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Thursday, December 29, 2022

MORE WINES FROM THE SOUTHERN COTES DU RHONE...

MORE WINES FROM THE SOUTHERN COTES DU RHONE...

1.Sinard et Fils Domaine Saint Laurent Garriguette Cotes du Rhone Blanc AOC 2021, with a mix of 60%clairette, 30%roussanne, and 10%grenache blanc. And it is redolent with garrigue terpenes, of course, that aromatic low-lying scrub of pine cones and rosemary and juniper. Very fresh and inviting from the newly released 2021 vintage, complemented by pears, orchard fruit, and lemon tones. Extremely useful as an aperitif or first course wine with seafood and/or cheese. Soft finishing acidity, done up in stainless steel of course. Do not overchill. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

2.Monnier Marres Domaine Montmartel Cotes du Rhone Rouge Organic 2021, vinified with 50%grenache, 40%syrah, and 10%carignan. Typical density of southern Rhone with a preponderance of grenache tones followed by syrah flavours and garrigue terpenes: red berries, spices, anise, some burnt caramel, ripe, but a long penetrating finish, some tannic tightness in the structure. Mouthfilling. Ripe, fresh and fruity with black berry and cherry plumminess. Not filtered. Great organic wine. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Saturday, December 24, 2022

ZERO PROOF DRINKS & MORE; 100 recipes for mocktails & low-alcohol cocktails (Robert Rose, 2021, 224 p. $29.95 soft covers)

After that post-holiday glow begins to disappear, you might want to consider some low or no alcohol beverages, as concocted by Maureen Petrosky...

ZERO PROOF DRINKS & MORE; 100 recipes for mocktails & low-alcohol cocktails (Robert Rose, 2021, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0675-2, $29.95 soft covers) is by Maureen Petrosky, an entertainment and lifestyle writer currently living in Pennsylvania. These are mindful concoctions devoted to socially-distanced happy hours at home. While Spring is the official season of the mocktail, it reminds us of better times. Lo-al (low-ABV) drinks are the obvious choices for the hotter climate of summer and the harshness of winter. As she says, "Today's zero-proof cocktails are complex and nuanced, worlds away from their sugar-saturated predeccors such as the Shirley Temple. She's got the basic preps for syrups, shrubs, aperitifs, and spritzers. No real extra set-ups are needed since most kitchens/bars have the basics anyway to handle alcohol. Mocktails are best as a day drink followed by lo-al happy hours. She's also got thirty pages of punches and pitcher drinks for that high volume party -- fourteen great recipes including spicy margaritas by the pitcher, sparkling peach punch, strawberry cucumber tonic, and jalapeno and honeydew sangria. Anything that reduces our alcohol consumption is a good necessity, such as the Michelada from Mexico. Most drinks can be tweaked upwards or downwards in quantities of add-ons. And every mocktail can have as much alcohol (if you need it) as you can pour into it – simply by topping up with a bland white wine. Key bottles of lo-al include Campari, Aperol, elderflower, Pimm's No.1, Amaretto, vermouth, and sherry. This is an infinitely expandable book once you have assimilated the basics. She's got easy ways to mix up flavours. Trendy titles include Bloody M, Rosemary Pear Bellini, Grilled Pineapple Mint Mojito, Lemongrass Cilantro Highball, and Grapefruit Radler. Certainly much better than a premixed non-al pretender bottle such as a gin clone, a bourbon clone, a tequila clone, which retail for $40 or more. Just use stuff like juniper berries and rum flavouring at home. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Apart from the punches and pitchers, drinks are for one person. Quality/price rating by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing: 91.
 
Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Thursday, December 22, 2022

The Event: Milano Wine Week International Masterclass Program -- PROSECCOs

The Date and Time: Tuesday October 11, 2022  10:30AM - 4PM
The Event: Milano Wine Week International Masterclass Program
The Venue: Aria Ristorante, 25 York Street
The Target Audience: sommeliers, wine agents, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: There were two wineries involved, one with an Ontario agent – VALDO (Wine Online) and  MASSOTINA.
The Quote/Background: The first seminar was a web show presentation seminar from Italy, "From Veneto to Friuli: exploring different terroirs and wine styles" by VALDO winery (a Bolla company) with various speakers such as their chief winemaker Gianfranco Zanon and Matteo Bolla. The second seminar was a blind tasting of six MASOTTINA wines, in "Exploring Prosecco styles and terroir". It too was a web show, but with participation in Milan, London, New York and Toronto. Both seminars had simultaneous translations when needed. Cristina Mercuri with Filippo Bartolotta spoke on the wines, with emphasis on: Brut/Extra Dry is just a question of dosage and taste?
The Wines: The six Masottina Proseccos were two different samples (Brut and Extra Dry) of three wine levels: Rive di Ogliano, Contrada Granda, and Calmaggiore, all Glera. But with different terroirs

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Valdo Cuvee 1926 Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG Extra Dry  16g/L RS, 90Glera/10Chardonnay
-Valdo Elevantum Rose Prosecco DOC Brut 11.5g/L RS, 90Glera/10PinotNoir   [MY FAVE]
-Masottina Collezione RDO Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di Ogliano DOCG Levante Extra Dry Millesimato. 13.5g/L all Glera  [ANOTHER MY FAVE]
-Masottina Collezione Contrada Granda Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut 10g/L all Glera
-Masottina Collezione Contrada Granda Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry 14g/L all Glera
-Masottina Collezione Calmaggiore Prosecco DOC Treviso Brut 10g/L all Glera

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Valdo Amor Soli Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG Bio Brut 2021 10g/L RS, all Glera
-Valdo Tenuta La Maredana Prosecco DOC Brut  9g/L RS, 85Glera/15PinotNoir $21.99
-Valdo Prosecco Cuvee I Magredi Extra Dry DOC Extra Dry 15g/L RS, all Glera $18.99
-Masottina Collezione RDO Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di Ogliano DOCG Ponente Brut Millesimato. 6G/L all Glera
-Masottina Collezione Calmaggiore Prosecco DOC Treviso Extra Dry 14g/L all Glera

The Food: Aria gave is a food box: inside there was a main course of roast chicken breast with excellent quinoa pilaff, followed by goat cheese cheddar from Lindsay Ontario accompanied by gluten-free crackers. Desserts included barreti al cioccolato (chocolate cake, salted caramel mousse, chocolate shell) and biscotti with orange zest and star anise.
The Downside: it was a long day of watching a big video screen.
The Upside: a good chance to catch up with Prosecco by tasting 11 different wines.
The Contact Person: Benedetta Marassi b.marassi@ice.it
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Monday, December 19, 2022

Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers, on Sale through Jan 1. 2023

Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale  now through Sunday January 1, 2023 --
 
Fizz+224766    Chateau des Charmes Brut Methode Traditionelle  normally $25.95 now    $21.95 save $4
Fizz+48793    L.Bouillot Perle D'Aurore Rose Cremant Bourg  normally $23.95 now $21.95 save $2
Fizz+370361    Tawse Riesling Sparkling Limestone Ridge  VQA normally $21.95 now $19.95 save $2
Fizz+147504    13th Street Cuvee Rose Brut VQA normally $29.95  now     $26.95 save $3
Fizz+687582    S. Margherita Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Brut  normally $20.95    now $18.95 save $2
White+608653 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Russian  River Ranches normally $29.95 now $26.95 save $3
Red+413179    Zenato  Amarone Classico Valpolicella  normally $54.95 now $49.95 save $5
Red+149237    The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy Ripasso Style  VQA normally $19.95    now $16.95 save $3
Splurge+708982 Stag's Leap Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon     normally $89.95 now  $84.95 save $5
Splurge+996405 Stags' Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon normally  $69.95    now $64.95 save $5


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Friday, December 16, 2022

NEW WINES FROM ALSACE IN FRANCE...

NEW WINES FROM ALSACE IN FRANCE...

1.Domaine Alliman-Laugner Cremant d'Alsace Brut NV +30593 Vintages $23.95: this is an elegant aperitif wine beginning with aromatic florals on the nose and continuing with apples and lemons on the mid-palate, but with a refreshingly tart length to the finish. For what it is worth, it costs more in the USA (nationally at retail). The grape blend is pinot blanc 60%, pinot gris 10%, and riesling 30%. The lemon zest at the finish also makes it very useful as a first course wine. Under the new Alsatian rules, it is labelled "sec", or dry. 6g/L residual sugar. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


2.Wilm Riesling 2020 Reserve Alsace  +11452  Vintages Essential $19.95 [on sale until Jan 1 @ $18.45]: This is a "welcome back" wine as Alsatian wines make a comeback from being over-the-top sweet whites due to climate change. At 5g/L residual sugar it is virtually dry, noted "sec" on the back label. Its big body is citric and floral with some juniper, even some nuances of anise. Compelling with sushi, shellfish, fish, and poultry. Yum. 12.5% ABV. Twist-off closure. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

3.Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer 2020 Grand Reserve Alsace +747600 Vintages $20.95: this wine gives a big bang for the buck: rose petals, tropicality, pear puree unctuousness, with "sweetness and spice on finish". Remarkable with sushi, spicy dishes, foie gras and/or terrines. With such a great body, it should be more intense and flavourful after five more years. "Grande Reserve" indeed. With 16g/L residual sugar, this wine is at the low end of "moelleux" (12 – 45 g/L). 14% ABV. Tasted chilled over several days. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, December 13, 2022

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for DECEMBER 17, 2022 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for DECEMBER 17, 2022 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.
 
** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Month or so  ---

The Date and Time:  Wednesday October 19 2022  2P - 9P
The Event: STEM Wine Group Family of Wines Portfolio Tasting 2022 (Toronto)
The Venue: Globe and Mail Centre 17th Floor
The Target Audience: private clients, restaurants, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: everything was available by the case. There were over 250 wines, beers and spirits from 60 producers, 40 of them from Italy. Each had a page describing the attributes of their winery, and a page or so of illustrated labels with grape and vineyard designations, and prices per bottle. Over 40 suppliers sent representatives to show off their wines and guide tasters from behind their tables.
The Quote/Background: For two years in a row, Stem Wine Group has been the number one Consignment Agency in Ontario. The wine tasting  was extremely popular and got very crowded very early. I arrived at 2PM and stayed for two hours.
The Wines: I did not (could not) taste every wine. What follows are highly recommended wines arrived at by my eclectic wanderings. I did not try beers or spirits.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tombacco Pecorino IGT Terre di Chieti Abruzzo 2020 $15.99
-Villabella Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2017 $64.99
-Villabella Fracastoro Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2012 $74.99
-Zyme Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2017 $189.99
-Corteaura Franciacorta Brut DOCG $37.99
-Corteaura Franciacorta Rose DOCG $42.99
-Corteaura Franciacorta Pas Dose DOCG $46.99   [my fave fizz of the day]
-Ronco del Gelso Siet Vignis Chardonnay DOC 2020 Friuli Isonzo $32.99
-460 Casina Bric Sparkling Nebbiolo d'Alba Brut Rose $33.99
-460 Casina Bric Nebbiolo d'Alba Spumante Brut Rose Magnum Metodo Classico 1.5 litre bottle $144.99
-Gaja Rossj Bass Langhe DOP 2021 $119.99
-Gaja Barbaresco DOC 2019 $369.99
-Camarcanda Bolgheri DOP 2019 $269.99
-Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Cabernet Swauvignon 2017 Colline Teatine IGT Abruzzo $84.99
-Mandrarossa Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2020 $59.99
-Daniel Chotard Sancerre Blanc AOC 2020 $33.99
-La Manufacture "Blanchat" Chablis Grand Cru AOP 2019 $139.99
-Cassetania Cava Brut Reserva $21.99
-Citation Cornerstone Un-Oaked Chardonnay Willamette Valley OR 2017 $24.99
-Citation Pinot Noir Oregon 2006 $119.99
-Citation Chardonnay Oregon 2015 $59.99
-Precision Adorn Chardonnay California 2019 $16.99
-Grand Napa Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 $114.99
-Grand Napa Heir Apparent Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 $159.99
-Grand Napa Heir Apparent Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 $139.99
-Husic Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2018 $99.99
-Husic Palm Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2016 $139.99
-Husic Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2016 $199.99
-Bella Terra Fume Blanc Corus Vineyard VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $34.95
-Bella Terra Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Four Mile Creek 2018 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $39.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Anno Domini Diamond Vino Spumante Rosato Bio Vegan $18.99
-Anno Domini Moscato IGT Veneto Frizzante $15.99
-Delibori Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOCG 2017 $42.99
-Forchir Famiglia Bianchini Ribolla Gialla IGT 2021 $21.99
-Azienda Agricola Inama Vin Soave Classico DOC $24.99
-Ca' del Baio Autinbej Barbaresco DOCG 2019 $49.99
-Il Borro Toscana Lamelle Chardonnay IGT 2021 $34.99
-Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG 2017 $54.99
-Daniel Chotard Sancerre Rouge AOC 2020 $44.99
-La Manufacture Petit Chablis AOP 2020 $34.99
-La Manufacture "Forets" Chablis Premier Cru  AOP 2020 $59.99
-Vina Bujanda Petra de Valpiedra DO Rioja 2018 $79.99
-Cassetania Cava Gran Reserva 2018 $29.99
-Precision Calculated Chardonnay California 2021 $18.99
-Grand Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 $84.99
-Husic Palm Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017 $139.99
-Bella Terra Sparkling Brut VQA Niagara Peninsula 2020 $24.95
-Bella Terra Sauvignon Blanc Corus Vineyard VQA Niagara Peninsula 2021 $19.95
-Bella Terra Wild Ferment Riesling Four Mile Creek 2019 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $24.95

The Food: In the tasting room itself there was a scooped-out half-wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano with chunks of cheese. Outside, there were four stations: Grano Duro pasta by hand with elbow rigatoni ragu and polenta-filled twisted bows (culurgiones); Tutto Pronto with eggplant parmigiano and mozzarella sliders, truffled sauteed mushrooms on grilled crostini, and artichoke crostini with lemon ricotta; Mattachioni supplied a brilliant porchetta bun with pepperoncini; Francobello did a butternut squash risotto with peas and mushrooms. Rufino Espresso provided the coffee, while GP8 provided the bottled oxygen water.
The Downside: lots of people, lots of chatter, and the 160 page catalogue was enormously heavy to play with (but useful, of course!).
The Upside: a chance to re-connect with Stem and some of its producers who I have not seen for three years.
The Contact Person: tania@stemwinegroup.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.


** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale  now through Sunday January 1, 2023 --
 
Fizz+224766    Chateau des Charmes Brut Methode Traditionelle  normally $25.95 now    $21.95 save $4
Fizz+48793    L.Bouillot Perle D'Aurore Rose Cremant Bourg  normally $23.95 now $21.95 save $2
Fizz+370361    Tawse Riesling Sparkling Limestone Ridge  VQA normally $21.95 now $19.95 save $2
Fizz+147504    13th Street Cuvee Rose Brut VQA normally $29.95  now     $26.95 save $3
Fizz+687582    S. Margherita Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Brut  normally $20.95    now $18.95 save $2
White+608653 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Russian  River Ranches normally $29.95 now $26.95 save $3
Red+413179    Zenato  Amarone Classico Valpolicella  normally $54.95 now $49.95 save $5
Red+149237    The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy Ripasso Style  VQA normally $19.95    now $16.95 save $3
Splurge+708982 Stag's Leap Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon     normally $89.95 now  $84.95 save $5
Splurge+996405 Stags' Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon normally  $69.95    now $64.95 save $5


MAJOR THEME:   Pop, sparkle, sip: Celebration Wines

Wines Under $20  [of what I tasted,  none to recommend]
=========

Wines Over $20
=========   
W+707950    ATTEMS PINOT GRIGIO    2021    DOC Friuli $20.95  MVC/QPR: 89
R+638312    FONTANAFREDDA LANGHE NEBBIOLO    2020    Piedmont    DOC $20.95 MVC/QPR:  90
R+426833    COLCHESTER RIDGE CREW MERITAGE    2018    VQA Lake Erie North Shore     $21.95  MVC/QPR:  89
R+73817    RUTHERFORD RANCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON    2019    Napa Valley $43.95
MVC/QPR: 89
Fizz+53215    BELCANTO DI BELLUSSI SPECIAL CUVÉE EXTRA DRY PROSECCO DI VALDOBBIADENE SUPERIORE     Veneto DOCG $21.95 MVC/QPR: 89
Fizz+18133    CHARLES MIGNON CUVÉE COMTE DE MARNE BRUT GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE  $69.95 MVC/QPR: 89
Fizz+15688    BENJAMIN BRIDGE MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE BRUT SPARKLING ROSÉ        Nova Scotia    Traditional method $34.95 MVC/QPR: 89
Fizz+234161    JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE GRAND RESERVE BRUT SPARKLING    2017    Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula  $29.95  MVC/QPR: 91
Fizz+142679    13TH STREET PREMIER CUVÉE SPARKLING    2015    Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 MVC/QPR: 89



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, December 7, 2022

GHETTO GASTRO PRESENTS BLACK POWER KITCHEN (Artisan Books, 2022, 304 pages, $50 hardbound)

GHETTO GASTRO PRESENTS BLACK POWER KITCHEN (Artisan Books, 2022, 304 pages, $50 hardbound) is by Jon Gray, Pierre Serrao, and Lester Walker, assisted by Osayi Endolyn. All are chefs, cooks and food writers. In conjunction with the Bronx Ghetto Gastro (a culinary collective think tank with intensive experiences), they merge food, fashion, music, art, and design. They use food to create immersive culinary experiences incorporating storytelling and product design to advance health sovereignty in the Bronx by feeding the local community. Endolyn is a Beard-award writer whose work explores food and identity; she co-authored with Marcus Samuelsson, The Rise: black cooks and the soul of American food. The stylish, gorgeous large form photographic images are by Nayquan Shuler and Joshua Woods. It is all a mix of 75 recipes that stress crunch, heat, and umami; with interviews, photography and art re: the nature of Black food, the Black experience, and Black food inequality. Some may call this production part cookbook and part manifesto, with material on a unique viewpoint that even resulted in newly-designed cookware offered through both Williams-Sonoma and Target. Most of the food preps come directly from family roots and cultural heritage, many with modern updating to accomodate a plant-based diet. In the opening pages, they produce "the makings of a Ghetto Gastro dish". That being, in this case, Triple Cs -- seared cornbread, crab salad, and caviar. Instruction are given (in both imperial and in metric measurements), and it is all doable, although types of caviar are not discussed. This is followed by Chopped Stease (their version of a chopped cheese sandwich), Green Juice (juiced assorted greens with black cumin seed oil), Coco Loco (coconut ice), and Seafood City (smoked paprika romesco, frito misto), Strong Back Stew, Banana Leaf Fish,Tres Leches,  and others. A very compelling book, well-worth a look and well-worth reading. This is a terrific Christmas treat. Quality/price rating: 92.

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Sunday, December 4, 2022

The Event: STEM Wine Group Family of Wines Portfolio Tasting 2022 (Toronto)

The Date and Time:  Wednesday October 19 2022  2P - 9P
The Event: STEM Wine Group Family of Wines Portfolio Tasting 2022 (Toronto)
The Venue: Globe and Mail Centre 17th Floor
The Target Audience: private clients, restaurants, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: everything was available by the case. There were over 250 wines, beers and spirits from 60 producers, 40 of them from Italy. Each had a page describing the attributes of their winery, and a page or so of illustrated labels with grape and vineyard designations, and prices per bottle. Over 40 suppliers sent representatives to show off their wines and guide tasters from behind their tables.
The Quote/Background: For two years in a row, Stem Wine Group has been the number one Consignment Agency in Ontario. The wine tasting  was extremely popular and got very crowded very early. I arrived at 2PM and stayed for two hours.
The Wines: I did not (could not) taste every wine. What follows are highly recommended wines arrived at by my eclectic wanderings. I did not try beers or spirits.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tombacco Pecorino IGT Terre di Chieti Abruzzo 2020 $15.99
-Villabella Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2017 $64.99
-Villabella Fracastoro Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2012 $74.99
-Zyme Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2017 $189.99
-Corteaura Franciacorta Brut DOCG $37.99
-Corteaura Franciacorta Rose DOCG $42.99
-Corteaura Franciacorta Pas Dose DOCG $46.99   [my fave fizz of the day]
-Ronco del Gelso Siet Vignis Chardonnay DOC 2020 Friuli Isonzo $32.99
-460 Casina Bric Sparkling Nebbiolo d'Alba Brut Rose $33.99
-460 Casina Bric Nebbiolo d'Alba Spumante Brut Rose Magnum Metodo Classico 1.5 litre bottle $144.99
-Gaja Rossj Bass Langhe DOP 2021 $119.99
-Gaja Barbaresco DOC 2019 $369.99
-Camarcanda Bolgheri DOP 2019 $269.99
-Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Cabernet Swauvignon 2017 Colline Teatine IGT Abruzzo $84.99
-Mandrarossa Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2020 $59.99
-Daniel Chotard Sancerre Blanc AOC 2020 $33.99
-La Manufacture "Blanchat" Chablis Grand Cru AOP 2019 $139.99
-Cassetania Cava Brut Reserva $21.99
-Citation Cornerstone Un-Oaked Chardonnay Willamette Valley OR 2017 $24.99
-Citation Pinot Noir Oregon 2006 $119.99
-Citation Chardonnay Oregon 2015 $59.99
-Precision Adorn Chardonnay California 2019 $16.99
-Grand Napa Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 $114.99
-Grand Napa Heir Apparent Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 $159.99
-Grand Napa Heir Apparent Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 $139.99
-Husic Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2018 $99.99
-Husic Palm Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2016 $139.99
-Husic Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2016 $199.99
-Bella Terra Fume Blanc Corus Vineyard VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $34.95
-Bella Terra Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Four Mile Creek 2018 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $39.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Anno Domini Diamond Vino Spumante Rosato Bio Vegan $18.99
-Anno Domini Moscato IGT Veneto Frizzante $15.99
-Delibori Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOCG 2017 $42.99
-Forchir Famiglia Bianchini Ribolla Gialla IGT 2021 $21.99
-Azienda Agricola Inama Vin Soave Classico DOC $24.99
-Ca' del Baio Autinbej Barbaresco DOCG 2019 $49.99
-Il Borro Toscana Lamelle Chardonnay IGT 2021 $34.99
-Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG 2017 $54.99
-Daniel Chotard Sancerre Rouge AOC 2020 $44.99
-La Manufacture Petit Chablis AOP 2020 $34.99
-La Manufacture "Forets" Chablis Premier Cru  AOP 2020 $59.99
-Vina Bujanda Petra de Valpiedra DO Rioja 2018 $79.99
-Cassetania Cava Gran Reserva 2018 $29.99
-Precision Calculated Chardonnay California 2021 $18.99
-Grand Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 $84.99
-Husic Palm Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017 $139.99
-Bella Terra Sparkling Brut VQA Niagara Peninsula 2020 $24.95
-Bella Terra Sauvignon Blanc Corus Vineyard VQA Niagara Peninsula 2021 $19.95
-Bella Terra Wild Ferment Riesling Four Mile Creek 2019 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $24.95


The Food: In the tasting room itself there was a scooped-out half-wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano with chunks of cheese. Outside, there were four stations: Grano Duro pasta by hand with elbow rigatoni ragu and polenta-filled twisted bows (culurgiones); Tutto Pronto with eggplant parmigiano and mozzarella sliders, truffled sauteed mushrooms on grilled crostini, and artichoke crostini with lemon ricotta; Mattachioni supplied a brilliant porchetta bun with pepperoncini; Francobello did a butternut squash risotto with peas and mushrooms. Rufino Espresso provided the coffee, while GP8 provided the bottled oxygen water.
The Downside: lots of people, lots of chatter, and the 160 page catalogue was enormously heavy to play with (but useful, of course!).
The Upside: a chance to re-connect with Stem and some of its producers who I have not seen for three years.
The Contact Person: tania@stemwinegroup.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.




Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Thursday, December 1, 2022

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for DEC 3, 2022 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for DEC 3,  2022 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.
 
** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past While  ---

NEW RELEASES FROM CHATEAU DES CHARMES, NOTL VQA:

1.Chateau des Charmes Rose Sparkling Traditional Method 2017 VQA NOTL winery and online $34.95: [I last sampled the 2016 vintage at same price] here half chardonnay and half pinot noir (blanc des noirs) from vines planted as early as 1991, very pretty colour from the pinot dosage, reminiscent of strawberry blush, 2 years lees contact and then re-fermented in the bottle. Full, rich, ripe yeasty biscuit complexity. Citric finish, best with food such as appetizers. Strawb fruit dominates. Recently disgorged. 10 g/L residual sugar. 12.5% ABV. Stunning. 250 cases available. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

2.Chateau des Charmes Brut Sparkling Methode Traditionelle NV Niagara-On-The-Lake VQA, +224766, $25.95: this Brut is a mix of about half each of chardonnay and pinot noir from vines planted as early as 1991 (and from at least four vineyards), exhibiting apple and orchard tones with citrus and toast. Some creamy texture. All wine mostly from the same vintage, and "Recently Hand Disgorged" after a year on lees, 12% ABV. Base wine for bubblies from both grapes is the same: just the skin contact varies. 9g/L residual sugar. 2877 cases. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

3.Chateau des Charmes Riesling "Old Vines" 2016 Estate Bottled VQA Niagara-On-The-Lake, $18.95: made from vines largely planted in 1978, so it is now a very mature vineyard. 12.5% ABV. Succulent, but off-dry Alsatian character (citric tones, spices), with now almost six years of aging. A beaut with spicy or higher acidic foods – lush and plush. Lots of orchard fruit character and some minerality. Best with Asiatic food. Twist top. 8.1 gm/L. 928 cases. Quality/price rating 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

4.Chateau des Charmes Gewurztraminer 2021 St.David's Bench VQA, $21.95 winery and online: from older vines (26 years) in the St. David's Bench vineyards, done up in stainless steel. Alsatian in style, with concentrated fruit, off-dry on the mid-palate, spicy with a tad of bitter on the finish, great with Asiatic foods or any spicy foods. Or wonderful as a sipper/aperitif by the deck/patio/pool/terrace/balcony. Cork finish, and it should improve over the next five years. 4.6 gm/L residual sugar. 13.1% ABV. 318 cases produced. Quality/price rating 91 points by Dean Tudor.

5.Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2017 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard, VQA St.David's Bench,
$44.95 at winery and online: Quite a powerful wine from the 60-acre vineyard, lots of stylish Burgundian forest floor (mushrooms, earth) to complement the red berry fruit. It was last produced in 2016. Currently, this vintage is 16 months in new French oak barrels. Still needs some time, maybe two more years. 13.5% ABV. It will also show better with food such as Asian salmon preps or veal or lamb. Cork closure. Residual sugar is 1.3g/L. 13.5% ABV. 1234 cases produced. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

6.Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir "Droit" 2020 St. David's Bench Vineyard, VQA St. David's Bench, $21.95 [winery and online]: medium-full-bodied, suggestive of Beaujolais grand cru wines such as Morgon or Moulin a Vent in the Droit's capacity for aging. Dark cherry-berry flavours dominate, but there is added spicing and even some nuances of earthiness and eucalyptus, although the wine is unoaked. "Gamey gamay" is probably the phrase! Cork finish. Good with BBQ, cheese, or something substantial, but some tannic structure is present to carry through a whole meal. Chateau des Charmes is the only winery in the world using this particular gamay clone. 1g/L residual sugar. 12.5% ABV. Earlier vintages were gold medal winners in Canada. 492 cases produced. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.



The Date and Time: Tuesday October 11, 2022  10:30AM - 4PM
The Event: Milano Wine Week International Masterclass Program
The Venue: Aria Ristorante, 25 York Street
The Target Audience: sommeliers, wine agents, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: There were two wineries involved, each with Ontario agents –- VALDO (Wine Online) and FIAMBERTI (Cottonwood Agency).
The Quote/Background: The first seminar was a web show presentation seminar from Italy, "From Veneto to Friuli: exploring different terroirs and wine styles" by VALDO winery (a Bolla company) with various speakers such as their chief winemaker Gianfranco Zanon and Matteo Bolla. They introduced the region's I Magredi winery's still wines. Both seminars had simultaneous translations when needed. Fiamberti's Buttafuoco range uses mainly the indigenous grapes Croatina (about 2/3), followed by Barbera, Uva Rare and Ughetta di Canneto. Giulio Flamberti spoke to us via the web show, and answered all questions.

The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fiamberti Caristoro Metodo Classico DOCG Rose Brut NV 3g/L  [pinot noir] $40
-Fiamberti Il Cavaliere Pinot Nero Vinificato In Bianco 2021 [frizzante white wine] $32
-Fiamberti Buttafuoco Storico Vigna Solenga DOC 2017 Oltrepo Pavese $88  
-I Magredi Divinotello Trevenezie IGT 2017  [Bordeaux blended style]

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fiamberti Buttafuoco Storico Vigna Sacca del Prete DOC 2017 Oltrepo Pavese $84  
-Fiamberti Buttafuoco Storico Il Cacciatore DOC 2020 Oltrepo Pavese $44
-I Magredi Cabernet Sauvignon Friuli DOC Grave 2021
-I Magredi Pinot Grigio Friuli DOC Grave 2021  $16.99

The Food: Aria gave is a food box: inside there was a main course of roast chicken breast with excellent quinoa pilaff, followed by goat cheese cheddar from Lindsay Ontario accompanied by gluten-free crackers. Desserts included barreti al cioccolato (chocolate cake, salted caramel mousse, chocolate shell) and biscotti with orange zest and star anise.
The Downside: it was a long day of watching a big video screen.
The Upside: we tasted some unusual wines from two wineries in two different wine regions.
The Contact Person: Benedetta Marassi b.marassi@ice.it
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.


** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale  now through Sunday January 1, 2023 --
 
Fizz+224766    Chateau des Charmes Brut Methode Traditionelle  normally $25.95 now    $21.95 save $4
Fizz+48793    L.Bouillot Perle D'Aurore Rose Cremant Bourg  normally $23.95 now $21.95 save $2
Fizz+370361    Tawse Riesling Sparkling Limestone Ridge  VQA normally $21.95 now $19.95 save $2
Fizz+147504    13th Street Cuvee Rose Brut VQA normally $29.95  now     $26.95 save $3
Fizz+687582    S. Margherita Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Brut  normally $20.95    now $18.95 save $2
White+608653 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Russian  River Ranches normally $29.95 now $26.95 save $3
Red+413179    Zenato  Amarone Classico Valpolicella  normally $54.95 now $49.95 save $5
Red+149237    The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy Ripasso Style  VQA normally $19.95    now $16.95 save $3
Splurge+708982 Stag's Leap Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon     normally $89.95 now  $84.95 save $5
Splurge+996405 Stags' Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon normally  $69.95    now $64.95 save $5

MAJOR THEME:   Gifts to celebrate

Wines Under $20
=========
W+28583    CASAS DEL BOSQUE LA CANTERA BOTANIC SERIES SAUVIGNON BLANC    2021    Sustainable, Valle de Casablanca $19.95  MVC/QPR: 89
R+523001    CAVE SPRING ESTATE GROWN CABERNET FRANC    2020    VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment        $19.95  MVC/QPR: 90

Wines Over $20
=========
W+424507    WESTCOTT ESTATE CHARDONNAY    2020    VQA Niagara Escarpment        $29.95  MVC/QPR: 90
W+172338    SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE ORGANIC CHARDONNAY    2018    Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula    $24.95   MVC/QPR: 89
R+28362    TENUTE SILVO NARDI 43° IGT Toscana Rosso $21.95  MVC/QPR: 89
R+427500    WESTCOTT ESTATE PINOT NOIR    2018    VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula    $31.95  MVC/QPR: 90
Fizz+310334    FEATHERSTONE JOY PREMIUM CUVÉE BRUT SPARKLING    2016    Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario        $34.95  MVC/QPR: 89
Fizz+51565    LOUIS BOUILLOT PERLE D'OR BRUT CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE    2012    Traditional method, AC, Burgundy, France        $26.95  MVC/QPR: 89

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures