Search This Blog

Loading...

Tuesday, August 23, 2016

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * (Cooking with Beer, 2016)

 
COOKING WITH BEER (Dog 'n' Bone, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-909313-89-7, $19.95 USD hardbound) is by Mark Dredge, a multiple UK beer writing award winner for 2011, 2013, and 2014. He has written other books, such as Craft Beer World. One of his earlier books was Beer and Food, all about pairing beers with foods. Here, he is actually cooking with beer, specifically, lagers, IPAs, wheat beers, stouts and others, in about 65 recipes. Every occasion is covered, from brunches to mains and desserts. He's got an Ultimate section, for preps that use a variety of beers. For example, the Ultimate beer burger prep will have a beer cheese sauce (p105), beer brioche buns (p114), beer ketchup (p118), snakebite pickles (p60), smoked beer mayo (p90), beer-baked fries (p34), beer onions (p102) and beer-caramelized bacon (p102) – using eight different types of beer! Beer is added to everything except to the beef itself, which of course should be top quality needing only salt and pepper. What goes with the Ultimate beer burger, as a drink? How about an IPA he writes? But in my mind, I picture a bock beer. There's an Ultimate beer pizza and beer quesadilla too – all that guy food. Preparations have their ingredients listed in some metric with avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beer lovers, those looking for a novel twist.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for dessert, try a milk stout ice cream or IPA honey cornbread, or PBK crumble cakes.
The downside to this book: too short, needs more preps.
The upside to this book: covers all courses.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, August 18, 2016

My wine bargains of the month: South African white and fizz...

Cathedral Cellar Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2010 WO Western Cape South Africa, +462762, $16.95 Vintages: this probably the closest non-Champagne I have ever had, one that tastes like Champagne – creamy, small bubbles, great mousse and nose, yeasty biscuit character, and some aging with hazelnuts. It is Traditional Method (MC) of secondary fermentation in the bottle, and it is now 6.5 years old. Made mainly from chardonnay with some pinot noir and two years ageing on the lees. 12% ABV. Please bring it back !! Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
AND
 
Thelema Mountain Vineyards Sutherland Chardonnay 2012 WO Elgin South Africa, +146423, $15.95 Vintages: another fine chardonnay from South Africa, with both fresh fruit and toasty butterscotch plus some great bottle aging, a very over-the-top wine but not heavily oaked. Extremely long length, with a tang. 13.5% ABV. Very affordable and worth while. Buy it all up! And LCBO, please bring it back!! Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for August 20, 2016.

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for August 20, 2016.
=======================================================================
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.
 
This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com
 
WINE VALUE OF THE MONTH: RED-Vina Olabarri Crianza 2011 Rioja, +461277, $14.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 92.
 
20 under $20
=========
W-Calamus Steely Chardonnay 2013 VQA Niagara, +210062, $14.95, 12.7% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay Musque 2014 CSV VQA Beamsville Bench, +246589, $16.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2014 VQA Niagara, +89029, $18.30, 10% ABV,  MVC/QPR:88
W-Trail Estate Riesling 2014 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, +468082, $19.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +734798, $18.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.
W-Spier Vintage Selection Chenin Blanc 2015 WO Swartland, +455618, $16.95, MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2014 Alsace, +224626, $19.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.
W-Schloss Schonborn Riesling 2011 Rheingau, +653535, $16.95, MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Contini Pariglia Vermentino di Sardegna 2014, +455238, $18.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Val de Vid Verdejo 2015 Rueda, +452086, $14.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Agostino Inicio Malbec 2014 Mendoza, +330670, $14.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Gouguenheim Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Mendoza, +194290, $14.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Robert Oatley Signature Series Shiraz 2014 Barossa, +460907, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Chateau Lamothe-Vincent Intense 2014 Bordeaux, +458588, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Chateau La Bastide Optimee Corbieres 2011, +448662, $19.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Domaine de l'Arnesque Cotes du Rhone 2014, +223487, $14.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Velenosi Brecciarolo Rosso Piceno Superiore 2013 Marche, +732560, $13.95, 13.5%ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Jose Maria da Fonseca Domini 2012 Douro, +452730, $13.95, 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Alceno Premium 50 Barricas Syrah 2012 Jumilla, +398933, $14.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Alidis Tinto 6 Messes en Barrica 2011 Ribera del Duero, +461335, $15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
 
20 over $20
=========
W-Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 VQA Prince Edward County, +148866, $29,    MVC/QPR: 90.
W-Diamond Ridge Chardonnay 2014 Napa, +458794, $22.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.
W-La Crema Chardonnay 2014 Sonoma Coast , +962886, $29.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.
W-Andre Goichot Les Guignottes Montagny 2014, +455139, $26.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Jean Collet & Fils Montee de Tonnerre Chablis 1er Cru 2014, +405720, $37.95, 12.5% ABV,
MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Saint Claire Chablis 2014, +356634, $23.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR:
89.
W-Les Charmelles Sancerre 2014, +448571, $27.95, 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Mario Schiopetto Bianco 2011 UGT Venezia Giulia, +382374, $42.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Norman Hardie County Unfiltered Pinot Noir 2014 VQA Prince Edward County, +125310, $45.20, 10.9% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.
R-Duckhorn Goldeneye Pinot Noir 2012 Anderson Valley, +659854, $69.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel 2014, +942599, $21.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Don Sebastiani Sivas-Sonoma Old Vine Zinfandel 2013 Sonoma County, +291096, $24.95, 15%  ABV.  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 2013 Dundee Hills Oregon, +961284, $52.95, 13.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-L'Expression de Margaux 2010 Margaux, +431734, $33.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Monterinaldi Campopazzo Chianti Classico 2012, +454512, $20.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Losi Millennium Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2010, +459735, $39.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012, +356220, $49.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.
R-Bod. Balbas Ritus Special Selection 2010 Ribera del Duero, +461236, $21.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.
R-Calandro Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 IGT Toscana, +455519, $22.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulcano 2012, +685180, $33.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, August 14, 2016

GUEST COOKBOOK REVIEWER: ANN TUDOR LOOKS AT "Chickpea Flour Does It All"

Chickpea Flour (a new book) August 14, 2016 Ann Tudor
 
In case you hadn't noticed, there's been a lot of hoopla the last few years about wheat. Everybody and her brother avoids bread and pasta. And, full disclosure, I admit that I have stopped making bread, stopped eating wheat, and have a cupboard overwhelmingly stocked with the non-wheat baking staples: rice flour (brown and white), teff flour, millet flour, buckwheat flour, sorghum flour, potato starch, tapioca starch, and almond flour. Plus a few others for good measure.
 
I just found a new cookbook that might change everything. Chickpea Flour Does It All, by Lindsey S. Love (New York: The Experiment, LLC, 2016).  The subtitle describes it as "Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free, Vegetarian Recipes for Every Taste and Season." I highly recommend this book.
 
Divided by seasons and subdivided by months, the book features soups, appetizers, main dishes, crackers and breads, and desserts for every season. Spices and herbs from many cultures enliven the dishes, so you will never get bored. The vegetarian dishes are inventive and inviting, full of flavour and colour.
 
Most of us know, however, that you can eat gluten-free very easily in all categories except bread. So what's particularly helpful in this book are the variations on the "bread" theme: in addition to the expected socca (also called farinata or panisse) you'll find flatbreads, wraps, pancakes, crackers, pie crusts, biscuits, brownies, and muffins--all made with chickpea flour.
 
One of the recipes I tried was for "Ratatouille Tartlets".  I'm a sucker for tarts, tartlets, pie crusts in any form, and I particularly hunger for them because making wheat-free versions is a royal pain. Lindsey Love's tartlet recipe was so easy and so delicious that I'll be making it for other kinds of fillings as well. Here's her tartlet recipe:
 
 
1 1/2 c. (GF) rolled oats
1 c. chickpea flour
1/2 c. sunflower seeds
2 T sesame seeds
1 t. sea salt
1/4 t. freshly ground pepper
1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil
1/4 c. ice water
 
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease six tartlet pans and place them on a baking sheet; set aside. In a food processor fitted with a metal S blade, pulse together the oats, flour, seeds, sea salt and pepper until finely ground, about 30 seconds. Place the pulsed mixture in a large bowl, pour in the oil and water, mix thoroughly with a fork until mixture is wet and clumpy. Divide the dough evenly among the tart pans, pressing the dough into the bottoms and sides. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.*
 
The remainder of the recipe tells how to make the ratatouille filling (which is added, cooked, to the already baked tart shells, with no further baking needed). I'll let you find your own version of ratatouille. Mine, that day, consisted of a leftover mixture of red and yellow pepper that I had sauteed with onion and garlic. For my tart filling, I cooked an additional half an onion in olive oil, then added a thinly sliced zucchini and my last tomato, chopped, and I let these cook for six or so minutes, at which point I chopped and stirred in the leftover pepper mixture. A quick trip to the back yard gave me some basil and parsley to throw in to the mix. When the tart shells were done I removed them from the pans and filled them with my eggplant-free ratatouille. The nutty, slightly crunchy, very tender tart shells were delicious.
____
*The tart shells are pretty fragile, so if appearance is important to you, it might be useful to allow for breakage by making a few extra. Any broken tart shells can be crumbled and saved to sprinkle on top of a gratin some day, or to add to your breakfast granola.
 
 

Friday, August 12, 2016

My preliminary review of Ontario craft ciders....

Ontario Craft Ciders are far and away better than the "big boys" of Canada or of other countries (e.g., UK, SA, USA). They are at least equal to Quebec, but less definitive than Normandy/Brittany (e.g., Le Pere Jules). Above all, though, avoid flavoured ciders. Read the label to make sure that they are indeed 100% made from pears (perry), raspberry, et al.
 
-Spirit Tree Estate Cidery, Spirit Tree Draught Cider, Caledon: +413153, $3.20: 6.0% ABV. Natural draught style, not pasteurized (they use a UV glass panel to destroy pathogens, no heat). Some animal (e.g., saddles) tones usually found in wine from hotter climates, may be a factor of yeast. Gives the cider texture and character. My yum-yum Ontario fave. Quality/Price rating is 92+ points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-Brickworks Ciderhouse, Small Batch: 1904 [white can], Toronto, +394015, $3.15 LCBO: 4.7% ABV. Light carbonation, aromas of fresh heritage orchard cider apples from Georgian Bay and Niagara, all GMO free. Citric finish plus spices suggest apple pies. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-Brickworks Ciderhouse: Queen Street 501 [red can, seasonal], +413807, $3 LCBO: 5% ABV, similar to the 1904 but more off-dry in character. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-Southern Cliff Brands, Pommies Cider Co., Pommies Farmhouse Cider, Caledon, +418582, $3.10 LCBO: 6.0% ABV. Baked apples dominate and the effervescence is high. Some wood tones: did they use a wooden hand press? They also make Pommies Cider, +453118, same price at LCBO. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-Coffin Ridge Boutique Winery, Forbidden Wicked Artisanal Cider, Annan: +374496, $3 LCBO: 6.5% ABV. Cold pressed and filtered, pale colour, fresh apple flavours, lemon finish. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-Thornbury Village Cidery Inc., Thornbury Premium Apple Cider, Thornbury, +333583, $3 LCBO: 5.3% ABV. A bit green and lean with some grass orchard fruit notes among the fresh apple tones. Finishes balanced and useful for patios and parties. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
-Small Talk Vineyards, Shiny Apple Cider, Niagara-on-the-Lake, +407668, $3.25: 7.0% ABV. Hot tones from the higher alcohol, but definitely apples, could double as a medium-value sparkling grape wine with its apple-lemon complexity. Producer says made from "shiny" Ontario apples. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Tuesday, August 9, 2016

The Event: 25th Anniversary Celebration for Conundrum Wines, celebrated by the wine media and the Wagner Family of Wines

The Date and Time: Tuesday, July 26, 2016   2 Pm – 5 PM
The Event: 25th Anniversary Celebration for Conundrum Wines, celebrated by the wine media and the Wagner Family of Wines
The Venue: Milestones Patio, Yonge and Dundas
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines but one are (or will be) at Vintages.
The Quote/Background: it was a great opportunity to taste some stunning California wines from Conundrum, Mer Soleil, Emmolo, and Caymus.
The Wines:
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Conundrum White 2014, +694653 $24.95 Vintages Essential
-Mer Soleil Reserve Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2013, +378661 $34.95 Vintages California Walkabout Sept 22
-Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, +711663, $175.95 (V2013 Vintages release Nov 26 2016)
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Conundrum Rose 2015, $24.95 (available later, TBD)
-Mer Soleil Silver  Chardonnay 2014, +220343 Vintages $29.95
-Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc 2014, +960165, $27.95 Vintages California Walkabout Sept 22
-Emmolo Merlot 2013, +96024,  $69.95 Vintages
-Caymus Zinfandel 2013 $59.95 (V2014 Vintages release Fall 2016)
-Caymus Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 $103.95 (V2014 Vintages release Nov 26 2016)
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Conundrum Red 2013, +294298 $24.95 Vintages Essential
 
The Food: we walked around with fried calamari, prime rib sliders, lettuce stuffed tacos, fish tacos, Asian Thai chicken bites, mostly from Cathryn our waitress.
The Downside: it was a blazing hot day, the entire patio was exposed to the naked sun except for one umbrella which was coveted. For serious tasting, I brought some glasses inside.
The Upside: pretty good food to match the wines.
The Contact Person: carrie.may@andrewpeller.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 86.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, August 3, 2016

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for August 6, 2016.

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for  August 6, 2016.
=======================================================================
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.
 
This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com
 
** My wine bargain of the month:  Cathedral Cellar Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2010 WO Western Cape South Africa, +462762, $16.95. MVC/QPR – 92 points **
 
20 under $20
=========
W- Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2015 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +80234, $16.95, 9.5% ABV,        MVC/QPR:  89
R-Best's Bin No. 1 Shiraz 2013 Great Western Victoria, +222323, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90
W-Thelema Mountain Vineyards Sutherland Chardonnay 2012 WO Elgin South Africa, +146423, $15.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91
R-Chateau Tour de Sarrail 2010 Bordeaux, +448829, $19.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-B & V Marchesseau Vignoble des Robinieres L'Alouette Bourgueil 2014,  +450494, $19.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir Les Aspres Grenache/Mourvedre/Syrah 2013 Cotes du Roussillon, +413245, $18.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Tenuta Ulisse Unico Pecorino 2014 IGP Terre di Chieti Abruzzo, +249128, $19.95, 13% ABV,
MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Casa Santos Lima Confidencial Reserva 2012 Vinho Regional Lisboa, +452789, $14.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89,
R-Bod. Classica Hacienda Lopez de Haro Reserva 2009 Rioja, +357335, $17.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.
W-Megalomaniac Narcissist Riesling 2014 Edra's Vineyard VQA Niagara, +67587, $17.95, 11.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Fielding Red Conception 2013 VQA Niagara, +189183, $18.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.
W-Cline Viognier 2014 North Coast, +128421, $18.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Troupis Moschofilero 2015 PDO Mantinia Greece, +463422, $16.95, 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Tsantali Naoussa Reserve 2011 Greece, +209627, $15.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Columbia Crest H3 Merlot 2013 Horse Heaven Hills Columbia Valley, +209874, $19.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Graffigna Grand Reserve Malbec 2012 San Juan Argentina, +162149, $17.95, 14.5ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Casas Del Bosque Reserva Pinot Noir 2014 Casablanca Valley, +995068, $15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Mitolo The Nessus Shiraz 2013 McLaren Vale, +457291, $16.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +606848, $18.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88
R-Pietra Pura Mandu Primitivo di Manduria 2013, +216457, $16.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Gordo Tinto 2012 Yecla, +432435, $18.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
 
 
 
20 over $20
W-Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2013 VQA Four Mile Creek Niagara, +586347, $24.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Sanford Chardonnay 2012 Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara County, +956003, $30.95, 14.4% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.
R-Torres Cos Perpetual 2013 Priorat Spain, +265710, $49.95, 15% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Marimar Estate Acero Chardonnay 2014 Don Miguel Vineyard Russian River Valley Sonoma County, +383943, $34.95, 13.8% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Mer Soleil Silver Unoaked Chardonnay 2014 Monterey County, +220343, $29.95,  MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Alpha Estate Turtles Vineyard Syrah 2011 Florina Greece, +115295, $21.95, 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Davis Bynum Jane's Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 Russian River Valley Sonoma County, +458893, $39.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Sonoma County, +226944, $24.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.
R-Chateau La Fleur Pourret 2009 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, +455667, $38.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Estate Papaioannou Single Vineyard Agiorgitiko 2010, +47944, $20.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 92
R-J & J Kekfrankos 2011 Eger Hungary, +446591, $24.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR:88.
R-Umberto Fiore Barolo 2012, +454470, $32.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2008, +318352, $46.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Villa Cerna Riserva Chianti Classico 2012, +349407, $28.95, 13.5%ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Bod. Balbas Ardal Reserva 2006 Ribera del Duero, +167700, $21.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.
R-Luis Canas Reserva 2010 Rioja, +334094, $26.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Damilano Lecinquevigne Barolo 2011, +454488, $46.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.
Champagne – Gardet Cuvee Saiunt Flavy Brut Tradition, +924654, $42.95,  MVC/QPR: 90.
W-Buena Vista Chardonnay 2014 Sonoma County, +396440, $24.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 87.
R-Josef Chromy Pepik Pinot Noir 2014 Tasmania, +162990, $21.95, 13% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! (The Curious Bartender's Gin Palace, 2016)

THE CURIOUS BARTENDER'S GIN PALACE (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2016, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-701-0, $21.95 USD hardbound) is by Tristan Stephenson, best-selling author of the Curious Bartender series of drinks books (The Artistry and Alchemy of Creating the Perfect Cocktail;  An Odyssey of Malt, Bourbon & Rye Whiskies). It is a generous book for the price, with detailed history of the origins and time-lines of gin throughout the world, with great illustrations. Of course he continues with how gin is made, and then proceeds to describe the great gin companies and their formulas (half the book). Superb tasting notes. So for England and Scotland we have Adnam's, Hendrick's, Gordon's, Beefeater, Tanqueray, Bombay Sapphire – and many more that don't turn up (usually) in Ontario. There are also listings for other countries and regions, such as Europe. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: gin lovers, liquor historians.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the classics – gin fizz, tonic water syrup, French 75, Negroni, sloe gin, gimlet, martini, etc.
The downside to this book: there are only a few micro-descriptions of other gin distilleries, none for Canada (candidates: Ungava, Victoria's).
The upside to this book: a good collection of historical notes.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, July 30, 2016

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 
...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
 
3.FROM JUNK FOOD TO JOY FOOD (Hay House, 2016, 262 pages, ISBN 978-1-4019-5037-8, $24.99 USD hardbound) is by Joy Bauer, nutrition and health expert for the TODAY show (NBC, USA), and host of the "Joy Fit Club" which celebrates people for have lost 100 pounds or more. This current book, which deals with all manner of popular food re-invented for a healthier lifestyle, is drawn from her TV show of the same name. Her book covers all the courses and mealtimes, from breakfasts through appetizers, soups, salads, suppers, pastas, pizza, desserts, and beverages. For each food (e.g., eggs Benedict) she describes the original (here, 1000 calories) and her healthy knock-off (here, 377 calories, along with nutritional data). She replaces pancakes that one would find in a diner with "protein pancakes" at a third of the calories. And the same with silver dollar pancakes. "Spaghetti and meatballs" becomes zucchini linguine with meatballs. Good stuff all round, usually resulting in calorie reductions of half to 2/3. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of conversion equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
4.DIVA Q'S BARBEQUE (Appetite by Random House, 2016, 278 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-752982-4, $24.95 CAD softbound) is by Danielle Bennett, host of BBQ Crawl (as Diva Q), and highly ranked as a competitive BBQ expert. There are some impressive log rollers, but what can really sell the book is the fact that there are not all that many female BBQ pit masters. It has always seemed to be a guy's game. Here she's got 195 recipes for BBQ for family and entertaining, covering a full range from basics through rubs, sauces, spices, apps, pork-beef-poultry-fish, salads and breads. There is even a section on sweets, such as "s'more better dip" for toasting. It is a very entertaining package with her saucy style. Her best chapter is the "six recipes you need to know" (basic brine, smoked garlic, flavoured butters, etc.). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric conversion equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
5.PROJECT SMOKE (Workman, 2016, 293 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-8186-6, $22.95 USD softbound) is by Steven Raichlen, a long time host of popular PBS grill and BBQ shows. His BBQ books have won multiple awards. He's been hosting/writing BBQ for a couple of decades now (29 books!). This is a step-by-step guide to mastering the craft of smoking. He's got 100 recipes, covering not only brisket-ribs-belly-salmon-turkey but also smoking sides. There's the important equipment chapter, choosing hardwoods, and making sure that you get the most out of things. His seven step approach begins with choosing a smoker, through to knowing when the food is done. His pragmatic approach includes boosting smoke flavours without using a smoker: just add bacon, or chipotle, ham, smoked paprika, smoked cheese, or lapsang souchon. He advocates smoking such items as butter, ricotta, salt, sugar, mayo, olive oil, capers, lemons, bologna – even ice!. It is a versatile book...full of tips and advice on every page. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents, unfortunately. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
 
6.AROUND THE FIRE (Ted Speed Press, 2016, 262 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-752-9, $35 USD hardbound) is by Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quinonez Denton, both of Ox restaurant in Portland. The focusing food writer is Stacy Adimando. The book is a collection of diverse grilling preps from the restaurant, as modified for home use and feasting. Seasonal produce is the core, as well as Argentine fire cooking. There is an emphasis on the unusual, such as grilled skirt steaks or lamb shoulder chops. The sections of the book are arranged by apps, mains, salads, sides, and sweets with drinks. There are some hot cocktails: calimocho, la yapa, ox blood, and the whey of the gun among others. Grilled veggies include such as sweet onion with buttered beets, butternut squash with za'atar and charred green onion yogurt, blistered snap peas, and baby bok choy with Ecuadorian peanut sauce. Excellent photography and good stories about their restaurant Ox. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
7.CHURRASCO (Gibbs Smith, 2016, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-4068-4, $30 USD hardbound) is by Evandro Caregnato, culinary director of Texas de Brazil, which began in Addison Texas in 1998. It's all about grilling the Brazilian way, with modifications for the home. There's a wonderful description here of the grilling tradition in Brazil and the concept of a churrascaria. Most of the meats are on skewers, which makes it hard to do at home without the proper equipment and space. So it is pretty well boneless for maximum impact. Charcoal is always used, unlike the Argentine and Uruguayan wood. There is a lot of material on the various meat cuts and preparing the skewer, collated by animal. Marinades are prominent too. There are also preps dealing with sides such as fried polenta stuffed with cheese, seasoned cassava flour, arroz carreteiro, and even lobster bisque or cream of jalapeno soup. The delightful Brazilian cheese bread (pao de queijo) is covered, as well as the Brazilian caipirinha  national drink. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements for the most part, but there are also tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
8.WEBER'S NEW AMERICAN BARBECUE (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-71527-1, $24.99 USD softbound) is by Jamie Purviance, Weber's master griller. He has written several grilling books for the Weber banner. This one is a modern spin on the classics, with international dishes Americanized. He's got tomato-bacon jam, grilled salmon BLTs, lemon-brined bacon, a whole slew of beef dishes and bean plates, plus a multitude of marinades and sauces. Some of the recipes come from fellow competitors. And as always with his books, the recipe instructions are quite detailed.  There's a whole section on rubs (all 17 of them) plus guides to grilling pork, lamb, beef, poultry, seafood. While the book is useful, it would help if the reader had a Weber BBQ of some sorts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
9.SMOKING MEAT (DK Books, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-4934-4, $19.95 USD softbound) is by Will Fleischman, a brand ambassador for Black Iron BBQ Pits. He's hosted many TV shows. His book is a basic, well-illustrated tome in the DK tradition guide to tools, techniques, cuts, with of course recipes. This is what you'll need to know for smoking (not necessarily BBQ: some people confuse the two). Personally, I love smoked meat but I am not so fond of BBQ. Wood is of the essence here, and the chapters cover beef, lamb, pork, poultry, game, and seafood, with extras comprising smoked mushroom caps, smoked asparagus, even smoked salsa verde and habanero hot sauce. Extremely goof detail with charts on cooking and smoking times and temperatures. Consider jerk-rubbed chicken wings, chicken thighs with white sauce, salmon with sweet glaze, smoked lobster tail, shrimp skewers, and more. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
10.LEGENDS OF TEXAS BARBECUE COOKBOOK (Chronicle Books, 2002, 2016, 205 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-3998-2, $22.95 USD softbound) is by Robb Walsh, a three-time winner of the Beard Journalism Award and co-owner of El Real Tex-Mex Cafe in Houston. This book was originally published in 2002 but has now been revised and updated – a lot has changed since that time. There are 32 new recipes here. Topics include evolution of Texas pits, trophy winners, old German-style meat markets, the importance of East Texas, the rise of BBQ as a "business", rib joints, and regional specialties. The emphasis of course is on smoking and BBQing beef. There are lots and lots of personality profiles here, with pix and some archival photos. These are recipes and recollections from the pit masters of the past and present. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
11.CHEF RONALDO'S SABORES DE CUBA (American Diabetes Association, 2016, 260 pages, ISBN 978-1-58040-613-0, $18.95 USD softbound) is by Ronaldo Linares, executive chef of Martino's Cuban restaurant in New Jersey. He's a specialist in diabetic cooking, and has here adapted many Cuban preps for diabetes-friendly traditional and nuevo cubano cuisine. The book is bilingual, Spanish and English, with the recipes facing each other on the printed pages. There are about 100 of them, from the basic Cubano sandwich to mojo marinated pork tenderloin, roasted sweet plantains, and seared scallops. And of course indexed in both languages. All courses and types of dishes are covered, savoury and sweet. A good looking book. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
12.SPRING; the cookbook (Quadrille, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-754-1, $24.95 USD hardbound) is by Skye Gyngell, owner of Spring Restaurant in London UK. It has preps and original recipes from her place, as well as series of profiles on its creation. She had previously won a Guild of Food Writers Cookery Book of the Year in 2007 for her "A Year in My Kitchen". Her dining establishment celebrates the Spring season, for the most part as many of the dishes can be used year round. Of course there is asparagus (with crème fraiche), eggs and anchovies with radishes, carpaccio of wild salmon, crab with crème fraiche and roe, nettle risotto, and many other dishes using spring veggies and spring lamb. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
13.CREOLE KITCHEN (Weldon Owen, 2015, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-68188-052-5, $35 USD hardbound) is by Vanessa Bolosier, founder of Carib Gourmet which specializes in Caribbean food and sweets in the UK. She comes from French-speaking islands of the Caribbean. Her creole kitchen is a food melange from Haiti, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Domenica, French Guiana and Saint Lucia. In this book you will find the melting pot of cultures, beginning with homemade food, street food, local restaurant food, and upscale food for entertaining. She has quite extensive notes on Creole food in particular, with its emphasis on veggies, fruits, and seafood of the region, along with pork. The key elements of creole food include accras (small fritters), boiled racines (roots), bokits (deep fried bread), dombres (dumplings), and rums. Expect avocado feroce, lobster fricassee, breadfruit and pork parmentier, green papaya gratin, and sauce chien. There are about 100 recipes in all. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
14.KEVIN BELTON'S BIG FLAVORS OF NEW ORLEANS (Gibbs Smith, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-4157-5, $24.99 USD hardcovers) is by Kevin Belton, who also hosts a PBS cooking series on New Orleans food. He has been assisted by Rhonda K. Findley, co-author of several News Orleans food books. It nicely rounds out Creole cooking above the Caribbean (see previous review) with its gumbos, crab and corn bisque, shrimp etouffee, Louisiana pecan praline, crab cakes, "jazz brunches", roux and gumbo. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
15.RUSH HOUR MEALS (Whitecap, 2016, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-303-8, $24.95 CAD softbound) is by Rose Reisman, who has written 19 health-focused cookbooks while also appearing in both print and broadcast, and running a "healthy" catering company. Here she presents recipes for busy families: nutritional ones that are easy and fast to make.  Like many similar books, it can all be done in 30 minutes or less. She's got mac and cheese won ton cups, black bean burgers, turkey chili with butternut squash, and miniature quiches. There are 115 preps here, arranged by course from apps to desserts, with some all-day breakfasts for the really harried. Typical are quinoa bites, chicken with roasted cherry tomatoes and asiago, Mexican chicken lasagna, and baked pottao parmesan chips. Each prep comes with some logos such as "gluten-free" or "vegetarian", nutrition tips, advice for kids, and nutritional data. Prep times and cook times are clearly indicated. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. But points off for the incredibly teeny tiny index type font (one point in size?), virtually unreadable by anybody over the age of 35. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
16.HOT THAI KIYCHEN (Appetite by Random House, 2016, 246 pages, ISBN 978-0-449-01705-0, $24.95 CAD softbound) is by Pailin Chongchitnant, who started her YouTube channel while a chef in the Bay Area and is now a co-host on Gusto TV. Her book is full and comprhensive, fleshing out many moments from the YouTube show of the same name. It's a basic Thai book but it is also well-priced. There's a lot of cultural and travel data and photos here, but there is also the cooking basics of Thai curries, soups, salads, stir-fries, sauces and dips, plus vegetarian and vegan versions of dishes. She's got a small chapter on desserts as well. A good entry-level book for the curious, and lots of close-ups of the plated food. Part one on the techniques covers a hundred pages before the recipes even begin. Not only does she have side-notes explaining the breakdown and the rationale behind the food's "coming together", but she has provided QR codes for her YouTube videos so you can see an actual demo of what she is doing. Unfortunately, preparations have their ingredients listed only in avoirdupois measurements, and there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
17.AMERICA'S BEST BREAKFASTS (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-553-44721-7, $23 USD softbound) is by Lee Brian Schrager and Adeena Sussman. He's the founder of the Food Network South Beach and New York City Wine & Food Festivals, and cookbook author. She's a cookbook writer who also collaborated with Schrager on the "Fried and True" cookbook. These are fave local recipes from US coast to coast, essentially from diners and places open really early in the day. It's arranged by region, from the West Coast to the Midwest, to the South, and then to the Northeast. There is even a short chapter on Bloody Marys. So we get "shrimp and grits" from Charleston's Hominy Grill, croque monsieurs from Tartine in San Francisco, kimchi pancakes from the Sunshine Tavern in Portland, Filipino steak from Uncle Mike's in Chicago, and cannoli French toast from the Cafe Lift in Philadelphia – about 100 dishes from 25 cities, all sourced with some pix and profiles of the restos. Yummy. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
18.MEXICAN TODAY (Houghton Mifflin, 2016, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-55724-6, $30 USD hardbound) is Pati Jinich, resident chef of the Mexican Cultural Institute in Washington DC. She's written other cookbooks on Mexican food. The subtitle says "new and rediscovered recipes for contemporary kitchens", but of course, there are plenty of basics and classics too. The arrangement is standard, from soups, through salads, tortas, guacamoles, salsas, adobos, tacos, tostadas, enchiladas, guisados, one dish meals, sides, and desserts followed by beverages. So there are homey dishes such as bacon and lentil soup with plantains or green pozole with zucchini, tortas with chicken and refried beans and plantains, potato and chorizo tortas, open-faced Mexican gravlax sandwiches, crabmeat enchiladas with peas and a buttermilk sauce, and chicken or poultry pibil. It is a no-nonsense book with a good index (large type). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
 
19.DRINK LIKE A MAN (Chronicle Books, 2016, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-3270-9, $22.95 USD hardbound) is from Esquire magazine. It is touted as "the only cocktail guide anyone really needs", but then they all say that – or some version of that subtitle. There's a whole bunch of people involved, mostly from the magazine, but also a few who were former employees. It is a guy book in that only the essentials are covered: the basic implements, garnishes, bar setups, and the seven cocktail formulas, and even (to cover themselves) "a few seemingly fussy things that are actually worth it". The macho book goes on to present the 14 Classics of Old Fashioned, Manhattan, Martini, Negroni, etc., followed by The Second Round of Slightly Less Essential Cocktails (Bloody Mary, Brandy Alexander, Zombie, et al), and The Third Round of The Odd Inventive (Stinger, Americano,  Sloe Gin) and then Punches and some quick guy foods such as potato chips with caviar, alomds and rosemary, deviled eggs, jalapenos wrapped in bacon, etc. My thoughts: real guys only need the first fifty pages here. Preparations have their ingredients listed in some metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. One nice thing: the distinctive typeface of Esquire has been retained. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
20.COUNTRY COOKING FROM A REDNECK KITCHEN (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-553-44845-0 $22 USD softbound) is by Francine Bryson, who has won over 200 local and national baking competitions and has appeared on The American Baking Competition (CBS). I'm not quite sure if the term "redneck" will help sell the book, but she has used it before for her baking book. Here are 125 examples of cooking from the Southern states, although the redneck empire is larger than that. As she says, there are preps for chicken dinners, savoury pies, Sunday suppers, make-and-take casseroles, dips, BBQ, baked goods and holiday sweets. There's a fair number of canned goods and prepared foods  to speed up the process (tinned soups, canned small white potatoes, evaporated milk, pimentos, lemon cake mix, and the like). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 82.
 
 
 
21.SHORT ORDER DAD (Skyhorse Publishing, 2016, 252 pages, ISBN 978-1-63450-980-0, $17.99 USD softbound) is by Robert Rosenthal, professional chef, food writer and humourist, and owner of Short Order Dad videos. He's an inspiration to all dad everywhere in his no-nonsense approach to 100 or so crowd-pleasing recipes in this book. It is also a handbook of basic techniques to employ with simple recipes that have the most taste with the fewest ingredients and the least effort. Everything here, of course, has been family-tested and could also be used for entertaining. Apps to desserts are covered, and there is a heavy splash of the American southwest in spicing and cuisine: chorizo beef burger, pork ribs mole style, seared duck breasts over greens, spicy green beans. Multiple log rollers include Floyd Cardoz and Colman Andrews. And there is not one single pix of the author, unlike many similar books by women cooks. Large type font, all caps for list of ingredients, and a decent sized index complete the picture. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
22.SIROCCO (Appetite by Random House, 2016, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-753033-2, $39.95 CAD hardbound) is by Sabrina Ghayour, host of Sabrina's Kitchen supper club in London UK and free lance writer. The cook is co-published with Mitchell Beazley in the UK. She had earlier written Persiana; here, she returns to the well with more Middle East cookery themes. As before, she emphasizes the pantry as the key to cooking from scratch: these are year round staples, waiting for stews, seasonal veggie delights, salads, and so forth. She's got about a dozen major spices/herbs/oils or combos. Her philosophy is that you can take these condiments and make Middle East versions of many other foods. Her range continues to be all-inclusive, with breakfasts, apps through desserts, and beverages/drinks. Try za'atar and goat cheese puffs, spicy turkey lettuce wraps, or spice-roasted duck. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
23.FIVE (Ebury Press, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-00-9195966-1 $31.99 CAD softbound) is by Rachel de Thample, who has cooked in the kitchens of Marco Pierre White, Blumenthal, and Gordon. She's currently a food editor, and she has authored "Less Meat, More Veg" for the UK market. Here she's got 150 preps for over 100 fruits and veggies. She's listed them all, with their suggested daily portion, such as 1 pear, 5 florets of cauliflower, 7 cherry tomatoes, etc. – just eat any five portions every day and use her recipes and listed meal plans. Some of the dishes are even useful for detox (no wheat, sugar, dairy), while others could also be vegan. There is some meat, for de Thample believes in balance. Try roast beet with cardamom yogurt, olive raisin tapenade with fennel and orange, roast lemon asparagus with pesto yogurt, or saucy miso spinach with toasted sesame. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
24.HOME COOKED (Ten Speed Press, 2016, 296 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-840-3, $35 USD hardbound) is by Anya Fernald (co-founder and CEO of California's Belcampo Meat Co.; she's also launched Slow Food Nation in the USA and has been an Iron Chef judge since 2009. Food writer Jessica Battilana is the focusing writer. There's heavy duty log rolling from Mario Batali and Harold McGee. It is a basic home cooking book, with sauces, meaty dishes, charred veggies – all in the name of flavours to get you up and going. Its roots can be found in the "cucina povera" of Italian frugal peasants: making
use of every part of food (preservation of the bounty, salt curing, broths, braises. The range is from apps to mains of pasta/risotto, veggies, fish and meat, and then desserts.  It is also part memoir. There's an emphasis on the off-cuts of meat (she is, after all, head of a meat company), so there is also sections on rendered pork and beef fats, and cultured butter and buttermilk. In addition to plated foods, there are many pictures of of her life. This is really an Italian cookbook. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
25.MY SIMPLE ITALIAN (Ebury Press, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-00-9192901-5 $49.95 CAD hardbound) is by Theo Randall of the InterContinental; it has consistently been voted one of the best Italian restaurants in Britain. Here, with an endorsement from Jamie Oliver, Randall proposes about 100 preps for the home, in the usual range from small plates through soups, salads, pastas, risottos, large plates, mains, feats, sides and desserts. There is an index at the front based on timings (under 20 minutes, 20-25 minutes, 30-35, 40-45, 50-55, over an hour), but it all really depends on how swift you are, if you have anybody helping as a sous-chef and if your mise en place is indeed "in place". There's a huge pantry list, which is a help. Worth a look. Preparations have some of their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
26.FLAVORS OF SICILY (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-734-8, $24.95 USD hardbound) is by Ursula Ferrigno, consultant chef to Caffe Nero chain, has been on BBC, and runs classes for Sur La Table stores. She's written more than 18 cookbooks, mainly on Italian and Mediterranean themes. Here she does Sicilian cuisine, which is a great crossroads melting pot mixture of Greeks/Romans/Arabs/Normans/Spaniards. Typical food include tomatoes, olive oil, sheep's milk, pistachios, olives, fennel, citrus fruits. Classics include blood orange and red onion salads, olive relish, fava bean soup, spring lamb, fried chickpeas with herbs, panelle [socca], braised lemon chicken. Preparations have their ingredients listed in some metric with more avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
27.THE ELEMENTS OF PIZZA (Ten Speed Press, 2016, 250 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-838-0, $30 USD hardbound) is by Ken Forkish, owner of three bakery/restaurant/taverns in Portland OR and winner of a Beard and IACP award for his previous book, "Flour Water Salt Yeast". Now, the first rule of pizza is NEVER to eat it with a fork. But does this rule apply to someone named Forkish? Probably not: he's in your corner with this charming book, based on what his customers want. He's got some heavy-duty log rolling via Molly Wizenberg, Nathan Myhrvold, and some restaurant owners. There are more than a dozen pizza dough recipes for a variety of occasions (mostly related to the time element of bigas and quick doughs). He's got one gluten-free, which uses whatever the best commercial flour is available on the market. But he does warn here that the dough would be a bit cakey. The first 150 pages are devoted to techniques and a mini-history (illustrated) of pizza. It is all quite thorough and meant for the dedicated pizza-lover (or even a pizza shop owner looking for new experiences). The last 100 are for sauces and variations. As a baker, he advocates scaling which would make the dough more exact. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric with some avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
28.KOREAN FOOD MADE SIMPLE (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-66330-5, $30 USD hardbound) is by Judy Joo, who has a Cooking Channel show of the same name. She opened Jinjuu in London UK in 2014.
 
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating:
 
 
29.KOREATOWN; a cookbook (Clarkson Potter, 2016, 272 pages, ISBN 978-0-8041-8613-1, $30 USD hardbound) is by Deuki Hong, chef of Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong in Manhattan. Hius co-author is Matt Rodbard, magazine food writer who also crafted "Korean Restaurant Guide: New York City". Log rollers include Anthony Bourdain and Edward Lee. There are 90 preps here, collected from other chefs – along with their stories and experiences, lots of photography, and tips on how to handle "Korean" food. It's a restaurant book with details on how to cook it at home (minus the exact home photo presentation). There are collections of Korean produce, small plates and side dishes, and a glossary at the back inside cover. Good layout and indexing, with dishes sourced and titling in Korean and English. Typical are crunchy sesame bean sprouts, mixed rice bowl, marinated short ribs,  Koreatown fried chicken, anchovy and peanut bar snack. A good mix of street-food-truck dishes and home preps. Sean Brock contributes a cornmeal and shrimp pajeon, Edward Lee does a red cabbage bacon kimchi, and Hugh Acheson does a pork belly. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
30.KOREAN FOOD MADE SIMPLE (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-66330-5, $30 USD hardbound) is by Judy Joo, host of a show with the same title as her book on the Cooking Channel. It comes with log rolling by Bobby Flay and Curtis Stone among others. 130 preps are here are more in number than the Hong book above, and more geared to home use (and maybe even home easy). It is arranged by category: small bites and kimchi, salads, veggies, rice and noodles, soups and stews, seafood, chicken, meats, sauces, breads, desserts, and drinks. Try potato pancakes with Asian pear compote (gamjajeon), steak tartare (yukhwe), noodles with rice cakes and fish cakes (ra-bokki), or oxtail soup (gori gomtang). Not as adventuresome as Hong's book, but better for the home cook. Actually, the two books complement each other with minimal duplication. Buy them both! Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
31.RUHLMAN'S HOW TO SAUTE: foolproof techniques and recipes for the home cook (Little, Brown, 2016, 178 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-25415-1, $20 USD hardbound) is by the bestselling and James Bear Award-winning chef-author of many culinary books. This is the latest in his series of cooking techniques (the other two were Roast and Braise). There are dozens of insightful tips, step-by-step photos of techniques, and basic recipes, with some more complicated ones too. It is a good reference book to put alongside the other two. Just about everything can be sauteed, just as it can be roasted and/or braised. Here it is a matter of heat, oil used, and timing: vegetable oil for high heat, olive oil for medium-high heat, and clarified butter for lower temperatures. Plus regular butter to finish off a dish. You can read all about it here. He covers the basics in 10 pages, followed by 150 pages of recipes (start with chicken fried steak) and then some more on saute larders, equipment and tools. The best wine to go with sauteed food is actually Meursault (look it up). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
 
32.COOKING SOLO (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 226 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-17648-5, $19.99 USD softbound) is by Klancy Miller, a pastry chef who has done some appearances on the Cooking Channel and the Food Network. This is, as the subtitle says, "the joy of cooking for yourself". It is tough because it requires dedication since it is so easy to just take a series of snacks or cold foods. There are 100 dishes here, mostly easy and under 30 minutes prep time. The hardest part is letting go of leftovers or what could be potential leftovers. She says: "Preparing a meal for yourself is a special exercise, an unpressured act of creativity, self-care, and validation." Small plates anyone? That's what is in abundance on just about every menu in town. So these can also be apps for two or more people to share at home. Good stuff, lovingly photographed. Try quinoa quick bread with carrots, or gluten-free chocolate chip cake, perhaps hot pink hummus (roasted beet spread). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
33.GRILLED CHEESE KITCHEN (Chronicle Books, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-4459-7, $19.95 hardbound) is by Heidi Gibson with Nate Pollak. They are husband and wife and own the American Grilled Cheese Kitchen restaurants in San Francisco. She has won seven times in the Grilled Cheese Invitational, more than anyone else. The book's subtitle says it all: "bread and cheese and everything in between". And it is perfect for singles, along with any other kind of sandwich, Her book is arranged by course, beginning with breakfast, and then moving through lunch/dinner. Along the way she's got the answers to soup, mac 'n' cheese (but the mac 'n' cheese grilled cheese sandwich is in a different chapter), pickles-spreads-sides. There's a glossary and sources list. What makes great grilled cheese sammies? Use one of the 15 major types of breads, one or more of the great 30 melting cheeses, and a variety of add nos of your choosing for meats and greens. My faves: mushroom-Gruyere grilled cheese, breakfast piglet grilled cheese, and Indian leftovers grilled cheese. Almost 40 sandwiches plus variations and extras. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, July 27, 2016

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 
...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
15.APPETIZERS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-717-1, $19.95 USD hardbound) is a publisher's book compiled by Julia Charles from contributions of RPS authors (mostly Miranda Ballard, Jenny Linford and Vicky Jones among the 14 cited). The 70 preps here follow on the 100 in Milli Taylor's Party Perfect Bites (RPS, 2014). Appetizers and small bites are the perfect food these days, combining grazing with entertaining. All of them are so yummy at buffets, small plates, shared plates, pass-around platters, and just as leftovers the next day. Most are from Asiatic countries and the Mediterranean Basin. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with comparable metric. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
 
 
16.BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS NEW COOKBOOK. 16th edition. (Meredith, 2016, 664 loose leaf pages, ISBN 978-0-544-371446-5, $21.99 USD, spiral ring binder) is from the
magazine of the same name. The 15th edition was published in 2012. It is important to remember: this is a classic that keeps getting better, for the basic home cook. Now in this edition of more than 1400 preps are 1300 recipes with 1200 photos (800 new) and 400 photos of techniques. And there is more complete nutritional data for each dish. Features include a chapter on "Cook's Secrets", "8 to Try" (flavour changes to perk up simple recipes), and a new chapter on holiday faves. Recipes have been laid out in a more eye appealing fashion, and there is advice on how to customize basic recipes. At the end there is a list of emergency substitutions, refrigerator and freezer storage notes, cooking at high altitudes, and metric conversion charts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
17.101 VEGETARIAN GRILL & BBQ RECIPES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-722-5, 144 pages, $19.95 USD hardbound) is another publisher's recipe book, compiled by Alice Sambrook. There are contributions from 24 food writers in the RPS stable, with the largest numbers coming from Ghillie Basan, Louise Pickford, and Miranda Ballard. The concentration here is on veggies for vegans and vegetarians. Organized by topic (small bites, skewers, burgers, hot sides, salads, salsas and sweets), it is a good guide to a complete meatless BBQ. It is a niche book, but a much needed one to claim a piece of the BBQ turf for those who don't eat meat and/or dairy. It's terrific for the vegetarian lifestyle. There's 101 recipes here: grilled halloumi and vegetable stack, sesame sweet potato packets, and a bunch of grilled corn dishes (among the total). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
18.PETA'S VEGAN COLLEGE COOKBOOK (Sourcebooks, 2016, 326 pages, ISBN 978-1-4926-3554-3, $15.99 US paper covers) is by PETA with Martha Holmberg and Starza Kolman. This edition is based on an earlier book published in 2009 by Sourcebooks. So, in general, it has been updated, revised and is now reissued with new material. It's a solid, basic vegan book with 275 easy and inexpensive recipes "to keep you vegan at school". Most vegans need to cook on their own because it is extremely difficult to find vegan food in restaurants, and when they do find it (outside of special vegan places), it is expensive. And if they are college students, then they also have no real time to mess with cooking. The book is a boon: everything here is flavourful. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. And unfortunately the index is in the smallest possible typeface. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
19.EAT DRINK PALEO COOKBOOK (Chronicle Books, 2016, 220 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-5223-3, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Irena Macri; the material is derived largely from her blog Eat Drink Paleo. It was originally published in 2013 by Penguin Random House Australia, and this is its North American release. It is 110 recipes without gluten, grains, legumes, artificial ingredients or processed sugar. But Macri subscribes to an 80/20 rule: 20% of her intake will be butter, cheese, grains, ice cream and beer. Sort of like keeping kosher at home (in my case I'm an omnivore, but I keep "organic" at home and eat widely in restaurants and at parties. There's smoked chicken slaw, chai banana porridge, chili-chocolate mousse, and celery root remoulade with rare roast beef rolls. She concludes with a reference list of sources and further reading. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
20.MANLY FOOD (Quadrille, 2013, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-731-2, $50 CAD hardbound) is by  Simon Cave (as in Cave Manly?) – there is no real info about him in the book, which was originally published in the UK in 2013 but here gets its first North American appearance. 200 preps are within this book, hyped as "The ultimate cookbook for men who love hearty, masculine food". Primer material includes a butchery guide, tips on building a BBQ, and sharpening knives. The eighteen chapters include "chili & spice", "TV dinners", "fast food", "pure meat", and "manly desserts". Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
21.FRIED CHICKEN & FRIENDS (Thunder Bay Press, 2016, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-62686-588-4, $24.99 USD hardbound) is by Gregory Llewellyn and Naomi Hart. It was originally published by Murdoch Books Allen & Unwin in 2015. The authors are responsible for Hartsyard "seed and feed" restaurant in Sydney, Australia. It is unabashedly "Southern US" cooking, which sort of makes it "ethnic" in the land of Oz. Fried chicken makes the event, so the centre piece of the family restaurant is chicken than has been fried. There's lots of other stuff here too, as you might find at the restaurant: apricot buckle, collard greens and bacon, banana cream pie, poutine, ginger cake, carrot pickles, chicken skin crackers, and Dixie polenta with cheese. Overall this is heavy but flavourful food. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
 
22.THE PALEO COMFORT FOOD BIBLE (Skyhorse Publishing, 2014, 2016, 252 pages, ISBN 978-1-5107-0329-2, $14.99 USD paperbound)
 
and
 
23.THE PALEO DESSERT BIBLE (Skyhorse Publishing, 2014, 2016, 252 pages, ISBN 978-1-5107-0524-1, $14.99 USD paperbound)
are both authored by Anna Conrad, who is both a caterer (Chef Anna) and healthy meal planner (Ideal Mealz). They were published in hard covers in 2014 (the COMFORT FOOD book was pluralized back then as COMFORT FOODS). They are basic paleo books, each with more than 100 recipes for grain-free and dairy-free foods among others.  The Comfort book is loaded with chicken, beef, mushrooms, pasta, French onion soup, stews – all the foods we grew up with. The Dessert book has almond butter pie, lemon squares, pecan bars, and chocolate fudge cake. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
24.BETTY CROCKER FAST FROM-SCRATCH MEALS (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-71445-8, $19.99 USD paperbound) has 150 preps for 30 minutes cooking time or less. Features include ideas for using fruits and veggies to upgrade dishes, pantry data, farmers' markets for surpluses and stocking up. Some recipes are more than 30 minutes, but they are all for preserves and condiments which help speed up other dishes or lend added depth to the flavours. There are tips on substitutions, and full nutrition data for every recipe. The suggestions for family food include bacon-wrapped chicken and chiles, Moroccan chicken soup, and chocolate berry shooters. Just a few added twists and every family dish can be an "entertaining" dish for company. Each recipe has a time , such as "20 minutes or less". Some are "5 minutes or less". Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
25.BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS JAMS & JELLIES (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-71555-4, $19.99 USD paperbound) has over 100 preps for preserving. The book is exotic enough to encourage bacon-shallot jam, which would not have appeared a few years back. In fact, there are other savoury spreads which are enticing. The book contains freezer jam, juice jelly, low-sugar, low-sugar pectin, and a chapter on presenting homemade jams and jellies for gifting. And, of course, safety is discussed, with a concluding chapter on troubleshooting. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
26.COOKING WITH LOULA (Artisan, 2015, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-668-3, $29.95 USD hardbound) is by Alexandra Stratou, who was born in Athens. From her food website she self-published "Cooking to Share" in 2013, which was the original edition of this book. It is a good basic Greek cookbook of family recipes meant for sharing through family life. Even Alice Waters agrees with her ("soulful and imaginative way that honors the generations of cooks who have come before her"). It is loosely arranged by type of meal: weekdays, Sundays, summer holidays, traditions, and basic recipes. There are two indexes: one regular and one that is a list of preps by name and by time, so you can see the longer eight hour preps (roast suckling pig, gavros marinatos) and the shorter meze or salad under 30 minutes (laqhano karoto, skordalia). In between are all the other 90 recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
27.BOURBON EMPIRE (Penguin Books, 2015, 2016, 310 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-310814-6, $17 USD paperbound) is by spirits writer Reid Mitenbuler. It was first published in hard covers in 2015; this is the paperback reprint. It is a basic history book of bourbon in  American culture and life, accompanied by historical black and white archive photos and drawings. He covers the Whiskey Rebellion of 1794 at epic length, the craft of production, bootlegging, lobbying and Prohibition. It is an interesting book, with a bibliography and extensive index, well-worth reading – especially in the paperback format. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
28.SUPERLEGUMES (Appetite by Random House Canada, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-753012-7, $19.95 CAD paperbound) is by Chrissy Freer of Australia, who earlier had written the best-selling Supergrains. The current book was originally published in a slightly different form in Australia by Murdoch Books. It is here presented in its Canadian version. It's a holistic health focus, using whole foods for nutritional balance, low Glycemic index counts, and with gluten-free and dairy-free options. The 85 recipes embrace chickpeas, white beans, soy beans, adzuki, fava, horlotti, pinto, black, kidney, plus peas, lentils, peanuts and more. Many of the dried legumes can be used also for their flour, which is particularly useful for gluten-free baking. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
29.THE INDIAN FAMILY KITCHEN (Appetite by Random House Canada, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-147-52997-8, $29.95 CAD hardbound) is by Anjali Pathak, granddaughter of the founders of Patak's curry pastes and sauces. It was originally published in the UK by Mitchell Beazley in a slightly different form. This is its Canadian debut. These are classic family dishes for the "next" generation, with her contemporary take on many classic dishes. Indian spices are the highlights here, being added to seasonal and vegetable- inspired preps. The range covers small and large plates, veggies, BBQ for summer, desserts and drinks. Along the way she has sidebars on chiles, kitchen gadgets, pantries, spices, wines, and shortcuts. There are family memories as well, and great photography. The 100 or so preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
30.COOK. NOURISH. GLOW. (Appetite by Random House, 2016, 336 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-753019-6, $35 CAD hardbound) is by Amelia Freer, a nutritional therapist who also authored Eat.Nourish.Glow. This latest book, originally published in the UK last year by Michael Joseph, is the Canadian release of 120 recipes that "will help you lose weight, look younger, and feel healthier." This is getting to be a big business thing now, with many such books advocating a more streamlined lifestyle of exercise, stress reduction, hydration, fewer acidic foods, more green leafy plants, lower gluten and lower sugar, with a watchful eye on reactions. The emphasis in selling the book is mainly to young or middle-aged women, using the fact that skin can glow and be enhanced with this kind of diet. You will age, but not as quickly...There are some good tips on kitchen confidence here. Dishes include crunchy veggie tabbouleh with coconut cream and herb dressing, cucumber ribbons with tahini dressing, millet-sesame croquettes with tamari dipping sauce, tapenade layered eggs, spiced coconut crème anglaise with pineapple and goji berries. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for July 23, 2016.

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for July 23, 2016.
=======================================================================
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
So many people have asked me for wine recommendations, with numbers only. The readers' most common response is that while they like what I say, they only relate to the score. The score is a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, where e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone and not like a Northern Rhone) and Quality/Price Ratio. Let's take it for granted that, e.g., a Riesling tastes like a Riesling, and the wine has some value in the marketplace either above or below its selling price. This way too I can also cover more wines.
 
This restructured wine newsletter for the Ontario market (with wines available through the LCBO and Vintages on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at    http://www.deantudor.com
 
20 under $20
=========
R-Atalaya Laya 2014 Almansa  Spain, +132605, $15.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR:  90.
R-Bod Piqueras Castillo de Almansa Old Vines Seleccion 2010 Almasa, +586719, $16.95, 14.5%ABV.
MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Gonzalez Byass Finca Constancia Seleccion 2013 Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, +376384, $16.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 92.
W-Maetierra Atlantis Albarino 2015 Rias Baixas, +452078, $16.95, 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Gil Family Entresuelos Tempranillo 2013 Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon, +462440, $16.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2013 VQA Niagara, +367797, $19.95, 13% ABV,
MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Redstone Limestone Vineyard South Riesling 2012 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, +381251, $19.20, 9.5%ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Watchdog Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Columbia Valley, +461178, $17.95, 13.5%ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 La Consulta/Tupungato Valleys Mendoza, +140855, $19.95, 14%ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2014 Uco Valley Mendoza, +167619, $16.95, 14%ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Indomita Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Maipo, +434191, $15.95, 14%ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.
R-Santa Carolina Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Maipo, +461202, $16.95, 14%ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.
R-Rockbare Mojo Shiraz 2013 Barossa Valley, +327767, $18.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 91.
R-Domaine Autrand Cotes du Rhone 2014, +380675, $13.95, 14% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-M.Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone 2014, +328831, $16.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Pala I Fiori Vermentino di Sardegna 2015, +52068, $15.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Abad dom Bueno Mencia 2008 Bierzo, +291989, $15.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Garces Dilva Boya Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Leyda Valley, +389726, $15.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Santa Rita Medalla Real Syrah 2012 Limari, +443523,  $17.95, 14.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-St.Hallett Gamekeeper's Shiraz 2014 Baross, +166991, $17.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
 
 
20 over $20
=========
W-Markham Chardonnay 2014 Napa, +418277, $23.95,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Yacochuya 2006 Cafayate Calchaqui Valley Salta, +35964, $57.95, 16.3% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Stoneleigh Latitude Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +324228, $21.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Roger & Didier Raimbault Sancerre 2014, +82255, $26.95, 12.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 90.
R-Bachelder Hautes Cotes Cotes de Beaune 2013, +445247, $27.95, 13%ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Beni di Batasiolo Riserva Barolo 2006, +330704,  $39.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Le Arche Amarone della Valipolicella 2012, +95836, $34.95, 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
W-Flowers Chardonnay 2014 Sonoma Coast, +215210, $68.95, 13.5% ABV,  MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Emmolo Merlot 2013 Napa, +96024, $69.95, 15.1% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.
R-Creation Pinot Noir 2014 WO Walker Bay So. Africa, +455279, $26.95, 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.
W-Anselmi Capitel Croce 2014 IGT Veneto, +966655, $26.95,  13%ABV,  MVC/QPR: 89.
R-16 Mile Cellar Rebel Pinot Noir 2011 VQA Niagara, +461731, $22.95, 13.3% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Chareau des Charmes St.David's Bench Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2012 VQA St David's Bench NOTL, +434415, $27.95,  MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Silver Oak Twomey Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Napa/Sonoma, +458695, $44.95, 13.7% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
W-Kim Crawford Small Parcels Spitfire Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Marlborough, +38240, $24.95, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Chateau Blaignan 2010 Cru Bourgeois Medoc, +416727, $25.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Caiarossa Pergolaia 2009 IGT Toscana, +460097, $31.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Querciabella Chianti Classico 2013, +728816, $37.95, 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.
R-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 VQA Niagara, +33894, $30, MVC/QPR: 87.
W-William Fevre Champs Royaux Chablis 2014, +461640, $24.95, MVC/QPR: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com