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Wednesday, June 7, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for JUNE 10, 2023 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for JUNE 10, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER, the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.

** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Month ---

DATE: Monday April 17th from 1pm-4pm
The Event: Boldly New York – Toronto Trade Tasting
The Venue: Peter Pan Bistro
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: the paperless catalogue was available via a downloadable cloud file.
The Quote/Background: There are 144 wineries in New York state, which embraces the Finger Lakes regions, Long Island, and Hudson Valley. New York is the third largest wine-producing area in the US after California and Washington state. Ten producers and their principals attended to pour 80+ wines: Boundary Breaks - Paul Mozeley;
Dr. Konstantin Frank - Eric Baist; Element Winery - Christopher Bates; Forge Cellars - Richard Rainy; Hermann J. Wiemer - Oskar Bynke; Heron Hill - Jordan Harris; Living Roots - Colleen Hardy; Mazza Chautauqua - Kevin Faehndrich; Ravines Wine Cellars - Lisa and Morten Hallgren; and Wagner Vineyards - Alex Jankowski.

The Wines: I only tasted white wines (except for an expensive red) – there were 8 chardonnays and 24 rieslings plus an assortment of sauvignon blancs and gruners. Where possible I added the name of the agent. Prices varied from the initial catalogue, so many of them may be inaccurate but within that range.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Channing Daughters Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2020 Long Island CA$20
-Element Winery Syrah 2016 Finger Lakes CA$195
-Forge Cellars Riesling Caywood Vineyard 2020 Finger Lakes CA$38
-Forge Cellars Riesling Willow Vineyard 2020 Finger Lakes CA$38
-Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Riesling Dry 2021 Finger Lakes CA$30.12 Living Vine agency
-Heron Hill Winery Heron Hill Ingle Vineyard Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes $42 Le Savoir-Boire agency
-Heron Hill Winery Reserve Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes $34
-Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Chardonnay 2020 Finger Lakes CA$25.00
-Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Unoaked Chardonnay 2021 Finger Lakes CA$24.95 July 22 Vintages Release
-Wölffer Estate Summer In A Bottle Rosé 2022 Lake Ontario [Merlot, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc]
-Wölffer Estate Vineyard Summer In A Bottle White 2021 New York [Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Blanc]
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Caywood East Dry Riesling 2021 Finger Lakes CA$38.95
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Riesling Select 2021 Finger Lakes CA$32.95 [35 year old vines]

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Boundary Breaks #239 Dry Riesling 2021 Finger Lakes CA$30.62
-Brotherhood Chardonnay 2019 Finger Lakes CA$23 Epic Wine agency
-Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Dry Riesling 2021 Finger Lakes
-Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Grüner Veltliner 2019 Finger Lakes
-Forge Cell-ars Dry Riesling Classique 2020 Finger Lakes CA$32
-Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Riesling HJW Vineyard 2020 Finger Lakes CA$61.61 Living Vine agency
-Heron Hill Winery Reserve Chardonnay 2021 Finger Lakes Le Savoir-Boire agency
-Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Dry Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes CA$25
-Lieb Cellars Estate Chardonnay 2021 North Fork of Long Island CA$37.95
-Mazza Chautauqua Cellars Riesling Nutt Road 2017 Finger Lakes CA$16.00
-Ravines Wine Cellars Ravines Dry Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes
-Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling Argetsinger Vineyard 2019 Finger Lakes
-Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling White Springs Vineyard 2020 Finger Lakes
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Chardonnay Unoaked 2021 Finger Lakes CA$27.95
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Dry Riesling 2021 Finger Lakes CA$32.95
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Riesling Semi Dry 2021 Finger Lakes CA$32.95
-Wölffer Estate Vineyard Wolffer Sauvignon Blanc 2021 New York
-Wölffer Estate Vineyard Wölffer Estate Chardonnay 2021 Long Island

The Food: a grazing assortment of flatbreads and root veggie crisps, dips, hummus, raw veggies, puff pastry twists, cheeses (blue, smoked), olives. Good comfort foods.
The Downside: very noisy crowd (hard surfaces), my concern about prices.
The Upside: a rare opportunity to taste New York state wines.
The Contact Person: melissa@amcc-inc.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 85

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are good value...on sale through Sunday June 18...

[red] Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja +976662, now $28.95, save $3.
[red] Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Riserva Chianti Classico, +943613, now $20.95, save $4.
[red] Rivera Il Falcone Riserva Castel de Monte Puglia, +177295, $23.95, save $3.
[red] The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy VQA +149237, now $16.95, save $3.
[white] Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont +250696, now $16.95, save $3.
[white] Tawse Quarry Road Organic Riesling VWQA +198853, now $21.95, save $3.
[fizz] Louis Bouillot Perle d'Aurore Brut Rose Cremant de Bourgogne, +48793, now $25.95, save $2.
[splurge] Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico +356220, now $44.95, save $5.
[splurge] Chamisal Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay Santa Barbara 2016 +16025, now $35.95, save $4.


MAJOR THEME: Online LCBO.com Purchases and In Store Discoveries at the Ten Flagship Stores (40+ wines). Sorry, no printed catalogues....

Wines Under $20
=========
W+33169 Tawse Skin Fermented White 2021 VQA $16.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Wines Over $20
=========
W+30933 Salomon Undhof Gelber Wildrosen Traminer 2019 Kremstal Austria $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+417774 Domaine Queylus Tradition Chardonnay 2019 VQA $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+31185 Tres Bagos Reserva White 2021 Douro Portugal $22.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+127712 Ferraton Pere et Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage 2020 Rhone $33.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+14985 Famille Perrin L'Argnee Vieilles Vignes Gigondas 2020 Rhone $66.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+30117 Librandi Megonio 2020 IGT Calabria $24.95 MVC/QPR: 89
R+30753 Spring Roads Shiraz Kangaroo Island South Australia 2017 $32.95 MVC/QPR: 92.
Fizz+32030 Ken Forrester Sparklehorse Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2019 Traditional Method WO Stellenbosch $32.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Dean Tudor, Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Friday, June 2, 2023

Major Tasting of Featherstone Estate Winery wines to be released in 2023....

1.Featherstone Estate Winery Four Feathers 2022 VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 +341586 (their first general list wine at the LCBO, to be released in June): a summer social sipper or quaffer, combining 41.6% riesling and 40.7% chardonnay with 15.9% sauvignon blanc and balance pinot grigio – all highly aromatic grapes. The percentages change from vintage to vintage depending on vineyard conditions. Stainless steel fermentation. Typical fruit flavours to be found include pineapple, melon, lemon, some mango, and some sweet parts of citric tones near the finish. A popular seller with 2501 cases. Incredibly fresh and fruity tones for summer. Vegan friendly. 15g/L residual sugar. 12.9% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


2.Featherstone Estate Winery Black Sheep Riesling 2021 VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 +80234 Vintages Essential: more in the Mosel mode than Rhine wine, this delicious all Riesling sipper is loaded with a nose of citrus highlights (lemon, plentiful lime, grapefruit) evolving to Ontario orchard fruit on the mid-palate with some minerality and a long finish which also makes it nifty food wine for many Asiatic dishes. Medium body, off-dry. Suitable for aging (to get that "petrol" character). 1429 cases made. 9.5% ABV. Consistent vintage RS 21 g/L. Vegan friendly. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.



3.Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2022 VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 +89011 Vintages October 7: 20% of this wine went into neutral Canadian oak barrel for fermentation, leaving 80% for stainless steel. That contributed to the softness and to the muted tones of grassiness. Tropical flowers are accented rather than tropical fruit, and this too adds to its dryness culminating with ending citrus notes for a long finish. It's a great wine for savvy lovers who go for complexity rather than just herbs. At the same time, this allows for more food choices. Only 408 cases. Vegan friendly. 5 g/L residual sugar, 12.7% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


4.Featherstone Estate Winery Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2021 VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 +149302 Vintages September 23: one of my faves. Over the years it has simply gotten better as the grapevines matured. Wild indigenous yeast is used. Good mid-tone oaky component (it is very easy to say it is mid-way between French and US oak) from the use of nearby Canadian oak trees. 10% new oak, 90% 1 to 5 year old. Terrific ripe orchard fruit aromas and palate. Plus vanillin and cream after the mid-palate leading to citric food-friendly finish. Needs more time for balancing, but then at that moment it will be awesome. Vegan friendly. 328 cases. 12.5% ABV. 1.2 g/L residual sugar. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


5.Featherstone Estate Winery Pinot Grigio 2022 VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 +20599 Vintages July 22: this is a highly competitive category, but Featherstone goes up very well against the other PGs in Ontario, especially with its slight yellow colour. Its colour and even its taste can slot it into the rose category, or even the "orange" wine area. Typical nuances include off-dry orchard fruit (peach, pear, apple) with some aromatic melon-ish overtones. It is refreshing on the mid-palate, finishing with slightly bitter citric notes. That makes it both a sipper and a food wine, suitable as a pre-prandial in the summer. There is some Ontario cranberry tartness and some melon sweetness, but also with some peach notes. Stainless steel all the way, with half being pressed immediately and half left to soak on skins before pressing. Vegan friendly. 10g/L residual sugar. 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


6.Featherstone Estate Winery Phoenix 2022 VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 +519025 Vintages August 19: Gewurztraminer done up in stainless steel, very Alsatian in style, with concentrated fruit, off-dry on the mid-palate, spicy with a tad of bitter on the finish, great with Asiatic foods or any spicy foods. Or wonderful as an aperitif by the deck/patio/pool/terrace/balcony. Capable of improvement over the next few years. Vegan friendly. Strictly limited at 75 cases total production. 10 g/L residual sugar. 12.3% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


7.Featherstone Estate Winery Frostbite Select Late Harvest Gewurztraminer 2022 VQA Niagara Peninsula [half-bottle] $29.95 at winery retail store: On the nose, very aromatic with major tropical tones of melons and lychees, very much in the fruity Alsatian style of "tardif" gewurztraminer. Yum. Cool fermentation in stainless steel, with typical concentrated gewurztraminer modes of lychees, spices, limes, some roses on the mid-palate. Best as a desert wine by the deck or porch or pool, or with fragrant cheeses, spicy and/or creamy dessert foods, with a tad of bitter on the finish. Great with Asiatic foods. Vegan friendly. 112 cases. 14% ABV. Residual sugar is 66g/L. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


8.Featherstone Estate Winery Rose 2022 VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 +117861 Vintages May 27: over the years, this rose has had varying amounts of grape varieties – all dependent on what wily winemaker David Johnson sees as the best possible blend. In the past it has had pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon, as well as gamay noir, merlot, chardonnay, and cabernet franc. This latest vintage (2022) has cabernet sauvignon 49%, cabernet franc 18.7%, gamay noir 18.7%, and pinot noir 13.7%. It's an extremely useful wine for any event, any occasion, with any food, or just alone as a sipper on the beach/patio/deck/terrace/backyard/porch/balcony – even in front of a roaring fireplace (as I did just this week when the temperature dropped). Expect plenty of red fruit tones in its deliciousness. Great price. Vegan friendly. 1148 cases. 11.8g/L residual sugar, 12.8% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.



9.Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2021 VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 +64618
Vintages Essential: a consistent blend of 95% cabernet franc and 5% merlot. All US oak was used – 25% new barrels for 10 months. Full malolactic fermentation. Medium-bodied with an assortment of tastes of cherry-berries and plums, some leafy qualities. Black pepper. Long, long finish showing tart-ish food-loving acid balances. Should go well with BBQ veggies. Keep for another few years (I tasted one bottle over a week). Vegan friendly. 2067 cases. 1.7 g/L residual sugar. 12.2% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


10.Featherstone Estate Winery Red Tail Merlot 2021 VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 Vintages +131540: Merlot is still recovering from its dissing by Pinot Noir in the movie "Sideways". But a lot of wineries still enjoy making it. David Johnson the winemaker has here produced a delightfully fruity but dryish drop that is also affordable. Aged 10 months in French oak (25% new), 100% malolactic fermentation. Expect black fruit cherry-berry complexity, headed by cassis. Both a patio sipper and a food wine, and ready now for current drinking and accompanying any kind of comfort food. Vegan friendly. 499 cases made. RS 2.3 g/L 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


11.Featherstone Estate Winery Gamay Noir 2021 VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 winery retail store: medium-full-bodied, suggestive of lighter Beaujolais wines such as Fleurie. Dark cherry-berry flavours dominate, but there is added spicing and even some nuances of earthiness and eucalyptus (the wine is oaked for ten months in US barrels). Good with BBQ, cheese, or something substantial, but a tannic/tart structure of refreshing cranberies is present to carry through a whole meal. 348 cases produced. Vegan friendly. 11.5% ABV, Residual sugar 1.3g/L. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, May 31, 2023

New roses at the LCBO, as of May 27, 2023

The LCBO unleashed its summer Rose offerings on May 27– charming, light and fruity, simple vinosity with enough depth to accompany appetizers..Here are my choices from FRANCE [best] and ONTARIO [local] – and a few others that struck my fancy...all unrated...

French Roses --
+32074 DOM BRIAL LE POT ROSÉ 2022 $15.95
+667337 HAMPTON WATER ROSÉ 2022 $29.95
+556209 GÉRARD BERTRAND PERLES DE GRENACHE ROSÉ 2022 $19.95
+20012 LE BIJOU DE SOPHIE VALROSE ROSÉ 2022 $17.95
+491027 CAVES D'ESCLANS ROCK ANGEL ROSÉ 2021 $49.95
+701318 DOMAINE MABY LA FORCADIÈRE TAVEL ROSÉ 2022 $23.95
+719062 FAMILLE PERRIN RÉSERVE ROSÉ 2022 $17.95

Ontario Roses --
+177840 PENINSULA RIDGE BEAL VINEYARD CABERNET ROSÉ VQA 2022 $16.95
+32902 DOMAINE QUEYLUS ROSÉ VQA 2021 $24.95
+649863 CREW RED SKY AT NIGHT ROSÉ VQA 2022 $17.95
+117861 FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ VQA 2022 $16.95
+16454 MARYNISSEN ESTATES ROSÉ VQA 2021 $16.95
+559088 MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2021 $17.95
+552562 SPECK BROS. THREE OF HEARTS ROSÉ 2021 $19.95

Other roses --
+32026 SUSANA BALBO CRIOS ROSÉ OF MALBEC 2022 ARGENTINA $17.95
+19846 CONFIDENCIAL RESERVA ROSÉ 2022 PORTUGAL $16.95



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, May 24, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for May 27, 2023 release.




WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for May 27, 2023 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for May 27, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER, the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.

** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Month or so ---

TASTE ONTARIO ! TORONTO

The Date and Time: Wednesday April 12, 2023 11A to 5PM
The Event: TASTE ONTARIO ! TORONTO
The Venue: Park Hyatt
The Target Audience: wine media, agents, and sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: The paper catalogue was replete with data and info on each wine, plus an overview of the Ontario VQA wine industry. Prices listed were both for licensees and for retail sales. Contacts were listed for each winery.
The Quote/Background: 62 wineries participated from the Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara Peninsula, Prince Edward County, and Emerging Regions. All of the 300+ wines featured are available to order.
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines; I was focused on chardonnays and sparklers. I divided my time between the media room (where I could sit down) and the trade show floor (where I could stand up). Prices are retail.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tawse Winery Robyn's Block Chardonnay 2020 $47.15 [MY FAVE]
-Adamo Estate Winery Growers Series Oaked Chardonnay 2019 $19.95
-Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020 $19.95
-Closson Chase Vineyards Churchside Chardonnay PEC 2019 $50
-Lighthall Vineyards Estate Chardonnay PEC 2020 $37.85
-2027 Cellars Wismer Vineyard Foxcroft Block Chardonnay 2020 $30
-Bachelder Wismer Vineyard Foxcroft "Nord" Chardonnay 2020
-Bachelder Les Villages Chardonnay 2021 $35
-Cave Spring Vineyard Chardonnay CSV 2020 $34.95
-Domaine Queylus Chardonnay Signature 2018
-Flat Rock Cellars Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2020 $34.95
-Hidden Bench Bistro Chardonnay 2019
-Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2020 $54.95
-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2020 $39.95
-Westcott Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2020 $29.99
-Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 $30.95
-Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2020 $27.95
-Southbrook Organic Vineyard Triomphe Chardonnay 2019 $26.95

-Ravine Vineyard Estate Limited Edition Vintage Brut 2011 $135 [300 bottles] [MY FAVE]
-Drea's Wine Co. Small Batch Blanc de Blanc 2020 $59.50
-Stratus Blanc de Blanc 2015
-Charles Baker Wines Cuvee du Boulanger Blanc de Blancs 2020 $39.95
-Rockway Vineyards Limited Edition Brut Cuvee Sparkling NV $90
-Trius Sparkling Brut NV $29.95
-Trius Sparkling Brut Rose NV $29.95
-Trius Showcase Brut Nature Sparkling NV $54.95
-Lighthall Vineyards Culmination Blanc de Blancs Sparkling PEC 2019 $39.95
-13th Street Winery Blanc de Blanc NV $29.95
-Two Sisters Blanc de Franc 2019
-Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Entourage Blanc de Blanc 2017 $27.95
-Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Entourage Sparkling Brut 2017 $49.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Cuvee Catherine Estate Blanc de Blanc Carte Blanche 2017 $49.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Adamo Estate Winery Sogno Unoaked Chardonnay 2021 $19.95
-KIN Vineyards Carp Ridge Chardonnay 2019 $32
-Pelee Island Winery Vinedressers Chardonnay 2021 $19.95
-Broken Stone Winery Chardonnay PEC 2020
-Closson Chase Vineytard Chardonnay PEC 2020 $35
-Lighthall Vineyards Fondation Chardonnay PEC 2021 $24.95
-Norman Hardie Chardonnay PEC 2020 $59.20
-Rosehall JCR Chardonnay Rosehall Vineyard PEC 2019 $36
-Bachelder Mineralite Chardonnay 2021 $25
-Calamus Estate Barrel Kissed Chardonnay 2021 $21.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Estate Chardonnay 2020 $19.95
-Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2020 $29.95
-Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2020 $25.20
-Legends Estates Chardonnay Reserve 2017 $21
-Meldville Chardonnay 2019 $20
-Meldville Chardonnay Barrel Select 2019 $26
-Reif Chardonnay 2020 $19.15
-Two Sisters Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2019 $39

-Westcott Vineyards Violette Sparkling Brut 2021 $29.99
-The Foreign Affair Winery Sparkling Rose Brut NV $24.95
-Bella Terra Vineyards Sparkling Brut $24.95

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-KIN Vineyards Carp Ridge Skin Fermented Chardonnay 2021 $26
-Bonnie Vivant Chardonnay 2021 $34.04
-Cooper's Hawk Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2020 $15.15
-Casa-Dea Estates Winery Unoaked Chardonnay PEC 2021 $20.95
-Trail Estate County Chardonnay Vintage 3 PEC 2019 $50
-Vineland Estates Winery Un-oaked Chardonnay 2021 $15.95

The Food: there were several charcuterie boards, with cheeses and meats and veggies and fruit, plus breads and dips.
The Downside: it was jam packed, which made it awkward to move about from table to table.
The Upside: I had a great opportunity to taste many chardonnays and sparklers. It was peaceful in the media room.
The Contact Person: lauren.garrard@wmao.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.




** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are good value...on sale through Sunday June 18...

[red] Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja +976662, now $28.95, save $3.
[red] Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Riserva Chianti Classico, +943613, now $20.95, save $4.
[red] Rivera Il Falcone Riserva Castel de Monte Puglia, +177295, $23.95, save $3.
[red] The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy VQA +149237, now $16.95, save $3.
[white] Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont +250696, now $16.95, save $3.
[white] Tawse Quarry Road Organic Riesling VQA +198853, now $21.95, save $3.
[fizz] Louis Bouillot Perle d'Aurore Brut Rose Cremant de Bourgogne, +48793, now $25.95, save $2.
[splurge] Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico +356220, now $44.95, save $5.
[splurge] Chamisal Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay Santa Barbara 2016 +16025, now $35.95, save $4.


MAJOR THEME: Rose – charming, light and fruity, simple vinosity with enough depth to accompany appetizers..Here are my choices from FRANCE [best] and ONTARIO [local] – and a few others that struck my fancy...all unrated...

French Roses --
+32074 DOM BRIAL LE POT ROSÉ 2022 $15.95
+667337 HAMPTON WATER ROSÉ 2022 $29.95
+556209 GÉRARD BERTRAND PERLES DE GRENACHE ROSÉ 2022 $19.95
+20012 LE BIJOU DE SOPHIE VALROSE ROSÉ 2022 $17.95
+491027 CAVES D'ESCLANS ROCK ANGEL ROSÉ 2021 $49.95
+701318 DOMAINE MABY LA FORCADIÈRE TAVEL ROSÉ 2022 $23.95
+719062 FAMILLE PERRIN RÉSERVE ROSÉ 2022 $17.95

Ontario Roses --
+177840 PENINSULA RIDGE BEAL VINEYARD CABERNET ROSÉ VQA 2022 $16.95
+32902 DOMAINE QUEYLUS ROSÉ VQA 2021 $24.95
+649863 CREW RED SKY AT NIGHT ROSÉ VQA 2022 $17.95
+117861 FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ VQA 2022 $16.95
+16454 MARYNISSEN ESTATES ROSÉ VQA 2021 $16.95
+559088 MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2021 $17.95
+552562 SPECK BROS. THREE OF HEARTS ROSÉ 2021 $19.95

Other roses --
+32026 SUSANA BALBO CRIOS ROSÉ OF MALBEC 2022 ARGENTINA $17.95
+19846 CONFIDENCIAL RESERVA ROSÉ 2022 PORTUGAL $16.95


Wines Under $20 [regular release]
====================
W+959361 PIERRE SPARR GRANDE RÉSERVE RIESLING 2020 ALSACE $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+196956 JOSEPH CATTIN PINOT GRIS 2021 ALSACE $16.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+484139 DOMAINE TARIQUET SAUVIGNON BLANC MIDI 2022 $16.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+30120 ROCCA DELLE MACÌE CAMPO MACCIONE VERMENTINO 2021 ITALY $17.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+31123 CAPE POINT VINEYARDS NOORDHOEK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 SOUTH AFRICA $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+12119 POMELADO ORANGE WINE 2021 SPAIN $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+30344 LANZADO ORGANIC ORANGE WINE 2021 SPAIN $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.

Wines Over $20 [regular release]
===================
W+417774 QUEYLUS TRADITION CHARDONNAY 2019 VQA $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+256552 CAVE SPRING ESTATE GROWN CHARDONNAY 2019 VQA $21.95 MVC/QPR: 91.
R+390872 WOLF BLASS GREY LABEL SHIRAZ 2018 AUSTRALIA $34.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+471797 CREEKSIDE ICONOCLAST SYRAH 2020 VQA $25 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+30145 SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE ORGANIC PINOT NOIR 2021 VQA $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+78725 CHÂTEAU PINERAIE CAHORS 2020 $22.95 MVC/QPR: 90.
R+29817 FARINA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2016 $63.95 MVC/QPR: 89.


Dean Tudor, Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Sunday, May 21, 2023

Best LCBO Limited Time Offers, good through Sunday June 18...

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are good value...on sale through Sunday June 18...

[red] Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja +976662, now $28.95, save $3.
[red] Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Riserva Chianti Classico, +943613, now $20.95, save $4.
[red] Rivera Il Falcone Riserva Castel de Monte Puglia, +177295, $23.95, save $3.
[red] The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy VQA +149237, now $16.95, save $3.
[white] Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont +250696, now $16.95, save $3.
[white] Tawse Quarry Road Organic Riesling VQA +198853, now $21.95, save $3.
[fizz] Louis Bouillot Perle d'Aurore Brut Rose Cremant de Bourgogne, +48793, now $25.95, save $2.
[splurge] Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico +356220, now $44.95, save $5.
[splurge] Chamisal Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay Santa Barbara 2016 +16025, now $35.95, save $4.



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Thursday, May 18, 2023

The Event: Boldly New York – Toronto Trade Tasting

DATE: Monday April 17th from 1pm-4pm
The Event: Boldly New York – Toronto Trade Tasting
The Venue: Peter Pan Bistro
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: the paperless catalogue was available via a downloadable cloud file.
The Quote/Background: There are 144 wineries in New York state, which embraces the Finger Lakes regions, Long Island, and Hudson Valley. New York is the third largest wine-producing area in the US after California and Washington state. Ten producers and their principals attended to pour 80+ wines: Boundary Breaks - Paul Mozeley;
Dr. Konstantin Frank - Eric Baist; Element Winery - Christopher Bates; Forge Cellars - Richard Rainy; Hermann J. Wiemer - Oskar Bynke; Heron Hill - Jordan Harris; Living Roots - Colleen Hardy; Mazza Chautauqua - Kevin Faehndrich; Ravines Wine Cellars - Lisa and Morten Hallgren; and Wagner Vineyards - Alex Jankowski.

The Wines: I only tasted white wines (except for an expensive red) – there were 8 chardonnays and 24 rieslings plus an assortment of sauvignon blancs and gruners. Where possible I added the name of the agent. Prices varied from the initial catalogue, so many of them may be inaccurate but within that range.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Channing Daughters Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2020 Long Island CA$20
-Element Winery Syrah 2016 Finger Lakes CA$195
-Forge Cellars Riesling Caywood Vineyard 2020 Finger Lakes CA$38
-Forge Cellars Riesling Willow Vineyard 2020 Finger Lakes CA$38
-Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Riesling Dry 2021 Finger Lakes CA$30.12 Living Vine agency
-Heron Hill Winery Heron Hill Ingle Vineyard Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes $42 Le Savoir-Boire agency
-Heron Hill Winery Reserve Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes $34
-Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Chardonnay 2020 Finger Lakes CA$25.00
-Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Unoaked Chardonnay 2021 Finger Lakes CA$24.95 July 22 Vintages Release
-Wölffer Estate Summer In A Bottle Rosé 2022 Lake Ontario [Merlot, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc]
-Wölffer Estate Vineyard Summer In A Bottle White 2021 New York [Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Blanc]
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Caywood East Dry Riesling 2021 Finger Lakes CA$38.95
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Riesling Select 2021 Finger Lakes CA$32.95 [35 year old vines]

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Boundary Breaks #239 Dry Riesling 2021 Finger Lakes CA$30.62
-Brotherhood Chardonnay 2019 Finger Lakes CA$23 Epic Wine agency
-Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Dry Riesling 2021 Finger Lakes
-Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Grüner Veltliner 2019 Finger Lakes
-Forge Cell-ars Dry Riesling Classique 2020 Finger Lakes CA$32
-Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Riesling HJW Vineyard 2020 Finger Lakes CA$61.61 Living Vine agency
-Heron Hill Winery Reserve Chardonnay 2021 Finger Lakes Le Savoir-Boire agency
-Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Dry Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes CA$25
-Lieb Cellars Estate Chardonnay 2021 North Fork of Long Island CA$37.95
-Mazza Chautauqua Cellars Riesling Nutt Road 2017 Finger Lakes CA$16.00
-Ravines Wine Cellars Ravines Dry Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes
-Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling Argetsinger Vineyard 2019 Finger Lakes
-Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling White Springs Vineyard 2020 Finger Lakes
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Chardonnay Unoaked 2021 Finger Lakes CA$27.95
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Dry Riesling 2021 Finger Lakes CA$32.95
-Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery Riesling Semi Dry 2021 Finger Lakes CA$32.95
-Wölffer Estate Vineyard Wolffer Sauvignon Blanc 2021 New York
-Wölffer Estate Vineyard Wölffer Estate Chardonnay 2021 Long Island

The Food: a grazing assortment of flatbreads and root veggie crisps, dips, hummus, raw veggies, puff pastry twists, cheeses (blue, smoked), olives. Good comfort foods.
The Downside: very noisy crowd (hard surfaces), my concern about prices.
The Upside: a rare opportunity to taste New York state wines.
The Contact Person: melissa@amcc-inc.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 85



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, May 9, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: for the May 13, 2023 release.


WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: for the May 13, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER, the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.

** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Month or so ---

LOIRE VALLEY WINES TORONTO!

The Date and Time: Tuesday March 28 2PM - 6PM
The Event: A tasting of some 40 wines from the Loire Valley
The Venue: Second Floor Events, King Street West
The Target Audience: wine trade and wine press
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue was available online
The Quote/Background: there were ten principals/wineries, and some were looking for representation in Ontario. Some had agents pouring, some wines were available in Quebec only, at the SAQ. Loire wines are almost a semi-rarity in Ontario. There is the popular Muscadet, the sauvignon blancs of Touraine, the chenin blancs and roses of Anjou, the occasional Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay, plus Sancerre and Pouilly Fume. We did not see many high end wines today.
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines, but there were about 40+ wines available.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Amirault Saint-Nicolas De Bourgueil Les Quarterons Rouge 2020 +28249 $36.95 French Wine Destination Store in Ottawa
-Amirault Saint-Nicolas De Bourgueil Les Gravilices 2019 +28250 $36.35 French Wine Destination Store in Ottawa
-Lacheteau Sauvignon Blanc Haut Poitou Les Cimes +10632 $17.95 2022
-Lacheteau Muscadet Chateau de Cleray 2022
-Domaine des Tilleuls Essentielle Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2021 SAQ 13589133 $20.50
-Château Soucherie Savennières Blanc Clos des Perrières 2020 SAQ 13591102 $47.75
-Château Soucherie Anjou Blanc Ivoire 2022 SAQ 14221576 $25
-Famille Bougrier Confidences Vouvray Sec AOP 2021 +28239 $20.45
-Bernard Fouquet Vouvray Brut Methode Traditional NV
-La Seigneurie Saumur Fines Bulles Brut Zero 2016
-Famille Bougrier Domaine Guenault 1885 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2022

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Lacheteau Cabernet Franc Montagueret
-Lecheteau Muscadet Heritage de Cleray 2022
-Bernard Fouquet Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée Silex Sec 2021
-Bernard Fouquet Bonnes Blanches Sec Chenin Blanc Anjou 2020
-Lionel Gosseaume Les Sauterelles Touraine Sauvignon 2022
-La Seigneurie Saumur Blanc Les Pentes 2021
-La Seigneurie Saumur Mademoiselle La Seigneurie 2022 Rose
-Domaine Des Tilleuls Sauvignon Blanc La Petite Chapelle 2022
-Domaine Des Tilleuls Chardonnay La Petite Chapelle 2022
-Chateau Soucherie Rose Pivoine 2022
-Famille Bougrier Rose d'Anjou 2022
-Famille Bougrier Vouvray Chenin Blanc Doulce 2021 +253229 $19.05
-Famille Bougrier Confidences Menetou Salon 2020 +313576 $24.10

The Food: there were servers with platters of onion custard tarts and mushroom tarts. There was a cheese platter with brie, Avonlea cheddar, Balsamic onion cheddar, Fontina, and Beemster [best cheese]. Meats included chicken liver mousse, Sacy pork sausage, and Serano ham. There were excellent fresh blackberries on the plates.
The Downside: there was very little information since the catalogue was online; my request for a PDF was stalled and it arrived at the end of April (hence, the lateness of this review)
The Upside: The chance to be at a regional wine tasting.
The Contact Person: info@loirevalleywine.com or https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 84.

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are good value...on sale through Sunday May 21...

[white] +43281 Flat Rock Riesling VQA save $2, LTO price $17.95
[white] +711556 Wakefield Estate Chardonnay Padthaway South Australia save $2, LTO price $15.95
[red] +30163 Cesari Bosan Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore save $4, LTO price $29.95
[red] +681643 Chateau Argadens Bordeaux Superieur save $3, LTO price $16.95
[red] +226944 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon save $3, LTO price $26.95
[red] +59311 Seven Deadly Zins Old Vines Zinfandel Lodi save $3, LTO price $21.95
[red] +419770 C. Smith Wines of Substance Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State save $3, LTO price $21.95.
[splurge] +996405 Stag's Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa save $5, LTO price $66.95
[fizz] +12619 Vilmart Grand Reserve 1er Cru Champagne save $5, LTO price $68.95

MAJOR THEME: Order through LCBO.COM ONLINE and/or one of the Ten Flagship Stores

Wines Under $20
=========
W+485334 Kew Marsanne 2019 VQA Beamville Bench Niagara $19.95 MVC/QPR: 90
W+32811 Rockway Pinot Gris 2021 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore Niagara $20 MVC/QPR: 89

Wines Over $20
=========
W+298240 Meyer Family McLean Creek Road Chardonnay 2021 BC VQA Okanagan Valley $47.95
MVC/QPR: 89.
W+667758 Roger et Didier Raimbault Vieilles Vignes Sancerre 2018 AC Loire $43.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
Fizz+21463 Blomidon Cuvee L'Acadie Brut Sparkling Traditional Method Annapolis Valley NS $43.95 MVC/QPR: 91



Dean Tudor, Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Thursday, May 4, 2023

LOIRE VALLEY WINES TORONTO!

LOIRE VALLEY WINES TORONTO!

The Date and Time: Tuesday March 28 2PM - 6PM
The Event: A tasting of some 40 wines from the Loire Valley
The Venue: Second Floor Events, King Street West
The Target Audience: wine trade and wine press
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue was available online
The Quote/Background: there were ten principals/wineries, and some were looking for representation in Ontario. Some had agents pouring, some wines were available in Quebec only, at the SAQ. Loire wines are almost a semi-rarity in Ontario. There is the popular Muscadet, the sauvignon blancs of Touraine, the chenin blancs and roses of Anjou, the occasional Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay, plus Sancerre and Pouilly Fume. We did not see many high end wines today.
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines, but there were about 40+ wines available.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Amirault Saint-Nicolas De Bourgueil Les Quarterons Rouge 2020 +28249 $36.95 French Wine Destination Store in Ottawa
-Amirault Saint-Nicolas De Bourgueil Les Gravilices 2019 +28250 $36.35 French Wine Destination Store in Ottawa
-Lacheteau Sauvignon Blanc Haut Poitou Les Cimes +10632 $17.95 2022
-Lacheteau Muscadet Chateau de Cleray 2022
-Domaine des Tilleuls Essentielle Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2021 SAQ 13589133 $20.50
-Château Soucherie Savennières Blanc Clos des Perrières 2020 SAQ 13591102 $47.75
-Château Soucherie Anjou Blanc Ivoire 2022 SAQ 14221576 $25
-Famille Bougrier Confidences Vouvray Sec AOP 2021 +28239 $20.45
-Bernard Fouquet Vouvray Brut Methode Traditional NV
-La Seigneurie Saumur Fines Bulles Brut Zero 2016
-Famille Bougrier Domaine Guenault 1885 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2022

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Lacheteau Cabernet Franc Montagueret
-Lecheteau Muscadet Heritage de Cleray 2022
-Bernard Fouquet Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée Silex Sec 2021
-Bernard Fouquet Bonnes Blanches Sec Chenin Blanc Anjou 2020
-Lionel Gosseaume Les Sauterelles Touraine Sauvignon 2022
-La Seigneurie Saumur Blanc Les Pentes 2021
-La Seigneurie Saumur Mademoiselle La Seigneurie 2022 Rose
-Domaine Des Tilleuls Sauvignon Blanc La Petite Chapelle 2022
-Domaine Des Tilleuls Chardonnay La Petite Chapelle 2022
-Chateau Soucherie Rose Pivoine 2022
-Famille Bougrier Rose d'Anjou 2022
-Famille Bougrier Vouvray Chenin Blanc Doulce 2021 +253229 $19.05
-Famille Bougrier Confidences Menetou Salon 2020 +313576 $24.10

The Food: there were mobile servers with platters of onion custard tarts and mushroom tarts. There was a cheese platter with brie, Avonlea cheddar, Balsamic onion cheddar, Fontina, and Beemster [best cheese]. Meats included chicken liver mousse, Sacy pork sausage, and Serano ham. There were excellent fresh blackberries on the plates.
The Downside: there was very little information since the catalogue was online; my request for a PDF was stalled and it never arrived (hence, the lateness of this review)
The Upside: The chance to be at a regional wine tasting.
The Contact Person: info@loirevalleywine.com or https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 84.



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, April 26, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for April 29, 2023 release.


----- Forwarded Message -----
From: "deantudor@yahoo.com" <deantudor@yahoo.com>
To: Dean Tudor Tudor <dtudor@pathcom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2023, 10:31:45 a.m. EDT
Subject: WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for April 29, 2023 release.

THIS IS THE THIRD BLUE MOON RELEASE FOR APRIL 2023...

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for April 29, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER, the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.

** Some New Wines I Had Tasted ---

The Event: A tasting of Conegliano Valdobbiadene: the heart of Prosecco Superiore DOCG
The Venue: SIPS, Maud Street
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers (over two dozen in all)
The Availability/Catalogue: this was a masterclass of higher-end Prosecco wines. These wines were generally not yet available for sale in Ontario, except as specified.
The Quote/Background: Jennifer Huether, MS, was our speaker today, and she ran over the basics of what this Italian region was all about. The hills of CV are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All of the wine made in this DOCG is white; 93% of the wine made here is sparkling. Two sub-regions produce the best Prosecco – Rive and Cartizze. The Martinotti Method (a variation of Charmat) is prescibed. While not every farmed area is organic, glyphosate has been totally banned and growers are moving toward a green sustainability. The overall top quality Proseccos come from these two regions of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, both located between Venice and the Dolomites...and these are at the DOCG level. 105 million bottles are produced every year. Each bottle should have wine that is 85% Glera grape at a minimum, with 15% maximum allowable for other grapes such as pinot nero, chardonnay, and any of some four local varieties.
Pronunciation was basically straightforward: val-doh-bee-ahhh-deh-ne
The Wines: There were 9 wines, and in general I really enjoyed the dryer ones. Each wine had about 11.5% ABV.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-L'Antica Quercia Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Nature Sui Lieviti "A" 2020 [organic wine, on lees, bone dry at 0g/L residual sugar]
-Frassinelli Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut Rive di Santa Maria di Feletto 2021 [1.5g/L residual sugar, modest finish]
-Canevel Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Biologico Campofalco Monfalcon Vineyard 2021 [90% glera, 10% verdiso, extended Charmat storage]
-Bottega Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry "Il Vino dei Poeti" [16-18 g/L RS, Noble Estates agency]
-Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry [16g/L RS, finishes drier, savoury]

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sommariva Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut [9g/L RS, jes peachy with some lemon peel]
-Ruggeri Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Quartese [9g/L RS]
-Perlage Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry Col di Manza [16g/L RS]
-Marsuret Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry Il Soller [16g/L RS]

The Food: water biscuits and water
The Contact Person: lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are good value...on sale through Sunday May 21...

[white] +43281 Flat Rock Riesling VQA save $2, LTO price $17.95
[white] +711556 Wakefield Estate Chardonnay Padthaway South Australia save $2, LTO price $15.95
[red] +30163 Cesari Bosan Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore save $4, LTO price $29.95
[red] +681643 Chateau Argadens Bordeaux Superieur save $3, LTO price $16.95
[red] +226944 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon save $3, LTO price $26.95
[red] +59311 Seven Deadly Zins Old Vines Zinfandel Lodi save $3, LTO price $21.95
[red] +419770 C. Smith Wines of Substance Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State save $3, LTO price $21.95.
[splurge] +996405 Stag's Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa save $5, LTO price $66.95
[fizz] +12619 Vilmart Grand Reserve 1er Cru Champagne save $5, LTO price $68.95


MAJOR THEME: SMART SUMMER BUYS

Wines Under $20
=========
FIZZ+16602 ALBINO ARMANI EXTRA DRY CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO $18.95 MVC/QPR: 92.
W+186346 SIDEWOOD CHARDONNAY 2019 AUSTRALIA $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+89029 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING 2021 VQA $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+99309 LEYDA GARUMA SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 CHILE $17.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+31090 ROUTE 62 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 SOUTH AFRICA $15.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+444687 LA POSTA FAZZIO MALBEC 2020 ARGENTINA $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+28081 VIÑALBA PATAGONIA RESERVA MALBEC 2020 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+523001 CAVE SPRING ESTATE GROWN CABERNET FRANC 2020 VQA $19.95 MVC/QPR: 92.
R+29978 DOMAINE DES TERRES DORÉES LE RONSAY BEAUJOLAIS 2021 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+24495 CHÂTEAU MAISON NOBLE SAINT MARTIN 2019 BORDEAUX $16.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+396382 ZACCAGNINI TRALCETTO MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2020 $16.95 MVC/QPR: 89.

Wines Over $20
=========
FIZZ+19346 THE FOREIGN AFFAIR BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING VQA $24.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
FIZZ+499442 DOMAINE STE. MICHELLE BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING $24.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+483875 THE TRAGICALLY HIP AHEAD BY A CENTURY CHARDONNAY VQA 2021 $21.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+633628 MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE RESERVE MERITAGE 2020 BCVQA $31.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+17239 BACHELDER LES VILLAGES GAMAY NOIR 2020 VQA $25.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+33894 LE CLOS JORDANNE JORDAN VILLAGE PINOT NOIR 2020 VQA $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+86363 WILDASS RED 2018 VQA $21.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+632984 PIERRE LURTON BORDEAUX 2016 $21.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+579094 CAPARZO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2017 $51.95 MVC/QPR: 89.



Dean Tudor, Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, April 25, 2023

KCIII Coronation Quiche

Lifestyle
I made coronation quiche, the royal recipe devised in honor of King Charles III, and I'm not convinced it'll become a national dish
by Mia Jankowicz
Apr 25, 2023, 11:57 AM EDT

A new recipe — coronation quiche — was launched ahead of King Charles III's coronation next month.
I decided, as a quiche novice, to try to make it for myself.
The recipe was easy to follow, but I'm not convinced that Brits will embrace it.


Britain is gearing up for King Charles III to be crowned at Westminster Abbey on May 6.

As part of the celebrations, Buckingham Palace released a new recipe, known as coronation quiche.

The new recipe comes 70 years after Queen Elizabeth II's big day, when coronation chicken — a bright, tasty, curry-inspired affair – was introduced to the tastebuds of the world.

The Queen ate it as part of her coronation luncheon, and it soon became a national classic.

Charles may well be hoping to repeat the same success with coronation quiche, which features a subtle combination of Cheddar cheese, broad beans (fava beans in the US), tarragon and spinach, some of which are seasonal ingredients in the UK right now.

I dutifully set about testing out the recipe. After a few setbacks I managed a decent attempt — though I'd likely make a few adjustments next time around.

I found the taste springy, delicate and herby, but ultimately I'm not sure it will win many hearts.

I spent roughly $13 on ingredients, including a backup shortcrust pastry, which turned out to be a wise decision.

Here's the full ingredients list. I've converted the UK units and ingredients to US ones in parentheses, but there's some rounding involved — so please take this as a loose guide only.

Pastry:

125g (4.4 oz or 1 cup) plain flour
Pinch of salt
25g (0.9 oz) cold butter, diced
25g (0.9 oz) lard
2 tablespoons milk
Or 1 x 250g (8.9 oz) block of ready-made shortcrust pastry

Filling:

125ml (0.5 cup) milk
175ml (0.75 cup) double (heavy) cream
2 medium eggs
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
Salt and pepper
100g (1 1/4 cup) grated Cheddar cheese
180g (6.4 oz) cooked spinach, lightly chopped
60g (2 oz or 0.25 cup) cooked broad beans (fava beans)


I wondered if the new recipe will take the same place in British people's hearts as coronation chicken, a cold dish that combines chicken with dried fruits and a creamy curry sauce.

Historian Barry Turner wrote that "though simple to prepare, coronation chicken was made exotic by the rarity of fresh curry spices, not to mention whipped cream, in austerity Britain."

It became easier to put together in later years, with simplified spices and the introduction of intensively-reared chicken, he wrote.

Source: "Thorns in the Crown, The Story of the Coronation and What it meant for Britain."
Today you're more likely to find this gloopy, sweet, bright yellow version, for sale as a sandwich filling. It ain't subtle, but it's as good as ever.
Supermarkets in the UK now sell containers of coronation chicken as sandwich fillers, a far cry from its royal start.

I get to work trying to create my pastry.

I was determined to try to make the pastry myself, so I cubed the butter and lard and added it to the sifted flour and salt.

I rubbed it all together to get the "sandy, breadcrumb-like" texture the recipe describes. It's important to start out with cold butter.

Though the recipe seems vegetarian, lard is pork fat, meaning that both veggies and non-pork-eaters won't be able to partake unless they replace it with another ingredient.

Just as I was congratulating myself on my crumby mixture, I got confused, adding the 125ml of milk meant for the filling, rather than the 2 tablespoons meant for the dough.

Pastry attempt No.1 was a write-off.

Attempt No.2, I ended up with a nice ball of dough. I put it in the fridge for 45 minutes and mentally high-fived the King.
I rolled this out in a circle, but even though it was thinner than the required 5mm, it still didn't seem big enough.

This was even more concerning given that the recipe calls for a 20-cm pie tin, and I had only been able to find an 18-cm one.

Anyway, time to push ahead.
Will my pastry attempt No.2 succeed – don't hold your breath.
Blind-baked shortcrust pastry in its tin, with an arrow marking "danger" where the crust has a gap.

Having preheated the oven to 190° C (375° F) I blind baked the pastry with baking beads for 15 minutes.

Sadly it came out as I feared — with dangerous gaps that my filling would surely spill through.

Attempt No.2 was also a bust.

Apparently, I'm not alone. The Guardian's review also recommends that inexperienced chefs make double the amount of pastry.
It was time to bring in the professionals.

Two hours behind schedule I switched to the shop-bought pastry.

I lined the tin, rested it in the fridge for 45 minutes, and once again blind baked it, after which I turned the oven down to 160° C (320° F) as the recipe required.
Getting my filling ingredients ready.
An overhead shot of a chopping board with a bowl of broad beans, a pile of chopped cooked spinach, and a jug with milk, cream, eggs and tarragon for the filling.
The recipe calls for cooked beans, but as I was using tinned beans they seemed soft enough already. I cooked down the spinach and made the mixture of egg, cream, milk, chopped tarragon and seasoning.

I squeezed plenty of water out of the spinach so that it wasn't soggy going in the quiche later.

If I made this again, I'd probably use gently cooked fresh beans.
I added a sprinkling of cheese, then the spinach and the beans, before pouring on the egg mix.
A composite image showing the quiche base layered with cheese, then with the beans and spinach, and then pouring the egg mixture over it.
The recipe calls for Cheddar cheese, which has a wide range of flavor profiles from really mature and sharp, through to very mild.

I opted for a medium strength, though next time I'd consider adding a small amount of stronger cheese.
It was starting to look pretty delicious. Another sprinkle of cheese, and it went in the oven.
An overhead view of the uncooked quiche, with a pot of cheese about to be sprinkled on top.

While ovens vary, the recipe calls for 20-25 minutes cooking time.
While I waited I decide to try on my failed pastry crust as a crown.

It's hard to say if it's more or less convincing as a crown than it was as a pastry crust.
It was finally time to take it out of the oven — I was pretty impressed with how it came out, and it smelled amazing.
A finished Coronation Quiche, on a pale green plate.
Now it was just a matter of waiting a bit for it to cool — cutting a slice immediately would have been messy, as the filling firms up as it cools.
I also made three little tarts using leftover ingredients.

I felt a bit guilty about all the food I'd wasted, so I used the remaining dough to make some little tarts with spare spinach, cheese, and the coronation chicken.

I scarfed them down while I waited for the main attraction to cool.
When I finally sliced into the quiche, it was just the right amount of ooze — unctuous, not runny at all, and not spongy either.
After all that effort, was it a slice fit for a king (or queen)?
And it's finally time to taste.

The quiche tasted warm, and leaned heavily on spring-like flavours — with the herbiness of the tarragon and the full flavor of the spinach dominating.

The egg was creamy and light, bringing it all together, but I couldn't really taste much of the cheese.

It's easy to picture the dish being served at a posh picnic.
I tried the quiche again the next day, and handed it out to neighbors, family, and a plumber who stopped by my place — to mixed reviews.

"It's definitely a step or two up from the standard," the plumber said.
My neighbors enjoyed it, but when pressed said they probably wouldn't seek it out again.
According to my mum, the quiche needed more seasoning, and was "quite posh and bland, or you could say delicate." She recommended more cheese as well.

Given that the British palate is not known for its subtlety, I doubt that people who like a hearty, cheesy quiche would cook this twice.

All in all, I'm not convinced King Charles III's coronation quiche is going to be a national crowd-pleaser that stands the test of time.
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Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

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Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures