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Saturday, July 31, 2010

June 17, 2010: Sip & Savour Ontario Wines

The Time and Date: Thursday, June 17, 2010  11AM to 6PM
The Event: Sip & Savour Ontario, celebrating Ontario wine week June 13
to 19.
The Venue: Pantages Hotel
The Target Audience: Ontario wine industry, wine trade.
The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines listed in the catalogue were
identified as to medal category winner (if applicable), availability
through the LCBO or the winery, and a designation whether the wines
were being tasted at the trade show and/or the consumer show that
evening.
The Quote/Background: From Tony Aspler, the organizer of the Ontario
Wine Awards: "Gold medal wines were served with each course of the
luncheon. The White Wine of the Year – garnering the highest aggregate
scores from the judges – was Huff Estates South Bay Chardonnay 2007 and
the Red Wine of the Year was Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc Reserve
2007. Following the presentations there were three seminars for the
trade – Bill Redelmeier of Southbrook spoke on Chardonnay, Norman
Hardie addressed Pinot Noir and Natalie Reynolds discussed Riesling.
Then the Trade tasting, followed by the Consumer tasting in the
evening."
 
The Wines:
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Huff Estates 2007 South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay, $29.95 – Gold, White
Wine of the Year
-Calamus Estate Gewurztraminer 2008, $17.20
-Five Rows Craft Wine of Lowrey Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $50
-Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut, +616458, $29.95
-Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2008, $19.95 –
Gold
-Konzelmann Merlot 4 Generations Barrel Aged 2007, $30
-Lailey Vineyard Old Vines Chardonnay 2008, $40
-Wayne Gretzky Estate Series Cabernet/Merlot 2007, +128562, $21.95 -
Gold
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Southbrook Vineyards 2008 Triomphe Chardonnay, +172338, $21.95
-Flat Rock Cellars 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, $35 – Cuvee White Wine of
the Year
-Peller Estates 2008 Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie, $30
-Alvento Vio Vignier 2008, $23.95
-Coyote's Run Estate Black Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, +49775, $21.95
-Creekside Estate Broken Press Shiraz 2007, $39.95 – Gold
-Fielding Estate Syrah 2007, $44.95
-Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2007, +616466, $35
-Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut, +616441, $29.95
-Huff Estates Cuvee Peter F. Huff 2006, $39.95
-Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Merlot 2007, $24.99 - Gold
-Lailey Vineyard Brickyard Chardonnay 2008, $30
-Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2007,
$38.
-Rosewood Estates Gewurztraminer 2008, $18
-Tawse Chardonnay Musque 2009, $21.95 – Gold
-Vineland Estates Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2007, +563411, $49
-Thirty Bench 2008 Small Lot Riesling Steel Post Vineyard
-13th Street 2008 Gamay Noir
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Coyote's Run Estate Meritage 2007, +72762, $24.95
-Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Merlot 2007, $38
-Riverview Cellars Angelina's Reserve Chardonnay 2008, $19.95
-Riverview Cellars Gewurztraminer 2008, $16.95
 
The Food: the luncheon was new this year. Other years there was a Gala
Awards Dinner, first at the Royal York and then at Queen's Landing
NOTL, usually in April. So it was a packed day. At the trade show,
there were breads from the Stonemill Bakehouse and cheeses via the
Dairy Farmers of Ontario (Figaro and Celtic Blue from Glengarry, Quinte
Crest from Fifth Town, 7 year cheddar from Pine River Cheese, and Maple
Cheddar from Black River Cheese).
The Downside: the sparkling wine reception was cramped, and only one
wine was served, the Gold medal winner Hillebrand NV Trius Brut. At the
show itself, we needed more spit buckets.
The Upside: during the luncheon, a chance to hobnob with Ontario
wineries.
The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.
 
 
 

Friday, July 30, 2010

June 16, 2010: Tasting with the Rothschilds

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 16, 2010  6PM to 10PM
The Event: The 80th Anniversary of Mouton Cadet, introduced in 1930, and
repped here in Ontario by Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd.
The Venue: The Round Room at The Carlu.
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers.
The Availability/Catalogue: the dinner was an opportunity to introduce
some new wines to Ontario – Barons de Rothschild Champagne NV, in the
$90 range, Reserve Mouton Cadet Graves Blanc 2008, $16, and the Mouton
Cadet Pauillac Edition Limitee 2006, $90 for a magnum and $180 for the
double magnum.
The Quote/Background: this dinner was playing throughout Canada, in
other cities and other times. An entertaining video about the history
of Mouton Cadet was shown. Mouton Cadet is the largest selling French
brand, and it has been around here in Canada since the early fifties.
The Carlu was chosen because Jean Carlu designed the first Chateau
Mouton-Rothschild label in 1924.
The Wines: Three branches of the family got together to produce a Blanc
de Blancs Champagne through Goutte d'Or, a real winner with the
appetizers. Here was the rest of the menu --
Green and white asparagus risotto with a seared scallop and heirloom carrot reduction,
(Réserve Mouton Cadet Graves Blanc 2008, $16),  rosemary black pepper and Dijon
brushed rack of lamb with Yukon gold potato mash and season vegetable bundle
(Mouton Cadet Pauillac Edition Limitée 2006 double magnum). Apparently, what
makes this wine so special is that it has the same  blend as the first Mouton Cadet made
by Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1930 – uniquely from Pauillac fruit – 43% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and 22% Merlot.
Next came three artisanal cheeses (Château Mouton-Rothschild 1978, with the label
designed by Jean-Paul Riopelle), all hard and salty cheeses. For dessert: Ontario
strawberry short cake with vanilla bean custard (Réserve Mouton Cadet Sauternes
2007, $30 for the full bottle). Our table ordered – and got – extra cheese for the
Sauternes. We were the only table to get this favour. It was worth the re-taste.
The Downside: 56 people attended, but there were also eight empty
seats.
The Upside: a great opportunity to drink some 1978 and to get a
Rothschild-autographed bottle (empty) of the 1978 for myself and my
wife – 1978 was our anniversary year, and we were celebrating it the
next day.
The Contact Person: wcluk@pdandurand.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.
 
 
 
 
 

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

PUNCHED DRUNK; alcohol, surveillance and the LCBO, 1927-1975. -- book review

PUNCHED DRUNK; alcohol, surveillance and the LCBO, 1927-1975 (Fernwood Publishing, 2009, 222 pages, ISBN 978-1-5526-6319-6, $19.95 Canadian paper covers) is by academics Scott Thompson and Gary Genosko. It was published in late 2009, and to my knowledge, it has been ignored by the popular press, especially in Ontario. Indeed, it was not even published in Ontario. Conspiracy theories, anyone? Sure, it's an academic book, but really, how many times does a book about the LCBO get published, especially one that slags the bureaucracy that is behind its "moral" and "regulatory" nature. It's also a book about early computer technology, to wit, the punched (or IBM Hollerith) card, which arose out of the necessity of tabulating the US Census of 1890. In 1944, punched cards were used to track Permit holders and purchases, among other things. The LCBO was established in 1927 to regulate the sales of alcohol after prohibition ended. But "if the government was expected to be returned at the next and succeeding elections they had to make their law effective". The government of the day could not permit "it to be shown that revenue was being generated from the ruination of families or creating drunkards." Thus was born the Interdiction List, from 1927 to its official end in 1990. A total of 79,000 names were on this list. These people had all been sent a letter from the LCBO: their privilege to purchase liquor had been revoked. Any purchase or possession of alcohol on their part would be considered a criminal act. These people now had a new status: known drunkard. However, they did NOT know that copies of these letters were going out to every police station, bar, beer store and LCBO in their region! And their names and descriptions were being added to a province-wide circulated "drunk list". It was a secret list, and once you were on it, you couldn't get off unless you died. It's an early example of citizen surveillance by the state. By 1944, the list had moved over to the punched card. They were indeed punched drunk. In 1927, the LCBO also established the green Permit book to track individual bottle purchases. My father had one: hey, it proves that he was NOT a drunk! By 1962 the Permits were gone, and by 1975 nobody was being added to the List anymore (although the frozen List was still around in 1990). Ontario was not alone here: there were similar laws and regulations clear across Canada, in parts of the US, and in other countries. Thompson and Genosko also wrote a couple of interesting sections here detailing treatment of women and First Nations drinking. It's an academic book with some arcane scholarly references, graphs, and charts, appendix (Interdiction records regression analysis, 1953-1975), end notes, and the like. The book can be tough slogging if you are not an academic, but an index could help pull out all kinds of references for easier retrieval and reading. What a shame that there is no index, it would have been extremely useful. But there is also much more material at their website www.puncheddrunk.ca and here you can do a word search to pull out all kinds of interesting facts and documents.

Audience and level of use: historians of bureaucracy, consumer profilers, First Nations, hose who enjoy histories of alcohol, libraries.

Some interesting or unusual facts: From the LCBO Annual Report 1928-29: "Strict sobriety and clean living is not only essential to business success, but also worthwhile citizenship".

The downside to this book: there is no index, which is a shame.

The upside to this book: there is a wealth of information about interdiction and attitudes. Also, the book serves as a partial history of the LCBO and its bureaucracy

Quality/Price Rating: 95.

 

 
 

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

June 16, 2010: Tasting Ste. Michelle Wine Estates' wines

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 16, 2010   2PM to 5:30 PM
The Event: Portfolio tasting of Ste. Michelle Wines Estates, repped by
Profile Wine Group.
The Venue: Sopra Upper Lounge
The Target Audience: wine media, clients
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is private order or consignment,
with one wine coming to Vintages July 10.
The Quote/Background:
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines. Prices are retail.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2008 Chardonnay, $17.95 Vintages
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells 2008 Chardonnay, $26.95 – my fave
white of the event.
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2006 Ethos Syrah, $40.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, $21.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge 2007 Merlot, $33.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos 2006 Merlot, $49.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, $35.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, $43.95
-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2006, $18.95
-North Star Columbia Valley Merlot 2006, $54.95
-North Star Walla Walla Merlot 2006, $76.95
-Conn Creek Napa Anthology 2006, $69.95
-Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, $25.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2006 Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon,
$54.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2006 Fay Cabernet Sauvignon, $125
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2009 Dry Riesling, $18.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2007 Syrah, $21.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells 2008 Merlot, $26.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, $26.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Artist Series Meritage 2006, $64.95
-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Syrah 2007, $18.95
-Columbia Crest H3 Merlot 2007, $24.95
-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $18.95
-Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnay 2008, $16.95
-Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $24.95
-Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $36.95
-Erath Oregon Prince Hill 2006 Pinot Noir, $51.95
-Conn Creek Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $37.95
-Villa Mt. Eden Russian River 2007 Pinot Noir, $39.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2007 Arcadia Chardonnay, $59.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2008 Merlot, $41.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2006 SLV Cabernet Sauvignon, $150
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2009 Riesling, $18.95
-Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 2006 Merlot, $21.95
-Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnay 2008, $16.95
-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2008, $18.95
-Columbia Crest H3 Chardonnay 2008, $24.95
-Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot 2007, $16.95
-Columbia Crest Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $16.95
-Columbia Crest Walter Clore Red Blend 2006, $44.95
-Eroica Riesling 2008, $30.95
-Erath Oregon 2008 Pinot Gris, $23.95
-Erath Oregon 2008 Pinot Noir, $28.95
-Erath Oregon Estate Selection 2008 Pinot Noir, $49.95
-Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Uriah 2007, $67.95
-Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Frederick 2006, $67.95
-Colsolare Red Blend 2005 and 2006, $87.95
-Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve Bien Nacido 2006 Chardonnay, $24.95
-Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve Bien Nacido 2007 Pinot Noir, $34.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, $26.95
-Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley 2007 Karia Chardonnay, $32.95
 
The Food: little appetizers, bite sized (salmon, charcuterie,
mushrooms), Parmigiano Reggiano.
The Downside: for me it was a long hot day, three wine events, and
there were heavy reds here to sample.
The Upside: nice and cool, relaxed atmosphere, interesting tasters.
The Contact Person: jturco@profilewinegroup.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91.
 
 
 

Saturday, July 24, 2010

June 16, 2010: Tasting Leon Beyer wines from Alsace

The Time and Date: Wednesday June 16, 2010  2:30 – 4PM
The Event: a portfolio tasting of Leon Beyer, Alsatian wines
represented by Signature Wines & Spirits
The Venue: George Restaurant
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: a mixture of GL, Vintages, and Private
orders.
The Quote/Background: Marc Beyer, the fourth generation winemaker, was
along to pour his wines. I arrived early and was leaving to go to
another tasting just before M. Beyer arrived. I was sorry to have
missed him.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Leon Beyer Riesling "Les Ecaillers" 2004, $36.95 Jan 2011 Vintages
-Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer Comtes d'Eguisheim 2003, $48.95 private
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer 2009, $22.95 private order
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Pinot Gris 2008, $16.95 – General List. The 2009 will come in the
Fall, but we were unable to taste it.
-Riesling 2009, $19.95 private order
 
The Contact Person: marc@signaturews.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.
 
 
 

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

July 24/10: LCBO Vintages Releases Notes


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 24, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Clay Station Unoaked Viognier 2008 Lodi: off-dry aromatic pleasant,
emphasizing peaches. +25411, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Paul & Mallory Talmard Macon-Luchizy 2008: lush and full body,
slightly off-dry, great price for summer. +733956, $15.95, QPR: 90.
3. Joseph Verdier Domaine de la Colline Sauvignon Touraine 2008:
delicious sauvignon zest at this price level, flavours from front to
finish. +169656, $11.95.
4. Saint-Roch Grenache Blanc/Marsanne 2009 Vieilles Vignes Cotes du
Roussillon: harmonious, semi-aromatic, orchard fruit, believable price.
+175232, $13.95.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Jekel Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Arroyo Secco Monterey County: always a
personal fave, since the 1983 vintage, good wood this time out, but
needs more cellar time. +967893, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Familia Schroeder Saurus Merlot 2008 Patagonia: red fruit shows,
lots of body, better in the Fall. +167031, $13.95, QPR: 89.
3. St. Hallett Gamekeeper's Shiraz 2008 Barossa: juicy little devil,
twist top, 14% ABV, BBQ all the way. +166991, $14.95, QPR: 89.
4. Stellenrust Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 WO Stellbosch: heavy-heavy
tastes and textures, 15% ABV, best in winter time. +172593, $13.95,
QPR: 90.
5. The Winery of Good Hope Shiraz 2007 WO Stellenbosch: very Rhonish.
Buy it all at this price! +172577, $11.95, QPR: 92.
6. Chateau de Pena 2006 Cotes du Roussillon Villages: tasty, with depth
and complexity to its age. +178392, $13.95, QPR: 90.
7. Domaine Les Yeuses Les Epices Syrah 2007 Vins de Pays d'Oc:
value=priced, great syrah hit of pepper, smoked meat, black fruit.
+177584, $12.95, QPR: 91.
8. Boutari Naoussa 2007 Greece: bargain price for this kind of smoky
grape-oak complexity. +23218, $11.95, QPR: 90.
9. Encostas de Estremoz Vinha Longa Reserva Red 2006 Alentejo:
delicious, heavy red wine, lots of fruit and mocha tones. BBQ for sure.
+168765, $16.95, QPR: 90.
 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Lailey Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara River, +131243, $25 retail.
2. Hollick Bond Road Chardonnay 2007 Coonawarra/Padthaway, +941922,
$21.95 retail.
3. Andre & Edmond Figeat Les Chaumiennes Pouilly-Fume 2008, +171470,
$21.95.
4. Tres Sabores ?Porque No? 2007 Napa, +186551, $29.95.
5. Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Margaret River, +923565,
$29.95.
6. Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 McLaren Vale, +730374, $23.95.
7. Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2007 Cotes du Rhone,
+48884, $29.95.
8. Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2004, +149534, $38.95.
 
 

Monday, July 19, 2010

June 15, 2010: Tasting Australian Wines via a MasterClass

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 15, 2010  2:30 PM to 5:30 PM
The Event: Trade Comparative MasterClass for Wine Australia
The Venue: Rosewater Room, Rosewater Lounge
The Target Audience: sommeliers, consultants, LCBO, media
The Availability/Catalogue: not all wines were available, but most
could be obtained.
The Quote/Background: the idea was to express some measure of
Australian terroir for the Margaret River, Mornington Peninsula,
Adelaide Hills, Tasmania, Frankland River, Yarra Valley, McLaren Vale,
Coonawarra, and other districts. We were presented with four BLIND
flights of five samples each for chardonnay, shiraz/syrah, pinot noir,
and cabernet sauvignon. Two or so wines in each flight were NOT
Australian. I at least was able to identify which wines were Australian
and which were not. As to the regions? I was just guessing. The
cabernet flight was the hardest because cabernet sauvignon is the most
"international" of all the wine grapes. After the tasting there were
another dozen wines to taste, all with labels on them.
The Wines: There were 32 wines in all, 20 in the masterclass. There was
an expert panel of James Gosper, RD of Wine Australia, Kevin O'Brien
(McLaren Vale specialist), and Jennifer Vranjes, a sommelier.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2008 Adelaide Hills, $40
-Grampians Shiraz Mt. Langi Ghirnan 2006 Victoria, $75
-Katnook Odyssey [cab sauv] Coonawarra 2005, $75
-Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2008 Australia, $59.95
-Alkoomi Blackbutt 2005 Frankland River, $49.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Xanadu Chardonnay Limited Release 2008 Margaret River, $90
-Domaine La Tour-Giraud 1er cru Les Narvaux Meursault 2007, $45
-Yabby Lake Chardonnay 2006 Kooyong Vineyard Victoria, $42
-Bouchard Pere et Fils Savigny Les Beaunes 2007 1er cru, $50
-Yabby Lake Pinot Noir Mornington Hills 2007, $42
-Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 Niagara, $40
-Bay of Fires Pinot Noir Tasmania 2008, $50
-Moorooroo Shiraz Shield Estate 2005 Barossa, $120
-MacRostie Syrah Sonoma, $50
-Vaisse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Margaret River, $39
-Chateau Lagrange 2006 St-Julien, $65
-Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Margaret River, $90
-Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley, $80
-Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir 2007 Tasmania, $28.90
-Mitolo GAM Shiraz 2007 McLaren Vale, $39.75
-Mitolo Reiver Shiraz 2007 McLaren Vale, $56.95
-Evans & Tate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Margaret River, $29.95
-Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir 2009 Victoria
-Jacobs Creek St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2005, $39.95
-Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $89.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cakebread Cellars Reserve Chardonnay 2006 Napa, $85.
-Oakridge Pinot Noir 2008 Yarra Valley, $33
-Kangarilla Road Shiraz McLaren Vale 2007, $29
-Brokenwood Shiraz Hunter Valley 2007, $100
-Stella Bella Chardonnay 2008 Margaret River, $25.95
-Ferngrove Shiraz 2007 Frankland River, $19.95
-Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007, $23.95.
 
The Food: sausages, cheeses, breads, biscuits, dips, grilled veggies,
prosciutto, melon and fruits, beef on canes, smoked salmon.
The Downside: they were slow in starting, so we had to wait in a
crowded holding pen. We were also short on spittoons.
The Upside: 75 people attended, a good turnout.
The Contact Person: marnie.williamson@austrade.gov.au
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.
 
 
 

Sunday, July 18, 2010

June 10, 2010: Tasting A9 Fenedegas Group Portuguese Wines

The Time and Date: Thursday, June 10, 2010  12:30PM – 6PM
The Event: A tasting showcase for the wines of Portugal's A9 Fenedegas
Group.
The Venue: C5 at the ROM
The Target Audience: wine media for lunch, trade later in the day.
The Availability/Catalogue: there were agents for most of the wines,
but current availability is a mixture of consignment and private
orders.
The Quote/Background: John Szabo, Zoltan Szabo, and the Chef all spoke
on the foods and wines. The Fenadegas represents wine cooperatives, a
total of 27 associated companies that cover about 20% of Portuguese
production. For several years now they have been modernizing their
cellars. About 15% of their dollar value is exported.
The Wines: I did not try all the wines. Prices were sketchy at best,
but were reasonable.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Favaios Moscatel 1989 Douro, $30 FWP agency
-Favaios Moscatel 1980 Douro, $60 FWP agency
-Caves Santa Marta CSM 50 2005, $29  Vergina agency
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Arruda Dos Vinhos Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
-Favaios Favaito Moscatel 2006 Douro, $14 FWP agency
-Favaios Moscatel Reserva Douro, $19 FWP agency
-Favaios Espumante Robal Bruto NV, $15  FWP
-Caves Santa Marta Montes Pintados 2005  Vergina agency
-Caves Santa Marta Reserva 2005  Vergina agency
-Caves Vale do Rodo Port Reccua 10 Years
-Caves Vale do Rodo Port Reccua Tawny
-Adega de Pegoes Arinto Chardonnay 2009 Reserva
-Udaca Touriga Nacional Red 2007 Dao, $18   Vergina
-Udaca Irreverente Red 2005 Dao, $11 Vergina
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Arruda Dos Vinhos Lote 44 Red 2006
-Favaios Moscatel 2006 Douro, $14 FWP agency
-Favaios Moscatel 10 Years Douro, $29 FWP agency
-Caves Vale do Rodo Tellu's Moscatel
-Adega de Pegoes Arinto Chardonnay 2009
-Udaca Pora do Fontelo Red 2005 Dao, $9 Vergina
-Adro da Se Reserva Red 2006, $16.95 Vergina
 
The Food: the wines were matched with food from Chef Ted Corrado of C5
ROM. At the lunch we had appetizers of prawn terrine, blue cheese ball,
and a foie gras torchon, accompanied by an off-dry muscatel Favaios
Favaito Moscatel from the Douro. It was perfectly in tune with the
fatty apps. This was followed by BC wild halibut cheek and scallion
pancake. Veercoope Via Latina Alvarinho 2009 Vinho Verde (slightly sour
and tartish) and Adega Pegoes Arinto Chardonnay Reserve 2009 from
Setubal (a better choice for its body and slight vanilla tones). The
main course was a thick cut of Cumbrae 60 day aged ribeye with a potato
hash, green beans, and piri piri sauce of modest heat. The heavy wine
guns were an Arruda Dos Vinhos Extra Madura 2008 Lisboa (syrah, Touriga
franca, and aragonez), a Vale do Rodo Cabeca de Burro Reserva 2007
Douro with a sour cherry flavour, and a Udaca Adro da Se Reserva 2008
Dao that exhibited deep earthy mushroom tones on the finish. Dessert
was a chocolate cheesecake with rhubarb and strawberries, finished with
a chocolaty Santa Marta Port 2004. Later food for the tradeshow
included first rate cheeses at room temperature, breads, and house
charcuterie and sauces.
The Downside: it was crowded and slow at lunch, apparently from a huge
crowd of latecomers. We ran over the time.
The Upside: a chance to try some lovely muscatels in a vertical
arrangement.
The Contact Person: william.delgado@portugalglobal.pt
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.
 
 
 

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

COOKBOOKS FOR SUMMER

PIG; king of the southern table (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 424 pages,
ISBN 978-0-470-19401-0, $34.95 US hard covers) is by that irrepressible
Southern gentleman, James Villas, a long time food editor, author of
over 15 cookbooks (most dealing with the US south), and winner of two
Beard awards. Even with this list of credits, he seems to need
logrolling help from Jean Anderson and others doing Southern writing.
There are over 300 preps here, from every region and state of the US
south. Here's a chance to live high off the hog. But today's pigs are
not your father's pigs: they are smaller and leaner, and many of them
are organically and humanely raised. His main reference point is his
home state of North Carolina, but he has an engaging section on pig
basics, the primer from head to tail (but minus the squeal) plus a
glossary, a bow to country hams such as Smithfield loaded with salt,
BBQ (of course), and bulk pork sausage. Strewn throughout are bits and
pieces of remembrances, sort-of like a memoir. Through it all he covers
pork hocks, pigtails, trotters, bellies, fatback, boudin sausage,
bacon, salt pork – all the really good stuff. There are some colour
photos, but they all have a lot of biscuits, potatoes and gravies
around the finished pork dish. Contents proceed from appetizers through
soups and chowders, gumbos, stews, casseroles, chops, steaks, pies,
hashes, roasts, ham, sausage, bacon, BBQ and ribs, and variety meats.
Breads, veggies and rice complete the accompaniments. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: the meat specialist, the pork lover.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Gentleman Jack's BBQ
country-styled ribs; eggs and pig's brains; crusted pigs' ears; Cajun
pig tails with field peas; Georgia-style BBQ pork chops; shredded BBQ
pork.
The downside to this book: you can only eat so much.
The upside to this book: a good reference book, loaded with accessible
data.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 
 
4. THE BARBECUE COLLECTION; Canadian Living (Transcontinental Books,
2010, 552 pages, ISBN 978-0-9809924-9-6, $$29.95 Canadian, soft covers)
is by Andrew Chase, food editor of Homemakers and food contributing
editor to Canadian Living. His book comes from the Canadian Living Test
Kitchen, and promises "the best barbecue recipes from our kitchen to
your backyard". Of course the basics are covered, along with
brochettes, kabobs, burgers, sausages, patties, steaks, chops, ribs,
roasts, poultry, fish, seafood, and grilled pizza. There is also room
in this book for vegetables and cheese, salads and sides, sauces,
marinades and rubs. Something for everyone, beginning with a discussion
on gas or charcoal and all tools needed. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no metric table of equivalents. Many of the recipes come from
Andrew Chase himself, plus Canadian Living and Homemakers.
Audience and level of use: homemakers, those who want a complete BBQ
book.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: garlic & anchovy stuffed
pork tenderloins; Thai grilled chicken; Hoisin chicken burnished; BBQ
rabbit; Portuguese grilled sardines with potatoes and peppers; Texas
BBQ brisket; Mexican pork shoulder.
The downside to this book: the binding looks sturdy enough, but this is
a fat and heavy book, more suited to hard covers (where a cracked book
will still be intact). It needs to be kitchen tested for beyond one
season of use.
The upside to this book: the layout is pretty good, with plenty of
white space and leading. The ingredients are listed in bold, and the
font is very readable and big. There is nutritional data for each prep.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 

5. MELISSA'S EVERYDAY COOKING WITH ORGANIC PRODUCE (John Wiley & Co.,
2010, 336 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-37105-3, $29.95 US hard covers) is by
Cathy Thomas, food columnist at the Orange County Register. In 1984,
Melissa's World Variety Produce Inc was formed; it was named after the
founders' daughter. It is a leading distributor of fruits and veggies
in the US, primarily to restaurants and other trade places. This is
Thomas' second book for Melissa. She gives us overviews of the 57 most
commonly available fruits and veggies (with variations by variety),
about 225 recipes with variations and quick-prep ideas, plus the usual
basics of shopping and storage, with serving suggestions and
nutritional info. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those concerned about food sustainability,
organic food eaters.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts:  pork chops with curry-
apricot sauce; nuthouse chicken with roasted bananas; broccoli, beef,
and brown rice combo; leek and tarragon soup with melted brie cheese;
couscous with plumcots and mint.
The downside to this book: I'm uncomfortable with logos and trademarks
on my food; the beginning of the book is a bit of an infomercial, but
then it goes away.
The upside to this book: photographs show intense colour.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
6. ROSE REISMAN'S FAMILY FAVOURITES (Whitecap, 2010, 392 pages, ISBN
978-1-77050-006-8, $29.95 Canadian soft covers) is by the indefatigable
Rose Reisman, author of some 17 other cookbooks. But despite her creds
through a catering company, home delivery, involvement with Pickle
Barrel, and Breakfast for Learning, the publisher feels that she still
needs logrolling. There are 4 on the back cover, including Mark McEwan,
Michael Smith, and Bonnie Stern, and 8 more at the front, including TV
hosts and a Senator (not a hockey player)! I really don't see a need
for any of these, but then I'm only a reviewer, not a marketer. Reisman
proposes healthy meals for those who matter most. Here are 270 quick
and nutritious recipes for the family. There's a crash course in
nutrition and why it is so important, what are the best foods for
families , and how make meals a family affair – there are about 40
pages here. There is even some material on how to pack a lunch for the
kids (and yourself).The preps that follow cover all courses and all
types of food: breakfast, appetizers, salads, soups, sandwiches,
vegetable side dishes, meats and seafood, desserts, slow cooker, and
thirty pages of children's faves. Each recipe comes with some kind of
advice and tip in a sidebar (actually a midline bar?) plus the usual
per serving nutritional data. Most preps have only a few steps, and
there is plenty of white room )and large printing) to allow for visual
relief and addition of your own comments. The book is probably also
being pitched to the US market since there are only avoirdupois
measurements used in the recipes. There is, of course, a table of
metric equivalents at the back. There are coloured tabs which are
useful in locating sections of the book, but the index is also thorough
and useful.
Audience and level of use: families, those who also use Stern and
Lindsay.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chocolate and cashew cream
cheese pie; pizza quesadillas; pesto chicken; beef, bok choy and oyster
mushroom stir-fry; turkey and sautéed corn chili with white cheddar
cheese; hummus soup with feta and black olives.
The downside to this book: I have to assume that the binding will hold,
since it is a paperback and the paper is heavy. Just be careful, don't
bend back the book.
The upside to this book: this book supports Breakfast for Learning,
which helps local communities start and sustain programs that provide
breakfast, lunch and snacks to students.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

7. THE BIG SUMMER COOKBOOK; 300 fresh, flavorful recipes for those lazy
hazy days (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 337 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-11427-8,
$24.95 US soft covers) is by Jeff Cox, author of 17 books about organic
food, wine, and gardening. He was a managing editor of Organic Farming
– you can find more details at organicfoodguy.com. This is a staples
book of basic summer food preps (he even has a section on homemade
summer staples: sauces, condiments, dressings, marinades, and the
like). He has a lot of ideas on menu creation for lunches, brunches,
visits to the beach, picnics, and other outdoors activities. His food
emphases are on fresh veggies, herbs, and fruits since summer is THE
season. He encourages us to eat more of these during this season, in
addition to perhaps using meats as a garnish. Preps are marked with
icons to help identify quick-cooking recipes, ones that can be made
ahead, and ones that require no cooking at all. Informative sidebars
are liberally distributed. As well, he has some anecdotal tales to
amuse us. All courses are covered from apps to desserts, with material
on drinks, 19 menus (with page references), picks at farmers' markets,
and a listing of recipes by both icon and by summer ingredient.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those looking for a summery cookbook.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: peachberry almond galette;
pssta primavera salad; summer stone fruit tart; lobster salad; cold
summer squash soup; caponata; melon-lime salad.
The downside to this book: the orange and green colours of the typeface
grate after awhile, and the recipes may be hard to read in some cases,
depending on your eyesight.
The upside to this book: from time to time there are wine suggestions.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
8. THE COMPLETE ROOT CELLAR BOOK; building plans, uses, and 100 recipes
(Robert Rose, 2010, 264 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0243-3, $27.95 Canadian,
paper covers) is by Steve Maxwell, a home improvement author with his
own root cellar, and Jennifer MacKenzie, a professional home economist,
author and editor. Together they present 30 easy-to-follow illustrated
plans for all kinds of storage, plus 100 recipes to use the "roots".
The variety of storage includes cold rooms, storage containers,
basement cellars, stand-alone cellars, outdoor structures, cellars for
condos and townhouses, and cellars for a warmer climate. They have a
huge list of fruits and veggies, and for each there are notes on
optimal storage conditions for both outdoor and indoor storage, storage
life in a cellar, plus what to do when the food starts to deteriorate.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, and there is no table of equivalents. The
book concludes with a resources list and a bibliography.
Audience and level of use: the adventuresome, those who want to create
their own cold rooms.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beets that have gone soft
during storage are still good to eat after they are boiled. Try
sauerkraut, vegetable pot pie, sage butter parsnip soufflé, or roasted
onion and potato soup. Even a rumtopf.
The downside to this book: I think the book needs a little more hand
holding in the pest control section.
The upside to this book: there are many applications here for wine
cellars too.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
9. THE GLORIOUSLY GLUTEN-FREE COOKBOOK; spicing up life with Italian,
Asian, and Mexican recipes (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 238 pages, ISBN
978-0-470-44088-9, $19.95 US soft covers) is by Vanessa Maltin, Food &
Lifestyle Editor for Delight Gluten Free Magazine. Three chefs helped
to contribute recipes: Keith Brunell (Italian), Katie Chan (Asian), and
Edgar Steele (Mexican). Maltin completes the package with a primer on
celiac disease, living on a gluten-free diet, and some gluten-free
desserts. She also has a list of celiac disease resources and three
indexes (one for dairy-free recipes, one for vegetarian recipes, and a
general index). Pantries are suggested for each cuisine. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no metric table of equivalents. Basic sauces are covered, as well as
risottos, pasta, pizza, rice and noodles, sushi, and the like.
Audience and level of use: those who need a gluten-free diet.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: moo shu beef; rd snapper
with fresh salsa and quinoa; empanadas; grilled salmon and green curry
risotto; eggplant rollatini; calzones.
The downside to this book: the purple and green typeface colours can be
distracting.
The upside to this book: useful to have some ethnic tasty food.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
10. FOOD STYLING; the art of preparing food for the camera (John Wiley
& Sons, 2010, 398 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-08019-1, $75 US hard covers) is
by Delores Custer, a freelance food stylist since 1978. She styles in
all media and has taught courses around the world. She has major food
clients such as Budweiser, General Mills, Kraft Foods and ConAgra. More
about her can be found at delorescuster.com. The book has been highly
anticipated. There's nothing much I can say about the basic contents
beyond what the publisher tells us on the flap: the food stylist
considers, plans, and perfects every detail of the presentation of
food, whether in stages or plated as a final. Custer brings 30 years of
experience styling for advertising, magazines, books, television, and
film. Plus she has taught all of this at New York University, CIA,
Institute of Culinary Education, and others. In essence, then, this is
a definitive reference book, with detailed information on essential
tools and useful equipment, step-by-step guidance on achieving the
perfect shot, an a collection of ideas for tricks and techniques to
bring out the best of the plated food. Everything is laid out in text-
book fashion, which promotes bites of data on a couple of pages or so.
The detail goes through a history, basic primer, ethics (to enhance, to
stretch or to cheat?), editorial vs. advertising, types of media, who
you work with – all in the first 30 pages. Half of the book is about
facing the challenges of food by ingredient: fruit, veggies, herbs,
edible flowers, dairy products, breakfast foods, sandwiches, soups,
meats, grilled food, etc. She had also done a project 10 years ago
about the last fifty years of food styling, complete with archival
photos. Here, she updates it to cover 1950-2010, adding ten years and
complete with timelines. At the back, there is a glossary, a list of
resources (magazines, directories, and books: it is up-to-date as
Gourmet is not here, but Canadian and Brit mags are). Internet
resources are exhaustively detailed, as are organizations and sources
of supply.
Audience and level of use: professional photographers and food
presenters, libraries, and the curious public.
Some interesting or unusual facts: mortician's wax is a clear sticky
substance and it holds foods in place or gives height. Use petroleum
jelly (Vaseline) as a clear glue to add crumbs to or fill in gaps in
cakes and piecrusts.
The downside to this book: it is heavy, with all the photos on that
paper – 2 kilos weight (4.5 pounds)
The upside to this book: the photos, of course, are stunning.
Quality/Price Rating: as a text, it is very comprehensive, so 94.
 

11. THE BEER TRIALS; the essential guide to the world's most popular
beers (Fearless Critic Media, 2010; distr. T. Allen, 312 pages, ISBN
978-1-6081600-9-9, $14.95 US paper covers) has been pulled together by
Seamus Campbell and Robin Goldstein. Campbell writes the popular The
Daily Wort blog from Portland, OR, while Goldstein is also the co-
author of the companion book, The Wine Trials 2010. In set up, the book
is similar to Wine Trials – 250 beers are rated in brown-bag blind
tastings. Each beer has a full-page review. Primer info includes a
guide to the major beer styles, beer flavours, and beer regions of the
world. All of the participants and judges have been named. There are
indexes to both beer styles and the beers themselves.
Audience and level of use: beer lovers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Drying malts over open fires, which
for a long time was the only option in many regions, imparted a smoky 
signature that simply reflected the cooking fuel used. These beers died
out when indirect-heat kilning technology was developed.
The downside to this book: Canada only gets a couple of entries under
"Belgian Ale" and "Pale Lagers". We know that there is more here, but
the book is only concerned with what's popular in the US. The
microbrews, then, are mainly American.
The upside to this book: good detail and written descriptions.
Quality/Price Rating: 85,
 
 
 

12. MR. BOSTON SUMMER COCKTAILS (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 106 pages,
ISBN 978-0-470-18489=9, $15.95 US hard bound) comes from those
associated with the Mr. Boston series of cocktail recipe books. Here,
the editors are Anthony Giglio and Jim Meehan, both of whom worked on
the master series of Mr. Boston preps. And just in time for summer,
with 100 cocktails. Most use fresh fruit and cooler type thinning.
There are the usual primer data on cocktail preparation plus the
sidebars of trade secrets (proper muddling, finding inexpensive
substitutes). Contributors are named. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: patio and pool hounds who love cocktails.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: blackbeard punch; melon
stand; rosarita; rude sage cosmo; arch angel; blood orange; and other
named concoctions.
The downside to this book: could use more cocktails.
The upside to this book: good looking pictures.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.
 

13. FOR THE LOVE OF SALAD (Whitecap, 2010, 168 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-
007-5, $19.95 Canadian soft covers) is by Jeanelle Mitchell, author of
For the Love of Soup (2002). And just in time for summer…Here she has
99 preps for all manner of salads: leafy, veggies, grains, pasta,
beans, and types of meats. There is the usual primer data on dressings
and ingredient selections, plus tips on salad techniques. Some of the
salads are for main courses, but they can be converted to a salad
course. She's illustrated the pages with her artwork. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents. Proceeds of this book (as
well as from the previous Soup book) go to support her nephew who was
in an auto accident.
Audience and level of use: summer salad lovers and others
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fresh mushroom salad with
gremolata vinaigrette; grilled shrimp tabbouleh salad; cabbage slaw
with apples; smoked trout salad with endive; grilled tuna nicoise;
nicoise pasta salad; tex-mex grilled chicken salad with salsa dressing.
The downside to this book: I would have liked more salad preps in the
book.
The upside to this book: good layout.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
14. BAROLO (University of Nebraska Press, 2010, 227 pages, ISBN 978-0-
8032-2674-6, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Matthew Gavin Frank, a food
writer who has worked for over 15 years in the hospitality industry. He
has also been teaching writing at Grand Valley State University. His
book is published in the "At Table" series from UNP. More and more
academic presses are publishing food and wine books – academia seems
top have discovered ripe research potentials here. This is not a
scholarly work about Barolo (as in the wine), but rather it is a
memoir-travelogue done in much the same manner as the commercial
publishers do in covering Tuscany, Provence, Sonoma, Napa, and the
like. Blame it all on Peter Mayles? I'm most happy to see it here
because Frank is a good writer, perhaps a bit too vivid from time to
time, but then that's what creative non-fiction is all about. There are
only two long chapters here; most are 4 to 7 pages of vignettes. Seven
had been previously published. Through it all we find that Frank is
living in a tent, absorbing as much as possible about Piedmontese food
and wine. He ends up picking grapes (as an illegal worker, apparently)
for a vintner. He shares many stories about the provincial farms and
merchants, all agricultural (farmers markets, restaurants, butchers,
bakers). Illustrated with eight black and white photos.
Audience and level of use: armchair tourists, memoir-lovers, readers of
Italian food and culture.
The downside to this book: needs an index to retrieve names and
locations, food stuffs, etc.
The upside to this book: it is loaded with Barolo wine and Alba white
truffles.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

15. SUCCESSFUL RESTAURANT DESIGN. Third edition (Wily and Sons, 2010,
304 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-25075-4 hard covers) is one of the more
enduring books in the hospitality service industry. It was first
published in 1989, and it presents an integrated approach to restaurant
design, incorporating front- and back-of-the-house operations. The
authors are Regina S. Baraban (founding editor of Hospitality Design
magazine and teacher at various places including University of New
Hampshire) and the Joseph F. Durocher (a faculty member at UNH and her
husband who died in 2009). This latest edition has been revised and
update with new coverage of the latest technology (usually new
computers programs). Case methods were completed within the past five
years. Case studies have been used for architectural and decorative
solutions. All in-depth interviews here are brand new. The mix of
people included architects, designers, restaurateurs, and kitchen
specialists. "Sustainability" is a hot issue in the hospitality
industry right now, and it has been addressed for both front- and back-
of-the-house. At the end of the book, the authors forecast what they
think the future and changes of restaurants will be over the next
decade. There are plenty of floor plans, mostly black and white photos
(with a colour section) and some charts. Quality/Price rating: 87.
 
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Monday, July 12, 2010

For Career Changers interested in Wine

Dear Readers,

As a wine writer, foodie, and cookbook reviewer, I have the pleasure of mixing with most of the top national and Ontario region wine & spirit agencies.  Many people, from amateur enthusiasts to die-hard oenophiles, enjoy having access to fantastic products and events based on my recommendations.  I am sometimes in a position to liaise between those individuals who want to immerse themselves deeper into the glamorous lifestyle of this industry...and the professionals who are only too glad to take on an enthusiastic candidate to work with them.  In particular the smaller consignment-based wine agencies are often willing to offer part-time commissioned sales work to sommelier-certified (or in-progress) 'sub-contractors' who would like to take on a small territory or demographic to service on their behalf.  If you are thinking about crossing over, then I would be willing to refer you to some of these agencies....with the hope that both parties will benefit from the introduction.  This is NOT an offer to become a Human Resources department!  I'm quite happy to continue with all of my current actives, nor would I want it to compromise any boundaries that should exist to remain an independent critic.  Caveat aside, if there is interest in this type of introduction then let me know: I could do a one time post of some agent contact information or you could simply just send me an email via this blog.
Dean Tudor

Saturday, July 10, 2010

June 8, 2010: Tasting South African Wines

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 8, 2010  6:30 PM to 9PM.
The Event: A Wines of South Africa wine tasting
The Venue: Sub-Zero Wolf, King Street
The Target Audience: wine media.
The Availability/Catalogue: just about everything is available through
the LCBO or Consignment/Private Order. Some of the wines were part of
the special 16 or so South African wines released at Vintages on June
12.
The Quote/Background: it has been awhile since WOSA put on a wine show
in Toronto, so expectations were high.
The Wines: I think that there were 22 wines in the show, but agents
kept having surprises at their stations.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cloof Inkspot Vin Noir 2007 (pinotage, shiraz, cinsault) +173690 $14
Merchant Vintner
-Slent Farms Ayama Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (unoaked), +79517 $14.95
-Tokara White 2007 (85sb/15sem) +120394, $24.95
-Vinimark Boekenhoutskloof Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2009, +595280, $14.95
-Lammershoek Zinfandel-Syrah 2006, $21   Bokke Wines
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-DeGrendel Merlot 2007, +149849, $16.95
-Fairview Goats do Roam Red 2008, +718940, $12.95
-Graham Beck GB Chardonnay/Viognier 2009, +140608, $11.95
-Juno Arthouse Shiraz/Mourvedre 2007, +148593, $14.95
-La Motte Millennium 2007, +173799, $24
-Vinimark Boekenhoutskloof Chocolate Block 2007, +656512, $39.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Flagstone Dark Horse Shiraz 2007, +127654, $17.95
-DGB Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2008, +147993, $15.95
-Durbanville Hills Shiraz 2007, +22269, $11.95
-Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2009, +22251, $11.95
-Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2009, $15.95 arriving in 2011
-KWV Cathedral Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, +3258567, $16.95
-Leopard's Leap Family Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2009, $18.95
-Winery of Good Hope Pinot Noir 2009, +146415, $14.95
-Beyerskloof Reserve Pinotage 2006, $19.95
 
The Food: superb catering from Splendido Chef and co-owner Victor
Barry. We had service platters of beef tartare, pulled beef brisket,
foie gras, oysters, fried pancetta on a stick, and other memorable
foods.
The Downside: I was expecting a higher level of wine prices given that
the invite said "a private wine tasting featuring some of South
Africa's finest".
The Upside: the small tasting allowed for more conversations with
agents and wine producers.
The Contact Person: Laurel Keenan keenan@propellerpr.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.
 
 
 

Friday, July 9, 2010

New and Different Wines Tasted in June, 2010

 
1. Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2009 Puklus Cellars Hungary (+46508, $14.95
retail, 750 mL, Vintages): related to Muscat Blanc, from older vines,
done up in Late Harvest style, with that peachy complexity, medium-
bodied, but with lemons and pineapple acidity on the longer finish.
Floral aromatics. 13% ABV. Serve with later courses (fruity mains,
salads, cheeses, off-dry desserts).
 

2. Puklus Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2003, +980805 Vintages Reorder for
July 10, 2010 release, $23.95 for 500 mL bottle, 13% ABV. It is intense
and terrific value, with a nose suggesting honey, yeast, dried fruit
and floral tones (especially apricots and peaches). Medium sweet, long
length, racy malic acid finish, nice and brisk. Get it while you can.
 

3. Colio has unleashed a new series, a sort-of-but-not-quite
counterpart to the Girls Night Out wines. This one is the "Lake &
River" series, with a canoe on the front label. The colour of the canoe
changes with the internal blend. So far, there are about five of them,
all with uniform bottlings and labels, twist tops, and regular ABV,
such as 11.5% or 12.5%. They are quite attractive, and should at least
appeal to those who don't want to be thought of as "girls". The
appellation is straightup Ontario, but they are VQA wines. The Rose
2009 (made with villard noir, pinot noir, and vidal) has no LCBO
number, and you won't find it in stores – yet. So it must be only at
the Colio stores. Expect cherries and some bubblegum snap. The Lake &
River Moonlight White 2009 (+183095) is a mélange of chardonnay and
gewurztraminer (29.5%), melons and mangos plus aromatics dominate. The
Chardonnay 2009 (+184135) is also MVC and available. The Lake & River
River Rock Red 2008 (its name should have been Rock River Red, to avoid
the double "River" back-to-back: hey guys, run these things pass me
first, no charge) has both cabernets and merlot plus shiraz (+183103).
Expect plumminess and a light oak finish. The Cabernet Franc 2008
(+183079) has more snap and varietal character to it. Priced at an
affordable $10.95 each. The back label says "Contains Sulphites" but in
a much larger typeface than we normally see with Ontario wines.
 
4. Stoney Ridge has a new release program. Here are some highlights –
 
- Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Peninsula Pinot Grigio 2009: it may say
pinot grigio (because that is the more popular name), but the style is
pinot gris – high melon aromatics and minerals, some actual body that
you can feel, and twist top to hold it all in. Stainless steel, 12%
ABV, $17 at winery.
 
- Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Lakeshore Excellence Pinot Gris 2009: nice
full body, even more so than the misnamed grigio above, some elements
of stone and orchard fruits, zesty citrus on the finish. Excellence is
a new tier for Stoney Ridge, with wines priced about $6 higher for
higher quality and restricted terroir. 100 cases, 12.8% ABV, stainless
steel, $23 at the winery.
 
Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Peninsula Sauvignon Blanc 2009: fresh,
invigorating, zesty in an MVC field, nettles, gooseberry, herbs, cut
grass, and the like. 11.6% ABV, $17 at the winery.
 
Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Lakeshore Excellence Sauvignon Blanc 2009:
even more stressed sauvignon blanc with minerality and herbs, from
limited terroir. Gold at All Canadian Wine 2010. 100 cases, 12.8% ABV,
$23 at winery.
 
Stoney Ridge VQA Niagara Peninsula Warren Classic Chardonnay 2008: as
far as I can tell, this is the former Bench Chardonnay, which produced
one of the finest chardonnays in 1995, 2004, and other years. It has
always been a fave of mine, even being a house white for the 2004. As
the former Bench, it is indeed a Warren Classic – nutty, vanilla, some
cloves from toasted oak, creamy. Oak aged in various bottles, 13.9%,
410 cases, $15 at winery.
 
Stoney Ridge VQA 20 Mile Bench Founder's Signature Collection
Charlotte's Chardonnay 2008: named after Founder Jim Warren's wife,
this wine is a classic un-oaked chardonnay full of plump fruit, with
plenty of apples, pears, and tropical fruits. Best in summer? 13.1%
ABV, 500 cases, $15 at winery.
 
Stoney Ridge VQA 20 Mile Bench Cabernet Merlot 2008: almost a Meritage,
with both cabs – 40% cab franc, 20% cab sauvignon, and 40% merlot. Aged
in small barrels. Expect a lot of red and black currants in the fruit,
still needs time to evolve. 13.7% ABV, 245 cases, $17 at the winery.
 
Stoney Ridge VQA 20 Mile Bench Warren Classic Pinot Noir 2007: another
straightforward but affordable toasty Burgundy-like pinot noir, with
the Ontario cranberry nose and slightly sour cherry mid-palate. Plenty
of red fruit here, still needs a year or more of cellaring. 12.8% ABV,
$15 at winery.
 
 

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

July 10/10: LCBO Vintages Releases, tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 10, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnay 2008: all-purpose chard that shouts
California. 13.8% ABV. +989152, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Simonsig Sunbird Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Western Cape: herby
complexity, 13% ABV, twist top and value. +354746, $12.95, QPR: 90.
3. Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: typical MVC, good body, low
bitterish finish. +169748, $17.95, QPR: 90.
4. Domaine de la Pouvraie Vouvray 2008: off-dry on mid-palate,
lingering honeyed tones. Great price for quality chenin blanc. +169706,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot 2007 Paso Robles: wood is evident, good
concentration of fruit, soft finish. +27516, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Sheeps Back Old Vine Shiraz 2003 Barossa Valley: an older shiraz
treat from Oz, 14.3% ABV, stewed plums and rich. +165902, $19.95, QPR:
90.
3. Temple Bruer Enoomah Bore Shiraz/Cabernet 2007 South Australia: 14%
ABV, organic, vegan friendly (only bentonite used in filtering).
+165894, $15.95, QPR: 90.
4. Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier 2009 Western
Cape: delicious blend, 2/3 syrah, 14.5% ABV, comes together nicely for
BBQ. +626333, $13.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau Le Monteil D'Arsac Portraits 2006 Haut-Medoc: typical MVC,
best of the lot being released today, lay down a few. +171132, $17.95,
QPR: 90.
6. Balma Venise Beaumes de Venise 2008: another delicious blend, this
time 60% Grenache, rest syrah, yet more syrah in taste and tone. 14%
ABV. The LCBO tasting note errs in referencing Shiraz instead of Syrah.
+652206, $13.95, QPR: 90.
7. Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Rouge Costieres de Nimes 2008: yet
another delicious blend, this time 45% syrah, 25% Grenache, 15%
mourvedre, and 15% carignan. Value priced BBQ. +177097, $13.95, QPR:
90.
8. Di Majo Norante Sangiovese 2008 IGT Terra Degli Osci Molise: all of
the sangiovese tones are there, great quality at this price level.
+591974, $12.95, QPR: 90.
9. Terre di Giumara Nero D'Avola 2007 Sicily: a sure winner, given the
price. Needs more time to resolve some tart tannins. +174722, $11.95,
QPR: 89.
10. Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006: it seems like the LCBO is
working hard to find quality values. With two years in large oak, this
blend of sangiovese-cabernet-merlot should appeal because of its
typical MVC. +111641, $15, QPR: 89.
11. Bodegas La Crianza 2005 Rioja: good price for some Rioja MVC, light
enough for summer. +166538, $15.95, QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Artesa Chardonnay 2007 Carneros, +657585, $21.95 retail.
2. Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +26682, $44.95
3. Domaine des Malandes Vieilles Vignes Montmains Chablis Premier Cru
2007, +16626, $26.95.
4. Roland Tissier et Fils Sancerre 2008, +108514, $21.95.
5. Phelps Creek Becky's Cuvee Pinot Noir 2007 Columbia Gorge Oregon,
+181438, $26.95.
6. Hollick Coonawarra Red 2005, +165936, $22.95.
 
 
 

Monday, July 5, 2010

June 8, 2010: Tasting Stratus Wines from Niagara

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 8, 2010, 11 AM to 3 PM
The Event: Stratus Portfolio Tasting
The Venue: ARTCondos, Dovercourt and Sudbury
The Target Audience: wine media.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is at the winery.
The Quote/Background: Most of the wines are from 2007, with some 2008
icewines and some library wines. Winemaker J-L Groulx led the tasting,
with additional commentary by Charles Baker. J-L discussed the 2007
vintage in general, as well as modern vintages at Stratus.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Stratus Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $TBD, 2011 release
-Stratus Red 2007, $44  Vintages Winter 2010
-Stratus Chardonnay 2007, $38
-Stratus White 2007, $44 Vintages Winter 2010
-Stratus Riesling Icewine 2008, $40 200mL Vintages Fall 2010
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Stratus Merlot 2007, $42
-Stratus Cabernet Franc 2007, $38 Vintages Fall 2010
-Stratus Petit Verdot 2007, $42  2011 release
-Stratus Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $38
-Stratus Semillon Icewine 2008, $40 200 mL
-Stratus Icewine White 2008, $40 200mL 50/50 mix of Riesling and Sem
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Stratus Gamay 2007, $29
-Stratus Malbec 2007, $36
 
The Food: lunch was prepared by Jamie Kennedy Catering. The fish course
had a sampling of four Ontario white fleshed fish (perch, pickerel,
trout, whitefish): terrine, smoked, cured, and a cooked fish cake. Of
course, the Stratus White 2004 and 2006 were superb accompaniments
here, with enough body and age evolution to stand up to the smoke and
the green salad. The Cumbrae lamb course was a navarin of lamb plus a
large chop with black walnut pesto, excellently done and plated.
Stratus Red 2004 and 2006 came with it, with the 2004 being preferred
by me with its Bordeaux-like complexity and aging. Rhubarb came next,
with panna cotta and a biscuit – it went with the Stratus Red Icewine
2008 (a blend of both the cabs and syrah), as a sort of yin and yang of
sweet-tart flavours.
The Downside: it was a cavernous space, and the chairs at lunch were
too high and backless.
The Upside: the lunch was catered by Jamie Kennedy, who came and spoke
to the food.
The Contact Person: suzannejanke@stratuswines.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.
 
 
 

Sunday, July 4, 2010

June 2, 2010: Tasting Merry Edward's Wines from Sonoma

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 2, 2010
The Event: Portfolio tasting with Merry Edwards of Sonoma Valley.
The Venue: Vertical Restaurant, First Canadian Place
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: all current vintages are available through
the agent, Stem Wine Group (www.stemwinegroup.com)
The Quote/Background: Merry Edwards has been a winemaker for many
wineries over the years (she's gone through 37 vintages). Now she has
her own, with labels designed by David Lance Goines who also does
Ravenwood and Chez Panisse. She's quite deft with her pinots, using a
variety of clones (Pommard, Dijon 777, Dijon 828, 667, 1115, and her
own California selection UCD37. Complexity is introduced by the art of
blending. The Russian River Valley provides most of her fruit, and both
she and her partner Ken Coopersmith have their own estate vineyards.
Basically, Ken grows grapes, Merry makes wine. Everything is
sustainably grown, with organic components such as the compost. The
team specializes in old vines and detailed water management programs.
They make a juicy white wine, Sauvignon Blanc, from the musque variety,
with light toast barrel fermenting. This started as a dinner wine for
their parties, but it now produces 8,000 cases.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007, $79.99
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007 Coopersmith, $94.99
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007 Meredith Estate,
$94.99 – best wine of the current releases
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2003 Meredith Estate,
N/A
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2003, N/A
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2009, $59.99 –
14.1% ABV
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2007, $67.99
-Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007 Olivet Lane, $99.99
 
The Food: frisee salad and asparagus; spaghetti guitarra with veggies,
cheese, and pork; grilled duck breast with grilled veggies; biscotti
and coffees. We had a selection of pinot noirs from the tasting.
The Downside: there was a threat of rain amongst the heat.
The Upside: many chances to talk with Merry Edwards and her partner Ken
Coopersmith.
The Contact Person: robert@stemwinegroup.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.
 
 

Friday, July 2, 2010

Food and Drink Books for July 2010

THE MEDITERRANEAN DIABETES COOKBOOK (American Diabetes association,
2010; distr. McGraw-Hill Ryerson, 296 pages, ISBN 978-1-58-040312-2,
$19.95 US paper covers) is by Amy Ritolo, author of other cookbooks
such as "Arabian Delights" and "Nile Style". Here she takes a run at
Mediterranean food in general. Actually, the Med Diet is perfectly
attuned to the needs of diabetics, so for the most [part, one need go
no further. In general, Ritolo has eliminated fats and sugars while
augmenting quality proteins, whole grains, and legumes. The recipes
here are quick and easy, with a Mediterranean pantry. Main foods
embrace red tomatoes, eggplant, fresh herbs, EVOO, whole grains and
legumes, and tahini, along with fish. Med cuisine is a way of life. She
has meal planners, seasonal menus (with eight or so for each season
along with page references to the prep), and extensive notes for the
pantry. Arrangement is by course, with the obvious small plates upfront
first. Cook's notes provide cultural contexts and helpful hints, and
cross-reference the prep to other preps in the book (along with the
relevant page references). There are metric nutritional data.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents. Preps are listed by both
English title and the indigenous language (e.g., "fagioli
al'uccelletto" is stewed cannellini beans with tomatoes and sage).
There's a chapter on making your own flavour enhancers (herbes de
Provence, harissa, tahini, gremolata). The indexes are by principal
ingredient and by origin or country.
Audience and level of use: diabetics or those looking for SLO Med diet
books.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: khubz matloua (Algerian
skillet bread); pissaladiere; pizza alla Siciliana; melanzane marinate;
eggplant croquettes.
The downside to this book: no metric equivalent tables.
The upside to this book: easy to use, good layout.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
4. HAY FEVER; how chasing a dream on a Vermont farm changed my life
(John Wiley, 2010, 290 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-39833-3, $24.95 US hard
covers) is by Angela Miller, a literary agent and the owner of Consider
Bardwell Farm in Vermont. She is a multiple award winner from the
American Cheese Society. This is her story, as a memoir, of getting
away from it all in the city and moving to the rustic countryside – and
being a farmer. Ralph Gardner Jr. is the focusing writer. "Angela
Miller and her husband set their sites on a charming nineteenth-century
farm in Vermont" – and apparently took the publisher's spell-check with
them: "sites" ? They started with a herd of goats and began producing
artisanal cheeses, now found at The French Laundry and Daniel and Per
Se. It's a good book, detailing the efforts of a cheese maker.  As with
most memoirs of this sort, there is a fair bit of humour (which makes
it more readable). Additionally, there are answers to the question: how
do you run a New York-based business AND run a cheese making operation?
Secret – she's not the only person on the farm (there are at least nine
named others). It's a big operation, taking time and money. At the back
of the book, there are eight recipes. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: memoir lovers, cheese fanciers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "Just to get certified in 2004 cost
us hundreds of thousands of dollars in equipment and construction.
We've spent hundreds of thousands more since then."
The downside to this book: it is also a page turner in that there is a
larger typeface and lots of leading. This makes the book seem longer
than it is. I'd also like to see some more pictures beyond the two on
the cover.
The upside to this book: there is an index, which makes it very useful
to dig out data and facts such as on the cheese making process.
Quality/Price Rating: 83.
 

5. FOOD PRESENTATION SECRETS (Firefly Books, 2010, 176 pages, ISBN 978-
1-55407-491-4, $29.95 CAD hard covers) is by two Brits, Cara Hobday
(food journalist and cookbook author) and Jo Denbury (freelance
writer). There are over 75 sweet and savoury edible garnishing ideas
here, with recipes. Techniques, tools, ingredients and designs are all
explained in a comprehensive fashion, illustrated with step-by-step
photos on prepping and assembling the garnish. Each is graded by level
of difficulty. There are useful tips and checklists along the way, and
there are sidebars to indicate the best ways to use garnishes. Both
authors contribute a series of generic recipes and a kitchen schedule
planner. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of weight and
measure equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks who want to learn garnishing.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: potato matchsticks; caramel
dipped fruit; fruit fans; rolled green towers; vegetable bundles; tuile
shapes; cucumber lotus.
The downside to this book: I would have liked a slightly large type
font.
The upside to this book: there's a section on edible flowers, shoots
and leaves.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

6. PROFESSIONAL GARDE MANGER; a comprehensive guide to cold food
preparation (John Wiley & Sons, 2011 [sic], 780 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-
17996-3, $100US hard covers) is by Lou Sackett and Jaclyn Pestka, with
consulting author Wayne Gisslen. They are all teachers, and this is, of
course, a text book for professional chefs. Garde Manger is the art and
technique of preparing a full range of cold dishes for buffet, banquet,
and catering events. This includes hors d'oeuvre, appetizers, terrines
and pates, and charcuterie. The 375 recipes (plus 400 variations)
included in this book take into account the global cuisine of today.
Such material includes microgreens, international sandwiches, brining
ratios, fermented sausages, artisanal US cheeses, tapas tasting menus,
savoury sorbets, and the raw bar. The book is meant for both students
and practitioners. The opening sections deal with history of banquets,
the needed skills, careers, safe food handling techniques, the
flavours, colours and textures of food for the table. Cost controls and
price establishment are also important here. Recipe sections include
cold sauces, soups, salads (flavour balances), sandwiches, curing and
preserving meats and fish, cheeses (including presentations). There are
also chapters with chaud-froid, aspics, gelees, marinades, condiments,
and garnishes. Decorating and plating are also included, especially
platter layouts and design. The book is well-stitched, so it will put
up with much wear and tear. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in both metric and US avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of equivalents. There is also a bibliography and a glossary. Good
layout and detailed procedures, plus plenty of colours and use of
photos and drawings for techniques.
Audience and level of use: students and professionals, the home cook
who does a lot of cold dishes.
Some interesting or unusual facts: plating is important for cold food
since there are only visual stimuli. Purchasers of this book can get
access to a website for more recipes and FAQs.
The downside to this book: a heavy book, weight wise.
The upside to this book: most recipes are doable at home because they
are for small portions.
Quality/Price Rating: 88
 
 
 
7. SIMPLY SPECTACULAR CAKES; beautiful designs for irresistible cakes
and cookies (Clarkson Potter, 2010, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-46455-2,
$30 US hard covers) is by UK pastry chef Peggy Porschen, author of
"Pretty Party Cakes". Here she moves up a notch, from "pretty" to
"spectacular". For these she has a series of templates at the back for
monograms and positioning dowels and layouts. There's a techniques
section, tools listing, colours used, a glossary, a list of suppliers
(which amazingly enough includes someone in Richmond Hill, ON), and a
quantity guide. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
If you are stuck for anything, visit www.peggyporschen.com.
Audience and level of use: for the adventuresome home cook or anyone
who wants to project whimsy.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the book was originally
published in 2009 in the UK as "Cake Chic", as a trove of recipes for
upscale designer-crafted cakes. Porschen also throws in some cookies
and mini cakes (petit fours?). Try making ballerina pumps cookies, or
little black dress cookies, cameo cakes, cupcakes in bloom, or even
couture hatboxes.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 

8. THE SOMMELIER PREP COURSE; an introduction to the wines, beers, and
spirits of the world (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 468 pages, ISBN 978-0-
470-28318-9, $35 US soft covers) is by Michael Gibson, an MS sommelier
teaching at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Scottsdale, AZ.
This book is meant for the restaurant-sommelier/bartender or sommelier-
student, but anybody can use it. In addition to lots of wine material
(which, admittedly, can be found in many other books), there are loads
of details on beers and spirits. What also makes the book useful are
the review questions and quizzes. There is a pronouncing glossary of
1200 key terms, maps, and sections on how a sommelier is supposed to
work in a bistro (opening wines, presenting them, labels, knowledge,
etc.). The emphasis in the book is on prepping for any sommelier test,
whether at a college hospitality program or the awesome MS Court. It
can serve as a good reference work, and at this price, it is certainly
affordable. Not a colourful book: photos are all black and white,
tables and graphs fill the pages, and there are exercises everywhere.
But nit keeps the price down.
Audience and level of use: wine and sommelier students, current
sommeliers seeking refresher upgrading, hospitality schools and their
libraries.
Some interesting facts: For each type of beverage, Gibson covers the essential
history, manufacturing information, varieties available, and tasting and pairing
information. He also includes sections on service, storage, and wine list preparation for
an understanding of many aspects of beverage service.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
9.  THE WINE, BEER & SPIRITS HANDBOOK; a guide to styles and service
(John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 513 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-13884-7, $30US on
Amazon.Com, hard covers) is by Joseph DeVilla and The International
Culinary Schools at the Art Institutes, which boasts over 6,000
students. The book is quite similar to the sommelier book above, except
there is more emphasis on wines, chapters have review questions and key
terms, and there are both colour photos and a hard case binding. Yet
the price is about the same as the sommelier book. The number of pages
here is misleading since the typeface is large and there is leading and
some blank pages ahead of some chapters. This book has a "nicer" feel
than Gibson's (above) but I usually prefer data. I'd imagine that it
would be used at the ICS, for sure, since it is issued from them.
There's a glossary and a bibliography at the end.
Audience and level of use: students, especially at the ICS
Some interesting facts: The book explains the responsibilities of the
sommelier from both the service and the managerial perspectives.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 

Thursday, July 1, 2010

May 25/10: Tasting of Zuccardi Argentine wines at Kultura

The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 25, 2010  5PM – 6PM

The Event: Jose Alberto Zuccardi was in town, and hosted some sit-down and stand-up tastings today. His winery is the second-largest in Argentina. He is repped by Dionysus

The Venue: Kultura, King Street East

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: 17 of 18 wines are available in the system, either at LCBO (six on General) or at Vintages.

The Quote/Background: unfortunately, one of the wines was not available for tasting – the Santa Julia Malbec Organic 2009 – because it was not picked up at the LCBO.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Santa Julia MAGNA Cabernet Malbec Syrah, +93799, $14.95

-Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, +140855, $18.95

-Zuccardi ZETA Malbec Tempranillo 2006, +163725, $49.95

-Chateau Julia Tardio LH Torrontes (with 10% viognier) 2008, $14.95.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fuzion Alta Torrontes/Pinot Grigio 2009, +168419, $8.95

-Fuzion Shiraz Rose 2010, +122424, $7.45 end of June

-Fuzion Alta Malbec Reserva 2009, +135475, $9.95

-Fuzion Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon Organico 2009, +127456, $12.95

-Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2008, +665026, $13.95

-Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2008, +167619, $15

-Santa Julia Cabernet Sauvignon Organico, +68452, $12.95

-Santa Julia MAGNA Cabernet 2008, +166421, $14.95

 

*** Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fuzion Chenin/Chardonnay 2009, +119800, $7.45

-Fuzion Shiraz/Malbec 2009, +83188, $7.45

-Santa Julia Reserva Bonarda 2008, +141366, $13.95

-Santa Julia Extra Brut NV, +142042, $14.95

-Santa Julia Malbec Rose Organico 2009, +120279, $12.95

 

The Food: truffled beef tartare; fried tofu; rice balls; pot stickers. Zuccardi also makes olive oils, and we had a chance to sample three different ones based on three olive varieties including Manzanilla. The agency is thinking of importing these oils.

The Downside: it was very hot outside.

The Upside: just the right amount of time to taste some 16 wines.

The Contact Person: alex@dionysuswines.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91.