April 3/2010 Vintages Release: tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 3, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Irony Chardonnay 2008 Napa: good balance and depth, a restaurant
wine, consistent from year to year. +27409, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2008 WO Coastal Region: juicy, MVC
nettles and gooseberries, twist top, 13% ABV. +948620, $13.95, QPR: 90.
3. Andre Blanck Rosenbourg Pinot Blanc 2008 Alsace: delicate white
flowers, malic minerality at the finish. +626606, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Maison Francois Martenot Cuvee Prestige Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007:
well-rounded, some caramel, value-driven. +159095, $16.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Lander-Jenkins Spirit Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California: good
balance of fruit and acid, longer finish, 13.5% ABV. +161398, $17.95,
QPR: 89.
2. Humberto Canale Caracter Patagonia Intimo Malbec 2008: fruity,
plumy, very heavy bottle, 13.5% ABV. +144725, $12.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chilensis Reserva Carmenere 2008 Maule Valley: superb tamed
herbaceousness, lots of acidified fruit, long balanced finish. +657981,
$11.95, QPR: 91.
4. Seifried Estate Pinot Noir Nelson South Island: tasty, lightly sour,
good heft to MVC component. +70778, $19.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau Haut-Grelot Cuvee Tradition 2006 Premieres Cotes de Blaye:
very traditional, straightforward Bordeaux with wood, mocha,
underbrush. Great price. +165738, $15.95, QPR: 91.
6. Domaine Laurent Mabileau Bourgueil 2008: good cabernet franc
intensity, herby but fresh too. +699666, $13.95, QPR: 89.
7. Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun 2007:
good wash of syrah and depth to the finish. +155804, $16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Skouras Saint George 2007 Nemea: ripe and ready, red berries, mocha.
+162321, $16.95, QPR: 89.
9. Bodegas Lan Reserva 2004 Rioja: excellent value for a Rioja Reserva,
13.5% ABV. Accessible now, aging gracefully. +42929, $19.95, QPR: 90.
10. Gladium Tempranillo Crianza 2006 La Mancha: dense, dark, delicious,
ready by Fall 2010. Fruit and acid almost in balance. +162677, $15.95,
QPR: 90.
11. Bod Bilbainas Vina Zaco Tempranillo 2006 Rioja: MVC classic style
of Rioja flavours, 14% ABV. +146209, $14.95, QPR: 89.
12. Vinedos Neo Vinos de Fabula Vivir, Vivir 2007 Ribera del Duero:
very soft but spicy, from older vines, affordable delicacy, 13% ABV.
+162693, $12.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Stella Bella Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Margaret River, +108159, $21.95
retail.
2. Bouchard Pere et Fils Montagny 1er Cru 2007 Blanc, +653683, $27.95.
3. Domaine de la Tour Monts-Main Chablis 1er cru 2006, +159731, $32.95.
4. Beringer Third Century Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 North Coast, +47704,
$23.95.
5. Stella Bella Shiraz 2007 Margaret River, +48553, $24.95.
6. Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2003, +368910,
$27.95.
7. Leal Tanza Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +927913, $27.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Healthy Foodbooks in Review March 2010

. QUINOA 365; the everyday superfood (Whitecap, 2010, 198 pages, ISBN
978-1-55285-994-0, $29.95 CAD paper covers) is by Patricia Green and
Carolyn Hemming, both sisters into natural health foods. Log rolling
comes from academics, athletes, and other cookbook writers. To date,
there have only been a handful of small quinoa books; the grain was
mostly handled in larger books dealing with a variety of grains and
grasses such as amaranth and teff. Quinoa is known for its
digestibility, its high protein level, and having all 8 amino acids.
Here, they give us 170 or recipes which are mainly well-established
preps with quinoa added for its exceptionally high nutritive value –
and versatility. Each prep has an icon to show if the recipe is gluten-
free, "kid-approved", or vegetarian. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Upon
reviewing the recipes, I find that you can add quinoa to just about
anything.
Audience and level of use: families, those with digestive problems or
weight-loss issues.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: quinoa hummus; quinoa
tabbouleh; pimento and chickpea quinoa; broccoli goat cheese soufflé;
Greek burgers; tuna basil sprout sandwich.
The downside to this book: I'm not sure you can call a quinoa risotto
"quisotto".
The upside to this book: a good concept book, extremely useful.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

. ANNA GETTY'S EASY GREEN ORGANIC; cook well, eat well, live well
(Chronicle Books, 2010, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6668-2, $24.95 US
paper covers) is by one of the Getty heirs who also authored "I'm
Dreaming of a Green Christmas". This time, with log-rolling from
established green personnel, she has a SLO book (seasonal, local, and
organic). Here are 100 easy but tasty preps which embrace the
sustainable lifestyle. But first, there is a primer on why SLO food is
the best food. After that, whether you adopt a green style or not, the
preps are very enjoyable, with useful cook's notes. Arrangement is
typical, from starters to desserts. The listing of ingredients could
use a larger type face. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents.
There's a listing of 15 menus for dinners and the like, but
unfortunately, none of the preps are referenced to page entries. At the
back there is a resources listing, with websites, and a bibliography of
books for further reading.
Audience and level of use: families, those looking for a green
lifestyle.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chunky Tuscan bean soup with
swiss chard and pancetta; Asian chopped salad with grilled shrimp;
double lemon chicken breasts with fresh tomato basil salsa; strawberry
frozen yogurt pie with granola crunch.
The downside to this book: I am surprised that she doesn't mention
fair-trade and organic sugar, easily accessible and just as useful as
fair-traded organic coffee – which she spends a whole page on.
The upside to this book: there is a directory to organic California
wineries.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 5/10 Tasting: Cypriot Food and Wines, Toronto

The Time and Date: Friday, March 5, 2010 12 - 2:30 PM
The Event: Cyprus Wine and Food Pairing, sponsored by the Cyprus Wine
Association and the Republic of Cyprus.
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square Kitchen Event Room.
The Target Audience: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada.
The Availability/Catalogue: two of the wines will be here by August, and one
of the Commandaria will be here in April.
The Quote/Background: Christine Cushing, well known hostess of diverse TV
food programs and author of several cookbooks, prepared the lunch pairings.
As well, she did two appetizers with the Commandaria liqueur.
The Wines: Harriet Lembeck, CWE, and New York wine writer and book author
took us through the tasting. ETKO, KEO, LOEL, and SODAP comprise 86% of
Cyprus' wine exports. There are 15 indigenous grape varieties on the island.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-SODAP Kamanterena Xynisteri 2008
-SODAP Maratheftiko 2005

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 - 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ETKO Xynisteri 2008 (with 15% Chardonnay)
-Vouni Panayia Plakta Mavro & Maratheftiko 2005

*** Three Stars (85 - 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-KEO Coeur de Lion Opthalmo and Grenache Rosé NV
-Vouni Panayia Alina Xynisteri 2008
-Tsangarides Xynisteri 2007
-LOEL Maratheftiko 2008
-Tsangarides Ayios Efram Mataro, Shiraz & Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

The Food: we began with crisp Bourbon vanilla pork belly and reverse grilled
halloumi cheese on brioche with tomato relish. These were accompanied by a
Commandaria Cooler made with Bourbon. Then we moved on to the sit-down food
portion tasting menu. There was KEO Coeur de Lion Opthalmo and Grenache Rosé
NV served with roasted Commandaria pears wrapped in Serrano ham with a fried
sage leaf. This was followed by Vouni Panayia Alina Xynisteri 2008 and
Tsangarides Xynisteri 2007 served with a creamy wild mushroom Commandaria
soup, with tarragon and potato. Next up were ETKO Xynisteri 2008 and SODAP
Kamanterena Xynisteri 2008 with mixed baby greens and beets with halloumi
croutons served with citrus vinaigrette. The main course was thyme roasted
muscovy duck breast with tamari blood orange glaze and sauteed cabbage, with
LOEL Maratheftiko 2008, Tsangarides Ayios Efram Mataro, Shiraz & Cabernet
Sauvignon 2006, Vouni Panayia Plakta Mavro & Maratheftiko 2005 and SODAP
Maratheftiko 2005. The dessert was a blend of drunken kumquats with
chocolate silk mousse and phyllo honey cigars, with four Commandarias: SODAP
St. Barnabas 2005, ETKO St. Nicholas 2001, ETKO Centurion 30 Year Old Solera
and KEO St. John 1967. In my case, older was better, and I really enjoyed
the 1967 vintage.
The Downside: I had just arrived from my usual massive Friday LCBO Vintages
tasting, and I needed to re-boot my palate.
The Upside: a terrific food pairing, everything worked except the soup (too
sweet, from the added Commandaria).
The Contact Person: marketing@equistrading.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

March 22/10: Wine Writers' Circle tasting of LCBO wine pre-releases.

The Time and Date: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:30 AM to 1 PM
The Event: March tasting (part 2) of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square at Summerhill
The Target Audience: WWCC members.
The Availability/Catalogue: this was a tasting of wine pre-releases.
The Wines: Sadie Darby had set up the 35 wines in advance.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Inniskillin Chardonnay 2008 VQA Winemaker's Series Three Vineyards
13.5% alc $16.95 #130473 Vintages Release May 29,2010 Niagara Peninsula
-Flat Roof Manor Merlot 2008 14% alc #129874 $10.95 Stellenbosch S.
Africa
-Jackson-Triggs Cabernet/Merlot 2007 Delaine Vnyd VQA 13.7% alc $22.95
#989269

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 - 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon Vintners Blend 13.5%alc $17.95 +606632
VintagesCalifornia
Bodegas Vilbainas Vina Zaco Tempranillo 2006 13.5% alc #146209 $14.95
Vintages April 3 Rioja
-Argento Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2008 13.2% alc $12.95 #164764
General List July 2010 Uco Valley Mendoza Argentina
-Inniskillin Riesling 2008 VQA Winemaker's Series Two Vineyards 12%
alc $17.95 #105387 Vintages Release May 29, 2010 Niagara Peninsula
-Domaine Bassac Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 13.5% alc Certified Organic
#4001428 $12.95 Gen List Spring 2010 Cotes de Thongue France
-San Pedro 35 South Sauvignon Blanc 2009 13.5% alc LCBO # not yet
assigned $11.95 Avail early summer Chile

*** Three Stars (85 - 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Jackson-Triggs Merlot 2007 Proprietors' Grand Reserve VQA 14% alc
$19.95 #563197 Release May 15, 2010 Vintages Exclusive VQA Wine of the
Month Niagara Peninsula
-Blackstone Merlot 2007 Winemaker's Select 13.5% alc $15.95 #606327
Vintages Release March 20, 2010 California
-Sartori Valpolicella Superiore 2007 Ripasso Valdimezzo Veneto 13.5%
alc $16.95 #160374 Vintages Release April 17/10
-Farnese Negroamaro 2008 13.5% alc $8.95 #143735 Gen List Avail
10/13/09 Puglia
-Rutini Trumpeter Malbec 2007 13.5% alc $12.95 #139063 Gen List
Mendoza Argentina
-Angus The Bull Shiraz 2007 14.5% alc $18.95 #132936 Gen List Barossa
and Clare
-J.P. Chenet Sauvignon Blanc 2009 12% alc #161224 $9.95 Avail Feb
26/10 Cotes de Gascogne
-Flat Roof Manor Pinot Grigio 2009 13% alc $10.95 #27128
Stellenbosch S Africa
-Francois Lurton Les Hauts de Janeil Syrah-Grenache 2008 13% alc $12.95
#162214 Pays d'Oc
-Cusumano Neroo d'Avola 2008 14.5% alc $9.95 #143164 Avail Gen List
now. Sicily
-Vina San Pedro 35 South Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2008 14% alc LCBO
# not yet assigned $11.95 Avail early Summer Chile
-Andre Lurton Entre-Deux-Mers Chateau Bonnet Sauvignon
Blanc-Semillon-Muscadelle 2008 12% alc $13.95 LCBO # not yet assigned
Avail Gen List late Spring 2010
-Arniston Bay Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay 2009 13.5% alc $8.95 #129650 West
Cape, S. Africa

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

March 12/10 Tasting: Closson Chase and Pre-Released Wines in Ontario

The Time and Date: Friday March 12, 2010 10:30 AM to 2PM
The Event: March tasting of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square at Summerhill
The Target Audience: WWCC members.
The Availability/Catalogue: this was a tasting of pre-releases, plus (in a
double-header) a tasting of six Closson Chase wines, led by Keith Tyers.
The Quote/Background: Closson Chase has been making wines since before 2001.
Although making wine in Prince Edward County, they use both PEC and Niagara
fruit. Their impressive Chardonnay is derived from their own Aberdeen
vineyard and the Steve Kocsis vineyard - both in Niagara.
So - Closson Chase Chardonnay 2001 (mature, 13.8% ABV, not available
anymore; three stars), 2004 (definitely Burgundian in style, $75; three and
a half stars), 2005 (nutty tropicality, now drinking well, $48; four stars),
2006 (over-the-top caramel-orange, $42; four stars), and two treats from the
storied 2007 vintage - one from the Aberdeen Vineyard ($44.95, three and a
half stars), and one from the S. Kocsis Vineyard ($44.95, four stars because
of its longer finish). These Beamsville Chardonnay vines are now twenty
years old.

The Wines: Sadie had set up some 45 wines. Here were my scores --

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Taittinger 2004 Brut 2004 12.5% alc $79.95 #989905 Vintages March
20/10
- Ram's Leap Shiraz 2007 14% alc $14.95 # 165795 Release May 1/10
NSW Australia Palatine Hills Gewurztraminer Proprietors Reserve VQA
NOTL 2008 13% #101493 $13.95
- Palatine Hills Riesling Traminer VQA NOTL 2008 12.5% alc #58602
(Craft) $13.05

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 - 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine de Vedilhan 2008 Viognier 13.5% alc $12.95 #162081 Pays d'Oc
France
- Vina Lomas de Cauquenes Las Lomas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 13.5%
alc Vintages June 26/10 $12.95 #917922 Maule Valley Chile
- St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 14% alc #58263 $34.95 April 21,
2010 Coonawarra
- Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Founder's Reserve Shiraz Tempranillo
Adelaide Hills 2007 13.5% alc #159830 $22.95 Avail May 5, 2010
- Palatine Hills Chardonnay VQA NOTL 2008 13% alc #168443 (1.5L)
$17.95
- Palatine Hills Cabernet Merlot VQA 2007 #168450 $19.95 1500ml NOTL
Ontario
- Tilia Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 13.5% #163248 $12.95 April 2010 Mendoza
Argentina
- San Polo Bodega & Vinedos Auka Malbec 2008 13.9% alc #68401
$11.95 July 2010 Mendoza Argentina
- Loron & Fils Bourgogne Blanc Montvallon 12.5% alc #167155 $13.95
Release March 2010
-Castellani Chianti Docg Riserva 2005 12.5% alc # 970707 Vintages
release May 1, 2010.

*** Three Stars (85 - 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
- Bodegas Callia Callia Alta 2008 Malbec 13.8% alc Valle De Tulum, San
Juan, Argentina.
- Rafale Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 13.5% alc # 159160 $8.90 Pays d'Oc
France
- Rafale Syrah 2008 13% alc LCBO #157891 $8.90 effective March 2,
2010 Pays d'Oc
- Tenuta di Burchino L'Antico di Burchino Chianti Docg 12% alc
Biodynamic Vintages Apr 17. 2010 #160457 $15.95
- Cantine Sardus Pater Kanai Carignano del Sulcis Riserva 2005 14%
Vintages July 10/10
- Graffigna Centenario Shiraz Reserve 2007 13.5% alc #164731 $12.95
Avail June, 2010 San Juan Argentina
- Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Founder's Reserve Shiraz Cabernet 2006
Limestone Coast 14.5% alc # 107912 $22.95 Barossa Australia
- Trivento Tribu 2008 Syrah 13% alc #145292 $8.95 Argentina
- Trivento Tribu Malbec 2008 14% alc #145284 $8.95 Argentina
- Pierre Andre au Chateau de Corton Andre Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2008
12.5% alc #168427 $15.95 Release April 2010
- Little Yering 2008 13% alc #145318 $14.95 Yarra Valley Australia
- Trivento Fair Trade Malbec 2008 13.5% alc #160994 $9.95 Argentina
- Tilia Malbec 2008 13.5% alc #160945 Mendoza Argentina

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com, keith@clossonchase.com
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Mar 20/10 LCBO Vintages Release: some tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 20, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is guide to thousands
of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and
spirits, at www.deantudor.com (since 1995). Creator of Canada's leading wine
satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My tastings are based on MVC
(Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio).
Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The
LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers
or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calamus Estate Riesling 2007 Niagara Vinemount Ridge: very Alsatian
in tone, long lingering finish, 11.5% ABV. +158642, $16.95, QPR: 90.
2. Cave Spring Estate Bottled CSV Gewurztraminer 2008 Beamsville Bench:
good bitterish finish, slightly smoothed out. +302059, $15.95, QPR: 90.
3. Catena Alamos Viognier 2008 Mendoza: good stone fruit intensity,
best as sipper or with food. +507830, $13.95, QPR: 90.
4. Uby Colombard/Ugni Blanc 2009 Vins de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne:
excellent all round balanced fresh white that tastes like "wine" and
not apples, lemons, or other fruit. +151019, $11.95, QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Clos du Bois Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 North Coast: a steady fave
resto wine, balanced, good with food. +181685, $18.95, QPR: 90.
2. Lagarde Altas Cumbres Malbec 2008 Mendoza: MVC, vanilla tones and
fruit, long length. +146381, $12.95, QPR: 90.
3. D'Arenberg The Stump Jump Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale: delicious fruit,
New World driven of course, twist top, 14.5% ABV. +158238, $14.95, QPR:
90.
4. Kim Crawford Merlot 2007 Hawkes Bay: soft, 13.5% ABV, good merlot
intensity and length, a food wine. +680967, $19.95, QPR: 90.
5. La Clape Chateau Rouquette Sur Mer Cuvee Amarante 2007 Coteaux du
Languedoc: very good syrah hit, quality made product, and please check
out the great UPC design under the back label. +156273, $17.95, QPR:
90.
6. Cantina Valpantena Terre di Verona Ripasso Valpolicella 2006: rich,
ripe, and voluptuous. +117127, $17.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard Fume Blanc 2007 Beamsville Bench,
+68825, $30.20 retail.
2. Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2007 Twenty Mile
Bench, +56929, $40 retail.
3. Ravine Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 Niagara, +173377, $24 retail.
4. Ironstone Reserve Chardonnay 2007 Sierra Foothills, +158774, $26.95.
5. Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre 2008, +744086, $22.95.
6. Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Green Label Syrah-Shiraz 2007
California, +90068, $24.95.
7. Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Ivory Label Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 California, +521021, $26.95.
8. Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Alexander Valley, +50427,
$24.95.
9. 3 Rings Shiraz 2007 Barossa, +15495, $21.95.
10. Bouchard Pere & Fils Cote de Beaune-Villages 2006, +714998, $24.95.
11. Vignamaggio Gherardino Chianti Classico 2007, +963512, $23.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH: The Best Soups in the World

 THE BEST SOUPS IN THE WORLD (John Wiley, 2010, 468 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-18052-5, $22.95 US soft covers) is by Clifford A. Wright, who is an award-winning author of 11 pre4vious cookbooks. He is best known for "A Mediterranean Feast", and he frequently writes for all the major American food magazines. It is a straight forward book at a sensible price, with a heavy emphasis on international classics. The book is arranged by type of soup, e.g., chunky, smooth, clear, minestrone-like, chowder, cheese, egg, and chilled. Most of the chilled soups are fruit-based. Each prep has some indication of its country of origin, and there is even a recipe index by region (with page references). There is also an internet food shopping guide. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. He has a technique section on stock preparations and a nice discussion on canned stocks. There is even s short history of soups. As well, every recipe has a cook's note on context of the soup in its country's cuisine. You can get more details at www.cliffordawright.com

Audience and level of use: any chef

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Georgian beef and apricot soup; mulligatawny soup; Slovak sauerkraut soup; almond and saffron soup; artichoke veloute; rasam; black kale soup; Algerian green wheat soup with meatballs.

The downside to this book: the type face for the ingredients is too light.

The upside to this book: no photos keep the price of the book down.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Tasting: New Wines in February 2010

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH

 

1. Chateau des Charmes Riesling 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $12.45,
+61499 LCBO: done up in stainless, slight and light citrus tones, but
refreshing length. Good bones and flesh, dry style but also useful as a
sipper. 12.5% ABV.

 

2. Chateau des Charmes Riesling Late Harvest 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-
Lake, $21.95 per 375 mL bottle, +432930 Vintages: about 1600 cases
made. A perpetual award winner (Ontario Wine Awards 2009 Gold). Expect
peaches, apples, some orange marmalade, and later some apricots kick
in. Great Riesling character, off-sweet. The winery suggests pairing it
with any kind of chocolate. 10.5% ABV.

 

3. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake,
$13.95, +277236 LCBO (new listing): done in a warm vintage, just
crawling with over the top concentrated black fruit (blackberries,
black currants, black cherries) but not sweet. Nine months in all
French oak, crackling smoke and toast throughout. Nifty, and a steal at
the price. 13% ABV.

 

4. Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $50
retail, $40.61 licensee: the highest level at Southbrook (premium
reserve wines), taken from seven of their best barrels (60% new Vosges
and 40% used French barrels), aged for 19 months. Toasty butterscotch,
tastes more expensive than it is, rich, full and lush finish with a
memory. An excellent wine for BYOW by diners, or a licensee can
certainly sell it at a $20 markup and still make a profit.

 

5. Skouras St. George 2007 Nemea Greece, +162321, $16.95 Vintages on
April 3: from Agiorgitiko grapes, made in new clean style for appeal to
non-Greeks. 13.5% ABV. Delicious mocha tones with a juicy finish. 150
cases. Terrific pairing with a lamb-topped pizza with squash and potato
pie (with mint and sheep's cheese).

 

6. 2008 Muscat of Limnos Greece, +61119, $11.95 Vintages on April 17:
very much like Zibibbo and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, at about 15%
ABV. Expect orange, caramel, baked apple, raisins. Paired against a
lemon tart made with Red Fife wheat flour. Terrific value, won't hang
around the LCBO long at this price. Snap it up. 250 cases.

 

7. Kir Yianni Paranga 2008 Naoussa Greece, +62596, $13.95 Vintages on
May 1: 13.1% ABV, from Macedonian Xinomavro grapes, with some syrah and
merlot similar to a light pinot noir (shades of recent French Languedoc
scandal!!). Raspberries and light cherries dominate, and did well
against a lamb topped-pizza with squash and potato pie (with mint and
sheep's cheese). Last vintage available in Ontario was 2005. 200 cases.

 

8. Sigalas Santorini 2008 Greece, +74781, $22.95 Vintages on May 1:
14.2% ABV. 2009 Gold Medalist. Needs time to breathe, paired with an
"herb jam" with wild herbs, and roasted five-hour eggs. Excellent
matching, I thought, especially with some tangerine notes and
minerality. Could be cellared. Last vintage available in Ontario was
2006. 150 cases.

 

9. Charles Baker Riesling 2008 Picone Vineyard VQA Vinemount Ridge:
made at Stratus, this is by now the premier Riesling in Ontario. Fruit
has always been sourced from four acres on Chef Marc Picone's farm,
being 25-year old vines. This is the fourth vintage, $35 a bottle, with
(as Baker says) "just enough cases produced". Baker's vision is to
harmonize minerality, acidity and sweetness into balance. Expect a
delightful raciness, augmented by the green apple-lime complex of
flavours, great finishing tones. It is evocative of the best "sweet and
sour". A keeper, should get better with the acid and the sugar to keep
it all structurally alive through 2020. I promise to be here for that!

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH: South-West France; the wines...

1. SOUTH-WEST FRANCE; the wines and winemakers (University of California Pr., 2009, 376 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-25941-6, $45US hard covers) is by wine and food writer Paul Strang who specializes in south-west France. The book is based on earlier works stretching back to 1994, but has been entirely recast because of the newer technology and emerging markets. South-west France includes a range of locations, such as Gaillac, Cahors, Fronton, Bergerac, Monbazillac, Duras, Buzet, Gascony, Madiran, and Jurancon. And some that never seem to turn up in Canada, such as Irouleguy, Rosette, Marcillac, and Estaing. Overall, those areas closer to Bordeaux using the same grapes as Bordeaux tend to taste like regular Bordeaux (he addresses the problems of Bordeaux satellites); those areas further away are their own creatures, featuring obscure grapes such as Camaralet (Jurancon), Arrufiac (St. Mont), Segalin (Glanes) and Ondenc (Gaillac). The total area covered here is from Bordeaux south to the Pyrenees, east to the Massif Central, and covering the river valleys of the Lot and the Dordogne. Most of the wines have higher acid, and are ideal accompaniments to the rich and fatty foods of the region. Strang opens with a history of the region, showing connections to Anglo roots. His arrangement is by sub-region, with larger chapters on Cahors, Gaillac, the Dordogne, Gascony, Madiran, and the Pyrenees. Under each, there is identification of cantons and more local history, followed by listings of recommended independent growers (with full directory-type data plus a critique and rating of the wines) and some simple directory listings for "other good growers". His appendices are extremely useful: a table of grape varieties employed in the region, wine and food pairings (a chart), an English glossary of French terms, and a bibliography of both English and French titles. The latter shows a pathetic amount of older books about the region in both languages.

Audience and level of use: readers of wine materials, lovers of wines of South-West France, wine schools, hospitality schools.

Some interesting or unusual facts: "It is refreshing to know that other [grape] varieties, grown only in the South-West, produce wines which are like no other. The South-West is the opposite pole from globalization, which may explain why the big players in the wine business…have been reluctant to come to grips with it."

The downside to this book: while the layout is good (especially because of the leading), the book is larger than it should be. Such similar guides are normally smaller, and lower in price.

The upside to this book: some really new and fresh material about the region.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

March 6/10 LCBO VINTAGES Release Tasting Notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 6, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is guide to thousands
of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and
spirits, at www.deantudor.com (since 1995). Creator of Canada's leading wine
satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My tastings are based on MVC
(Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio).
Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The
LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers
or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Emiliana Novas Winemaker's Selection Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne
2007 Casablanca: from organic grapes, dynamite body and oaky finish, a
big dense wine with flowers on the approach. +63909, $18.95, QPR: 90.
2. Errazuriz Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Casablanca: good
balance with elegance, rewarding food wine, 13.5% ABV, twist top.
+143198, $14.95, QPR: 90.
3. Ingoldby Chardonnay 2008 McLaren Vale: balanced, tightly framed, low
oak. +47647, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Pfaffenheim Cuvee Bacchus Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: terrific
gewurztraminer tones, but drier than the MD indicated in the catalogue.
+996017, $19.95, QPR: 90.
5. Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2008 Vins de Pays D'Oc: delicious value,
complexity of peaches and citrus fruit. 13.5% ABV, twist top. +712638,
$15.95, QPR: 90.
6. Henri de Richemer Muscat Sec 2008 Vins de Pays des Cotes de Thau:
terrific floral and muscat complexity at this price level. +150169,
$12.95, QPR: 91.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Sonoma: deep, deep textures,
very cabby, best with food. 13.8% ABV. +226944, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Casa Lapostolle Merlot 2008 Rapel: delicious merlot intensity, but
with old world character. 14.5% ABV. +405712, $16.95, QPR: 90.
3. Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2007
Central Valley Chile: first rate Bordeaux-styled blend, organic grapes.
+685792, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua: earthy, but excellent blend and balanced with fruit.
Organic, of course. I think that this is the first time I've ever
recommended THREE wines from the same company in one release. +66746,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
5. Tabali Reserva Merlot 2006 Limari: good long food finish, lots of
black fruit and mocha and roasted vanilla. +93740, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6. Alkoomi Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Frankland River: delicious Euro
style, with black fruit and smoke sitting on top. +904227, $19.95, QPR:
90.
7. Mulderbosch Faithful Hound 2005 WO Stellenbosch: excellent Bordeaux-
styled wine, with five classic grape varieties used. +922443, $20.95,
QPR: 90.
8. Chateau Fabre Cuvee des Jumelles 2008 Corbieres: basic quality red
for grilled meats and BBQ. +148783, $13.95, QPR: 90.
9. Aldo Marenco Pirun 2008 Dolcetto: plumy with raspberry component,
good tannins right to the finish, food. Organic. +161729, $17.95, QPR:
90.
10. Rivera Cappellaccio Riserva Aglianico 2004 Castel del Monte Puglia:
extremely Italianate, good aged complexity, jam and leather. +984120,
$17.95, QPR: 90.
11. Vignalta Rosso Riserva 2005 Veneto: a 60/40 blend of cabernet
sauvignon and merlot, 13.5% ABV, generous fruit. +52571, $19.95, QPR:
90.
12. Guelbenzu Azul 2006 Ribera del Queiles Spain: juicy, North American
style, modestly herby and black currant notes. +146225, $18.95, QPR:
90.
13. Heredad de Baroja Cautivo Crianza 2005 Rioja: woody tones, upfront
on the nose, along with tempranillo fruit. +148510, $13.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Beringer Sbragia Limited-Release Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +79178,
$54.95 retail.
2. Mulderbosch Chardonnay 2006 WO Stellenbosch, +717090, $21.95.
3. Domaine Marechal-Caillot Savigny-Les-Beaune 2006, +159707, $34.95.
4. Cennatoio Chianti Classico 2006, +121210, $24.95.
5. I Castei Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005, +739979, $38.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins), February 24, 2010

The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 24, 2010   10 AM to 6 PM
The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et
spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep
the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there are often sales staff
available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also
visits New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary and Montreal
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we
already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price
advantages, either. These 60 or so wines could be made available
through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, many have been picked up
for sale in Ontario. Here were my faves, regardless of price (all
prices are ex-cellar Euros):

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Guy de Chassey Champagne Cuvee Antide, $27.90 E
-Domaine de la Renne Touraine Sauvignon 2009, 2.50 E
-Domaine Charles Allexant et Fils Rully Les Cailloux 2007, 7.90 E
-Chateau Haut Bernasse Cotes de Bergerac Rouge 2006, 3.70 E
-Chateau Haut Bernasse 2003 Monbazillac, 7.10 E for 500 mL

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-SCEV Clos du Porteau Sauvignon Blanc Le Courlis 2009, 2.84 E
-Domaine Millet Francois Sancerre Rouge 2007, 5.60 E
-Domaine Gardien St. Pourcain Blanc Nectar des Fees 2009, 3.10 E
-Domaine Gardien St. Pourcain Rouge Reserve des Grands Jours 2006 VDQS,
4.24 E
-Domaine Dyckerhoff Reuilly Blanc 2008 Loire, 4.35 E
-Vignerons de Tutiac Bordeaux Sauvignon 2008 Quintet, 2.70 E
-Vignobles Clissey Fermis Bordeaux Maynad 2005, 2.20 E
-Chateau Vari Reserve du Chateau 2005 Monbazillac, 5.60 E for 375 mL
-SARL La Cave Gourmande Chateau Belot Le Vignalet 2007 Saint Chinian,
2.50 E
-Domaine Plo Notre Dame Minervois Rouge 2007, 4.50 E
-Domaine du Mas Rous Muscat de Riversaltes 2008 VDN, 4.79 E
-Domaine Jean Gleizes Muscat Sec 2008 Vin de Pays d'Oc, 2.26 E
-Caves Cantalric Corbieres Chateau de Comigne Fut 2006, 3.50 E

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine Millet Francois Sancerre Blanc 2008, 5.60 E
-Domaine Gardien St. Pourcain Rouge Cuvee du Terroir 2009, 3.10 E
-Domaine Gardien Methode Traditionnelle Blanc Perle de Chassignolles,
4.85 E
-Domaine de la Renne Touraine Rouge Cuvee Eminence 2008, 2.95 E
-Domaine Nebout St. Pourcain Tressaillier des Gravieres 2008
(Chardonnay), 3.70 E
-Domaine Charles Allexant et Fils Savigny-les-Beaunes 2007 Aux
Fourneaux , 7.85 E
-Vignobles Clissey Fermis Chateau Haut Terre Fort Bordeaux 2006, 2.30 E
-Chateau Vari 2005 Monbazillac, 3.20 E for 375 mL
-Auguste Bonlouis Chais du Soleil NV, 250 mL PET with 4 nipples for
resting on flat surfaces. Merlot, Chardonnay, and Syrah Rose available
for 0.80 E each.
-Domaine Jean Gleizes Merlot 2008 Vin de Pays d'Oc, 1.80 E
-Caves Cantalric Chardonnay Rendez-Vous 2008 Vin de Pays d'Oc, 2.25 E

 

The Food: none.
The Downside: selection is eclectic and bottles arrive haphazardly.
Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told this until we
got there.
The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.
There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com