Search This Blog

Thursday, September 22, 2011

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

CUCINA POVERA; Tuscan peasant cooking (Andrews McMeel, 2011; distr.
Simon & Schuster, 185 pages, ISBN 978-1-4494-0238-9, $21.99 US hard
covers) is by Pamela Sheldon Johns, cooking instructor and author of
sixteen cookbooks (many dealing with Italian food). She also hosts
culinary workshops throughout Italy. Log rollers include Lorenza de'
Medici and Nancy Harmon Jenkins. This is a "meager and mean" cookbook
dealing with life's hardships around the time of World War II. "We had
nothing to eat" was a familiar refrain. Scattered throughout are these
memories as Johns dies a great job of presenting both cultural
traditions and peasant food preps. Of course, nothing is wasted in this
"economia rurale". The arrangement is by course: appetizers to
desserts. All of the classics are here, such as ribollita (vegetable-
bread soup), corn polenta, and cantucci (almond biscotti). There's
polenta made with the original chestnut flour, and as well, castgnaccio
(chestnut cake). At the end, there's a page of mail-order and internet
resources. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there are two pages of tables of metric conversions
and equivalents.
Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers, Tuscan especially.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: farmyard crostini; fried
anchovies; eggs with wild greens; spring vegetable soup; farro soup;
braised pork shanks; rabbit and mushrooms; salted cod with greens.
The downside to this book: physically, there's a light beige frame
around each page, suggestive of antiquing and aging.
The upside to this book: a great introduction to peasant food.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Sept 13 - Wines of Brazil in Toronto

The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 13, 2011   10:30 AM to 5 PM

The Event: an all-day wine show featuring "Wines of Brazil"

The Venue: Biagio Ristorante

The Target Audience: wine media and trade

The Availability/Catalogue: hardly anything in Ontario, although some agents do represent Brazilian wineries.

The Quote/Background: this is their third show in Toronto in five years. Almost 90% of wine production comes from Serra Gaucha, in that southern part of Brazil close to Uruguay. There are about 700 wineries in Brazil, but only around 40 seem to want to export through the Wines of Brasil association (www.winesofbrasil.com).

 

The Wines: Ten wineries showed their wines. We began with a seminar about the different Brazilian regions, and tasted some wines (below) that were in the show (prices indicated).

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Salton Desejo Merlot 2007 ($32 USD)

-Santo Emilio Leopoldo 2007 (merlot/cab sauvignon) ($42 USD)

-Sanjo Maestrale Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($40 USD)

-Lidio Carraro Quorum 2006 (cabernets sauvignon and franc, merlot, tannat)

-Pizzato Tannat Reserva 2006, $22 CAN

-Pizzato Concentus 2008 (merlot, cabernet sauvignon, tannat)

-Vinicola Salton Talento 2006 (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, tannat)

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Basso Pinot Noir Brut Rose Monte Paschoal NV ($20 USD)

-Pietro Felice Chardonnay 2011 Reserve 

-Miolo Merlot Terroir 2008 ($24.50 USD)

-Pizzato DNA 99 Single Vineyard Merlot 2005 ($50 USD)

-Basso Moscatel d'Asti

-Basso Merlot 2009

-Casa Valduga Premium Merlot 2008

-Casa Valduga Premium Cabernet Franc 2007

-Casa Valduga Arinarnoa 2007 (merlot and petit verdot)

-Lidio Carraro Da'Divas Pinot Noir 2010

-Lidio Carraro Agnus Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

-Lidio Carraro Elos Touriga Nacional/Tannat 2008

-Miolo Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2009

-Miolo Tannat Reserva 2010

-Pizzato Chardonnay 2010 (unoaked)

-Vinicola Salton Chardonnay 2009, $25 CAN

-Vinicola Salton Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

-Decima Celebrato Moscatel 2010 8% sparkler

-Decima Toro Cabernet/Merlot 2009

-Sanjo Nubio Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Casa Valduga 130 NV Sparkling (chardonnay and pinot noir) ($30 USD)

-Aurora Brut Chardonnay NV ($12 USD)

-Lidio Carraro Da'Divas Chardonnay 2010 ($20 USD)  no oak

-Boutiq Brasil NV Prosecco ($21 USD)

-Aurora Merlot 2008, $12.95 CAN

-Aurora Pinot Noir 2010, $12.95 CAN

-Aurora Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $15 CAN

-Basso Brut NV

-Basso Delicato Pinot Noir 2009

-Casa Valduga Chardonnay 2011 (no oak)

-Casa Valduga Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

-Lidio Carraro Agnus Merlot 2009

-Lidio Carraro Elos Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2008

-Miolo Millesime Brut NV

-Miolo Pinot Noir Reserva 2010

-Miolo Chardonnay Reserva 2010

-Miolo Pinot Grigio Reserva 2010

-Miolo Cuvee Giuseppe 2009 (merlot and cabernet sauvignon)

-Miolo Quinta do Seival 2008

-Pizzato Fausto Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

-Pizzato Merlot Reserva 2008

-Vinicola Salton Sauvignon Blanc Volpi 2011, $20 CAN

-Vinicola Salton Classic Tannat Reserva 2011

-Decima Boutiq Brasil Prosecco NV

-Decima Stellato Rose Brut NV

-Decima Cordon d'Or Meio Doce NV

-Decima Cordon d'Or Tannat 2009

 

The Food: the media had a luncheon, with other wines (listed above). It was a traditional Italian meal, beginning with bruschetta and apps (Aurora sparkler), funghi trifolati (sauteed mushrooms, goat cheese, phyllo pastry, served with Da'Divas Chardonnay), ravioli venison (but no wine), veal scaloppini (Pizzato DNA Merlot), and tiramisu (Boutiq NV Prosecco). The trade show had cheeses, breads, and fresh tropical fruits.

The Downside: more Brazilian wines are sold in Quebec than in Ontario.

The Upside: there was some active participation from the agents. Wine Guru has Aurora and Pizzato, HHD Imports had Casa Valduga, Halpern had Lidio Carraro, Wine World had Miolo, and Cipelli had Salton.

The Contact Person: spuritt@hotmail.com

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 88

 

 
 

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Celebration of "tasteUS", Sept 7/11

The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 7, 2011  6 PM to 8 PM

The Event: a celebration of the current "tasteUS" campaign, hosted by the Ambassador of the United States.

The Venue: Hockey Hall of Fame, Great Hall

The Target Audience: wine and food media

The Availability/Catalogue: US foods are available from time to time, as are the wines. Beers may be special ordered. Some items like cheeses face quotas.

The Quote/Background: the Foreign Agricultural Service of the USDA works to improve foreign market access for US products. Various trade groups were repped tonight, including Almond Board of California, California Cherry Advisory Board, California Agricultural Export Council, National Sunflower Association, plus many more food, wine and beer groups.

The Wines: There were 11 beers, but I didn't really taste any. I enjoyed Smuttynose Start Island Single and Samuel Adams Tripel. Other beers came from Saranac, Morimoto, and Shipyard.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2007

-Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc Sonoma 2007

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut

-Buena Vista Carneros Pinot Noir 2007

-Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay

-Kenneth Volk Chardonnay Santa Maria 2008

-Fourteen Hands Hot to Trot Red Blend 2009

-Sonoma Junction Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

-Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling Finger Lakes 2008

-Fetzer Gewurztraminer Mendocino 2009

-Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma 2008

-Osprey's Dominion Vineyards Long Island Merlot Reserve 2007

 

The Food: the food was first rate, crafted by "Catering by Entertainment" using US products. There were seven courses, with recommended wine and beer pairings (usually four or more per course). It was a stand up affair, and we went to a variety of tables. Cold appetizers included an apple slaw tart, a watermelon and feta brochette, and wine poached pear. The hot apps featured a white beans tapenade, sweet potato fries, and polenta cake with Boursin. The hot savoury courses included boneless beef short ribs in smokey tomato jus, over wild and white rice; pistachio-crusted pork tenderloin with pomegranate sauce; honey glazed catfish on green onion pancakes; and a fennel and chevre terrine. Desserts involved strawberries, apricots, oranges, chocolate, caramel, peanuts and grapes.

The Downside: it had been six years since the last feature show, in 2005 – where have they been all this time?

The Upside: it was a good chance to look at a variety of wines and beers at the bar, and there was constant movement around the people, the bars, and the food tables. Plus I got my picture taken with the Stanley Cup.

The Contact Person: agottawa@fas.usda.gov

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 90

 

 
 

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Sept 17/11: LCBO Vintages release -- some tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR  SEPTEMBER 17, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are normally not available
for re-tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. EOS Chardonnay 2008 Central Coast: expect some elegance, burgundian
style. Notes of vanilla and cream although the back label does not
mention use of oak. 13.5% ABV. +955914, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Santa Ana La Mascota Chardonnay 2010 Mendoza: rich, ripe and full,
somewhat fleshy, some barrel aging. 14% ABV. +126870, $14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Marlborough: straight-forward NZ
savvy, good zesty finish, 13.5% ABV. +981670, $15.95, QPR: 89.
4. Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc 2010 WO Darling South Africa: impressive
body and concentration and zest for the price, twist top, 13.5% ABV.
+235895, $14.95, QPR: 90.
5. Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2009 Alsace: off-dry in texture,
significant mouthfeel, nicely bitterish, Gold Medal winner. Phenomenal
price. +224626, $16.95, QPR: 90.
6. Terra d'Alter Reserva White 2010 Alentejano: partially fermented and
aged in oak, indigenous grapes plus viognier, all combine for a creamy,
vanilla tone. 13.5% ABV. +219212, $13.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. A by Acacia Pinot Noir 2008 California: basic MVC but delicious –
with body, substance and flavours. 13.5% ABV. +118927, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Michel Torino Don David Reserve Malbec 2009 Cafayate Valley
Argentina: black juicy fruits, some tightness that needs opening up,
long food finish. +64998, $12.95, QPR: 89.
3. Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2009 Padthaway: full black flavours, minty,
several gold medals. +673897, $16.95, QPR: 89.
4. Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Shiraz/Cabernet/Petit Verdot 2008
Barossa: a powerful hit at 15% ABV, creamy oak, blessed by a high
Parker number. +684357, $14.95, QPR: 89.
5. Slowine Shiraz 2009 WO Overberg South Africa: engaging wine hits all
the notes of smoke, pepper, fruit, twist top, 14.5% ABV, and priced to
move. +96503, $13.95, QPR: 89.
6. Chateau Landonnet 2008 Bordeaux: one of your more modestly priced
Bordeaux, delicious fruit, long finish, 13% ABV. +243931, $13.95, QPR:
89.
7. Chateau Le Grand Moulin Cuvee Collection 2008 Premieres Cotes de
Blaye: needs time for tannins to resolve but it is all there, great
price, 13% ABV, Gold Medalist, great MVC. +245357, $15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Rivera Violante Nero di Troia 2008 Puglia: tasty, earthy and dark
cherries, good finish, 13.5% ABV. +583435, $15.95, QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay 2007 Arroyo Seco, +225375, $24.95
retail.
2. Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay 2009 Sonoma Coast, +251223,
$64.95.
3. Clairaut Estate Chardonnay 2008 Margaret River, +246892, $39.95
4. Wolf Blass Premium Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 South
Australia, +321927, $22.95
5. Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, +84996, $24.95
6. Chateau Lacoste Borie 2008 Pauillac, +249011, $39.95
7. Chateau Pontet Chappaz 2008 Margaux, +243956, $39.95
8. Domaine Du Haut des Terres Blanches Chateauneuf du Pape 2007,
+177618, $37.95
9. LAN Gran Reserva 2003 Rioja, +928622, $26.95

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Aug 28/11: Tasting menu at Tempest Restaurant, Wolfville NS

The Time and Date: Sunday August 28, 2011 7 PM to 11 PM
The Event: Tasting menu at Tempest Restaurant, Wolfville NS
The Venue: Tempest Restaurant
The Target Audience: seven diners, at two separate tables.
The Availability/Catalogue: wines were available in NS
The Quote/Background: tasting menus are available for four or more at
about $75 a person, plus wines. We split the wines by seven people,
about 3.5 oz each, and about $43 each (plus tax and gratuity).
Disclaimer: Tempest Restaurant is owned by my daughter and son-in-law.
The Wines:
-Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 Gaspereau Valley
-Grand Pre Tidal Bay 2010 White blend Nova Scotia, 11% ABV
-Blomidon Tidal Bay 2010 White blend Nova Scotia, 10.6% ABV
-Saladini Pilastri Falerio 2010 DOC, 13% ABV, organic
-Casa Patronales Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Maule, 13.5% ABV
-Louis Latour Pinot Noir 2009 Burgundy
-Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico 2004, 13.5% ABV
-Grand Pre Pomme d'Or, 10% ABV
The Food: Here was the tasting menu, as prepared by Chef Michael Howell
– always based on what he has on hand.
* Focaccia, olive oil and balsamic vinegar, with Nova 7 as
aperitif.
* Warm shrimp sushi with house-made ginger pickle, Tidal Bay
* Roasted golden beet cappuccino, decorated with red beet foam, Falerio
* Caprese salad (fried basil leaf and pancetta, 3 kinds of tomato,
fresh local mozzarella, baby arugula, 25-year old balsamic).
* Pork cheek, layered golden beet and goat cheese, with the Sauvignon
Blanc
* Arctic char with smoked tomato and lobster mushroom risotto, basil
oil, Pinot Noir.
* Leg of lamb (centre cut) with blackberries and salad, Chianti
Classico.
* Trio of desserts: Jamaican rum cake, chocolate bunuelo, strawberry sorbet,
with iced cider Pomme d'Or.
* Coffees, etc.
The food, of course, was terrifically laid out and garnished with
thought. The wait staff was first rate, with a full explanation of the
wines. Chef was busy, but he appeared to chat with both tables during the
dessert. The service of the plates was leisurely and unhurried. Plenty
of time to talk and discuss the food and life. The wines were pretty
good accompaniments to the food, considering that (apart from the
aperitif) they were modestly priced. It has always been my belief that
good food will always pick up a modest wine (but great wines will not
do the same to modest food). Tidal Bay is a new designation for Nova
Scotia. Each winery can make one, but it has to be a blended white, about
11% ABV, slightly off-dry, and so forth. Variations would be allowed in
percentages of grape varieties used. Certainly Tidal Bay(s) would go
well with sushi. I sipped at the beet cappuccino since I am not a fan
of beets. But my wife is, and she loved it. Falerio is an off-dry white
that perfectly matched an earthy taste. With the impressive caprese
salad, we had the leftover wines up to that point. The local pork cheek, crisply fried.
was stacked like a pagoda. It must have taken quite a while to do seven
of these! The pan-fried char, always a fave of mine, was slightly dominated by
the smoked tomato, but the texture of the lobster mushrooms was a punchy
addition to the risotto. The entry-level Pinot Noir was the weakest wine of the menu,
low in flavour. But it is a big seller because of its price. At least
it did not dominate, unlike the heavier Chianti Classico. But the lamb
stood up to it, or at least the blackberry sauce did. Desserts were a
treat, especially the chocolate bunuelo with the iced apple cider.
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 91
 
 

Friday, September 9, 2011

Some new wines in Ontario

1. SKN Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa Valley, +218834, $16.96 General
List: currently, this is the only red Napa Valley wine on the General
List. It is being promoted as such. SKN stands for "Screw Kappa Napa",
a sort-of West Coast fraternity (Greek letters would have been a nice
logo). The wine comes from Don Sebastiani & Sons. Expect a mid-weight
wine (low oaking levels), with 13.5% ABV but expressive of typical Napa
flavour MVC components – tobacco leaf, cedar, dark berry fruits, mocha,
cloves from the oak. It is ready to drink now (the 2007 is about four
years old).
 
2. THE GOOD WINE RIESLING 2010 VQA Niagara, $20 at winery
www.goodearthfoodandwine.com: small lot production (155 cases), 9% ABV,
twist top, sugar code of 2, something along the lines of an MVC Moselle
profile. Expect juicy orchard fruit after tropical fruit aromatics,
best for service on patios or at parties with appetizers.
 
3. [yellowtail] Bubbles NV, +50625 Vintages, $13.95: a lazy day of lazy
citric bubbles, wafting upwards – several days after opening. The re-
launch of Bubbles now has a new closure that allows for resealing for
freshness for up to five days. It works. But it is hard to believe that
people actually want to reseal any sparkling wine beyond a few hours.
There's 11.5% ABV, and the taste goes up against the Prosecco market.
For more details, try www.facebook.com/yellowtailcanada.
 
 

Tasting of August 26 in Nova Scotia

The Time and Date: Friday, August 26, 2011  4PM to 6 PM
The Event: wine tastings at Tempest Restaurant, Wolfville Nova Scotia
The Venue: Tempest Restaurant
The Target Audience: me
The Availability/Catalogue: wines are available in Nova Scotia
The Quote/Background: this was an opportunity to taste some local and
international wines being brought into Tempest Restaurant for wine list
consideration.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sebastiani Pepperwood Grove Viognier 2007 California, 13.5% ABV
-Jim Barry The McCrae Wood Shiraz 2004 Clare Valley, 15% ABV
-Evans and Tate The Reserve Chardonnay 2003 Margaret River, 14.5% ABV
-Jeff Carrel Puydeval IGP Pays D'Oc 2009, 14% ABV
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-The Wolf Trap Viognier 40/Chenin Blanc 39/Grenache Blanc 21 2010 South
Africa, 14.5% ABV
-Terredora Loggia della Serra Greco di Tufo DOCG 2009, 13.5% ABV
-Annapolis Highland Vineyards Geisenheim Riesling 2010 Nova Scotia, 12%
ABV
-Saladini Pilastri Falerio 2010 DOC, 13% ABV, organic
-Luckett Vineyard Triumphe D'Alsace 2010 Gaspereau Valley Nova Scotia,
13% ABV
-Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 Gaspereau Valley
-Grand Pre Tidal Bay 2010 White blend Nova Scotia, 11% ABV
-Casa Patronales Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Maule, 13.5% ABV
-Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico 2004, 13.5% ABV
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling 2009 Germany, 11% ABV
-Kim Crawford Dry Riesling 2007 Marlborough, 12.5% ABV
-Alido Sangiovese di Toscana IGT 2009, 13% ABV
-Fleur du Cap Shiraz 2009 WO Western Cape, 14% ABV
-De Stefani Kreda 2007 Refosco Veneto, 14% ABV
-L. Perdrier Brut Excellence NV Cote d'Or, 11% ABV
-Blomidon Tidal Bay 2010 White blend Nova Scotia, 10.6% ABV
-Louis Latour Pinot Noir 2009 Burgundy
-Grand Pre Pomme d'Or, 10% ABV
 
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 89
 

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Sept 10/11: LCBO's SPECIAL ONTARIO WINES RELEASE: some notes

SPECIAL ONTARIO WINES RELEASE: some notes
 
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 10, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cave Spring Estate Chardonnay 2009 CS Vineyard VQA Beamsville: one
of the nicest under $20 chards in Ontario, expressive of orchard fruit,
toasty finish, capable of aging. +256552, $18.95, QPR: 90.
2. Featherstone Gewurztraminer 2010 VQA Twenty Mile Bench: dynamite,
just like an Alsatian with true bitterness bite in the finish. +64592,
$19.95, QPR: 90.
3. Flat Rock Chardonnay 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench: prize-winning chard
with tropicality, lightly oaked and nicely integrated. +681247, $16.95,
QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. 13th Street Premier Cuvee [MC] VQA Niagara, +142679, $29.95 retail.
2. Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Four Mile Creek,
+79228, $24.95.
3. Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Niagara,
+33894, $30.
 

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Aug 26/11: Luckett Vineyards Nova Scotia tasting.

The Time and Date:  Friday August 26, 2011   2PM to 3PM
The Event: a tasting of wines at Luckett Vineyards, Gaspereau Valley in
Nova Scotia.
The Venue: Luckett Vineyards
The Target Audience: me.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available at the winery. The
selling area appears to be a pastiche of wine bins, done to great
effect.
The Quote/Background: There's about 100 acres of land, with 16 acres
devoted to vineyards and 75 acres to fruit. Peter Luckett wants to
develop his fruit wines, such as apple, blackberry, black currants,
local cranberries, and Montmorency cherries. He's also quite keen on
growing a variety of French hybrids such as Luci Kuhlman, Marechal
Foch, Triumph d'Alsace, Leon Millot, L'Acadie, Ortega, and Vidal.
The winery is known for its British Phone Booth sited in the middle of
a vineyard, in full working order.
The Wines:  Most reds are aged six months in US oak.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Triumph D'Alsace 2010, $19 – 6 months US oak, best after it has been
open awhile.
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-L'Acadie Blanc 2010, $19 – US oaked
-Ortega 2010, $22 – off-dry
-Vidal Icewine 2010, 375 mL, $27 – US oaked.
-Apple Icewine 2010, 200 mL, $22 – cryogenic extraction
-Apple Cranberry 2010, 375 mL, $15
-Cherry Dessert, 500 mL, $25
-Sparkling Blackcurrant Apple, NV, $19
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Phone Box Red 2010, $20 – blend of Kuhlman (40%), Foch, Triumph, and
Millot, US oak, 13.5% ABV
-Leon Millot 2010, $19
 
The Contact Person: wine@luckettvineyards.com
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 87
 
 
 

Monday, September 5, 2011

Italian wine survey

From Francesca Bindocci, an Italian student from Montalcino,
studying at University of Siena. Her father, Fabrizio Bindocci, runs the
winery Il Poggione in Montalcino. She's writing a master thesis on wine
marketing and, in particular, on the Canadian market. The central topic is a
survey that she's conducting in Canada: its purpose is
to understand the knowledge of people on Italian wines (and, in particular,
on Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico) and if consumers are
influenced by the country of origin when purchasing a bottle of wine.

Here is the link for the survey:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?hl=en_US&formkey=dFhjZHFQbHJQbTN6Rk1feE5aeF84eXc6MA#gid=0 It is quick, private, and useful. You might want to try it.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Recent Noteworthy Cookbooks...

MODERN BUFFETS; blueprint for success (John Wiley, 2012 [sic], 208
pages, ISBN 978-0-470-48466-1, $82.95 CAN hard covers) is by Edward G.
Leonard, a much-awarded chef who is currently VP of Le Cordon Bleu
North America. He is also one of 66 worldwide Certified Master Chefs.
In this book, he presents the case for matching flavours and foods with
ease of service and visual appeal. Along the way, he delves into
history, logistics, and setup. The menu planning includes blueprint
drawing for layout. The 92 recipes cover breakfasts (spring rolls,
Florentines, waffles), lunches (lobster claws, sandwiches, salads),
dinners (baked fishes, pan-seared salmon, tomato tatin, skate wing),
finger foods, shooters, a variety of tapas, and desserts. Service is
for 6 to 8, and can be multiplied. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of equivalents. A good book for the professional who can write
off the cost of the book.
Audience and level of use: restaurants or caterers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tomato tatin, pan-roasted
veal loin, fried veal cheeks, savory bread pudding, sous vide salmon,
morel potato cake, potato and lentil salad with roasted duck breast.
The downside to this book: a brutal price ($82.95; $66.36 at Amazon.ca)
for such a slim book.
The upside to this book: some flair.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 
 
 
4. THE FIRST REAL KITCHEN COOKBOOK; recipes and tips for new cooks
(Chronicle Books, 2011, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-7810-4, $22.95 US
soft covers) is by Megan an Jill Carle, who are not chefs. Megan is a
vegetarian, while Jill is an omnivore. It's a basic book, sure to
appeal to young readers and cooks, with a lot of concentration on
pasta, rice and grains. There's a section on vegetables, another on
pasta, a third on seafood, followed by chicken beef, pork, and
desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners, college students.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: oven-baked fish and chips,
green chile-cheese meatloaf, white bean soup, Dublin coddle.
The downside to this book: there are lots of other junior books out
there, and this is just the latest.
The upside to this book: good tips.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 
 
 

5. THE GLORIOUS PASTA OF ITALY (Chronicle Books, 2011, 280 pages, ISBN
978-0-8118-7259-1, $30 US hard covers) is by Dominica Marchetti, a food
writer and cooking school instructor who specializes in Italian
cookery. She has written two other Italian books for Chronicle, so I
guess it is pasta's turn. There's log rolling from such as Michael
Chiarello and Giuliano Hazan, but I'm still not sure the world needs
another pasta book. They've been around for decades, especially at the
lower price range of Sunset or Betty Crocker. And here, there are very
few photos of pasta dishes and some of fresh shapes.. Most would have a
red or green sauce, and to see page after page would be disheartening.
Nevertheless I love the empty dish frontispiece…There's the usual
primer material and the collection of classic and contemporary preps.
These are her fave dishes, but still thirty dollars is a lot of money
for a pasta book. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. The arrangement is by course, so there is a chapter on
pasta in soup, baked pasta, stuffed pasta, and "showstoppers" (a bit
more complicated, and my favourite chapter).
Audience and level of use: pasta lovers, those new to Italian cooking.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: duck egg fettuccine with
pickled ramps, poached chicken thighs, and pesto; anellini alla
pecorara; miller's wife pasta; spinach codetta with sausage and peas;
baked zucchini and mushroom agnolotti with pesto béchamel. And a "Big
Night" timballo.
The downside to this book: pricey for a pasta book
The upside to this book: some unusual preps.
Quality/Price Rating: 81.
 
 
 
6. CHAR-BROIL CANADA GRILLS! (Creative Homeowner, 2011; distr. T.
Allen, 303 pages, ISBN 978-1-58011-525-4, $26.95 CAN paper covers) is a
collection of some 222 recipes for grill work. Of course, they want you
to use a Char-Broil (Char-Broil is America's largest grill brand; it
was founded in 1948). I'm not sure what the point is in having it be
"Canada Grills" since the publisher and the product are US
corporations. In fact, there is virtually the same book is the US
called "America Grills!" with the same introduction, recipes, photos,
etc. The only variance between the two is the chapter on resources:
there are more Canadian web resources in the Canada book than are in
the America book. Nevertheless, this is a solid introduction to grill
work, with a primer, apps, beef, pork, poultry, lamb, seafood, sides,
marinades and rubs. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners or Char-Broil purchasers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: yogurt-mint chicken; grilled
oysters; sliders; cowboy-style beef ribs; lamb kabobs; grilled tuna;
stuffed squid with sausage.
The downside to this book: with all the photos and magazine weight
paper, the book is very heavy.
The upside to this book: price is ok, $21 at Amazon.ca
Quality/Price Rating: 84.
 
 
 
7. JOHN SCHREINER'S BC COASTAL WINE TOUR GUIDE; the wineries of the
Fraser Valley, Vancouver, Vancouver Island, and the Gulf Islands
(Whitecap, 2011, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-042, 224 pages, $19.95 CAN
paper covers) has been derived from a series of BC wine books by
Schreiner. It is a companion to his Okanagan Wine Tour Guide, and thus
set up the same way. Here is a listing of some 65 wineries, along with
maps on the inside front cover. In common with his Okanagan book,
Schreiner gives us the directory-type data of address, phone number,
when opened, web site, best times to visit, and the like. There are
some small black and white photos of the winery and/or the owners, plus
accompanying detail on winery life. He lists the wines and wine styles
of each place, and then gives his "picks".
Audience and level of use: winery visitors to BC, armchair travelers.
Some interesting facts: "The coastal wineries, being younger than
Okanagan wineries, have yet to promote themselves aggressively beyond
their local markets"
The downside to this book: a bit more restrictive than the Okanagan
book.
The upside to this book: good details on an emerging Canadian wine
region.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

8. QUICK AND EASY MEXICAN COOKING (Chronicle Books, 2011, 168 pages,
ISBN 978-0-8118-7232-4, $22.95 US soft covers) is by Cecilia Hae-Jin
Lee, a food writer who has also written "Quick and Easy Korean
Cooking". That book should have more appeal than this current one, for
there is a veritable flood of Mexican food books on the market today,
many priced well-under this effort. Nevertheless, there are some 80 or
so preps here that are straightforward for breakfast, lunch, snacks,
grilling, dinner and desserts. There's a section on salsas, another on
salads, a third on soups, and then the mains. There are a few mail
order sources and a bibliography for books on the foods and culture of
Mexico. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: Mexican food lovers or those looking for
"quick and easy"
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: churros, breaded steak,
baked tortilla chips, fried squash, lime and chicken soup, Baja-style
fish tacos, chicken taquitos.
The downside to this book: there's a lot of competition out there.
The upside to this book: there's a listing of nine menus, all with page
references, embracing fancy dinners, BBQ, street food, vegetarian, and
kids food.
Quality/Price Rating: 82.
 
 
 
9. THE BOOK OF FUNGI; a life-size guide to six hundred species from
around the world (University of Chicago Press, 2011, 656 pages, ISBN
978-0-226-72117-0, $55 US hard covers) is by Peter Roberts (former
mycologist at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew) and Shelley Evans (former
conservation officer for the British Mycological Society). Both have
published widely and both have been extensively involved with
mycological field trips. It is a heavily illustrated book, with about
2000 colour pix. Each of the 600 or so species is colourfully
reproduced at its actual size, along with an explanation of its
distribution, habitat, association, abundance, growth form, spore
colour, and edibility. There are location maps for global distribution.
Occasionally, the strange habits of some of these fungi will be noted.
Covered, of course, are chanterelles, mushrooms, morels, puffballs,
toadstools, and truffles.
Audience and level of use: libraries, mycology students.
Some interesting or unusual facts: a 1.5 pound white truffle sold for
$150,000 at a charity auction in 2009.
The downside to this book: with all the pix, this is a very physically
heavy book.
The upside to this book: great illustrations.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 

10. START YOUR OWN FOOD TRUCK BUSINESS (Entrepreneur Press, 2011, 176
pages, ISBN 978-1-59918-414-1, $19.95 US paper covers) is a perfect
food business niche book. Here you will find just about all you'll need
to know to begin an operation in the US for a cart, a trailer, a kiosk,
gourmet truck, mobile catering, and a "bustaurant" (diner on wheels).
The book is one of a "Start Up" series from the publisher: there are
over 60 of them, including such hospitality related themes as bar and
club, bed and breakfast, gift baskets, and restaurants. The book opens
with a history of the mobile food business before moving on to the
types of customers being catered to. There are business plans to
consider. There's the menu and suppliers to deal with, as well as
parking, licenses, work environment, cleaning and personal health, and
staffing. At the end, there are notes on how to franchise and how to
sell your business. The appendix details food truck resources such as
business associations, credit bureaus, small business software, recipe
websites, and the like.
Audience and level of use: anybody wanting to start a mobile food
business, or just the curious.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: there's a good number of
checklists that are really useful.
The downside to this book: US-based material.
The upside to this book: there is an informative glossary.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
11. A GREEN GUIDE TO TRADITIONAL COUNTRY FOODS; discover traditional
ways to cure and smoke, pickle and preserve, make cheese, bake and more
(Cico Books, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 192 pages, $24.95 US hard covers)
has been assembled by Henrietta Green (no relation to the title); it is
one of the "Green Guides" (housekeeping, backyard farm, organic pot
crops, fruits) put out by Cico. This is a book about making things from
scratch, so be prepared to work. You must love cooking, as I am sure we
all do. The six chapters each cover a different theme: there's dairy
(making cheese, yogurt, butter, buttermilk, cream cheese); bakery
(making granary bread, sourdough starter, focaccia, piecrust); candy
(making chocolate truffles, fudge, marshmallows); pantry (making
vinegars, chutneys, jams, syrups); butcher (making sausages, terrine,
bresaola, potted ham); and smoking (making salmon, bacon). Along the
way there are techniques to learn, such as brining, cold smoking, hot
smoking, and sourdoughs. At the end, there are some useful addresses,
mainly American, but there are at least nine from Canada and a few more
from the UK and France. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those cooks who feel inspired enough to
begin cooking from scratch.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beef in buttermilk; beet,
goat cheese, and pine nut salad with Melba toast; wild mushroom and
garlic pizza; beet chutney; onion marmalade; chorizo sausages.
The downside to this book: there was no room for alternatives such as
low-fat or low-sugar or gluten-free preps.
The upside to this book: a good inspirational resource tool for cooks
who want to move up.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.