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Monday, February 27, 2023

KOREAN CUISINE; an illustrated guide (Firefly Books, 2022, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0389-9 $19.95 paper covers


KOREAN CUISINE; an illustrated guide (Firefly Books, 2022, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0389-9 $19.95 CAD paperbound) is by Luna Kyung, who lives in Paris and has written books about Korean food. Ahnji is a Korean illustrator and graphic designer who also lives in France, and is a co-author. Their book was originally published in French, in France, in 2021 – this is the English translation. There is a lot going on here; in addition to recipes, there are memoir materials, anecdotes, histories and background. For the food itself, there is in-depth coverage on techniques, utensils, and Korean ingredients. It's a colourful book since all of the illustrations are watercolours of food, utensils, finished plates, meal composition, tableware, staples, condiments and sauces. These are everyday dishes. But just one thought: there is no pork neck bone soup recipe. I've noticed this omission in many recent Korean cookbooks, no doubt because pork neck bones are difficult to obtain, even from a butcher. The closest "bone" to find is either hock trotter or spare rib bone, and even these can be hard to find, especially (for the latter) in grilling season. I mention all of this because I regard pork neck bone soup (Gamjatang), along with Bipimbap, to be a quintessential Korean dish. You can easily check out the ingredients through the Internet. It is worth trying to do because of its bounty of flavours, even if you have to use spare ribs where is no real difference in flavour, although neck fans may question that assumption. Kyung's book is full of vast quantities of everyday dishes, fermented foods, noodles, party dishes, temple food, street food, lucky foods, and even North Korean specialties. This is an extremely useful book. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.




Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Saturday, February 25, 2023

The cost of wine, beer, and spirits is rising across Canada.

The cost of wine, beer, and spirits is rising across Canada. Consumers and producers weigh in on the tax hike as we track down the cheapest way to buy booze on a budget.
Canadian liquor tax hike of 6.3% coming in April

As of April 1, 2023, a federal excise tax will raise the cost of alcohol across Canada by 6.3%. The tax was introduced in 2017 by then finance minister Bill Morneau. It's colloquially called the alcohol escalator tax, as it automatically adjusts every April 1, based on the Consumer Price Index.

When inflation hangs out around the 3% benchmark targeted by the Bank of Canada, the alcohol tax isn't particularly noteworthy. But throw the white-hot inflation rates of 2021 and 2022 into the mix, and you've got a tax hike akin to sprinkling salt in an open wound.


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Friday, February 24, 2023

The Event: A tasting of Conegliano Valdobbiadene: the heart of Prosecco Superiore DOCG in late November 2022

The Date and Time: Monday November 21, 2022   10:30A to noon
The Event: A tasting of Conegliano Valdobbiadene: the heart of Prosecco Superiore DOCG
The Venue: SIPS, Maud Street
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers (over two dozen in all)
The Availability/Catalogue: this was a masterclass of higher-end Prosecco wines. These wines were generally not yet available for sale in Ontario, except as specified.
The Quote/Background: Jennifer Huether, MS, was our speaker today, and she ran over the basics of what this Italian region was all about. The hills of CV are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All of the wine made in this DOCG is white; 93% of the wine made here is sparkling. Two sub-regions produce the best Prosecco – Rive and Cartizze. The Martinotti Method (a variation of Charmat) is prescibed. While not every farmed area is organic, glyphosate has been totally banned and growers are moving toward a green sustainability. The overall top quality Proseccos come from these two regions of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, both located between Venice and the Dolomites...and these are at the DOCG level. 105 million bottles are produced every year. Each bottle should have wine that is 85% Glera grape at a minimum, with 15% maximum allowable for other grapes such as pinot nero, chardonnay, and any of some four local varieties.
Pronunciation was basically straightforward:  val-doh-bee-ahhh-deh-ne
The Wines: There were 9 wines, and in general I really enjoyed the dryer ones. Each wine had about 11.5% ABV.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-L'Antica Quercia Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Nature Sui Lieviti "A" 2020  [organic wine, on lees, bone dry at 0g/L residual sugar]
-Frassinelli Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut Rive di Santa Maria di Feletto 2021 [1.5g/L residual sugar, modest finish]
-Canevel Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Biologico Campofalco Monfalcon Vineyard 2021 [90% glera, 10% verdiso, extended Charmat storage]
-Bottega Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry "Il Vino dei Poeti" [16-18 g/L RS, Noble Estates agency]
-Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry [16g/L RS, finishes drier, savoury]

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sommariva Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut [9g/L RS, jes peachy with some lemon peel]
-Ruggeri Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Quartese [9g/L RS]
-Perlage Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry Col di Manza [16g/L RS]
-Marsuret Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry Il Soller [16g/L RS]

The Food: water biscuits and water
The Contact Person:  lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Friday, February 17, 2023

Black-owned wineries around the world (a continuing list: please add to it)


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, February 15, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for FEBRUARY 18, 2023 release.

    
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for FEBRUARY 18, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.
 
After that post-holiday glow begins to disappear, you might want to consider some low- or no-alcohol beverages, as concocted by Maureen Petrosky...

ZERO PROOF DRINKS & MORE; 100 recipes for mocktails & low-alcohol cocktails (Robert Rose, 2021, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0675-2, $29.95 soft covers) is by Maureen Petrosky, an entertainment and lifestyle writer currently living in Pennsylvania. These are mindful concoctions devoted to socially-distanced happy hours at home. While Spring is the official season of the mocktail, it reminds us of better times. Lo-al (low-ABV) drinks are the obvious choices for the hotter climate of summer and the harshness of winter. As she says, "Today's zero-proof cocktails are complex and nuanced, worlds away from their sugar-saturated predeccors such as the Shirley Temple. She's got the basic preps for syrups, shrubs, aperitifs, and spritzers. No real extra set-ups are needed since most kitchens/bars have the basics anyway to handle alcohol. Mocktails are best as a day drink followed by lo-al happy hours. She's also got thirty pages of punches and pitcher drinks for that high volume party -- fourteen great recipes including spicy margaritas by the pitcher, sparkling peach punch, strawberry cucumber tonic, and jalapeno and honeydew sangria. Anything that reduces our alcohol consumption is a good necessity, such as the Michelada from Mexico. Most drinks can be tweaked upwards or downwards in quantities of add-ons. And every mocktail can have as much alcohol (if you need it) as you can pour into it – simply by topping up with a bland white wine. Key bottles of lo-al include Campari, Aperol, elderflower, Pimm's No.1, Amaretto, vermouth, and sherry. This is an infinitely expandable book once you have assimilated the basics. She's got easy ways to mix up flavours. Trendy titles include Bloody M, Rosemary Pear Bellini, Grilled Pineapple Mint Mojito, Lemongrass Cilantro Highball, and Grapefruit Radler. Certainly much better than a premixed non-al pretender bottle such as a gin clone, a bourbon clone, a tequila clone, which retail for $40 or more. Just use stuff like juniper berries and rum flavouring at home. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Apart from the punches and pitchers, drinks are for one person. Quality/price rating by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing: 91

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale  through Sunday February 26...
 
[red] +168716    Les Vignes De Bila-Haut (Chapoutier) $16.95, save $3.00, now $13.95
[red] +322586 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon $20.95, save $3.00, now $17.95
[white] +286278 Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay $19.95, save $2.00, now    $17.95
[splurge] +314575 Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $49.95, save, $5.00 now $44.95
[sweetie] +388306 Vidal Icewine VQA (Inniskillin) 375ml. $49.95, save    $5.00, now $44.95

MAJOR THEME:  FRANCE

Wines Under $20
=========
Fizz+20579    COLLALBRIGO EXTRA DRY CONEGLIANO-VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE    Veneto     DOCG $17.95  MVC/QPR: 89    
W+19379    TRIUS DISTINCTION SAUVIGNON BLANC    2020    VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake    $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89
W+251470    TRIUS DISTINCTION BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY    2020    VQA
Niagara Peninsula    $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89
W+328559    CATHEDRAL CELLAR CHARDONNAY    2021    Western Cape    WO     $17.95    MVC/QPR: 91
W+392092    HENRI EHRHART RÉSERVE PARTICULIÈRE PINOT GRIS    2020    Alsace    AC $18.95     MVC/QPR: 89
W+28608    JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS LOUREIRO VINHO VERDE    2021    Vinho Verde    DOC    $13.95 MVC/QPR: 89
R+548867    CASA SANTOS LIMA COLOSSAL RESERVA    2018    Lisboa    Vinho Regional Lisboa    $16.95      MVC/QPR: 90

Wines Over $20
=========
W+701219    DOMAINE DES MALANDES VAU DE VEY CHABLIS 1ER CRU    2020    Burgundy    AC    $51.95   MVC/QPR: 89.
R+230896    PENINSULA RIDGE RESERVE SYRAH    2016 VQA Niagara Peninsula    $39.95    
MVC/QPR: 89
R+174334    GAJA CA'MARCANDA PROMIS    2020  IGP Toscana    $64.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
Sherry+748798    LUSTAU PALO CORTADO PENINSULA SOLERA FAMILIAR DRY SHERRY    Jerez    DO, Spain    $38.40      MVC/QPR: 89

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, February 14, 2023

Exceptional NEW Kacaba Red wines reviewed --

Just recently released by the winery ...

KACABA Vineyards Proprietor's Block Syrah VQA Niagara Escarpment 2019 Escarpment Series $35.15 at winery and kacaba.com: this syrah is still a young wine, three years old, and with a lot to resolve among the complexities of toasty smoke, vanillins, raspberry and black fruit, pepper and other spices.  10% of Kacaba viognier was added, in true Northern Rhone style. I've tasted various Kacaba syrahs back to 2000 with the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada. You'll get a whiff of anise, rosemary, and red fruit, and with the viognier fruit it is a bit refreshing. Storage was in both French and US oak for 17 months. Definitely a red meat wine. What I usually do is a double-decant, taste, and then leave it in sealed bottle for a week, with daily tastings. If you do this, then you can taste the progress of the wine to its maturity. The grapes come from the youngest syrah plantings at Kacaba. Currently it is plummy but could turn jammy with age. Very good balanced finish emphasizes smooth tannins with a juicy length. Multiple wine award winner (Gold at Ontario Wine Awards 2022, Gold at the All Canadians 2022, and Silver at the National Wine Awards 2022). 13.8% ABV. 3g/L residual sugar. 547 cases produced.  Quality/Price rating is 91 - 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.




KACABA Vineyards Silver Bridge Syrah VQA Niagara Escarpment 2019 Escarpment Series $35.15 at winery and kacaba.com: the fruit here comes from the Silver Bridge vineyard, the oldest (1997) of the three syrah plantings at Kacaba. In true Rhone style, there was a 10% addition of estate viognier. The major expression is that of black cherry-berry tones, mocha, and pepperish.  It's way too young to consume without double-decanting or other aeration.  This is one for the cellar, tight and still developing. Try in a few years as the tannins need a bit more time to smooth out. It is well worth waiting for that delicious syrah intensity: more leaning to a deft Euro style with peppery spices, some leather, smoke, vanilla, red fruit. It has been in French and US oak for 17 months. Expect black fruit and berries, coffee and chocolate tones. It is a big plummy wine: dark, deep, and rich, cedary and jammy. Double-decanting a necessity at this point for that "Rhone tone". Silver medalist at the National Wine Awards of Canada 2022. 14% abv. 3g/L residual sugar. 280 cases produced. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


KACABA Meritage Reserve VQA Niagara Escarpment 2020 Escarpment Series $60.15 at the winery or kacaba.com: this blend has changed over time (the last Reserve Meritage was in 2015); here, it is cabernet franc 35%, cabernet sauvignon 40% and merlot 25%. Everything was vinified separately in older French and US oak for 20 months, and the final blend was determined (from only second-fill barrels), put into stainless, and then bottled. This is a value wine driven by black fruit (black currants, blackberries, plums, dark cherries), still tannic and with nuances of smoke and spices. I usually do a double-decant, taste, and then put it in a bottle with a cork for a week or so, with daily tastings. If you don't do this, then you will miss the evolution of the wine. The wine will be ready 2025-2028. 14.8% ABV. 3.1 g/L residual sugar. Umami food pairings will be best, with strong cured meats, older cheeses, even vegan mushroom risottos. 294 cases made. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


KACABA Cabernet Franc Reserve VQA Niagara Escarpment 2020 Escarpment Series $60.15 at the winery or kacaba.com: this is one of Kacaba's ultra-premium  black label wine-line. Very reminiscent of Right Bank (St Emilion) cabs but without the stuffing of, say, Cheval Blanc. It is just as hard but durable at this young age. It's been aged in a combo of French and US oak for 19 months, and then minimally filtered. Currently it is mute until tasted later after aeration. What I usually do is a double-decant, taste, and then leave it in a sealed bottle for a week or so, with daily tastings. If you don't do this, then you will miss the evolution of the wine. The wine will be ready in six years. Complex aromas begin to ascend and descend as the week rolls on. First some cherries. Mostly red, but later also black. Some herbs and vanilla smoke, spiciness, even coffee and chocolate (that'll please the millennials). Strong (aged or game) red meat is called for food pairing. But then again, what your best food to eat will depend on the age of the wine at whatever point over the next decade. Long lingering finish. 287 cases made. 14.9% ABV. 3.3 g/L residual sugar. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
World Wine Watch Online: Gothic Epicures



http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, February 1, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for the FEBRUARY 4, 2023 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for the FEBRUARY 4, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.
 
** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past While ---
NEWLY RELEASED KACABA VQA NIAGARA WINES...
KACABA Vineyards & Winery Premium Series Cabernet/Syrah 2020 VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 518 cases now available at winery and online at kacaba.com: this is a blend of cabernet franc (60%) with syrah (40%), the latter being the oldest planting in Ontario. Sustainably grown. At one time it was a blend of cabernet/merlot/syrah, but this changes every year depending on the grapes available and the harvest conditions. Matured in French and American oak barrels for 13 months or so. You'll get a whiff of anise and red fruit, and with the franc it is a bit savoury. Definitely a red meat wine. What I usually do is make a double-decant, taste, and then leave it in a re-sealed bottle for a week or so, with daily tastings. The wine itself will be at its peak in a few more years. Expect dark fruit such as cassis and some red fruit like Ontario cherries. 3g/L residual sugar. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

KACABA Vineyards & Winery Premium Series Cabernet Franc 2019 VQA Niagara Escarpment $33.15 525 cases available at winery and online at kacaba.com in January 2023: this is one of Kacaba's new Premium Series, an upscale label line of wine. Very reminiscent of Right Bank (St Emilion) cabs but without the stuffing of, say, Cheval Blanc. It is just as durable at this young age. Currently it is mute until tasted later after aeration. What I usually do is a double-decant, taste, and then leave it in a sealed bottle for a week or so, with daily tastings. If you don't do this, then the wine will be ready in six to ten years. Complex aromas begin to ascend and descend as the week rolls on. First some cherries -- mostly red with Ontario cranberry, but later also black. Some vanilla smoke, savoury herby spiciness, even coffee and chocolate (that'll please the millennials). Again, strong (aged or gamey) red meat is called for food pairing. 3g/L residual sugar.  13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 - 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale  through Sunday February 26...
 
[red] +168716    Les Vignes De Bila-Haut (Chapoutier) $16.95, save $3.00, now $13.95
[red] +322586 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon $20.95, save $3.00, now $17.95
[white] +286278 Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay $19.95, save $2.00, now    $17.95
[splurge] +314575 Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $49.95, save, $5.00 now $44.95
[sweetie] +388306 Vidal Icewine VQA (Inniskillin) 375ml. $49.95, save    $5.00, now $44.95
 
MAJOR THEME:  Southern Hemisphere

Wines Under $20
=========
Fizz+16836    GRAN BARÓN BRUT RESERVA CAVA    Vegan, traditional method, DO, Spain    $18.95  MVC/QPR: 89.
W+14037    DOMAINE LA DÉCELLE RESERVE VALRÉAS CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES BLANC 2021    AC  $17.90  MVC/QPR: 89.
W+31651    PENINSULA RIDGE BEAL VINEYARD RIESLING 2019 VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    $18.95     MVC/QPR: 89.
W+119099    VIÑA COBOS FELINO CHARDONNAY    2021    Unfined and unfiltered, Mendoza    $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+231282    KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC WO  Stellenbosch    $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+391847    THIERRY DELAUNAY TOURAINE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 AP    $16.95    
MVC/QPR: 90.
R+516765    JEAN-PIERRE MOUEIX BORDEAUX    2018    AC    $17.95     MVC/QPR: 89.
R+25237    VINELAND CABERNET FRANC/CABERNET SAUVIGNON    2017    VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment    $19.95     MVC/QPR: 89.
R+28079    LUI RESERVA CABERNET FRANC    2020    Singe vineyard, Mendoza    $19.95
MVC/QPR: 89.
R+132365    VIÑA COBOS FELINO CABERNET SAUVIGNON    2020    Unfined, Mendoza    $19.95    MVC/QPR: 89.
R+371112    MORANDÉ GRAN RESERVA CARMENÈRE    2020    Sustainable, single vineyard, DO Valle del Maipo    $18.95    MVC/QPR: 89.

Wines Over $20

Fizz+113035    PELLER ESTATES SIGNATURE SERIES ICE CUVÉE SPARKLING ROSÉ        Traditional method, Icewine dosage, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $36.95 MVC/QPR: 91.
Fizz+20945    HENRI CHAMPLIAU BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE        Traditional method, AC, Burgundy, France    $24.95    MVC/QPR: 89.
W+31650    MARYNISSEN HERITAGE COLLECTION RIESLING    2020    VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 MVC/QPR: 89.

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures