz, +743989, $20.95

-Grant Burge Miamba Shiraz, $19.95, +726127

-Glaetzer Wallace Shiraz Grenache 2007, $24.95 +86900 Oct 24

-Glaetzer Anaperenna Shiraz Cabernet 2007, +72926, $59.95 Nov 21

 

The Downside: I could not stay.

The Upside: My colleagues would be pleased with the quality of the wines.

The Contact Person: marnie.williamson@austrade.gov.au

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

TASTING: Tannin Fine Wines Portfolio, Toronto, Sept. 23, 2009

The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 23, 2009  2PM to 7:30 PM

The Event: Tannin Fine Wines portfolio tasting.

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve

The Target Audience: wine media, private clients.

The Availability/Catalogue: most items were on their way, in time for the Christmas rush.

The Quote/Background: Tannin has an eclectic mix, with wines from New York, Chile, Australia, Hungary, France, Oregon, Tuscany, and Greece.

The Wines: 28 wines were on show. Prices are retail.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Step RD 2008 "First Step" Chardonnay Langhorne Creek, $16

-Cartagena Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Chile, $17.

-Neyen 2005 Espiritu d'Apalta Red Colchagua Valley, $76

-Clos del Rey 2004 "Clos del Rey" Cotes du Roussillon, $64.95

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Matisses Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Chile, $15

-Cartagena Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Chile, $20

-Casa Marin Casona Gewurztraminer 2008 Chile, $34

-Heron Hill 2006 Eclipse Red New York, $24 –54%merlot/46%cabernet franc

-Maretima 2007 Primitivo IGT Puglia, $17

-J & J 2006 Sikhegy Kekfrankos Hungary, $21

-Step RD 2006 Blackwing Shiraz Australia, $19.

-Clos del Rey 2006 "Baby del Rey" Pays d'Oc, $25.

-Clos del Rey 2006 "Mas del Rey" Pays d'Oc, $57.

-Riecine La Gioia IGT 2003 Tuscany, $64.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Trevisani Bali Sauvignon Blanc- Chardonnay 2007, $27

-La Reserve St. Dominique 2007 Cotes du Rhone Blanc, $26

-Heron Hill 2006 Ingle Riesling New York, $22

-Casa Marin Miramar Vineyard Riesling 2007, $34.

-A to Z Pinot Gris 2007 Oregon, $23.

-Step RD 2007 "First Step" Merlot Australia, $15.

-Matisses 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Chile, $15.

-A to Z Pinot Noir 2007 Oregon, $33

-Dalamaras 2006 Paliokalias Xinomavro, $34

-Beresford Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 McLaren Vale, $26.

-Beresford Shiraz 2007 McLaren Vale, $26.

 

The Food: bread and water

The Contact Person: Nicholas@tanninfinewines.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

LCBO Vintages Release Oct 24, 2009: some notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR OCTOBER 24, 2009
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is guide to thousands
of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and
spirits, at www.deantudor.com (since 1995). Creator of Canada's leading wine
satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My tastings are based on MVC
(Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio).
Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The
LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers
or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Stella Bella Skuttlebutt Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2008 Margaret
River: much like an upscale Graves, great MVC flavours. +47621, $15.95,
QPR: 90.
2. Xanadu Chardonnay 2008 Margaret River: delicious, Burgundian
character, toast in the length. +27888, $19.95, QPR: 90.
3. Sticks Chardonnay 2006 Yarra Valley: oaking dissipates over time,
fruit shines through. +141274, $19.94, QPR: 90.
4. Chateau des Charmes St. David's Bench Chardonnay 2006 Niagara:
Burgundian quality, deliciously fruit forward, 14% ABV. +430991,
$19.95, QPR: 90.
5. Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Rapel: grassy but fresh, young
vintage, good buy. +396994, $13.95, QPR: 90.
6. Crabilis Vermentino 2008 Sardinia: aromatic, floral, longer length,
best with crab. +52068, $13.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Cabernet/Merlot 2005 Niagara-on-the-
Lake: a food wine, like an aged Bordeaux, quality for the value
pricing, already 4 years old. +222372, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Huntington Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California: lovely off-dry
chocolate and cherries. +994491, $18.95, QPR: 90.
3. Chakana Reserve Malbec 2008 Mendoza: soft, Merlot-like, affordable.
+18671, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Cathedral Cellar Triptych 2006 Coastal Region South Africa: fruity,
aged well, not many oak tones. +53124, $16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau Begadanet 2005 Medoc: MVC, good vintage, approachable now,
what more could you ask for at this price? +138875, $19.95, QPR: 90.
6. Estate Papaioannou Single Vineyard Agiorgitiko 2005 Nemea Greece:
delicious fruity components with a dose of underbrush, garrigue, and
forests. +47977, $18.95, QPR: 90.
7. Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Tuscany:
engaging North American blend. +69377, $14.95, QPR: 90.
8. Sogrape Callabriga 2005 Dao: black fruit, well-developed and aged
wine, best with food. +43638, $19.95, QPR: 90.
9. Beronia Reserva 2005 Rioja: and older feel to the wine, smoke,
mocha, plums, delicious and under-priced. +50203, $17.95, QPR: 91.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are ready to enjoy right now. Consumers
could buy and bring to those restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Pirathon Shiraz 2005 Barossa Valley, +130278, $38.95 retail.
2. Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Adelaide Hills, +965335, $24.95.
3. Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard Pinot Noir Tasmania, +962415, $26.95
4. Megalomaniac Sonofabitch Pinot Noir 2007 Niagara, +85134, $24.95
5. 7 Deadly Zins 2007 Old Vines Lodi, +59311, $24.95.
6. Nicolas Maillet Macon Verze 2007, +702605, $22.95.
7. Max Ferd. Richter Riesling Spatlese 1992 Mulheimer Sonnenlay Mosel,
+140780, $23.95.
8. Le Serre Nuove Dell'Ornellaia 2007 Bolgheri Rosso, +606194, $59.95.
9. Stratus Riesling 2007 Niagara, +131011, $35.50.

 

 

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

 

 

TASTING: Livio Felluga (Friuli), Toronto September 25, 2009

 The Time and Date: Friday, September 25, 2009  2 PM to 6:30PM

The Event: Tasting of Livio Felluga (Friuli) red and white wines.

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve

The Target Audience: wine media, private clients of the agent Le Sommelier, clients of the FWR.

The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted seven wines, all private order except one.

The Quote/Background: The Livio Felluga estate, founded in the mid-1950s, has 160 hillside hectares under vine, with an annual production of some 750,000 bottles. It was one of Italy's first sustainable wineries. Livio is now 95, and still helps.

The Wines: All prices are licensee, and all wines come in six packs.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Livio Felluga Illivio Colli Orientali del Friuli 2007, $49.35 – pinot bianco, chardonnay, and picolit, barrel fermentation and storage in small French oak.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Livio Felluga Vertigo Venezia Giulia IGT 2007, $27.50 – merlot and cabernet sauvignon.

-Livio Felluga Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Colli Orientali del Friuli 2006, $50.83.

-Livio Felluga Sharis delle Venezie IGT 2008, $27.50 – chardonnay and ribolla gialla

-Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio Colli Orientali del Friuli 2008, $36.91 Consignment.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Livio Felluga Friuliano Colli Orientali del Friuli 2008, $37.95

-Livio Felluga Sauvignon Colli Orientali del Friuli 2008, $36.91

 

The Food: charcuterie, cheese, breads.

The Downside: I had just come from a huge LCBO Vintages pre-release tasting.

The Upside: a chance to taste some very fine wines.

The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com