FOOD Book of the Month!!

 THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE (John Wiley and Sons, 2011, 388 pages, ISBN
978-0-470-19741-7, $65 US hard covers) is by the Culinary Institute of
America and John Kowalski, a professor at the CIA. Charcuterie has
moved out from its rare artisanal practices to the mainstream. It is
one of the hottest new items in North American restaurants, and, of
course, the CIA with its more than 40,000 alumni wants to be there with
it. So here is the book, covering pates, terrines, cured meats, and
sausages. Kowalski and his team detail ingredients, equipment,
sanitation, techniques and processes (brining, curing, smoking et al).
There's a separate chapter on spices, herbs and seasonings. And there's
also an interesting section on preservatives and how to substitute,
plus alternative ways to preserve that are virtually chemical-free.
There's a concluding chapter with preps and ideas for complementary
condiments such as a variety of cold sauces, gelatins, oils, relish,
chutney, pickles, and compote: orange marmalade and jalapeno sauce;
fresh plum and horseradish coulis; cinnamon-rum applesauce; Cajun-style
lime and mustard-seed dressing; pickled lady apples. The layout is
first-rate, with larger typefaces (especially good in the index).
Photos are informative. There are charts
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks, restaurant chefs, schools of
hospitality libraries.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: dry-rub barbecued bacon;
dry-cured pancetta; beef jerky; campagne forcemeat; chicken galantine;
tete pressee; buffalo wing-style sausages; weisswurst; duck sausage.
The downside to this book: it lacks excitement and a "wow" factor since
it is a text.
The upside to this book: quantities are reasonable; you should make at
least 11 pounds of sausages at one go just to be efficient.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 ..is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

 

7. MY SWEET MEXICO; recipes for authentic pastries, breads, candies,
beverages, and frozen treats (Ten Speed Press, 2010, 217 pages, ISBN
978-1-58008-994-4, $30 US hard covers) is by pastry chef Fany Gerson, a
CIA grad who has worked in many Spanish and Mexican restos. She now
splits her time between NYC and Mexico; she also runs
www.mysweetmexico.com. This cookbook, with log rolling from Bayless and
others, does give us a unique contribution in that it is solely devoted
to the desserts side of Mexican cuisine. It is part memoir as well as
culinary cultural history. She begins with bebidas (beverages), moving
on to sweets put together by nuns, and then to corn, heirloom sweets,
morning sweet breads, fruit, desserts, and frozen foods. There is also
a section on modern Mexico, with piloncillo-roasted pears with cheese
pastry, a passion fruit mexcal trifle, mango bread puddings with
tamarind sauce, an upside-down plantain cake, and a cheesecake with
spiced quince. Many indigenous ingredients are used, such as sweet
maguey plants, mesquite, honeys, and cacao. There's an all-US sources
list plus a bibliography. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there are metrics table of equivalents. A
very prominent contribution to culinary literature. Quality/Price
rating: 90.

 

8. THE OCEAN WISE COOKBOOK; seafood recipes that are good for the
planet (Whitecap, 2010, 322 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-016-7, $34.95
Canadian paper covers) is a collection of preps from chefs and
restaurants from across Canada, although most of them are from the West
Coast. It's an accessible guide to sustainable seafood and freshwater
fish, which the index indicates ranges from abalone to yellow perch.
Some rarities include jellyfish, geoduck, and sea urchin. Jane Mundy, a
professional cook and writer, did the editorial work. Ocean Wise is a
nationwide conservation program created by the Vancouver Aquarium to
educate restaurants and consumers about the issues surrounding
sustainable seafood: it has over 200 members. 139 recipes feature about
45 types of seafood – and each prep is sourced as to chef. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. After a discussion
on sustainability, farmed versus wild, fresh versus frozen, and storage
for fish, the preps are listed in course order from apps to mains, with
chapters on "one-pots" and canned foods. But this is not all fin; some
fur is involved with an octopus and sausage prep, and a mussels and
sausage recipe. Try fish cakes with wasabi pea puree and wilted pea
shoot salad, or sake-marinated barramundi with ginger, or prosciutto
and rosemary-wrapped halibut, or coconut scallop bisque with prawns. A
very worthwhile book. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

9. THE GEOMETRY OF PASTA (Quirk Books, 2010; distr. Raincoast, 288
pages, ISBN 978-1-59474-495-2, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Jacob
Kenedy, co-owner of Bocca di Lupo in London, voted a best restaurant by
Time Out and the Evening Standard. Caz Hildebrand is well known as the
designer of best-selling cookbooks. Log rolling includes Nigella
Lawson. Their book pairs over 100 recipes from Kenedy with Hildebrand's
black-and-white designs. Kenedy describes each pasta shape (wheels,
tubes, fantasy, twists, folds, grooves) and then prepares some sauces
for them. He begins with agnolotti, which are raviolis made from one
piece of pasta folded in half. There's a dimensions panel, a list of
synonyms, and how the pasta was used historically. Then he tells how to
make it, and gives recipes for sauces. Here, he has a walnut sauce, but
one can also use a butter and sage sauce, do an "in brodo" or go with a
tomato sauce. And, of course, there's a nice silhouette pattern by
Hildebrand, which I assume some enterprising business will turn into a
patterned fabric. He ends with ziti, also known as candele, which can
be used in a timballo and in ziti lardati (both recipes given). Other
variations would include using ziti with ricotta and tomato, with a
Napoli ragu, with lentils, al forno, or even a arrabbiata sauce.
There's an index of sauces, in both Italian and English. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no metric table of equivalents. This is a very useful reference book,
to both cooks and chefs alike. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

10. BAREFOOT CONTESSA, how easy is that (Clarkson Potter, 2010, 256
pages, ISBN 978-0-307-23876-4, $35 US hard covers) is by Ina Garten,
who has written six other cookbooks and hosts "Barefoot Contessa" on
Food Network plus writes a monthly column. It neatly continues the
parade of easy cooking books that promise quick and flavourful meals at
a low cost. This particular book is being promoted as "her easiest
recipes ever". It helps to have a mise en place, sharp knives, proper
equipment, and a cocktail before starting. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents. The arrangement is by course, beginning with
starters, lunch, dinner, veggies, and dessert. There's about 100
recipes here, with variations. Simple preps include roasted figs and
prosciutto, chipotle and rosemary roasted nuts, beef barley soup,
herbed ricotta bruschettas, Greek panzanella, tuna and hummus
sandwiches, bangers and mustard mash. Nice large type with plenty of
leading so there are no excuses for home cook errors. Quality/price
rating: 84.

 

 

 

11. IN A PINCH; effortless cooking for today's gourmet (Whitecap, 2010,
204 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-026-6, $29.95 paper covers) is by Caren
McSherry, owner of Vancouver's Gourmet Warehouse. She also appears on
Global TV every Saturday. The book promises that she "will show you how
to make a five-star meal in no time flat", which is an honourable
intention but only if you follow through on it. Log rolling comes from
fellow west-coasters such as John Bishop and Vikram Vij. So this
collection of gourmet secrets and shortcuts relies on planning, a mise
en place, and a pantry. Not to mention a cool demeanor. There's also
the matter of proper equipment and proper plates. The arrangement is by
course, apps to desserts, with a collection of resources from around
the world. Her pantry has 10 "must-have" ingredients; he kitchen has 11
utensils "I can't live without". Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of equivalents. Typical recipes include fresh fig and chevre
rolls, quick bouillabaisse [west coast], Reggiano cheese sticks,
zabaglione, BBQ duck pizza, chocolate coconut cups. Quality/price
rating: 85.

 

 

 

12. THE FOOD NETWORK SOUTH BEACH WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL COOKBOOK; recipes
and behind-the-scenes stories from America's hottest chefs (Clarkson
Potter, 2010, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-46016-5, $35 US hard covers)
has been collated by Lee Brian Schrager (founder of the festival) with
food writer and editor Julie Mautner. For one long weekend each year,
hot chefs drop in on South Beach to work one of the world's largest
kitchens. This cookbook features 100 recipes and stories about
celebrity chefs such as Bobby Flay, Paula Deen (double chocolate gooey
butter cake), Mario Batali, Rachael Ray (Cubano burger with mango
salsa), Martha Stewart (lobster roll), Alice Waters (grapefruit and
avocado salad), Rick Bayless (brava steak), Nigella Lawson (caramel
croissant pudding), and others. It's been a leading "meet and greet"
fundraiser function for a decade, and this book celebrates ten years
worth of preps (about ten recipes per year). Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents. And with an easy to read layout. Quality/Price
rating: 84.

 

13. THE VEGAN GIRL'S GUIDE TO LIFE; cruelty-free crafts, recipes,
beauty secrets and more (Skyhorse Publishing, 2010; distr. T. Allen,
224 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-092-1 $21.50 CAD soft covers) is by
Melisser Elliott, founder of Sugar Beat Sweets Bakery, San Francisco's
first vegan bakery. She has also been featured in just about every
vegan lifestyle publication, as well as television. Here she gives us
the basics of vegan lifestyle, which includes clothes and cosmetics.
There are also recipes for foods as well as instructions for making
your own clothes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Try banana bread French toast, two-bean confetti hash, apple sage rice
stuffed acorn squash, almond-lime cake, purple cow cupcakes. The book
lacks an index, which I calculate to be a serious defect in the
retrieval of information. Otherwise, it is pretty nifty, with an
excellent chapter on transitioning to vegan. Quality/price rating: 80.

 

14. NEW ORLEANS KITCHENS; recipes from the Big Easy's best restaurants
(Gibbs Smith, 2010, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-1001-4, $30 US hard
covers) has been pulled together by Stacey Meyer (CIA grad now working
with Emeril Lagasse) and Troy Gilbert (free lance writer). It's a basic
New Orleans cookbook augmented not by photos of plated dishes but by
photos of themed Louisiana work from local artists. It's a lot like an
earlier series showcasing Santa Fe art and food. There are a few short
notes on New Orleans galleries and New Orleans food and chefs. Each
prep comes with a source, such as the white truffle bean dip from Tom
Wolfe of Peristyle, or smoked duck breast pain perdu with Fontina
cheese and cane syrup from Greg Poole of The Bistro at the Maison de
Ville, or shrimp remoulade from Brian Landry, executive chef of
Galatoire's. Another 25 recipes come from Stacey and/or her mother,
Mary Ann Meyer. Chefs, restaurants, museums, galleries, and artists are
also cited in the resources section, with addresses and websites and
phone numbers. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents.
Great photos of local art and a well-designed large typeface layout
completes the picture. Oh, yes: the recipes also include the basic po'
boys, jambalaya, gumbo, etouffee, and oysters. Quality/price rating:
89.

 

 

 

15. SWALLOW THIS; the progressive approach to wine (20 Sips LLC, 2009;
distr. McArthur, 2010, 342 pages, ISBN 978-0-615-30209-6 $24.95 CAD
soft covers) is by celebrity television star wine taster Mark Phillips,
who had a PBS show (now on DVD) about wine tasting. In addition to this
book, he also has audio books and DVDs on how to taste. The Progressive
Approach is entertaining, although some wine people cringe. Yes, he
says that there is a time to microwave wine. Yes, he tells you which
wine is best for wild sex (but because he didn't do an index, you
cannot find out which wine goes with pussy unless you read it from
cover to cover). Yes, there is a time to freeze wine. No, don't buy any
expensive wines. But you can tell what wine tastes like before opening
it. No, different shapes of glasses will alter wines but one shape
seems to be best above all (he has done the research and sells the
glasses). So: No, you don't need a collection of different shapes
(waste of money). Wine ratings are silly. Describing wine is for geeks.
And on and on. As he pointedly says, "Wine just adds an emotional
component, a pure sensual aspect to whatever you're doing. It is a
bonding beverage." Just don't overdo it, for alcohol kills. This is a
good bedtime read, to relax. BUT IT DOES NEED AN INDEX. Quality/price
rating: 82, probably up to 88 with an index.

 

16. FLOUR; spectacular recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Café
(Chronicle Books, 2010, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6944-7, $35 US hard
covers) is by owner Joanne Chang. She's also a food writer. Christie
Matheson is the focusing food editor. It's a basic book that can be
scooped up by her fans in the Boston area, or tourists who have visited
her place and want to replicate her foods in their own homes. There are
breakfast treats, cookies, cakes, pies, tarts, and breads – each with
its own chapter. The book opens with basic primer material plus her top
12 baking tips. These are so self-evident that they bear repeating
until they are drummed into everybody's head: preheat the oven, "mise"
everything, read the recipe, weigh your ingredients, toast your nuts,
roll out properly, make ahead, bake dough all the way through, and
others. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is also a table of equivalents. One
discouraging note: I found the typeface too faint. Try buttermilk
biscuits, berry bread pudding, plum clafoutis, hazelnut-vanilla ice
milk, or the dacquoise. Quality/Price rating: 87.

 

17. THE FRANKIES SPUNTINO KITCHEN COMPANION & COOKING MANUAL (Artisan
Books, 2010; distr. T. Allen, 234 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-415-3, $24.95
US hard covers) is by Frankie Falcinelli, Frank Castronovo and Peter
Meehan. The two Franks are co-chefs at Frankies Spuntino in New York
since it opened in 2004; spuntino means a casual Italian eatery. Log
rolling comes from Mario Batali, Paul Bocuse, and director Spike Jonze.
It is a good time, good feel book, with plenty of mozzarella and tomato
sauce. Italian cooking as we all used to know it. And there is lots of
memoir-type material here, with stories and photos of their lives and
the resto. It actually seems perfect as a guy's book since most of the
recipes are uncomplicated and reflective of grandmothers. Arrangement
is by course (antipasto to dolce). The appendices feature menus for
entertaining, pairing wines, cheeses, and how to fillet a sardine
(always useful). Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Try puntarelle with lemons, capers, anchovies, and pecorino romano. Or,
a sardine and blood orange salad, gnocchi marinara with fresh ricotta,
or linguine cacao e pepe. Quality/Price rating: 83.

 

 

 

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

BOOK REVIEW: Grandi Vini (Clarkson Potter)

 

GRANDI VINI; an opinionated tour of Italy's 89 finest wines (Clarkson Potter, 2010, 292 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-46303-6, $24.99 US hard covers) is by Joseph Bastianich, who owns four Italian wine estates, a wine store, plus many restaurants in New York City. Shamelessly, he has four log rollers including his business partner (Chef Mario Batali) and his own mother (Lidia Bastianich, cookbook author and co-owner of multiple restaurants, celebrity TV chef on PBS, etc.). Oh yes, if that wasn't enough: he also got an endorsement from Robert ("Himself") Parker Jr. But seriously, while this is a serious book, I have no idea why he needs such log rolling. He takes us through the process of why these wines were chosen by him (but why 89? Why not 90? Or 100?). Twenty-one wines are from nebbiolo grapes in Piedmont, while 11 are from sangiovese grapes in Tuscany. 18 are IGT wines (mostly supertuscans); 17 are white wines (mostly Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia). There's a marsala, a vin santo, and a passito di pantelleria. The well-known (and expensive) names include Il Greppo, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Tignanello, Sassicai, Cervaro della Sala, and Ben Rye. There are also several organic wines. Some memoir and travel materials, as well as histories of the estates and, of course, tasting notes are spread among the entries. At the back, there are summaries of the wines, with information on grape varieties, production, website, first vintage made, aging, and production methods. Every region is covered, but not every province. It must have been politically difficult to come up with a wide dispersion of choices.

Audience and level of use: Italian wine lovers.

Some interesting or unusual facts: Some of the wines produced are biodynamic. Others are "natural" or "sustainable" or organic.

The downside to this book: the nature of differences among natural, sustainable, organic and biodynamic terms is not clearly stated.

The upside to this book: a good reckoning for the 89 wines.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Jan 22, 2011: LCBO Vintages Release -- some tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 22, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc 2009 North Coast California: warm Cal
style, inviting, toned down grassiness, restaurant wine. +146258,
$17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Folie a Deux Menage a Trois Chardonnay 2008 California: rich Cal
style, finishes a bit clove-y, vanilla and butter side of oak. +158592,
$18.95, QPR: 90.
3. Vina Casablanca El Bosque Chardonnay 2008 Casablanca: baked apple
nose, some caramel, Burgundian, food-driven lemon taste, long finish.
+208389, $14.95, QPR: 91.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Trentadue Old Patch Red 2006 North Coast California: 46% zinfandel,
35% petite sirah, 12% carignan, 5% sangiovese, 2% syrah. Best for BBQ
on your frozen patio/balcony. +686709, $15.95, QPR: 89.
2. Staccato Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Mendoza: organic, 60%
Malbec, dark fruit and spices, finishes best with food. +19660, $12.95,
QPR: 90.
3. Morande Reserva Pinot Noir 2008 Casablanca Valley: good pinot snap
and tartness, old world style MVC Burgundian. +59428, $14.95, QPR: 89.
4. Winery of Good Hope Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2009 WO Stellenbosch:
14% ABV. Mounds of fruit with sufficient finishing acid makes this a
swinger between sip and food. Great value. +8748, $11.95, QPR: 91.
5. Chateau de Nages Reserve 2009 Costieres de Nimes: gutsy and spicy,
red fruit, enlivened finish. Some garrigue. +427617, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6. Domaine de la Bastide Cuvee Les Figues Cotes du Rhone 2009: great
blend of syrah-grenache-carignan, North American appeal with juiciness,
but some refreshing tartness. +194852, $13.95, QPR: 90.
7. Cantine Nicosia Fondo Filara Nero d'Avola 2008 IGT Sicilia: berries
and mocha, plus herbs. Oaky with a lighter but sufficient acidic
finish. +207811, $15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Sartori L'Appassito Rosso 2008 IGT Veneto: wonderful intensity of
dried fruit and spices, good backbone for food. +193607, $18.95, QPR:
90.
9. Casa de Santar Red 2007 Dao: dark fruit, cedary, leafy, unfiltered,
long finish, 13.5% ABV. +190710, $14.95, QPR: 89.
10. Casa de Illana Tresdecinco 2004 Ribera del Jucar: North American
style blend of syrah, cab sauv ands merlot, fresh lumber notes, off-dry
on the palate, fruity finish. +190702, $15.95, QPR: 89.
11. Vinos Sin-Ley Traza Gra 2 2008 Rioja: 100% Graciano. Berry
flavours, spices which persist on the finish, good adequate body.
Unoaked. Where is Gra 1 (the cooler climate version)? +190819, $16.95,
QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Cedrick Bardin Pouilly-Fume 2009, +202416, $21.95 retail.
2. Markus Molitor Riesling Spatlese 2008 QmP Haus Klostergerg, +189613,
$22.95.
3. Mission Hill SLC Merlot 2005 Okanagan, +68353, $34.95.
4. Clos du Bois Sonoma Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Alexander Valley
Sonoma, +54080, $24.95.
5. M and D Phillips Earthquake Zinfandel 2007 Lodi, +59717, $39.95.
6. Clos du Calvaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, +728139, $36.95.
7. Perrin & Fils La Gille Gigondas 2007, +906073, $26.95.
8. Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico Riserva 2006, +930966, $21.95,
QPR: 90.
9. Burgo Viejo Gran Reserva 2000 Rioja, +190611, $21.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

More Food and Drink Books reviewed

 MY COOKING CLASS: series (Firefly Books, 2010, unpaged, ISBN varies,
$24.95 Canadian soft covers) is a new series of cook books meant for
beginner home cooks or those who want a refresher on certain elements
or themes. Each has an individual author (usually a professional with
several cookbooks under his/her belt) but they are all set up the same
way. The preps are presented in visual sequences, step-by-step. Every
piece of equipment is photographed from above in colour, and every
ingredient is shown in the correct quantity and in the order that it
will be used. The publisher claims that it is as true to reality as
possible. The written part is at the bottom of each page, listing the
ingredients and the sequence. Cooks notes (variations, techniques,
service) are presented. There is a glossary of terms, a listing of the
preps in content order, and a subject index by type of food. There are
no page numbers, just a recipe number. So a prep such as "pinwheel
cookies" is number 43 in the chocolate book, and continues for four
pages with "43" at the top of those four pages. All of the books
conform to this arrangement. They've all got between 70 and 97 recipes
in each one. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric
and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
CHOCOLATE BASICS, ISBN 978-1-55407-758-8, by Orathay Guillaumont and
Vania Nikolcic.
MIDDLE EASTER BASICS, ISBN 978-1-55407-759-5, by Marianne Magnier-
Moreno.
PASTA BASICS, ISBN 978-1-55407-756-4, by Laura Zavan.
SAUCE BASICS, ISBN 978-1-55407-761-8, by Keda Black.
STEAMING BASICS, ISBN 978-1-55407-757-1, by Orathay Guillaumont.
VEGETABLE BASICS, ISBN 978-1-55407-760-4, by Jody Vassallo.
Audience and level of use: home cooks, possibly hospitality students.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cappuccino pie; monkfish
tagine; clams with herb butter; salmon bundles; mouhalabieh;
tagliatelle with duck; conchiglioni with caponata; wild mushroom
risotto; cauliflower with cheese.
The downside to this book: a big investment if you buy them all.
They're at Amazon.Ca for $15.64 each, which is a help.
The upside to this book: practical series.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

4. CLEAN START; inspiring you to eat clean and live well (Sterling
Epicure, 2010, 166 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-7905-3 $25 US hard covers) is
by Terry Walters, author of "Clean Food". It's another book dealing
with SLOFE principles (seasonal, local, organic, fast, and easy),
following up on her initial work. There are 100 additional recipes here
for making healthy choices. There are the usual tips and advice plus
ideas for leftovers and how to protect nutrient-rich foods. Recipes are
vegan and gluten-free, and arranged by season beginning with Spring.
There are about 25 preps per season. The photos looked especially
enticing. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: vegans or those interested in becoming
vegans.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted cauliflower and
garlic soup; cinnamon whole oats with toasted almonds; festive quinoa
with apricots and orange zest; polenta pizzas;
The downside to this book: for some reason the first book's log rolling
from Mario Batali and Alice Waters also appears on the back cover of
this book.
The upside to this book: the physical book has been published with
recycled products and agri-based inks.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

5. PANINI; gourmet recipes to help you get the most from your panini
press (Whitecap, 2010, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-030-3) is by
Dominique and Cindy Duby – it is one of a series of small books by this
team of pastry chefs who have now branched out to a complete line of
food styling through DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc. Other such books
have included Chocolate and Crème Brulee. It seems to me, though, that
this is their first savoury book in their Definitive Kitchen Classics
series, and it uses the panini press. You can use a non-electric panini
pan and press, but why bother? If you have room and inclination for a
single use equipment for panini, then you might as well get an electric
one: it can also double as an electric frying pan of sorts. The 40
preps here are mainly Mediterranean (mostly Italian)-inspired. There's
basic grilled bread and cheese, seafood and shellfish, meaty and
poultry, charcuteries and cured meats, eggs and veggies, and sweets.
The team also has notes on pairing wine and beer with panini. I agree
with the Dubys: beer seems to work better than wine. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents. Ciabatta is the basic bread
recommended, but of course you can use baguettes or country breads.
There are plenty of variations, beginning with the type of bread, or
cheese, or meats, or garnishes. So the basic 40 here can become
greater, almost a different one every day for a year.
Audience and level of use: beginners, home cooks, sandwich lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ham & cheese croque monsieur
panini; gruyere, ciabatta, and onion jam panini; prosciuto, fig and
provolone panini; balsamic Neufchatel cream and strawberry panini;
honey, pecan, pear, blue cheese cream and brioche panini.
The downside to this book: tasty sandwiches, but difficult to do
without a press.
The upside to this book: variety of sandwiches.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

6.  GRANDI VINI; an opinionated tour of Italy's 89 finest wines
(Clarkson Potter, 2010, 292 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-46303-6, $24.99 US
hard covers) is by Joseph Bastianich, who owns four Italian wine
estates, a wine store, plus many restaurants in New York City.
Shamelessly, he has four log rollers including his business partner
(Chef Mario Batali) and his own mother (Lidia Bastianich, cookbook
author and co-owner of multiple restaurants, celebrity TV chef on PBS,
etc.). Oh yes, if that wasn't enough: he also got an endorsement from
Robert ("Himself") Parker Jr. But seriously, while this is a serious
book, I have no idea why he needs such log rolling. He takes us through
the process of why these wines were chosen by him (but why 89? Why not
90? Or 100?). Twenty-one wines are from nebbiolo grapes in Piedmont,
while 11 are from sangiovese grapes in Tuscany. 18 are IGT wines
(mostly supertuscans); 17 are white wines (mostly Alto Adige and
Friuli-Venezia Giulia). There's a marsala, a vin santo, and a passito
di pantelleria. The well-known (and expensive) names include Il Greppo,
Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Tignanello, Sassicaia, Cervaro della Sala, and
Ben Rye. There are also several organic wines. Some memoir and travel
materials, as well as histories of the estates and, of course, tasting
notes are spread among the entries. At the back, there are summaries of
the wines, with information on grape varieties, production, website,
first vintage made, aging, and production methods. Every region is
covered, but not every province. It must have been politically
difficult to come up with a wide dispersion of choices.
Audience and level of use: Italian wine lovers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Some of the wines produced are
biodynamic. Others are "natural" or "sustainable" or organic.
The downside to this book: the nature of differences among natural,
sustainable, organic and biodynamic terms is not clearly stated.
The upside to this book: a good reckoning for the 89 wines.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW

 

3. 1000 RECIPES FOR SIMPLE FAMILY FOOD (Firefly, 2010, 400 pages, ISBN
978-1-55407-733-5, $29.95 CAD, hard covers) has been edited by Eleanor
Maxfield. It's a book packager's opus, from Octopus Publishing in the
U.K. And as such, it is pretty basic. If you count the spin-off
recipes, then you'll get 1000. Otherwise, it is one recipe to a page
plus photo. For example, under Budget Meals, there is jerk chicken
wings. The spin-off, in a lighter (and thus harder to read) typeface is
here jerk lamb kebabs. For the duck breast with a plum and mango salsa,
there is an apricot and lime salsa. These are variations. The
arrangement follows style, such as simple snacks, midweek meals, family
faves, one pot, vegetarian, kids, baked items, and desserts. There is
something here for everyone, but it is all basic at an affordable
price. Many dishes can be created in 30-minutes or so, and everything
is easy to follow, although the typeface could have been a bit larger.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: general home cooks, beginners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: eggplant, tomato and feta
rolls; lima bean and bacon soup; goat's cheese and tomato tarts; feta
cheese and pepper tarts; sesame greens with black bean sauce; Mexican
pie; creamy blue cheese pasta; chocolate soufflés.
The downside to this book: the lighter typeface for the spin-off
recipes.
The upside to this book: a nice basic collection.
Quality/Price Rating: 81.  

 

 

 

4. WHOLESOME KITCHEN; delicious recipes with beans, lentils, grains and
other natural foods (Ryland, Peters, and Small, 2010, 160 pages,
$24.95US hard covers) is by Ross Dobson, an Australian chef, caterer,
and food writer with several cookbooks to his credit from Ryland Peters
& Small. These are mainly preps for pulses and grains, sorted by course
(appetizers, soups, salads, side, main dishes, and baking). The thrust
is ethnic, the excitement is spicy. All the recipes are useful,
especially for vegetarians. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ful medames; Moroccan fava
bean and cumin dip; Mexican taco salad with pinot beans and avocado;
chickpea and fresh spinach curry; chocolate and aduki bean paste phyllo
fingers; homemade semolina crumpets.
The downside to this book: there's shading on the pages with the
recipes, and thus some of them are hard to read.
The upside to this book: a useful bean cookbook.
Quality/Price Rating: 82.

 

 

 

5. THE DIABETES COOKBOOK (DK, 2010, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-5139-8,
$25 US hard covers) is from the editorial team at DK Books, along with
editorial consultant Amy Campbell, MS, RD, LDN, CDE. Who has written
other books about food and diabetes. There are 220 sensible recipes
here, with nutritional analysis for each. Preps have an indication of
service, preparation time, cooking time and freezing time. Much space
is also devoted to daily meal planning. Useful websites are noted, such
as for the DASH diet, the food pyramid, the glycemic index. Recipes are
sorted by meals – breakfasts, snacks, lunches, simple dinners
(vegetarian, fish, meat, poultry), sides, and desserts. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there are no tables of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: diabetics, beginner cooks, even those
looking for a healthy lifestyle.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: curried salmon kebabs;
spiced bulgar wheat with feta and salsa; yellow split peas with peppers
and pea shoots; Spanish eggs; pan fried shrimp; eggplant and zucchini
tagine with couscous; pork tenderloin stuffed with chiles and tomatoes.
The downside to this book: the typeface seems a bit light even for the
thin font.
The upside to this book: good database of preps.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

 

 

6. MICROGREENS; how to grow nature's own superfood (Firefly, 2010, 107
pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-769-4, $19.95 Canadian paper covers) is by
Fionna Hill, a gardener-floral designer who also writes books and
magazine articles. It's a wonder that this is one of the first books
about microgreens, the tiny seedlings of herbs and veggies, since they
have been on cooks' radar for over five years. Anyway, the volume
definition is that they are larger than sprouts but smaller than baby
salad greens. They are useful to grow in a limited amount of space such
as an apartment balcony or a window sill. Most varieties are ready in a
week, and they contain a large amount of nutritional material. Hill
gives us data on 20 popular varieties (arugula, beet, kale, peas,
broccoli, basil, et al), as well as a dozen recipes. Flavours range
from mild to hot, nutty or spicy, but microgreens are also
interchangeable to some extent. A recipe may call for only as handful
of microgreens: what they are will be up to what you grow.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of equivalents. There's
a glossary and some international websites, but nothing specific to
Canada.
Audience and level of use: adventurous cooks
Some interesting or unusual facts: "Flavours change as the plant grows.
As the leaves open, they begin to manufacture energy from light. That
gives them a change in flavour. The most intense flavour comes when
that first leaf opens."
The downside to this book: a bit short at only 107 pages, large type.
More could have been said.
The upside to this book: a useful single-product book.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

7. PERFECT ONE-DISH DINNERS; all you need for easy get-togethers
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2010, 266 pages, ISBN 978-0-547-19595-7 $32
US hard covers) is by Pam Anderson, former executive editor for Cook's
Illustrated and a prolific cookbook author (The Perfect Recipe series),
winning an IACP Award for best cookbook. Her book is neatly divided
into stews, casseroles, roasting pans, and summer salads with grilled
platters. It is a nice concept, and gets away from just a slow-cooker
or a casserole. These then are easy make-aheads, suitable for potlucks
or for entertaining with unique dishes. There are some menu suggestions
for quick apps, sides and desserts, plus a dinner drink or wine.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents. Some dishes use prepared
foods.
Audience and level of use: harried home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: one- pot penne with turkey-
feta meatballs; grilled antipasto platter; roast chicken with sausage
and vegetable stuffing; chicken potpie with green apples and cheddar
biscuits.
The downside to this book: tough competition with other one-pot books
out there in these tough times.
The upside to this book: good layout and enthusiasm.
Quality/Price Rating: 84.

 

 

 

 

 

8. PRESERVE IT! (DK Books, 2010, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-6208-0, $25
US hard covers) has been edited by Lynda Brown, with Carolyn Humphries
and Heather Whinney. Recipes come from a variety of sources, including
the Soil Association. This is another "times are tough" book, joining a
parade of preservation books this year. DK does it up with a certain
commercial slickness that I enjoyable to read and see. They always have
great visuals in the photography. The main theme here is using surplus
foods: fruit, vegetables, meats, fish, dairy. There are the usual step-
by-step fully illustrated instructions. The book covers jams, syrups,
sausages, cheese, butters, ciders and wines – all in 180 recipes and
with over 600 photos. The arrangement is by type of preservation,
beginning with natural storage. This is followed by drying, freezing,
sweet preserves, savoury preserves, bottled and canned foods,
preserving in oil, salting and curing charcuterie, smoking, and
brewing/vinting wines and beers and ciders. At the beginning of the
book, there is a heavy emphasis on equipment and on safety.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beet wine; pea pod wine;
cranberry jelly; green bean and zucchini chutney; mushrooms in oil;
wet-cured ham; salted turkey.
The downside to this book: nothing really.
The upside to this book: covers more than it says it does.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

9. FAST BREADS; 50 recipes for easy, delicious bread (Chronicle Books,
2010, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6570-8, $19.95 US paper covers) is by
Elinor Klivans, a magazine food writer who also has written cookbooks
on aspects of baking. Here she covers breads, buns and biscuits, both
sweet and savoury. It's arranged by topic, so there is a nice chapter
on quick breads (no yeast), corn breads, and another on refrigerator
breads, as well as bread dishes or bread toppings. The yeasted breads
use the popular quick-rise no-knead technique. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric
table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: savoury lemon-leek loaf;
cinnamon-caramel pinwheels; multigrain crusty bread; Gruyere and black
pepper gougeres; Sally Lunn bread.
The downside to this book:  I wish there were more recipes, say 75.
The upside to this book: a nice collection of classic preps.
Quality/Price Rating: 84.

 

 

 

 

 

10. PARTY VEGAN; fabulous fun food for every occasion (John Wiley &
Sons, 2010, 278 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-47223-1, $17.95 US paper covers)
is by Robin Robertson, author of Vegan Planet and 1000 Vegan Recipes.
She writes regularly for magazines on all aspects of vegans. Here she
promotes some 25 or so menus with animal-free recipes for all
occasions, from holiday meals and birthday parties to a tapas table or
Mother's Day brunch. The 140 dishes are extremely useful for parties of
any kind; each has an indication of whether it is a "make ahead" or
"Quick & easy". Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
There is also a separate listing of recipes by course, with an
indication of their status as a make ahead or as a quick prep.
Audience and level of use: vegans and vegetarians.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: two-potato shepherd's pie;
fava bean hummus; olive-and-caper stuffed cherry tomatoes; collard and
red bean fritters; baked enchiladas with mole poblano; quinoa-stuffed
Portobello mushrooms with wine-braised shallots.
The downside to this book: the purple ink can be fatiguing.
The upside to this book: you can still be a party animal who doesn't
serve animals at parties.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

11. SUPERFOODS; the healthiest foods on the planet (Firefly, 2010, 256
pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-684-0, m$24.95 Canadian paper covers) is by
registered dietitian Tonia Reinhard, who has authored other books
dealing with vitamins and nutrition. Here, she devotes a page to each
of some 200 superfoods. The definition of such is "nutrient-dense", one
that provides a high level of nutrients in a reasonable number of
calories (that is, more bang for the buck). There have been a number of
such books over the past two years; indeed, it has even reached down to
"Superfoods for Dummies". This one is arranged by food type:
vegetables, mushrooms, legumes, fruits, nuts and oils, herbs and
spices, grains, meats, dairy food, and beverages. She gives data on new
research between each food and health, and how effective that food is.
For each, she has details on nutritional content, seasonal variations,
curative value, combinations that enhance their efficacy and those to
avoid, how to maximize the beneficial effects of each, prep advice, and
culinary tips. But no recipes. There are lots here such as an
explanation of anti-oxidants, omegas, free radicals, enzymes, and
minerals. Certainly, you'd want to begin eating these foods before many
others.
Audience and level of use: for the nutritionally alert
Some interesting or unusual facts:
The downside to this book: just the latest in a stream of similar
books, and it may be superseded at some point.
The upside to this book: there are nutritional tables and a glossary.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

 

 

12. INTENSELY CHOCOLATE; 100 scrumptious recipes for true chocolate
lovers (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 218 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-55101-1,
$27.95 US hard covers) is by Carole Bloom, a pastry chef and author of
ten other cookbooks on desserts (including "Chocolate Lover's Cookbook
for Dummies"). Chocolate is on a roll again--I'm surprised the price
hasn't climbed--and this is the latest book. For some people, you
cannot have too many chocolate books. This is a basic set of 100 preps,
covering cakes and cupcakes, brownies, muffins, tarts, cookies,
custards and puddings, mousses, truffles, candies, and frozen desserts.
There is a glossary of terms, a list of US sources for ingredients and
equipment, and even a table of weight and measure equivalents (all the
preps use avoirdupois). She itemizes the different percentage values of
cacao components, noting that recipes have to be adapted if you use,
say, a 85% chocolate in a prep calling for, say, 62%. Or vice versa.
There are lots of cook's notes and cooking instructions.
Audience and level of use: chocolate lovers, culinary students.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: bittersweet chocolate
caramel swirl brownies; bittersweet chocolate tart with candied orange
peel and almonds; cocoa gingersnaps; milk chocolate chunk-pecan
biscotti; white chocolate crème caramel; hot malted milk chocolate.
The downside to this book: there is heavy competition amongst chocolate
books at this level.
The upside to this book: good photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

13. FALLING OFF THE BONE (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 254 pages, ISBN 978-
0-470-46713-8, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Jean Anderson, author of
more than 20 cookbooks (The Doubleday Cookbook, The Family Circle
Cookbook). She's been a six-time best cookbook award winner (Beard,
IACP, and others), founding member of Les Dames d'Escoffier and other
groups, and has been a powerhouse in the field of cookery in North
America. Impressive credentials -- so why then the log rolling from
Sara Moulton, Paula Wolfert, and James Villas? This is a basic meat
book collection of stews, soups, pies, ribs and bones, and the like,
for beef, veal (shortest chapter), lamb and pork. The emphasis, of
course, is on the cheaper cuts, both to save costs and to make more
flavourful food. The only connection is that there must be meat
"falling off the bone". For each she describes the best way to cook
each cut, along with a nutritional profile and advice on shopping,
storage and freezing tips. For beef and veal, there is brisket, chuck,
flank, oxtail, rump and shanks. For lamb there is breast, neck,
riblets, shanks and shoulders. And for pork, there is fresh ham, pig's
feet, and spareribs. At the back there are web resources for learning
more and buying off-cuts that supermarkets do not have. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Finnish layered pork and
apple loaf; lamb neck slices in dill and lemon sauce; Lancashire hot
pot; Andalusian shepherd's stew; Lithuanian veal and cabbage pie;
Norwegian skipper's stew; stufatino; jade soup with pork and veal
dumpling balls.
The downside to this book: I was hoping for more exciting lamb recipes,
but most of the preps deal with Mediterranean-style lamb stews made
from the shoulder. Lamb necks used in stews seem to be UK in origin.
The upside to this book: a nice book for meat eaters.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

14. 7-DAY MENU PLANNER FOR DUMMIES (Wiley Publishing, 2010, 342 pages,
ISBN 978-0-470-87857-6, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Susan Nicholson,
RD/LD (registered and licensed dietitian). She has been writing a
syndicated newspaper column ("7-Day Menu Planner") since 1995, and her
book is based on that series. It manages to combine a number of
features that are trending in cookbooks these days: quick and easy
under 30 minutes, nutrition with low-fat and low-sugar, small budget,
seasonal, menus, and family meals. The book covers 52 weeks, beginning
with January. So if you buy the book in December, remember to start
with the appropriate week, such as week 48 or 49. Otherwise, you will
lose the seasonality. There's lots of primer type material on cooking
and nutrition, balance, and creating menus. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are metric
tables of equivalents. Each recipe is laid out one to a page, good type
face and leading, with an indication of prep times, cook times, yields,
and nutritional analysis. The menus are categorized, so that every week
you can get something that matches "family", "heat and eat", "budget",
"kids", "express", "meatless" and "easy entertaining". And of course,
you don't have to follow the scheme, nor the seasonality. In effect,
this is a book of some 364 menus, a boon to the harried home cook for
the dinner meal. Breakfasts and lunches are on your own.
Audience and level of use: home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: week six provides a Mexicali
Round steak, rice, grapefruit salad, corn tortillas, flan, steak
tortillas, salsa, chopped lettuce and tomato salad, tropical fruits,
fettuccine, garlic breads, lettuce wedge, kiwifruit, sloppy joes, baked
chips, stuffed celery sticks, black bean soup, brown rice, banana
pudding, green salad, bow-tie pasta, winter squash and walnuts, spinach
salad, peaches, baked scallops, angel hair pasta, snow peas, Bibb
lettuce, sourdough bread, fruit tarts.
The downside to this book: the preps are basic, and can involve some
short cuts and prepared purchases.
The upside to this book: while I may not cook from this book's recipes,
I intend to use it for ideas and assessment, perhaps taking comparable
recipes from elsewhere.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

15. BON APPETIT DESSERTS (Andrews McMeel, 2010; distr. Simon &
Schuster, 689 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407-9352-3, $40 US hard covers) is by
Barbara Fairchild (editor-in-chief of Bon Appetit) and her staff, with
contribution from a wide-ranging collection of contributors (some from
Europe, others from the Caribbean). It's a basic book, with all of the
classics – totaling some 600 recipes, most from the magazine but also a
few that have not been published before. And it is an important book.
Yet it still has logrolling, such as by Molly Wizenberg and David
Lebovitz – logrolling has now become standard. If a book doesn't have
any, then the book may not be worthwhile – at least that's how the
thinking goes in marketing divisions. The range here is complete:
cakes, cheesecakes, pies and pastries, custards and puddings, fruit
desserts, frozen desserts, cookies, and candy. In addition to basic
primer material on equipment, pantry, and techniques, there is a
breakdown by degree of difficulty. Each prep gets rated: one "whisk" is
the easiest, four "whisks" are for the expert baker. So at the back of
the book there is a listing of preps by degree of difficulty, with each
prep being given a page reference and falling within one of the
categories such as cakes or cookies. The recipes are nicely laid out,
one or two to a page, with judicious use of bold face to indicate
important items (ingredients, quantities made, etc.). There's also a
list of online and mail-order sources (all US). Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are metric
tables of equivalents. There's an index, of course, and it is quite
detailed, and presented in a larger font; this is a boon for tired
eyes.
Audience and level of use: home cooks or even small restaurants
attempting their own desserts, cooking schools.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Valentine cake; baklava
cheesecake; chocolate truffle croquembouche; profiteroles with caramel
sauce; frozen white chocolate and hazelnut dacquoise; tiered almond
cake; chocolate, orange, and macadamia buche de noel.
The downside to this book: given that there are few photos – only 50
for the plated product -- (this is the first Bon Appetit cookbook with
full-colour throughout, even though most of that colour is just
different ink for text), there is no need for every single page to be
clay-coated heavy. The book weighs an astounding 6.25 pounds and is
thus maddening to use. The gutters do not spread, so photocopying
recipes for in-kitchen use can be a trial.
The upside to this book: it needed to be done, especially since there
are others in the Bon Appetit series.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1. THE ART AND DESIGN OF CONTEMPORARY WINE LABELS (Santa Monica Press, 2010, 287 pages, ISBN 978-1-59580-046-6, $50 CAD hard covers) is by Tanya Scholes, a Toronto-based graphic designer and packager. Michael Mondavi contributes an enlightening foreword which is more an essay on both wine label design and how Robert Mondavi came to design his iconic arch and tower label in 1966. Scholes has a couple of essays on the history of wine design. Other than that, it is s straight ahead but eclectic collection of some 213 wineries from both the Old and the New World, although there are more from the latter. Each is given a page or two, and some of the larger or more innovative wineries are given a spread to cover more than one label. There is enough text to describe the run-up to the label design (remember: the labels speak for themselves, since each is worth 1,000 words). Wherever she can, Scholes uses the designer or owner's own words to describe the label. She needed here, and elsewhere, to expound more on the artistic influences behind the selection and why she picked "it" and not another. At the bottom of each description, there is a box with the salient details of region, country or origin, type of wine, website, designer name, and designer's website. The icons are here, such as Rothschild (both Mouton and Opus One), but there are also labels from Bouza Bodega in Uruguay and Barkan in Israel. I was not attracted to M by Mondavi, but it helped that he wrote the book's foreword. I am not quite sure why Dr. Loosen is here, since it is "old style" and only serves to reinforce the notion that German wine labels never change. There are so many good wine labels out there: I could pick my own 213 wineries, Tony Aspler could pick his own 213, and you could pick your own 213. And we'd probably have no duplicates. But it is great that SHE did it, for now we have something to work with. If there is one theme running through here, then it is the theme of whimsy. Whimsy sells things, no matter what the product. Making fun of the industry and yourself sells things. For Ontario, for once -– beyond icewines -- there seems to be popular acclaim. We have a disproportionate number of wineries covered, such as Sibling Rivalry, Megalomaniac, Malivoire, Southbrook, Foreign Affair, Five Rows Craft Wine, and Truffle Pig. For BC, there is Ex Nihilo, Dirty Laundry, Therapy (with its Rorschach inkblots), Mission Hill, Artisan, and Blasted Church. That's 13! The old paper label that floated off when the bottle is chilled in ice, the one with the gothic typeface and mismatched colours (a lot like the Loosen label here), is soon to disappear. Even the cheapest Montepulciano d'Abruzzo in Ontario has a spiffy new, compelling and eye-appealing name and label. If I had one major criticism of the book, it is that there is no index. Some of the wineries have several lines of wines, and these need to be cross-referenced. For example, Sibling Rivalry comes from Henry of Pelham (no entry), StraightJacket Winery has a line called Strait Jacket (close, but no cigar: speaking of which, where is the label for Le Cigare Volant??), Layer Cake (no entry) come from Pure Love Wine, and Poetica (no entry) is from Southbrook. It would also be useful in this index to have all the names of the winery owners and the designers in one placed. Page [288] is blank, and the index could have been done there. Just a thought.
Audience and level of use: for the inveterate wine collector, and the graphic designer's library.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Mondavi reports that there are 127,000 approved labels in the US alone.
The downside to this book: I wish Scholes had devoted more space to wine label design competitions, which I think is a fascinating area. Some websites could have been useful, or lists of winners and medals.
The upside to this book: a perfect gift for the wine lover.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

 FROM THE OLIVE GROVE; Mediterranean cooking with olive oil (Arsenal
Pulp Press, 2010, 199 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-367-5, $24.95 CAN soft
covers) is by Helen Koutalianos and Anastasia Koutalianos, a mother-
and-daughter team. Helen was a food columnist and Greek cooking
instructor who now runs www.basiloliveoil.com importing olive oil from
her husband's family in Greece. Anastasia has worked in publishing
(book and magazine). The emphasis, of course, is on the healthy
character of olive oil, and this includes its use in desserts such as
the apple cake prep here. Some preps have been sourced from 13 west
coast chefs. But otherwise, it is arranged by course (appetizers,
soups, stews, salads, mains, desserts). There's primer material on
olive oil (history, grading, cooking principles, health aspects). The
150 recipes are mainly Greek or Eastern Mediterranean, but no matter.
They are all healthy. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
both metric (mainly) and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
metric table of equivalents which would have been useful for volume
measurements.
Audience and level of use: home cooks; olive oil lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lamb (chop) fricassee with
artichokes; keftedes (meatballs); sablefish with preserved lemons; imam
bayildi (stuffed baby eggplants); melitzana ksipoliti (eggplant
quiche); loukoumades (Greek doughnuts); whole chicken baked in a
pumpkin; kebabs.
The downside to this book: There is no metric table of equivalents
which would have been useful for the volume measurements.
The upside to this book: there's a recipe for olive oil energy drink.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Jan 8, 2011: LCBO Vintages Release - some tasting notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JANUARY 8, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Peninsula Ridge Barrel Aged Chardonnay 2009 VQA Niagara: very good
consistency, MVC for Ontario chard, nice price for an oaked toasty
wine. +211490, $14.95, QPR: 90.
2. Cline Viognier 2009 North Coast California: dry version, with plenty
of honeysuckle perfume, 13.5% ABV. +128421, $14.95, QPR: 90.
3. Dominio del Plata Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes 2009 Calchaquiles
Valley: good aromatic sipper, twist top, 13.5% ABV. +1834, $11.95, QPR:
89.
4. Cave Vinicole Kientzheim-Keyserberg Anne Boecklin Pinot Gris Reserve
2007 Alsace: off-dry in mid-palate, intense fruit, Gold Medalist
(Paris). +106831, $18.95, QPR: 90.
5. Cave Vinicole du Vieil Armand Riesling 2007 Alsace: Gold Medalist in
Alsace, extremely rip and unctuous, MVC. +205807, $15.95, QPR: 90.
6. Chateau Les Bertrands Cuvee Tradition 2009 Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux:
Gold Medal (Paris), slightly off-dry citric complexity, good herbs too,
15% muscadelle for aromatics. +190967, $14.95, QPR: 90.
7. Domaine Bellevue Sauvignon Blanc Touraine 2009: the Loire Savvy
wines keep coming, very good SB complexity, grass, stone fruit, citrus,
needs food. +82305, $12.95, QPR: 90.
8. Les Costieres de Pomerols Beauvignac Viognier 2009 VdP d'Oc:
aromatic, food or sip, priced to sell. MVC. +525295, $12.95, QPR: 89.
9. Pfeffingen Gewurztraminer Spatlese 2008 Pfalz: off-dry food wine for
heavy cabbage-based and fatty foods, 11.5% ABV. +211417, $19.95, QPR:
89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Sumptuary Zinfandel 2007 Amador County: very good quality (oak,
black fruit, mocha). Load up!! +203869, $15.95, QPR: 90.
2. La Posta Pizzella Family Vineyard Malbec 2008 Uco Mendoza:
associated with the Catenas. Fine value for berries and fig jam.
+166298, $15, QPR: 90.
3. Majella The Musician Cabernet/Shiraz 2008 Coonawarra: delicious
balance of fruit and wood, 14.5% ABV. +142018, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Fairview Shiraz 2008 WO Coastal Region South Africa: delicious, good
backbone for black fruit and mocha and underbrush. Affordable to load
up. +626358, $14.95, QPR: 91.
5. Chateau La Fleur Terrien 2008 Lussac-Saint-Emilion: North American
style of bright fruit, merlot-based (70%). Enjoy now. +199059, $15,
QPR: 90.
6. Chateau de Gourgazaud Cuvee Mathilde 2008 Minervois: garrigue,
mocha, black currants. +958629, $14.95, QPR: 89.
7. Tolloy Pinot Noir 2008 IGT Alto Adige: one of the best modestly
priced pinots I've had. Open in advance, decant once. +193441, $15.95,
QPR: 90.
8. Produttori di Govone Barbaresco 2006: light but okay nebbiolo wine,
MVC for the region, great price. +119503, $19.95, QPR: 91.
9. Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Crianza 2006 Rioja: Gold Medalist at
Bruxelles. Hard to find a more excellent MVC Rioja value at this price
level. +340844, $15.95, QPR: 91.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Chateau St. Jean Belle Terre Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 Alexander
Valley Sonoma, +987131, $34.95 retail.
2. Dante Rivetti Bric co Riserva Barbaresco 2004, +208264, $46.95.
3. Neirano Barolo 2005, +994327, $25.95.
4. Renzo Masi Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2006,
+209478, $25.95.
5. Piccini Villa al Cortile Riserva Brunello di Montalcino 2004,
+205724, $42.95.
6. Corte Majoli Amarone della Valpolicella 2006, +56267, $32.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH

 

1. Vina Amaral Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Leyda Valley Chile, $14.95 Vintages
March 5, 2011: lovely minerality and citric tones (mainly lime, maybe
rangpur as well) along with modal character of grass and herbs, long
long finish, fairly young vines. 14.5% ABV. Member of Montgras group.
6,900 cases total. I gave it four stars at the Chile trade show.

 

2. Vina Intriga Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo, $19.95 est. (Kirkwood):
strongly redolent of red fruits, mocha, and eucalyptus, all nicely aged
after 20 months in (mainly new) French oak. Fourth vintage from 10 – 50
year-old vines. 14% ABV. Member of Montgras group. 1,700 cases total. I
gave it four stars at the Chile trade show.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com