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Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Sept 4/10 LCBO Vintages Release - some tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 4, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Sumac Ridge Black Sage Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 VQA Okanagan: nicely
aged and developed well, citric finish plus smoke. +393710, $14.95,
QPR: 89.
2. Geyser Peak Chardonnay 2008 Alexander Valley: 13.5% ABV, nice as
sipper or with food, lots of wood activity and smoke and vanilla,
finishing with fruit. +343475, $16.95, QPR: 90.
3. Veramonte Reserva Chardonnay 2008 Casablanca Valley: creamy, luxury,
best young (i.e., now), 13.5% sipper. +494443, $14.95, QPR: 89.
4. Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2008 South Africa: elegant blend of
toast, vanilla, and fruit – to a lingering finish. +172601, $15.95,
QPR: 90.
5. Kuhlmann-Platz Hunawihr Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: 13.5%, very good
MVC, hits all the highlights for gewurztraminer, but less dry than
others. +169474, $17.95, QPR: 90.
6. Luc Pirlet Les Barriques Viognier Reserve 2008 Vins de Pays d'Oc:
delicious floral wine, sip mostly but also with first course, buy it at
this price. +177675, $11.95, QPR: 91.
7. Perrin & Fils Reserve Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2009: light floral
aromatics, useful as aperitif, sip or food, patio? +177675, $14.95,
QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Big Yellow Cab Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Mendocino: powerful fruit
components, chocolate and coffee tones, smoke, vanilla, with some age
behind it. +35014, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Alamos Syrah 2008 Mendoza: s strong syrah product, still needs time,
may repay cellaring. +183848, $13.95, QPR: 89.
3. Carta Vieja Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Lonocomilla
Chile: good complexity of Cabernet Sauvignon, MVC of black currant and
spices. +169888, $13.95, QPR: 90
4. Mount Langri Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2005 Victoria: good aging
shows with fruit now five years old, twist top, 14% ABV. +719575,
$16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Cuvee 2007: basic and pleasant everyday
sipper, 14% ABV. LCBO pre-release notes say it has Cabernet Franc but
this grape variety was not on the label. +684357, $15.95, QPR: 89.
6. Les Vignerons de la Suzienne Cuve du Comte 2007 Southern Rhone:
terrific syrah flavours at a bargain price, easily worth three times as
much. 13.5% ABV, Please don't buy all of this wine until Monday, so I
can have Saturday to load up for myself… +178822, $15.95, QPR: 94.
7. Beronia Elaboracion Especial Tempranillo 2008 Rioja: smoky wine, not
for the faint of heart, a keeper for the cellar but ready now. +723643,
$15.95, QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 VQA PEC, +88955,
$29.95 retail.
2. Bouchard Pere et Fils Domaine Les Clous Meursault 2007, +661322,
$44.95.
3. F. Tinel-Blondelet L'Arret Buffatte Pouilly-Fume 2008, +169730,
$21.95.
4. Bouchard Pere & Fils Domaine Teurons Beaune 1er Cru 2007, +169797,
$49.95.
5. Domaine de Haut des Terres Blanches Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007,
+177618, $36.95
6. Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 2006, +942607,
$54.95.
7. Antiche Terre Venete Amarone Della Valpolicella 2007, +177733,
$32.95.
 
 
 

Monday, August 30, 2010

REVIEW: The History of Michigan Wines

 

THE HISTORY OF MICHIGAN WINES; 150 years of winemaking along the Great Lakes (History Press, 2010, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-59629-947-4, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Lorri Hathaway and Sharon Kegerreis, authors of 2007's From the Vine: exploring Michigan wineries. This book is kind of a pre-quel in that it covers the beginnings of the wine industry in Michigan, from about the mid-1800s to today. The authors look at a basic history of the region's early settlers, some terroir, and vitis labrusca.  Disaster struck early: rot came in 1883, temperance came along a few years later, and then Michigan was one of the earliest states to impose prohibition. So essentially the book covers 1930s to 2010. What's interesting to us in Ontario is the fact that there were several wineries operating in the Windsor border area after 1927, producing wine for Michigan consumption. These were bootleg operations across the Detroit River. Some of them moved over to Michigan after 1932 to establish the first real modern Michigan wineries. Hathaway and Kegerreis have taken plenty of colour and black/white photos of people, labels, and vineyards. Like many local histories, the account is somewhat episodic – which may be useful since there is no index. If you know the time period of key actions or names, then you can safely dip into a relevant chapter. Still, an index is always to be preferred

The book concludes with a long bibliography and a listing of 73 current wineries (with their websites) sorted by the four AVAs and other regions. There are no tasting notes or other points of evaluation.

Audience and level of use: for the wine history buff or Michigan local history reader.

Some interesting or unusual facts: the first vineyard for commercial winemaking was planted in 1863 in the Monroe region

The downside to this book: there is no index, which is a shame since it can be difficult to retrieve information and names of people.

The upside to this book: a good contribution to information about the wines of North America.

Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 
 
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Saturday, August 28, 2010

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH: August

 SIMPLY IN SEASON; 12 months of wine country cooking (Whitecap Books,
2010, 266 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-951-3, $39.95 Canadian, soft covers)
is by Tony de Luca, a Niagara-on-the-Lake chef-owner of two
restaurants, Old Winery and de Luca's Wine Country. His first book for
Whitecap (Recipes from Wine Company) was a popular book. Here he relies
on local growers in Niagara to keep him in food season after season.
This SLO (seasonal, local, organic) book is arranged month-by-month.
The first dozen or so pages highlight his life via his short memoirs,
and his cooking philosophy. As is typical with most Whitecap Books, the
recipes have a large typeface, white space, clear notes, and bold
listings for their ingredients. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there are no
tables of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: wine lovers, Canadian food cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for February, there is a
glazed pan seared foie gras; goat cheese and winter mushroom phyllo
turnovers; stuffed pinwheel of winter flounder; fennel seed and juniper
crusted venison loin; rice pudding with caramelized pears.
The downside to this book: the book may be too heavy for its binding,
only time will tell.
The upside to this book: gorgeous photography.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 

Friday, August 27, 2010

Wine Writers' Circle Tasting of July 2, 2010

 The Time and Date: Friday, July 2, 2010  10:30 AM to 2PM

The Event: monthly tasting of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada.

The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square.

The Target Audience: members of the Circle, a large turnout.

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are here now, some will be available through Vintages later in the summer.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Skuttlebutt   Sauvignon Semillon  2008 12.5% alc  LCBO  #157867   $14.95   Margaret River

-Vineland Estates Fume Blanc  2007  Reserve  VQA  12.% alc  winery only  price tbd   Niagara Escarpment

-Vineland Estates Chardonnay  2007  Reserve   VQA13% alc    winery only  Niagara Escarpment

-Calamus Estate Riesling Reserve  2007  VQA  12% alc   $15.95  #180877  Vintag Aug 21/10   Niagara Peninsula

-Franciscan  Chardonnay   2007  13.5% alc  #496125  $24.95  Vintages Napa Valley

-Stratus Chardonnay  2007  VQA    14% alc   $38  winery only  Niagara-on-the-Lake

-Henry of Pelham Riesling  2007  Speck Family Reserve  VQA   12% alc   $30  Short Hills Bench

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vineland Estates Chenin Blanc  2008  VQA  11.% alc   winery only   Niagara Peninsula

-Calamus Estate White  2008  VQA 12.3% alc  $12.20  Avail winery only   Niagara Peninsula

-Calamus Estate Riesling  2008  Semi Sweet  VQA  12.3% alc    Winery only  $16.20  Niagara Peninsula

 -Stoney Ridge Pinot Grigio  2009 VQA  12% alc   $17.20   Niagara Peninsula

-Jackson Triggs Gewurztraminer  2008  VQA  Delaine Vineyard  13.3% alc   #989350  $22.95  Vintages  Niagara Peninsula

 -Kapuka   Sauvignon Blanc   2009  #163576  Vintages   $14.95   New Zealand

-Henry of Pelham Chardonnay  2007  VQA   Speck Family Reserve    14% alc  $35  Short Hills Bench

-Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot  2007  VQA  Speck Family Reserve  14% alc  $50  Short Hills Bench

 

*** Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

SeaGlass  Sauvignon Blanc  2009  13.% alc   #173575  July release   $13.95   Santa Barbara

-Vineland Estates Sauvignon Blanc Elevation  2007 VQA    winery only  $25.00  Niagara Escarpment

-Vineland Estates Chardonnay  2007  Elevation  VQA  12.5% alc   #164459    Vintages  $25.00

-Vineland Estates Riesling  2007  Elevation VQA  8% alc   #139121  Vintages  $25.00  Niagara Escarpment

-Vineland Estates Dry Riesling  2008  VQA  10% alc   #167551   $13.95  Niagara Peninsula

-Vineland Estates St Urban Riesling  2008  VQA  8.7% alc  # 38117  $20.00  Niagara Peninsula

-Calamus EstateChardonnay  2008  VQA  Unoaked   12.8% alc  $14.20  Avail winery  Niagara Peninsula

-Stoney Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2009  Kasper Vineyard  VQA  11.% alc  $17.2011.6% alc  Niagara Peninsula

-Stoney Ridge Pinot Noir  2007  Warren Classic  VQA  12.5% alc    $15.20 Twenty Mile Bench

-Legends Diva   Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc  2008  VQA  12.5% alc  Lincoln Lakeshore

-Beckett's Flat   Five Stones  Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon  2009  Kosher 13% alc  Margaret River

-Montlouis  Chenin  Sec  2007  12% alc  Montlouis sur Loire Controlee

-Colio Moonlight White 2009  Lake & River Series  VQA  11.8% alc   #183095  Gen List $10.96  

-Open   Sauvignon Blanc  2009  VQA    11.9% alc   #178681  Gen List  $11.95  Niagara Pen

-Jackson Triggs Sauvignon Blanc  2008  VQA  Proprietors' Reserve  13% alc   #58438  $13.95 Gen List  Niagara Peninsula

-Jackson Triggs   White Meritage  2008  VQA  Proprietors' Grand Reserve  12.4% alc  #109371  $19.95 Vintages  Niagara Peninsula

-Inniskillin  Pinot Gris  2008  VQA  Winemaker's Series  Barrel Aged  12% alc  Vintages  Niagara

-Inniskillin  Chardonnay  2008  Three Vineyards  Winemaker's Series  VQA  13.5% alc  #105379   $16.95  Vintages  Niagara Peninsula

-Cumulus   Block 50  Chardonnay   2007   13.5% alc  Vintages Sept 2010  $13.95   Central Ranges, Australia

-Pillitteri Estate Gewurztaminer Riesling  Fusion  2009  VQA  11.5% alc  #349126   $12.95  Niagara-on-the-Lake

-Stratus Riesling 2008  VQA  11% alc  $29  Vintages  Niagara Peninsula

-Henry of Pelham     Pinot Noir Reserve  2007  VQA   13.5% alc  Niagara Peninsula

-Torres  Sangre de Toro  2007    13.5% alc   Catalunya Spain

-Coronas   Tempranillo  2006  13.5% alc   Catalunya

-Loron & Fils   Montvallon  Bourgogne Blanc    Chardonnay  2008   12.5% alc   #167155  Gen List $13.95

-Yering  Station  Little Yering  Chardonnay 2008   13% alc  #145318    Gen List $14.95   Australia

-Leopard's Leap  Family Collection Sauvignon Blanc  2009  13.5% alc  #146886  Vintages $18.95  Western Cape  S. Africa

-Kacaba Riesling Reserve 2009   VQA   12% alc    $17.95  Winery only  Niagara Escarpment

-Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir  2007  VQA Speck Family Reserve   13.5% alc $40  Short Hills Bench 

 The Food: none

The Contact Person:  sdarby@rogers.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.

 
 
 

Monday, August 23, 2010

Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Tasting at Cava, July 6, 2010

The Time and Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010  5PM to 7PM

The Event: a tasting with Felipe Gonzalez-Gordon of Gonzalez-Byass sherry house.

The Venue: Cava Restaurant

The Target Audience: media and others

The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines are here at Vintages.

The Quote/Background: I barely had a chance to talk with Felipe – it was crowded, hot and noisy, and we both had to shout at each other.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Tio Pepe Fino, $15.95, +242669 Vintages – always a fave, sharp and fresh

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alfonso Oloroso Seco, $14.95, +954776 Vintages – lovely bone dry finish over a caramel topping.

 

*** Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Nutty Solera Oloroso, $12.95, +35204 Vintages – basic sherry

 

The Food: tapas such as stuffed mushroom caps, skewered meats, deep fried olives, paella-stuffed mussels, and more.

The Downside: it was hot, crowded, and noisy. Plus, I never got to have one piece of each tapas since it was hard for the one waiter to get through the crowd.

The Upside: in these circumstances, I really enjoyed my Uncle's drink.

The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandpirits.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 83.

 

 
 

Friday, August 20, 2010

Wine Book of the Month: August, 2010

 GRAPES & WINES; a comprehensive guide to varieties and flavours
(Sterling Epicure, 2010, 320 pages, ISBN
978-1-4027-7730-1, $31.95 Canadian, paper covers) is yet another
accessible wine book by Oz Clarke. It first came out in 2001, with a
revised edition in 2003. The paperback appearance, revised yet again,
this time for 2010, has been an annual since 2007. It has had a minor
title change (dropping the words "Oz Clarke's" from the title, as well
the entire former subtitle, "the definitive guide to the world's great
grapes and the wines they make"). Seventeen "Classic" grapes are
covered in depth, with material on tradition, innovation, viticulture
and vinification methods, plus contrasting wine styles in a global
context. Actually, he should also add Pinot Gris to this basic list, to
make it an even 18. He's too tied into the UK: pinot gris (or pinot
grigio) has swept North America for a few years now. Clarke also has
details about 15 more "major" grapes, a sort of a second tier, which
does include Pinot Gris. The dictionary arrangement covers 300 grapes
over 260 pages. The basics of grape growing and wines are in the first
32 pages. The classic grape book is of course Jancis
Robinson's "Guide to Wine Grapes" published in 1996 by Oxford
University Press and now out-of-print (some of it has been absorbed
into her Oxford Companion). Clarke's book is an adequate replacement,
but strangely, he doesn't even mention Robinson's book in his
bibliography. Not only that but also the bibliography is out-of-date,
with the latest entry being 2000 – it has not been updated since the
book was first produced in 2001. Not everything is perfect here. He has
no entry for the white varietal "Auxerrois" (which should be news to
Ontario's Chateau des Charmes winery). It is widely planted in Alsace
and other places in north-east France. The red varietal of the same
name is mentioned, but not the white strain. Yet it is the white
varietal which is referred to in other parts of the book (I looked them
up). The distinction between "Shiraz" and "Syrah" needs closer
definition. On the label, the former term is used for the fruit-forward
Australian-style drink, while "Syrah" is normally used for the Euro-
style or Rhone food wine. For example, Stellenzicht in South Africa
makes both syrah and shiraz in these two different styles, and it is
thus labeled. At the back, Clarke has an index of grape names and their
synonyms, as well as a glossary of technical terms. But no
pronunciation guides. Just like Robinson, Clarke has a European wine
decoder that lists which grapes go into which wine. But unlike
Robinson, he doesn't cover Croatian wines. The book should prove useful
to wine lovers who also like to approach their wines by grape variety,
to see what's available in different countries or regions. It might
have been useful to have some production figures or vintages with a
year mentioned, but maybe the publisher thought that that might date
the book. Maturity guides have been added for some of the wines made in
the 2000s, but the vintage years on the label reproductions in the book
come largely from the 1990s.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "Vernaccia wines are found all over
Italy, but to try and relate them to each other is often a waste of
time".
The downside to this book: There is just a brief mention of terroir and
yeasts. And the bibliography shows no sign of updating.
The upside to this book: lots of small but useful colour photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 88, if you don't have a copy of this book
already; otherwise, pass and wait for another revision a few years down
the road.
 
 

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Aug. 21/10 LCBO Vintages Release -- some tasting notes


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 21, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calamus Estate Reserve Riesling 2007 VQA Niagara: tasty, Alsatian
style of complexity, good body and length. +180877, $15.95, QPR: 90.
2. Featherstone Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009 VQA Niagara: zesty and
leafy, tasty body on mid-palate, long finish, typical MVC for sauvignon
blanc. +89011,$16.95, QPR: 89.
3. Folie a Deux Menage a Trois White 2008 California: basic aromatic
freshness, fruitiness (moscato), scrumptious patio wine. +665166,
$17.95, QPR: 90.
4. Angove Lon Row Chardonnay 2008 South Australia: fruit and oak in
balance, twist top, 13.5% ABV. +641779, $13.95, QPR: 89.
5. Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough: delicious racy Kiwi
complexity, affordable, chill well. +981670, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6. Sparr Tradition Pinot Gris 2008 Alsace: great body and aromatics,
orchard fruit, lovely engaging finish, +176925, $17.95, QPR: 90.
7. Domaine Le Verger Chablis 2008: great price and value for a MVC
Chablis of minerals, citrus, long length. +181289, $18.95, QPR: 89.
8. Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt RK Riesling 2008 QbA Mosel: a quality
Moselle at 10.5% ABV, twist top, perfect for late summer. +733295,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
9. M. Codex Salterio Albarino 2009 Rias Baixas Spain: good floral
components on the nose, lots of body and with finishing acid. Value
priced. +2774, $15.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Folie a Deux Menage a Trois Red 2008 California: soft and fruity,
oak and spices on finish, patio red. +665158, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Howling Moon Old Vine Zinfandel 2007 Lodi: dryer, berryish, good
spicing, much of the finish lingers, 13.5% ABV. +57356, $18.95, QPR: 90
3. Madrigal Merlot 2005 Napa: excellent price for a Napa MVC merlot
with a dry finish. Dried fruits on mid-palate. +184838, $18.95, QPR:
90.
4. Los Rosale Chapel Vineyard Reserva Carmenere 2008 Rapel: very ripe
tones but also some dried underbrush. +169490, $12.95, QPR: 89.
5. Vina Chocalan Syrah Reserva 2007 Maipo: very appealing syrah style,
14% ABV, +38513, $14.95, QPR: 89.
6. Ben Glaetzer Heartland Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 South Australia:
juicy, very appealing cabernet with lots of spices and black fruit.
+58099, $19.95, QPR: 90.
7. Chateau Auzias Petits Messieurs Cabardes 2008: very soft, supple,
North American appeal, patio red, character on the mid-palate. +177592,
$14.95, QPR: 89.
8. Le Ferme du Mont Le Ponnant Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007: loaded
with Rhone character and depth. +171371, $17.95, QPR: 89.
9. Cave de Tain L'Hermitage Queen of Syrah Cool Climate Syrah 2007 Vin
de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes: excellent syrah complexity, medium
body but good length, Affordable. +155283, $11.95, QPR: 90.
10. Burgo Viejo Crianza 2005 Rioja: it's almost impossible to find an
older oaked Rioja for under $15. But here it is. Enjoy the value.
+168815, $13.95, QPR: 91.
11. Honoro Vera Monastrell 2008 Jumilla: delicious fresh plums and
berries. +167684, $11.95, QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Flat Rock Cellars The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2008 VQA Twenty Mile
Bench, +1552, $24.95 retail.
2. Robert Mondavi Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +258186, $28.95 retail.
3. Balthasar Ress Riesling Spatlese 1997 QmP Hatenheim, +160762,
$21.95.
4. Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir 2007 Willamette, +127043, $29.95.
5. Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir 2009 Victoria, +178897, $21.95 retail.
6. Two Hands Brave Faces Shiraz/Grenache/Mataro 2008 Barossa, +660035,
$24.95.
7. Chateau Garderose 2006 Lalande de Pomerol,+176941, $24.95
8. Rendola Brunello di Montalcino 2004, +181412, $36.95
 
 
 

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH!

 
1. GOOD BETTER BEST WINES; a no-nonsense guide to popular wines (Alpha
Books, 2010; distr. Penguin, 238 pages, ISBN 978-1-59257-977-8, $12.95
US, soft covers) is by Carolyn Evans Hammond, wine writer and
sommelier. Her first book was "1000 Best Wine Secrets". Here, she has
produced the latest guide to best-selling wines in the USA, but with an
engaging format. She has categorized the wines by grape variety such as
Merlot or Pinot Grigio or a blend. Then she further subdivides by
nationally distributed price ranges such as $5 to $7.99, $8 to $10.99,
and $11 to $15. Then her last category is to pick wines in each
reference area (such as a Chardonnay for $10.99) and give us her notes
on these wines: the good, better and best of the title. Her cut off was
$15, except for dessert wines. In Canada, this would be $20 to $25. And
of course, you know that American stores widely discount best-selling
wines as loss-leaders, and give case discounts. None of this happens in
Canada, so we'll just have to play along. Quite a few of the wines are
available in Canada, since these are (after all) "best-selling" popular
wines. But since most Americans drink domestic wines, there are (for
Canada) a disproportionate number of US wines. There are no Canadian
wines, which (if you included Cellared in Canada products) would lead
to Ms. Hammond's next book, on Canadian wines, "The Good, the Bad and
the Ugly". There is the usual thumbnail primer on wine basics, on why
we drink what we drink, notes on the varieties, many sidebars of
interesting information, and some choices for bargain wines and party
wines. "Parties" include wedding reception (an invaluable guide here
for the upcoming June brides), dinner party, cocktail party, BBQ,
beach/cottage/pool, garden party, and banquets. Each wine is
illustrated with a small black and white pix of the bottle and label
for shelf recognition.
Audience and level of use: regular wine drinkers looking for
suggestions on trading up or trying new wines. Its size makes it very
convenient to take with you into a wine store, hoping to spot a sale.
Some interesting or unusual facts: The quality of everyday wines has
never been better.
The downside to this book: lacks an index, so there is no easy way to
find out what she thinks about a wine. Also, a quick check through an
index would make it easier to correlate with a wine that is on sale.
The upside to this book: a great way to pick up basic wine knowledge
without breaking the bank. It's "back to basics", "learn the rules
before you break the rules". Have a clear understanding of what wines
you yourself like at this moment before moving on.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.
 
 

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK (Aug 2010)...

 
...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books
actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally,
there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for
items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to
the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American,
they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes
there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not.
I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made
easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic
ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase
"mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a
book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that
some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem
to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for
the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most
books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as
gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound,
usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of
food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other
celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
 
10. GIADA AT HOME (Clarkson Potter, 2010, 239 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-
45101-9, $35 US hard covers) is by Giada De Laurentiis, possibly the
hardest working food TV celebrity, with many shows on the Food Network
since 2002, and contributing to the Today show. She's also cookbook
author; this is at least her fifth book. And she needs (and gets) NO
logrolling. This time she tackles "family recipes" from Italy and
California, although the California ones are more like Cal-Ital preps.
So it becomes all the same thing. Her book's title comes from her
latest TV show, so we can expect those same preps in the FESLOP manner
(fast, easy, seasonal, local, and organic if possible). All courses are
covered, from appetizers to desserts, with a long chapter on brunches.
Try cheesy baked faro, white chocolate-dipped almond and lemon
biscotti, sweet and savoury bread pudding, red snapper with fava bean
puree, ricotta with vanilla-sugar croutons and berry syrup.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents. There are also 47 pix of
Giada and her family within the book, and another 5 on the covers. I
deem this excessive, even if Giada is a star. Quality/Price rating: 83.
 
 
 

11. THE ULTIMATE STUDENT COOKBOOK (Firefly, 2010, 160 pages, ISBN 978-
1-55407-602-1, $14.95 CAD paper covers) is by Tiffany Goodall, a
personality-celebrity chef in the UK (where the book was first
published by Quadrille. This is a nifty book about basics and budget.
The author had lived away from home on a limited budget while she was a
culinary arts student, so she shows college students how to get by with
fresh and healthy food every day. Of course, she had a leg up since she
was actually studying cooking. There are 100 preps here, requiring only
20 kitchen items, fewer than 20 on-hand staples, plus regularly
available ingredients from the grocery store. There's some health
information, hygiene, storage, and use of leftovers. Substitutions and
adaptations are also included. What I really like about the book are
the step-by-step photos with captions and balloons that show the prep
and presentation of each dish. But on the other hand, some recipes need
refiguring: the saltiness of soy sauce will NOT disappear with
evaporation, and baking 2 inch potatoes for 1.5 to 2 hours at 400
degrees will get you blackened (not crisp) potatoes. So: what do
students like? How about mac and cheese, pizza, roast chicken, fajitas,
stir fries, sandwiches? Preparations have their ingredients listed in
both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/Price rating: 87.
 
 
 

12. HOME COOKING WITH TRISHA YEARWOOD; stories and recipes to share
with family and friends (Clarkson Potter, 2010, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-
307-46523-8, $29.99 US hard covers) is by country entertainer Trisha
Yearwood. This is her second cookbook, and this time it is a collection
of family-style Southern food. There's also more self-involvement with
family photos, memoir-style anecdotes of the family, and some kitchen
lore. She's assisted here by sister and daughter Gwen Yearwood and Beth
Yearwood Bernard. The basic layout is by course selection, from
breakfast through apps to soups, salads, meats, poultry, sides and
breads, and oodles of desserts. There are lots of photos too. Typical
dishes include spice cake with lemon sauce, fresh apple cake, cabbage
casserole, okra and tomatoes, chicken pizza, BBQ pork ribs, and cabbage
rolls. Preparations have their ingredients listed in US avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
The book has large print and lots of leading and white space, but the
list of ingredients is given in light pastel colours, as if to foil
photocopies. One for her fans. Quality/Price rating: 81.
 
 
 
13. SAM THE COOKING GUY; awesome recipes & kitchen shortcuts (Wiley,
2010, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-46794-7, $19.95 US paper covers) is by
Sam Zien, and eleven-time Emmy Award winner and host of various
American cable channel cooking shows. He has a website at
www.thecookingguy.com.
The book's subject heading says it all: "quick and easy cooking". So
what's different here, different from the scores of other books? Well,
it is put together with a terrific layout and has discreet use of
colour. The typeface is adequate and there are actually useful tips. In
many ways, this seems to be a "guy" book. It relies on things on hand
(you'll need a pantry here) primarily frozen meats such as steaks, and
sauces, and jars of veggies such as roasted red peppers. There's
nothing wrong with these in moderation. But they keep it all quick and
easy, and could best be used when you absolutely have to cook for a
bunch of people. The unexpected guests. For example, sauces (and most
of the preps) are based on Asiatic, Latin, or Mediterranean flavours.
Because that's actually all there is in guy-land. Specific sections
deal with breakfast, soups, sandwiches, things to eat with your
fingers, chicken, meat and potatoes, and pasta and desserts.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents. Pretty basic foods such as
chicken and bacon pot pie, chicken-egg salad, antipasto sandwich,
pesto-bean-shrimp soup, red pepper and blue cheese bruschetta, meatball
stroganoff, and the like. Worth a look. Quality/Price rating: 82.
 
 

Monday, August 9, 2010

June 30, 2010: Tasting Entry Level wines from Bod. Castano, Yecla Spain.

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 30, 2010  5:30 PM to 7:30 PM
The Event: a tasting of the entry level wines of Bodegas Castano, from
Yecla Spain, represented by John Hanna and Sons.
The Venue: Toritos, Kensington Market
The Target Audience: wine media.
The Availability/Catalogue: most everything is at the LCBO, some will
be along later.
The Quote/Background: Daniel Castano Munroz, exports, was here to talk
to everybody. It was a nice cocktail party feel, with a constant stream
of tapas to accompany the five wines. Overall, this serious winemaker
(who makes some pricier products) makes very clean and adaptable wines
at the "cheap and cheerful" entry level.
 
The Wines: The star grape for the company is the Monastrell, which is
mourvedre in France. The south Spain climate and terroir is similar to
south France, so the wine comes across as comparable, ripening late
with fresh acidity.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Casona de Castano Monastrell Rose 2009, +175760, $8.95 – remarkable
-Bodegas Castano Hecula 2008, +718999 V Essentials, $13.95 – 60-80 year
old vines
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Casona G-S-M 2009, $8.85, soon to the LCBO – a solid contender to
the Australian Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre blend, part of the Rhone
complex of flavours. Older vines in the La Casona G-S-M.
-Castano Monastrell 2008 Ecologica, $14.95, 14.5% ABV – an organic wine
coming to Vintages this Fall.
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
- La Casona de Castano Monastrell 2007, +175760, $8.95 – 40-60 year old
vines
 
The Food: tapas all the way, plus bread and water. Potato tortilla,
Serrano ham on a house-baked non-stale bread stick, chourico, Manchego
cheese, shrimp, and more. We noshed and tried to compare wines against
the foods.
The Downside: no spit buckets and there were no wineglasses…
The Upside: …but there were tumblers, and that was how we were to drink
the stuff.
The Contact Person: andrewhanna@winetrader.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.
 
 
 

Saturday, August 7, 2010

June 7, 2010: Tasting Hendry Ranch wines from Napa

The Time and Date: Monday June 7 2010, 3PM to 4:30 PM 
The Event: Hendry Ranch, Napa Valley, tasting, repped by Artisanal Wine
Imports.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street
The Target Audience: wine media, private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: Most wines were available for immediate
delivery through the Consignment Program.
The Quote/Background: Located in the south western part of the Napa,
the vineyards have been farmed by the Hendry family since 1939 (vines
had been first planted here since about 1870). The production had been
sold to other labels such as Opus One and Mondavi, but over the past
few years, the family has marketed their own brand of wines. The
vineyards have been divided into 50 blocks, ensuring scrupulous record-
taking and blending.
The Wines:  We began with a rinse-bouche of Champagne! Prices are
retail.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hendry Primitivo 2007 Napa, $46.95  UCD clone
-Hendry Zinfandel Block 7 & 22 2007 Napa, $45.95
-Hendry HRW Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa, $34.95  second label
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mailly Champagne Grand Cru Brut Reserve NV, $58.95 75PN/25Ch
-Hendry Pinot Noir 2007 Napa, $49.95
-Hendry Pinot Gris 2008 Napa, $31.95
-Hendry Unoaked Chardonnay 2007, $49.95
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hendry Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa, $78.95
 
The Food: breads, almonds, cashews.
The Contact Person: bob@artisanalwineimports.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87.
 
 
 
 
 

June 29, 2010: APVSA Tasting in Toronto

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 29, 2010   10 AM to 6 PM
The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des
vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep
the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there are often sales staff
available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also
visits New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary and Montreal.
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were no better than the wines
that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be
any price advantages, either. These 60 or so wines could be made
available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few
have been picked up for sale in Ontario. Here were my faves, regardless
of price (all prices are ex-cellar Euros):
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Jean-Loron Chenas Les Jean-Loron 2007, 4.50 Euros
-Domaine du Bicheron Gaec Rousset Macon Peronne 2008, 3.80 E – Gold at
World Chardonnay competition.
-Caves Cantalric Jean de Meyrac Bouquet de Garrigues 2009 V de P
Cathare
-Domaine du Mas Rous Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 VDP des Cotes Catalanes,
4.85 E
-Chateau Bellefontaine Vieille Vignes 2009 Costieres de Nimes, 3.74 E
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Jean-Loron Chenas Les Gandelins 2008, 4.50 Euros
-Clos du Porteau Sauvignon Blanc Le Courlis 2008, 2.84 E
-Domaine de la Garenne Sancerre Rose 2009, 6.10 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Blanc Tradition Chardonnay 2009, 3.30 E
-Domaine Jacky et Pascal Preys Silex Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc Vieilles
Vignes 2008, 3.90 E
-Domaine de la Chaise Touraine Blanc Sauvignon 2009, 2.85 E
-Domaine de la Renne Touraine Sauvignon 2009, 2.65 E
-Domaine de la Renne Chardonnay 2009 Vins de Pays du Val de Loire,2.50E
-Champagne Vollereaux Cuvee Marguerite Blanc 2004, 18.90 E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Santenay Le Chainey Blanc 2008, 7.80 E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Santenay 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau La
Fussiere Dessus Rouge 2008, 8.30 E
-Caves Cantalric Corbieres Rouge Chateau de Comigne Fut 2006, 3.50 E
-Domaine de Malavieille Coteaux du Languedoc Saint Saturnin Les Mas de
Bertrand 2005, 4 E
-Domaine de Clarmon Cuvee Hommage 2008 Minervois, 7.13 E
-Chateau Bellefontaine 2009 Costieres de Nimes, 2.98 E
-Vignobles du Soleil Caze Blanque Cabernet Sauvignon VDO d'Oc 2009,
1.80E
-Domaine Les Girard du Boucou Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2007, 12.50 E -
organic
-Anne Hugues Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Les Saumades 2008, 8.95 E
-Anne Hugues Vaucluse 2006 VDP 2006, 1.75 E
-Anne Hugues Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Les Saintes Vierges 2008, 12.50E
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine de la Garenne Sancerre Blanc 2009, 6.20 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Tressaillier des Gravieres 2009, 3.70 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Rouge Tradition 2009, 3.10 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Seduction Rouge 2009, 4.50 E
-Domaine Jacky et Pascal Preys Touraine Rouge Cuvee Plaisir des Anges
2006, 2.90 E
-Domaine Jacky et Pascal Preys Touraine Sauvignon les pillotieres 2008,
2.70 E
-Domaine Gilles Blanchet Pouilly Fume 2009, 5 E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc 2008, 5E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Rouge 2008, 5E
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Bourgogne Maranges Rouge 2007, 6.80 E
-Chateau d'Estoublon Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays des Alpilles, 11.90 E
-Caves Cantalric Syrah Rouge Rendez-Vous 2007 VDP d'Oc, 2.25 E
-Domaine de Malavieille Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasse du Larzac
Alliance Rouge 2007, 4 E
-Domaine de Malavieille Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasse du Larzac Permien
Rouge 2007, 3 E
-Domaine du Mas Rous Cotes du Roussillon Rouge 2004 de chene, 4.58 E
-Domaine du Mas Rous Cotes du Roussillon Tradition Rouge 2008, 3.58 E
-Domaine de Clarmon Cuvee Clara 2008 Minervois, 4.02 E
 
The Food: none.
The Downside: selection is eclectic and bottles arrive haphazardly.
Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told this until we
got there.
The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.
There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84.
 
 
 

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Aug 7/10: LCBO Vintages Release notes


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 7, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Gris 2008 VQA Four Mile Creek
Niagara: good citrus tones, some orchard fruit on the finish,
reasonable body, definite "gris" style. +116582, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Round Hill Chardonnay 2008 California: decent balanced chardonnay
with some wood complexity, 13% ABV, and well-priced. Gold medalist.
+311415, $14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Tanunda Creek Loan Semillon 2006 Barossa Valley: very good MVC for
the Barossa style, could be aged more, twist top – and organic!
+108092, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Baron de Hoen Reserve Particuliere Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace:
delicious Gewurz, spot on the style from Alsace, with a forgivable
price tag and excellent body. +169763, $15.95, QPR: 91.
5. Cantine Manimurci Impeto Greco di Tufo 2009 Campania: another great
summery wine, with minerals and citrus tones, unbeatable value.
+180752, $13.95, QPR: 90.
6. Caruso & Minini Terre di Giumara Inzolia 2009 IGT Sicilia: lovely
crisp finish, orchard fruit, great price. +180760, $11.95, QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Dos 2 Estacas Malbec 2008 Mendoza: basic, dryish MVC Malbec at 14%
ABV, with two years bottle aging after oaking in US and French wood.
+169433, $12.95, QPR: 89.
2. Fam. Schroeder Saurus Patagonia Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2008: very
Euro in style, dry long finish. +61986, $15.95, QPR: 89.
3. Santa Laura Laura Hartwig Reserva Merlot 2007 Colchagua: full juicy
flavours, delivers value. +640946, $13.95, QPR: 89.
4. Boxhead Shiraz 2008 South Australia: quality fruit bomb sipper, 14%
ABV. +166967, $15.95, QPR: 89.
5. Richard Hamilton Gumprs' Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale: complex but heavy
shiraz, black fruit and mocha. +600122, $18.95, QPR: 89.
6. Water Wheel Memsie 2008 Bendigo Victoria: North American in style
but emphasizes syrah over shiraz, good balance and fruit. +656637,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
7. Domaine de Poujo Madiran 2007: terrific finish and depth, many black
fruits and underbrush. +719674, $14.95, QPR: 89.
8. Apollonio Copertino Rosso 2004 Puglia: dynamite complexity right
through to the finish of dried fruit. Six months oak, 14% ABV, 70% aged
Negroamaro. +23226, $16.95, QPR: 90.
9. Francesco Minini Terre Avare Primitivo di Manduria 2008 Puglia: soft
and fruity, like a California zinfandel, but less expensive. +180307,
$12.95, QPR: 89.
10. Francesco Minini Corte dei Mori Nero d'Avola 2008 IGT Sicilia: rich
and full-bodied in that North American style through taste and fruit.
+180281, $13.95, QPR: 89.
11. Castello di Querceto Chianti 2008: a steal for a basic, well-made
chianti, 12% ABV. +164798, $12.95, QPR: 89.
12. Senorio de Sarria Crianza 2006 Navarra: very North American in
style – jammy, open, fruity, some wood. +167668, $12.95, QPR: 89.
13. Senorio de Unuela Edicion Limitada Reserva 2001 Rioja: lots of
coconut tones from wood aging, but decently priced older Rioja. Scoop
it up! +172536, $16.95, QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Beringer Chardonnay 2008 Napa, +84988, $24.95 retail.
2. Chappellet Chardonnay 2008 Napa, +186577, $44.95 retail.
3. Tamdem Sangiacomo Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma, +173344, $24.95
4. Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Sonoma,
+944843, $34.95
5. Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, +993279,
$39.95.
6. Farina LePezze Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006, +171587,
$31.95.
 
 
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Monday, August 2, 2010

June 22, 2010: Tasting the 2008s of Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2010  11 AM to 4PM
The Event: the annual vintage tasting of Bouchard Pere & Fils and
William Fevre, both represented by Woodman Wines & Spirits. This year,
it was the 2008 harvest.
The Venue: RCYC at St. George
The Target Audience: clients, writers.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, some are here, at
the LCBO, or by private order.
The Quote/Background: there were more wines from previous vintages
here, the major year being 2007. And it was good to see how that
vintage was progressing to great drinkability.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cote de Beaune Villages 2006, $25 – great price
-Beaune du Chateau 1er Cru 2007, $39 - value
-Gevrey Chambertin 2007, $45
-Chambertin Clos de Beze 2008, $214
-Clos Vougeot 2007, $169
-Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2008, $79
-Corton Charlemagne 2008, $149
-William Fevre Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru 2008, $56
-William Fevre Les Clos Grand Cru 2008, $93
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Beaune 1er Cru Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus 2008, $109
-Beaune 1er Cru Marconnets, 2008, $48
-Beaune 1er Cru Teurons 2007, $50
-Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens 2008, $79
-Le Corton 2007, $102
-Chambolle Musigny 2008, $53
-Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots 2008, $119
-Meursault Les Clous 2007, $45
-Beaune 1er Cru Saint-Landry Blanc 2008, $53
-Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2008, $82
-Chevalier Montrachet 2008, $255
-William Fevre Bougros Cote Bougerots Grand Cru 2008, $42
-William Fevre Kes Preuses Grand Cru 2008, $81
-Villa Ponciago Fleurie Cuvee des Hauts du Py 2009, $27
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Bourgogne Coteaux des Moines 2008, $24  retail.
-Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 2008, $75
-Le Corton 2008, $102
-Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles 2008, $89
-Bourgogne La Vignee Chardonnay 2008, $20
-William Fevre Vaillons 1er Cru 2008, $42
 
The Food: cheese platter, breads, water.
The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.
 

 
 
 

Sunday, August 1, 2010

June 22, 2010: Lunch with Kilikanoon Wines, Australia

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 12PM to 2PM
The Event: lunch with Nathan Waks, proprietor and managing director of
Kilikanoon Wines, which has 400 hectares of terroirs in Barossa, Eden,
McLaren, Clare (their original property), and others.
The Venue: Far Niente
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: the wines we tasted were mostly available
through Vintages.
The Quote/Background: Kilikanoon produces a half million bottles of
wines, from entry level (Killerman's Run) through a Regional Series, a
single varietal series and a Reserve line. Nathan Waks spoke to all of
the wines, and answered an amazing number of queries on a wide variety
of topics, including marketing and other wineries.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kilikanoon Covenant Shiraz 2007 Clare Valley, $45, +674747 for the2004
-Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz 2007 Clare Valley, $75, +926816 for the 2005
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kilikanoon Barrel Fermented Semillon 2009, $24.95 – private order
-Kilikanoon Parable Shiraz 2007 McLaren Vale, $39.95, +59824 for 2006
-Kilikanoon Testament Shiraz 2007 Barossa Valley, $39.95, +50047 for
2006
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Killerman's Run Shiraz South Australia 2007, $19.95,+925453 VEssential
 
The Food: we had a lot of different foods, thankfully in small samples
to taste with all the shiraz wines. The salsify soup went well with the
Semillon, and a trio of pork belly, beef satay, and boar ravioli went
up against three shirazes (and we cross-compared). The Oracle Shiraz
appeared with the main, an enormous quantity of roasted rack of lamb.
The Killerman showed fine against the mimolette and fleur de maquis
cheeses.
The Downside: we were late in starting, mainly because some writers
were not punctual.
The Upside: a chance to compare different terroirs for the Aussie
shiraz.
The Contact Person: anorris@diamondwines.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.